HOMEBREW Digest #3063 Tue 22 June 1999

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  SPAM<SPAM<SPAM<SPAM ("Eric J Fouch")
  converting kegs (jgibbens)
  generic water formula (jgibbens)
  Re: My Mash Mixer experience (RobertJ)
  AHA regional results ("BERNER,ROBERT A.")
  CAP (Nathan Kanous)
  Stirrer Motor, Another possibility ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Got any Italian beer recipes? ("Kelly")
  Acidity, INventory file. (Dave Burley)
  Disappointment with results of first time all grain. (Edward Seymour)
  Biere in Montreal ("Charles T. Major")
  degermination ("Keith Menefy")
  PUB Pages on-line... (wyldecat)
  Nottingham Yeast (JerryConn)
  Quick question for the chemists (Harlan Bauer)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * 2000 MCAB Qualifier: Buzz-Off! Competition 6/26/99 * (http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff) Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow" Back issues are available via: HTML from... http://hbd.org Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. Digests CANNOT be reprinted or reproduced in any format for redistribution unless said redistribution is at absolutely NO COST to the consumer. COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the above. Home brew clubs NOT associated with organizations having a commercial interest in beer or brewing may republish articles in their newsletters and/or websites provided that the author and HBD are attributed. ASKING first is still a great courtesy...) JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 00:15:55 -0700 From: "Eric J Fouch" <fouches at iserv.net> Subject: SPAM<SPAM<SPAM<SPAM HBD- Rather than sending a rash of notes to the HBD regarding the spam that slipped through (nobody is 100% vigilant) in HBD 3061 do what I do: Send a note to the webmaster along with a a copy of the spam: To: webmaster at thespark.com Regarding: Spam Don't want this spam. Please make sure I get no more. Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 23:15:21 -0500From: "Victor" <klooy at thespark.com> Subject: A Collectors Dream**A Collectors Dream** Own a World class series at 10 centson the dollar. A 25 Year labor of love and extra ordinary talent brought together this beautifulART OF THE STATES Collector servies limited editionby internationally aclaimed artist Most ISP's do not want to have anything to do with spammers. If we bring it to their attention (especially a few THOUSAND of us), we can help them stop it from their end. This will help us help the janitors to keep the HBD spam resistant. Here are excerpts I received from the webmaster at bigfoot.com: Thank you for contacting Bigfoot's Webmaster. We have received your mail and will be getting to it as soon as possible, Due to the incredibly high volume of messages we receive, however, we might suggest contacting one of the addresses below in order to expedite a response from us. Reporting Unsolicited Mail - Abuse at bigfoot.com Bigfoot hates spam. If you know of a spammer, or have received mail from someone improperly using a Bigfoot address in the RETURN ADDRESS field (a common tactic of spammers), please send a copy of the mail, including full headers, to abuse at bigfoot.com. If the message does indeed indicate an infraction of our conditions of use, we will terminate the misused account, contact the offending party's ISP for removal on their end, and pursue legal action if possible. If you would like to pursue a "spam" issue further, please feel free to send mail to spamhater at bigfoot.com. You will receive an automated reply containing a list of e-mail address pertaining to the US government and various Internet monitoring groups that might be able to help you. Getting Help from Bigfoot - Help at bigfoot.com If you are a Bigfoot user and require assistance with your Bigfoot services, please send mail to help at bigfoot.com. You should receive a response within 24 hours, although weekend mail is answered on Mondays. Reporting Technical Problems - Webmaster at bigfoot.com You've come to the right place!!! Getting Information Regarding Bigfoot Services - Info at bigfoot.com The best way to get information on our site is to actually go there and have a look around. We are located at http://www.bigfoot.com. If this proves problematic, feel free to send a message to info at bigfoot.com. You will then receive an auto-message telling you a bit about our company and our services. Advertising on Bigfoot - AdMgr at bigfoot.com Quite simply, anything to do with advertising should be directed to admgr at bigfoot.com. You will be contacted quickly with regards to any questions you might have. Eric Fouch Bent Dick YocotBrewery and Spam Nemesis Kentwood MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 00:21:52 -0500 (CDT) From: jgibbens at umr.edu Subject: converting kegs Hello all, Just wanted to share some of my experiences with converting 15 gallon kegs into mash tuns, brewing pots, and fermenters. I've done some cutting with a dremel tool and also with an 8" abrasive cut-off blade for a circular saw. A plasma torch was also used for a few of the cuts. The best results were with the 8" abrasive wheel. It was over 10X faster than using a dremel tool and the cut was much smoother than the plasma torch cut. Does anyone have any advice on the best (cheepest is also good) way to install a dial thermometer into a mash tun? I'm limited on stainless steel fittings and pipe, so the best I can come up with is to buy an industrial grade thermometer with 1/4" male pipe thread behind the dial. Then I could just drill a hole in the keg, place an O-ring behind the dial and clamp it to the keg with a 1/4" female coupling. Possible problems are damaging the thermometer from the pressure of the fit, and the thermometer would be exposed to dammage from stirring even if pipe surrounded the stem. Any ideas? Joe Gibbens Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 00:36:34 -0500 (CDT) From: jgibbens at umr.edu Subject: generic water formula Given some of the earlier posts on water content, I'm probably stepping onto a land mine... I want to base my beer off of bottled water, so I'm looking for information on minerals I should add (if any). 1. If there's a standard, what is the standard mineral content of bottled water? Calcium content? 2. Beyond calcium at 50 ppm acidifying the mash to about 5.2 pH, is there anything else that needs to be added that wouldn't be present in bottled water already? I'm not trying to copy any regional water styles, just start with water that won't negatively affect proteolytic or diastatic enzymes. Thanks. Joe Gibbens Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:22:01 -0400 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re: My Mash Mixer experience Jack Schmidling wrote: Scorching is a real problem, especially with a false bottom. I have told the story many times but that is how and why I invented the EM. With the blade just clearing the EM and rational control of the heat, there is no scorching. - ---- Jack, the original poster never mentioned using a false bottom or scorching as a problem. I have used a false bottom for 10 years and have not ever found scorching to be a problem. The exception would be using a pot with a very thin bottom (which would also cause scorching during a boil). Without "rational control of heat" during temperature raises (fast temperature raise), a false bottom may cause jumps in overall mash temperature, but not scorching. Temperature jumps are due to temperature difernetials above and below the FB. To avoid these jumps the brewer can use Mash Recirculation and/or slower heating of the mash. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:42:28 -0400 From: "BERNER,ROBERT A." <BERNERRA at apci.com> Subject: AHA regional results Kim Thomson writes: It's me again... Anyone received results from the 1st Round NHC from Kansas? Two of us still waiting here in B'ham. <snip> We all are waiting. I spoke with Brian Rezac (forgive the spelling) at AHA headquarters last week and this topic came into our conversation. He said he hoped to mail out the score sheets from the first round before he left for Kansas City either today or tomorrow. So we should be getting our results in the very near future. He also mentioned that the ribbons for those who placed 1st, 2nd, or 3rd in the regionals have not arrived yet and I do not recall if he gave me an ETA on them. Brian said that the Belgian categories were among the largest in this year's competition. I had a strong dark ale that scored a 35.5 and did not make it to the second round, so don't feel too badly about not advancing. Bob Berner Your body is a temple, a temple of Bacchus. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 07:52:01 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: CAP Keith wasn't impressed with his CAP. I, for one, can say that CAP can be a great beer! I used one of Jeff Renner's original recipes using the 2035 (Schell) yeast. I kind of mistreated this beer and it came out to be one of the best I've ever brewed. It was excellent. My regards to Keith...don't give up on this one. You mentioned that the head didn't last...did you utilize the infamous "protein rest"? I rested the mash at 104 deg F and then went directly to saccharification (as direct as possible). No haze and a long lasting head. I also used flaked maize...I'll use corn grits later this summer. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 09:59:23 -0400 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Stirrer Motor, Another possibility Has anyone ever considered using part of an ice cream maker? I haven't been around one in a long time but I seem to remember it consists of a motor mounted to the cover of the bucket. It includes a "paddle" of sort that scrapes the sides of an inner container. I believe it is designed to run until the ice cream get thick enough to stall the motor. Just an idea to consider. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:01:40 -0500 From: "Kelly" <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: Got any Italian beer recipes? Hello all, Does anyone have recipes to emulate the Italian beers mention in the previous post...Peroni and Moretti...particularly the 'reddish bock'? I've had the light versions and the bock one sounds interesting.... At present, I'm only set up for extract brewing..so, any recipes for this for extract brewing much appreciated..!!! Kelly - ------------------------ "Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:41:18 -0700 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Itallian Food & Italian Beer <snip> I've had three Italian beers: Peroni and Moretti, which make clean light lagers, and Moretti La Rossa, a reddish bock somewhere between double bock and May bock. Moretti La Rossa is the sort of malty sweet beer that I think goes very well with Italian food. Cheers Ted Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 11:51:32 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Acidity, INventory file. Brewsters: Bill Frazier's suggestion to use potassium bicarbonate for the reduction of acidity in meads will work, but not as well as in grape wines where the major acid is tartaric and potassium bitartrate is unusually insoluble for an alkalai metal salt. More than likely the potassium will stay in solution and in high concentration give a salty taste to the mead. Likely, calcium carbonate is more readily available and works well in meads as the solubility of many simple organic acid calcium salts are of low solubility, especially at low T. I guess the major acids in mead are acetic and lactic, maybe some citric and tartaric. Anyone know? Of these, calcium acetate is very soluble and will not be precipitated easily at low T. I do not have a solubility for calcium lactate or citrate at low T, but presume it is lower than the acetate in the water alcohol mixture. Certainly, I suspect, this salt is less soluble than the potassium salt. Unlike grape wines which have excellent buffer systems, mead has virtually none and the pH needs to be checked as well, especially in the first days to keep the pH above around 3.5 or so. This prevents damage to yeast a low pH will cause and the long slow incomplete fermentation mead makers often experience. If you later decide to adjust the acidity up, use tartaric acid and then cold condition it to bring down calcium tartrates and any potassium bitartrate. You should check the acidity afterwards. What happened to the wine network? I subscribed ( I think) but haven't heard anything. - -------------------------------------- Pat, No association intended between the HBD Janitors' excelllent service and those of a Russian Sex Queen. I will set up a file to contain my, as yet unpublished, HBD submission and edit it at a later date. Just never thought of it as a way of reducing my infile quickly. I hate to have anything pending in my infile. - ------------------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:42:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Edward Seymour <eseymour at yahoo.com> Subject: Disappointment with results of first time all grain. After brewing my second batch of extract with specialty grains, my brewery was served with an eviction notice. Little did my wife know what she was getting into when she gave me the start up beer kit as a graduation present. Stuck with having to move my operation into the basement, I decided to serf the net to find an acceptable setup for my little plot of cement. I found two great sights that the authors made their all grain breweries out of plastic buckets (thanks Ken Swartz and C.D. Prichard). After several trips to Home Depot (no affiliation), I built my three tiered all grain brewery. This consists of a 5 gal. plastic HLT with two 1500 watt elements to heat the water. A 5 gal. round cooler with a home-made stop-sign manifold that I slotted 1/2 way thru the 1/2 inch copper pipe in 1/2 inch intervals with a Dremal tool (no affiliation) plumbed into the bottom (slots facing down). A 12 gal. boiler with two 1500 watt elements and a braided stainless steel manifold. All electricity runs thru GFI protected circuits. For father's day, my former landlord and spousal unit gave me the ingredients for an amber ale as follows: 10 lbs. Two row pale malt 1 lb. Dextrin (Cara Pils) .5 lb. 120 deg. Crystal malt .25 lb. Roasted barley 1 oz. Cascade 7% alpha 90 min. of boil .5 oz. Cascade for 30 min 1 tsp. Irish moss for 30 min. 1 oz. Cascade at end of boil .5 oz. Mt. Hood dry hop in secondary. 1 pt. starter of Wyeast 1056 American Ale OG = 1.064. FG = 1.008 Father's day came and I started brewing. The first thing I did was heat up the water in the HLT and poured the grains into the mash turn. When the water was hot enough, I strucked (turned valve) 4 gal. of water and mixed (temp. 180deg.). I stirred like mad, and added soda pop plastic containers filled with ice until the temp. went down to 155 deg. I placed the top on the cooler and let sit for 90 minutes. I opened the cooler, stirred, took temp (150 deg). and recirculated about 2 qt. of wort. There were no husks in any of the runnings collected, so I took a sample of the wort for a hydrometer test (1.072 at 80 deg)(is this good?). I then sparged with 5 gal. of 170deg water until boiler had 7.75 gal. collected (was this too much water?). Final running was 1.014 at 80 deg. (is this too much sugar left in the lauter?). For sparging, I had the metal tube poor the water on top of a veggie steamer that I confiscated from the previous place of residence. I Fired the boiler (flipped a switch), waited until foam subside, and add hops according to schedule. After boiling for 90 minutes, I cooled with an immersion cooler until wort was 70 deg.(18 minutes). The specific gravity reading at this point was 1.040 at 70 deg., total wort collected into fermenter was 5 1/2 gal. I was sadly disappointed with this figure. I don't know my efficiency factor, but obviously left sugar in the grain. I read somewhere that you should stop sparging when the runnings are about 1.008. How can I boost my efficiency without ending up with 10 gallons of wort to boil down to 5 gallons. I figure that this will take about 5-6 hours to boil down (unacceptable by the spousal unit). I know that I could add some DME to boost the SG, but I wanted to do this with all grain. Any comments, recommendations, suggestions will be graciously accepted. Please keep it simple, I'm not a chemist but a business major, and this is my third batch made (2 extract, one all grain). If you want to kick my dog, don't worry she just got a bath so your shoes won't get dirty (her mouth does move as fast as a cobra though). Regards, Ed Seymour Brewer, Bottle washer. Hamden, Ct. (Only 2 inches from anywhere in the world according to my pocket atlas.) _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 15:01:01 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) From: "Charles T. Major" <ctmajor at samford.edu> Subject: Biere in Montreal Salutations, all! I'm travelling to Montreal soon, and I'looking for some beer information, specifically about Unibroue. I've checked several travel guides, I've noted the Montreal recommendations at http://www.pubcrawler.com, and I've visited Unibroue's website at http://www.unibroue.com, but I haven't found where the brewery is located or whether they allow visitors or give tours. Can anyone in the know provide some information, either about Unibroue or about other must-see sights, bars, or restaurants in Montreal? Regards, Tidmarsh Major Birmingham, Alabama Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 09:14:24 +1200 From: "Keith Menefy" <kmenefy at ihug.co.nz> Subject: degermination G'day Thanks to Jeff Renner and Dave Burley for responding to degermination. I was a wee bit light on the brewing details. The maize I used is stock feed quality maize, very dusty. I put it through the grain crusher, same setting as the barley. The crusher grumbles about it a bit but eventually does the job. Thinking that the germ at the seed tip looked a bit tender I tried tumbling it in my gizmo for getting the rootlets off malted barley. It got rid of a lot of the dusty rubbish but the tip stayed. >Brewing texts say that low oil content is necessary to avoid rancid flavors, I never noticed any off flavours at all, just bland. >Bourbon whiskey is made from 70%+ whole corn meal - the oil floats on top of the fermenting mash like a blood red oil slick. Would it be possible to boil the maize prior to brew day and skim the oil off when it has cooled down a bit? I use a decoction system for brewing, the maize goes in when the first decoction is just coming to the boil, and is boiled for about 30 mins. I had expected heading problems, and was curious if there would be any other effects from the oil content. >I have found that often beers which are cloudy with starch also have a head problem and do not have very good mouth feel. I have never bothered checking for starch (iodine test), I have just assumed that with a 4hr mash everything is converted. May try the test sometime but I do like to keep it fairly easy. Use the KISS (keep it simple stupid) principle. Another question. I use a big (200 litre) container for the boil. It is posible to put a lid on with just an inch pipe outlet for the steam. If I restrict this outlet a bit more would it increase the temperature at all, and by how much. Is the steam coming off the same temp as the water being boiled? I am after the Maillard reaction for colouring/carmelising the sugars. How do Guinness achieve their black colour? I have never got better than a dark brown even with using burnt barley. Cheers Keith Menefy Hukerenui New Zealand Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 99 19:17:27 +0000 From: wyldecat at slip.net Subject: PUB Pages on-line... </lurk_mode = off> Greetings collective - I just wanted to take a moment and let y'all know that I have finally gotten my website and on-line recipe formulator up and going. http://www.pub-sf.com If y'all wouldn't mind taking a look at it and letting me know what you think, I'd appreciate it. TTFN! Jamie </lurk> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 22:59:49 EDT From: JerryConn at aol.com Subject: Nottingham Yeast I am relatively new to this hobby but have read and absorbed as much as possible. I have read several posts recently about the slow starts with Nottingham and Lallemand yeast. My question will most likely show how little I kow about brewing after slightly over a year of messing with this hobby. Why can a person not, after hydrating the dry yeast, pitch the slurry in a yeast starter? This would get a good start with the dry yeast, build up the cell count and eliminate problems when pitched to the wort? There must a simple answer to this but as of yet I do not know it. TIA Jerry Conner Star City Brewers Guild, Roanoke, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 23:09:52 -0500 From: Harlan Bauer <blacksab at midwest.net> Subject: Quick question for the chemists I need to make a 0.1N solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH). What would be the recipe? I have a scale and volumetric flasks. TIA, Harlan Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/22/99, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96