HOMEBREW Digest #3212 Tue 04 January 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Genetic modification / Munich malt extraction / Kraeusenless starters / early racking ("George de Piro")
  CO2 Bottles ("Sandy Macmillan")
  Aspirin Beer (Eric R Lande)
  yeast culturing/flocculant yeast from bottle ("Alan Meeker")
  CO2 fire extinguisher reuse ("Bruce Garner")
  FOR - Friend of Rodney (David Sweeney)
  Rims ("Jack Schmidling")
  Re: Feelings on early racking? (Jeff Renner)
  Bottling day (Matthew Comstock)
  Luddites, GM and French Ag Marketing (Dave Burley)
  HERMS and hard piping ("Micah Millspaw")
  Racking and Oxygen ("Paul Smith")
  Too much head (MarvPozdol)
  Competition announcement (John Larsen)
  Old Peculier Recipe Clone sought ("Franklin.Tom")
  1999 was a very good year (Edward Seymour)
  tannins ("Paul Niebergall")
  Use of Irish Moss and Break Bite (MIKE BRANAM)
  Re.:  Feelings on early racking ("Sean Richens")
  Laglander Dry Malt Extract & Yeast Starters (JDPils)
  Lack of Krausan (Bob Wilcox)
  Robin, telling it like it is (AlannnnT)
  Dave Burley And His Cubby House Brewery ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  Beer Haiku! And a friend returns... (Pat Babcock)
  reusing Co2 fire extinguishers ("Don Van Valkenburg")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 01:30:51 -0500 From: "George de Piro" <gdepiro at mindspring.com> Subject: Genetic modification / Munich malt extraction / Kraeusenless starters / early racking Hi all, Glen Panicke writes: "Say that I were to genetically manipulate a strain of yeast to contain a plasmid which facilitates this AA production, then I might not have as much to worry about regarding my FAN levels. My beer might be better due to the reduced diacetyl even though my wort has a low FAN content. This new strain might make for better tasting beer. It might enhance the fermentation rate and improve my yeast's quality of life ;-)" Back to me: It might also out-compete all yeasts in the wild and end up being the only choice you have for brewing. It would spell the death of Lambic! While that may be a bit of hyperbole, it is something that has not always been considered when modifying plants and such. Unlike the traditional process of selective breeding that people have practiced for centuries, one can use modern molecular genetics techniques to insert genes into an organism that would not otherwise get there. Multicellular organisms are complex things. Altering one bit of their biochemistry can have unforeseen (and undesirable) effects. Even the seemingly innocent act of inserting a gene for insect resistance into a potato plant can have grievous environmental consequences. Will the insects that normally eat that plant all die, or will some individuals that are resistant to the plant toxin live to reproduce, creating a new breed of resistant insect? This isn't science fiction, it happens in the real world. People tend to ignore the big picture for short term benefit. Why not? We have relatively short lifespans. Our mistakes will be somebody else's problems... - ------------------------ Enough ranting, on to beer: Pete C. from Albany asks if it is normal to get poor extraction from Munich malt (Weyermann, specifically). No, it isn't. The specs for coarse grind extract for either light or dark Weyermann Munich malt are only a couple of percent lower than their Pils malt. One can expect a less attenuable (is that a word?) wort when using large quantities of high-kilned malts, but extract doesn't suffer too much. As Jim Busch wrote, too high a mash temperature will reduce extraction, but I have found that mashing in as high as 152F will yield good results. - ---------------------- Brian Dixon asks about Kraeusenless starters, wondering if it is OK. This has happened to me a couple of times, and I have no idea why (useful, huh?). I used the yeast anyway, and the resulting beer was fine. If I ever figure out why this occurred I'll let everybody know. - --------------------- Brian also asks about early racking to remove the cold break. I do not advocate this for several reasons: Firstly, it is extra work, and I am basically a lazy person. Secondly, the benefit of cold break removal is quite arguable. Many (I dare say most) commercial and homebrewers don't remove cold break and make very good beer (or if it is bad, it is for other reasons). Thirdly, this added step can be potentially harmful to the beer. If fermentation is already going, the extra aeration will not be desirable (sure, the yeast will love it, but your primary fermentor is not the place to be growing yeast). You also risk contamination of the wort by adding an extra transfer. As a homebrewer, I occasionally removed cold break and never noticed a benefit. As a commercial brewer, I have not tried to remove cold break and have not noticed any deleterious effects on beer flavor. Ultimately, the choice is yours. Have fun! George de Piro C.H. Evans Brewing Company at the Albany Pump Station (518)447-9000 Malted Barley Appreciation Society Homebrew Club http://hbd.org/mbas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 12:36:03 +0300 From: "Sandy Macmillan" <scotsman at kems.net> Subject: CO2 Bottles Kurt wrote 20 lb C02 bottle. How different are the fittings? Did you need anything special to adapt it? Hydro test sounds like a good idea. I have used several CO2 bottles successfully. A machine shop is required to tap a different thread into the extinguisher to take a standard CO2 valve. Hydro test is also a must for your own safety and also your supplier may well refuse to fill it until he sees the test result. Costs will vary but mine were as follows Hydro test to 3500 psig US$ 15 Machining US$ 15 New CO2 vale US$ 30 Sandy Macmillan Brewing in a dry place Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 08:04:26 -0500 From: Eric R Lande <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Aspirin Beer In HBD #3211 Brian Dixon says that "My last batch had what I describe as a _very slight_ aspirin bitter note to it." Brian, you're a genius! Now you can drink all you want and never have to worry about a headache again. Also, your beer may reduce your risk of a heart attack. And now you can drink beer when you are sick and it will reduce your fever. But don't drink it on an empty stomach or it might eat your stomach lining. :-) Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Brewery to be named when I finish it Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 08:28:23 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: yeast culturing/flocculant yeast from bottle Jacob asked some questions about yeast culturing: > My apartment is cool...around 64 degrees F year round so my starters usually > take 2-3 days to krausen, but the yeast slants? Can they incubate and > reproduce in this temp? Sure, in fact it is probably safe to say that growing your slants at cooler temps is a better practice than growing them at temps that are too high. > One other thing...When I "culture" or inoculate a plate to clean the > strain...what is the best characteristics to look for in the new yeast > colonies? Are there tell tale signs of a bad colony? I have a lot of bottle > conditioned yeast to clear out. Colony morphology will vary from strain to strain but in general what you really want to see is consistency across the plate. The colonies should all show similar size, color, texture, shape, etc... guys who are "outliers" are likely to be either mutants or contaminants and should be avoided! - ----------------------------- William Graham has some strange flocculent yeast cultured from a bottle: >However, this stuff is the > most flocculent stuff in existence - when I shake up the growler, all I > get are plastic-y looking chunks floating around. > So, seeing as this yeast is heavily flocculent, do any 'o you think > this is merely a "priming" yeast, and one I should probably not brew > with ( and expect good "English" qualities )? Bill, I had the same experience with yeast cultured from a bottle of Otter Creek last year. The conclusion I came to was that this was a wild yeast contaminant. I'd be very careful in trying to use this yeast, if your going to do it you might want to do so with a small test batch... -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 07:51:17 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: CO2 fire extinguisher reuse Kurt writes: "I'm ashamed to say I never thought of this. I have an old fire extinguisher that' about the size of a 20 lb C02 bottle. How different are the fittings? Did you need anything special to adapt it? Hydro test soujnds like a good idea." Kurt, When the fire extinguisher stuff have been taken off you have nothing but a metal bottle with threads inside the top. You need to buy a valve assembly and a regulator. When you take the cylinder to be refilled you leave the regulator at home. A hydro test is cut and dry. It will be needed if the last one stamped on the top is out of date. Because of the laws and the safety issue for the people that fill the cylinder and carry it out to you to pay, the CO2 supplier will not fill it otherwise. Most of the CO2 suppliers in Madison, WI can supply used cylinders, install new valves, regulators and do hydro testing. I got my cylinder at a wholesaler of fire fighting equipment and my valve, testing and gas at a welding supplier. The regulator was from a homebrew shop. One of the reasons an extinguisher cylinder may show up on the used market is that its hydro test is expired. Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 08:14:35 -0600 From: David Sweeney <David at stulife2.tamu.edu> Subject: FOR - Friend of Rodney >>>Has anyone ever met Mr. Morris? It would be an interesting discussion if he would care to visit us here on the HBD. Please invite Rodney to join our discussion of the evolution of this "Rube Goldberg business of complicating something that is inherently simple", AKA RIMS, if you know him or somebody who does.........<<< Rodney lives here in College Station, Texas. I've met him lots of times at beer tastings and such. I'll see if I can't locate him and ask him to join in the fray. David Sweeney Adaptive Technology Services Texas A&M University David at stulife2.tamu.edu <mailto:David at stulife2.tamu.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 07:59:29 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Rims This bounced so if it shows up twice, ignore it... From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com> >Well, lets see if I can get the last word in on Jack. I doubt it, but here goes. Nice try but even if I was wrong I would have to acknowledge my mistake. Jack says: >>Your approach assumes that power never fails, surges don't happen and electronic gadgets only die on que. The EZDictionary defines "sense" as never assuming the above. >Hmmm..the EZDICTIONARY (tm) is a trademark of Zymico, and you must acknowledge that when using the term. ;^) One does not need to be a lawyer to see that the Zymico trademark is not the same as mine. Note upper case use throughout. You will also note that the trademark on the MALTMILL is based on all upper case. It sort of a jobs program for lawyers. js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:11:47 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Feelings on early racking? "Brian Dixon" <briandixon at home.com> asks >I've often considered racking after about 8 to 24 hours into a primary >ferment to take the wort off the bulk of the trub, but hesitate because I've >read that the fatty acids in the trub are beneficial to the yeast. It just >seems 'good' that the primary would only be exposed to good clean yeast >sediment once the growth period of the yeast is over, and I believe (if >memory serves) that the fatty acids are only helpful up through the finish >of the growth period. Thoughts? If I want to try a first racking that is >to take place as soon as exposure to the trub (non-yeast sediment portion of >it) is not helpful anymore, then when should it take place? Is this a good >idea, or a bad idea? Why? I've done this in the past for several reasons and was pleased with the results. This is part of what "dropping" beer is - a traditional British practice in some breweries. In dropping, the racking is done with vigorous aeration, which some yeasts require, at high kraeusen. It can also result in elevated diacetyl, which is part of some house styles. The other reson for dropping is just what you suggest - removing the beer from the trub. This results in very clean sedimented yeast for repitching. I understand that this is also done in some German lager breweries after ~8 hours, although I think it may be before pitching. I don't bother now for several reasons. I don't care for diacetyl (it can be done without aeration, though, and so this is not an inevitable result), and I use top cropping ale yeasts, so I get clean yeast that way. Besides, since I recirculate through a hop bed while I'm immersion chilling, I get very little trub carried over to the fermenter. Sorry about your aspirin-like bitterness. Wonder if it might be oxidation? Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 06:44:03 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: Bottling day Howdy, Thought I'd tell you all a story. I think it is too long to post so I put it here: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Canyon/8431/story.html Also, a tip for idiots like me who forget to take a gravity reading before sealing up the fermenter. It is not perfect, but it probably will work if you do full-wort-boils. I never get all the liquid transferred into the fermenter, especially if I siphon it in. I just read the OG from this left over wort. But it usually has a ton of sludge in it. I filtered the liquid through a paper towel set inside a wire mesh kitchen strainer. It gave me moderately clear wort and a gravity reading. Enjoy the story. Laugh at my mistakes. Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 10:13:22 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Luddites, GM and French Ag Marketing Brewsters: I didn't call anyone a Luddite. But, Robin, if the shoe fits... Maybe we should all live in the city so we can take those inefficient buses which convert polluting coal to electricity at a certain efficiency and then convert electricity to mechanical motion at a further loss of energy or maybe ride those stinky, polluting diesel buses. How could cows be hurt by a product they already produce? Let's see the proof and not rumor. None exists. As far as your explanation about how farmers will be poorer as a result of these developments, explain to me why the Brazilians are surreptitiously ( and against the law) growing GM soybeans using this latest technology. Is it to lose money and go to jail? How many Monarch Butterflies do you know that pollinate corn? Answer: None. I was perusing Wheeler and Protz' "Brew your Own British Real Ale" looking for brewing inspiration and came across this on Page 76: "The French, in characteristic style started a smear campaign against British beer, probably because it was seriously affecting the wine industry. In 1852, a certain M. Payer, a French government chemist, publicly declared that the British brewers were using Strychnine as a hop substitute. The French Strychnine manufacturers backed up his claim by confirming that they did indeed export considerable quantities of strychnine to the brewers of Burton-onTrent. Other French scientists claimed that it is impossible to make beers of such soundness and clarity without strychnine.( Does it sound like the French had a technology gap in brewing? DRB). This was eventually disproved, but at coinsiderable damage to the reputation of British beer both at home and abroad." If you have ever tasted French beer, you may now understand why it tastes like crap. They reject any new developments out of hand, but worst of all they try to destroy better products which they can't make. AND the French government supports them. The Appellation Controllee is a classic example of market control in which the volume of wine entering the market is controlled by a strict acreage limit and to the benefit of a few powerful chateaus who were in political control in the 1850s. Only the developments in the US which ignored French "terrior" arguments proved we can make better wines. Now French winemakers are racing to catch up. But they didn't for over a hundred years, because it was not to their benefit. The result: crappy wines from France for most wine drinkers. It is changing today because of technology improvements. Things haven't changed much have they? Mad cow disease, milk, soybeans, wine, cheese... anything to maintain or capture a market position even if it means outright lies, robbing the consumer of better and cheaper products and destroying reputations. The French have been doing it for centuries. Today's Rumor ( er... News) Media helps them along immeasurably. The real danger here is that such marketing tactics will set back beneficial developments for decades if not longer. Get some facts on a subject before you make up your mind. Just because you don't know something, doesn't mean it is not known. Do some research. It won't hurt as much as you might fear. Maybe it won't be as much fun as criticising without facts, but you will be able to make intelligent decisions about your life. Did you know the word "gullible" is not in the dictionary? Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley . Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 09:15:52 -0600 From: "Micah Millspaw" <MMillspa at SILGANMFG.COM> Subject: HERMS and hard piping A while back I posted an offer for a ppt file about my HERMS. Many of the requestors asked for additional info about the rest of the system. (thanks to all for the positive feedback) I had some free time and complied a file about the hard piping for the whole setup. As before, just email your request and I will send it. This time the file size is much smaller and in html format. Also if you could not get the first HERMS ppt because of the large file size, it too is now in available html. Micah Millspaw - brewer at large Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:58:45 -0600 From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin at msn.com> Subject: Racking and Oxygen Brian writes: >>If I want to try a first racking that is to take place as soon as exposure to the trub (non-yeast sediment portion of it) is not helpful anymore, then when should it take place? Is this a good idea, or a bad idea? Brian, in my opinion, I think you are right to lean towards getting your beer off the flocculated portion early. Yeast will utilize the fatty acids during the respiration phase, but oxygen is your true key to "clean" growth, not fatty acids (clean meaning that the respiration will not also involve the production of off-compounds, as with a "fatty acid" respiration). All that's happening with your flocculated yeast is that they are dying - kicking up your pH, kicking out guts in a frenetic attempt to stay alive, and thus kicking out off flavor. Gruesome! That being said, at the brewery where I worked we used to allow a three day ferment, then we dumped the yeast (out the bottom of a unitank - we also dumped on day 9). Keep in mind that the pitching volume, oxygenation, and yeast viability/vitality was such that at the end of three days fermentation was pretty much over. In other words, although the yeast is doing no good, there is probably little harm in waiting a short period post-ferment. Additionally, unless you have a completely closed fermentation/racking system, you risk allowing in contaminants to a fertile environment if you rack too early. Allowing the beer to settle down to a lower gravity prior to racking will mitigate against contamination during transfer, due to the higher ethanol, the greater production of dissolved C02, and the lower pH. Cheers, Paul Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 11:44:27 EST From: MarvPozdol at aol.com Subject: Too much head IFrom Marv Pozdol Cleveland, Ohio I am not into the grain mashing etc that most of you are doing. I am still using kits and do not intend to go into mashing in the near future. Lately, my American Amber and American Lite have too much of a head. Lots of foam in glass and sometime the head "eases" out of the bottle. What may cause this? I find most posting interesting but well beyond my experience. Thank you. Marv Pozdol at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 12:33:43 -0500 From: John Larsen <jlarsen at nxus.com> Subject: Competition announcement This is to announce the Big Bend Brew-Off 2000, an AHA-sanctioned competition presented by the North Florida Brewers League of Tallahassee, Florida. We will be using the 1999 BJCP style guidelines. Judging will take place on Saturday, January 22, 2000 at the Buckhead Brewery and Grille in Tallahassee. Entries will be accepted between January 3, 2000 and January 14, 2000. To obtain the official rules, including shipping address, fees, etc. and to print out a copy of the entry form, go to our web site at www.tfn.net/~northflo/bbo.html. To obtain a copy of the 1999 BJCP style guidelines, go to www.bjcp.org. If you want to judge or steward, contact me by e-mail and I'll have the judge director contact you to provide pertinent details. This is our 4th year running this event and it has turned into a nice competition. We expect to have 125-150 entries this year. John Larsen President, North Florida Brewers League Organizer, Big Bend Brew-Off 2000 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 13:43:19 -0500 From: "Franklin.Tom" <frankli1 at niehs.nih.gov> Subject: Old Peculier Recipe Clone sought Hi All, I've searched the web and the HBD archives for an Old Peculier Clone, but I haven't found a recipe with high reviews. Anybody out there have a recipe (using Treacle) they highly recommend? Many thanks in advance! tom Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 11:40:39 -0800 (PST) From: Edward Seymour <eseymour at yahoo.com> Subject: 1999 was a very good year Greetings all, Happy New Year. Now that the "Millennium Bug" has passed and most of us (including the HBD server) have been unscathed by it's presents, I wanted to update all on my 1999 brewing accomplishments. First off I started brewing after receiving a graduation gift from my wife (thanks honey) in April. After my second batch, I wanted to try my hand on all grain brewing. My first all grain was brewed in my new dedicated brewery in time for Fathers day. After some disappointments (back in HBD #3063) I have made some nice beer according to everyone who has consumed it (Thanks to the members of the HBD). One of the things that I discovered was that my manifold was sitting on the bottom of the mash turn. Actually it was designed to sit on the bottom but after dumping the grain into the compost heap and a thorough cleaning I lost the elbow that made it sit on the bottom. I was starting a new batch when I noticed that it was missing. By raising it up 1 inch has increased my efficiency dramatically. I have tried a 3 step decoction, a two hour sparge, and a batch sparge with efficiencies in the mid seventies using the same grain bill as HBD 3063. Something that I have done over the holidays is to add a web page for my brewery. It shows how I built my all grain brewery for about $125.00 USD. It might give someone an idea of how to build one of their own. It can be found at: www.geocities.com/eseymour/brewery.html Thank you everyone for all of your help in getting a rookie into all grain. Santa left me a nice REAL nice present under the tree, a super deluxe MALTMILL with gears, adjustment knobs, and a clear plastic window to see the grains get crushed. Thanks Jack for making such a terrific product. I know that this is more machine than I'll ever need, but the homebrew shop was selling MALTMILL's like hot cakes for Christmas, and this was the last one they had. Now off I am to buy my grain in bulk. Regards, Ed Seymour Head Brewer, lonely bottle washer. Hamden CT. I don't know how far that is from Beer Mecca (Jeff Renner's house). __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 14:59:17 -0600 From: "Paul Niebergall" <pnieb at burnsmcd.com> Subject: tannins Kurt Goodwin writes about leaching tannins in response to something that I wrote about tannins: >I've tasted the runoff when it gets below 1.010 (down to 1.002 on one >disasterous day, in fact), and I'd have to say that it DOES taste like >weak tea - and NOT like a small amount of malt extract disolved in >water. The former has a certain not-great taste (astringency) that >resembles leaving tea leaves in a cup too long and is noticably >different than the weak sweetness the latter provides. I cant argue with what you perceive with your taste buds. If you want to believe that you can taste leached tannins in dilute wort, that is completely fine with me. What I do object to, however; is people who claim that a perceived taste is PROOF that tannins are leached from grain if you let the lauter runoff drop below 1.010, AND more importantly, that this has a negative impact on the final quality of home brew. My original post was in response to Mr. Alexander who gave some decent scientific information concerning tannins in beer. However, he prefaced his position by offering purely anecdotal evidence that tannins are a problem when sparging with a low gravity runoff. The evidence is based solely on his ability to detect what is perceived as tannins just by tasting the dilute runoff. Because of this, we end up with the impression that it is common knowledge that anyone who is foolish enough to let his lauter run below 1.010 will leach tannins and that thus ruin his beer. Do you see the flaw in this type of thinking? The problem is that dilute wort looks and tastes very much like watery sweet tea, regardless of the tannin content, specific gravity, or pH. This makes it difficult to make a rational judgment. I am willing to wager a very large amount of leftover millennium barley wine that if I were to hand most home brewers a cup of warm dilute wort and made some brief mumblings about tannins and tea, they would start to perceive tannins also. Even if I made the solution from dried malt extract. It is only human nature. Home brewers desperately want to believe that they can taste flavor components at the part per billion level and various faults in beer due to bogey men like tannins and HSA. This gives them a sense of control, a superiority over their fellow (common) homebrewers who do not have the fine taste or skill to perceive such things. I dont believe anecdotes unless the effect has been repeated enough times to actually become common knowledge. With regard leaching tannins in low gravity runoff, I just dont think that this has been the case (or even begins to qualify as a common occurrence). Also dont forget that the supposed leaching of tannins actually having an impact on the final quality of the beer is even more questionable than whether the tannins leaching or not. In lieu of an anecdote being repeated enough times to be beyond a reasonable doubt, scientific information can be useful. So, where is all the scientific evidence that lautering below 1.010 leaches tannins that have a negative impact on beer? happy brew millennium, Paul (I got your tanneriods right here) Niebergall Burns & McDonnell pnieb at burnsmcd.com "Illegitimis non carborundum" Return to table of contents
Date: 03 Jan 2000 17:24:16 -0500 From: MIKE BRANAM <Branam.Mike at bei.bls.com> Subject: Use of Irish Moss and Break Bite I have been using Irish Moss in the beers I have been brewing. I have been given some break bright by a local Brew Master. The question is do you guys who use Irish Moss or Break bright filter or siphon off the wort before it goes in the carboy or let the Irish moss go into the carboy. The reason I ask is I have been transferring the whole thing Irish moss and all to the carboy. I have not found anything that says one way or the other. It just says to add it to the boil 15 minutes before completion. I would like to filter the wort to remove any hop particles but do not want to remove the Irish moss if it is suppose to stay in the wort. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 16:19:01 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Re.: Feelings on early racking Brian asks about using a 'starter tank' or racking during the 8-24 hour period after chilling and presumably pitching. I do this for some lagers, especially if the recipe is very simple. It works OK, but I do notice a slightly slower start. In principle the cold break benefit can be traded against better oxygenation. I just thrash my (very cold) dilution water, so I'm sure I could do better. I'm always afraid of racking off yeast, particularly with lagers, so I try to catch it exactly as lag phase turns to early krausen. My reasoning is that once CO2 production starts, the sediment is going to be stirred up anyway, so it's too late. So my contribution is "yes, it works, but be sure to aerate to saturation." I don't aerate at the 8-12 hour racking. Does anyone know if that would be a good or a bad idea? Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:42:08 EST From: JDPils at aol.com Subject: Laglander Dry Malt Extract & Yeast Starters Brain, I had this experience too with Laglander extract and threw away my yeast starters. (I had a couple carboys to rack, so I had other yeast available). When I asked the owner of a local brew shop a couple years ago, he told me not to use Laglander for starters because he had the same problems. I have been usuing M&F since and never had the same issue again. I hope this helps, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 16:10:14 -0800 From: Bob Wilcox <bobw at sirius.com> Subject: Lack of Krausan Brian I think the lack of Krausen is due to the Laaglanders dry malt. It has less fermentables then most other dry malts. I found out when I used it for priming a batch. Never did carbonate right. I got Ray Daniels book as a gift and just look it up. Laaglanders 44.4% Fermentability Munton spray dried 59.5% Fermentability I think the Laaglanders is the problem. Bob Wilcox Long Barn & Alameda Ca bobw at sirius.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:12:12 EST From: AlannnnT at aol.com Subject: Robin, telling it like it is I > Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca> > Subject: re gm Hey Robin, Relax man, have a homebrew. Pollution and starvation make us all angry. That's why we talk about homebrewing here, to forget the world's problems and have some fun (geeky fun, but fun none the less). Alan Talman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:25:53 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Dave Burley And His Cubby House Brewery Sorry about the subject matter, I'm sure Dave won't mind. I do remember Dave telling us that in his new home he had an enormous area in which to brew. Well Dave, I have to tell you I now have the mother of all garages and it's all mine in which to brew. Along with my trusty Norton and BMW motorcycles (I mention this for the benefit of A.J.) we are indeed a happy team. To borrow a line from George DePiro, for those of you new to the HBD, I was once a frequent poster here. But unlike George, I never actually wrote a technical post worth anything. Not only couldn't, but wouldn't! Simply refused! This drove Steve Alexander to distraction as he planned futuristic breweries. Did he ever finish Mark III? In short, what happened to me was that we packed up shop and departed the city for a little town called Burradoo. Even Doc Pivo hadn't heard of this one, and there isn't much the good Doc hasn't heard of. What I hadn't quite noticed was that my neat little brew house had been quietly stacking up with more and more equipment until in the end I couldn't even, well dare I mention it, swing a cat! Not even a kitten! Dave Humes, please no unpleasant emails. Jill has just bought Phoebe a Burmese cat. I'll send photos to prove it remains intact. I didn't realise how compact things had become until I was blessed with all this new found space. I'm going to double my production output to 50 litre batches. I'm going to ask Steve Alexander for technical advise but as usual never listen. And I'm going to give Pat Babcock grey and thinning hair with posts he always has to read before letting in, or not letting in! But don't worry Steve, I'm still not going to write any technical posts. There will be Burradoo Bochs and Mudgee Muds a flowing. And this time Jeff Renner's will reach him. Sorry about the last one Jeff. So if I get a bit lost with some of the technical matters, chemistry matters, or even Eric Fouch's absurd sense of the world (the poor bugger thinks Michigan Lake is the ocean!) and even if as I suspect better chemists than me are not necessarily any better brewers, then I can console myself with the fact that the beer just keeps coming out great and it's more fun than ever to make. Doc Pivo I know would give me ten out of ten for attitude though I haven't yet perfected the use of a burnt out clothes dryer, but I'm working on it Doc. Cheers and a Happy New Century Phil Yates Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 21:11:45 -0500 From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Beer Haiku! And a friend returns... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Since Spencer apparently doesn't want to share his "find" with the world, I'll do it for him. I think all beer reviews should be as thus! (The verses regarding Pete's Wicked and Sam Adams are particularly poignant, methinks...) http://www.beerphiladelphia.com/haiku.htm And a hearty "Welcome back, mate!" to Phil & Jill Yates! Hope the seas have settled, and the new country place helps heal the heartaches. - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock/ "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 1980 19:33:03 -0800 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <ferment at flash.net> Subject: reusing Co2 fire extinguishers Kurt Goodwin writes about reusing Co2 fire extinguishers. They are indead the same type of cylinders used for other Co2 purposes, such as fountain and beer dispensing. Your local shop that does hydro testing should be able to fix you up with both testing and new valve. While having it tested I would recomend having them inspect the interior. It would be doubtful that you would have a problem from a fire extinguisher. But, I am told that some cylinders need the interior cleaned (a type of sand blasting) if rusted. I know of one homebrewer who had a contamination source from a cylinder he accidently got beer into which formed mold. Don Van Valkenburg Stein Fillers Brewing and Winemaking supply www.steinfillers.com Return to table of contents
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