HOMEBREW Digest #3193 Mon 13 December 1999

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  Reverse Flow RIMS ("Lee, Brian")
  RE: RIMS ("C.D. Pritchard")
  calories ain't calories, (Dave Burley)
  Those Deadly Carbs ("scott")
  RIMS (Jonathan Peakall)
  FWH, Carbonate, W1728 (james r layton)
  casking in a Corny ("Sean Richens")
  Re: Type of brewer (Charley Burns)
  good spice info (Jeff Renner)
  Kegs, Kegs, Kegs! ("Glen Pannicke")
  Michael Josephson<cask ale from a corny> ("Gary Barbatelli")
  RE: beer and diet (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Hugh Baird going going gone? ("Mercer, David")
  ...New RIMS idea (Jamie)
  sensor placement (The Holders)
  Re: Guinness Foreign Extra Stout ("tantillo at ichange.net")
  RE: Cask Ale from a Corny ("Sherfey")
  Post-fermentation aeration ("Paul Smith")
  Part II - what kind of brewer ("Paul Smith")
  Coopers Sparkling Ale ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  Full Moon brew (Dave Burley)
  Re: RIMS (RobertJ)
  Re: Evil of Carbs (Montgomery John B DLPC)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 05:22:00 -0500 From: "Lee, Brian" <blee at attcanada.com> Subject: Reverse Flow RIMS A data point on the reverse flow idea: I received my brand new pump the other day, and decided to make my first batch using the theory of reverse flow through the grain bed. I created a quasi-strainer type attachment for the hose that would pick up liquid off the top of the grain bed out of a small plastic container drilled with many holes on the sides and bottom, and one larger hole through the top for the inlet pipe to fit through. The end result: the plastic strainer creation sucked so much of the grain bed to itself it weighed a couple pounds and quickly blocked most of the flow - essentially creating a 'compacted bed' around itself. Until this happened though, the results looked very good...lots of circulation, and I did not notice the 'tunneling' that Doug Brown theorized might happen (HBD #3188), in fact the whole grain bed seemed to be 'in motion' as if you were constantly stirring it. Thus I switched the in and out connections and went to the more traditional flow through the bed. I still think the reverse flow method would be better - but how do we overcome the problems of grain pickup by the inflow pipe? Brian Lee Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:06:03 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: RE: RIMS Ronald La Borde asked: >This has me really wondering, how many of you RIMS'ers really know what the >temperature of your mash is at. Most seem to use a sensor at the outflow >point of the heat exchanger. But, this is a long way from sensing the mash >temperature. How many sense the mash exit temperature? My controller senses the wort temp at both locations. The heater is shut off when the exit temp from the tun is at the desired mash temp. and off if the temp at the heater exit is 2 degF above the desired mash temp. No scorching and no detectable enzyme degradation. If one only controls based on the heater exit temp, the mash will take a very long time to reach the desired mash temp. and will never reach if if one considers heat losses in the system. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:37:16 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: calories ain't calories, Brewsters: I have read comments here to the effect that calories are calories and it doesn't make any difference what you eat. Sorry, but the 18th century concept that your body is a Parr Bomb Calorimeter ( thermochemical apparatus in which calorie content is measured by burning under oxygen pressure) is not correct. Your body apparently does not choose to process everything you eat ( except perhaps carbohydrates). I once read that if this model were correct, then by eating just one carrot a day beyond your calorie output, you would weigh 1200 pounds at 75 years old. Obviously this model is incorrect. It IS true that if you choose the high carb diet then you MUST also not eat fats, if you desire to lose or control your weight. Unfortunately this has many bad effects, most of all a severe reduction in protein intake since fats and protein often go together. Continue and you will eventually experience a loss of muscle if you exercise as you are often instructed. You end up with less lean body mass and lower metabolism and poorer health at the very best. And your weight gain will return faster than ever once you begin to eat normally. This is the well known Yo-Yo effect on which so many diet companies prosper.You can also make yourself very sick. I have no trouble sticking to any diet. I once went on just such a low fat diet under a doctor's care and turned grey, my face sagged, my pep disappeared and I felt terrible and constantly hungry. My long-time Italian barber and friend refused to take any money for cutting my hair, because he thought I was dying and didn't want to get paid to cut the hair of a dead man! Although he didn't tell me that at the time, I recognized the fear in his eyes, went home and tossed out the diet immediately. Because I knew was really sick, even though I had followed the diet to a tee. Self-discipline is not an issue in most dieting, but starvation is. Exercise during dieting is not to burn extra calories as is so often quoted, but to build muscle, so that you end up with a higher rate of metabolism. Pound for pound, muscle burns three times the calories as the same weight of fat. Higher % muscle = higher metabolism rate Weight training is important. Just walking or running is not so important to muscle building, although it does not hurt to have a healthy cardio-vascular system. Low carb diets stress a high protein intake so that you will be able to build muscle during the diet and end up with a higher metabolism rate per body pound at the you finish this diet. You are never hungry during these diets. If you are, your carb intake is too high or you are not eating enough protein. At the end of the diet you experimentally determine your allowed carbohydrate intake and you are able to easily control your weight The message to 3/4 of the population is a low carb diet works and you will not be hungry and can eat interesting foods and stop choking down those interminable salads as a substitute for nutrition. Stop feeling guilty. It is not a self-control issue. Your body is starved for protein and carbohydrates make you hungryon these low-fat diets. When drinking beer, the alcohol does not count as a carbohydrate. Low carb diets are proven to improve high blood pressure, improve adult onset diabetes, reduce GURD ( heartburn, reflux), and increase stamina, especially among atheletes. I always find it interesting that folks who have never tried this diet are the most vocally opposed, often quoting time worn theories that have been proven not to work by millions and millions of Yo-Yo dieters. Sorry, but you are wrong. Those who really know it works are those who have tried it. - ---------------------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 07:16:13 -0800 From: "scott" <Cuckold at cornerpub.com> Subject: Those Deadly Carbs Sorry if beating a dead horse. Jason Birzer was chastising Dave burley's article "The Evils of Carbs": "You go on about "Avoid this, eat that". That always bugs me. I'm a believer in moderation and eating too much of anything isn't healthy. I hate the demonizing of food. It does more harm than good. Knowing what goes into your body and knowing how to eat properly is a skill that isn't taught much in this country. Too many people look for "silver bullets" for good health. It's fairly simple. Have a well rounded diet and regular exercise." I couldn't agree more. My wife laughs at how we Americans eat. Everything has to be big, big, big, or we feel we are being ripped off. E.g.: The 5 pound pizza. Starbucks smallest coffee is called a "tall". Budweiser "pounders". Being in Europe for three weeks this past fall showed me the true results. In France, the everyday fare was fantastic, to die for. Meals are more rounded. Food quality over quantity (BTW, we did not go hungry). Wine with every meal. Dessert! However, if you are ever there, look around. The people are not fat! I saw more skirts in September in Paris, even in women to the age of 60. A far cry from when we came back home to the land of plenty, and the lard most Americans carry around. Heard the latest? "The Bible Diet". Even Oprah devotes every other show to dieting. Like Jason says, if you are reasonably healthy, you can eat ANYTHING YOU WANT! Just do so in moderation, and eat a variety of things. I guess I'm lucky. My wife's German, and our refer is full of Swiss/gouda/camembert cheeses, and sour cream. We just don't eat it all at once. Now if you'll excuse me while I go tend to my 10 gallon batch of beer! Scott http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Salon/3768/Brewery.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:03:57 -0700 From: Jonathan Peakall <jpeakall at mcn.org> Subject: RIMS Ron La Borde says: >> This has me really wondering, how many of you RIMS'ers really know what >>>>the > >temperature of your mash is at. Most seem to use a sensor at the outflow > point of the heat exchanger. But, this is a long way from sensing the mash > temperature. How many sense the mash exit temperature? > > The reason I am skeptical, is because my setup has the thermometer near the > bottom of the mash, and the temperature runs 5 to 10 F below the exit > temperature from the heat exchanger. You have loss from the plumbing to > consider. All the PID's in the world cannot keep the mash within 1 degree F > if the sensing is at the exchanger outlet. > > All of the above is opinion, not proven fact. What say all. I use an RTD probe (hooked to a PID) in my mash tun, which is supposed to read the average temp over the length of the probe, which in my case is 22". I have a couple of digital and regular food type thermometers, and have done a lot of fooling about with them in the mash and have come to the conclusion that with a properly running RIMS that there is less then 1 degree thermoclines in the mash. The moment you stop the pump, however, thermoclines of several degrees appear rapidly. I have always wondered where folks put their probe. What's the consensus? >Nature of the RIMS. With a RIMS, you don't know whether you have >homogeneous mash temperature (unless you use a mixer). My SHMS allows >complete control over the mash temp with no question what the the mash >temp is and also the temperature boosts are quick and precise. With any system you don't know until you check. There seems to be a lot of "This system is best" kinda thing going on in the RIMS thread. There are, as the saying goes, many ways to skin the cat. And so many factors, can you be *sure* that one way is better then others? I know enough about beer to know that there is a hell of a lot more to know. All I can say about my RIMS is that after much tinkering (which I enjoy) it makes fabulous beer that I can reproduce easily. It has strong points and weak points, but it is reliable. I think the same could be said for any well constructed mash system. ******************************************** "I don't feel we did wrong in taking this great country away from them. There were great numbers of people who needed new land, and the Indians were selfishly trying to keep it for themselves." -- John Wayne ******************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:08:34 -0600 From: james r layton <blutick at juno.com> Subject: FWH, Carbonate, W1728 Louis Bonham has gallantly taken the First Wort Hopping ball and is dashing toward the end zone. I'd just like to second (or third) Jeff Renner's suggestion to extend the FWH soak time to 1 hour prior to boil. There _may_ be something going on during this time period which affects utilization one way or another. For the record, I like FWH (in the styles I've tried it). I believe it results in a nicer hop flavor. I also believe that it gives a smoother hop bitterness, not less hop bitterness. The question which initially caught my attention requested info on how to estimate the utilization factor for a FWH addition. Louis' experiment should provide a foundation for a more correct answer to that original question. There was a question a while back on salts which could be used to raise the carbonate content of brewing water. I've been using sodium bicarbonate (good old baking soda) for this purpose. As far as I can tell, it works fine. Any comments? Mike Uchima asked about Wyeast 1728 and smokey flavor. I've used this yeast in a couple of Scottish Exports, fermented around 63F, with only pale ale malt and roast barley in the grain bill. I've never detected any smokey character in these beers. A couple of competition judges said they tasted a slight smokiness but I think they were reaching because the style guideline they were using mentioned it. Jim Layton Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:38:44 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: casking in a Corny I just did my first this way, and my major piece of advice is to do it. Those with experience must have more to say, but I can vouch for the possibility of success on the first try. If you have the type of keg where the spear ends in the centre of the bottom, instead of a little dent along the side, you will have to figure something out to get all of the beer out by gravity. I took a gas-in tube from an idle keg and stuck it in the beer out hole. I primed with 1/4 cup glucose and 20 mL of pre-dissolved isinglass (the kind that sometimes comes with a wine kit), but no dry hops. I vented the pressure for two days, then let it sit. It took a week to clear. I didn't really control the "breather" pressure. I vented pressure if the dispense was too vigorous, and added a "shot" of gas if I was about to pull a vacuum. Now that I'm below the relief valve, I'm dispensing with air, just as an experiment. It's already closer in flavour to a pint in a pub than anything else I've made. Cheers! Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:37 -0800 From: Charley Burns <cburns99 at pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Type of brewer Combination of anal scientific and pragmatist. I start out a brew session being extremely careful and endup just getting it into the carboy with yeast. Sometimes I get lucky and don't infect it along the way. It usually has something to do with how much homebrew I've been sampling along the way. Or scotch. Or port. Or... Charley (posting from new email client that hopefully will go out as text only) I was gone for awhile but I'm back now... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 12:56:28 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: good spice info Brewers I think this page may have been mentioned in HBD before as I have bookmarked an older URL for it, but I wanted to bring it to your attention again, especially for those interested in details about spices that may be used in brewing (such as grains of paradise, which I have used in my ginger wit). It is a very detailed site that can occupy a curious mind for some time. Gernot Katzer's Spice Pages http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katzer/engl/index.html Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 12:55:29 -0500 From: "Glen Pannicke" <gpannicke at email.msn.com> Subject: Kegs, Kegs, Kegs! OK, it's my turn to crow! Being recently engaged I now know one of the reasons why I decided to marry this woman. Aside from the fact that she takes an active (sometimes too much) role in my brewing activities, this beautiful creature has given me a dual 5 gal corny system for my birthday. I will soon be joining many of you HBD'ers who enjoy the benefits associated with corny kegs. So here's my first stupid question regarding them: Has anyone had any success in attempting to use a CIP/SIP-type system for the automated cleaning and sanitizing of homebrewing vessels such as fermenters, bottles, kegs and brewing vessels? Archive searches on this topic were scant, but I'm sure they're out there, so private e-mails from any one with a successful system in place are welcomed. As for 5L mini-kegs I can only speak from my own experience (which has been good). Carbonation of mini-kegs is critically dependent upon 2 things - headspace and priming sugar. I have found that a 1 inch headspace provides reasonably consistent carbonation when 5 gal (19 L) is batch primed with 100 g(approx. 5/8 cup) of dry malt extract, or 100 ml of honey. I can't find my notes on dextrose priming, but Papazian's recommendations for kegging are good. I have only had 2 batches which were overcarbonated causeing massive foaming of the first 3 or 4 glasses. I mean ALL head and no beer! I suspect a number of factors may have come into play: the attenuative properties of the yeast used, variabilities in the fermentability of the priming sugars and innacurate measurement of the headspace. I solved the last problem by using a permanent ink marker to mark my bottle dispenser 1" below the top of the keg and filling to the mark. Use of a flashlight helps to see inside helps ;-) I also suspect the tap as well. Knowing that the Germans are fond of a generous head on their beer, I think the German-designed tap promotes head formation during dispense. Of the two batches I have had foam problems with, one was definately over carbonated. I think the beer shower at tap time was enough to prove it (but I smelled nice). The other one was very dextrinous and dry hopped. I believe both are foam-positive. Possible beer/tap combo here. To seal the kegs I leave the bungs wet with Iodopor to ease the bung in place, turn the bung a little once it's in place and then tap with a rubber mallet to seat. I've re-used the same bungs at least 8 times so far without leaks. Time to change 'em out. $1/bung is not a lot to prevent flat beer. To prevent leaks once tapped, I use a dab of KY jelly on the tip and neck of the CO2 cartridge (leaving myself open to jokes about greasing up with KY and boinking). Don't use vaseline as any petroleum based lubricant will degrade natural rubber seals (if they exist). I tried lithium based grease without incident, but just don't like the idea... I have also found better seals are made with the CO2 cardridges that have a dimpled tip as opposed to the ones with flat tips. As for the tap, get the metal one. It will survive the inevitable drop from the counter to the floor when you're seing double and the guys are screaming for more. Other than my observed 2 out of 13 batches having minor foaming problems (which I probably could have avoided if I was thinking properly) and the 1 or 2 / dozen CO2 cartridges not sealing properly, I have been very pleased with the minis. That's 26 individual fills so far (for those who are counting) since I keg half and bottle half of each batch. You really can't beat it when space is at a premium or when you want a travel-friendly put-up. They even fit nicely in those new insulated picnic bags designed for cans. I cut a hole in the top of one to accomodate the tap and fill the dead space with ice packs. I hope I have been able to help rectify the bad rap minis have gotten over the years. Even with having the new corny system on hand, I plan on sticking with them for medium sized put-ups of light lagers since they save space and can be easily kept on hand during the summer months when the last-miniute partys and picnics are planned. Everyone will love you for it. PS. Kelly, "A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention, with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila." Love the tagline. Killed a case of homebrew empties for target practice one afternoon. Bad hillbilly - go sit in the corner! Glen ================================ Millstone Alehouse alehouse at homepage.com http://alehouse.homepage.com ================================ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 13:08:27 EST From: "Gary Barbatelli" <garybarbatelli at hotmail.com> Subject: Michael Josephson<cask ale from a corny> You'll probably need to cut down a spare dip tube to gas side length. A pressure tester with a needle valve (St. Patrick's of Texas-$12.25) will allow you to moniter pressure and vent excess.Blanket pressure should be VERY LOW, 1 psi if you can manage it. Temperature between 52 & 58 F. Cheers! ______________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:55:47 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: beer and diet From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> >Dave Burley posted a lengthy message yesterday on beer and various dietary >concepts. Unfortunately, much of this information was either misleading or >downright wrong. ..snip.. >As far as beer goes, most of the calories are actually coming from the >ETHANOL not from residual carbohydrates (except for some of the sweeter >styles). Ethanol has more calories than either protein or carbohydrates, >almost as many as fat. >In general, the main factor in weight gain/loss is the balance between total >calories eaten versus total calories burned. I for one do think that Dave's message on beer and dietary concepts, to use an old hackneyed phrase, 'hit the nail on the head'. It is clear to me that he is from the "Sugar Buster's" school of thought, and so am I. How do I know, real life experience! Answer this: If Ethanol has most of the calories, why does non-alcoholic beer still have about the same calories as regular? Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 15:03:51 -0800 From: "Mercer, David" <dmercer at path.org> Subject: Hugh Baird going going gone? My local homebrew shop is buying up sacks of Hugh Baird malt because, the owner tells me, they are pulling out of North America and will no longer be available in the US or Canada. Anybody else heard this? If true, it's not the end of the world, I suppose. There are other good British malts out there. But HB pale ale malt was a house malt in my brewery, and I'd hate to see it go. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 16:58:17 -0800 From: Jamie <jamie at pub-sf.com> Subject: ...New RIMS idea > On 10/08/99 Terry Stinger wrote: > > I have been working on a new design for a RIMS heating chamber. So > far this is only in the design stage. I haven't started to build it. > The recent descussion regarding counter-flow heaters (which I have built, > tested, and replaced - pictures available upon request). I believe > Louis Bohnam mentioned a brewer that is using oil (turned out to be glycol) > as the heating fluid. > > >From this, I was thinking about a new type of heating element. > The design is quite similar to the older wort chillers, the one's with a > copper > coil inside of a 8" PVC shell. But here is the catch, what if the shell was > filled with OIL (maybe even motor oil - very affordable) and an electric water > heating element was mounted into the end of the shell. The heating element > could be just a cheap one from your local hardware. I think the element > would have to be the surface mount kind instead of the screw-in type. > Awwwww man! Just when I thought I had a new and original idea... Looks like everything has been invented at least once already... :) Actually what your thinking of is called a recirculating bath, and is used in various scientific/pharmaceutical/laboratory environments. The real deal has a heating and cooling circuit in a bath of water, and a coil is passed through the bath to heat/cool your liquid of choice. They look really slick, and can be had from places like Cole Parmer for $1,000 - $2,500. I'm in the process of putting together just such a contraption (as time permits - eg very slowly) I've got a 12" long peice of 4" CPVC pipe as a container, and a 1500W electric immersion heater that I salvaged out of a scrap yard (Watlow solid St Stl ~8" long, 1/2" dia,) about 20' of coiled 1/4" OD copper tube to run the proto-wort through, and an Omega PID temperature controller w/a Type K thermo- couple for control. When assembled it looks kinda like a plastic version of a nuclear bomb from a James Bond flick... :) I don't have the numbers handy, but using water as the filler medium between the coils and the heater removes any scortching problems, and the heat transfer is enough to heat up the wort in one pass at about 1 litre/min (using some modified heat exchanger calculations) I haven't taken the thermal mass of the grain into account, but it shouldn't take too long to bring it up to speed, especially if you mix the grain bed. I ran a test of it about a month ago, and it worked pretty well with just a water filled cooler (no grain till I get it working right) Only problem I had was that the heater was screwed directly into the top cap (removable), and the top 1" or so wasn't in the HX medium, and got hot enough to <ahem> melt the CPVC. While you might think *DuH*, typically on those heaters the top 1-2" is dead space (not heated) so you don't have to worry about it. Since mine was a salvaged item, I had no way of knowing it was a special order... Oops. I don't know how an electric hot water heater element would fare, but I would think that there'd be similar problems. I'm currently machining a Stainless extension to drop the heater down far enough that it's fully immersed, and will give it another try over the holidaze. Another option would be to use a copper/stainless pipe instead of PVC/CPVC, but that isn't cheap, and youd want to insulate it. Jamie - -- People who drink light "beer" don't like the taste of beer; they just like to pee a lot! - Capital Brewery, Middleton, WI <---- http://www.pub-sf.com ----> Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 17:51:21 -0800 From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com> Subject: sensor placement Ron asks about sensor placement in PID (proportional, integral, derivative) temperature controlled systems. I agree with Ron, and that's why I have the sensor in my RHEMS (Recirculating Heat Exchange Mashing System) underneath the false bottom in my mashtun. You might get a bit of drift in the temperature at first while the controller tries to figure out the loop, but it settles right in. I've heard that in the Brew Magic systems you actually have to calibrate the controller offset, so it seems that maybe they have the sensor in the wort stream exiting the exchanger. Any Brew Magic owners out there that can comment on this? Diligently spelling out the acronyms, Wayne Holder Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 00:46:55 +0000 (/etc/localtime) From: "tantillo at ichange.net" <tantillo at ichange.net> Subject: Re: Guinness Foreign Extra Stout A recipe for this stout can be found in Protz and Wheeler's "Brew Classic European Beers at Home". Protz and Wheeler tend to underestimate the hop utilization so you might want to recalculate the hop additions. There are probably other clone type recipes published either on paper or on the web. Tony Tantillo tantillo at ichange.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 07:35:52 -0500 From: "Sherfey" <sherf at warwick.net> Subject: RE: Cask Ale from a Corny Michael - I serve via handpump from a corny, and have found that the best pressure is very little pressure. My gage doesn't read that low, and when I add pressure I just crack the valve and then shut it off. The handpump doesn't like pressure and will leak with anything over ~1.0lb. The most important thing with this setup is temperature. If the temperature rises, you'll lose dissolved CO2. I stand the corny inside a homemade styrofoam box with ice on top (a 2 liter soda bottle) and a towel to cover. It helps that I have a cool basement year-round, but in the heat of summer all-weekend parties this thing works just fine as long as the ice is there to keep the temp around 55-60F. Your gravity setup will be somewhat simpler. You could probably use a picnic cooler and replace the drain with a valve hooked to the keg's gas fitting, using the liquid line as gas line. Cheers! David Sherfey Warwick, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 07:40:10 -0600 From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin at msn.com> Subject: Post-fermentation aeration Hello all - recently, after a series of stuck fermentations, repitched with yeast from my brewery. The yeast has a beautiful profile - clean, fruity, and, under normal oxygenation and temperature ranges, performs like a charm. Enter simply splashing wort into my (converted keg) fermentors, and a high OG (16, 17, and 21.5), and the yeast pooped out a couple degrees P early. Though terrified of post fermentation aeration, in talking with one of our cellarmen, an interesting point came up and I'd like the opinion of the HBD community. Provided I racked the beer into a new vessel, reintroducing air with a population of fresh yeast slurry is no problem, according to the cellarman, as the new yeast will rapidly consume it in its respiration cycle. Following this logic one would want to deliberately avoid overpitching to ensure yeast undergo significant growth (and thus O2 uptake). There are only two problems I see with this: (1) the yeast remaining in suspension from the first vessel will freak with the introduction of O2, and may undergo mutation (thus, no repropagation from this batch); (2) alcohol toxicity may stall the new yeast, coming straight from the friendly confines of a Brinks propagator into beer. What say ye? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 07:52:33 -0600 From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin at msn.com> Subject: Part II - what kind of brewer Forgot to mention what kind of brewer I am. In cycles of every weekend, till the fermentors are laid down. I'm very interested in isolating out every characteristic I can think of, so I undergo trials with various parameters - e.g., standard 2-row v. SMC Pale v. SMC Special Pale v. Maris, Pipkin, etc. Similar for hop varieties, additions (IBU's from the whirlpool v. at beginning of boil, etc.) yeasts, and mash techniques and schedules. BTW, I recently changed my sparge technique to "burst sparging" from continuous sparging, and realized a tremendous leap in my brewhouse efficiency - 85% to 93%. Rather than maintaining a constant ~2# column of water on top of the grain bed, I allow the column to get quite low, then "dump" up to 3-4" on top of the bed. You do have to watch your pressure differentials - but thus far I've experienced no problems either with a stuck or free flow lauter. My understanding from Kunze (and talking with brewers I work with) is that this is common practice in a great many breweries. BTW, I like beer, too! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 00:20:52 +1000 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: Coopers Sparkling Ale Have got a recipe here out of Lutzen and Stevens' book "More Homebrew Favourites", the recipe is by Craig D. Amundsen in Minnesota. 19 l batch 120 min. boil sg - 1.058 fg - 1.016 5 weeks in primary (!?!?!?) 4.54 kg 2 row pale 454 g crystal (40 L) 454 g white table sugar 14 g POR pellets 11% fwh 43 g POR pellets 11% 120 minutes Yeast Lab AO1 Aust. Ale yeast 1 cup (275 ml) corn sugar to prime Add 7.1 l of 60 deg water to cracked malt, rest for 40 mins. Add 3.3 l of boiling water to mash, stir until temp. settles at 69 deg., rest for 90 mins. Heat to 77 deg. and rest for 10 mins. Sparge with 19 l of 77 deg water and add 14 g of POR as soon as kettle bottom is covered. Bring to boil, add remaining POR and sugar and boil 2 hours. Chill, pitch and aerate well. Ferment at 16 deg, prime with corn sugar and bottle. Hope it works for you Phil, let us know how it compares. Is there any one else out there who has attempted an all grain clone of South Australias flag ship beer, and is it widely available in North America? THOMAS D. HAMANN Photographer, Brewer and Tenor! Box 53 Hahndorf 5245 South Australia AUSTRALIA (still a dopey constitutional monarchy) Telephone +61 8 8388 7780 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 10:00:18 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Full Moon brew Brewsters: In addition to Odd and Even numbered days providing a good excuse to brew, December 22, 1999 will be the first full moon to occur on a Winter Solstice in 133 years and will be the only one in the next 100 years or so. The moon will appear about 14% larger than at its apogee since this full moon occurs in conjunction with its perigee with earth. The earth is closer to the sun also during winter and will make the moon 7% brighter. As the Scots might say on this night "'tis a Braugh Breckt moonlect nect t'necht, an' yurr awright if ya ken". The last time this happened, December 21, 1866. the Lakota Sioux staged a devastating retaliatory raid on soldiers in the Wyoming territory at night. Sounds like a good excuse to brew instead of going to that crowded mall! Maybe a "Full Moon" Scotch Ale or for those not PC challenged, a "Pale Face Ale" or a "Lakota Lager". - ----------------------------------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 19:45:17 -0500 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re: RIMS "Ludwig's" <dludwig at us.hsanet.net> wrote: Nature of the RIMS. With a RIMS, you don't know whether you have homogeneous mash temperature (unless you use a mixer). My SHMS allows complete control over the mash temp with no question what the the mash temp is and also the temperature boosts are quick and precise. In my experience I would certainly agree with the above. The temperature must be taken in the mash and the mash must be stirred. However, I find that intermittent stirring is more than adequate until you do approach mash temp. During an 8 - 9 min temperature boost I stir for 15 - 20 seconds at 3 and 6 mins and then watch/stir more closely for the last min or so. Continous stirring would eliminate the need for any attention Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://pbsbeer.com Manufacturer of 3 Vessel Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:38:30 -0600 From: Montgomery John B DLPC <MontgomeryJB at ncsc.navy.mil> Subject: Re: Evil of Carbs Jason Birzer wrote: <<...beer can be fattening due to carbs. If you take too much, the body needs some place to store it.>> For another data point on this debate, I thought I had read or heard somewhere that it's the alcohol that compromises the body's ability to metabolize carbs (?) fat (?) rather than the number of carbs in an alcoholic beverage. Anyone have anymore "official" info on this? John M. Return to table of contents
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