HOMEBREW Digest #2501 Mon 08 September 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Yeast Culturing ("Ian Wilson")
  odor (Jeff Foley)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  headless all-wheat ("C&S Peterson")
  porter - entire butt (Mark Tumarkin)
  Living in Winnipeg (Ralph Link)
  9" False Bottom (kbjohns)
  home roasting crushed grain (smurman)
  Conversion Temperature ("Randy Davis")
  Comprehensive Brewpub Listings (Eric Wooten)
  Re: Entire Butt (Steve Jackson)
  Quick Beer / Punkin Beer (KennyEddy)
  Yeast from Paulaner Hefe-Weizen ("Paavola, Patrick C.")
  '97 California State Homebrew Competition (Tim McNerney)
  re: why this flavor... (Lou Heavner)
  Special B (Dana Edgell)
  Medicinal taste - potential culprits ("Ernst, Joseph G.")
  Nutrasweet in Brewing. (Fred Waltman)
  Mouse in the demijohn ("Ernst, Joseph G.")
  re: Entire Butt (PVanslyke)
  Entire Butt ("Mark S. Johnston")
  Water & Carboys (kevin martin)
  Homebrew Digest #2500 (September 05, 1997) (keith  christiann)
  Dry Yeast? ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
  CBG: Update (Hords of Fun)" <v-ahord at microsoft.com>
  UK Homebrew Supplies ("Roy R. Rimmele")
  Fermentap ??'s ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
  122F Surprise ("David R. Burley")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 18:17:32 -0700 From: "Ian Wilson" <ianw at sosinet.net> Subject: Yeast Culturing Lately, I have been reading about the pitching rates for brewing ales. I have been growing up yeast cultures from smack-packs / slants / etc. for a year or so, now. My normal procedure: Begin about a week before brewing. Break the Smack-Pack bubble. Prepare about 300 ml of wort by adding three heaping tablespoons in an ehrlenmeyer flask. "Cap" with a foam plug. Boil for 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature. "Pitch" smack-pack to flask. Prepare another batch of wort. Repeat process so that I pitch 3 to four times before pitching to brew. I use "sterile" techniques, i.e. flame flask, stopper, fingers, cat, etc. I have never pitched more than 200-300 ml of white yeast slurry from the bottom of the flask. I would like to know how these guys manage to grow up a quart of slurry! I've Rog Listad's book and just about everything I can get my hands on about yeast propogation, but I just keep coming up with little bits of yeast. Has anyone any ideas as to better yeast propogation techniques? I have only ever had one batch of infected beer and I know exactly where that came from and it wasn't my yeast (one of my sons now knows better than to shove a stick into the fermenter to stir up bubbles). Perhaps there are others who would like this kind of info, too. Ian Wilson ianw at sosinet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 18:57:49 -0700 From: hmbrewer at juno.com (Jeff Foley) Subject: odor I have a question for the collective. I just recently bottled a batch. The problem that it has a strong smell to it. It sort of smells like concentrated malt or something on those lines. What caused this and will it reduce with time? Jeff Foley Sierra Vista, AZ Thunder Mountain Brewery (One can wish can't they). Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 97 02:53:14 From: "Derek Kite" <dkite at netidea.com> Jim Daley Subject: Wet freezer Freezers have the evaporator (cold part) inside the walls. Actually, what you have, 42 deg with a temperature difference across the cooling medium of very little, is a way of producing an environment with close to 100% rh. Mould and mildew will grow. A couple of things to do. Make sure the door seal is 100% sealing. And never open the door. Drill a hole in the floor to drain the water, trying to miss any refrigerant lines within. Eventually, it will get better. Rather impractical though. Try putting a small desktop type fan inside the freezer. The air movement will help somewhat. Make sure you don't make the door seal worse when you put the cord through. You need to drain the water somehow, and I am serious about there being refrigerant lines all over the place inside the walls and floor. If you just store the kegs in there, sealed, and clean the thing out regularly, maybe you can make do with it. Derek Kite dkite at netidea.com lurking refrig. mech. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 97 01:52:37 PDT From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Back To Business... Bad Frog Beer.. A federal court judge has upheld NY states' ban of Bad Frog, based on the label's depiction of a frog flipping the bird. This on the heels of the Joe Camel deal, the courts seem to be acting 'for the children,' by removing the image from places where it can be seen by same. Appeals are in the works. Bud Suits.... Two suits have been filed in California on behalf of craft-brewers against A-B, stating that the '100 percent share of mind' campaign, instituted by A-B, and pushed onto their distributors, has cost craft-brewers access to distribution networks, and increased their costs of doing business. The 1st suit, filed by St. Stan's and others, and the 2nd, filed by El Toro, attack their problem from different angles, but will undoubtedly have an impact on how the fed's and states view the 3 tier system. Jethro has predicted that a restraint of trade action was forthcoming since the '100 percent' campaign went into effect. Beer Across America Racketeer?.... Louis Amoroco, who started the Beer Across America Club, traveled voluntarily from Chicago to Utah to face the charges, basically involving the shipment of beer to Utah, principally a tax issue, and found himself charged with racketeering, tax evasion, unlawful transportation, and sale. Along with another recent report regarding illicit transportation of wines from wineries to the home states of wine afficiandos, whose states don't allow, or don't provide a distribution network, that allows their favored grape juice to be sold in their state, isn't it about time that the state governments put it together, and realized that criminalizing their citizens desire to acquire their libations went out with the 1930's? It didn't work then, and it won't work now. Hop Crop Failing... Get ready for increases in the hop prices for the current crop, due to begin harvest any day now. Powdery mildew, long known on the Euro hop scene, but as yet not seen in the America's, has hit the Washington State hop fields. Caught unaware, the farmers and scientists had no legal chemistry to fight the attack, which has hit the Yakima Valley, home to three-fourths of the domestic hop crop. Estimates are that at least 10 percent of the Yakima crop will be destroyed. Chemical methods of attack were not available until the middle of July, as none of the producers expected the disease, and none of the hop doctors had any plans for dealing with it. But fungicides useful in treatment are now available, and will be used again next year, through provisional licensing by the feds. Costs of application will increase the cost of growing by 10 %, this compounded by the decreased production should mean we all will pay more for what's left. Small growers will go bust. From 350 growers in the Yak valley, in the 1950's, there are now 100, soon to be less. Oregon and Idaho, the other major domestic hop producers, have not yet seen the disease. (Source for the preceeding...Modern Brewery Age, subs at 85$ US, well recommended reading. No affiliation, just a happy subscriber.) Nuclear Beer? Has anybody got any info on the use of irradiation for the pasteurization of beer? Seems like the ideal way to go for my money, except of course for bottle conditioning. Has it been done before? (Not at home, of course.) But does anyone have any info on this? People, Get Ready.... Coming soon to a State near you.......It seems that the next area of profit for the legal profession, in the form of the class action suit, may be the beer industry. The WSJ recently had a major piece on beer marketing, largely directed in attack at A-B....talking about how all the warm and fuzzy images of frogs, horses, the 'everyman's' beverage, along with the bimbo appeal, has made beer a 'non-target' of legislative attacks, such as that currently being seen by the tobacco industry. The next relevant article, published within days, focused on the beer industries' lobby groups, and how they even got the Clydesdales in Clinton's inaugural parade. Such a one-two punch, in the form of virtually back to back articles of attack on the industry, can't be good for our favored libation. Keep you eyes on the details, for while the cider makers are revelling in the newly used line item veto, exercised for their benefit, the beer biz is IMHO, about to face a new round of neo-prohibitionism. Interesting to note, while the cider makers are happy with their tax cut, will it filter down into reduced prices for the consumer? Jethro Gump Rob Moline Brewer At Large brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 97 10:39:02 UT From: "C&S Peterson" <CNS_PETERSON at classic.msn.com> Subject: headless all-wheat HBDers - Thanks to DB for providing a little feedback on my "headless wonders" (a 100% wheat, Oct., and doppel). I did not know that higher alcohol beers tend to suffer from head retention problems -- thanks Dave -- another HBD nugget to tuck in my brain. As far as the all-wheat beer, I can assure you that this beer did not suffer from carbonation problems, and I used a healthy starter (about 1 Ga for a 12 Gallon batch) of American Ale II (a vigorous fermenter), and packaged in both keg and bottle, with the keg filtered to 0.5 microns and forced, and with the bottles unfiltered/primed but fined with Polyclar. Both bottles and keg tasted/behaved the same. FWIW the beer was quite good IMHO --- it won 1st in the American Ale category in the SE regional for the NHC '97, which is tough for an American Wheat to do. But it didn't have the heading properties I expected. I am planning a redo of this recipe this fall, and adding 1/2# of torrified wheat to the grist. Also, the fact that rice hulls are used in the lauder procedure could have impacted the componds extracted from the mash, but I know of no reported problems with rice hulls (they were rinsed with hot water to remove dust and rice bits). eagerly waiting to read Jim B's articles in BT on this issue, Chas Peterson Laytonsville, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 08:42:41 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> Subject: porter - entire butt Michel Brown asks about the origin or meaning or the term Entire Butt. Earlier this year Rob Moline posted an article from Graham Wheeler that really gave a terrific overview of Porter history and style. I don't have the HBD #, but search the HBD archives for Entire Butt or Graham Wheeler and you should be able to find it. I believe I still have this in a file. I will look for it and forward it to you if I can. Briefly, Porter was originally blended from several brewings or threads, a fresher young beer (mild) and an older aged (stale or sour) beer. It was mixed by the publican to the drinkers taste. This was an expensive and complicated process due to the aging and storing of the beer. A brewer named Harwood is believed to have developed a type of beer that closely approximated this blending in one brewing, this was called Entire. Butt refers to the cask used. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 08:13:54 -0500 From: Ralph Link <rlink at minet.gov.mb.ca> Subject: Living in Winnipeg Are there any full grain brewers in Winnipeg? I anyone knows of some one advise me via e-mail. Thanks Ralph Link Ralph Link "Some people dream of success------while others wake up and work at it. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:31:03 -0400 From: kbjohns at peakaccess.net Subject: 9" False Bottom <italic>A much better false bottom and one that I use is a simple 9" circle of flat brewers perf. plate. It sits right on the bottom and held in place by Just last week I crammed 45 lbs. of grain on top of the plate w/o any problems. </italic>Yes a 9" will prevent the probllem of the flase bottom colapsing. But, it will also give a lower extraction rate than a full false bottom unless, the wort is runoff proportianetly slower. (see BT article Summer 95). A better design is an adequately heavy, full size SS plate that is properly suppported Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.wp.com/hosi/pbscat.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 07:00:20 -0700 From: smurman at best.com Subject: home roasting crushed grain Home roasting/toasting of grains is something I've wanted to try for awhile, BUT I don't have a grain mill and no plans to buy one in the near future. What is the feasibility of home roasting already crushed grains? I would think that simple toasting of pale ale malt wouldn't be affected much, but possibly the stewing/carmelizing method wouldn't work as well. Comments? SM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 08:30:51 -0600 From: "Randy Davis" <davisrm at cadvision.com> Subject: Conversion Temperature Charles Burns asks about the Brewing Techniques reference to a 143F conversion temperature for Pilsener Urquell. Conversion will certainly take place at this temperature and in fact, the Brewers Publications Classic Beer Styles series Stout edition, states that Beamish uses an infusion mash of 75 minutes at this temp. for Beamish Stout. In my attempts to brew a stout as close as possible to draught Beamish, I have adopted this practice. The result is, of course, highly fermentable resulting in a high degree of attenuation, and the very light body appropriate for a classic draught stout. The use of a triple decoction mash schedule by PU would explain the maltiness and mouthfeel of the finished beer even if it is converted at a low temperature. I don't know if this is in fact the conversion temp. in use at PU, but I see no reason why it would not produce the desired results, as long as a decoction mash is employed. If not using decoction, it would make sense to increase the conversion temperature into the 150's F. Randy Davis Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 10:01:35 -0500 From: wooten at uthscsa.edu (Eric Wooten) Subject: Comprehensive Brewpub Listings The "I'm going to X, where's a good pub" thread seems to be picking up steam again, so I thought I'd remind the collective that I run a webisite with comprehensive brewpub, fine bar, and microbrewery listings for all 50 states and Canada, as well as a few international listings. The URL is: http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html Reviews are often included, and I recently revised the whole listing, so it should be current and accurate (as always, email if otherwise...) The page has also been banned (by Cyberpatrol) for your protection, so it must be good. Eric. - ----------------------------------- Eric Wooten wooten at uthscsa.edu http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html - ----------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 08:04:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve Jackson <stevejackson at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: Entire Butt Michael J. Brown asks about the origin of "entire butt" as a term for porter: >>>>>>>As a Porter affecianado, I brew one or two a month, and have read = repeatedly that several author's refer to Porter as "Entire Butt" beer. = Since we have been going over linguistics of late, I'm curious of what = gives with this moniker. My latest batch of Brown Porter I've christened = "Firkin Butt Porter" after my favorite beer engine (may Wat Dabney smile = upon us all), so if anyone has a clue, please email me, or post to the = HBD anything you know about "Entire Butt" beer. Hope this post doesn't = come *too* anally ;^)<<<<<<< One of the many definitions for "butt" is a wine or beer cask. As most of us are aware, beer used to be served almost exclusively from casks - -- especially during the time of porter's development during the 18th and 19th centuries. Early versions of porter often consisted of a mixture of the pub's entire lineup of beers -- porter brewing was actually an effort to replicate this mixture in the brewhouse instead of in the pub. So "entire butt" would refer to a beer that held a little something from every open cask in the pub, giving us this now-archaic synonym for porter. -Steve _____________________________________________________________________ Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 11:24:07 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Quick Beer / Punkin Beer KROONEY wants to know if he can make a beer in 12 days: "Is there any way I can brew a batch of homebrew when I return in time to serve at the party or would I be wasting my time?" It's quite do-able. Almost any ale recipe should work fine. Pitch well, my son, to get a fast start and vigorous fermentation. Can you get a sanitized baby-food jar full of yeast slurry from a local brewpub? If brewing with extract, add some yeast nutrient to the wort. Use Irish Moss in the boil to maximize wort clarity. Clarity will be easier to achieve too if you rack to a secondary vessel after the fermentation is visibly overwith (by seven days in any case). If you have control of fermentation temperature, ferment on the high side of the yeast's range to speed fermentation a bit (balancing this against likely production of extra esters and higher alcohols; as long as you're in the specified temperature range you oughta be OK). Avoid recipes with lots of roasted grain as *sometimes* these are harsh when young. Use a fast-clearing yeast like Wyeast ESB. Avoid using sugars (especially molasses or brown sugar) or overhopping, which often require mellowing. ***** The annual Great Pumpkin Thread has risen from the Punkin Patch, Charlie Brown, and with it the question about "when should I add the pumpkin?" Whether you gut a fresh pumpkin, or use canned pumpkin, the stuff is mostly starch and MUST BE MASHED. If you're an extract-only brewer this can be troublesome and is not recommended as a first foray into mashing. Pumpkin mashes are messy. Mash with at least an equal weight of six-row (the extra fraction of husk will aid in the sparge). A "protein rest" is useful. 122F or 135F? (oh no) Perhaps our resident chemistry experts can expand on this (remember -- it's pumpkin, not malted barley...). It's said that "baking pumpkins" taste better than "jack-o-lantern" pumpkins, though I've also heard otherwise. In my pumkin ale, I quartered two baking pumpkins and roasted at 350F for about an hour, till the meat just starts to brown. Scraped off all the meat, removed the seeds, and froze in a ziploc until brewday. As for enhancing pumpkin flavor, keep in mind that the spices you use will go a long way to defining and enhacing pumpkin flavor. If you split an unspiced pumpkin wort, and spiced the two differently, you'd probably detect a noticible difference in the "pumpkin flavor". Good spices to use are cinammon, nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: 05 Sep 1997 11:30:41 -0500 From: "Paavola, Patrick C." <Paavola.Patrick at mayo.edu> Subject: Yeast from Paulaner Hefe-Weizen Fellow Brewers, I am interested in brewing a hefe-wiezen very similar to Paulaner Hefe-We izen Dunkel. It is an excellent brew, very malty! It is also bottle condition ed. So my question is this, How does one go about making a starter using yeast from a commercially bottled beer? Or is the yeast sediment a bottling strain and therefore different than Paulaners fermenting yeast? My experince with yea st has been limited to dry (in the very beginning), but mostly Wyeast with 1/2 gallon starter. Any help would be appreciated. - --insert your catchy brewing quote here-- Rick Paavola (Paavola.Patrick at mayo.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 10:20:48 -0700 From: Tim McNerney <tim at vividata.com> Subject: '97 California State Homebrew Competition '97 California State Homebrew Competition November 15th, 1997 for full details visit: http://members.aol.com/russwig/WigSociety/StateComp.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 11:53:04 -0500 From: lheavner at tcmail.frco.com (Lou Heavner) Subject: re: why this flavor... >>>>>From: "Gerardo Godoy" <panasurf at panama.phoenix.net> I have been brewing only for 3 months and all my beers get this "very light" medicin flavor...it is not THAT bad and if I really cool the bottles it is hardly noticed.....is my beer getting infected all the time?? I clean everything like a hospital before I start and I am using "BOTTLED" water so I won't get any chlorine........Can anyone suggest something, I am beginning to get frustrated and very angry. <<<<< Gerardo, I helped introduce a friend to homebrewing last year and he had exactly the same problem. His first couple of batches were pretty good. Then they started smelling like band-aids. It got worse each batch. I tried to convince him he had contaminated equipment. His supplier suggested he was using too much chlorine bleach. It didn't go away until he replaced his siphon hoses. Doesn't take much to contaminate your beer. Whenever and wherever you use tubing, nozzles, spigots, etc, it is really hard to tell if they are clean inside. I soak everything religiously in B-Brite to clean, before and after use. I avoid scouring anything plastic, even with something soft like those green scouring sponges except for the yellow sponge part. If I am feeling really anal or during the warm season (9 months here in central Texas) I use bleach after the B-brite as insurance. If I was you, I would re-examine your equipment and sanitation procedures. And if you can't insure something is sanitized that will come in contact with cooled wort, then maybe you should consider it a one time disposable item. I hope that helps. If there is anything worse than smelling an infected beer, it has to be telling a newbie brewer and good friend that his latest beer stinks... worse than the last. Another thought.... Do you take a sample of your wort to determine OG? If so, don't put the sample back into your fermenter. Also, you might try tasting it to see if you detect any off flavor or smell anytime you take a sample. Maybe you can pinpoint when/where the infection is occurring. Regards, Lou <lheavner at frmail.frco.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 11:28:10 -0500 From: Dana Edgell <edgell at quantum-net.com> Subject: Special B Dear HBD, I am planning to brew a beer using only pale malt and Special B to get a good idea of the effects of Special B in a beer. Any guidelines on how much is too little to taste and how much is too overpowering? Plus, If Special B is made by only one maltster (DW-C) why is the color contribution from it subject to such a wide range of variance/unknown? Is there really a huge batch to batch variance that needs to be somehow accounted for every time it is used? Brewmasters recipe Guide -> 300-500EBC/110-225L Papazian's Companion -> 500EBC/221SRM Zymurgy Special 95 -> 75.0-250.0L (220.0) BT George Fix Article -> 221L BT's 97 Market Guide -> 264-343EBC/100-130L I'm inclined to believe the new Brewing Techniques Market Guide but why are all of the other references so much higher? Thanks, Dana - --------------------------------------------------------- Dana Edgell edgell at quantum-net.com http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 14:04:01 -0500 From: "Ernst, Joseph G." <ernstjg at Maritz.com> Subject: Medicinal taste - potential culprits Gerardo, I am not a very experienced homebrewer (yet), but I had a similar problem with my first 4 brews - which were English Bitters or IPA's. It was the worst in batch 4, a very heavy IPA that I added honey to. I read in Papazian's "Homebrew Companion" that this might be caused by either steeping the grain in the wort at too high a temperature or by cheap (not name brand) yeast. I had made both of these errors in batch 4, as I left the grains in until boiling commenced, and got caught without a decent yeast and pitched what I had. In my latest batch (Amy's Awesome Lager) I pulled the grains out at 160 F, and used a liquid Wyeast, and this took care of the problem for me. I still have a _hint_ of that medicinal effect, but I believe that is my throat reacting to the high alcohol content of the beer (8.7%) - you see, even though the kit contained 9 pounds of malt extract, I still thought it prudent to add 2.5 pounds of honey! Hope this helps! Joe Ernst Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 12:46:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Fred Waltman <waltman at netcom.com> Subject: Nutrasweet in Brewing. Lou Heavner asks about using Nutrasweet: If you read the ingredients for Nutrasweet you'll see that it contain dextrose, so it is somewhat fermentable. I made the mistake of trying to make a diet root beer with Nutrasweet. I put it in a party pig (luckly!) with just enough sugar to carbonate. Talk about a mess. It was like a fire hose stream of root beer every time you tapped it. Fred Waltman Culver City Home Brewing Supply Co. fred at brewsupply.com *or* waltman at netcom.com http://www.brewsupply.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:11:30 -0500 From: "Ernst, Joseph G." <ernstjg at Maritz.com> Subject: Mouse in the demijohn >Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 12:40:29 -0400 >From: "Alan McKay" <Alan.McKay.amckay at nt.com> >Subject: Dead mouse in Demijohn -- still OK? >Hi folks, >A friend gave me a 55litre demijohn that had a couple of dead >mice in it. I've had the thing soaking in some pretty strong >bleach solution for the last 5 days, and am wondering if I >should use this for beer or not. >A couple of the mice were only skeletons -- one was freshly >dead. Alan, Ummm, I just _have_ to clarify something here...Before you added the bleach solution, you DID take the mice out... didn't you? ;-) If it can take the heat, and if it will fit in the oven, I would definitely put it in there at 350F for an hour, just to kill whatever the bleach missed. My last bit of advice, and the only bit I am qualified to post: Don't tell the folks you share your brew with about the origins of the demijohn! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 20:45:39 -0400 (EDT) From: PVanslyke at aol.com Subject: re: Entire Butt On Thu, 4 Sep 1997, Dr. Michel J. Brown said: >As a Porter affecianado, I brew one or two a month, and have read = repeatedly that several author's refer to Porter as "Entire Butt" beer. = Since we have been going over linguistics of late, I'm curious of what = gives with this moniker. >snip Porter was at one time blended at the bar to the customer's taste from an 'old' ale (an ale aged for up to a year and thus more expensive because of the storage time) and a young ale. At some point a brew was produced that encompased the traits of the previously blended beers. This beer, sold as 'Entire' or 'Entire Butt' was less expensive to produce. Paul F. VanSlyke >> brewing and relaxing in Deposit, NY Farnham Springs Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 21:30:09 -0400 From: "Mark S. Johnston" <msjohnst at talon.net> Subject: Entire Butt Michael Brown wrote: >>As a Porter affecianado, I brew one or two a month, and have read = repeatedly that several author's refer to Porter as "Entire Butt" beer. = Since we have been going over linguistics of late, I'm curious of what = gives with this moniker. << In days of yore, when the style was first introduced, it was as a result of tax rates on heating fuel. Malts kilned over coal fires were paler, but coal was taxed at a high rate. Malts brought into London from the country side were kilned over wood fires, with their hotter flame, so the malts were darker--and cheaper since the wood was free to the farmers who owned the land. As a result the darker, roasted malt beers were less expensive than the pale city ales to the inn keepers. In a process not-unlike watering down the liquor, the inn-keepers would try to both please their patrons desire for the paler beers, and still cut their costs, by taking a draught from several casks. This mixing of the paler ales and darker stouts became known as the "entire butt". Once it became accepted, and even popular, the mixing of malts began happening at the brewery, resulting in the "modern" definition of porter. Yards Brewing Company in the Philadelphia area sells an "Entire". It's a mix of their Imperial Stout and ESB. Nirvana in a glass. - -- "If a man is not a liberal at eighteen, he has no heart. If he is not a conservative by the time he is thirty, he has no mind." - Winston Churchill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:46:55 -0700 From: kevin martin <kmartin at creston.heartland.net> Subject: Water & Carboys I am new to homebrewing and the Homebrew Digest. I just made my first homebrew this week, and dumped it down the drain tonignt. It was a Nut Brown Ale kit. It looked really good, but I had someone helping me brew, because it was getting late and I had to go to work the next morning. I asked them to mix the sanitizing solution and help me sanitize my equipment. I didn't realize until later that they had used the wrong stuff.....used corn sugar instead of sanitizer. WOW, talk about giving all of those nasty little beasties a boost. Oh well, I'm going to try again with a honey wheat tomorrow. The kit that I used told me to sanitize the carboy, then rinse with cold water, and later to add 3 gallons of cold water to the carboy. It said nothing about sanitizing the water. I thought about it for a minute, and boiled the needed water, cooled it with an ice bath, and used it. Right now, I plan to do the same tomorrow with the honey wheat. Is this the right thing to do? I know boiling the water will drive the air out of the water, requiring extra airation of the wort when putting it in the carboy, but wouldn't not boiling the water add lots of germs? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also, the first batch left a nasty mess in the carboy. I imagine that some of you who have been brewing for a long time have had nasty messes in the carboy. Any tips on cleaning nasty messes from carboys? Thanks in advance, Kevin Martin kmartin at creston.heartland.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 20:15:28 -0700 (PDT) From: keith christiann <kchris1 at lausd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Homebrew Digest #2500 (September 05, 1997) Hi all, I just moved to a house with a garage and I am very happy! I am in need of hooking up my natural gas stove and I would like to rig up a flexable gas line. I put a T on my gas line for the line but I am not sure if it is safe to run a gas flexable gas line like you see on torches... My dad is a welder and wants to do it but I am not too sure it will work. There is a shut off valve at the T which makes me feel better but still ah not sure. It would be nice to avoid installing the black pipe and be fixed to one location. With the flexable gas line I can move it around the garage... Or even in the back yard. All I need is about 25 feet! Thanks Keith No longer the Balcani Brewer... I got a garage! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 22:16:43 -0500 From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu> Subject: Dry Yeast? Sorry for the Bandwidth, but I was wondering if anybody out there could direct me to a source of quality dry brewing yeast. Would try the archives, but the web browser's on the mend. To reduce bandwidth waste, please email me at the above address. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 20:52:37 -0700 From: "Alan Hord (Hords of Fun)" <v-ahord at microsoft.com> Subject: CBG: Update Are you the sort of type that searches for brewmania but can't quite find what you're looking for? Not a big web surfer person? Hmmm <toe-tapping>... New on the scene is an update to the old and static web sites of beertown. Introducing a not-so-new idea, but applied to our local social an update to the unquavering appeal for more information about BREWING. The small, but dutiful Cascade Brewers Guild (monks that say "~Urp!") are proud to announce a tiny but significant update to their obscure window to the web world with their clever use of server technology. *** Announcing *** _Hot Links_ and _Find Links_ features within the Cascade Brewers Guild Website at: Http://www.NWMarket.Com./CBG/ With over 150 active website links, our database rivals any other within the known (heheh) brewing community. It may not be the largest most stupendous ever, but it belongs to us - AND we can add to it! The Cascade Brewers Guild will never spam out; we just want to find what we're looking for in one ol' spot. With your help - we can do that :o) We are not prejudice; if your link is active, then this is the place to register it. Categories include, but not limited to: Beer Of the Month clubs, Brew on Premises, Brew Pubs, Brewing Clubs, Brewing Fabrication, Brewing Supplies, Commercial Brewers, Distributors, Listservers, Magazines, Personal Pages, Pubs and Taverns, and more! We're International! We also offer some new features (coming very soon), such as a Recipe Vault, and Beer Quote of the Day. (Ahem...and we still have some other black magic <knuckles cracking> that we've yet to break out) coming online soon. We're just a bunch of quaffing beer junkies, and hopefully you'll like our obscure and honest corner of the world, and use us as a resource for your specific beer travels. It's all free - as life should be. If you have a site, please add us to you active links :o) We're Not-for-profit! Sincerely, Alan President, Cascade Brewers Guild Http://www.NWMarket.Com./CBG/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 97 02:55:03 -0400 From: "Roy R. Rimmele" <flossbos at mindport.net> Subject: UK Homebrew Supplies Thought I ask for help here.....I'm going to the UK in about 6 weeks. Does anybody know the location of homebrew shops throughout England & Scotland. I've tried surfing the new and one of the newsgroups with minimal success. I'm very interested to see how they sell their supplies (and what they sell. I'm always looking for new books, gadgets, and information.....Thanks in advance....:{)...Roy > _\|/_ > { at at } > =============ooO=(_)=Ooo=============== > Roy R. Rimmele > 255 Route 12 Suite 5 > Groton, Connecticut 06340 > Voice:(860) 449-8909 > flossbos at mindport.net > flossboss at aol.com 'So much beer.....so little time! > Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 11:41:46 -0400 From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at reefnet.com> Subject: Fermentap ??'s Fellow BrewMeisters, Just purchased a Fermentap device and was wondering if the collective has any opinions on a few things regarding it usage. I plan on using it with mainly lager brews in a refrigerator. According to the instruction sheet that came with it, it recommends racking from primary to secondary (of course, requiring the purchase of a second Fermentap) as one would normally do without this device. My understanding of the purpose of this is naturally to get the fermenting beer off the trub and autolyzed yeast cells as you would normally do anyway. However, I thought that simply straining the trub and crud out of the primary fermenter by using the Fermentap, would in essence be the same as racking to a secondary vessel. Additionally, using this method would also reduce the exposure to oxygen and airborne contaminants. Am I correct in my thinking or did I leave out an important issue? The concept of this device is a good one. Does anyone use this method or have any suggestions or experience I should otherwise consider? Thanks, Marc - -------------------------------------------------- Capt. Marc D. Battreall batman at reefnet.com \\|// (o o) =========oOO==(_)==OOo=========== Got any good homebrews?? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 12:46:43 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: 122F Surprise Brewsters: Jim Busch's note to me reminded me I still hadn't gotten my copy of May-August BT after re-upping in May, so I bought the last copy at the HB= store and got around to reading it last night. Jim's article on Step mash techniques was very good. Imagine my surprise= when I read: "Often a brewer is better served to avoid *long* rests at 122F unless necessary for undermodified malt, as might be used for lagers or for adjuncts and instead spend more time in the range of the proteases betwee= n 131F and 137F." Couldn't have said it better myself - er I did, didn't I? I read this as Jim is (at least in some cases) recommending short holds at 122F, which = I also recommend. Jim points out that more than just chopping up middle molecular weight proteins into LMW proteins (peptides) and amino acids is happening in the= 122F region. ( As I have also pointed out - but perhaps not so clearly) = Reading his tables and the text it demonstrates that the beta-glucans ( haze forming gums) will be removed at 122F (although not the optimum temperature) and these 1-4 beta glucanases (70% of the glucans are 1,4) will be denatured at 131F - below the 135F hold. Table I and Table II appear to have an apparent discrepancy on the temperature tolerance, but closer reading shows that 1,4 glucancase still works at 122F and is denatured at 131F. He points out that beta glucanases make up about 75% of the matrix which holds the starch ( and gives structure and hardness of the barley kernel)= . I interpret this to mean therefore, in highly modified malts ( where the glucanases have been active longer at the maltster) the gra= in will be soft and mealy. In more poorly modified malts the grains will be= harder. The bite test is an old method for assessing a malt's modificatio= n. Perhaps this whole discussion centers around a failure to properly define= the malts involved. For pale ALE malts this 122F hold is apparently not necessary (although Dr. Hook and others including me would suggest a shor= t hold) and could lead to a lower heading capability because these malts start out as being low in proteins ( by barley strain selection) and low = in enzymes (especially the proteinases and beta Amylase) because it is kilne= d at a higher temperature. It may be that because in Britain "Pale malt" i= s really "Pale ALE malt" and in the US and Germany Pale Malt is less highly= modified and this failure to distinguish these difference by some people may be the source of this controversy. As far as I know, Lager malt is still poorly modified (hardest and lightest in color), Pils is in-between= in modification and pale is (perhaps - depending on where you are) the mo= st highly modified ( but still not as high as most pale ALE malts). Take a look at the color Lovibond reading on the malt specs to get an idea of th= e kilning temperature, and bite the malt grain to get an idea of the degree= of modification. It may be the case that modern brewers ( as Jim points out) are selectin= g more highly modified malts for their grist and avoiding the 122F rest as = a result. Jim Busch points out that this is the current trend among some German brewers and Professors. But that does not change the fact that a malt which has a 50% to 75% modification ( lager, pils and some pale malt= s) needs these low temperature holds to soften the barley grain, reduce the gums to get clearer beer and solubilize the enzymes for the saccharification step. = After all this discussion, my conclusion remains the same: If you want to reduce the haze, increase the efficiency of your extractio= n and avoid stuck sparges, especially with pale (perhaps not so necessary depending on the maltster)/pils (more likely)/lager ( for sure at 50% modification) malts and for sure adjuncts - esp barley, rye and raw wheat= - use the 122F ( and maybe include temperatures around 100F for high levels= of gummy adjuncts) for 20 minutes or so. Longer holds (like a few hour= s) here will definitely have a negative effect on head and the overall quali= ty of the beer except in those malts where the proteinases have been destroy= ed by high temperature kilning. This discussion started ( I think) when I objected to the overly simple (and incorrect) assertion that one should *always* avoid holding at 122F.= = I hope all-grainers will now recognize that holds in this region are necessary for certain kinds of malt and that the hold time is inversely proportional to the degree of modification and also depends on the grist composition. Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com = Voice e-mail OK = Return to table of contents
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