HOMEBREW Digest #2902 Wed 16 December 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Using Little Apple's recipe for Big Brew ("Brian Rezac")
  Brew room Exhaust (gdhipple)
  Burlington, Princeton and Eugene and  Michigan trip ("Bruce Garner")
  Dixie Beer (LEAVITDG)
  Brewery Design (Al Korzonas)
  Back Road not Brick Road ("Bruce Garner")
  AHA: to bash or not to bash (Alan Edwards)
  Getting yeast cake out of a carboy (Elijah Daniel)
  St.Louis Brews competition results posted (Jack Baty)
  The AHA (Jeff Pursley)
  Yeast Worries!! ("Tim Szala")
  Got them Carbon Monoxide blues... (Hmbrwrpete)
  Mills and Buckets (Jack Schmidling)
  Charlie, are you out there? (ThomasM923)
  Smoke Peated v.s. Smoked (Ted McIrvine)
  Re: Acronyms?  Is there a FAQ somewhere. (Steve Jackson)
  re: books and such (Mikey Beck)
  To Brian Rezac and Rob Moline, I apologize (Jason Henning)
  Low Attentuation (Dan Listermann)
  Re: HELP-low attentuation (Jeff Renner)
  Weissheimer Pils? (Paul Shick)
  peat smoked malt (Stephen Cavan)
  To Al K on acronyms (Rod Prather)
  Re: Fries with that beer, Sir (Rod Prather)
  Legal status of homebrewing and AHA (Lee Menegoni)
  Re: Acronyms?  Is there a FAQ somewhere. (Joel Plutchak)
  Paul Gatza/Brian Rezac and the AHA board (ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO)
  Badger's Medieval Ale Recipe ("Greg Lorton")
  (R) Paul Gatza's fable (Badger Roullett)
  Addressing the Digest (pbabcock)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:31:14 -0700 From: "Brian Rezac" <brian at aob.org> Subject: Using Little Apple's recipe for Big Brew In HBD #2900, Jason Henning wrote: >Subject: Headspace o2, Brian Rezac and X-mas books > >Quite a few people tout Brain Rezac as one of the good guys over at the >AHA. Is he? I wonder. > >Brian helped Rob Moline further his personnel vendetta against his >former employer, Little Apple Brewing Company. Brian used Rob's stolen >Big 12 barleywine recipe as the cornerstone of the AHA's Big Brew '98 >event. Although Rob formulated (Rob also brewed it and was solely >responsible for getting the beer to GABF where it won BOS) the recipe, >it is still the property of the Little Apple. > >Where would the AHA be had the Little Apple filed suit and won? I don't >know what kind of a judgement could come of that but I bet it's 6 >figures. I can't imagine putting the limited resources of the AHA at >risk like that. Jason, First of all, I would never intentionally put the AHA at risk. The recipe we used for Big Brew '98, Big 10/20 Barley Wine was based on Little Apple Brewing Company's Big 12 Barley Wine and we attributed that to them. If they could file a suit against us for that we would all have to stop discussing clone recipes and there wouldn't be any clone recipe books. (I don't understand this subject as much as Louis Bonham. Hopefully, he can add a better explanation.) A couple corrections - Big 12 didn't win BOS. It won the Gold Medal in the Barley Wine category of the 1996 GABF. Also I, personally, don't think that Rob has a vendetta against Little Apple. There were some rough times and differences of opinions while he was there and when he left, but he's at another brewery and he has moved on. During that time, however, I remember him handling himself and the situation in a very professional manner. Even at times when a few homebrewers thought that a vendetta was an appropriate response, Rob kept his cool throughout. We chose the recipe out of respect for Rob, his achievements and his contributions to the homebrewing community. But to call it "the cornerstone of the AHA's Big Brew '98 event", is incorrect. The cornerstone of Big Brew is that all of us homebrewers come together and simply brew a batch of beer together. The particular recipe, the beer style or even if the beer isn't a particular style, are all secondary to us just brewing together. Rob was in to that as well. As for me being one of the good guys over at the AHA, I wonder as well. I am not perfect. I wish I could get more done faster. I get frustrated with the "change takes time" thing. But I can tell you that Paul and I are working to move the AHA into a more member-driven organization. And, you are correct, we do have limited resources, but we are always open for suggestions. Brian Rezac Administrator American Homebrewers Association 736 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302 303 447-0816, ext. 121 brian at aob.org http://beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:34:04 -0500 From: gdhipple at mmm.com Subject: Brew room Exhaust Al Korzonas writes - > The ventilation over the kettle & mashtun is the one part on which I would >like some design help. I brew in an old house basement and exhaust my 'brewing fumes' (heat and moisture) Basically I use a powered dryer vent arrangement. My basic components are: - outdoor dryer vent with animal screen - damper (to prevent cold air back flow) - various duct work connectors, elbows, etc. (as required) - flexible 4" dryer vent tube - a $5 blower from a surplus store - a 5 amp dimmer control (fan speed control) - a plastic wash tub from someplace like KMart Install the dryer vent like any dryer vent. I mounted the blower between the joists in the ceiling along with the dimmer control so it lined up with the vent. I cut a hole in the center/bottom of the wash tub and attached a 4" duct connector. This hangs from the ceiling inverted over my brew kettle to act as an adjustible hood (I can raise and lower it as needed). I don't have any fresh air supply. The old house leaks enough that I don't need to punch in any more holes intentionally. If you wanted to added an air make-up line (as in a new construction), I would put a simple air-to-air heat-exchanger (available at building supply stores) on the discharge side of the exhaust to reclaim some of the heat (it actually gets fairly hot - over 100 deg). Do not 'power' (add a fan) to the fresh air supply. It should make-up only what is expelled. Otherwise you might cool the exhausted air too much and have condensation problems. You can see my basic set-up in a picture at: http://members.aol.com/garyh20/wakefield/graphics/boil.gif You could also find a new/used kitchen or bathroom exhaust vent and mount it above the brewing area. My set up gives me more power (the 1 amp blower can move about 2,000 cfm at full throttle) and the flexibility to locate the hood where it is needed and get out of the way when it's not. Do yourself a favor and install a CO monitor as well. The plug-in type, with a digital ppm level display. Hope this is somewhat helpful. Gary D. Hipple 3M / Filtration Products Laboratory Bldg. 60-1W-17 2465 Lexington Ave. - South Mendota Heights, MN 55120 ************************** voice: 612/736-5627 FAX: 612/733-6349 email: gdhipple at mmm.com ************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:33:19 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Burlington, Princeton and Eugene and Michigan trip New business and old business: I have daughters returning for XMAS to Madison, WI from Burlington, VT, Princeton, NJ and Eugene, OR. They are looking for suggestions for special and local bottled beers to bring dad for the holidays. The wish list includes but is not limited to Alts; lactic Wits; English Milds, Bitters and Porters which are the styles I brew. Are the Alaska Brewing beers available in Eugene? Private email is probably best in this situation. A belated report: The Madison Homebrewers trip to Michigan the weekend before Thanksgiving was a big success. 11 breweries in 3 days was quite an undertaking. We stapped in two cornies of brew from Angelic and JT Whitney's and set off at 9:30 Friday morning in a 22 person bus. This proved a great way to do a tour like this. We talked and played cards while Ursula handled the driving. (We'll have to find another driver next time. We parked early enough each night that Ursula was able to walk around with us in K'zoo and GR: She's since joined the club.) The folks at Arcadia in Battle Creek; Old Penninsula, Kraftbrau and Bell's in Kalamazoo; Roffey's in Holland; Arena, Grand Rapids Brewing, BOB and Canal Street in Grand Rapids; and Brick Road in LaPorte provided good beer, appreciated tours and six packs, cornies and half barrels to be enjoyed and remembered for weeks to come. Thanks to all of our hosts and tour guides. An aside: some of the brewers I spoke with did not know of the HBD and are interested in subscribing. I will be sending them our address. Bruce Garner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:50:08 -0500 (EST) From: LEAVITDG at SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU Subject: Dixie Beer I recently tried the Dixie brew and liekd it. Perhaps the previous poster had a bad bottle? Note: it is not my style, but I found it to be refreshing...probably better for a summer brew. ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:45:07 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: Brewery Design I received many emails on Brewery Design. Rather than summarise them all, I believe that Harlan's pretty much covered all the points that everyone else mentioned. One thing that Harlan didn't mention that Lee Menegoni did, was to make a separate room for malt milling (because malt husks are notorious for harbouring lactic bacteria). Another thing that Lee mentioned was to use fireproof wallboard even if I plan to tile on top of it. My intent was indeed to make the room out of wallboard and then later (after occupancy permit issuance) tile it. Thanks everyone for your help. This last week end, however, we got some prices on a room addition and we may be moving sooner than expected. We either needed to (A) add a room or (B) move to a bigger house and it looks like it's going to be plan B. You can bet that there will be a room in the new house for a brewery, but the custom- built house will have to wait. With Harlan's permission, I'm posting what he suggested: >From blacksab at midwest.net Fri Dec 11 11:48 CST 1998 >X-Sender: blacksab at midwest.net >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:44:16 -0600 >To: korz at xnet.com >From: blacksab at midwest.net (Harlan Bauer) >Subject: Venting a brewery > >Al, you wrote: > >>On one of those "This Old House"-type of shows, I saw a heat exchanger for >>fresh air supply. I believe this is needed on some of the new super- >>insulated houses which are virtually airtight > >It's called an air-to-air heat exchange. The "core" of these things look >like a cube (~1-ft3) made up of many layers of what look like corrigated >cardboard. This "cardboard" is actually made from a semi-permeable membrane >(Gortex), and each layer of this "cardboard" is oriented 90* from it's >neighbor, e.g., > >/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ >================ >/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ >================ <--looked at from this side, the ='s would look like /\/\'s >/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ and the /\/\'s would look like ='s > > >In this way, 2 sides serve as the pathway for cool, fresh air IN, and the >other 2 sides serve to expel the warm, stale air OUT (the arrows show the >direction of flow below): > > cold, fresh outside > air IN (outside of house) > _________________ > | | > | <--- | >cooled, stale inside | top view | hot, stale inside >air OUT (outside of | | | air OUT (inside of house) >house) | \|/ | > |_______________| > warmed, fresh outside > air IN (inside of house) > > > >As they pass by, they exchange heat (This is one of those things that is >easier to show than to explain). > >You are correct in thinking these are needed for superinsulated >houses--specifically, ones with continuous vapor barriers. In such houses, >there are literally no drafts, so the air in the house must be mechanically >changed--x number of changes per hour. Rather than just venting out hot, >stale air and replacing it with cold, fresh air, an A-A HE allows for some >of the heat to be recaptured. > >NOW, the reason it is made of a semi-permeable membrane is condensation. >Superinsulated houses are notorious for high humidity levels. Hot, wet air + >cold, dry air = condensation at the interface. > >Therefore, I do not think this would be an appropriate use of the >technology--you're going to generate so much steam that it will over load >the core, and these cores aren't exactly cheap to replace. > >However, there are some solutions: > >1. use cold outside air to feed the flame > >2. use an exhaust hood or wall fan to vent the steam out. This will work >fine. This is all we have at the brewery and it is perfectly adequate. > >3. use either low pressure propane or natural gas--high pressure burners are >very inefficient and produce a lot of CO > >Recomendations: > >a. install a trench-type floor drain (don't say I didn't warn you!) > >b. install a hose that can handle both hot and cold domestic water > >c. make sure the entire room can be hosed down (incl. ceiling), tile is best > >d. build a walk-in cooler > >Want to know more? I'm fairly knowlegable in the area of enrgy efficient and >solar desgn. Also, feel free to cc this to the digest if you think it would >be of general interest. Also, I recall reading a funny article by Bill Owens >on what he was going to do with all the steam when he first opened his brewery. > >TTYL, >Harlan. > > > Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can > Carbondale, IL To justify God's ways to man. > <blacksab at midwest.net> --A.E. Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:48:37 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Back Road not Brick Road Correction: Madison Homebrewers went to Back Road Brewery not Brick Road in LaPorte, IN Bruce Garner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:33:35 -0800 (PST) From: Alan Edwards <ale at cisco.com> Subject: AHA: to bash or not to bash Jason Henning writes: | | The reason most people post negative comment about the AHA is because | they want a better AHA. There are a lot of problems with the AHA. To sit | silent is almost as bad as tell others to keep their opinions to | themselves. I don't agree. I simply don't care about the AHA's problems. I don't need them. For anything. To be fair, there was a point in time that I did get lots of useful information from Zymurgy...and I paid them for it. But they stopped delivering quality, so I stopped paying them. What have they done for you lately? The HBD and Brewing Techniques is all I need. And I would like to thank YOU ALL for that! -Alan in Fremont, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:36:17 -0500 From: Elijah Daniel <Elijah.Daniel at digital.com> Subject: Getting yeast cake out of a carboy After reading with some astonishment the recent posts claiming to be "neophyte questions" which are still over my head, I have a really basic one. Having just started brewing (2 extract batches), I am doing single-stage fermentation in a 5 gallon carboy. I am interested in harvesting the yeast from the bottom of the carboy for use in future brewing and/or baking experiments. So how the heck do I get it out? Or is everyone who is reusing their yeast doing a primary fermentation in something with a wider mouth? Thanks for your help, and keep the brewing wizardry coming. -Eli Daniel Brewing in Somerville, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:18:39 -0600 From: Jack Baty <jack at wubios.wustl.edu> Subject: St.Louis Brews competition results posted The results of the 1998 St.Louis Brews Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition have been posted on the club's web site: http://www.stlbrews.org/ Thanks to all who supported the competition with their entries, prize contributions, and judging expertise. Judging forms will be sent soon. They may be in the mail as you read this. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:20:19 -0600 From: Jeff Pursley <JPursley at Tulsa.E2M.net> Subject: The AHA I just read Paul Gatza's AHA version of A Christmas Carol. I have been brewing for only three years and I am sure I don't know all of the stories and past problems associated with the AHA. But it was only when I discovered Zymurgy that I discovered the depth and breadth of this great hobby. I too have been wondering when I would see some more services from the AHA. But this is an organization for homebrewers. It should be a grassroots organization. I like what Paul has to say about engaging the homebrew clubs out there. I do not see another national organization on the horizon. I believe that a national organization is necessary for us to have strong regional and local organizations. How can we make the AHA stronger and better? By joining an AHA-affiliated club. By offering constructive criticism and advice. And by participating in AHA competitions and festivals. And if participation also means volunteering, then we've discovered the best that the AHA can bring us: fellowship with our fellow homebrewers. I wish the best for the AHA. And Merry Christmas to my fellow brewers out there on the HBD. And lastly, I'm looking for fellow homebrewers to connect with here in Tulsa, Oklahoma. If FOAM is dead, let's start something new. Come on Tulsa, let's brew. Jeff Pursley Tulsa, Oklahoma Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:20:39 -0500 From: "Tim Szala" <tim.szala at mci.com> Subject: Yeast Worries!! Got a few quick questions.....I have recently begun brewing again after a 5 year hiatus. Coming from No.Cal where I didn't have very many opportunities to brew lagers because of the temperature constraints, I am trying an Oktoberfest style lager. My crawlspace maintains a temperature of approx. 58 degrees. I used Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian). I broke the yeast packet at 2 pm and let it rest for 11 hours before pitching it in a yeast starter at ~75 degrees. The next day I brewed and pitched the starter (I did see increased yeast amounts and a little krausen at the top, not much though) 17 hours later in wort at 74 degrees. I immediately moved it to the 58 degree environment. The problem is, approx. 24 hours later I see no fermentation activity. My questions: Was the yeast selection appropriate for the style attempted and fermentation temperatures? What else would have been better? Did I let the yeast rest long enough prior to initiating the starter? Was the pitch temperature appropriate? Will/should fermentation activity pick up in the next 24 hours? Is 58 degrees too warm? If it doesn't what are my options? re-pitch, etc. Thanks, Tim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:19:24 EST From: Hmbrwrpete at aol.com Subject: Got them Carbon Monoxide blues... First off, thanks to all of you who helped me with my flat Weizenbock problem. It carbonated nicely. Thanks again! Here's another one for you... I bought a Superb brew stove from East Coast/ Precision Brew supply this past summer. I planned on using it in the basement so I wouldn't have to go outside in the dead of winter. I finally ran the extra gas line to the "brewery" put up the range hood, vented outside, and fired up the burner. Within 15 minutes my CO detectors went off. Upwards of 100ppm in 15mins. After a few phone calls to PBS, the gas company and my friend the registered plumber the consensus opinion was toss a gas appliance regulator on that sucker and brew til your hearts content! So today I did that. Fired it up and after 15 minutes...nothing. After 30 minutes...nothing. So I got cocky and put on my 15 gallon Polarware kettle. 5 minutes in I hit 31ppm. Another 5 minutes 88ppm. 5 more minutes go by for a total of 15 minutes with the kettle on the burner and I'm up to 128ppm (yes, there was water in the kettle). I took the kettle off and 3 minutes later the reading was 108ppm. 2 minutes after that 88ppm, I then shut down the burner scratched myself and said, "Hmph." For grins, and because my two children were there, I had put a CO detector in the living room. Luckily no alarms. But I was getting a reading of 28ppm. I know it's low but with a 4 year old and a 2 year old tossed in to the equation it's still too high. So what gives? I had 2 fans going in the basement. I adjusted the flame as best as possible (still some orange showing), lowered the range hood, redirected the fans and even partially enclosed the burner area with cement board walls! Should I totally enclose the burner area as a fellow club member suggested? Do I need a bigger rangehood, is the size of the kettle, 19" across, vs the size of the burner, 12" across, spreading the flame out so much that it's pushing the CO out? If so would I be better off using a converted keg (taller and slimmer) for boiling and make the polarware into a mash tun? I'm stumped, your help is needed and very much appreciated! Pete Gottfried Buffalo, NY PS Hurry, this beautiful weather can't last much longer ;) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 21:22:25 -0800 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Mills and Buckets It has been pointed out that a mill can be difficult to deal with on a bucket and that mounting it to a table is a superior way of dealing with it. I won't argue that crushing carapils over a bucket can, at times, seem like wrestling an aligator but it is simply one way that our mill can be used and for convenience and portability, it can't be beat. Having said that, there is no law that says our mill must be used on a bucket and it can just as easily be clamped or bolted to a table. On the other hand, the other mill in question can not be used on a bucket because of its upside-down design. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 00:48:34 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: Charlie, are you out there? Volker R. Quante wrote concerning the "uvular r": "...Definitely not. Our southern neighbors, the Austrians, sometimes do, maybe also some Bavarians, but most Germans do not. They roll the "r" in the back of the mouth - the so called "uvular r", performed with the fluttering uvula." Fluttering uvula...sounds like a name for a C. Papazion recipe, i.e. Fluttering Uvula Belgian Steam Ale...; ) Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 01:59:38 -0800 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Smoke Peated v.s. Smoked There are actually several types of smoked malt; German smoked malt (over wood, Beechwood, I think) for making Bamburg-style Rauchbier, and Peat-smoked malt for making Scotch Ale. Hugh Baird now markets a "lightly peat-smoked malt" and this has caused havoc with my award-winning recipe. Some Scotch ale recipes that beer judges in New York rated highly had about 2% roasted barley and 4-6% peat-smoked malt. (I've never used Beechwood-smoked malt in a Scotch ale and never would.) The new Hugh Baird formulation is much milder, and I haven't figured out how to adjust my recipes. If anyone has data on the Hugh Baird "lightly peat-smoked malt" I'd love to hear from them. To me, one of the great things about homebrewing is that we don't have to have recipes that AHA Beer judges like. You like peaty/smoky scotch, I like peaty/smoky scotch (Lagavulin rules!) so a Scotch ale with 1/2 lb. of strongly peat-smoked malt is a possibility. I've used as much as 1 lb. and the Scotch addicts went wild. (But the beer judges gave me first prize for the cowardly version with 4 oz.) Not everyone will like this beer. But when Budweiser is the best-selling beer in America, why worry about what everyone else likes? Ted McIrvine > > Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 08:24:06 -0500 > From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> > Subject: Smoke Peated v.s. Smoked (was liquid smoke) > > If you want a smoked brew, I would use smoked malt, about 1/2 to 1 lb. > This is not to be confused with smoked peated malt, I have never used it, > but have heard many horror stories about it. > > So what is the difference. I thought the smoked peated malt was used in > Scotch Ale. I have also heard that anything over 3% to 5% will definately > mess up your brew. Being a Scotch lover, I have particular fancy for a true > smoky scotch ale. > Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 05:18:09 -0800 (PST) From: Steve Jackson <stevejackson at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: Acronyms? Is there a FAQ somewhere. IN HBD #2901 (Dec. 15, 1998), Rod Prather (rodpr at iquest.net) wrote: >>>> Does anyone have a FAQ on this echo and acronyms used with their meanings. I know most of them are common beer acro's. Although I have understood a lot of the basic chemistry for brewing for years, I am not that savvy to the hobby and would like to be able to understand some of the discussions here a bit better. <<<< It's not a FAQ per se, but there is a list of frequent brewing-related acronyms located at http://brewery.org/brewery/infobase/Acronyms.html Rod continued: >>>> Examples: CAP, FWH, AOB, AIK, NHC, BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program got that one), GABF, BOS, AIK, HMWP, MMWP, LMWP and others. <<<< For the ones I remember off the top of my head: CAP=Classic American Pilsner (AKA Pre-Prohibition Lager); FWH=First Wort Hopping; AOB=Association of Brewers, the parent org. of the American Homebrewers Assoc.; AIK=Actually, AlK, our own Al Korzonas, a frequent HBD contributor, author and pretty decent guy; NHC=National Homebrew Competition; GABF=Great American Beer Festival; HMWP, MMWP, LMWP=High Molecular, Medium Molecular and Low Molecular Weight Protein. As for Rod's other questions, a good source for this type of information is the Brewery's library. The Brewery (http://brewery.org), is maintained by Karl Lutzen, one of the HBD mavens, and is an all-around good site. The library has dozens of articles, ranging from beginner's guides to advanced discussions of things like protein rests or first wort hopping. -Steve in Indianapolis _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 06:04:33 -0800 (PST) From: Mikey Beck <stilts121 at yahoo.com> Subject: re: books and such Dave Sapsis <DAVE_SAPSIS at fire.ca.gov> wrote: >First off, Dr Lewis is a Welshman, not a "Brit", a >distinction that >would likely be honorably adhered to if it was you. I reply: A Welshman is a Briton...hence his distinction as a Brit. In fact, a Welshman has the most claim to the designation of a "Brit" because an Englishman is generally of Anglo-Saxon-Norman descent, while a Scot is of Irish-Norseman descent. A Welshman is a descendent (generally speaking here of course) of the Celto-Britains who inhabited the Isle of Great Britain (hence the name Briton or Brit) when the Julius Caesar first invaded. Sorry to split hairs but this is a touchy subject with me :) cheers, mikey. BSSC/121 _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 14:49:51 GMT From: huskers at voyager.net (Jason Henning) Subject: To Brian Rezac and Rob Moline, I apologize To Brian Rezac and Rob Moline, I apologize. I spoke harshly of their actions concerning the Big Brew '98 event. I spoke with half the facts and none of the correct conclusions. I was clearly wrong. Again, I regret my words and sincerely apologize. Respectfully, Jason Henning Big Red Alchemy and Brewing Clawson, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 09:45:46 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Low Attentuation Timo Peters writes that he is getting poor attentuation with his all grain brews. The best cure for this is longer mash times and / or lower mash temperatures. If he does a mashout or starts his sparge right after a negative iodine test without waiting for the larger sugars to be reduced, he will get a high final gravity every time. I mash a minimum of 90 minutes anymore. Also I recommend against shaking carboys to aerate. It is not very effective ( there is little air in them when shaking ) and, more importantly, it is dangerous. One could disembowel one's self. It only takes one time! Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 08:32:06 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: HELP-low attentuation >Timo Peters <tpeters at zfn.uni-bremen.de>, who no doubt knows how to >pronounce "kraeusen" and "Zum Uerige," writes that he is having problems >with underattenuation. I'd like to suggest another possibility that you didn't mention - high conversion temperature. A thermometer that reads only a few degrees low will cause you to mash at, say, 70 C when you are aiming at 67 C. This would lead to less fermentable worts such as your 67% AA Pils, although probably not the 54% Old Ale. That could be caused by fermentation problems unless you were really off on your mash temperatures. A 2 liter starter is on the low side for a 5 gallon (19 l) batch, especially for lagers; 4 liters is better. Best is to ferment often enough to reuse yeast. In my experience it keeps for weeks in the fridge. Sufficient aeration can be accomplished without pure O2, especially if you pitch an adequate amount of yeast. I'm sure others will have more suggestions. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 10:10:14 -0500 (EST) From: Paul Shick <SHICK at JCVAXA.jcu.edu> Subject: Weissheimer Pils? Hello All, I've got 55 lbs each of Weissheimer Pils and Munich on order at my homebrew shop, preparing for some serious lager production over the next few weeks. So far, the plan is to do 10 gallons of German Pilsner, followed by 5 gallons each of Maibock and Doppelbock, each on the yeast cake of one carboy. Visions (smells?) of Hallertau Mittlefrueh are dancing through my head.... My question concerns the mashing schedule for the Weissheimer Pils malt. A year or two back, someone posted a "typical" analysis for this malt, listing a Kolbach index in the 38 or 39 range. Looking at the Weissheimer web page, though, I can't find any analysis for their malt products, only for this year's harvest of various strains. The Kolbach indices listed are all in the 42's. The protein levels are all reasonably low. Does anyone have a malt analysis for Weissheimer Pils? Is the Kolbach index low enough to require a rest at 131F or 135F? Failing that, has anyone used a recent vintage of Wiessheimer Pils? Did you get away without a protein rest? Any clarity issues? As usual, thanks in advance for any help. I hope that you find time for holiday lagering, too. Paul Shick Basement Brewing in Cleveland Hts, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 09:37:48 -0600 From: Stephen Cavan <paddockwood at sk.sympatico.ca> Subject: peat smoked malt >Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 08:24:06 -0500 >From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> >Subject: Smoke Peated v.s. Smoked (was liquid smoke) >So what is the difference. I thought the smoked peated malt was used in >Scotch Ale. I have also heard that anything over 3% to 5% will definately >mess up your brew. Being a Scotch lover, I have particular fancy for a true >smoky scotch ale. As a rule Scotch Ale does not use Peat smoked malt. It can be very interesting in a Porter, and last year a Porter with 5% peated malt won first prize in Edmonton, I believe. I made a Stout using just peated malt as base malt, and discovered two reactions: love it or hate it. When I racked it, I thought I had encountered a new type of infection. The smell was horrid, but then I realised it was just peat. I served this Stout at a conference, and warned people that they might only wish to sniff it. Of the 5 brews I passed around, only this one came back for seconds! If you like single malt Scotch, you might really like this Peated Stout. Cheers, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 08:30:27 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: To Al K on acronyms Please forgive me for believing you were an acronym ,AIK, of beer processing instead of and ICON of the HBD. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 09:17:11 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: Re: Fries with that beer, Sir >Al wondered about the "French" in french fries. My understanding is as follows: >French fries are actually French-cut fried potatoes. >I'd wager the modern day "french fry" was invented in the US of A. Being a much better chef than a brewer, I have a bit on that. I can't find the reference. French fries were originally Pomme Frits and are definately a french invention. The real ones are similar to the puffed up thin sliced wedges found in BW3's and in some of the "upscale" hamburger joints. They are made by thin slicing the potatoes lengthwise in to wedges and immersing them in ice water prior to frying in hot fat when they puff from the steam. McDonald's sells the bastardized americanization of the original. So, pass me another IPA as we fly back to the topic at hand. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 11:29:38 -0500 From: Lee Menegoni <Lee.Menegoni at digital.com> Subject: Legal status of homebrewing and AHA Steve Jackson posted: ... Ditto for legalization efforts, since most of us live in states where our hobby is legal... Homebrewing may be legal in most states but possession of outside the home,transporting home brew or , holding competitions is either illegal or a violation of liquor commission policy in many states. Lee Menegoni Compaq Computer Inc. Phone: 978-506-6034 DTN: 226-6034 email: Lee.Menegoni at Compaq.Com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 11:04:09 -0600 From: plutchak at lothlorien.ncsa.uiuc.edu (Joel Plutchak) Subject: Re: Acronyms? Is there a FAQ somewhere. In HBD #2901, Rod Prather wrote: > Does anyone have a FAQ on this echo and acronyms used with their meanings. ... > Examples: CAP, FWH, AOB, AIK, NHC, BJCP... I'll leave the rest to somebody else, but AIK stands for Artificial Intelligence Korzonas. It's a highly sophisticated AI program that takes the HBD and other brewing information as input, synthesizes it, and outputs high volumes of good brewing advice and the occasional batch of beer. - -- Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> A couple hundred miles SW of Jeff Renner and about 100 miles due south of AIK. (Don't hurt me, Al! :-) P.S. To the janitors: the digest heading says to send submissions to post@hbd.org, while the web page and the reply-to mail header says to use homebrew at hbd.org. Which is correct and/or preferred? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 11:57:54 -0600 From: ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Paul Gatza/Brian Rezac and the AHA board Hi all, I would like to thank Paul Gatza for posting to the HBD and also responding to my personal email so promptly. Perhaps now that this line of communication is open we as a homebrewing collective can start suggesting to Paul, Brian and the Board things that we all feel that the AHA is doing correctly, incorrectly. Or for that matter start using Paul as a figure to give ideas for change to. We have heard so much about Paul and Brian being great guys (I know for one that Brian is a fantastic guy with his head in the right place). So let's see if they can get something done. The HBD is a powerful brewing force so what better a place to grab ideas for the AHA? C'ya -Scott "this message is dedicated to my new special HBD email friend" Abene ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://skotrat.dynip.com/skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "The More I know About Cathy Ewing, The More The AHA SUCKS" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 09:56:49 -0800 From: "Greg Lorton" <glorton at cts.com> Subject: Badger's Medieval Ale Recipe Greetings! Back in August (HBD #2814), Badger Roullett posted an old recipe for housewives on how to make beer. His quoted recipe was... <snip> In a reprint of an old book for housewives (yes, its true. Women did MOST of the brewing in period) that contains a section brewing there is a description of brew day that i would like to throw past you.... Here is a typical brewing day... (only the first runnings are mentioned.small beer omitted) - grind your grain, and set to boil your mash water - put half of your grain in your mash vessal - pour bit by bit "with scoops or pails" the boiling liquor over the malt, and stir - add rest of malt - let stand for an hour or more - "let the first liquor run gently from the malt" - put into boiling vessel, and add hops - boil for an hour or more - drain thru a sieve to catch hops - cool overnight - pitch Ale Barm (yeast essentially) <snip> Badger was curious how the reverse set of mashing temperatures (first high, then low) would affect the beer. Intrigued by it, I tried his procedures for an old ale. I brewed a 3-gallon batch in October with this recipe, and then three weeks later, a second 3-gallon batch with a conventional double infusion mash. I used British pale malt (86%), some 60L crystal (5%), a little chocolate malt (3%), peated barley (3%), and flaked barley (3%). The amount of grain (9 1/4 pounds) was designed to give an OG of 1.073, assuming 80% extraction efficiency. Both worts were boiled for one hour with an ounce of Kent Golding pellets added at first wort, 1/4 ounce added at 30 minutes, and 1/4 ounce at 15 minutes before the end of the boil. (IBUs calculated at about 33) I used Wyeast London Ale yeast (#1028) for the fermentation. Both beers were fermented for 8 days in primary and 14 days in secondary. Fermentation temperatures ranged between 60 and 65F for both beers. With the "medieval" recipe above, the highest temperature reached was 159F. There was quite a bit of cooling (more than I expected) as the boiling water heated up the grain and the kettle, and I added the water slowly (over about 15 minutes) to make sure that the mash didn't get much hotter than 160F. After letting it sit for an hour, the temperature dropped to 151F. I then added the other half of the grain, and the temperature dropped to 144F. Over the next 45 minutes the temperature dropped to 142F. The OG was 1.071. The second batch (using my standard double infusion mashing) included a 25-minute protein rest (127F) and an 90-minute saccharification step at 154F. The OG was 1.069. The final gravity of the "medieval" recipe was 1.019 (71% apparent attenuation), while it was 1.027 (61% apparent attenuation) for the "conventional" recipe. My wife and I did a side by side taste test yesterday. The "conventional" recipe had been in the bottle for three weeks, and the "medieval" recipe for six. The "conventional" recipe tastes like a light version of a barley wine, as would be expected, with a faint, pleasant smoky character. It has a nice malty flavor and aroma, and a medium body. There wasn't much of a head (damn protein rest!). The "medieval" recipe is lighter in body, has a much more pronounced alcoholic flavor and warmth, and has noticeable spicy and grainy flavors. It's less malty and the smoky character is more apparent. The carbonation is higher, and it retained a nice head. In essence, we tried to keep as many variables constant, except for the mashing procedure. It seems that Badger's recipe resulted in a more fully attenuated beer. The first step of the mash allowed the alpha amylase to break down the starches into a lot of dextrins, and the second step added a lot of fresh beta amylase to convert much of the dextrins to fermentable sugars. Did anyone else take on Badger's challenge? Greg Lorton Carlsbad, CA Go 'Cats! Beat the Cornhuskers!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 11:11:36 -0800 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: (R) Paul Gatza's fable Steve Jackson Said about Subject: Paul Gatza's fable >I wanted to express my appreciation to Paul Gatza for his entertaining >little fable on the past, present and future of the AHA. I would also like to agree with Steve here, and commend Paul for his excellent post... >The biggest challenge the AHA is going to face is providing something >else to make the cost of a membership worthwhile. Very few people are >going to the GABF, so the members-only tasting and reduced admission >fee perks don't mean anything to most of us. >As I said, I really don't have a suggestion for what that "something > else" is. All I know is, until that something else is found to add > value to an AHA membership Hmmm.... maybe this would be a good forum to let paul know just what he could add to the "perks" list. I am not a member, and I also use other magazines. (brewing ones, you dirty minded old coots!!) BT is far and away the best (IMNSHO), and I rather enjoy BYO for its articles. Getting Zymurgy is out, i have two magazines already. What would HBD'ers suggest for spiffs? As a favor to Paul, and in the spirit of good will, lets leave out the Acrimonius Diatribes, and Critisisms in favor of Constructive Advice. >Ditto for legalization efforts, since most of us live in states where our hobby is legal. I think this is an important task of the AHA, and I appreciate them for it. Those that have it legal should appreciate it, since they might not have the legal right to do it.. (we'd probably do it anyway :) but then we would have to be a bit more quiet about it... which would suck! I love talking Beer..) How many states haven't got it? ********************************************* Brander Roullett aka Badger (Seattle, WA) Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 14:28:57 -0500 (EST) From: pbabcock <pbabcock at mail.oeonline.com> Subject: Addressing the Digest Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Joel Plutchak writes: > P.S. To the janitors: the digest heading says to send submissions > to post@hbd.org, while the web page and the reply-to mail header > says to use homebrew at hbd.org. Which is correct and/or preferred? They are interchangeable. Use whichever YOU prefer! -p Return to table of contents
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