HOMEBREW Digest #2710 Mon 11 May 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  OH NO! (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Judge Digest? (Steve)
  Boil time and evaporation ("Hans E. Hansen")
  Lost Address (Charles Hudak)
  Acetaldehyde ("David R. Burley")
  Some newbie all grain questions ("Tim Runnette")
  Evaporation Rates (George J Fix)
  re: Kegging in an apartment (Andrew Quinzani)
  evaporation rate comparisons useless? (Andy Milder)
  Re: kegging in an apartment (Sean Mick)
  Re: Pumpernickel Stout (Jeff Renner)
  Guinness' use of roasted grains (Dan Cole)
  Heating RIMS, keg as a CO2 source, "thermal loading" ("C.D. Pritchard")
  StVrain Spring Runoff Results ("Roger Grow")
  Re: Boiling wort (Joe Rolfe)
  Announcement - The Fifth Annual BUZZ Off (MCAB QE) (Renee Peloquin Mattie)
  Re: Re-started fermentation in the secondary ("Peter J. Calinski")
  RE: kegging homebrew in an apartment (Christopher J Redlack)
  The Jethro *.* Report ("Rob Moline")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 21:03:25 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report FAQ's... Many have asked if a starter is favored for the second yeast....my experience, formed when I exercised the twit side of my brewing nature, was based on a batch of Big 12 when I tried to pitch the champagne yeast first..... It stopped at 14 P, and the only thing that really worked, was to add a kilo of Nottingham to 5 gallons fresh wort and let it work for 8 hours, then pitch it. Previous attempts to just use 500 gms in the standard manner, of reconstitution, and attemperation were minimally productive. So, use a starter, and use it in a secondary.....'tons' of yeast in the bottom of your fermenter will also prove problematic. Others have asked about ambient air temp conditioning.....and the simple answer is that brewers are sort of stuck with the level of technology they have...those with dedicated cold rooms for their beer, or even jacketed glycol chilled conditioners will employ them....those of us without them, and I was until I had some one else's commercial systems to play with, will have to utilize those rooms of their houses that have the lowest temp, or employ the wet t-shirt or towel trick, and do the best they can..... This goes back to a fundamental question...can the beer you make be better? I run into this question everyday. Yeah, it can be better, if you have the best technology that money can buy, and a team of lab specialists, and a lab, solid welds in the support of a false bottom, and a condensate drip ring in your stack.....and even a telephone in the brewhouse.......you just gotta play with the cards in your hand. If your basic techniques are clean....you will have a jamming beer in a few 'long' months!! Which brings me to...... "Barleywine," the 11th Classic Style Series Book...... It's out, and I have my copy, as a result of the Big 12 recipe being in it....and the authors state that the five elements of a barleywine are Malt, Hops, Water, Yeast...and .............................Time......they are correct! Jim Parker Resigns as AHA Director...... Maybe this is old news, but Jim Parker has resigned as AHA Director, and has already left the gig......for an offer he couldn't refuse, as GM/ Managing Partner of a Colorado BP. Jim has run several business before, many beer based, including breweries, and I know he will do well this time. Keep in touch with your mates, Jim, the homebrewers! Rob Rezac, The AHA 'Mouthpiece"..... Now, being sure that all is in jest, but just to be sure, let it be known by all and sundry that "Jethro Gump Can't Be Bought For A Six-Pack." But, anyone who suggests, even in jest, that I have been 'bought,' truly doesn't know me ..... Now, as far as Rezac is concerned, I will state my 'personal' conviction that he be appointed to the position that Jim Parker has left.... No one has tried harder to rebuild the chasms created by those that made the AHA the subject of abuse in the past....and make no mistake....they have sometimes been, shall I say, quite 'controversial?' We all make mistakes.... sometimes there are those that put their own reputations on the line to clear the debris of the past....they deserve our support........ Bottom Line....I know that Big Brew '98's effort to join homebrewers in a common effort has been fruitful....and I am damn well happy to have been involved...and continue to feel 'bloody lucky' ..........but, if you feel you have the six pack that can buy my participation in a contrivance, send it to me...and once I taste it, I will still state my true 'un-educated' opinion of it.......... Just the Fact's, Maam!....... As of tonight... 105 sites...some were registered, as a result of participating as per the rules......just not pre-registering..... one site stated that all was set to go, but at the last minute, he couldn't brew.... 30 sites haven't replied yet...(c'mon folks, send it in!) So far, over 1200 synchronized gallons of Big 10/20 have been accounted for!!! 1 site had 460 brewers!!! They were a home brew event and all that passed through had to stir the pot or throw in some hops or malt, but they participated! 1 site brewed 90 synchronised gallons of Big 10/20! 1 site brewed 2.5 gallons, synchronised! To date, 4900 lbs of homebrew malt, both grain and extract were consumed, as were 1347 oz of hops! Including those commercial sites that have reported.....1906 gallons of Barleywine were created. I think it was Jim Busch that said, "Perhaps there has never been more Barleywine brewed in the country at once before!"....(paraphrased) Whoever it was, they are probably right. Again, One Hell Of An Event, Ladies and Gentlemen! Will The Real "Micro-Brewer" Please Stand Up?... Ames, Iowa's only registered site was brewed by Jeff Kenton, under the supervision of my personal Assistant Brewer, Robbie. Skotrat was generous enough to place evidence of this on a web page..... http://www.andinator.com/skotrat/gifs/robbie.gif Robbie is the one in the foreground, seen stretching his limits to create a great brew ........Jeff is in the background, following instructions!!!! Thanks, Scott.......and Jeff! Final Point...... It has been asked, "Do you get a bottle from each site?" er... "a six-pack from each site????" Of course, I said ...."Yes!" (You can send them anytime after 4-6 months have elapsed!) Death Of Kurt Duecker... It has ben reported by Kelly Kuehl of Schreier Maltings that Kurt Duecker has died of an apparent heart attack ...... Mr. Duecker was an instructor I was fortunate to meet while at Siebel. His other professional associations are listed below....lifted directly from the IBS Forum, without their permission........ <SNIP> > Kurt was employed for thirty-six years at Schreier Malting Company in > Sheboygan. Through the years he held many positions with the . company. > Most recently in 1994, he was named Sr. Vice President, International > Development & Special Projects, 1995, President, C.O.O. PETNA > Limited, > Hong Kong, 1996, Chairman, Board of Directors, CUC Nanjing Malt Ltd. > In January of this year, Kurt retired as Executive Vice president of > Schreier Malting Company. > > Kurt was a long time member of the American Society of Brewing > Chemists, American Chemical Society-Agricultural Division, American > Association of Cereal Chemists, American Institute of Plant . Engineers, Master Brewers Association of the Americas and the American Malting > Barley Association. He was a faculty lecturer at the Siebel > Institute of Technology and the United States Brewers Academy. Kurt > was also on the Board of Directors of the American Malting Barley Association. <SNIP> Jethro proposes that all who care to, open a bottle of their fave brew, pour it gently into a glass, and lift it to Kurt......as I am doing now........we have lost another leader in our sport and he deserves to be acknowledged... Jethro (Remembering Our Mates) Gump Rob Moline Court Avenue Brewing Company, Des Moines, Iowa. brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 00:24:25 -0700 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb at stanford.edu> Subject: OH NO! "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> writes: > He mentioned to me once that he had learned at Siebel that protein that > participates in forming a froth during aeration is lost as a source of > foam in the final product. FOOP! - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 08:45:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve <JOHNSONS at uansv5.Vanderbilt.Edu> Subject: Judge Digest? It is 8 days past May 1, and I sent a post to the Judge Digest a few days ago just out of curiosity to see if it was up an running. Anyone have any idea on an update on its vital signs? Is it still in the ICU? DOA? Has it been moved into a private room...? Curious BJCP judges want to know... Steve Johnson Music City Brewers Nashville, TN.....1 mile from Dave Miller's "office" at Blackstone Brewery 1 mile from Chuck Skypeck's office at Boscos Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 07:53:08 -0700 From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> Subject: Boil time and evaporation I have been reading the thread on evaporation rates, and had a few thoughts. 1. I think that 10% evaporation is probably impossible for most of us stove top brewers. I suspect the kettle size/shape make this an unreasonable goal. I have found when doing a partial boil with 1 1/2 to 2 gal, that I get a HUGE evaporation rate (even using a very gentle boil). When I boil 5 gallons, the rate is more reasonable. Someone recently suggested that the ratio of kettle depth to surface area may be the culprit. Kinda makes sense, intuitively at least. 2. To keep my evaporation to a reasonable level, I boil vigorously for 10 minutes or so for hot break, etc. and then just simmer for the rest of the time for the hop isomerization (sp!). I hadn't seen anyone mention this, but it seems to work. Hans E. Hansen hansh at teleport.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 07:55:51 -0700 From: Charles Hudak <cwhudak at adnc.com> Subject: Lost Address Greetings, Awhile back, an HBD'er sent me some private email about a desire to develop a SNPA clone recipe. I told him that I would get back to him when time allowed (I was in the middle of midterms and work was a little hectic). Well, now that I've installed NT 4.0, I lost some of my archived mail and I don't have your email address anymore. If you're still interested in some collaboration, please email me again. Sorry about the blunder... Charles Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 11:51:36 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Acetaldehyde Brewsters: AlK says: >I have tasted beers in which there is no noticeable acetaldehyde aroma >yet there are "wet cardboard" aromas. If I'm right and this is from the >aldehyde trans-2-nonenol, then that leads me to believe that the alcohol >from whence this aldehyde (odd that it doesn't end in "yde"... and the >"ol" seems to indicate it's an alcohol) came would seem to have a higher >affinity for oxygen (or losing hydrogens) than ethanol, no? Well, first a little lesson in organic chemistry to explain that "ol" versus "yde" thing. Some aldehydes have steric or electronic environments that favor the isomerization of the carbonyl group ( C=O) by removing a proton from the beta carbon and putting it on the oxygen atom. After a little electron rearrangement you get an unsaturation ( double bond) between the alpha and beta carbon and the oxygen becomes an alcohol form called an "enol" The fact that the trans form is the stable form makes sense since this minimizes steric hindrance. Basically nonyl ( total 9 carbons) aldehyde rearranged to form an alcohol with an unsaturation ( ene ) in the 2 position of the chain. The OH group and the hydrocarbon chain are on the opposite (trans) side of the double bond to keep out of each other's way. ergo "trans- 2- nonenol" Secondly, it is a common thing that different concentrations of the same chemical have different aromas. A classic example is hydrogen sulfide. H2S is more dangerous than hydrogen cyanide, but at very, very low concentrations our nose is extremely sensitive to this substance and we use aversion to avoid going closer as a natural protection device. In higher concentrations, our nose cannot detect H2S at all and death is instantaneous. I believe George De Piro gave some examples of this concentration/aroma phenomenon after his recent classroom activities. This phenomenon is also person specific in many cases. In the most prestigious wine book in the world (Table Wines by Amerine and Joslyn): P. 449: "The accumulation of acetaldehyde during fermentation was investigated by Fromachon (1953), Paul (1958), and others (see page 356) The acetaldehyde content is an indication of the degree of aeration of table wines." P. 450: "Sherries are of course much higher in aldehydes owing to their method of production"....... Bayer ( 1966) reported that acetaldehyde content of the wines increases with age." I presume the same acetaldehyde concentration increases in Barley wines and the sherry nature of the BW increases. As time goes on, several things happen in the aldehyde arena in wines. Aldehydes are mostly bound up after fermentation, but become free with time. So aldehyde concentration goes up, despite the many reactive pathways available to the aldehydes ( oxidation to acids, acetal formation, etc.) Secondly, the higher aldehydes begin to make their appearance ( perhaps become unbound?). Also acetaldehyde and presumably other aldehydes react with the tannins and anthocyanins in wine to form a precipitate. This basically decolors wine and the brownish residue( oxidative browning reaction) is what colors sherry tan to brown, even though it was likely made from black grapes. I suppose these same reactions with hops residues and other tannins could remove some of the aldehydes from beer. The fact that aldehydes become unbound with time explains why young beer that has been oxidised tastes OK, but as time goes on it takes on "aged" off tastes. This helps resolve the problem I have with an oxidized species (oxy-melandoins) hanging around and then oxidizing the alcohols later. I assume that acetaldehyde in extremely low concentrations like in fresh Budweiser smells of green apples and in higher concentrations and in the presence of small amounts of other aldehydes, smells like sherry. > What I mean >is that if you smell an aldehyde that is NOT acetaldehyde, then I suspect >it's corresponding alcohol had a higher affinity for oxygen (or losing >hydrogens) than ethanol... otherwise, since the conditions apparently >were "right" for this alcohol to be converted to an aldehyde, then why >wasn't ethanol converted to acetaldehyde (there's plenty of it around)? >Does this make sense? I think I understand your point, but my point is if all alcohols have about the same reactivity toward oxygen and other oxidizers then you will have a variety of aldehydes, so the fact that you smell other aldehydes just means that all the alcohols are equally reactive, which is predicted. You may be more sensitive to certain other substances than acetaldehyde, so you cannot depend on your nose to do a quantitative chemical analysis. Also certain substances, including aldehydes, block your ability to smell other things ( ala air fresheners). I doubt that such an undefined smell as wet paper or whatever is just one substance. I would also like to know more about the science surrounding the identification of this substance and how a 9 carbon atom compound got in the beer, anyway. Fusel oils? I doubt it. Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 09:05:53 -0700 From: "Tim Runnette" <parothed at napanet.net> Subject: Some newbie all grain questions I've been reading a lot about single mash infusion and have decided to take the plunge from partial mash and extract to all grain. 1. I have a false bottom and a 5 gallon igloo picnic cooler.....can I use the same vessel for a mash tun and lauter tun??? 2. If no, why not? It would seem like transferring vessels would be a loss in temperature. 3. Any recommendations or lessons learned would be greatly appreciated as I delve into the world of all grain 4. Been reading The Brewmaster's Bible by Snyder as my motivation and most recent reference. Thanks in advance Tim. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 98 12:37:08 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Evaporation Rates There is a substantial literature on the detrimental effects of excessive thermal loading of wort. We gave only one reference in our book (Narziss), but this was a survey article which gave a nice review of the current state of the research in this area, as well as many references. Coors has also done a lot of work on the subject, and a preliminary report was given at the Brewing Conference held at the Univ. of Colorado - Colorado Springs in February. I was a speaker at this conference (on a completely different topic), and did not get an opportunity to take good notes on the other talks. However, I know of at least two people in this forum who did, and perhaps they may wish to comment. The mechanisms are the Millard reactions. The first products formed are simple melanoidins. These are highly desirable, and contribute a "fine malt" tone to beer. Sweet wort produced from decoction mashes and moderately modified malt has been shown to be rich in such compounds. As the thermal loading becomes extreme, a long list of other Millard products having a wide range of undesirable flavoring are formed. They are often confused with problems arising in the fermentation, but they are actually formed in the kettle and apparently pass through the without substantial change. For most brewing configurations the total evaporation is approximately proportional to the total thermal loading, and hence it is used as the indicator. (There are certain exceptions such as found in some poorly designed kettle vents.) Coors is apparently sensitive to this when the evaporation rate exceeds 12%, while Narziss quotes 13-14%. Our study indicated that perhaps it is a tad higher. Nevertheless, what is common to all these studies is that too much is bad. George made an excellent point in that we should never lose sight of the big picture. As far as overall beer quality is concerned , the issues associated with yeast are paramount. I see the issues discussed here as fine tuning, i.e., something that could add a couple more points to the scores you give your beers. I have no intention of responding either now or at any point in the future to the individuals who made nasty comments (either directly or indirectly). I do not know any of these people, and it is clear that the only thing we have in common is a very strong desire to keep it that way. George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 13:34:46 -0400 From: Andrew Quinzani <quinzani at mediaone.net> Subject: re: Kegging in an apartment > I was wondering how other people have successfully > dealt with a problem like this. I want to use 5 gallon corny kegs. I was > thinking that one of these might fit in the bottom of the refrigerator, ---------------------------- Brian, There is a device called a "cold plate", Fox equipment has it as well as any local people that service bars and soda machines in rest. It is a hunk of Alum. with copper coils running back and forth inside it, most have passes for three or more porducts (Three different beers!) The plate goes in the fridge, your kegs stay outside as well as your Co2 tank out of the way, like under a cabnet or something. The nice thing is about the cold plate is that it takes up very little room and you can put items on top of it as it is flat, about 3 inches thick. You will however have to make a hole in the side of the fridge someplace for the lines to enter...... -=Q=- "Q" Brew Brewery...Home of Hairy Chest Ale - ------------------------------------------------------------ quinzani at mediaone.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 14:38:03 -0500 (CDT) From: Andy Milder <milder at rs6k1.hep.utexas.edu> Subject: evaporation rate comparisons useless? Regarding the evaporation rate thread, I believe the 10% rate of evaporation rule-of-thumb may not be useful to homebrewers. Most likely it is a rule developed for commercial brewers. One big difference between them and us: the ratio of surface area to volume. Given the same "thermal load", the larger this ratio the more water evaporation that should take place. When I boil 25 liters in my 10 gal pot, the ratio is about .036 cm^-1. For a 10 barrel boiler, given the same kettle proportions (just scaled up in volume), the ratio is .0092 cm^-1. So we 5 gal brewers have about 4 times the surface area/volume as a 10 barrel brewer. This ratio goes like the inverse cube root of the volume. The evaporation rate should also depend on whether you boil outdoors or covered. To exaggerate the point, imagine someone inside with a partially covered pot versus someone outside on a breezy dry day, given the same thermal load, I'm willing to bet the outdoor brewer evaporates far more than the indoor brewer. I've assumed here that the evaporation rate itself is irrelevant to the quality of the beer, that it's the heat load which controls all the positive and negative aspects of boiling. Andy Milder Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 15:19:11 -0700 (PDT) From: homebrew at dcn.davis.ca.us (Sean Mick) Subject: Re: kegging in an apartment Brian asks about corny kegging without a spare fridge. I'd suggest one of at least two options. First, do what I did before I scored a spare (energy guzzling) fridge for my garage: ice your corny down in a 5 gallon plastic bucket whenever you want a beer. You can keep it in the water all the time, adding ice and some iodophor to the bucket. Custom cutting a lid to fit around the corny will both keep in the cool and keep the keg from sloshing around (stirring up yeast sediment). This method kinda sucks, frankly, and is never going to be satisfactory as a long term solution. It's just too messy and cumbersome. Second, since you said you could spare some space in your kitchen fridge, laying a corny on its side may be a viable solution. Try to find a "Spartanburg" brand soda keg with a side draw dip tube, that way you don't have to up-end the keg every time you want a beer. If you do this, keep the gas-side fitting facing up, and install a one way valve on your gas-line assembly, close to the gas quick disconnect. This will keep beer out of your regulator should the keg roll around or your system depressurize. You will need 25 inches minimum clearance from front to back of your fridge to do this, unless you stick your keg in at an angle or sideways. Mine just happens to fit perfectly sideways (in my freezer), since I stick it in there to "quick chill" it for carbonation. I'm not about to draw an ASCII rendition, but if anyone has more questions, please feel free to email me. Sean Mick Mick's Homebrew Supplies http://www.dcn.davis.ca.us/~homebrew Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 20:07:38 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Pumpernickel Stout In Homebrew Digest #2709 (May 09, 1998), I wrote about an oatmeal stout: >I also once >used some crushed raw rye kernels (pumpernickel meal) along with the >oatmeal and called it Pumpernickel Stout. I should have written that I cooked the coarse rye meal. I wrote raw meaning that it was not malted rye. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 01:33:49 -0400 From: Dan Cole <dcole at roanoke.infi.net> Subject: Guinness' use of roasted grains I remember a discussion on this list a while back ago discussing that Guinness added its specialty grains during the sparge and not as part of the mash. I have searched the archives, but cannot find the postings. Can anyone point me to the original source of this information (do I remember right that is was Michael Jackson?) and has anyone tried it for their stouts? Thanks, Dan Cole Roanoke, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 06:51:12 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: Heating RIMS, keg as a CO2 source, "thermal loading" Matthew J. Harper wanted to know if high mash dTemp/dtime changes (dT/dt) were a bad thing. I sure can't think of a reson why an instantaneous temp. rise to the desired rest temp. would be bad. As Matthew mentioned, folks do successful infusion mashes (& decoction too) and they have a very high Dt/dt. Of more importance than the value of dT/dt IMHO is the repeatability of the dT/dt from mash to mash. A change in this characteristic would change the profile of the brew from batch to batch. At what point a change becomes detectable in the brew, I don't know. dT/dt is yet another variable that can be best be dealt with IMHO by trying to keep it constant. With a RIMS, one sure needn't worry about the dT/dt being too high. <g> >I've been contemplating a non-standard heating chamber using an >external mounted (wrapped) heat source (tape or ceramic) that >gets wrapped around the pipe.... Has anyone tried this method? I experimented with a piece of 1/4" OD Cu tubing spiral wrapped with an 18" long piece of fiberglass jacketed nichrome wire (from from American Science and Surplus, about 40 W). I don't recall the dT across the thing, but I wasn't too happy with it nor with the scale-up cost to RIMS size for all of the jacketed nichrome wire which would have been required. Insulation over the assembly surely would of helped but, it'd also require some temp. sensing inside the thing so that it didin't overheat if the recirc flow was too low. If you're going to try this approach, I'd run some small scale experiments first. IMHO, a better method if you want an externally heated tube type heater is to use your HLT as the heat source in one of 2 ways: 1) Make something like a counterflow chiller and recirc. hot water from the HLT to heat the recirculating wort. 2) Forget the counterflow part and just dunk the recirc coil in the HLT ala Rick Calley's elegant system. Details at: (http://www.pressenter.com/~rcalley/index.htm). - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Yet another gadget: A spare corny keg filled with CO2 as a second source of CO2. It's a handy second source for purging carboys & kegs, pushing fluids from one container to another and dispensing from kegs away from the brewery. IMHO it's less risky to transport and use than my 20# CO2 cylinder since, although the kegs are rated for > 100 psig, I fill mine to no more than 30 psig. I fitted mine with a regulator (I use one intended for air brushes and such, ~$15) via a gas disconnect/tubing and ancillary stuff like a supply side pressure gauge and a header with valves and preattached hoses with disconnects and such. With the $15 and under used kegs that are on the market, total cost is much less than a 5# CO2 cylinder and regulator. To ensure there was little/none O2 in it prior to the first filling, I chopped off the gas-in dip tube, buttoned it up, filled the cornie with Iodophor, let soak and then pushed it out with CO2 at ~5 psig. Invert the cylinder to allow the residual Iodophor to drain then bleed the Iodophor via a gas disconnect/valve/hose. Since the pressure in the keg varies more that one used for brew, I used one of the over-sized, softer lid o-rings that Williams Brewing (std. BS....) sells and a bit of their silicone keg keg lube to avoid leakage. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Dave B. added to the evaportion/"thermal loading" thread: >My suggestion is let George explain it, if he can. Like >Scott Murman says, if past behavior is any example - I >doubt if he will provide any data to back this up, nor comment. Amen. Marks' MEngr. handbook fails to even mention "thermal loading". The term has a nice ring to but is deviod of meaning, even when taken in the context of the posting. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:39:54 -0600 From: "Roger Grow" <grow at sumatra.mcae.stortek.com> Subject: StVrain Spring Runoff Results The results of the 1998 St. Vrain Spring Run-Off Homebrew Competition are in and already posted! Congratulations to the best of show winner Bryan Tway!! Thirsty patrons will soon be tasting his knock out Weissbier at The Overland Stage Stop Brewery at the center of the brewing Universe, Longmont, Colorado! And Kudos to Steve Mertens, the new dictator of Hopsnia, a small country just south of Equador and to the left of Barlenia. To see the results, stop by The Tribe homepage at: http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/4003/ Cheers and good brews, RHG Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 15:39:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> Subject: Re: Boiling wort hello all, just my .02cents worth on this wort boiling... again you are all reading too much between the lines. but by all means keep pushing the envelope. what one brewer does should not have effect on what another brewer does. brew to your environment, modify your proceedures to get the best beer for the equipment you have. 10% has been stated in many texts as the average boiloff rate in say a "normal" 90 minute brew. this depends on what your brewing. look at A/B, just for a reference, 650bbl batch of say Bud is boiled for about 45 minutes. i have no idea how long the inter kettle residence time is (wort holding to kettle to chiller) but they do boil the crap out of it for those 45 minutes. this is visible (if you dare get close enough) by the huge volume of wort being thrown in the kettle. granted the internal boiler (calandria and pumps). it is way more than a rolling boil. this is similar to the overpowered burners most homebrewers stuff under their kettles. all this is fine so long as several key points are produced at the end of the boil: 1) the wort is sterilized 2) you have gotten the hop qualities spec'd for the beer 3) you have obtained a good break for stability 4) OG of the wort is as spec'd 5) ph is in the proper range for fermentation 6) probably the most important - dont go broke doing it. lot of this info can be obtained from commercial quality brewing texts or a nice visit to the Coors library in colorado. even then the scale they talk about is totally different that the scale of most homebrewers (pilot batches/plants are typical of microbrewer sizes....) the bottom line is if you brew great beer - keep doing what your doing. i doubt very much if it matters that you boil off 8% or 15% or 20%... the bottom line is is the beer coming out of the process good. process is important, but quality ingredients is more important and this is where most of us (including small microbrewers) get screwed. we have no solid info as to the quality, we assume we are getting quality but we can not afford to test for it.. anyway - i will be shut my trap now good luck and great brewing joe rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:19:27 -0400 From: Renee Peloquin Mattie <rpmattie at voicenet.com> Subject: Announcement - The Fifth Annual BUZZ Off (MCAB QE) 1998 BUZZ Off (MCAB Qualifying Event) June 27-28, 1998 The Fifth Annual BUZZ Off will be held at Victory Brewing Company in Downingtown, PA. We will be judging all homebrewed Beer, Mead, and Cider as defined in the 1998 BJCP Style Guidelines. The 1998 BUZZ Off is a Qualifying Event (QE) for the Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB), your entry in any of the 18 MCAB subcategories is eligible to be selected to enter the MCAB National Championship round. The 1998 Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year will be announced at the BUZZ Off. New to the BUZZ Off this year is the New Brewer First Batch Competition for first time homebrewers. The BUZZ Off also hosts the Pennsylvania Club Challenge -- the highest scoring PA Homebrew Club in the BUZZ Off will be awarded the PA Challenge Cup! The BUZZ Off will also be hosting a full day of Beer related events for Beer Enthusiasts! Information about the BUZZ Off is available at the BUZZ Off Web Page at: http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff note: the character in front of rpmattie is the tilde character (not an underscore, some mailers convert argh!!!!!) If you are interested in receiving a competition entry packet see the Web site, or contact us via phone, e-mail, or the Web. The deadline for entries is June 20th. Judges/Stewards -- If you are interested in Judging or Stewarding, we want to hear from you! For more information check the Web Page or contact: Robert Mattie, Comp Organizer rpmattie at voicenet.com Jim McHale, Sponsorship Committee (610) 889-0905 brewipa at aol.com Chuck Hanning, Judge Co-ord, (610) 889-0396 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 22:36:41 -0400 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Re: Re-started fermentation in the secondary > > Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 07:33:17 -0400 (EDT) > From: "Arnold J. Neitzke" <neitzkea at frc.com> > Subject: > > On Thu, 7 May 1998 brian_dixon at om.cv.hp.com wrote: > > > - Dissolved CO2, and CO2 trapped or 'stuck' to suspended yeast can be > > released during the racking process. The result is increased bubbling > > of the airlock and yeast falling out of suspension. This is normal > > and can be ignored unless the bubbling lasts a long time. > > > > - Primary fermentations that are not complete, but happen to have a > > leaky fit around the stopper and airlock (or bucket lid) often appear > > to be done or slowing, but then increase after racking. What really > > happened was that after racking the leaks in the system were fewer or > > gone and the CO2 is now going through just the airlock. Knowing how > > long the beer's been in the primary is your primary clue here, plus > > any SG measurements you may have taken. > > > > >From the time I pitched the yeast to when I transfered to the secondary > was two weeks, the beer was at 1.022. This was on a Friday when I racked > it to the secondary and added the hops, it was still bubbling on the > following Teusday. Even a week later (Friday) there was still some air > lock activity. > > I'm sure my air lock was seated tightly on the primary, I'm pretty anal > about that. I checked the FG of the secondary when it did stop bubbling > (again) and it was at 1.016, so it wasn't quit done yet but why it stopped > in the primary is still a mystery (to me). > > By the way, after being in the bottle for two days, it tasted pretty good, > so I don't think it is infected, time will tell. > > Thanks for all the responses I received. I didn't see your original post. I experience the exact sequence you do with nearly every batch I brew. I went back in my records for the last year and 12 of 17 batches note the same thing. Bubbling of the air lock in the primary (plastic) fermenter stops. Some positive pressure is evident but no bubbles in a 10-15 minute period. Rack to the secondary (usually I dry hop but 4 of the batches didn't call for it so I didn't....same effect anyway). Bubbles start in a few hours at a once per second rate and continue for many days, slowing to once per five minutes or so. In one case (using Glenbrew Ale yeast) the OG went from 1.050 to 1.017 in 6 days. I racked to the carboy and dry hopped. It was still bubbling 25 days later.. I bottled anyway because the SG was down to 1.006. It was the best IPA I have ever made. I haven't been able to duplicate it though I tried 7 times so far. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:45:38 -0400 From: coolhandluke1 at juno.com (Christopher J Redlack) Subject: RE: kegging homebrew in an apartment Brian asks: >I have been thinking, lately, about kegging my homebrew, for all of the >good reasons we hear about in this HBD forum. My hesitation lies in the >fact that I live in a one-bedroom apartment, and don't have the room for an >extra refrigerator. I too live in a one bedroom apartment and have found a solution for you. Obtain a small fridge that is bit taller than a standard 5 gal homebrew keg. It may not look like it can handle a keg, but it can with a few modifications. Here are the steps. 1. Remove all of the shelving 2. Disconnect the cooling mechanism from the top (this often acts as a freezer) and *carefully* bend it towards the back of the fridge so that it is out of the way. 3. Unscrew the plastic piece from the door (where you'd normally keeps eggs, butter milk, etc.) and replace it with a piece of plexy glass. The plexy glass will act as a frame to hold the gasket in place. The screws can be found under the rubber gasket. This will give you enough room to close the door. You should now have enough room for one keg and a CO2 tank. The final step can also be used to create a great deal more room in a regular size fridge. I friend of mine has been able to put five kegs in standard size fridge simply by removing the plastic piece that came installed in the door of his fridge. Nothing like having a few extra choices. Good luck, Chris Redlack Rockville, MD "Shut up brain or I'll stab you w/ a Q-tip." - Homer _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:55:08 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro *.* Report The Jethro *.* Report I had a post in, and upon receiving the queue response, saw that the aggrieved party had a post in line........besides, I talk too much..... Mr Burley writes..... >My suggestion is let George explain it, if he can. Like >Scott Murman says, if past behavior is any example - I >doubt if he will provide any data to back this up, nor comment. Scott has apologized..... Dave, not everyone is able to match your standard of voluminous posts, nor your bio/chem/photo savvy, (which could be a blessing,) nor your standards of civility, prudence, and common courtesy. Thank God..... Jethro Return to table of contents
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