HOMEBREW Digest #2730 Wed 03 June 1998

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  re: Mr. Beer (true confessions) (Larry Helseth)
  Spent Grain in Bread (Jack Schmidling)
  honey (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Update on Saflager dry yeast (was: Update on Safale) (Mat Farrington)
  Re: decoctions (Scott Murman)
  Re: Mash/Sparge One Day etc. ("Matthew J. Harper")
  All Grain Help (John Penn)
  My  Aeration Method---Comments please ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Molasses Suppliers? ("Lee, Ken")
  "debunk" = calling someone a liar (Samuel Mize)
  Fullers Summer Ale (Brad McMahon)
  Debunking myths / Splitting the brew day (George_De_Piro)
  Re:  Safale (Danny Breidenbach)
  debunking good sanitation (Michael Rose)
  Iodophor in beer (John Wilkinson)
  hop flavor, tasting ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Does Wyeast 1338 ever stop? ("Hans E. Hansen")
  the AHA nationals BIG mess in the NE (AlannnnT)
  re: mash/sparge one day, boil the next (John_E_Schnupp)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 22:00:35 -0500 From: Larry Helseth <lhelseth at class.org> Subject: re: Mr. Beer (true confessions) HBD- In HBD#2726, John L asked what to do with his Mr. Beer machine; Eric F answered in HBD#2727 with the suggestion of using for a "mini keg". John L will need something to plug the hole in the lid of the Mr. Beer container, which is fitted to accept an airlock. Any suggestions from the group? A small, sanitized stopper from the inside? Yes, I confess to having been drawn to the HBD to learn more about homebrewing after, myself, entering the hobby by way of Mr. Beer. I started with their enticing promise that "anyone can do it", but soon found the taste wanting. All it took was a trip to my local microbrewery to convince myself there was more to brewing than just mixing water, a concentrate, dry yeast and sugar. I stumbled on Dave Miller's "Homebrewing Guide" at a local bookstore, and decided, with his illustrations, that I COULD try something more complicated. I followed Dave Miller's suggestion of checking the Yellow Pages for home brewing suppliers in my area, and located a nearby store. After my first "Classic Pale Ale", I poured out the remaining "Mr. Beer" bottles to make way for beer with flavor! I'll never go back, but, in the words of my local home-brew supply house proprietor, "At least Mr. Beer got you started!" I'm impressed with a group of connoisseurs who, rather than slam a novice for using such primitive equipment, offer constructive suggestions and encouragement to newcomers! I look forward to receiving more instruction in the Art from the collective HBD! Adios, -Larry Helseth (not clever enough to come up with a funny tag line, just glad I'm learning how to make good beer!) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 22:17:58 -0700 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Spent Grain in Bread I think some folks are missing the point of using spent grain in bread. You can not replace the flour with the spent grain because there is nothing left that remotely resembles flour. What is left however, is roughage and lots of flavor. So if you add a cup or two of spent grain to the cheapest white flour you can find, you will make bread that will have the taste and texture of expensive, whole grain. The best way to process the spent grain is to dry it and run it through a... gag... Corona to make a medium/course grist out of it. You can use it wet, right out of the kettle but be prepaired to spend a lot of time picking your teeth. There is an Application Note on our web page on the subject. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: Beer Stuff......... http://ays.net/jsp Astronomy....... http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:51:05 +0200 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: honey beelovers, As a supplement for the sugar- inversion thread: Cold spin-dried honey contains enzymes which can cause honey go sugary. Commercial honey has almost allways been heated so the enzymes are destroyed. Ingredients of honey are: invertsugar 70-80 % (approx. 34.7 % glucose) fructose (laevulose) 39.2 % saccharose up to 10 % dextrine up to 10 % protein, volatile aromatics, formic acic, ashes and water Greetings from Holland, Hans Aikema Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 16:04:19 +0930 From: Mat Farrington <mat at holon.net> Subject: Update on Saflager dry yeast (was: Update on Safale) Earlier I wrote: > > I have also used the Saflager S-23 yeast on a batch which is currently in > the primary. The sachet says genuine lager yeast. The ferment is giving > off sulphur smells and bubbling happily at 14C, so it certainly is > behaving like one. [ Extra pale LME, bittering Ringwood, late Saaz. Still chugging along nicely at 14C. 1052 down to 1014 after 9 days. Now bubbling once every 2 minutes and starting to clear down. ] Tasting like one too. :-) I'm un-clear on what is sufficient for lagering. Must there be an extended period of cold storage under airlock, or can it be under seal? Also, how cold is "cold"? I will move the cleared beer into bottles and then store these at 13C for a few weeks. If lagering means "secondary for two months at 5C" say, then how different are my 13C bottles going to taste at two months? Feedback appreciated, Mat F. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 01:10:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: decoctions OK, I'll stick my neck out again... > In my Dunkel, I only used .5# of 150L Crystal, but that flavor > (combined with 4 oz of Chocolate) overwhelmed the beer, > IMO. Decoction would darken the beer without having to use so much > dark malt and would make it maltier. A perfect fit, or so it would > seem. Decoctions are just plain fun. That they can make good beer is an added bonus. People will probably debate their usefulness until instant beer crystals are invented, and beyond. > I planned on trying a single Decoction, employing a rest in the > 131-135F range and using a decoction to bring it up to 156-158F. My > concerns are these: > > 1) How long do you decoctors (is that a word?) rest the decoction at > saccrification temperature before boiling? Most things I've read say > "a short time." Most of your enzymes are left in the mash tun after you pull the thick decoction. Someone here on the HBD used the phrase "enzyme pool" when referring what's left after pulling the decoction and I think that's an excellant phrase. I rest for 15 or 20 minutes, but I don't even know if that does much. One thing I do advise is adding about 1 qt. of water to the decoction before turning on the gas. 2 gal. of sugary grain tends to burn and stick like nothing else. The water will help you avoid a 1/2 inch crust of burnt grain on the bottom of the pot. And stir. And stir. And stir. > 2) Using the single decoction mentioned above, and assuming that I > rest the decoction at sacc. temps for 15 mins and then boil for 15 > mins, that means that the main mash will be at 135ish for 45 minutes > (figuring a 15 minute initial rest). Isn't this way too long? If you're not using a significant amount of wheat, the I'd say you probably want to re-think your mash step. There are many games you can play, depending on the style you're brewing. If you want to rest at 135F for extended periods, then I would suggest parking at 160F for your sacc. rest. Dextrins can give good head just as proteins do (better?). You could also try decocting 105 -> sacc. temp., or 105 -protein rest -> add boiling water to first sacc. rest, etc. Like I said, there are many games you can play. Too much time within the 115-135 range without a large amount of medium and large molecular weight proteins is probably going to lead to problems though. Remember, your enzymes are sitting in that pool doing there work, not in the useless junk you're boiling (scorching) the crap out of. Protein rests can be useful, but as I'm sure George De Piro will point out, they're not to be trifled with. > 3) Could I improve color and maltiness sufficiently enough by just > draining and boiling the first runnings and using those to bring the > mash up to mash-out temperatures (and not doing a grain decoction at > all)? Personally, and I've only tried it once, but I don't think boiling the thin late decoction adds much. It seems much like adding 15 minutes to your kettle boil. I'd advise sticking to the grain boiling. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 08:45:50 -0400 From: "Matthew J. Harper" <matth at progress.com> Subject: Re: Mash/Sparge One Day etc. Ira Plotinsky says: >Jack Schmidling writes about letting his wort sit until it cools, not >cooling it with a wort chiller. This was in response to Randy Ricchi >writing about yet another unorthodox method in brewing. > >As I thanked Randy, I now would like to thank Jack. I don't even own >a wort chiller and have never artifically cooled my wort. And like >Jack, no problemo. It gets me to thinking that what this list could >use is a thread for debunking long held beliefs about brewing that >have no basis in practice. I'm not suggesting we stop paying >attention to >sanitation, but I sure think a good area for debunking would be in >the field of all that attention to sterilization. I have had any >number of emergencies occur in brewing where I simply had to either >break sanitation practice or throw out 5 gallons of beer. I have >always opted for the former and I have yet to lose a batch to >infection. I know it can happen and probably will sometime, but is >it worth the obsessive-compulsive rituals we are all going through? I've read this several times, taken a break and re-read it again and I still find the content a bit inflammatory. 'No basis in practice'; Them's fightin' words! <grin> My actual participation in the Digest has been hot & cold over the last 6+ years, but I *do* consider and weigh all the info it brings to me each day. I believe that, for the most part, actions taken by the majority are reasonable and worth while, certainly not 'obsessive-compulsive rituals' towards sanitation or anything else. The composition of wort has been determined and proven scientifically, as has what can *happen* to wort (and the resulting beer) if it is mis-handled or improperly treated. This includes the wonderful Botulism threads, skunking, 'floaters', off-tastes (that nice generic category) and poor head retention. As with anything else in life no two people will treat any one thing the same way, so we all have our own little processes, beliefs and idiosyncrasies. My personal opinion regarding leaving the wort in the kettle overnight is a mistake, akin to leaving any other food out in the pot overnight. It's simply something I don't do, partly for fear of infection, but also do to the strong likelihood that changes in flavor will occur (for good or bad, I don't care cause it most likely won't be something I can repeat with any level of accuracy). I do chill my beer right after brewing. There are several tried and true reasons based in practice: 1. My time to brew is limited The faster I can complete the entire process, the better While I love to brew, it's but one of several hobbies and responsibilities I carry each day. 2. Better sense of control. I can repeat my steps with a very good level of accuracy every time I brew. Letting it cool overnight is very dependant upon ambient temperature and other environment considerations; most of which I have no control over. If I can't control the process, I can't reliably repeat it. 3. Faster time to pitch/ferment Like it or not, it has been proven scientifically that the best approach to ward off infection is to keep the time from the boil to active fermentation to as small a degree as possible. 4. Better hot/cold break, less time in contact with hop-gak & troob Again, it's a control factor. Further, I believe it has an impact on the flavor profile for my brews. While by day I'm a software engineer and manager, by degree and desire I'm a scientist at heart. Controlling all the variables as much as possible is important to me. If I do have 'an emergency' while brewing I will cut corners, but I also log what occurred so I can do my best to prevent it in the future. If I recall correctly, Jack first coined the phrase 'momily', which when I first read it several years ago made me laugh *and* made me think. Both of which are good things! I do have a problem with assertions that things are bad 'because most people do it that way' though. Questioning existing practice is paramount to steps forward everywhere, but it should be done in such a way as to try an understand existing practice and its rationale. Just telling someone they are being obsessive, compulsive or wasting their time is a good way to make sure they won't give you the time of day, much less listen to you or give what you have to say any credence. If there's solid data to debunk a long held 'myth' here on the Digest, please do post it. There is a *wealth* of experience and information available here for reasonable educated discussion. My apologies to anyone who feels I've wasted bandwidth or am being to harsh. Part of my job is manager of a Quality Assurance team, and battling the "Because we've always done it that way" mind set is something I do on a daily basis. As a result perhaps I'm a little over-sensitive to such situtations. :-) -Matth Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 09:42:28 -0400 From: John Penn <john_penn at spacemail.jhuapl.edu> Subject: All Grain Help Subject: Time:8:56 AM OFFICE MEMO All Grain Help Date:6/2/98 What me worry? Got a 5 gallon Rubbermaid cooler from Walmart web page, couldn't find it locally at Home Depot or Walmart. Also had trouble with the bulkhead feed through and I didn't want to drill the cooler. Checked out the local hardware store and Hechinger home store and found an extra Gott Cooler spigot at the hardware store in Clarksville, MD. For now I bought the extra spigot, drilled out the push mechanism and use it merely as a feed through with clear tubing on the inside and outside. The inside piece of tubing is short and feeds into a 1/2" copper manifold. I was afraid my drill holes were too big (5/32"?) but no stuck sparge on my first attempt. I may improve the feedthrough and I plan to make the manifold look more like the one on Ken Schwartz' web page. For now I have a rectangle based on Ken's measurements (thanks for the web page Ken). I also need a means to control the flow. I thought I could use gravity but that merely controlled the flow from fast to very fast. So, I plan to use a hose clamp next time to control the flow until I find and adapt some kind of ball valve. Anyway, to the recipe and questions. Red Knight Ale (4 gallons) 1/2 # chocolate malt 1/2 # 40L crystal 1/2 # torrified wheat 5# 2 row amer. malt 1# English Pale malt 1# honey 8 HBUs bittering hops (N.B. I think 60 min boil) 1oz Cascade (finish) 1qt starter of 1728 Wyeast Scottish Ale I had planned on about 1.5qts/# of malt but I started around 135-140F at 1 qt/# and added hot water. I added more boiling water than I expected and overshot my temp so that it seemed that I had more water than I wanted but I'm not sure how much volume the grains should take up so I don't know how close I was. Ques: How much volume does the grain occupy per lb.? The temp went to 158F using my floating thermometer--haven't calibrated it but I hope its close. Only dropped about 3F in an hour! I also did not measure the pH, I'm hoping that my water is pretty neutral in Eldersburg, MD and I use a charcoal filter to remove chlorine. Let it all sit for an hour and sparged with 4-5 qts. of hot water. Less than I had intended and I got maybe ~3.2 gallons of runnoff. My sparge was a little fast and I had trouble in getting ahead of the sparge water such that I forced some bubbles in my runoff tube several times (hopefully not enough to worry about HSA but something I need to try and improve on next time). I recirculated the first couple of cups of runoff but realized the "clear runoff rule" is hard to follow when you make a dark beer on your first attempt (DUH?). Proceeded to boil, etc and I wasn't that careful about my measurements but it appeared that I got about 150pts total out of the grains for about 20 ppg or so. With the honey, I'm expecting something like 4 gallons at 1.047-1.050 OG for an average strength beer with about 35 IBUs or so. Ques: What should I do next time to improve my efficiency? I realize that I need to control the sparge better. Crush was by homebrew store and looks reasonable. I overshot my temp so I guess a little lower like 153F might improve the efficiency. Looking for easy ideas first, don't want to get too complicated yet. I didn't get too much trub so the malts must be farely modified. My one concern is a layer of large bubbles and kind of milky looking film across the fermenter. I hope its not mold but I plan to taste/smell it tonight when I bottle it. I've never used torrified wheat, homebrew store owner recommended it in place of malted wheat for head retention, so I'm hoping the film is just something peculiar to torrified wheat plus I'm fairly new to all grain and I'm not sure what to expect. Ques: Any ideas on the film? Not worried yet but wondering. Ques: Any advice on improving my methods, etc? TIA John Penn Eldersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:47:17 -0400 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: My Aeration Method---Comments please In a previous HBD, Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> said: >2. Aerate the living whatsis out of it when you do so. >Use an oxygen stone if you've got one. The next most effective method >seems to be pouring between two food-grade 5-gallon pails. I recommend >this as fast, easy and effective, even if you will then funnel it into a >carboy. Least suggested: put wort into a 5-gallon pail, submerge your >head, blow bubbles. I am starting to get concerned with the aeration method I have been using. Since I have been getting some flavors I don't like, and wide variations in head retention etc., I am reviewing all my methods. I am looking for advice/comments on the following aeration method: Cool wort in brewpot to desired temp. Place brewpot on counter. Place fermenter on floor. Siphon from brewpot to fermenter holding the output end of the siphon as high as possible. (I use 5/8 in. ID plastic tubing to get a high flow rate and lots of splash.) Top off the fermenter using the sprayer hose of the kitchen sink. (I adjust the temp as needed.) [end of procedure] When I do this, I get a very large "head" of foam in the fermenter. Maybe 3 or 4 inches thick. Subsequent fermentation seems to go well. My main concern is, recently I have seen comments that the "head" I am creating now is "using up" components needed for the head in the finished product. Is this true? Any other potential faults with this method? Thanks. Pete Calinski PCalinski at iname.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 08:10:22 -0600 From: "Lee, Ken" <KLee at resdata.com> Subject: Molasses Suppliers? My kids have been asking for about a year now for me to make up a batch of rootbeer. I found a scratch recipe in one of the papazian (sp?) books. Even with the unhealthy ingredients, it smells incredible. The one item I can't seem to find at a reasonable price is molasses. The recipe calls for three (3) quarts. Does anyone know where to buy molasses in that quantity at a reasonable price? Thanks (Thanks from the kids too!) Ken Lee klee at resdata.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 08:58:01 -0500 (CDT) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: "debunk" = calling someone a liar Greetings to all. A couple of people have recently commented on "debunking" concerns about overnight cooling of wort. Using that term, you're calling people liars. Please stop. It isn't "bunk," it just isn't 100% certain that you will get DMS buildup, hot-side aeration, or an infection. If you don't get problems, that's good for you -- your system, your methods. It would be worthwhile to compare notes and see what you are doing or not doing, compared to people who HAVE had these problems. We try to get new brewers to use the surest ways for the first few times. I suppose this sometimes gets too zealous. I agree we don't want to "scare away" new brewers with a bunch of useless work. But I can't imagine what would scare people away faster than brewing a batch and having it taste like garbage. It may only happen occasionally, but for many newbies, a bad first or second batch would be enough. They should at least be aware that they MIGHT get problems if they cool overnight, and be aware of what OTHER steps they can take to reduce the risk, if they need to do so. Results are ALWAYS variable. For instance, many good brews have added sugars of various kinds. Yet the "Mr. Beer" kits come out cidery and thin because of the sugar, and they convince people that home-brewed beer is bad. How many new comrades have we lost to Mr. Beer? Best, Sam Mize - -- Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net (home email) -- Team Ada Fight Spam - see http://www.cauce.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998 00:30:37 +1100 From: Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: Fullers Summer Ale > On a more important note, has anyone tasted Fuller's Summer Ale? [I think > that's the complete name] Perhaps someone with some info can explain why this > beer has the most overpowering butterscotch flavor ever encountered in a beer. > The aroma and flavor are so strongly butterscotch that I thought it was > intentional, and I reread the label to see if butterscotch flavor was a listed > ingredient. > Any ideas? I had this beer in Southampton and it was a pleasant pale ale, and I certainly don't remember any butterscotch notes.. - -- Brad McMahon Adelaide, South Australia brad at sa.apana.org.au PGP Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 11:10:06 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com Subject: Debunking myths / Splitting the brew day Hi all, Ira writes: "As I thanked Randy, I now would like to thank Jack. I don't even own a wort chiller and have never artifically (sic) cooled my wort. And like Jack, no problemo. It gets me to thinking that what this list could use is a thread for debunking long held beliefs about brewing that have no basis in practice. I'm not suggesting we stop paying attention to sanitation, but I sure think a good area for debunking would be in the field of all that attention to sterilization." Back to me: Well, some folks have finally figured it out. You don't need to cool your wort quickly, nor do you need to pitch a lot of yeast and aerate the wort. Heck, if you want your beer to be ready in 3 days just ferment it at 87F (32C). All that stuff I've been writing for the past few years has been a ruse to confuse people so they would give up brewing. This has given me less competition at contests. Forgive the sarcasm, but to think that you can "debunk" the learning of THOUSANDS of years of brewing is pretty arrogant. Yes, commercial brewers just LOVE to waste money by doing things like force-cooling their wort and buying railcar loads of cleaning chemicals. It keeps people employed throughout several industries. That in turn helps the US economy. They're such patriots! The reasons for rapid cooling of wort and most of the other stuff discussed here are well known in the scientific literature. Sure, you may make PASSABLE beer if you are cutting corners, but the more corners you cut the worse your beer will be. If you are happy with your beer, great. It is important to at least know how to do things the correct way, though. Beginners reading this digest should know that they can improve their beers with techniques Ira and Jack would like to regard as "myths." It is also important to note that what one person considers to be good beer, another may not. Beer evaluation takes practice and training. Unless you know and respect the person who is describing how a beer tastes, take their opinion with a HUGE grain of salt (that goes for you folks reading my perceptions of beer; most of you wouldn't know me if you tripped over me). If you want to investigate myths, at least talk about slightly controversial topics like "no sparge brewing vs. decoction," or "the necessity of protein rests with modern malts." Rapid wort cooling and sanitation are well established as necessary to making the best quality beer. ----------------------------------------- A quick note on the idea of splitting the brew day by mashing and sparging on day one and boiling, etc. on day two: I've tried this courageous technique a bunch of times, and have posted to the HBD about it (search the archives; sometime last year). In short: bring the wort to 170F (77C) or higher to ensure that it won't sour overnight (unless you want it to sour). I don't recommend putting hops in it. When you wake up the next morning, there will be an amazing amount of hot break at the bottom of the kettle, and the wort will reek of DMS. This is OK, though, because now you are going to boil it (which will drive off the DMS.) The only problem I have noticed with this method is that light colored beers seem to come out a bit darker than my goal. I have never done a side-by-side experiment, though, so maybe it was actually a recipe problem (any others want to chime in?) If this darkening is real, it has 2 possible causes: oxidation of the hot wort and/or keeping the wort hot for that long. 15 gallons of liquid in a covered stainless kettle takes quite some time to cool down. If I heat the wort to 200F (93C), it is usually at about 140F (60C) the next morning. (NOTE: another good reason to use a wort chiller. It saves time.) The other problem I could envision with this method is that the hot break may actually redissolve into the wort during the boil. Don't know if this is the case, though. You could always take the wort off the break before boiling. Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:37:57 -0400 From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreidenbach at nctm.org> Subject: Re: Safale OK -- Paul and Mat are raving about the stuff. Is it widely available in the States? If not --- where can I look if I want to give it a try? Thanks, - --Danny Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:41:48 -0700 From: Michael Rose <mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net> Subject: debunking good sanitation Ira Plotinsky writes, > It gets me to thinking that what this list could > use is a thread for debunking long held beliefs about brewing that > have no basis in practice. I'm not suggesting we stop paying attention to > sanitation, but I sure think a good area for debunking would be in > the field of all that attention to sterilization. I have had any > number of emergencies occur in brewing where I simply had to either > break sanitation practice or throw out 5 gallons of beer. I have > always opted for the former and I have yet to lose a batch to > infection. I know it can happen and probably will sometime, but is > it worth the obsessive-compulsive rituals we are all going through? Depth of sanition practice and *open fermentaton* in *my opinion* are both dependent on the time period for the beer to be consumed and the storage of the beer. If a brewer crash chills on the 7th or 8th day and plans on drinking the beer within a month, then a cat coughing up hair balls into the wort isn't going to hurt it. But, if a brewer has a long secondary and has to keep the bottles warm to condition it and won't be drinking it for several months, then he better be good with his sanitation practice. Sorry for any confusion about mixing up _Practical Brewer_ and _The Handbook of Brewing Science_ They are two completely different books. Heres the page for Practical Brewer http://www.mbaa.com/education.html It's the download page so you don't have to run all around the website. Note that you are downloading scaned, not text pages. Download and printing times are long and print quality is poor. Michael Rose Riverside, CA mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 98 14:52:25 CDT From: jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: Iodophor in beer A friend had some Iodophor solution sucked back up a blowoff hose into a fermenting beer and is afraid of poisoning himself. I think that if there was enough Iodophor to poison him it would also kill the yeast, stopping the fermentation. My opinion is that if the beer ferments out it will be safe to drink, albeit with the possibility of off flavor. Am I right or is there any danger? At what concentration is Iodophor dangerous to humans? John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 13:10:05 -0700 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros at bigfoot.com> Subject: hop flavor, tasting Chas Peterson writes: >While not scientific, my brewing >logs do reveal that: > >- First Wort Hopping (FWH) contributes additional flavor, but not much >aroma to the finished beer >- Steeping hops post boil also contributes substantial flavor >characteristics to the beer (maybe even more flavor than aroma after >fermentation) Makes sense to me. I thought the point of FWH was hop flavor, not aroma. You achieved the hop flavor part. Dry hopping is the best way to get hop aroma. The only further question is how much bitterness does FWH give you, relative to your standard bittering hop additions? ******** Samuel Mize wrote: >> From: Robert Parker <parker at parker.eng.ohio-state.edu> >>I'd like to gather tasting notes on a relatively brief (5-10) list >> of beers from those among you that excel in beer evaluation. > >Your problem here is that shipping can have a tremendous impact on >flavors. For example, I'm told that Corona is a good example of its style >at the brewery, but by the time it hits the USA it's gotten so >light-skunked that places stick lime wedges in the bottle necks when they >serve them. Heat and time take a big toll too. And, these erratic flaws >are some of the flavors that you want to learn to identify, for judging. Also, remember that the sensitivity of different people for different flavors varies quite a lot. Add that to the variability in beers, as Samuel mentioned, and what have you got? A better bet is to get together with a local homebrew club or local judges and taste with them. - Bryan Bryan Gros gros at bigfoot.com Oakland, CA Visit the new Draught Board homebrew website: http://www.valhallabrewing.com/~thor/dboard/index.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 17:36:27 -0700 From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> Subject: Does Wyeast 1338 ever stop? Hello all. About 12 days ago I make an Altbier (O.G. 1.048) using #1338. It still has about 1" of foam, and is making CO2. Will be old(er) and gray before the primary is done? Anybody else seen this? Hans E. Hansen hansh at teleport.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:29:05 EDT From: AlannnnT at aol.com Subject: the AHA nationals BIG mess in the NE Not a knock on anyone at the AHA, but if your interested in the AHA Nationals First Round results from Lowell Mass., you may have a long wait. Here's what happened; Over 550 entries were received. The top number of judges present at one time was 14. About 350 of the beers were judged. More than 200 remain unjudged. The AHA is scrambling to find a suitable place to hold the remainder of the competition judging. Here are The Good Guys; Brian Rezac from the AHA, who did ALL the work collating 550 entries. [wew] Mill City Brewing who hosted and was extra generous. Some unnamed hero with a large copier. The judges who came, especially the out of towners. The sole judge from the Boston Wort Processors. The bad guys; [I gonna get in trouble here] The Boston Wort Processors who sent a reported 100-plus entries but only one judge to the competition. Reports from numerous sources say that the Boston based homebrew club, which has scores of judges in its ranks, holds a grudge against the AHA, and advised its members at the general meeting, NOT to judge for the AHA event. Please, if this info can be challenged, please do so here in this forum. The AHA must bear the ultimate responsibilty for leaving the competition in the hands of the 'locals' with little or no oversight. They choose poorly and all the egg will be on their faces. The Boston Wort Processors must see that their actions, while somewhat injurious to the AHA, really hurt the hobby and the individual brewers who make up the community of homebrewers. Petty feuds with the AHA shouldn't stand in the way of having a good quality, fun competition. Next year, a new group, headed by BJCP judge John Nagle, is hoping to take over the reponsibility. If you live in the Northeast, now is the time to think about how you can help. I know I am. The postscript; Your scoresheets are NOT in the mail. Best Brewing, Alan Talman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:54:23 -0700 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: re: mash/sparge one day, boil the next >Now that I'm done ranting, I noticed that Danie asks about the long contact >with copper. I always had mine in stainless. Anyone out there with a >comment on long copper contact? What about aluminum? Here's an idea. Get a heavy duty (thick) plastic bag and line your boil pot. When you finish collecting the wort it won't be sitting around in copper or aluminum overnight. In the morning you simply pull the bag out of the pot and pretso :-) John Schnupp, N3CNL Colchester, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
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