HOMEBREW Digest #2596 Tue 30 December 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Hypochlorite (AJ)
  Wort hopping and CFC's (Some Guy)
  Tasting suggestions (Steve Potter)
  Take it off.  PLEASE (Jack Schmidling)
  Active ingredient in Bleach Solutions (The Kirbys)
  Re: baked beans beer (Sheena McGrath)
  Guiness clone & lactic acid (michael rose)
  too much gypsum (Ritter, Sharon/Dan )
  Maris Otter (Steve Potter)
  re: glass carboy carrier (Dick Dunn)
  "fridge guy" (Christopher Niehaus)
  Recipe suggestions, anyone ("Michael E. Dingas")
  Slurry? (SRJ)
  Water acidification (Utesres)
  Wrangling the Wild Yeast ("Mark Peacock")
  Re clean your pumps (kbjohns)
  passivating stainless ("August R Buerkle")
  Re: mash time/overnight mashes (Jeff Renner)
  Conversions ("David R. Burley")
  Re: glass carboy carrier (Scott Murman)
  Re: Composting, Warm temps for wheat ale, Malt Mil (Jim Bentson)
  Racking Problems (Robin Parnaby)
  Raspberry Mead, Quadruple, Spending Money (Alpinessj)
  Barrel o' Dunkel - Part 1 (Charles Burns)
  Coors Light Recipe? (Mark Weaver)
  Grain Volume (Tim.Watkins)
  California Materials Exchange ("Hunts, Jeff")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 14:33:31 -0400 From: ajdel at mindspring.com (AJ) Subject: Hypochlorite A few thoughts to add to the recent musings on bleach by Dave Burley and Frederick Wills: Bleach is made by reacting chlorine gas with alkali: Cl2 + 2OH- --> Cl- + ClO- + H2O as by bubbling chlorine gas through a solution of lye. Often the source of alkali is the cathode of an electrolytic cell containing brine: 2H2O + 2e --> H2 + 2OH- with the chlorine coming from the anode: 2Cl- --> Cl2 + 2e Mixing gets the hydroxide to the anode where it reacts with the clorine as in the first equation in this post. In any event, there is lots of alkali around when bleach is made and it is desireable that this be so as bleach is most stable at high pH as long as it is kept cool. Lye is often added to concentrates to keep the pH at levels as high as 12 at which high pH it is completely dissociated i.e. exists as OCl- ion because the pK of HOCl, the acid, is approximately 7.5. Note that if alkaline bleach get hot the hypochlorite ion disproportionates (i.e. undergoes auto oxidation/reduction - this is not the same as dissociation which was mentioned in this context in one of the previous posts) to chlorate and chloride: 3ClO- --> ClO3- + 2Cl- At lower pH's hypochlorite ion combines with H+ ions to form hypochlorous acid which is not stable and decomposes releasing molecular oxygen: 2HOCl + 2H2O --> 2H3O+ + 2Cl- + O2(g) Thus bleach, while it is not completely stable at high pH is more stable than at low pH. If the pH drops below 5 the acid can disproportionate back to chlorine gas: Cl- + H3O+ + HOCl --> Cl2 + 2H2O The optimum pH for disinfectant action is reported to be 5 (Priest and Campbell "Brewing Microbiology Second Edition") presumably because this pH is low enough that all the hypochlorite is converted to hypochlorous acid (which is the best bug killer) but not so low that excess hydrogen ion encourages the hypochlorous acid to disproportionate. Under normal circumstances a typical hypochlorite stock solution diluted to 50 - 300 ppm has a pH of 7 - 9 (Priest and Campbell). Many of the species associated with bleach are strong oxidizing agents. In order of oxidation power (electrode potential) they are HOCl 1.611 Volt MnO4- 1.507 (For comparison) ClO3- 1.47 Cl2(g) 1.358 O2(g) 1.229 ClO- 0.841 HOCl at 1.61 Volts is a stronger oxidizing agent than permanganate at 1.51 volts which is usually thought of as a strong oxidizer (and which was used as an antiseptic at one time). Of the species listed HOCl is the best oxidizer and as killing of bacteria is accomplished by stealing their electrons it bleach is probably most effective at 5 < pH < pK because the concentration of HOClis maximized in that range. Nevertheless other oxidizers are present under other conditions so it appears that bleach should be effective, if less so, at higher pH, when hot, etc. To summarize: Low pH ( but > 5) means maximum HOCl concentration HOCl is the best oxidizer and thus the best bug killer Higher pH means lower HOCl because of dissociation to OCl- At high temperature OCl- disproportionates to ClO3- and Cl- Store bleach at high pH and low temperature Use bleach at low pH (but > 5). If used at high pH use hot (?) (ClO3- is a better oxidizer than ClO- but only 1/3 of disproportionated ClO- converts to ClO3-) Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:41:29 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Wort hopping and CFC's Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Dave Houseman aasks about CFC experiences related to hop bitterness predictions... Though this really doesn't address your question, Dave, it does address the issue: add a false bottom to your boil kettle, and avoid the added time required for whirlpooling and settling. I use a Pico (R)[tm]<mnsqt> Brewing Systems false bottom in mine, and go right from the steep into the chiller. The bitterness levels in my brews are pretty much where I predict them (if not a little "light") via this method. See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brewing Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 15:56:20 -0600 From: Steve Potter <spotter at MERITER.COM> Subject: Tasting suggestions Dear Collective, My brother-in-law is a commercial pilot. He recently began flying international routes. In Europe, his airline flies in to England, Ireland, France and Sweden (Unfortuneatly not Belgium or Germany). He is willing to bring me fresh beer from Europe. Which beers should I request before he gets sick of hauling them for me. Puts a whole new twist on " I'll buy if you fly" doesn't it! Steve Potter - Madison, Wi Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:33:18 -0800 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Take it off. PLEASE Jack Schmidling says about his low alcohol beer process on his web page: "There is an Applicaton Note on my web page on a process I worked out along with lab analysis of the beer after processing. The bottom line is you can not get rid of all the alcohol without additional steps but you can get rid of enough that it will not turn on an alcoholic person. "I'd like to see this "proof". This sounds really dangerous to me and I believe you are wide open for a lawsuit. "Getting a little hyper here aren't we? "Please send me the analysis methods and results privately, especially the part where you establish the level of alcohol which will not affect a recovering alcoholic.... Are you planning on sueing me or representing me? " Until then, I will maintain my position that this is likely to cause real pain to someone who is a recovering alcoholic out there who believes this. Maintain what you wish but as a RECOVERED alcoholic, I can tell you that drinking this stuff did not turn me on and it and other non-alcoholic beers made my "recovery" possible by not depriving me of the taste sensation that I enjoyed while I cleaned my system of alcohol. The myth about "once an alcoholic, always an alcoholoic" is a figment of the nice folks who make a living trying to "cure" them. Any alcoholic can be come a non-alcoholic by simply limiting their intake to one glass a day. It's called a commitment and the will to control it. It's not a disease it's a lazy brain. "Take this note off your page. PLEASE!!! This one really bugs me because by saying that, you make it obvious that you did not read it. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: Beer Stuff.........http://ays.net/jsp Astronomy.......http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 14:44:03 -0800 From: The Kirbys <bkirby at tdn.com> Subject: Active ingredient in Bleach Solutions Fellow Homebrewers, Dave Burley in HBD 2594 asks what the active species in alkaline bleaching solutions is. He says it is doubtful it is HOCl because of the strong basic character of bleach. It actually is the OCl ionic species that is the reactive part but it usually requires a hydrogen source that is readily available from water even though it is an alkaline solution. In dilute solutions the concentration of water is 55 molar which is about as concentrated solution as one could want (or get). The water furnishes a proton by exchanging that proton with an OCl ion to generate an HOCl molecule and an OH ion. Then the HOCl molcule reacts with the oxidizable substance. Since in alkaline bleach the OCl ion is present in higher concentration than in acidic solutions, it provides a source of OCl to allow the sterilizing action to take place. The HOCl molecule only needs to exist long enough to be able to react. It can also dissociate back to OCl and water without reacting. As with most other reactions increasing the temperature allows the reaction kinetics to increase giving you either a quicker or a more complete reaction. Brien Kirby Chemist and Brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 16:16:01 -0800 From: Sheena McGrath <sheena at gte.net> Subject: Re: baked beans beer Dear Digest Mavens: Yes, I've come whining to you with another problem. I recently made a Canadian Ale and a Double Dragon clone which both came out smelling like baked beans. They were awful! The common factor is that both are light coloured beers and both had adjuncts (corn and wheat, respectively). Is this the dreaded DMS or have I got an infection. I used different fermenters and different yeasts for both of them. I cooled them by putting them in the bathtub for an hour and a half, with the lids on. Thanks for any help, Sheena Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 17:44:24 -0800 From: michael rose <mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net> Subject: Guiness clone & lactic acid Jon Ingram writes; >Does anyone have a stout recipe that they would be willing to share with me >that would produce a guiness like stout? A liquid extract recipe would be >prefered. Thanks, Jon I saw a recipe on the web(cats meow maybe?) that gave a basic stout recipe and then called for the addition of 40cc of lactic acid before bottling. Would this provide that Guiness *tanginess* or is this just throwing the ph of the beer way off. mike rose mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net riverside, ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:39:55 -0700 From: ritter at bitterroot.net (Ritter, Sharon/Dan ) Subject: too much gypsum I inadvertantly added 4 tsp. gypsum to a brown porter I brewed today For some reason I was thinking about my Special Bitter recipe and Burton-style water - duh. In any case, I'd like to use this mistake as a learning experience. What should I expect in terms of taste from the high sulfate levels I've added? Is there any hope this beer might be drinkable? Here are the specifics: OG - 1.055 IBU's - 30 7 1/2 lbs 2-row 14 oz. crystal 10 oz. Biscuit 12 oz. chocolate Wyeast 1968 My tap water is *very* soft - 26 ppm calcium and 0 mg/L sulfate. Dan Ritter <ritter at bitterroot.net> Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery - Hamilton, Montana Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:07:14 -0600 From: Steve Potter <spotter at MERITER.COM> Subject: Maris Otter Dear Collective, There has been a lot of talk lately about Maris Otter being a problem to brew with. In the last three months I have used 100 lbs of it in a variety of beers. I have used the product from Crisp Malting and from Hugh Baird. The only time I had any trouble was in a mash that contained a large amount of flaked barley. Perhaps the reason I have not had problems is that I use an adjustable mill, look at my crush with every batch, and make adjustments as needed. What prompts me to post this message is that while catching up on my HBD reading and drinking a Maris Otter based IPA, I came across the request for a description of the taste of the malt. I could say that it is smooth and malty. I could also say that it almost defines the flavor of good English Ale for me. But rather than say that I will just say ahhhhhhhh. Steve Potter - Madison, WI I can barely keep track of myself, I don't see how I can be expected to keep track of where Jeff is at. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Dec 97 00:56:35 MST (Sun) From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: re: glass carboy carrier Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> wrote, about moving glass carboys: > I don't know if my solution is terribly creative but it certainly works. I > use plastic milk crates as cradles, you know - the kind you see in stacks > at the back of the grocery store. But please, don't "borrow" these. You can > pick them up for a couple of bucks at many discount dept stores. They make > moving carboys safely a breeze as they give you two handles to making > lifting easier, and they also protect the glass from bumps and bangs in > moving or setting down. This much is good--don't steal them, and note especially that with the declining use of glass and the declining availability of home delivery, sturdy milk-carriers are increasingly available. But please note also that the slob-store (excuse me, "discount center") carriers may be second-rate, so watch carefully after you've had them for a while, and if you see any cracks, discard them. They really may not be even designed to carry 50 lb on a regular basis. > I have always distrusted the carboy handles that go around the neck of the > carboy... I have to agree with Mark on principle...those handles have *always* bothered me. BUT, I've been using them since they came out, at least ten years and I don't know how much more! (Hey, nobody made me sign that I'd behave rationally!) I've seen no failures myself. I've heard of a couple folks who saw questionable possible-cracks, but I've never heard of an outright failure even though I have heard of many carboys destroyed by other means. >...It seems to me that lifting a full and heavy carboy puts a lot of > stress on the glass. It may be up to it until it gets shocked or stressed > by a slight tap against something in transport or setting it down on a > concrete floor - with possibly scary results... All this is true, but I have to point out that the carboys most of us use first saw service as water-bottles, and the folks who deliver[ed] water bottles used a gadget that snagged the bottles just under the neck...just as the homebrew-shop carboy-carriers do! (It's a plastic handle with a pickle-fork sort of grabber for the neck.) Yes, you have to take care when you set the carboy down, but how does the carrier affect that? If the carrier is a strap-arrangement, you can just as easily arrange to have some amount of padding where you set down the carboy; that seems like a good plan anyway. - --- Dick Dunn rcd, domain talisman.com Boulder County, Colorado USA ...Are you making this up as you go along? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 01:14:23 -0800 From: Christopher Niehaus <critters at cosmoslink.net> Subject: "fridge guy" If the "fridge guy" sees this, could you e-mail me? I have some chest freezer questions. Or if anyone knows his address please mail me. Thanks Chris critters at cosmoslink.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 14:50:51 -0500 From: "Michael E. Dingas" <dingasm at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Recipe suggestions, anyone My local brewshop had a sale on 'expired' cans of extract. I bought two = 3.3 lb cans of Brewferm Diablo Belgium and have no idea what to try. I = thought of a Trappist Ale but am not yet out of the newbie stage. Can = anyone suggest a not-to-difficult recipe which limits my skills to = adding hops/grains? Mike (Warner Robins, GA) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 11:23:32 -0500 From: SRJ <komusubi at together.net> Subject: Slurry? Hello All, I brewed a stout last Sunday using liquid yeast 1028 and want to re-pitch this into a new batch but cant brew today . Should I rack to a secondary and then store the slurry until next Sunday or can I leave it in the primary until then. If I should store the slurry whats the best way to do that. Private E-mail is ok Thanks in advance and Happy Holidaze SRJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 13:02:56 EST From: Utesres <Utesres at aol.com> Subject: Water acidification Could someone please demonstrate the equations for reducing alkalinity of water using 10% food grade phosphoric acid? I've been using 88% lactic acid to date with good results but would like to try phosphoric. The water alkalinity is 350 ppm (as CaCO3), 483 ppm hardness (as CACO3), pH = 7.6; Let's assume we want the alkalinity to be reduced to 50 or 100 ppm in 4 Gallons water for mashing. It would be interesting to do the same exercise for lactic acid to see if it agrees with the treatment I arrived at empirically. Also, what would be the equations for reducing the pH for sparging? The equations for strong acids like HCl are relatively easy; just don't know where to start for these weak acids. Thanks Mike Utes Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 11:31:02 PST From: "Mark Peacock" <peacock_m at hotmail.com> Subject: Wrangling the Wild Yeast Although we typically think of wild yeast in beer as a bad thing, some recent experimentation with sourdough bread has me considering some experiments with wild yeast beer. Over the holiday break, I used the French "chef levain" technique to capture and grow wild yeast. The technique (as pulled from my wife's "Baking with Julia" book) starts with a simple flour and water dough, which is left out in the open for 2-3 days in hopes of capturing wild yeast. As I was growing my "chef" into a larger "sponge" through a series of "feedings", I was struck by the similarity to "stepping up" a beer yeast starter before pitching. This started me thinking about using my newly captured yeast in a brewing experiment. Given the amount of brewing done in my house, I may just be taking a _very_ circuitous route to Wyeast #1968 starter, but it seems worth an experiment or two. Does anyone have thoughts on how move from my dough starter to a wort starter - -- other than dropping a few hunks of dough into a 1.040 OG wort? An additional thought is that the "chef levain" process of capturing and growing yeast in dough has selected/preferentially grown bread yeast, and potential brewing yeasts have been lost. Has anyone tried leaving a starter wort out in the open for self-innoculation? If so, did you capture something other than mold? Regards, Mark Peacock Hinsdale, Illinois ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 08:57:18 -0500 From: kbjohns at peakaccess.net Subject: Re clean your pumps <italic>Jeff Renner wrote: I have a magnetic coupled pump that I bought from picoBrewing Systems. I don't know the brand but I imagine it's typical. It needs to be primed by lowering it beneath the level of the supply liquid. Recently, as I realize in retrospect, it had become a little harder to get a flow going, or to keep it going. This happened gradually enough I've always flushed my pump with clear water at the end of each brew, then recirculated 50ppm iodophor for 10 or 20 minutes, and thought that this would keep it clean. Boy, was I wrong. I will add a CIP (clean in place) recirculation of PBW The moral is to keep your pumps clean. </italic>This is problem that appears more with bronze pumps than with plastic. If you use a plastic mag drive pump you will not get any buildup. A flush with warm water, after brewing should be enough to clean the plastic pump. In addition, every few months I do recirculate B-Brite through the system. Brewers should also be aware that neither bronze or plastic pumps have sanitary connections and threads are a great place for crud to accumulate and grow bacteria. You should take care to insure connections are free from build up. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.wp.com/hosi/pbscat.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 10:14:12 -0500 (EST) From: "August R Buerkle" <buerkle at seas.upenn.edu> Subject: passivating stainless I had new stainless bottoms put into a pair of pots. I suspect the new steel needs to be passivated, as it is shiny and exhibits small rust spots. Are these bottoms candidates for passivation? Also, where can I get information on how to passivate? Thanks Gus Buerkle buerkl at cooper.eu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 10:01:49 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: mash time/overnight mashes Steve Alexander <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> writes: >Time, temperature and the amount of water used in the mash all have an >effect >on phenolic extraction from grist. The two major disadvantages of >overnight >mashing IMO are probable excessive extraction of phenolics, and >the very high >likelihood of getting a good thermophilic lactic acid >bacterial 'sour mash' >flavor in the resulting beer. I frequently mashed over night for years in my home oven set at 150F with no problems, including the two you surmise could be problematic. These were fairly stiff mashes. The temperature was typically a rock solid 153F for over eight hours. There was never any sign whatsoever of lactic acid bacteria or anything else growing. I don't think anything grows that high, does it? Ordinary attention to water chemistry (gypsum in city-softened water) kept the pH in the proper range, which evidently kept phenolics, etc. from being extracted. At this distance (seven years plus - the oven in the new house wouldn't hold a 33 qt kettle), I can't say categorically (as I can wrt lacto) that I didn't have phenolic extraction. That's not as obvious as lactic sourness and stink, but I don't think I did. No theory here, just observation of many tens of mashes. Most were done with British M&F pale malt bases, a few were German Pilsner malt. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:30:52 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Conversions Brewsters: Jim Schnaidt says: >Does anyone out there have a formula for converting the numbers from a Brix >hydrometer to specific gravity points? The nice thing about Brix is that it directly reads the percent of dissolved sugar at the calibration temperature of the saccharometer in a predominantly sugar environment like juice. Of course in wort, it reflects the OG which includes more than dissolved sugars which contribute significantly to the SG = Balling and Brix are the same, BTW. So if you have a table of SG vs % by weight concentration of sucrose or a Balling Table then you have a Brix table. BTW There is a heavier than water and lighter than water Baume table vs density. I won't reproduce the entire table, but from Progressive Winemaking by Duncan and Acton, a plot and interpolation should do the job for you: Sg Brix Baume' 1.000 0.0 0.0 1.010 3.0 1.4 1.020 5.5 2.8 1.030 8.0 4.2 1.040 10.4 5.6 1.050 12.8 6.9 1.060 15.2 8.2 1.070 17.6 9.4 If you need more accuracy than this then go to the CRC = handbook and look up the SG versus concentration of sucrose. On a related subject, from the CRC Handbook, the formula for converting old recipes using the various heavier than water ( the heavy) Baume' scales with different temperatures of standardization is: SG is m/(m-d) where m is 145 in the US, and 144 ( old scale used in Holland) = and 146.78 ( New scale or Gerlach scale) and d is the Baume reading. - ------------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com = Voice e-mail OK = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 09:27:27 -0800 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: glass carboy carrier Mark Tumarkin mentioned using milk crates to carry full carboys. I came up with something different for the same purpose. I needed to insert and remove full glass carboys from my chest freezer without turning my back into a slinky. I got some ultra cheap 1/2 inch wood, and made a double thickness cross (or X or T), i.e. a 1" thick, nailed-together, 1-1/2 foot wide cross. I drilled holes near the end of each cross, and inserted some 1/2 inch truck rope, and looped it across to the opposite side. Tieing knots in the ends is enough to secure the rope. Repeat for the other arm of the cross. The whole thing sits nicely on the knotted rope ends. This gives a sturdy carrying harness that I can set my carboy on and raise and lower using the truck rope handles. My back is appreciative. I've thought of adding some wheels for rolling, but I have hardwood floors, and don't want to mess them up. I guess the total cost was around $3-$5 from the local mega-hardware store. You can also sew or buy a harness made from wide nylon strapping material. SM about a 1/2 days drive from the North Coast Brewing Co., makers of Old Rasputin Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:46:47 -0500 From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at htp.net> Subject: Re: Composting, Warm temps for wheat ale, Malt Mil Hi All: 1) There have been a few comments on composting that I showed to my wife Julie, who runs a large on-farm composting program here on Long Island. To summarize her comments and references: Dan Johnson asked about the safety to plants from ALL brewery waste. A number of people didn't seem to want to use hops. "The Rodale Book of Composting" has a section on Hops. It states ".. Spent hops are an excellent garden fertilizer, containing(when dry) 2.5 to 3.5 % Nitrgogen and 1% Phosphoric Acid. They have a strong odor when wet and fresh but this dissapates rapidly." The text goes on to say they compost quickly. As a point of data, I have put my grains, hops and yeast residue into the compost pile for years and have had no problems with adverse reactions by plants. I should point out that there has been some discussion about dogs being attracted to spent hops and reports of canine poisoning so that some caution may be advised for dog owners. John Varady stated that his "composting" of the grains stinks and he has fozen grains at the end of the winter. This usually indicates that the pile is not NOT composting properly. The most probable cause for odor is due to high moisture content and infrequent turning, thus allowing the pile to go anaerobic. Even in winter the pile should be about 120 deg F in the center when the compost is fresh. Guy Gregory suggested using grass clippings with the grains.In many regions, this again can lead to an anaerobic mess since grass is also high in moisture. Any pile of grass left sitting by itself quickly goes to a smelly, slimey mess for this reason. The answer is either to turn very frequently (once a day) or to combine with other materials. Composting is a LOT like brewing. There is a stepped sequence of complex bio-chemical reactions that progress through a narrow range of temperatures and pH which trigger or de-trigger the processses as the conditions change. As in mashing the 'ideal' temperatures for these processes are in the 120 to 160 deg range. Based on my wifes farm compsting experience she suggested that the easiest way for a homeowner to compost their brewery waste without recourse to daily turning would be by mixing leaves into the pile in roughly 3 parts leaves to 1 part grain by volume. The leaves don't add excessive moisture, give sufficient bulking to allow air to get to the pile and do not break down or compact as fast as grass. She also suggests keeping the pile size at least a cubic yard (3' x 3' x 3')or more since smaller piles generally can lead to low temperatures and/or excessive drying. If you can't get leaves you can substitute shredded paper bags or newsprint. Be careful of newsprint as the inks in some papers may contain undesirable chemicals. Turn the pile 2 to 3 times the first week and then once a week for about the next 2 - 3 months. If you can, watch the temperatures of the center, try to keep at 120 to 160 deg and turn if the pile cools too much.. 2) Jorge recently commented about not brewing in the summer due to 30degC (86 deg F) temperatures and not being able to use any of the 'standard' cooling methods. Dave Burly responded by suggesting using a wheat beer or California Common yeast strain and cooling as best he could. I have had a lot of experience comparing wheat beers made from the same batch but fermented at different temperatures. This came about when I was working at a brew-pub that allowed me to take out five gals of each batch as we filled the fermenter. I would take this home and ferment it myself. I can say that all the t beers that used Wyeast 3068 (Weihenstephan) very definitely degrade badly when fermented at room temperatures above 80 deg. The beer became very acidic tasting, lost that beautiful orange color and became more gray-like and had more phenolic flavor compared to the temperature controlled (67 deg F) brew-pub product from the same batch. When I repeated the process at cooler home fermentation temperatures ( 70 deg F) , the differences between the home fermented and brew-pub fermented product were much less apparent. I would suggest that you make every effort to keep the fermentation temp. in the suggested range, at least for this popular yeast strain. 3) To add my 2 cents to the resurging mill thread, for years I have used a well adjusted Corona mill to crush my grains. I recently borrowed a VERY old, heavily used, non-adjustable Malt Mill. Even with a carefully adjusted gap spacing on the Corona, the quality of the crush from the Malt Mill is very much better. My mash efficiency has increased from around 82% with the Corona to around 87% since I changed to the Malt Mill. By visual inspection, the crushed grains from the Malt Mill look much more like the results from the brew-pubs professional mill. My Corona definitely shatters a larger fraction of the husks, or passes them with no crushing.My guess is that the Corona'squality of crush will probably vary more from one mill to another whereas the Malt Mill and Valley mills are probably more consistent. Jim Bentson Centerport NY ( 45 miles east of the mainland) - -- Registered ICC User check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 10:16:15 -0800 From: robin_p at juno.com (Robin Parnaby) Subject: Racking Problems Hi there Homebrewers I'm new to this list. Drew Buscareno <drewbuscareno at skyenet.net> wrote: "Is there a fool proof way to rack beer from one carboy to the next and what would the equipment cost? Is there some sort of siphon starter pump that has been developed for this very purpose?" I use a hand operated plastic oil pump and it seems to work well to start the siphon. It is also easy to clean. You can get one from an auto store for about $8. Robin Parnaby robin_p at juno.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 14:08:26 EST From: Alpinessj <Alpinessj at aol.com> Subject: Raspberry Mead, Quadruple, Spending Money Raspberry Mead - Bob Fesmire There is a digest devoted to mead, I'm not sure of the address, but its been posted many times before. Mead is very simple to make (a lot more so than beer). You just have to be patient and wait a while to drink it. I try to make mead like champagne, sparkling and on the lighter side. I usually make mead for X-Mass and New Years celebrations. My normal mead recipe goes something like this: (Recipe for 5 gallons) 12 lbs light honey 1 tbs Acid Blend 1 tsp yeast nutrient champagne yeast (I've had good results with both liquid and dry) Fruit extract if desired Disolve honey and acid blend in 5 gallons hot water. Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Skim off the "sludge" that collects on the top of the boil. Cool to 70 degress, pitch yeast and nutrient, then airate (oxygenate is better). Ferment at 65 - 70 degress for 2 weeks. Transfer to secondary for 1 month (or until gravity has fallen below .995 and visible fermentaion has stopped). Add fruit extract at bottling to taste. If you want sparkling mead add 1/2 to 2/3 cup corn sugar. Now comes the hard part. Wait at least 1 year before drinking. The mead will actually improve over several years. I realize this is a very general recipe with lots of margin for error (especially on when to bottle), so if anyone has specific questions please e-mail privately. An excellent source of ingredients (honey, yeast, acid blend, and extract) is St Patrick's of Texas. They are on the web. (Normal disclaimer, just a happy customer). The honey they sell is especially good for light meads and comes in 12 land 6 lb buckets. Quadruple I think the beer you are referring to is La Trappe Quadruple. As far as I know, it is the only Quad available in the US market. La Trappe is the only "Trappist" brewery located outside of Belgium. They also make a single, double, and triple. To make all you HBD'ers outside of Colorado envious, Falling Rock in downtown Denver currently has La Trappe Quadruple on tap :) Spending Money With all the things you listed, you will need a lot more than $250 for your set-up. I would recommend starting with the Gott cooler mash tun, and trying to make your own false bottom if you have access to some stainless steel screen. Next, "obtain" (by whatever means you are comfortable with, nothing illegal, yada yada) one or two 1/2 barrel stainless steel kegs and convert the first one into a brewpot and the second into a sparge vessle. You can find lots of help on the web for completing these tasks (or just e-mail me privately). My immersion chiller works just fine for 5 gallon batches. If your tap water is not cold enough you may want to consider a "pre-chiller". I basically have a second immersion chiller I put in ice-water that my water runs through before it gets to the immersion chiller. You could also make your own counter-flow chiller but I am still not convinced its usefulness outways its risks. Malty New Year ! (sorry Rob) Scott Jackson The Jackson Backyard Brewery, Denver CO "Sipping La Trappe Quad with a smile :)" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 97 12:37 PST From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns) Subject: Barrel o' Dunkel - Part 1 Apologies for the bandwidth, but I just had to tell this story... How many brewmeisters does it take to make one barrel of beer? Well yesterday it took 4 of us. Seems that Dave (yep, Dave Sapsis of BJCP fame) has this great mashtun he made out of an old oak wine barrel cut in half. Fitted with a slotted copper manifold, it will hold probably upwards of 100 lbs of grain, depending on water/grist ratio. He loves to use it but seldom can, due to the great volume of wort it produces. Last week Dave invited me and Brian and Brian, known as the yeasty boys (but that's another story) to come over Sunday and brew a barrel or more of Dunkel. I wouldn't have missed this for anything. I think Dave is becoming known as one of the west coast's most dangerous brewers. He's got a hose hooked up to a hot water heater in the garage, handy but can get a bit dangerous when you drop the nozzle on the patio which we managed to do several times during the brew session. At one point Brian ended up with a suspicious looking wet spot that extended from his crotch down to the knees of his pants. The wine barrel/mash tun was set up on top of a plank of wood precariously balanced on some milk crates about 3 feet off the ground. The whole thing sat at about a 10 degree angle and of course the bottom of the wine barrel hung over both sides of the plank. OSHA would have a field day if they saw something like this in a commercial brewery. Well, we got started about 10:30 in the morning after pow-wowing and deciding to do a double decoction. About 15 gallons of water (direct from water heater hose) into the tun (Dave calls it a mash tuB now) along with about 70 lbs of grain (grist bill below). Mashed in at around 104F. He's got a spoon that resembles a canoe oar and I'm quite sure could be used effectively to row a boat. It was a thick mash, a bit hot for an acid rest and a bit cool for a protein rest but we got the enzymes into a liquid form and that's what counted. It was a thick mash that smelled wonderful with the mix of malt and old oak. Everyone did remark how fine the crush was (not GOOD, but Fine - ie, we were wondering if it would lauter very well, hmmm). After 15 or 20 minutes we put about 2 gallons of fresh brewing water into a 15 gallon keg/kettle and scooped about 10 gallons of very thick mash in on top of it. Started stirring like mad, fairly low heat. Seems like it took forever to bring that huge (at least on homebrewer's scale) to saccarification temp. I wasnt' watching the time, but my guess is 20-30 minutes. We all 4 took turns stirring and we did stir constantly to avoid scorching the starch. Got it up to about 149F and then rested it for 15-20 minutes. Nobody was assigned as a timekeeper, we were all toking away on cigars, several conversations going on at the same time so the timing was approximate on almost everything we did yesterday. Anyway, the mash tasted sweet so we figured it was time to boil it. Stirring only occasionally now since Dave assured us that since it was all converted we wouldn't have to worry about scorching the starch. About this time we all started getting pretty hungry. The decoction boiled as we debated cooking lunch, getting sandwiches, pizza delivered or take out mexican. The debate wore on... Dave insisted on a ritual boil over on every kettle including the decoction so after we made a nice mess around the decoct kettle, we returned it all to the main mash. This was WORK! The top of the mash tun was about 5 feet off the ground and with that much grain it was a pain to stir. We had 2 or three large spoons (and an oar) and managed to get it pretty well stired up. The temp hit between 149F and 153F depending on where you stuck the thermometer probe. I thought this was a bit low, but the Brian's agreed that the Munich malt already had plenty of dextrins and everything would be ok. Now it was time for more serious discussions about food and time to evaluate a few beers. After about 30-40 minutes of saccarification, we took another 10-12 gallons of thinner mash into the decoction kettle. This time Dave assures us that no stirring is needed at all, the mash I fully saccarified. So we turned the fire up high and let 'er rip. After boiling (over at least once) for about 10 minutes, back it went into the mash tun. It was intended as a mashout but I don't think we made it beyond about 158F. My notes start getting a bit blurred about this time. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 15:46:48 -0500 From: Mark Weaver <HeadBrewer at eci.com> Subject: Coors Light Recipe? My Fellow Brewers, I have a friend who (I am begging forgiveness even before I mention the name of the beer) likes Coors Light. He has asked me on repeated occasions to try and replicate this beer, and finally I agreed to do it (4 months ago). Does anyone know a recipe (all grain) for this beer or something similar? I have made light beers before, all grain single decoctions that were actually pretty good (albeit highly hopped). I know the Grist Bill calls for corn and rice, but don't know the percentage they represent, nor the hopping profile, O.G. or if it is 6 Row or 2 Row? Any specialty malts? Thanks for all your help. Er... You can either e-mail me direct or post here on the forum. I hope this request has not lowered your opinion of this already lowly brewer... ;-) Prost! Mark - -- Mark Weaver - Brewer on the Loose HeadBrewer at eci.com 75'02 / 72tii "No, I don't brew heads....." http://markweaver.com2tom.com/home.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 97 16:31:26 EST From: Tim.Watkins at analog.com Subject: Grain Volume Hey all, I hope everyone had a nice holiday, and look forward to another great year on the HBD! Anyhow, on to brewing. Santa managed to bring me a nice new MaltMill this year. What a guy! I now get to buy my base malt in 55lb sacks. My plan is to store the grain in a HDPE bucket, but I need to know how large of a bucket I'll need. Does anyone know how much volume I'll need to store that much grain? I was thinking of perhaps a 10 gallon bucket, or maybe a 15 gallon. Does anyone know for sure? By the way, I live in an apartment, so I'm basically looking for the smallest container that will fit the whole bag. Thanks, Tim Lowell, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 14:25:20 -0800 From: "Hunts, Jeff" <jhunts at CIWMB.ca.gov> Subject: California Materials Exchange Hello to the Collective and especially to: Jim Nasiatka <Jwylde at sirius.com> who wrote in HBD#2595 asking about sources of surplus industrial equipment and a previous posting pointing small brewers to these potential gold mines. I believe Jim was referring to my posting regarding a program called the *California Materials Exchange* or CALMAX which I manage here from bureaucracy central in Sacramento (90 miles ENE of Jim). I encourage anyone looking for inexpensive or free equipment to check it out -- if not for the materials listed then at least to find a link to a materials exchange closer to you. Hoppy hunting! http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/mrt/calmax/calmax.htm ============================================= Jeffery L. Hunts Business Resource Efficiency & Waste Reduction (BREWR) Program California Integrated Waste Management Board 916/255-2492 jhunts at ciwmb.ca.gov (aka: Donner Party Homebrewing -- "goes great with finger food!") Return to table of contents
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