HOMEBREW Digest #2894 Mon 07 December 1998

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re: 240V service, I need a neutral ("John Watts")
  Woodruff (Eric.Fouch)
  MCAB II QE & QS Announcements ("Louis K. Bonham")
  re: P Mahoney/disapponitment (j miller)
  air/ O2 (Rick Lassabe)
  pronunciation web site (ensmingr)
  Large Cooler Question ("Colin K.")
  Beer & Homebrewing in Italy III (Rosalba e Massimo)
  Pronounciation of Puyallup (Brad Miller)
  In praise of bottle conditioning (was: Bottle conditioning as diacetyl rest) (MaltHound)
  Re: slamming the AHA and anyone else (John Adsit)
  Air in headspace (ThomasM923)
  Need help with sight glass (Al Franciosi)
  Help save my marriage!(Bob Fesmire Dgofus at aol.com) (DGofus)
  CO2 levels dependent on amount of headspace ("George De Piro")
  Parti-gyle v High gravity (Anderson)
  RE: 240 Wiring (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Hop utilization? (Bill Wible)
  o2 in headspace (Kim Thomson)

Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! ////// (This space free to a good competition) ////// NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow" Back issues are available via: HTML from... http://hbd.org Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the above.) JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:04:25 -0600 From: "John Watts" <watts at radiks.net> Subject: re: 240V service, I need a neutral > From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at far-tech.com> > Subject: re: 240V service, I need a neutral <big snip> > Yes, the water heater is kinda small and works poorly. > > I was planning on turning the hot water heater off while brewing (either > manually or by a built in relay to prevent my forgetting) so I wouldn't > overload the circuit. Have you thought about replacing the electric water heater with NG? That way you would have the circuit available all the time for brewing? > Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 10:04:13 -0600 > From: ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO <skotrat at wwa.com> > Subject: RE: A quiet milestone > <Snipped rant> Scott, how are we going to know what you really think if you keep holding back like this? :} Rgds John Watts watts at radiks.net Return to table of contents
Date: 4 Dec 1998 15:26:03 -0500 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: Woodruff Greetings! And especially to the guy who responded to me privately with all the info on Woodruff spices. Not you, Alan. Or you either, Ken. I am having digital problems with my inbasket (happy fingers) and your note got deleted. Could you get back to me again? Sorry about the "bandwidth", but at least I didn't repost 20 lines just to make an inane comment, only to get it rejected by the janitor because I used a false name from an unfamiliar address (good catch, Pat!), but I digress. Alan and Ken- I'll copy youse guys if I get the info back- it was good stuff. Now, back to the CAP Appreciation society for some real AOB/AHA bashing (Fasten your seat belts, it's gonna get bumpy) Eric Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 16:53:54 -0600 From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham at phoenix.net> Subject: MCAB II QE & QS Announcements The Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing Steering Committee is pleased to announce the list of Qualifying Styles and an updated list of Qualifying Events for the second MCAB, which will be held in 2000 in St. Louis and hosted by the St. Louis Brews. As detailed in the following list, there will again be 18 Qualifying Styles. Some of the styles are the same as for MCAB I (usually the most popular or competitive styles); others are "rotations" to other substyles within the same BJCP category. In a few instances we have opted to go with "broader" categories, especially in styles that have been less competitive. The BJCP has advised us that the numbering and descriptions for these categories may change somewhat when the new BJCP style guide is released later this year. So, without further ado, the QS's for MCAB II are: (1) Classic American / Pre-Prohibition (BJCP 1(D)). (2) Czech / Bohemian Pilsner (BJCP 2(A)). (3) Kolsch (BJCP 3(D)). (4) Strong Bitter (BJCP 4(C)). (5) Scotch & Scottish Ales (BJCP 5 (all substyles) & 11(B) (Strong Scotch Ale)) (6) APA (BJCP 6(B)) (7) California Common / Steam Beer (BJCP 6(C)). (8) IPA (BJCP 7) (9) Vienna (BJCP 9(B)) (10) American Brown (BJCP 10(D)) (11) Barleywine (BJCP 11(D)) (12) Imperial Stout (BJCP 11(C)) (13) European Dark Lager (BJCP 12 (all substyles)) (14) Hellesbock/Maibock (BJCP 13(B)) (15) Robust Porter (BJCP 14(A) (16) Sweet Stout (BJCP 15(A)) (17) Strong Belgian & French Ales (BJCP 17 (all substyles)). (18) Lambic (BJCP 18(B)) So, start your brew kettles!! Additionally, the following competitions are hereby invited to be Qualifying Events for MCAB II. (Some of them (marked with an "*") were announced previously and have accepted the MCAB's invitation.) Some of these competitions are repeating QE's, others are "rotations" between major contests in an area. We are still considering inviting another one or two QE's, and will announce any additions later. The QE's for MCAB II are: (1) Kansas City Brewmeisters Competition (February 1999)* (2) Boston Homebrew Competition (February 1999)* (3) Reggale and Dredhop (Boulder, Colorado -- February 1999) * (4) World Cup of Beer (California -- March 1999) * (5) Sunshine Challenge (Orlando -- May 1999). (6) BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff (Illinois - June 1999) (7) BUZZ-Off (Philadelphia - June 1999). (8) BURP Spirit of Free Beer (Virginia - June 1999). (9) Dixie Cup (Houston -- October 1999). (10) Oregon Homebrew Festival (Oregon -- date tba) (11) Canadian Masters (location and date tba) QE's wishing to formally accept this invitation should contact me. As before, QE's must agree to accept all legally-brewed entries, without regard to the brewer's place of residence or club affiliation, and must agree to feature all the MCAB QS's (preferably as stand-alone categories) and agree to use the BJCP style guides for them. QE's must also agree that the final round for each MCAB Qualifying Style must consist of 12 beers or less, and be judged by a panel consisting of at least two judges, at least one of which must be BJCP-qualified (i.e., Certified or better, Master or National preferred). (QE's are urged to try and have similar qualifications for all preliminary rounds in QS's.) QE's must agree to certify their results promptly to the MCAB. Details on these and other MCAB matters will be up soon on the MCAB website: hbd.org/mcab Stay tuned for more exciting details regarding MCAB I in Houston in February 1999. Louis K. Bonham MCAB Organizer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 15:25:08 -0800 From: j miller <cblues at canada.com> Subject: re: P Mahoney/disapponitment What no mention of Canada? That is disappointing, as we have been characterized as saying "have a beer eh!" instead of "hey how you doing eh?" - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~* Jim Miller British Columbia Canada * Radio Station VE7JM ..._ . _ _... ._ _ _ _ _ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 18:47:06 -0600 From: Rick Lassabe <bayrat at worldnet.att.net> Subject: air/ O2 I was at the same meeting that Ron was when we heard about the air versus oxygen! I have seen all the post, now which one is better--pure oxygen (from a welding or medical tank) or just plain old air that is pumped through a filter???? Rick Lassabe Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 02:26:06 -0500 From: ensmingr at npac.syr.edu Subject: pronunciation web site A pronunciation guide for Belgian beer terms is available at: http://belgianstyle.com/mmguide/pronounce/speak.html . -Peter A. Ensminger Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 23:50:09 -0800 From: "Colin K." <colink at wenet.net> Subject: Large Cooler Question I am new to this list. I am wondering if anyone knows where to find large round coolers. Right now I am using a 5 gallon cooler to make a 5 gallon brew. I find I can only comfortably use 12 pounds of grain. I am currently upgrading to a 10 gallon brew. I would like to be able to make 10 gallon brews of high gravity ales. Are there any 15 gallon coolers available? I have heard two promising leads that I have been unable to follow up. One is that there 15 gallon stainless coolers in the catering industry. The other is that on oil rigs in Texas they commonly have 15 to 20 gallon coolers. Can anyone offer a lead to these or any other large coolers? Thank you in advance, Colin colink at wenet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 15:10:01 -0800 From: Rosalba e Massimo <rosamax at split.it> Subject: Beer & Homebrewing in Italy III Hi all! Welcome to my third annual report about homebrewing in Italy. But first a great CIAO to everybody. It's quite a time since I last posted in this forum, I've just been lurking for a while, catching up with the last 3 months of issues, and I am happy to see that the list is in good health and Jeff is still the centre of the homebrewing universe :-) Just a few lines about personal brewing: after the big improvements in my technique of the 1996-97 season (mainly achieved thanks to the help of HBD!) in the last year I just tried something new, like brewing lager and culturing yeasts from bottle-conditioned beer. Let's talk about the homebrewing situation here in Italy: 2 years ago I wrote in HBD that it was almost non-existent compared to US and UK, one year later I told you that "something is moving". Now things are steadily going better. Kits are now widely available. For other ingredients (grains, hops, yeasts) we still have one main local source, whose catalog keeps improving, e.g. they store specialty grains, hops in every form (pellets, flowers, plugs) and also a good range of Wyeasts. There are probably another handful of shops ditributing some of their products. The owner estimates the italian homebrewing market in 20000 people now. Of them, the great, great majority are brewing with Kits (i.e. hopped extracts) with a very marginal share of extracts+specialty or all-grain brewers. >From the legal point of view, I finally could find that since 1995 homebrewing is perfectly legal, with no taxation nor any quantity limit as long as the beer is not sold and "is consumed only by the producer, his/her relatives and his/her guests". Now a subject that could be interesting if you are planning a trip to my country: microbreweries. There were a couple 2 years ago, maybe a handful last year. Now my site lists 20 of them, but I have a dozen more to check and put online. I only had the chance to try one of them and found good quality beers. Generally Italian micro's does not seem so adventurous in their range and offer mainly lagers of different styles. Most are actually brewpubs, with just a few true microbreweries. Internet beer life also had quite an improvement. Thanks to my Italian Beer Site I had contacts with many people during a year or so, and in last June/July I proposed the creation of an italian Usenet newsgroup on beer, which was voted and created and is now available (probably also in US servers, if any reader would like to practice his Italian...). The group is about beer in general (sort of mix of rec.crafts.brewing and rec.food.drink.beer) but needless to say 80% of posts are homebrew-related. It's called it.hobby.birra. Thanks to the discussion and advices in the group, many people who partecipate started brewing and/or moved to extract/specialty or even all grain; and the level of discussion is improving as more brewers (sometimes more experienced than me) are joining in. We are already had a "real life" meeting and, with the help of other brew people (HB retailers, University) we are also planning something more... why not, for example, a small competition? In this case I'll ask here for advices on organization! Hope this was interesting at least to some people... anyway at 1 report/year it is not a great waste of bandwith ;-) Cheers Max - Genova, ITALY Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 07:39:42 -0800 From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com> Subject: Pronounciation of Puyallup For all who care (god knows why), Puyallup IS pronounced PEW-ALL-UP or even PEW-ALL-IP and not PULL Yall up. Also as a side note, why would you want to make Zima? While whe're at it let's make some Old English 800 too. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 13:07:14 EST From: MaltHound at aol.com Subject: In praise of bottle conditioning (was: Bottle conditioning as diacetyl rest) In HBD 2892 Dan Cole <dcole at roanoke.infi.net> perhaps inadvertently gives bottle conditioning a bum rap: "This may go hand in hand with the level of advancement of homebrewers; those with kegs are more advanced and more well-read so they will include (and need?) a D-rest, while those that are still bottling are less-read (than the 1st group) and don't include (or need?) a D-rest." Dan, I would hesitate to make such a broad generalization about a bottler's or kegger's level of brewing knowledge and experience. I, for one, have been brewing for quite some time now, have read many brewing texts and am knowledgeable enough about brewing to know that I don't know everything. My discussion to NOT keg beer has been a conscious one related more to my consumption habits than my production capabilities. You see, I prefer to sample a variety of beer styles rather than a single style throughout a particular "session." This is particularly true if/when I am entertaining friends. A kegger is somewhat limited in the number of styles on hand by the number of kegs and taps that one has. With kegs, there is an incentive to drink up a particular batch in order to free up that keg for future batches. While it is probably marginally less labor intensive to keg, there is no intrinsic increase in beer quality that I am aware of. Since homebrewing is a hobby for me, I consider time spent on mindless tasks such as bottling part of the enjoyment. I tend to brew mostly during the cooler seasons and stockpile these brews to last through my usual summer brewing hiatus. At one point last brew season I counted 17 cases of various homebrew in my cellar with representatives from ~20 different batches. Some of these brews were well over a year old and were aging quite gracefully, due in some part no doubt to their bottle conditioning. Finally, from a financial standpoint, bottling wins hands down. All of my bottles have been acquired for free. Since I live in a non-bottle-bill state (New Hampshire - We're Livin' free or dying) once beer drinking friends learned that I could make use of their empties I was deluged with cases of recyclable. My only expense in bottling is purchasing caps and a tiny amount of sugar for priming. Being a native Yankee, I can appreciate such frugality. Regards, Fred Wills (*still* bottling in) Londonderry, New Hampshire Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 11:17:09 -0700 From: John Adsit <jadsit at jeffco.k12.co.us> Subject: Re: slamming the AHA and anyone else A few years ago my wife thought I needed a hobby, so she bought me a beginner's home brew kit. I was wary, because nearly all the homebrews I had ever had were pretty bad. I did not want the pursuit of a hobby to prevent me from enjoying quality beer. The beer I made with that first kit was better than I expected, so I decided to try some more. I made my first intimidating visit to the local home brew store. The clerk there, Paul, was very helpful. He spoke to me in language I could understand, and he made my beginner's questions seem reasonable and important. In subsequent visits, I grew to know Brian, the other clerk, as well, and I was always thankful for their advice. I noticed that they had the remarkable ability to move from the highly technical needs of the all-grainers to the beginner's groping for words without ever making either uncomfortable. I began to see home brewer's as a loosely knit family united by a single interest. It was really fun to participate in that atmosphere. Paul and Brian slowly helped me slowly graduate to all grain. I am drinking the best beers of my life, and I just have to go into my basement to get them. But they don't work at the store any more. I saw Brian the other day, but Paul (Gatza) is too busy with his work with AHA. I still get excellent help, but it's from someone else. It's really painful for me to read the really vicious attacks on these people in the HBD. It's not so much because I am so grateful for the wonderful help they gave me throughout my growth as a brewer. It's more because it is so different from the wonderfully friendly attitudes I saw in them and which I naively saw as an integral part of the home brewing culture. It's like a child realizing there's no Santa Claus. I am not just referring to AHA topics, either. I have seen some pretty antagonistic comments about a variety of topics. There are some nasty people contributing to this list. Nasty. I don't know the other side, of course. I don't know what experiences made them so full of hate and bitterness. I hope they can get help for it. In the meantime, I hope that the HBD can become a place where people can ask questions or share ideas in a friendly, communal way. Why is necessary to slam people and drive them away? Those of you who are experienced brewers may ask this questions: do you think new readers of this list will feel as welcome as Paul and Brian made this beginner feel? Do you see in this list the same communal friendliness that invited me to commit myself to home brewing? OK--go ahead and attack. I've put on my armor. - -- John Adsit Boulder, CO jadsit at jeffco.k12.co.us Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 20:46:54 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: Air in headspace Mark A. Bayer stated in his Dec. 4th post: "Dave Miller has suggested in at least one of his books that you leave absolute minimal headspace by filling the bottle to nearly full. I've done this accidentally (and on purpose), and it seems like the carbonation of those bottles takes a really long time, and the final level of carbonation doesn't get as high as other bottles from the same batch that had 1/2 to 3/4 inch of headspace." Really? I feel that a minimum amount of headspace wouldn't have any relationship with this at all, especially with the amount of time it takes for a bottle to fully carbonate. As a matter of fact, it seems to me that a bottle with more headspace would have a bit less CO2 dissolved into the beer, due to the fact that there is more of the total CO2 in the headspace. The only thing that I can think of is that the bottles with minimal headspace make less of a spfffffft (sp?) when you open them, so maybe you perceive them as being less carbonated. Mark continues: "One other method that gets suggested is to rest the bottlecaps on the bottles for an hour, without crimping them, and during this time the yeast will create CO2..." I doubt that the yeast produces much CO2 in that amount of time, but a substantial amount of CO2 will leave the beer as the beer warms (enough to purge some or most of the air from the headspace). After a while, the bottle caps will begin to pop up and down as the air escapes. Of course, the smaller the headspace the better. If you are bottling ale, there usually isn't a great difference between the beer and the room temperature. You can coax some of the CO2 out of the solution by rapping on the bottle with a plastic mallet or a piece of hardwood. This always works for me. Once again, the smaller the headspace, the better. Also, the bottom edge of the bottle is probably a bit more durable (to tap on) than any other place. Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 02:04:15 -0600 From: Al Franciosi <alnpaige at flash.net> Subject: Need help with sight glass Dear HBD'ers I have recently aquired a 15.5 gal keg that I would like to convert into a Hot Liquor Tank. I would like to have a sight glass. I have a few ideas of my own, but would really like some input from other brewers. Any help would be grealy appreciated. Either post or private e-mail is cool. TIA Al Franciosi Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 06:11:25 EST From: DGofus at aol.com Subject: Help save my marriage!(Bob Fesmire Dgofus at aol.com) I have made a near fatal lapse in reason. My friend and I decided to purchase 6 cases of beer and split the cost and beer down the middle. We got great prices on some wonderful beers, but........my dear wife did not think that the idea was so great. So, to appease her and keep in her good graces;^), I need to get rid of these case. This would allow one to try a variety of beers without blowing a wad of dough for individual cases as I did. The beers are as follows 1. Westmalle Triple 2. Westmalle Dupel 3. LaTrappe Triple 4. La Trappe Quaddrupel 5. Duvel I do not want to make money, just recoup my loses so that my understanding spouse does not decide to rid the house of all my homebrew equipment and me along with it! Price would be like $60 I live in the Pottstown Pennsylvania area. And am willing to delivery/meet in the area for any interested parties. Please e-mail if interested. Sorry for this departure from homebrew, but very important. Thanks! Bob Fesmire Madman Brewery( almost defunct ;^( ) Pottstown, PA Dgofus at aol.com (610)970-1241 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 98 13:24:25 PST From: "George De Piro" <gdepiro at fcc.net> Subject: CO2 levels dependent on amount of headspace Hi all, Mark writes: 'dave miller has suggested in at least one of his books that you leave absolute minimal headspace by filling the bottle to nearly full. i've done this accidentally (and on purpose), and it seems like the carbonation of those bottles takes a really long time, and the final level of carbonation doesn't get as high as other bottles from the same batch that had 1/2 to 3/4 inch of headspace.' back to me: I did a very small experiment with Louis Bonham in which I intentionally over- and under-filled bottles of Hefeweizen (a damn good beer, too). 2 bottles were filled as high as I could (almost to brim), two were filled to "normal" levels (~1 inch of headspace) and 2 were ridiculously underfilled. The primings were well mixed into the beer and minimal air was introduced into the beer at bottling by using a CO2-purged keg as the bottling bucket. I Fed-Ex'd the beers to Louis and he tested them for CO2 and air content using a Z & N device. While I don't have the exact numbers in front of me, the overfilled bottle contained much less CO2 then the other two bottles (almost HALF). Of course, it also had the least amount of air. The other two were slightly different in CO2 content, and of course the severe underfill (only filled up to the bottle's shoulder) had the most air (25 mL or so; yum!). While this was a VERY limited study (how much of an award-winning Weizen could I expect to sacrifice to science?), it suggests that the amount of headspace does indeed effect the final carbonation level of bottle-conditioned beer; pretty severely, in fact! Keep in mind that using a bottling bucket will encourage a lot of cold-side aeration, no matter how careful you are. I have had great success using a keg as a bottling vessel (thanks to Bill Coleman for that idea). In this way I can bottle half of a batch then fill the keg with the rest of the beer and force carbonate. It is always fun to compare the bottle-conditioned vs. mega-brew style of conditioning and serving. Have fun! George de Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 11:46:48 -0800 From: Anderson <rsda at istar.ca> Subject: Parti-gyle v High gravity I have done a couple of parti-gyle brews loosely following Randy Mosher's guidelines from Brewing Techniques. Although I have been reasonably satisfied with the results there is certainly quite an additional bit of work involved - 2 brew kettles and the extra clean-up for one. As I started planning for my next parti-gyle, A Russian Imperial/Oatmeal stout, it occurred to me that I could do a single boil and adjust the final gravites for the same end result. I had planned for a 10 gallon batch at 1.075 to be split 50/50 for 5 gallons at 1.100 and 5 gallons at 1.050. But by reducing to 8 gallons and only one boil I would realize 1.095 which I could split into 5 gallons and 3 gallons. The 5 gallons would remain the Russian Imperial Stout and the 3 gallons would be diluted to 5 gallons resulting in around 1.055. IBU's would be accordingly diluted. Does this sound reasonable? Stuart (Brewing in Beautiful (but wet) British Columbia) Brewing in Beautiful British Columbia Stuart Anderson Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 14:44:27 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: 240 Wiring >>>> From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at far-tech.com> One suggestion (sorry I don't have the name at work) was to use one hot line from the 240V water heater supply and the neutral from the wall plug (connected trough a GFCI of course). This would put double the current on that neutral (up to 30 amp). As the neutral doesn't go through the breaker (only the hot does) this wouldn't trip the 15 amp breaker. *IF* the gauge of the return wire is sufficient to handle 30 amps (12 gauge? I will look it up and check the wire) does this sound safe? <<<< Not safe, not code, and not recommended. The 2 wire plus grounding wire 240 circuit is indeed correct, as several posters have told us. As far as the white wire being painted black - this from "Wiring Simplified" by H.P. Richter and W.C. Schwan: "When you use a 2-wire cable to connect a 240-volt load, the cable contains one black wire and one white wire, but the white wire may not be used. What can be done? Follow code Sec. 200-7, Exception 1. Paint each end of the white wire black, or wrap black tape around the ends, and the cable will be considered as having two black wires." Much confusion exists over the purpose and use of the ground wires because both wires actually connect to the same spot on your entrance panel. The distinction exists at the other end, that is where the purpose and use for each wire are specific and definite. The groundING wire is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or bare. This wire also connects to any metal parts, including the cabinet, box or motor. This wire never carries current - it's purpose is protection only. The groundED wire is usually white and is the one which carries current. >>>> I was planning on turning the hot water heater off while brewing (either manually or by a built in relay to prevent my forgetting) so I wouldn't overload the circuit. <<<< I am not going to actually tell you to do this, but what I would do myself in your situation, and which I believe is perfectly safe, would be to install a 240 volt 50 amp. receptacle and plug for the water heater. Then you unplug the heater (full of hot water), and now you have the entire 240 volt circuit available for brewing use. You could possibly be injured by your wife if you ever forget to plug the heater back in before her next shower! If you have no regular 120 circuit in your garage, and only need a few amps to run a small pump, or controls, you can get a transformer 240 to 120 volt step down, and use the 120 output for that purpose. Here you can connect the groundING wire to the case and it will not carry current. The easiest safe way to get 120 for brewing would be to simply use an outdoor extension cord plugged inside the condo somewhere. Good wiring, and good luck, Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:51:23 -0400 From: bwible at wanda.vf.pond.com (Bill Wible) Subject: Hop utilization? Question for the experienced and learned all-grain brewers out there... Anybody know how to correct hop figures for concentrated wort boils? I switched to all-grain brewing early this year. Even though I'm brewing from all-grain, I'm still using a 20-quart stockpot to boil in. I know they say you need to do a full wort boil for all grain, but I just haven't bothered to get a bigger pot. I looked around for a 7 gallon pot for awhile, but couldn't find one. Maybe after Christmas. Anyway....In my 20 qt. pot, I can boil a little more than 4 gallons, and still leave enough room for the immersion chiller. I usually collect 5 and a half gallons of wort from the mash, then start with boiling about 4 and a half. I use the remaining gallon to replace evaporation during the boil. I almost always boil for 60 minutes, and I usually do end up putting the whole extra gallon into the pot. Then I always end up adding about a gallon of water to the fermenter at the end. To measure gravity before the boil, I formulate recipies based on 5 gallons, and then figure out the GU's and convert to 4 gallons so I can accurately measure what the gravity of the wort in the pot would be if it were 5 gallons. I do correct for temperature in my gravity measurements. Example: Gravity Target: 1.055 5 gallons at 1.055 = 5 * 55 = 275GU 275GU/4gallons = 68.7 = 1.069 This means 4 gallons at 1.069 will become 5 gallons at 1.055 when you add a gallon of water, right? My question is about hop utilization for this setup. It seems that my last several batches have been lacking in hop bitterness. I am aware that hop utilization is affected by concentrated wort boils. How does one account for this? I ususally use BrewWizard to plan recipies. I'm not sure if Brew Wizard has any built-in feature for this or not. I'm guessing it doesn't. Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 13:18:29 -0600 From: Kim Thomson <alabrew at mindspring.com> Subject: o2 in headspace Andrew J Milder <amilder at flash.net>writes: is there any way for me to cap on foam withoutaerating the beer? Andrew, you might try "rapping" on the neck of a filled bottle with a knife. This would cause disolved CO2 to come out of solution and push the O2 present out. - -- ALA-BREW Homebrewing Supplies Birmingham, AL http://www.mindspring.com/~alabrew/ Full Service Home Beer And Wine Brewing Supply Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 12/07/98, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96