HOMEBREW Digest #2931 Mon 18 January 1999

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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
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Contents:
  HLT for a Brew Pot? (Rod Prather)
  Acifiying No-Sparge Water (Ken Schwartz)
  Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD. (Rod Prather)
  SG rise from priming. (John Varady)
  Re: Wyeast #1968 (John Herman)
  Bunsen burner ("Lee B.")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:40:40 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: HLT for a Brew Pot? Anyone who follows a certain path of logic will eventually come up with the same questions that have been asked before. Eventually, with enough answers, similar conclusions also. So I am sure this question has been raised, I just don't know the answer. For a home brew RIMS, why can't you use the HLT for the brew pot. One less pot, one less burner, less fabrication. In an RIMS where the mash is heated by a recirc coil in the HLT you could make a complete system with a single burner. The only real problem that I see is the cleaning measures required. If the coil were removable that would be minimal. Obviously, in a production situation this would put a crimp on the product flow but I don't see why you can't do it in a home situation. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 12:20:34 -0700 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: Acifiying No-Sparge Water Mike Rose asks about adding acid during a no-sparge session. The best time to adjust the pH would be pre-boil, to ensure that all pH-related effects are accounted for. However, chances are you will not need to add much if any acid due to the buffering ability of the wort. Only if the water you're adding is very alkaline would this probably be necessary. Check the pH before acidifying. - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX kenbob at elp.rr.com http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:04:55 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD. Many of you responded to my question about an apparent alergic reaction to a beer I drank while still in ferment. I bottled it, bottle conditioned, let it set 5 days and tested the outcome. Well, it doesn't make me red anymore. It was probably due to something interrim in the fermentation process. Thanks to all who responded. Probably Fusel alcohols. In fact it is quite tasty for an extract beer. It resembles a porter. This is because it was made from 2 cans of 4 year old light malt extract that I found in my closet added to a pound or so of new amber DME to step up the ABV in a 5 gallon batch. The extract was very dark due to age, something I will never be able to duplcate precisely. With the exception of a bit too much mouth feel, this is probably the tastiest beer I have ever made. Largely, I feel, due to the hop balance which was more chance than knowledge. I'm going to call it U.N. Porter (though it isn't really and ale) because I mixed German Hallertau, Willamettes and American Tettnangs. O.G of 1.052 F.G. of 1.015. 1 1/4 oz of Willamettes at 60 minutes brew and 1/2 oz of Hallertau at 30 minutes. It had a total IBU of 30 but I added a tea steeped of 1/2 oz of hallertau at the beginning of fermentation which probably increased that slightly. I also added a 1/2 oz dry hop of American Tettnang plug at the end of 4 days fermentation. The dry hop stayed on the beer for 5 days until bottling. Yeast? Sorry guys, Coopers dry yeast, sure I broke the rules but it worked. I haven't progressed to Wyeast yet. Don't know that I will except maybe to make a Kolsch in the future in honor of Al K. and maybe a Belgian or two. Don't much care for Weiss or Hefe Weiss. Thanks to the knowledge base of HBD discussions I feel that I now have a solid basis for brewing principles. I know I've made some stupid statement in the last few months but I send my thanks to all of you who aided my knowledge. Note: No fruit flies were added. Nostrovia to HBD...... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:31:47 -0500 From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: SG rise from priming. Expected rise in SG from priming: My trusty Bottle Priming Calculator tells me that 5 gallons of beer at 60F contains 1.05 volumes of co2 already. To carbonate to 2.5 volumes, I need to prime with .2238 lbs (101.54 grams) of corn sugar or .1791 lbs (81.23 grams) of cane sugar. Using a specific gravity contribution of 1.037 for corn sugar and 1.046 for cane sugar; Corn Sugar : .2238 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6565 points Cane Sugar : .1791 lbs X 46 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6475 points I just weighed 3/4 corn sugar at .3152 lbs (143 grams). This yields: .3152 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 2.333 points This would result in a carbonation level of 3.10 volumes in the 5 gallons of 60F beer we wish to prime. This is why it's better to weigh your priming sugar. John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Boneyard Brewing The Home Brew Recipe Calculating Program Glenside, PA ***> rust1d at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:19:57 -0500 From: John Herman <johnvic at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Wyeast #1968 I had used Wyeast #1968 on three occasions for an ESB. I also emailed Wyeast about the need to rousing. They said you don't need to, but that your FG should be a couple of points higher than usual. I was not happy with the results. I found the ale to be too sweet. Now, this was before I started aerating with an aeration stone, which has greatly helped my beers. My advice is that, unless you properly aerate, don't use this yeast. John Herman Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:58:30 -0800 From: "Lee B." <leeb at iea.com> Subject: Bunsen burner Looking for a bunsen burner for yeast manipulations. I assume a bunsen is preferrable to an alcohol burner? Any good sources welcome. I would like to connect the bunsen burner to a standard non-refillable propane cartridge. Anyone know where to get the proper connections? Is this safe? TIA _____________________________________________ Lee B. leeb at iea.com Return to table of contents
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