HOMEBREW Digest #3209 Fri 31 December 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
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  Mixing with tines (Yorg)
  question: spicey flavor to Munich Lager? (darrell.leavitt)
  Hygrometer Calibration ("Jack Schmidling")
  re: Wacky wisdon, and a toast. (The Holders)
  re: Belgian Doppel Maturity ("Parker, Mike")
  Yeast Culturing (Jacob Bogie)
  Hefe question and GM ("scott")
  Valley Mill Motorization ("John A. Slusher")
  Rehydration, Luddites and GM (Dave Burley)
  CO2 Tank ("Steve Blanchard")
  Wyeast #1084 (John Herman)
  new group for making Sauerkraut ("Alan McKay")
  GMO and "traditional brewing" ("Alan Meeker")
  Prima Pils/Munich Malts ("Jim Busch")
  Canadian Amateur Brewers Association e-mail update ("Rob Jones")
  Coniston Yeast (William Graham)
  First Mash (Calvin Perilloux)
  Re: German Munich ("Frank J. Russo")
  IBUs in kits ("Sean Richens")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 16:33:09 +1100 From: Yorg <yorgsand at netspace.net.au> Subject: Mixing with tines Been lurking, and now its time to post. OK, well I've been reading the mixer dialogue and I 'd appreciate your views on the method I have been considering and its underlying assumptions since it will influence a major purchase. Things seem to be a hell of a lot more expensive here (Australia) than in the US, and I can't help but get goggle eyed about some of the complaints about price I hear on the net from people in the States: "Gee, I couldn't find it surplus so I had to pay $10 dollars for this thingy that clamps to my what's its name. Lucky it also doubles as a pilotless lawn mower, dishwasher, and by removing the that piece on top, also satisfies me sexually". You guys don't know how good you've got it. I guess it just depends on what you're used to Anyway, first some background: I am developing a heat exchanging recirculation system (just being diplomatic about acronyms here). I don't recirculate at anywhere near the velocity that the pumps most people here recommend/use seem to generate, and I have never had a compacted grain bed yet. Given I don't pass wort past a hot element, I can't see why I should be thrashing so much wort about at what seems to me to be breakneck speed. I have been using a self priming pump that doesn't tolerate particulates, but being 12 volts, is speed regulated. Using a coil in the HLT, and recirculating at what I estimate to be around 5lt per minute ( around a US gallon) I get very acceptable ramps of around 1.5 deg C per min (around 2.5 deg F). The system is quite insulated. However, I'm sick of it blocking up, so now I too will become one of the mag drive converted. Your responses will help me make up my mind on the spec of the pump. So here are the assumptions - and the question will follow. Assumption No. 1: Even at this recirculation rate of 5lt per min, if I can ensure no channelling, I should have even temperature distribution in the (insulated) mash tun. Assumption No. 2: A number of tines ( say every 5cm or 2 inches or so) coming off a vertical drive shaft which is attached to a motor above the mash ( like all other mixers basically) should break up any channelling. Assumption No. 3: The RPM is not really critical and would be effective in preventing channelling from above say about 3 RPM, especially if each tine is horizontally opposed by another tine, making an effective RPM of 6. What do you think of these assumptions? If basically correct, can you think of a reason I should not by the 12V mag drive motor like the one "Moving Brews" offer, since I already have a speed controller for it and it has lower recirculation rates without the amount or throttling back or looping back of the outlet needed for the higher speed pumps (more wort thrashing you see)? Thanks for your thoughts, and have a great entry into the new millennium! Yorg. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 07:42:15 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: question: spicey flavor to Munich Lager? I brewed a Munich Lager, using a starter that derived from a Wyeast Munich Lager smack-pack, and while it has only been in the bottle for a month it has a distintively spicey flavor. Could this be from the yeast? I had a hard time keeping the temp down during primary...ie it went up to 60 degrees a few times....does anyone have experience with a spicey flavor with the Munich yeast? ..Darrell <Terminally INtermediate Home-brewer> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 07:29:10 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Hygrometer Calibration Thanks for all the info one humidity. Now the question is, is the salt/water cal method valid at 50F. The first two hygrometers I checked showed exactly 75% at room temp but when I moved the setup to a 40F environment, they read 84%. It sat there for about 12 hours and never moved from 84%. Assuming it is not a valid technique, is there any point in calibrating a hygrometer at 70F if it is to be used at 50F? Are the inaccuracies a function of humidity or temp or both? Beer. js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 06:19:19 -0800 From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com> Subject: re: Wacky wisdon, and a toast. Well, lets see if I can get the last word in on Jack. I doubt it, but here goes. Jack says: >Your approach assumes that power never fails, surges don't happen and electronic gadgets only die on que. The EZDictionary defines "sense" as never assuming the above. Hmmm..the EZDICTIONARY (tm) is a trademark of Zymico, and you must acknowledge that when using the term. ;^) On another note, I'd like to wish all you folks a Happy New Year, whether you're extract partial, all grain, or Rube Goldberg brewing. May your wort run clear! Wayne Holder Long Beach CA http://zymico.web.com *Coming soon* IGOR2000! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:23:05 -0600 From: "Parker, Mike" <mparker at CaseServices.com> Subject: re: Belgian Doppel Maturity >I was inspired by the recent issue of Zymurgy to tackle a Belgian Doppel (sp?). >One item that was not made clear in the article was the length of time for the >brew to mature. Also, I've seen varied opinions over the use of "light" vs. >"dark" Belgian candy. Appreciate all feedback. As in all things, it depends. With belgians, it depends on a lot of things, such as yeast used, gravity, % of gravity from sugars, fermentation temperature profile, open or closed fermentation, hopping rates, whether or not spices were used, etc. Belgian yeasts tend to produce more esters and phenols, but lend authentic flavor and complexity. Multi-yeast ferments also lend authenticity and complexity, but also needs more aging. Higher gravity means longer aging. It also gives more complexity. High % sugars give a cidery, alcoholic quality that needs aging to smooth out. High gravity Belgian ales almost always use malt to get to about 1050, then sugars to push the gravity higher. This keeps the body light while delivering that high-gravity complexity. re Dark vs light candi. They taste about the same, so it depends on the color you're shooting for and how you'd prefer to get there. I tend to use light candi, and in a Dubbel I also toss in a small amount (2 oz) of chocolate malt. Also boil it for 2 hrs or so to give it that coppery tone like Chimay Rouge. The temperature profile also has an effect on the ester production. Belgians are usually fermented at high temperatures, 75 is common and 80+ is not unusual. Wyeast 1214 produces *lots* of banana at high temperatures, but this will age out eventually. I'll probably try the White Labs offering next. With high-gravity belgians you should always repitch fresh yeast at bottling like the commercial breweries do, the yeast in there is just too pooped to give the high carbonation levels needed. Prime more as well, about 1cup/5ga. Lots of belgian beers use coriander, curacao orange, or wilder stuff for spicing, these tend to leave a characteristic aroma and taste for a few months, the aroma ages out in a few months leaving additional complexity without being obviously "spiced". You might want to pick up a copy of Pierre Rajotte's book "Belgian Ale" in the "Classic Beer Styles" series for more detailed info. It's got some fairly gaping holes (as would any book of less than encyclopedia length when dealing with belgian beers), but is chock full of interesting info and tips. Personally, I just make a batch, and try a bottle each month until its ready. Generally it starts getting hard to resist at about 3 months, although higher-gravity ales will improve for years. I've got a high-gravity Gewurtztraminer & Ginger mead (~1.13) that was undrinkable at 1 year, and is now 3 years old with an incredible complexity and *still* improving. I bottled my last Dubbel (a Chimay Rouge clone) back in November. Based on my last tasting, it should be ready sometime in March. A Belgian Pale Ale (similar to Celis Pale Bock) was bottled a month earlier, and is nearly gone. I'm about to make a Belgian Strong Pale Ale (ala Duvel/Delerium Tremens/Celis Grand Cru) that I expect to age for 6 months or more. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 11:00:57 -0500 From: Jacob Bogie <JBogie at outpost.com> Subject: Yeast Culturing NEW TO THIS!!! I'm trying to do this as reasonably as possible and I hope it works... December 25th brought me a very nice Yeast Culturing kit and the slants got inoculated last night! Here is my question... My apartment is cool...around 64 degrees F year round so my starters usually take 2-3 days to krausen, but the yeast slants? Can they incubate and reproduce in this temp? I'm not too worried about it...I turned up the heat to 74 in my bathroom and put the slants and starters up high on the tallest shelf I have. I would assume that ambient temp. is around 72-75 degrees. One other thing...When I "culture" or inoculate a plate to clean the strain...what is the best characteristics to look for in the new yeast colonies? Are there tell tale signs of a bad colony? I have a lot of bottle conditioned yeast to clear out. Thanks for the insight.... BURLY ONE "Riding is about rhythm and flow. It's the wind in your face and the challenge of hammering up a long hill. It's the reward at the top and the thrill of a high-speed descent. Biking lets you come alive both in body and spirit. After awhile the bike disappears beneath you and you feel as if you're suspended in midair." -Gary Klein Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:24:23 -0800 From: "scott" <windsurf at bossig.com> Subject: Hefe question and GM My Hefe's taste all right, but miss that golden yellow thick yeast color, typical of the American commercial version. I allgrain, using Canadian malted wheat. One problem I surmise, is possibly am recirculating too much (HERM's), thus clearing the beer more than I would like. I then typically ferment for a week, then rack for another couple weeks before bottling. I have used both 3056 and 3333. Any thoughts? As far as genetically modified seeds, yes, we have been modifying our food for eons. However, it does start to concern me when science would have us believe they have mastered the science of farming. "Roundup Ready" seeds (not affected by insecticide spray)are already here. Our vegetables/grains have a genetic history that has taken thousands of years. It has been postulated that since big business can't patent this, they will sell you "improved" seeds, guaranteed to get greater yield, and greater disease control, with the goal of selling to you annually, since the crop must be "seedless". This is so concerning to some, that a seed exchange program has been in place for some time. Many organic minded people stock and trade vegetable/fruit seeds that have linages from hundreds of years back. They don't trust the same folks that gave us DDT. OUR FOOD SUPPLY is being manipulated! Luckily, farmers are getting the message REAL quick. Europe and Asia by and large are refusing to buy U.S. grain that has been genetically modified. In a CBS segment I saw, farmers have GM seed in stock, but are definitely leaning towards going non GM if that's what the market desires. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 11:37:01 -0500 From: "John A. Slusher" <jslusher at flash.net> Subject: Valley Mill Motorization Kevin, In response to your question below, I have one of the earlier versions of the Valley Mill that I'm very pleased with. I'm currently in the process of upgrading the adjustable roller to bearings (the latest rev of the Mill that's offered now). Mine is driven 4:1 by a A.O.Smith A.C.Motor (I not sure how old the motor is, or if you can get them anymore...I dug it out of my Dad's shop...but I'm sure you can find an equivalent). See the specs on the motor below. S/N:316P758 SER 2A89 HP: 1/4 TYPE: FH RPM: 1725 Volts: 115, AMPs: 5.1, Hz: 60 Thermally Protected Can be wired to rotated CW or CCW The motor and mill are mounted to a slab of pressboard (compress sawdust glued together) that is formica covered. The two are connected via a V belt (allows for some slippage if a stone or hard grain is encountered...pulleys can be ordered from the McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) online catalog). I adapted a 5 gal plastic carboy to the top of the mill to expand the mills capacity to 25lbs. With this setup I can mill a full grain bill "hands-off" in a couple of minutes (beats the hell outta cranking). Hope this helps in your quest. "Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 04:52:16 -0800 (PST) From: Kevin TenBrink <zzymurgist at yahoo.com> Subject: Valley Mill Motors Hello- I was recently on the receiving end of a new Valley Mill. I am interested in motorizing it and am looking for sources of motors that would be up to the task. My HB shop owner used an old clothes dryer motor. Any Ideas? Kevin Elkhart IN" **************************************************** Twilight Brewing Company Puryeors of award winning beers in Ferndale Maryland John Slusher, Brewmaster jslusher at flash.net http://www.flash.net/~jslusher/crabs **************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 12:13:31 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Rehydration, Luddites and GM Brewsters: Paul Schick reports on one suggested method utilizing first runnings to give his yeast a head start. Because he was commenting on several suggestions, I am not sure from the sentence structure exactly what Paul is recommending, and others may also be puzzled. He suggests the use of a small amount of boiled first runnings to give the rehydrated yeast a running start during the following processing steps for the rest of the brew. A good idea. However, be sure to do three things 1) rehydrate the dried yeast in cool boiled water for 10-15 minutes ( which he did in his earlier submission) and not in the wort directly 2) before boiling, dilute the first runnings to approximately SG = 1.020 to 1.040 3) pour the cool boiled wort back and forth several times or oxygenate another way by air or oxygen. - ---------------------------------------------- I really don't want to get into a heated, emotional argument based on minimum facts of genetic modifications, but I do know that people used to be afraid of automobiles and how they would scare the horses. And they did. And they ( read WE) did pollute the air, make a lot of noise, etc. etc. Nevertheless, our Lifestyle did change mostly for the better for all of us. We live supremely better lives than our fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers, largely because of technological developments. Do things have to change? You bet! Was it always for the better for each of us? No. But in general it was best for all of us, which is how things should be measured. By making use of other technology ( like road building, catalysts, etc.) we were able to manage the automobile negatives and take advantage of the good things. Few of us would go back to the days of horse maintenance, shovelling horse manure, feeding, currying horses, every day whether or not we used the horse. No vacations or leaving the house for long, as we had animals to tend. All for the pleasure to move just at three or four miles an hour while freezing our nuts off in the winter and sweltering in the summer. Side stepping horse turds as we walked down the street, smelling all those crap and urine smells, ( I mean, where was the EPA?) Ask yourself, "If things were so good way back then, why did it change?" Were our forefathers stupid, mindless puppets of giant unthinking corporations? I doubt it. The main economic force in this country both internal and exports is agriculture. This may come as a surprise that it is not airplanes or computers, but agriculture. The major source of growth over the last century in a our economy and lifestyle has been due to agricultural and biological developments. We are on the doorstep of throwing all that away in response to foreign marketing forces I beleieve the major GM issue is one of market protection. Just as the atomic power issue is one of big coal and oil pulling the wool over this country's eyes so they can continue to pollute, GM opposition is an issue developed largely by the agricultural interests, especially in France, to protect their markets from superior, patented US agricultural products. Unfortunately, they, along with the Greens ( who constantly need new issues to fill their coffers), are able to misuse well meaning, but gullible conservatives in their war to protect their markets. Who benefits? Certainly not us, the consumer, but socialist government sponsored agricultural interests - and not even in this country! Think about the recent negative flurry over improving the productivity of milk cows. It used a natural product already occurring in milk. What was the big deal from a scientific point of view? No one has ever shown any negative effect. Nothing, except we could produce milk cheaper than old timey methods. Why the complaints? Marketing and subsidy issues. Result of all this anti market hype from foreign sources? We are producing dairy products at a higher cost than necessary while children around the world and in our own country starve for lack of a cheaper source of dairy protein. Worse, in my opinion, for the good of us all is that research in these areas has been stopped, as we do research and take capital risks based on perceived future profitability. What is the big deal now? Higher yield and pest resistant ( meaning no chemicals need be applied) soybeans. Since soybeans have worked their way into nearly every food over the past century, it should be of concern that these are safe. Is there even a scrap of evidence they are not? Nope. Does that keep this from becoming an issue and having horrendous negative effects on the marketing of these soybeans and supporting new agricultural research? Nope. No information is far better than any information as far as the Luddites and spinners go. Always has been, always will be. Don't make your life decisions on rumor and scare tactics, especially from self interested rumor-mongers. What is the long term effect of this? A screeching halt to research and market development of agricultural and, no doubt, medical research. Do we really want that? I don't think so. I agree that the possibility of developing something "unnatural" is a scary possibility, but we can be thankful that Nature has provided many checks and balances to that issue. We should be ashamed that we are so responsive to unsupported scare tactics without even asking for some proof. I have yet to get any one who objects to GM to provide me with a scrap of evidence that GM is any worse than what Nature provides as a normal course of events. Certainly GM biological material gets far more official and scientific scrutiny than any natural mutation and selection. In that way, it is likely far safer. As to the issue of testing. Who is the right person to decide what tesing is appropriate? Do we need an equivalent to the EPA to protect us? As much as I shudder at the idea, it might not be a bad idea if this would let us get on with the science of improving our daily life with all this wonderful technology instead of hiding our head in a hole. So what of Genetic Modification? Is this a marvel of science which can completely alter our lives for the better? I am sure it is. Foods, medicine, things I can't even imagine, nor can you. Can there be problems? I am also sure of that. What to do? Manage it! Extract the best, eschew the rest. But above all, don't be fooled by self-interested hype. Happy New Beer! Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:34:43 PST From: "Steve Blanchard" <steve_blanchard at hotmail.com> Subject: CO2 Tank I have a question for the collective. I have had an old discharged 10# CO2 fire extinguisher in my basement for about 10 yrs. I was always saving it for something (not sure what at the time) and think I may have found a good use for it. I would like to remove the fire extinguisher components and add a valve to use as a CO2 tank for kegging. My wife is uncomfortable with the idea because of possible toxic additives or contaminants when used as a fire extinguisher and says I may contaminate the homebrew if used as I had planned. I don't wish to start the benzene thread up again. I am willing to buy as new tank if necessary but would like to use this tank if it is suitable for my needs. Any advice is appreciated. Private e-mail is fine. Thanks. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 12:58:58 -0500 From: John Herman <johnvic at earthlink.net> Subject: Wyeast #1084 I have used Wyeast #1084 on several occasions for making Dry Irish Stouts. I also oxygenate, a lot. I have been very happy with my final gravity. I don't have my notes with me, but they were all well within guidelines and tasted great. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 13:25:16 -0500 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: new group for making Sauerkraut Hi folks, I know this is off-topic, but it does involve fermentation. I just created a new egroup for making sauerkraut. Simply go to http://www.egroups.com/ and sign-up to rec-crafts-sauerkraut cheers, -Alan - -- Alan McKay amckay at ottawa.com http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 13:49:27 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: GMO and "traditional brewing" OK, I can't resist a short reply to the GMO thread... Glen Pannicke (and others) have responded along these lines: > ...It's the Zen of > Brewing that does it for me, > so to use a genetically altered yeast in my beer would be similar to > automating my mashing or > going back to extract > I didn't say automation or > extract is bad.... > ...things the "old school" way as much as is conveniently possible... > ...because I want to retain the esthetic quality attributed to a hand-crafted > product made more > through the use of all natural ingredients and the brewer's love of the art > than with high throughput, > super-efficient technology. But how "old" is that school whose methods you want to retain? Are we to go back all the way to the Samarian school where we will have to grow our own grain, slightly mash it, make bread out of it and hope that some wet bread gets innoculated with some freindly fermentative microbes blowing in the wind, saving the resultant "brew" (without refrigeration) in a clay pot that we have hand made? Personally, I don't think I would enjoy drinking the results on a daily basis! Don't get me wrong, I am not advocating total automation of my brewing process - far from it. I don't want a mechanical "me" doing all the work while I'm off doing something else, I actually enjoy the process in the same way that I enjoy fishing even if I don't happen to catch anything. But I do acknowledge the fact that I use /plenty/ of technology in my brewing practice - the thermometer, the stainless steel kettle, the propane cooker, the water out of my faucet, the glass carboys, the vacuum packed hops (refrigerated!), etc, etc, etc, we are positively /swimming/ in the benefits of all sorts of technological advances of which GMO are another example. People will just have to place them in their own perspectives... As far as factory farm chickens go: > Sure, they would make the worst eggs for mass production, but they tasted > damn fine 'cause they > were all natural. There's a fair amount of potential bias in such a pronouncement - the real way to tell is to do a double- blinded taste test on many people. Also, Consumer Reports did an article a little while back comparing "factory farm" chickens to "free-range" chickens and from what I remember the rules for allowing the "free-range" moniker were lax enough that some producers were for all intents and purpoese factory farms but they let their chickens out into a very small enclosed yard for some short amount of time per day or week or whatever. The take home was that just because it may say "free-range" unless you actually check out the supplier you may not be getting exactly what you think! > How did the flesh eating e.coli develop? Farmers using > anitbiotics all the time. > Jim Liddil Hey Jim, I think the flesh-eater was a strain of S. aureus not E. coli... -Alan Meeker Hoarding my eggs for the millenium... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:44:39 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Prima Pils/Munich Malts Pete notes: <now about the Prima Pils by Victory Brewing in Philly. excellent, <so very very smooth. nice and crisp. any ideas on the hops, <hopping, schedule or yeast? it is the one US brewed German style <beer that I have truely enjoyed. any info out there would be great. < you all need to try Victorys stuff - I have had their Old <Horizontal barley wine, their Imperial Stout, Hop Devil IPA, and now <Prima Pils. Wow, what a lineup. Have to get to Philly to sample at <the brewhouse sometime. Thanks for the kind words of support! It really means a lot to hear supportive comments like these from the more hard core beer fans. After all, Victory was founded from original homebrewers who learned the craft in the fine micros like Degroens and Dominion as well as drinking and training in Germany. The brewhouse was designed to perform decoction mashing for continental lagers (but works great for American and Belgian ales too) but also using whole flower hops. Its my opinion that the wonderful aromatics evident in HopDevil and Prima are a result of using whole hops and a hopback as well as the careful watching of Ron and Bill. BTW, Victory is located in Downingtown, Pa, about 35 miles west of Philly. Directions are on the web site. Heres some pointers on making a homebrewed version of Prima Pils: Prima is slightly higher OG than the traditional German pils, aim for around 13P. A grist of 100% pils malt from Germany or the Czech republic would be good. Perform a multi step mash or decoction according to the malt specs, ie if needed. Take care to avoid oxygen pickup during mashing and lautering. Hopping is around 50-60 BUs, you can choose to use all noble hops if you can fit all the hops in your kettle, or start with a higher alpha kettle hop like German Perle or Northern Brewer and follow up with the traditional flavor and aroma hops such as Hallertau and plenty of Saaz. Do not dry hop pils and be sure to boil the last hop addition for at least 5-10 mins. Use a huge starter of clean lager yeast, a one gallon starter can be allowed to complete and take the slurry from that for 5-6 gals. Oxygenate to saturation by injection/bubbling pure O2. Ferment cool, keeping below 50F. Lager 5-6 weeks at 31F. I believe it was also Pete who asked about Weyermann's Munich malts and poor extraction. Without knowing your mashing program its somewhat difficult to guess a cause but possibly one can look at too short or no beta rest as a culprit. Or lautering. I have brewed several beers with this malt and its worked fine for me, I usually dough in around 132F and rest at 144F, 156F and mashout at 170. Prost and Happy New Year to all! (I'll be welcoming in this New Year with lots of Prima and a touch of Golden Monkey, yeah!!) Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:27:54 -0500 From: "Rob Jones" <robjones at pathcom.com> Subject: Canadian Amateur Brewers Association e-mail update Hi All, Below is the e-mail update for CABA. Thought it could be of interest to a few not in the loop. For you brewers South of the border note the AHA First Round for the GCHC in May. Cheers, Rob Jones CABA Secretary http://realbeer.com/caba/ Things to look for in the mail soon; renewal forms and the March In Montreal Competition entry form. Renewals: CABA has finally raised our membership fees. It has been a while since our last increase. A one year membership has gone from $21 to $25, while a two year membership remains at $40. No change to Corporate Memberships. March In Montreal: The dates have been set, March 4 is the entry deadline while the event will be held on Saturday March 18. Entry forms should be in the mail by the first week of January. Registration forms for the event will follow towards the end of January with the first issue of the CABATimes for 2000. The Great Canadian Homebrew Coonference will once again be held at the Royal Canadian Legion in Etobicoke. The date is set for May 13. Look for a list of speakers in the next CABATimes. We are planning a Friday May 12 Pub Crawl and a Sunday May 14 Brunch so book the whole weekend off! Once again the Great Canadian Homebrew Competition will act as a First Round for the AHA's National Homebrew Competition. Entry deadline will be April 29, 2000. The Edmonton Homebrewers Guild are working out the details for the 2000 Aurora Brewing Challenge. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 13:23:08 -0700 From: William Graham <geeks at att.net> Subject: Coniston Yeast Zymurtistas - Looking for different, yet good yeast ( and, well, free ) I decided to grow what I found on the bottom of a bottle of Coniston's Bluebird Bitter, winner of The Best Beer in Britain, or some such award. I have stumbled around and somehow got some yeast growing, and the beer tastes OK ( i.e.., nothing grossly wrong ). However, this stuff is the most flocculent stuff in existence - when I shake up the growler, all I get are plastic-y looking chunks floating around. So, seeing as this yeast is heavily flocculent, do any 'o you think this is merely a "priming" yeast, and one I should probably not brew with ( and expect good "English" qualities )? Bill In Golden, Colorado, home of the "Golden City" brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 16:31:23 -0500 From: Calvin Perilloux <peril at compuserve.com> Subject: First Mash Dave Clark asks about methods for his first mash: >Will I be better off doughing in in the lauter tun, mashing and sparging >or should I mash in a large pot on my stove and transfer to the lauter >tun for sparging? As a first mash, I'd say take it easy, and the easiest way is to mash it in the large pot and then transfer it over. If you overshoot the strike temperature, you'll have to correct with a cold water infusion in either vessel, but if you undershoot it, it is very easily corrected in the pot with heat applied (and stir to avoid scorching!) without diluting the mash, as you'd have to do in the lauter tun (unless you have a snazzy all-metal lauter!). As for the Hot Side Aeration demons, I personally think that the first mash gives to many more opportunities for botching things up for you to to worry about HSA. And that said, the surface area and oxygenation of a big "glop" into the lauter tun are minimal compared to things like splashing wort in small dribbles as you sparge. So worry not at all about that. >What about "mashing out"... (in transfer from pot to lauter tun) You will have some temperature drop. I wouldn't propose overheating for the mashout, though, since when I've used that mash-then-dump method, I didn't encounter any trouble with it, even when my sparges ran significantly colder than I'd hoped. Less extract, sure, but again, you've got many other things to worry about on the first mash. Just get the basic procedure down, and you can refine it later, moving to infusion in the lauter vessel when you feel comfortable. Calvin Perilloux Staines, Middlesex, England Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:32:43 -0500 From: "Frank J. Russo" <FJRusso at coastalnet.com> Subject: Re: German Munich >>From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: German Munich << Pete, Just for my own interest I plugged in your grain bill into my own calculator and here is what I came up with, I changed your % > #'s I would have preferred to of had the weights of the grains used: 5 gals : 6.2# Weyermanns Munich .3# German crystal 2.1# wheat 1.5# 2 row pale 10 # grain bill 2#/gal Theo O.G. 1.077 at 68% eff > 1.053 at 58% > 1.044 IBU = 70 Color 8 (1-25) Frank Havelock, NC "There is only one aim in life and that is to live it." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:52:04 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: IBUs in kits To reply to John P.: ...My opinion or thought is that the hops are already isomerized in the hopped malts so boil gravity doesn't affect utilization like it would if you were adding an equivalent amount of hops (HBUs). I would love to see others opinions or this... MHO: For 90% of kits I agree completely. The trick is that a few kits seem to have sufficient dissolved but unisomerized AAs to gain considerable bitterness. There may be hypotheses more consistent with known theory than that, but that's my observation. ...Anyway I wish the hopped malts would use a bitterness rating like Morgans rather than using BUs... MHO: Hear, hear. ...Some extract producers use EBUs or IBUs and some don't. Also, I think you can find a rating of some hopped malts at the brewery library... MHO: and in one of the books, but I can't remember which one. MHO: And I won't even get started on GMOs. I couldn't stay on topic for the first sentence. I'll just say my mind is open. Maybe they're safe, maybe not. You go first and let me know in 20 years if it was safe. Sean Return to table of contents
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