HOMEBREW Digest #2830 Tue 22 September 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Easy Keg? (Bowden Wise)
  FAQ's and hot water tanks (Steffan Gay)
  Re: Weld-Free Keg Conversion (Clint Thessen)
  Re: Hop Museums ("Mark Nelson")
  vanilla beans ("Penn, John")
  Weld Free Conversion (SBireley)
  VT Breweries (Paul Brian)
  Guinness Replication (Dan Listermann)
  Altrageous (Matthew Arnold)
  re: Alt hopping (David Kerr)
  More on Uerige and malts ("Jim Busch")
  lye/NaOH ("Jim Busch")
  Jeff Renner's Address (Thomas S Barnett)
  Why is my AA so high? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Honey/Lye ("A. J. deLange")
  3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off (Stephen Johnson)
  Fusels vs amino acid levels ("Steve Alexander")
  CPBF ideas ("Bryan L. Gros")
  shipping beer bottles for competitions.. (Badger Roullett)
  re: Vanilla Beans in Beer (Mark Tumarkin)
  Homebrewers  at  the GABF ("Brian Rezac")
  Gott (Rubbermaid) cooler mash tun (Corky Courtright)
  Winter Lager recipe (Frank O'Bleness (ST))

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 00:57:51 -0400 From: Bowden Wise <wiseb at acm.org> Subject: Easy Keg? I was wondering what the easiest way to keg is? I don't want to get into a elaborate keg set up. I am planning on going to an football game in few weeks and wanted to bring some homebrew. Brining a keg might be easier than a case of bottles. So what's the simplest way to get into kegging? - -- - -------------------------------------------------------------------- G. Bowden Wise Computer Science Dept, Rensselaer Polytechnic Inst, Troy, NY 12180 E-mailto:wiseb at acm.org WWW: http://www.cs.rpi.edu/~wiseb/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 22:07:53 -0700 From: Steffan Gay <smg at kendra.com> Subject: FAQ's and hot water tanks Having been lurking for only about a month, and having not seen any discussion regarding the use of old hot water tanks, AND having an old hot water tank lurking in my backyard, this here homebrewer wonders if this silly idea has ever crossed the collective mind and whether it has ever been tried... Can you imagine a gas or electric hot water tank being used as a brewing vessel? What kind of steel is used for hot water tanks, and would it be amenable to boiling wort? One could cut the off the top half and use the bottom half (with the heating element in the bottom, with the thermostat set to boiling). Has anyone tried this kinda thing? With my typical rotten luck, it has, and the poor sod who tried it died with his knowledge intact. >sigh< Public posting of reply appreciated, private e-mail okay, too. Thanks, all. Steffan smg at kendra.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 06:38:57 -0500 From: Clint Thessen <cthessen at mdc.com> Subject: Re: Weld-Free Keg Conversion Rich is looking for a no-weld solution to his 1/2-barrel conversion problem. Just to throw in my $.02. I looked at alot of options including Jack's EasyMasher (tm) for converting my kegs. I finally decided that I wanted an easymash system but couldn't find the brass spigot that Jack uses or anything similar. However, what I did find was bulkhead fitting made by Swageloc. I bought the brass, 1/2 in version for $6 a piece. It works like a champ and as Jack said yesterday... tightening the nut sufficiently will create a "water"-tight seal. There should be several distributors of Swageloc stuff throughout the country. I went and bought mine at St. Louis Valve and Fitting. They also make stainless versions, about twice as expensive though. Don't be scared of brass. You can de-lead per John Palmer's procedure. If you can find it just search the HBD for John Palmer and Brass. You can learn the whole sorted story of brass usage. Hoppy Brewing! Clint Thessen O'Fallon, MO (Just west of McGuireland USA) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:50:48 -0400 From: "Mark Nelson" <menelson at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Hop Museums Bob wrote: >It is an excellent time to vacation in Eastern Washington. >For anyone else thinking of going, be sure to stop at the >only Hop museum in the world. FYI, there's also a hop museum in Poperinge, in West Flanders, Belgium. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:13:59 -0400 From: "Penn, John" <PennJE1 at SPACEMSG.JHUAPL.edu> Subject: vanilla beans In regards to sanitizing those vanilla beans... I've never used vanilla beans but I think this will work. Try soaking the vanilla beans in a small jar with some vodka. If you want some aroma, pitch after fermentation is mostly done or if you don't need the aroma, pitch into the primary. I used a little vodka once to sanitize some mint leaves which I soaked for a few days then pitched after the primary fermentation was over. The aroma was wonderful in the jar of mint leaves but ended up too diluted in a 5 gallon batch. Next time I'd use more mint leaves. Vodka should work for just about any kind of spice as one possible solution. John Penn Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 98 10:16:55 EST From: SBireley at renex.com Subject: Weld Free Conversion We have several kegs that were converted using standard brass and stainless pipe fittings. The major drawback of these fittings is the tapered thread on the male fitting. To get around this, I put the male fitting in my drill press and filed off all by 4 threads of the male fitting. It then screwed all of the way into the female threaded fitting (with a little force). I used teflon tape to seal the threads and a little food grade silicone to seal the connection at the keg wall. It has lasted many batches on all three kegs in the system with no leaks. Steve B. Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:44:59 -0400 From: Paul Brian <pbrian at ctc-fund.com> Subject: VT Breweries A couple of digests ago, someone incorrectly mentioned Catamount Brewery being in White River Junction. They moved to a new location in Windsor, VT, about 15 miles south of White River Jct. on Rt 5. While their new facilities definately deserves a visit, it's not nearly as "unique" as their old brewery building in White River and looks a lot like the other two major microbreweries in the state, Long Trail and Otter Creek. Don't go to Catamount hungry. They don't serve food. Long Trail Brewery (I think the official name is Mountan Brewers) is located about 15 miles west of White River Junction on Rt. 4. They have a great deck overlooking a river where you can order beer/food (more beer) etc. In keeping with the recent Alt thread, their flagship beer, Long Trail Ale, is self described as being modeled after the Alt beers of Germany. I've heard/read (don't remeber which) that it isn't really brewed to style but it's still an excellent beer. If you're lucky enough to be in the Middlebury area, the Otter Creek Brewery is a lot like Catamount. They have a tour and a gift shop, but no food. They have the added advantage of being in Middlebury, which is a beautiful Vt. town to visit. All these breweries are first-class operations that brew wonderful beer. I highly recomend them all as destination points on your next trip to Vermont, which is especially beautiful this time of year. And don't forget to stop a McNeil's Brewpub in Brattleboro on your way home(if your coming from the south like me) This brewer rightly deserves the numerous medals he's won and gets my vote for best craft brewer on the East coast. Cheers, Paul Brian Stamford, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:44:29 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Guinness Replication Michael O. Hanson asks about how to reproduce the lactic "tang" that is uniquie to Guinness. This past Thursday at the Bloatarian Brewing League meeting we took the opportunity of our new location to brew a batch. ( well actually we just mashed and lautered due to time constraints - I took the batch back to the shop for the boil the next day ) We used Graham Wheeler's reciepe for Guinness except that I added 3% Weyermann's acidulated malt to the grist in an attempt to duplicate or, more correctly, simulate tha "tang." This morning I took a taste. While it is still frightfully young, it did show a great deal of promise. I can't waite to do a back to back tasting and decide where to move things. Dan Listermann Check out our site at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:49:22 GMT From: marnold at ez-net.com (Matthew Arnold) Subject: Altrageous Gordon Strong wrote: >I've enjoyed the altbier discussion and hope to make one when it gets a >bit cooler. Thanks to Al K for sharing his recipe, but one question: >how long and at what temperature do you cold condition? Ed Westemeier >had previously recommended to me that a minimum of 8 weeks at no more >than 40F was proper. I'm inclined to follow this, but am interested in >more data points. I must admit that I don't understand why one would say _eight weeks_ minimum "lagering" for a 1.048 ale. I realize the point is to reduce / minimize esters, but at that temperature even the hardiest ale yeast is going to go to Yeasty Valhalla (or happy-nappy land anyway). Two months seems, IMO, to be overkill. Is there something I'm missing? Al, did you ask the good folks (volk?) at ZU how long / at what temperature they "lagered"? Ray Daniels in "Designing Great Beers" suggests "lagering" alts/koelsches at 41-50F (5-10C) to slow the yeast but not put it out of commission. Thoughts? FWIW (probably not much), in the NHC examples he cited, the average length of time for lagering an alt was 41 days at a bone-chilling average of 35F. Then the good Dr. Brown spake: >Since the HBD PAE was such an interesting project (Thanks to John V.), >perhaps, what with all the interest in Altbier, maybe our next project >should be to create one. Sounds like a blast to me. Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to organize such a massive endeavor, but I'd surely be interested in it! Matt - ----- Webmaster, Green Bay Rackers Homebrewers' Club http://www.rackers.org info at rackers.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:47:12 -0400 From: David Kerr <dkerr at semc.org> Subject: re: Alt hopping George de Piro comments: > I wonder if better results might be more easily achieved by using a > higher alpha hop, such as Perle. > I used 4 oz Perle in my 10 Gal batch of Altbier (shooting for ~55 IBU). I couldn't discern any hop flavor/aroma as it went into the secondary, just a good bite of bitterness. Thanks again to AlK for the grain bill suggestions. Dave Kerr Needham, MA "I think the time is right" - Cal "take me out of the ballgame" Ripken Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:34:10 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: More on Uerige and malts I went back and read the label on my empty bottle of Zum Uerige: 4.5% ABV They also clearly indicate the use of caramalz and roastmalz as well as malted barley. I would not consider any of the Altstadt beers to be "big", a 4.5% beer is the classic session beer strength found in Helles and Bohemian Pils. As for the dunkelwiezen thread and dark wheat malts, Ive been using caraWheat malts for some time in Weizenbocks and there are several grades of darkness available. From the discussion here I gather it is more of a wheat malt made like Munich malts as opposed to a caraWheat? Prost! (to another Oktoberfest season.....) Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:36:27 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: lye/NaOH Im a real fan of caustics but if you are concerned with the safety aspects try out PBW. I like to use both in my brewhouse, soaking the mash screens in PBW until the next time I brew obviates any scrubbing which makes me a happy brewer! Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:17:25 -0500 (CDT) From: Thomas S Barnett <barnets at mail.auburn.edu> Subject: Jeff Renner's Address Hello all, This question needs to be asked for those of us who have only recently begun reading HBD: Where does Jeff Renner live? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:28:24 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: Why is my AA so high? I just kegged a 10 gallon all grain Ale brewed with Wyeast American II. Mashed at about 150 with a single infusion and fermented at about 65F. The Apparent Attenuation was 86. Any ideas why? Rick Pauly Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:35:18 -0500 From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Honey/Lye A few comments on honey: The yeast which are nomally found in honey are held in stasis by the high osmotic pressure of the sugar when the moisture content is less than 18% by weight. Most packers will not, for this reason, accept honey at a higher moisture content and this means that honey you buy will most probably be at or below 18%. The remaining (82%) of the weight is mostly sugars. While actual compositions vary average values are 38.4% fructose, 31% glucose, 7.2% maltose and 1.5% sucrose. Much of the sugar in nectar is sucrose but this is largely inverted by enzymes in the bee's pharangyal gland secretion (OK, saliva). Nevertheless, the balance is nearly always towards fructose and the average numbers show this. Thus, in terms of its fermentables, honey resembles the invert sugars used in some European brewing. For those who wish to measure honey by volume, the specific gravity of honey with an 18% mositure content is 1.4171 grams/mL and at 15% moisture content, 1.4350. Thus, for example, 1L of 18% moisture content honey contains approximately (0.82)(1.4171)(1000) = 1162 grams of sugar. As a cup is, I think, 236 mL a cup would contain (0.82)(1.4171)(236) = 274 grams (about 0.6 Lb). More information is available from http://www.nhb.org/foodtech/tgloss.html, the National Honey Board's web site, from which I got these numbers. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * WRT lye, the most important issue discussed here, so important that I think it deserves mention again, is protection of the eyes. One of the most insidious things about lye is that it anaesthesizes the corneas so that a brewer who has had small droplets (splashed, sprayed or whatever) into his eyes may be unaware of this until substantial damage is done. Hot lye is about the slickest thing out there for removing proteinaceous gloop (only thing that beats it is chromic acid), it's readily available and it's inexpensive. It's especially effective in hot water and so the temptation to dump it into hot water is great. When it dissolves, considerable heat is evolved and so, if the water is hot enough to start, there is potential danger that the added heat will make it boil. Always protect your eyes and, if mixing in a flask, for example, point the mouth of the flask away from you when adding lye. Drano contains lye and aluminum turnings which react with the lye to produce hydrogen gas with the intent that the bubbling action mechanically loosen the stuff in the drain that you are trying to get rid of. I can't think of any reason not to use products like Drano (unless they contain stuff to make them smell nice and I think some do) but the basic composition of them should make it clear that they, nor any other product containing lye, should be used with aluminum ware. Straight lye from the hardware store is prpbably cheaper. Dave B wrote concerning bleach: >Care with this substance must also be used as it is also an oxidizer It wasn't quite clear from the context (at least to me) whether "this substance" referred to bleach or the lye it contaims. It is the hypochlorite in bleach which is an oxidizing agent and it is that very property of it which makes it an effective germicide. Note that its effectiveness is somewhat diminished at the high pH of the lye-containing solution in which it typically sold (as household bleach) but in this form it is most stable. Dilution (out of the jug it contains about 55 grams of chlorine per liter) to typical strength usually lowers the pH enough that it is effective at its job as applied. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Measurement of the amount of reducing sugars in beer/wort does have a place in brewing. I think I've mentioned before that the ASBC Methods of Analysis include two methods for doing this. One of them uses the same chemistry as the C*******t. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:38:18 -0500 From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu> Subject: 3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off The Music City Brewers are proud to announce: What: Third Annual Music City Brew-Off When: Saturday, October 24, 1998 Where: Boscos Nashville Brewery, C/o Music City Brewers 1805 21st Ave. S. Nashville, TN 37212 Who: contact Steve Johnson (615-327-4100) Or Chuck Bernard (615-902-9177) E-mail: johnsons at uansv5.vanderbilt.edu bernardch at mindspring.com For additional information, see our webpage at http://www.theporch.com/~homebrew We will be accepting entries at Boscos Nashville Brewery in all of the 1998 AHA style categories and subcategories beginning September 28th. Entry deadline is October 12th. Events will include: 1) Welcome reception on Friday, Oct. 23, for club members, judges, stewards, and competition sponsors featuring our Special Guest for the weekend, Al Korzonas (author, regular contributor to the HomeBrew Digest, and other brewing publications), potluck dinner, and plenty of brews from the Music City Brewers (including some of that now famous "Skypeck Imperial <insert name here>"). 2) Competition judging Saturday morning at Boscos, with lunch provided for judges and stewards. 3) Best of Show round immediately after lunch, with BOS prize an opportunity to brew a special recipe with Greg Davis of Market Street Brewery, 134 2nd Ave. N., Nashville. 4) Awards ceremony, including lots of door prizes for spectators, as well as the crowning of the Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year and Tennessee Homebrew Club of the Year. 5) Pub crawl Saturday evening, featuring some of the local brewpubs and taprooms in the downtown Nashville area (We will provide the transportation to and from Boscos for a $5 fee; judges and other competition staff free) 6) Sunday morning "Brunch with Al", featuring a presentation by Al Korzonas and plenty of homecooked brunch items (Steve's Malted pancakes, sausage, baked apples, hashbrowns, etc.) ($5 fee) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:23:58 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fusels vs amino acid levels Al Korzonas writes ... >Steve writes: >>AlK points out correctly that fusel alcohol production by yeast drops at both >>very low and very high amino acid levels. >Nay, nay... I said it *INCREASES* at both very low and very high amino >acid levels! Must have been a typo. In that case I have to respectfully disagree. T.Ayrapaa (put an umlaut over all the vowels) published some graphs and a tentative explanation in Proc. EBC Conv., Brussels, 1963. Reproduced in part in 'The Yeasts', vol 3, Academic Press. Isobutanol for example starts at about 20ppm when the FAN level is extremely low (~20ppm). It increases to ~70ppm at a FAN level of ~250ppm, then declines to ~20ppm at FAN levels of 500ppm and above. Similarly for Phenyl-ethanol and amyl alcohols, tho the peak levels of the alcohol varied from FAN of ~100ppm to 250ppm. These results were extended to studies of the impact of the individual amino acids levels and fusels by Ayrapaa in JIB 71, 1965, pp341 - which I have not read myself - tho' I've read of the results. SteveA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:52:34 -0700 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros at bigfoot.com> Subject: CPBF ideas Steve wrote in HBD #2829: <snipped interesting description of hands-free CPBF base that I didn't quite get> >I bottled a pale ale which was carbonated to about >2.4 volumes, around 13 psi at 40F (numbers are >approximate here), and I started at about 5 psi or >so. I got some significant foaming, so I decided >to RAISE the pressure as an experiment. I raised >it to 10 psi, and the foaming was somewhat less. >Then I raised it to 20 psi, and had virtually NO >FOAM whatsoever.... > >Has anyone else tried raising the pressure? I'd be >interested in hearing about your results. I >imagine it would be hard to keep a traditional >hand held cp filler in the bottle at 20 psi. I do this, and it works for me. My "problem" is that I have never really read directions for filling bottles. I do what seem obvious (to me). So, if the beer is under 15 psi, then you need to be sure to have 15psi in the bottle and the keg, to equal the pressures, and then the CO2 should stay in solution (where you want it). Looking forward to seein the pictures of your device... - Bryan Bryan Gros gros at bigfoot.com Oakland, CA Visit the new Draught Board homebrew website: http://www.valhallabrewing.com/~thor/dboard/index.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:56:53 -0700 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: shipping beer bottles for competitions.. Greeting Beer Boyo's Badger here with another question, yes I gots lots of 'em.... There are a couple of competitions coming up, and I was thinking of FINALLY entering one or two to see how my precious beers are doing. My freinds love it, and i have won a couple of Brewing Competitions in the SCA. Now I would like to try the modern ones. I searched the HBD Archives but could not find a clear answer for this one. How is the best way to ship bottles to competitions, on a budget. I have access to tones of bubble wrap, but would rather not buy expensive beer bottle shipping boxes. Can someone who has done it, tell me how to pack these so they have survive the trip? *************************************************** Brander Roullett aka Badger Homepage: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger In the SCA: Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven "It had to be a linguistics professor who said that it's man's ability to use language that makes him the dominant species on the planet. That may be. But I think there's one other thing that separates us from animals. We aren't afraid of vacuum cleaners." --Jeff Stilson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:20:09 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: Vanilla Beans in Beer Eric Tepe asks about using vanilla beans in a holiday: >My idea is to use them in the secondary of a holiday >porter. I was also wondering if the inside of the bean is sterile and >if it is not how I would sanitize it. I must preface this by saying I have never used vanilla beans myself. However, a friend brewed a very nice vanilla stout using a home-made vanilla extract. He simply crushed the beans into small pieces and soaked them in vodka. I don't recall the exact amount of beans, but he used a very small bottle so there wasn't room for much (not to mention that vanilla beans are very expensive - sort of a limiting factor on its own). He got a nice hint of vanilla flavor - which was what he wanted, not an overpowering amount. I think when people use extracts it is really easy to use too much. If you didn't want to do an extract, you might break up the beans and soak them in alcohol briefly to sanitize them if you worry about just putting them in the secondary. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:04:36 -0600 From: "Brian Rezac" <brian at aob.org> Subject: Homebrewers at the GABF Fellow Homebrewers, The GABF is fast approaching and once again the AHA will be hosting a Homebrewers Gathering at Falling Rock Tap House on Saturday evening, Oct. 3rd, following the last session of the GABF. (Paul Gatza wanted to name it, We're Homebrewers and We Haven't Had Enough Beer Yet Gathering.) Here are the details: WHAT: HOMEBREWERS GATHERING at THE GABF WHEN: Saturday, October 3, 1998 - 8:00 PM WHERE: Falling Rock Tap House, 1919 Blake St., Denver, CO HOW: Get a ticket from Paul Gatza or Brian Rezac at any GABF session (while supplies last) or just show up at Falling Rock. (HINT: The tickets have directions to Falling Rock and can be redeemed for 1 pint of dedicated beer.) WHY: Because we're homebrewers and after five sessions of the Great American Beer Festival, we still haven't had enough beer yet. Also, just to celebrate that with all our differences we have something very special in common, the love of beer and brewing. WHO DO WE THANK: Chris Black, King, Falling Rock Tap House (I am going to get Chris to relate his now-famous Sledgehammer Incident.) Eric Wallace and Dick Doore, Lefthand Brewing Company, Longmont, Colorado for donating a keg of their award-winning Sawtooth. Derek Osborne, Brewer, BJ's Brewery, Boulder, Colorado for donating a keg of "whatever kind of beer you want." (I still have yet to choose.) Mark Tumarkin, who started it all last year by asking, "Any interest in having an HBD get-together at a nearby pub after one of the {GABF} sessions?" With a little more gray, Mark would be one good-looking homebrewer! LAST BUT NOT LEAST: There will be a gathering of hearing-impaired homebrewers at Falling Rock at 6 pm on the same night. They will be having a raffle after 8:00 PM to raise some funds. We encourage your participation and support of their worthy cause. PS: This year at the GABF, the AHA will be promoting the theme, If You Can Drink It, You Can Brew It! We will encourage GABF attendees to come to the AHA booth once they find a commercial beer that they enjoy. At the AHA booth we will have experienced homebrewers who will formulate a "best guess" recipe for the soon-to-be homebrewer to take to his local homebrew shop. If you're interested in helping out with this attempt to try to get more folks brewing, send me an email. Thanks for your time. See you at the GABF! Brian Rezac Membership Development Director American Homebrewers Association 736 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302 303 447-0816, ext. 121 brian at aob.org http://beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:22:02 -0700 From: Corky Courtright <corky at discover.net> Subject: Gott (Rubbermaid) cooler mash tun I'm about to take the plunge and go to all grain. I plan on using a Gott type cooler as a mash tun. I'm trying to decide if I should buy a 5 gallon or 10 gallon cooler to make my mash tun out of. How much grain (in pounds) can I mash in each? Is it worth the difference in price to go for the 10 gallon or do you think that I will I probably go to a different method for mashing if I step up to 10 gallon batches? What type of false bottom or screen do you recommend? Tnx, Corky Private email OK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:56:16 -0700 From: frank at metaflow.com (Frank O'Bleness (ST)) Subject: Winter Lager recipe I was wondering if anyone had a recipe for a winter lager (i.e. something along the lines of Sam Adams Winter Lager or similar). Thanks. Frank Return to table of contents
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