HOMEBREW Digest #2702 Fri 01 May 1998

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		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
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  Back to Brewing (George Forsyth)
  phospine (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
  Re: Magnetic Beer (John Bowerman)
  Maris Otter Group Response to recent debate (breWorld)
  Re: Invert Sugar Question (Tony Barnsley)
  Re: Clinitest, Invert Sugar, NMR/MRI (dfikar)
  Clean Burners (Harold L Bush)
  Stout Definition ("David R. Burley")
  Portland Brewpubs ("George, Marshall E.")
  Decoction / hot ferment / long lager lag / olive stout (George_De_Piro)
  pH, Oregon Fruit, sasquatch (Paul Niebergall)
  What is a stout, was Re: How Stout is Lewis? (Spencer W Thomas)
  breathalyzers- (Kevin TenBrink)
  Care and feeding of a Gott mash/lauter tun (Matthew Arnold)
  Rice Syrup Info Provided (Barry Allen)
  BT Subscriptions (EFOUCH)
  Hop Trellis (ASCII warning) (John Varady)
  bud/orange/Munich/Barleywine/magnetic/pH/invert/decoct (Al Korzonas)
  woops/burners (Al Korzonas)
  mash hops (Stephen Cavan)
  Re: What is a stout, was Re: How Stout is Lewis? ("Hans E. Hansen")
  NRM / MRI ("Frederick J. Wills")
  reusing primary fermenter yeast cake (Adam Holmes)
  magnet whoops ("David Hill")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:17:01 -0500 From: George Forsyth <gforse at nevia.net> Subject: Back to Brewing With due respect to all involved, and wishing no flames, righteous indignation, or first amendment protestations, I have a suggestion.... Let's use the HBD for its intended purpose--a discussion of beer, it's recipes, brewing techniques, regulation, legalities, enjoyment, etc, all with an emphasis on Home Brewing. If members want to praise or condemn chiropractic, magnetic therapy, homeopathic treatment, acupuncture, moxibustion, herbal medicine, vitamins, dianetics etc., there are many other forums available for those purposes. Thank you, and Cheers! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 18:15:59 -0300 (GMT-0300) From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb at elmer.fing.edu.uy> Subject: phospine I was recently adviced by the person who sells grains to me, that grains are usually treated with some kind of Aluminun Phosphorous which generates phosphine. I read the label of the product and it says that 3 GM tablets generates 1 GM of phosphine gas. This person told me that one tablet can be used to desinfect 1000 kg. In this way, bug`s growth is avoided. The grain is usually treated with this product for 12 hours or longer. After that, grains are available for humans; desinfected and free of bugs. Do you thinks that this desinfected grains (wheat or barley) can be used for brewing? Thanks for your reply. Jorge Blasig Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:20:01 -0700 From: John Bowerman <jbowerma at kfalls.net> Subject: Re: Magnetic Beer Harry Houk wrote: > Magnetic Beer. It'll surround and confuse all the bad cells in the body. > It'll straighten and unblock arteries, veins and capillaries. Your dog > will seem smarter after only sniffing the stuff. Your kidneys and colon > will be cleaner than distilled water. It'll clean out your house > plumbing too! ... and if you drink enough of it at night, you can just stick yourself to the refridgerator instead of needing a bed (except for pro ... uhh ... recreation). Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:43:30 +0000 From: breWorld <intray at breworld.com> Subject: Maris Otter Group Response to recent debate Maris Otter Home Brew Forum Mort you have got it pretty much spot on. The Plant Breeding Institute who were a government organisation whose address was in "Maris Lane" and prior to joining the European Union it was possible for a plant breeder to name his varieties with names which denoted his involvement with the variety (like a trade name). "Maris" was the chosen name for the Plant Breeding Institute. Incidentally the organisation was purchased from the government by Unilever during the mid '80s, who have just announced their own plans to sell off these plant breeding activities. The National Institute of Agricultural Botany is an independent body who asses new varieties of productive plants for their advantages over those existing in the market place. Its work is generally slanted toward agronomic importance followed by end market use, like suitability for malting and brewing. Thus in the mid 1950s Maris Otter was "convinced", or more accurately, selected to suit the brewers of the day who were mainly brewing cask ales. It has proved to be very, very suitable. This is not without technical merit. Its starches gelatinise over a wider temperature range in the mash tun. The wort drains freely and the ale 'drops bright' (clears) quickly upon arrival in the cellar. Many brewers ascribe unmatchable taste profiles to it especially at lower alcohols. There must be more to it than this. Everywhere I go and ask the question, "Why do you brew with Maris Otter malt?" The answer comes back, "because it is the best." This testimony is proven time and time again in beer competitions, most recently the 1997/8 CAMRA Champion Winter Beer was brewed by Ian Hornsey using Maris Otter Malt. The track record shows Maris Otter was chosen for a particular use, and has yet to be surpassed for quality malt. It is the brewers' choice but not the accountants'. Maris Otter survives. Its production is matched to the market demand; its producers can increase the supply if necessary and it will continue to flourish for as long as there are brewers who appreciate its value, not its price. With kind regards Gordon Gowland The Maris Otter Group http://www.breworld.com/malt/maris.html ++++++++ ======================================================================== Email: intray at breworld.com URL: http://www.breworld.com Stay tuned with all the information on http://www.breworld.com/news/ breworld Ltd The Brewery 80 Parsons Green Lane London SW6 4HU 0171-610 6448 (Tel) 0171-610 6447 (Fax) ==================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 12:15:52 +0100 From: Tony Barnsley <Tony.Barnsley at riva-group.com> Subject: Re: Invert Sugar Question In HBD #2700, Mike Megown asked about invert sugar. The easiest source of this in the UL is Lyons Golden Syrup. Some homebrew stores carry Dried invert sugar in blocks. You can make it at home by boiling a syrup of cane sugar (1 lb./pint water) with a tsp. of citric acid. When it takes on a golden colour (15 Mins?) turn off the heat and allow to cool. You then neutralise the acid with some calcium carbonate. (This is from memory I had to do it when I made a liqueur kit and all the ingredients apart from the cane sugar and water were supplied) You could substitute glucose for the Invert cane sugar Wassail (Tony, Blackpool, Lancashire, UK) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:21:08 -0500 (CDT) From: dfikar at flash.net Subject: Re: Clinitest, Invert Sugar, NMR/MRI >NMR/MRI ("David R. Burley") >Dean Fikar says to my comment on MRI: > >>Actually, MRI is based on radio freq. energy produced by >nuclei (mostly >>hydrogen) resonating in a relatively strong magnetic field. > >Actually I probably know more about this than you, as it >sounds from your comment. Maybe you do but your main point, from what I remember, was that the body isn't affected by magnetic fields - at least in a way that lends itself to medical imaging. This is not true. Protons are tiny dipoles and most definitely are affected by magnetic fields in an MRI. Sam's comment that in effect said that imaging would not be possible without the body's nuclei being susceptible to magnetic fields was correct. Your reply was that MRI had nothing to do with the body's response to magnetic fields. That is incorrect and was the only point I was trying to make. >The nuclei do not produce radio frequency energy. That is correct and I left out one important step in the process. The RF receive coils (made of copper, I think) convert the magnetic flux into RF signal which then is processed into the image. I *don't* understand this very well so feel free to expound on the process. :-) - --------------------------------------------- Dean Fikar - Ft. Worth, TX (dfikar at flash.net) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:33:59 -0400 From: Harold L Bush <harrybush at compuserve.com> Subject: Clean Burners Jim Bentson mentioned a neat 35 kBTU burner that he bought years ago. Funny he should mention that, because I just saw what may be the exact burner in a Northern Hydraulics flyer (no. 589) . It's on page 5. They list it at 35 kBTU, it has three separate valves on the front, it looks like it has two coencentric burner rings, and all for $40 (plus $15 for the hose /regulator assembly)- certainly much less than I paid for my Superb (which I am very satisfied with). For those interested, Northern Hydraulics is at 800-533-5545. The cat. no. of the burner is 330973-F589, and the hose/reg. is item #330972-F589. No affiliation, just a "not-always-satisfied" customer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:52:43 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Stout Definition Brewsters: Bryan Gros says about Lewis' book:: >I wasn't interested in looking at all the commercially >available "stouts" and analyzing them. I was interested in the >history of stouts, and I wanted Lewis to then condense that into >a definition of stout. Actually Lewis spent a lot of time on the history of stouts, which I also enjoyed. He made the point that while others have said that Stout came from Porter, he isn't sure based on the evidence. So even that isn't apparently clear on an historical basis, let alone a hard fast rule for "this is a porter and this is just a black beer and THIS is a Stout." Remember that brewing is an art and therefore each brewer-artist has his own interpretation. We are the ones who presumably need the label. "Ooops, sorry Dali but that definitely is not a cubist painting. You'll have to call it something else" just doesn't wash. Remember that the current definition of style as put forth by the BJCP is one of using *current* commercial beers and whatever the brewer wishes to call them as standards. I understand the necessity, but, like you, I find this to not be what I am looking for and so I have little patience for the beer police when I make what I like to drink and call it what I like. However, Lewis is consistent with this BJCP position of defining style. Brian interpreted Lewis' whole book by saying: > "gee, these are all different. I guess there is no common >definition of a stout". Actually, if you spend a little time really reading the book and looking at the plots you will find that there certain common grounds, Thick head, black color, high body (although I must say that recent tastings of keg Guiness has left me with a sensation that body is becoming less of a characteristic of their stout), acetaldehyde, roasty/burnt, no diacetyl, etc. but that there are different definitions by all the brewers of what they mean when they say "stout" and he was making that point. Remember that his definitions of taste were within a different framework as he explained the difficulty of trying to define the roast/burnt flavor profile. If you were to compare this to other beers, all stouts would be jammed into the upper 90% of this definition. Therefore many of the tasting profiles were within a stout framework - i.e comparing stouts to stouts. As I recall, even Guiness brews a different Stout in the Caribbean and the Far East than they do in Ireland, if you believe the questionnaires filled out by the various brewers at these locations. I find this credible, since based on tasting, I know that Lowenbrau in France is not the same beer as Lowenbrau in Germany. It is is brewed to French tastes. I believe the Germans would like to and some are brewing different beers for the US than they are for home. Anyone who has tasted Dutch beer there and here knows that this is not the same beer. So even the definition of a style by a single brewer can be different As for defining historically what a beer was like, it is difficult and I would say impossible given the major changes in hops varieties, hops storage, barley strains, malting and kilning processes, brewing process controls, fermentation vessels, kegs, etc., etc., since the 1850s. CAMRA has done some work in this area and I suggest you explore their offerings. - ------------------------------------------ Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:59:06 -0500 From: "George, Marshall E." <MGeorge at bridge.com> Subject: Portland Brewpubs Thomas Kramer asks where the brewpubs are in the downtown area near the Benson hotel. As a former Oregonian, you will have some walking selections, but not much at least downtown. The Widmer Gasthaus is within walking distance, and any concierge (sp?) worth his salt should be able to get you there from the Benson (I can't remember the address). However, what I recommend to you is a trip to the Mission Theater on 1624 NW Glisan. It may be a bit of a walk (9 or 10 blocks, but the bus is cheap), but once you're there you will encounter something unlike anywhere that I've seen. McMenamins Brothers runs the place. It was a buck to get in, and they show movies (sometimes first run, sometimes classics) in an old renovated theater. You also can order dinner (somewhat typical brewpub fare) with a good selection of their own brews. I recommend both the Crystal Ale and my favorite, Hammerhead. I'm sure that more people will help here. The bus tour thing is there also, but if my memory serves me right, it's something like $50, and takes all day. Marshall George Edwardsville, Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:10:57 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com Subject: Decoction / hot ferment / long lager lag / olive stout Hi all, Tim asks how he can perform a single decoction while avoiding the protein rest temperature range. This is something that I've been playing with for a little while now. There are several options, depending on your system and the saccharification temperature you are shooting for. If you can supply heat to your mash tun, then you can rest the main mash at 40C (104F), pull a really big decoction, add it back quickly with much stirring, and then use your heat source to get up to the desired sacc. temp if you missed. You should be able to hit 60C (140F) by adding the decoction back in this manner. You could also mash in at 65C (149F) or so, pull a decoction, and add it back to bring the temp to 70-75C (158-167F). You can let the decoction cool off (or hurry it along by adding some cool water) before you add it back so as not to overshoot 75C. If you rest the main mash anywhere from 45-55C (113-132F) during the decoction, you will end up with reduced body and head retention. I know, I've done it (several times)! ------------------------------------ Dave in Seattle tells us about his warm (78F, 25.5C) 1.100 Barley wine fermentation. He is wondering if he can avoid having this batch turn into "jet fuel." By jet fuel I assume Dave means higher alcohols (also called fusel alcohols). These taste relatively unpleasant (harsh) and seem to give me (and others I know) instant hang overs. There aren't many opportunities for one to say "always" or "never" in this craft, but this is as close as you can get: increased temperature = increased yeast growth = increased higher alcohol production (aka, jet fuel). Just to further depress you, higher gravity fermentations also yield increased higher alcohols. Under-pitching exacerbates the problem. On the bright side, given enough time, the higher alcohols will oxidize and the beer will take on a nice, aged, sherry-like character that is appropriate (even desirable) in barley wines. Time heals some wounds, patience is the key! -------------------------------- John in Brisbane asks why he can't achieve an acceptable lag time when pitching lager yeast. He leaves out some important info: wort aeration method, starter aeration method, and starter temperatures. My guess is that he fermented the starter at higher-than-lager fermentation temperature. This could be part of the problem: after the starter fermented out, he put it in the fridge. This cold shock would very likely slow the yeast down a tad bit. It then took a while to wake up after pitching time. This is compounded by the fact that the wort was underpitched, too. Because of the lower temperatures, you want to pitch even more yeast for a lager than you would for an ale. The small brewer rule of thumb that ale yeasts can be stepped up 10X in volume at each pitching should be reduced to 5X for lager yeasts at cool temperatures (i.e., a one gallon starter for every 5 gallon batch). ------------------------------------- Chris in NH tells us about a stout that he has had that tastes like olives. What follows is pure speculation: While I've never had the beer he is referring to, I have evaluated a beer in competition that smelled like olives. It was a smoked Doppelbock. My guess was that the phenolics (from the smoke) blended with the malt and some esters to make an aroma that I perceived as olives. Stouts, with their high percentage of burnt malts, can have noticeable phenols. Perhaps this is part of the source of the olive character. Have fun! George De Piro (Malting away in Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:38:34 -0500 From: Paul Niebergall <pnieb at burnsmcd.com> Subject: pH, Oregon Fruit, sasquatch n HBD 2697, A.J. writes: >>I suggest that these folks cool the sample to room temperature and >>subtract 0.1 pH from their room temperature readings. >>While on the subject, I'd like to ask that other brewers who take >>readings at the mash and or boil temperatures start taking readings on >>cooled samples as well as the hot ones. I'd like to see if we can pin >>down the pH rise as a function of temperature difference, beer type >>and starting water composition. This is an excellent idea. However, trying to measure pH differences as low as 0.1 pH unit in an un-controlled home situation, with the type of pH meters typically used by homebrewers (less than 200 dollars - cheap), the results will be subject to too much variance. I have taken many, many pH readings, with many types of meters, under field and laboratory conditions. Most of the time the meters were calibrated to at least one (usually three) standard solutions. It has been a very rare occasion when the value that was measured didn't jump around plus or minus 0.5 pH units while attempting to get the correct reading. It all depends on when you get disgusted enough to pull the probe and call it good. Even if the value does stabilize, most meters used by home brewers simply are not that accurate and have not been calibrated prior to each use Also consider that calibration solutions become contaminated with time and that most people do not keep fresh standards in stock (not expired). Drippage from one container to the next, not using a separate container while calibrating, pouring used solution back into the stock jar, and dipping the probe directly from stock solution jar to stock solution jar without rinsing. Or rinsing the probe with tap water prior to calibrating. Anyway, all of this leads to accuracies problems that far exceed 0.1 pH unit. In the grand scheme of things, you could just as easily ADD 0.1 pH unit to the cooled wort sample rather that SUBTRACT 0.1. It 's not going to make a difference at all in the finished beer. .............. Oregon Fruit Puree - I made a raspberry stout back in January. It was your fairly basic stout recipe but, a little on the heavy side (o.g.= 1.055). At the end of the boil, I dumped a can of Oregon Fruit raspberry puree (1.5 kg) into the kettle and immediately shut off the burner. I let it steep about five minutes, opened the kettle valve, through my counterflow wort chiller, and into the carboy it went. (EZ Masher strainer kept the little raspberry and hop particles out of fermenter). I have made quite a few fruit flavored stouts (mostly cherry) using various flavor extracts. This stout has been by far, the best I have ever made. The extracts always seemed to add a fake kind of flavor (sometimes overwhelming). This time, the fruit puree added an excellent raspberry flavor. A hint of tartness and lots of nice fresh raspberry flavor and aroma. But not so overwhelming that it is off balance. The Oregon fruit puree is a little expensive (I think I paid about 9 dollars for the can), but well worth it. I thinking of adding a can to my pLambic that has been brewing since last September. No affiliation, blah, blah, blah. .............. Harry writes about us PROVING that the clear wave DOES NOT work. Get real Harry - I saw Sasquatch this weekend after downing a few barley wines and wandering about the woods after midnight. I think it is up to you to prove I didn't see it. ................. Brew on Paul NIebergall Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:47:05 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: What is a stout, was Re: How Stout is Lewis? Perhaps this note belongs in Judgenet, but since it's down... >>>>> "Hans" == Hans E Hansen <hansh at teleport.com> writes: Hans> I have been trying to figure out the difference between Hans> Stout and Porter for some time. I have read every book and Hans> magazine source that I can find, but get conflicting Hans> answers. I find it comforting to know that Lewis doesn't Hans> know either. As a BJCP judge, I need to speak up here. We *MUST* continue to distinguish between Porter and Stout. These are often the two largest categories in a homebrew competition. If we didn't distinguish them, the poor judges would be totally overwhelmed. It really doesn't matter much what the distinction IS, just that we have one. Thus, for competition purposes, stouts have roasted barley, porters don't, but use black malt instead (except maybe "brown" porters). Oh yeah. :-) =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:15:20 -0600 From: Kevin TenBrink <tenbrink at jps.net> Subject: breathalyzers- On the recent topic of "beating the breathalyzer"- When I was studying at Michigan State University, I took a respiratory physiology course. In this course we learned about how the lungs work and their role in regulating the acid base balance of the body. Well to make a long story short, when humans breath they do not expell all of the air in their lungs with each exhale. There is some residual air that remains in the lungs and the trachea, this is called the tidal volume if my memory serves me correctly. This tidal volume is where the alcohol traces are collected that the breathalyzer is meant to measure. A sure fire way to remove the traces of alcohol from the sample is to replace or dilute this tidal volume with fresh air...to do this simply take several very deep inhales followed by a very forceful exhale, trying to force every last bit of air from your lungs....doing this in rapid succession will reduce the measurable amount of alcohol in your breathalyzer sample. I had a recent opportunity to test this technique at a microbrew festival here in Salt Lake City. There was a representative from the police department there educating people on the dangers of drinking and driving and giving out free breathalyzers to anyone who wanted to take one. After 7 3-4 oz samples in about 1.25 hours, I waited the requisite 10 minutes and took the test without doing the above mentioned technique. I blew a 0.08, and the occifer, err officer told me that if I were to drive and get pulled over I would get a ticket for driving impared, I did not feel impared, but I my sample said otherwise. I went on to sample 5 more 3-4 beers and came back about 45 minutes later and took the test again. While I was waiting my turn, I was performing the above mentioned technique. When the officer saw me approach she grinned and asked me if I had been trying to "sober up". I told her on the contrary that I had resumed sampling the beers and wanted to see what the effects were on my BAC. I took the test and blew a 0.02.....the look on her face was priceless.....at this point I WAS feeling slightly impared, however, my breathalyzer test said otherwise. The officer went on to explain that even with a 0.02 if I were involved in an accident and the officer administered this test I could still be issued a ticket etc etc etc.... This post is not meant to encourage irresponsible drinking and driving and I do not condone such behavior....but the next time you are driving home from your club meeting and forget to use a turn signal or make an improper lane change, it may be advisable to keep this in mind to avoid a potentially expensive and embarrasing DUI ticket. Kevin Salt Lake City Nine Inch Ales Homebrew CLub http://www.jps.net/tenbrink/nineinchales.htm Seven Days Without Homebrew Makes One Weak Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 15:11:15 GMT From: marnold at netnet.net (Matthew Arnold) Subject: Care and feeding of a Gott mash/lauter tun Last Sunday I completed my fourth all-grain batch. I'm hooked. But I do have a question. What should I be doing to properly clean my mash/lauter tun? I've got a seven-gallon Gott cooler with Phil's phalse bottom, using a little piece of copper tubing to go from the phalse bottom to the bulkhead. I've been rinsing it very thoroughly and last time I let the false bottom soak in bleach water for a little bit and then rinsed completely (didn't want to destroy the copper tubing). I'd just hate to have to dump a batch of beer because it got infected in my mash tun. Or am I just being too paranoid? Will anything that is living in the mash tun just be killed off in the boil? It would seem to be that during the mash and sparge any bugs would have plenty of time to produce their nasty byproducts and foul the wort. Any thoughts? Banter? Hearsay? Ein Prosit! Matt - ----- Webmaster, Green Bay Rackers Homebrewers' Club http://www.rackers.org info at rackers.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:19:38 -0600 (Canada Central Standard Time) From: Barry Allen <allen at SEDSystems.ca> Subject: Rice Syrup Info Provided Thanks all who replied to my request for help on rice syrup. I had too many personal replies to respond to them all. A local supplier replied to me, so I now have my source. Thanks also for those who sent recipes -- I look forward to trying them. Consensus was to buy rice syrup ( at about $3.50/lb) and use 1 to 2 lb in a 5 gallon batch. Barry Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Apr 1998 12:17:26 -0400 From: EFOUCH at steelcase.com Subject: BT Subscriptions HBD'rs- I just talked to the BT subscription hot line (and believe me, they needed some talking to!) about my urecieved magazine. They said they just found the problem Friday (the 24th) and have fixed it. Magazines are going out to the affected "problem people" (hey- I've been called worse- by better!) post haste, and they will be extending our subscriptions by one month. Fred K.- I hope you don't think this means I'm pissed at YOU! Eric Fouch at at Bent Dick YoctoBrewery > Kentwood MI. \ / \ / Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:31:50 -0700 From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: Hop Trellis (ASCII warning) I came up with what I think is a neat design for a hop trellis. It's a permanent solution so it may not be for everyone. It uses threaded galvanized gas plumbing set in concrete. Total cost for materials is about $40. Materials (for 2 trelli): Qty =============================== === 5 ft 3/4" galvanized gas pipe 2 5 ft 1/2" galvanized gas pipe 3 10 ft 1/4" galvanized gas pipe 2 3 inch 3/4" galvanized gas pipe 2 1/2" x 3/4" tee 2 1/2" x 3/4" reducing coupling 2 1/4" x 1/2" reducing coupling 2 60 lb bag aggregated concrete 1 Dig two post holes down 2.5' ft on 5' centers. Screw a 1/2" x 3/4" tee to the end of each 5' section of 3/4" pipe. Screw a 5' section of 1/2" pipe between the 1/2" tees on each section of 3/4" pipe (to form an old-style goal post). Screw the 3 inch pieces of 3/4" pipe into the tees and then screw the 1/2" x 3/4" coupling onto these short pieces. Set the assembled unit into the holes in the ground and pour 1/2 of the bag of concrete into each hole. Level the assembly and let the concrete set. Or in ASCII: T Ttt = 1/2" x 3/4" tee, where T is 3/4" and t is 1/2" T x = 1/2" pipe X = 3/4" pipe C = 1/2" x 3/4" reducing coupling g = the ground * = concrete C C X X T T TttxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxttT T T X X X X X X X X X X ggXggggggggggggggggggggggXgg ggXggggggggggggggggggggggXgg ggXggggggggggggggggggggggXgg g*X*gggggggggggggggggggg*X*g g*X*gggggggggggggggggggg*X*g g*X*gggggggggggggggggggg*X*g gggggggggggggggggggggggggggg Once the concrete has set up good, you can screw the 5' sections of 1/2" pipe to the 1/2" couplings on the assembled unit, extending the height to about 7'. Now you can screw the 1/4" x 1/2" couplings onto the 5' section of 1/2" pipe and then screw the 10' sections of 1/4" pipe into the couplings to extend the overall height to about 17". (I haven't bought the 1/4" pipe yet and may actually use 1/8" pipe instead to lessen the load but I probably won't need to extend past 7" in the first year). Now you have a nice high pole to string up your hop vines. My idea is to be able to disassemble the top portion of the trellis at the end of the season to harvest the cones, and then reassemble it in the spring when needed. By using threaded pipe, this can be done quickly and sections can be added to extend the poles even further. The 1/2" pipe between the two poles is there to give the two poles more support. I put 3 of these in my yard this year, so I have 6 poles for hops to climb. I only planted 5 varieties this year, Goldings, Liberty, Saaz, Tettnang, and Cascade. I have one slot open for expansion, but I don't know what variety I will plant there. Thanks for the bandwidth. John PS> Boy, was the Pyrex carboy w/oxygen condom idea a stinker, or what? John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Boneyard Brewing The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Glenside, PA rust1d at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:14:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: bud/orange/Munich/Barleywine/magnetic/pH/invert/decoct Barry writes: >I want to do a "Budweiser Lite" brew (hey, relax, it is for my wife. Have to >keep her happy with my hobby.). I have my 1/2 hop ready to go, but how do I >deal with the rice issue? My home brew supplier says he cannot find a source >for rice extract. Can I make it myself? Can I add rice to pot during the >1/2-hop boil? When? How much? Is there any suitable substitute, such as corn >sugar? You can use corn sugar, but ask your supplier to look in his/her wholesale catalogs for "rice syrup" or "rice syrup solids." These are the rice equivalents of malt extract syrup and DME. I know that L.D.Carlson carries them. *** Brandon writes: >I have a question regarding the addition of orange to a belgian ale. My >most recent brew was a belgian ale which has now been in the secondary >fermenter for quite some time since I haven't had the time to bottle. I >have heard of people adding coriander and bitter orange peel to belgians and >was thinking of bottling half of the batch and spicing the other with these, >just to see how it turns out. I haven't found bitter orange peel locally >here, but did find dried mandarin peel in an oriental food market and was >wondering whether it would serve as a substiture. The descriptions of >bitter orange peel I have seen generally indicate that it is brown/green and >nasty looking. The mandarin peel is brown and nasty too, but that may be as >far as the similarities go - I don't know. Any thoughts? Also, would there >be anything wrong with bottling half the batch and spicing the other? Curacao orange peel doesn't lend an "orange" flavour as we usually think of it. Phil Seitz, in his Zymurgy article, says it smells to him like chamomille (sp?). Freshly ground, aged whole coriander smells very citrusy and you can get some citrusy aromatics from some Belgian Ale yeasts. If you really want an orange flavour, consider orange extract or orange liquor. If you want to add the traditional Curacao orange to your Belgian- style Ale, then there are a number of HB shops that now carry the real thing. *** >In HBD #2696 George De Piro asks, regarding Munich Malt base grain, >"..how much of a difference to the Maillard reactions will 1-2% total >nitrogen be?" Actually, 1-2% sounds like very little, but consider the fact that a good low-protein malt will contain only 8 to 10% protein, 1 to 2% more would be a 10 to 25% increase! *** Dave writes (regarding a Barleywine that started fermenting after racking): >I suggest you try a Clinitest to see if you have any residual >fermentable sugar. If it is less than 1/4% glucose ( maybe >1/2% in the case of a barleywine - I don't know) you do >not have a yeast fermentation, if you do, I'd let it continue. >If there is still fermentable sugar available, you might >consider adding a small amount of yeast nutrient and >some b vitamins. I would try it on a small sample first. >OTOH, this may simply be the result of this warming up >and the CO2 bubbling off and stirring up some yeast from >the bottom. If this is the case, you can bottle it. Well, you blame me for criticising something I haven't tried (I haven't tasted lye, but I know to avoid it) and then you recommend using Clinitest on a Barleywine, waving your arms when it comes to the numbers for which they should look... I recommend a more tried-and-true method: calculate your apparent attenuation (that's the attenuation that factors in the fact that alcohol is actually present and lower in gravity than water) and see if it's reasonable. Here's the formula: (1 - (FG -1)/(OG -1)) x 100 = Apparent attenuation in percent For example: if your OG was 1.072 and the FG was 1.018: (1 - (1.018 - 1)/(1.072 - 1)) x 100 (1 - 0.018/0.072) x 100 (1 - 0.25) x 100 0.75 x 100 75% apparent attenuation Look at the range of apparent attenuations for the yeast you used and see if the number you get falls in the range. You should expect slightly lower AA if you added a lot of crystal malt and a MUCH lower AA if you used a low-fermentability extract such as Laaglander DME, "Dutch" DME, "European" DME or "Hollander" DME. I would not bottle until you get no more than one bubble every four or five minutes. I have to disagree most strongly that nutrients or B vitamins would help... there are *more* than enough of these in an all-malt Barleywine. Rousing the yeast (without introducing air) or adding more actively fermenting yeast will help speed up the completion of the ferment. *** HH writes about his magnetic beer: >Maybe the list can help me with some technical problems. I need aluminum >bottle caps. The beer sticks to the steel caps and pulls out of the >bottle at one shot. How about brass caps? I think aluminium would be too soft for the caps. Barring that, you could cork and then use brass wire for the baskets ;^). *** John writes: >I understand pH increases with higher temp and the probe life expectancy >decreases with higher temperature. Hanna Instruments probe life, I sell >their products, is about standard for the industry. They have taken into <snip> I hope you just accidentally typed that first statement backwards. As it is, pH *decreses* with higher temp. Also, your post was very close to an advertisement. Many of us have things to advertise but restrain ourselves. HBD is not the place for this. If your products are good enough, a satisfied customer will post something on your behalf. *** >Dave writes: >Mike Megown wants to know what Invert Cane sugar is and >how he can get it. Don't bother trying it. Just use Cane sugar >and the yeast will invert it for you with invertase. Recipes >which use citric or some other acid and a long boil to invert it >just put acid in your beer for no good reason. Just to show that I don't immediately disagree with Dave on everything... I agree 100%. I think it's also interesting to note that boiling sucrose in a mildly acid solution for a few minutes only inverts a very small portion of the sucrose. It would take a much lower pH and longer boil to invert even half of the sucrose. Why make invert sugar syrup then? Because by splitting a few percent of the sucrose into its component glucose and fructose, the syrup doesn't crystalise as quickly as an all sucrose sryup. For our purposes, just as Dave says, I would suggest using about 80% granular sucrose (because the syrup is about 20% water). *** Tim writes: >I want to try a decoction mash sometime in the near future (read: next >time I brew). I'm curious as to what schedule to use for a simple (as can >be) single decoction. Everything I've seen so far has you strike in the >protein rest range, and then single decoct up to sacc. rest. Is there >another way of doing it? Perhaps in the acid rest range? But wouldn't >that require the decoction to be huge (>50%) in order to hit the sacc. >rest? You can mash in at 40C (104F) and then use the decoction to raise the temperature up to the saccharification range, 65 to 70C (149 to 158F) or you can mash in into the high end of the protein rest range, 55 to 60C (131 to 140F) and then use a decotion to raise up into the 65 to 70C range. Note that for the first way, you would need to probably decoct 60% of the mash or more and for the second, only about 30 to 40%. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:34:06 -0500 (CDT) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: woops/burners Forgot to .sig that last one... sorry. Also: Mike writes: >I'm wondering if I could just buy a industrial-quality rectangular single >burner that I could adapt to fit my 12 X 18 frame. More importantly, >I would need a beefier manifold and adjustment knob. I don't know about adjustments, but fellow Chicago Beer Society member Tim Norris and professional brewer Ted Furman (Golden Prairie) have wok burners they got from Chicago's Chinatown. These multijet beauties probably spew over 100,000 BTUs of very clean blue flame. You may have to rig your own adjustment to the air intake and I believe by default they come jetted for natural gas. They are cast iron with about a dozen brass, screw-in nozzles. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:25:02 -0600 (CST) From: Stephen Cavan <cavanst at duke.usask.ca> Subject: mash hops A few weeks ago I mentioned that I was moved by Fix and De Clerck's discussion FWH to take things one step further. I wanted to avoid pellets in my brew kettle, and I wanted to increase hop flavours. I added target and Challenger hops to the mash where a higher pH would help flavour formation. The result was sampled at the local club meeting last night and was well received. The flavour is subtle and unlike any I have coaxed out of hops before. I would suggest giving it a try. The bitterness extracted was moderate, but given that the hops did not boil this is not surprising. I used 22. Target (8.3%) and 15g Challenger (8.2%) for the 90 minute mash. I had about 4kg of grain for a gravity of 1.053 in 20 liters. I also added 1 plug of Goldings (5%) for 60 minute boil At a guess I would say the final IBU level is between 35 and 40. I'll try this in a Pils next week with Saaz in the mash. Cheers, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:01:12 -0700 From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> Subject: Re: What is a stout, was Re: How Stout is Lewis? Spencer W. Thomas says: (and with much more authority, I might add) > As a BJCP judge, I need to speak up here. We *MUST* continue to > distinguish between Porter and Stout. These are often the two largest > categories in a homebrew competition. If we didn't distinguish them, > the poor judges would be totally overwhelmed. It really doesn't > matter much what the distinction IS, just that we have one. > > Thus, for competition purposes, stouts have roasted barley, porters > don't, but use black malt instead (except maybe "brown" porters). > > Oh yeah. :-) > > =Spencer While I can appreciate a hard and fast rule for AHA judging, many of us feel more than a little frustrated when we go into a pub and order a Stout or Porter and really do not know what to expect. When I ask for an IPA, I can be reasonable assured that I will get a strongish brew with hops that will knock your socks off. When I ask for a Stout, I might get a very guzzle-able beer such as Guinness or a thick, heavy, filling brew (such as our local pubs 'No Doubt Stout'). The same goes for a Porter. Pub A's Porter can taste much like Pub B's Stout. Again, I think Lewis saw the same problem when writing his book. My personal preference (which carries no weight in the matter) would be for Porter to be black guzzling beer and Stout to be black sipping beer. This would harken back to the 'Stout Porter' terminology that some writers (but not all, no flames here please) suggest is the origin for Stout. My 2 cents. Hans E. Hansen hansh at teleport.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 17:37:32 -0400 From: "Frederick J. Wills" <Frederick_Wills at compuserve.com> Subject: NRM / MRI From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> <<Actually I probably know more about this than you, as it sounds from your comment. >> Ouch Dave. A bit pretentious considering you didn't get it right either. <<The nuclei do not produce radio frequency energy. >> Actually, yes the nuclei *do* give off RF energy after having been excited, and as a product of their relaxation. It is actually this signal that is picked up by a sensitive antenna that is the NMR signal and is the source for spectra in NMR spectroscopy and image information in MRI. <<...a bunch more of my lengthy explainations in private mail cut in keeping with bandwidth preservation and HBD decorum...>> Fred Wills MR Technical Support Engineer Londonderry, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 16:19:42 -0600 (MDT) From: Adam Holmes <adamholm at holly.ColoState.EDU> Subject: reusing primary fermenter yeast cake I wanted to know how other homebrewer's were reusing their yeast from batch to batch. I did this once. Just siphoned off beer from primary to secondary, then dumped my new wort into the primary right on top of the yeast cake. Everything worked out fine but this method did not allow me to clean and sanitize my primary fermenter. I know some people "wash" their yeast. How do you do it and what is the purpose of doing it? Thanks in advance. Adam Holmes Fort Collins, CO private email OK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 08:44:44 +1000 From: "David Hill" <davidh at melbpc.org.au> Subject: magnet whoops re my recent post (HBD 2701) and the word "clarino" I have no idea where or how I managed to exchange "chlorine" for "clarino" The post should have pointed to a NEW SCIENTIST article where it was reported that chlorine sanitation of swimming pools was more effective, and effective for longer when combined with a magnetic field than chlorine alone without the magnets. Magnets on their own had no effect. but they did potentiate the effects of chlorine. The researchers had no adequate explanation for their observations. sorry to waste the bandwidth with my stupidity. David Hill. davidh at melbpc.org.au :-)> Return to table of contents
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