HOMEBREW Digest #3258 Fri 25 February 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  high gravity ("Morgan or Margi Jones")
  Giving up bottling=need kegging advice (Ballsacius)
  The ULTIMATE truth! ("Dr. Pivo")
  spam (Jeff Renner)
  re: Ester production / Kunze / Burley (Paul Kensler)
  good info and peat smoked porter ("Czerpak, Pete")
  hbd ("Paul Niebergall")
  Old Brewer but new to this forum (Dick)
  Re: Hefe-Need a secondary? (Chad Bohl)
  intro books / mash hopping clarification ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Nitro Question / The Cult of Pivo ("Spies, Jay")
  6th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition Results! (Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager)
  looking for a false bottom/mash sitrrer (Joseph Gibbens)
  Re: Kolsch yeast (VQuante)
  Chester's problem ("Devon Williams")
  PH and spam post? (Jeff Lutes)
  Great Post, Jim ("Rob Jones")
  devil without a cause (Jim Liddil)
  Cherry Stout ("Bill Bunning")
  Spam... (Pat Babcock)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 06:42:04 -0500 From: "Morgan or Margi Jones" <2mjones at mis.net> Subject: high gravity Greetings from a long-time lurker & 1st time poster. With all this recent discussion of pitching rates and the likes, I have a question that's especially pertinent (at least to me right now). I've always heard (via the usual HB writers-we know what some of you think of some of them...) that one shouldn't repitch yeast from high gravity brews- I recollect references to a higher probability of mutations, plus recently someone (sorry, forget who) posted that such yeast were "tired out" and couldn't be expected to ferment well. I have been fermenting a Belgian dubbel of OG 1075 (A little high, I know), using Wyeast # 1388 Belgian Strong Ale for 9 days now. Was originally planning to use the resulting slurry for an approx. 1095 barley wine, to be brewed this weekend (hopefully). Is the warning about repitching the slurry from a high gravity fermentation: 1) valid(and what are the specific ills) ; and more importantly 2) valid for a yeast INTENDED for high gravity fermentations, as I assume WY1338 is? Just in case, I just started a smackpack of London Ale, but really would like to use the Belgian Strong, so as to be sure to pitch adequate amounts. TIA, Morgan Jones, Frankfort, Kentucky member of BOCK (Brewers of Central KY) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 07:26:37 EST From: Ballsacius at aol.com Subject: Giving up bottling=need kegging advice Last night, I stopped at the local homebrew supply store to pick up a few things. I made the mistake of telling the clerk that I had totally had it with bottling and my wife has totally had it with my empty bottles laying around. I told him that i had been contemplating kegging, but was not sure what to do. He made a very good move and explained the system that they have , the parts that would need replacing(o-rings, etc) and gave me a quick demo of How-to. I have had the keg bug for about a year now and think it is about time. Could anybody give me some tips, or pointers on whqat I should be looking at or going about this purchase. I understand that it is not cheap, but in the long run, it will be worth it. Thanks in advance. Bob Fesmire Madman Brewery Pottstown, PA Ballsacius at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:49:53 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: The ULTIMATE truth! Little Stevie Wonder berates and distrusts my not presenting any exact numbers. We are well aware by now that Mr. Alexander is very fond of exact numbers and absolute edicts. What he is not aware of is that the rest of the world doesn't share his compulsions (c'mon, admit it, Steve. How many times do you have to turn that light switch off at night before you "get it right"). I can well imagine that he sits with a cook book open when boiling eggs: "For each egg pour two cups of water in a saucepan." For your edification, I will give you some exact descriptions.... remember that these are orders and MUST be followed implicitly: Thou shall choose the yeast called Edme. Thou shallt pitch at the rate of one half gram per litre. Though shallt calculate this number in "cells per millilitre" and keep the information to yourself. The primary fermentation temperature shall be between 9 - 10 1/2 C. It may be 8. It may not be 11. The method of fermentation shall be called "open". Though shallt talk yourself blue in the face about whether there is a difference between "closed and open", but you are now commanded to believe that there is, and this will not work "closed" (been there MANY times). The fermenter shall have a geometry where the diameter of the vessel shall not be less than one half of the height of the wort. The fermenter shall have a cover in which there are openings for the two way passage of gases. This (these) openings shall be filled with filters. You may choose sterile cotton if you wish. You may choose an (unused) hanky if you wish. I use toilet paper. The method of wort collection shall be "clean". The lag time shall beeth 4 days. The krauzen shall not be the wild meringuey fingers of a typical active ferment. It shall look like the tight head on a well poured beer. On about day 10-11 the head shall fall leaving the brown krauzen scum on the walls. Thou shallt not skim, harvest or otherwise disturb this activity. Neither shall thou become wet in your pants because the head is falling... let it. On somewhere between day 12-14 you will see a very obvious diminished activity and the wort beginning to clear. Now you shall rack and the method shall be called "gentle". Your carboys shall be purged with CO2. You shall tilt your carboys and your racking hose shall be pinched. As you get enough liquid to cover the tip of your hose you can gently increase flow, and begin righting the carboy. There shall not be great convective movement on the surface. You may start your syphon with your mouth, as long as it has not recently contacted a great source of lactobacillus. The human vagina is filled with "Doederlein's bacteria", a lactobacillus., and though shall brush your teeth after contact. Though mayest put a cork and bubbler over your carboy, or you mayest use some plastic wrap and a rubber band... it maketh not one bit the difference. After 8 days at 7C (The number shall not be 7, and it shall not be 9). you may once again rack using the method called "gently" to a keg and artificially carbonate. Thou shall wait one day before imbibing. Recall, that if you breach a single of the above rules, Beezelbob will not be pleased, and there will be no heir to the kingdom of Alexander(ia). Now.... should we move on to Huerlimann? The temps and techniques are entirely different. But then again what would be the point? You do know Steve that you are absolutley NEVER going to do the above, and what in the world would you compare it to? There are 30 million variables you can shift in there (of which I've tried 462,000), amd where would you begin? But if you can figure out a way to make that yeast behave any more nicely, I'd like to know. Most importantly, you are never going to make any attempt to honestly evaluate your results, but simply give them the "Alexander"stamp of approval , or not. I have already surmised why you do not avail yourself of blind tastings. I guess it's like the two statues in the park. A naked man and woman faced each other for years, when one day an angel arrived. The angel said: "You have been such exemplary statues the last 30 years, and given people such joy, that I am going to grant you each your ultimate wish... I will make you each alive for 30 minutes, in which time you may do whatever you please." The angel blinked and each statue started some slow soft movements. They stared in each others eyes, smiled gently, descended from their pedestals, walked over and took each other by the hand and went behind some bushes. The angel looked kind of embarrassed as he heard the snickering, rustling of bushes and snapping twigs, and the couple appeared with very satisfied expressions after about 15 minutes. The angel looked at his watch and said: "You've got another 15 minutes if you want to do it again." The man statue turned to the woman and asked: "Would you like to do it again?" To which the female statue thought a minute and replied "Yeh, why not?... but this time YOU hold the pidgeon down, and I'LL crap on his head." And what's the point? Sometimes you have to look behind the bushes to find out what's going on, instead of just believing your preconceived notions about it. But I don't think I'm going to change that. I've had enough for awhile, you are now granted full approval to bitch about this amongst yourselves. (Remember when I used to write such nice polite things? I promise that this vileness is reserved entirely for this forum.) Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:47:12 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: spam >TO: INFORMATION PLUS > PO BOX 7350 > PANAMA CITY BEACH, FL 32413 Phil I think I have figured out what to do with Ray's bottle of aftershave. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:52:04 -0600 From: Paul Kensler <Paul.Kensler at cyberstar.com> Subject: re: Ester production / Kunze / Burley HBD and Dave, Dave Burley responded to my post with: "I couldn't find Paul Kensler's point that Kunze suggests that ester formation is decreased by increased temperature. What page? p 330 Kunze says: "Ester production is increased by .....higher fermentation temperatures..." which is correct, as far as I know." Dave, and anyone else who cares ;-) I have just recently ordered my copy, and have not received it yet. The text I was referring to was taken off the VLB web page from their "contents of the book" section, and is supposedly a direct excerpt from the book (http://www.vlb-berlin.org/english/kunze/ester.htm <http://www.vlb-berlin.org/english/kunze/ester.htm> ). It states: Ester production is increased : *increasing the wort concentration above 13 % P, *increasing the attenuation limit and attenuation achieved, *restricting wort aeration *lower fermentation temperature, *increased movement during fermentation and maturation. Ester production is decreased by: *lower wort concentration, *decreasing the attenuation limit, *increased wort aeration, *higher fermentation temperature, *increased pressure during fermentatlon. So is this an error in the excerpt? Judging by your comments taken from the book I would think so. Which makes my little world make sense again! Paul Kensler Livin' La Vida Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:57:24 -0500 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: good info and peat smoked porter happy brewing thursday: Since my 1968 starter for my ESB isn't up to speed yet, I'm going to be brewing a chocolate amber ale with a bastardized grain bill due to a brew shop messup. I haven't brewed one for about 3 or 4 years and figured that I would try one again for kicks. Gonna use Nottingham dry since I don't have any slurries laying around. No idea on how much powdered baking chocolate yet though. I remember something like 24 tablespoons in a 5 gallon batch last time. Probably gonna try something like 1/2 to 3/4 of that this time around. only english 2 row and crystal in the grain bill. On a good note, I have been impressed with the quality of some posters lately. I truely appreciate the info posted by Alan Meeker on his meads, Jim Dunlap on his german pils and other styles experience, in addition to Marc Sedam choice to go where no man has gone before with culturing the Samiclaus yeast. That should be an interesting one to see if it produces a viable yeast without off flavors, etc. Hope to read more in the coming months. I need a bit of recipe help. I purchased 1 lb of peaked smoked grain from Brewers Resource a while back. Just tried the smoked porter at the VT Pub and Brewery in burlington. It was quite good with a subtle smoked flavor that I thought was interested and my SO hated. I would like to get a flavor similar. a smell of smoke and taste but not overwelming. Looking through past digests I have seen mention of about a 1/2 lb in a 5 gallon batch. Will this be too overwelming? Any experiences are gladly accepted. They also had 2 vintages of scotch ale also on tap that were something like 8-9% and pretty sweet. Not my favorite style but good to try a taster of always. Thanks for any comments. Hoping to get the ESB going this wkend with the predicted rain. regards, Pete Czerpak Albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:25:51 -0600 From: "Paul Niebergall" <pnieb at burnsmcd.com> Subject: hbd Nic Templeton writes: >I've been lurking this mail list for a couple of months now, and I've come >to the realization that the topics spoken about here are WAY over my head. You're in over your head alright. Over your head in the B.S. that is the HBD. Put on yer tall boots (better yet, waders) and jump right in. >My question is, I would love to more fully understand the topics discussed >here, but I feel that I need some background first. What would the >readers recommend to a new brewer? Websites, books, magazines? You are not meant to understand it. Because the sole purpose most of what is said here is meant to impress the writer with his ability to regurgitate meaningless reference and re-iterate what they learned in college chemistry 101. I've had Chem 101, 201, and 301 and still do not see a lot of use for most of the chemistry related information that is posted here. That said, I heartily recommend the HBD as a source of good basic brewing information. Just take it all with a grain of sodium chloride, about 10 grains of salicylic acid, and about 16 ounces of malt-based dilute ethanol/water mixture. Paul Niebergall Burns & McDonnell pnieb at burnsmcd.com "Illegitimis non carborundum" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:21:33 -0500 From: Dick <dickgl at lek.net> Subject: Old Brewer but new to this forum Have to tell you all that I have been receiving the digest for a few weeks now and at times the discussions are way over my head. I am amazed at the problems that some get into. I have been brewing the same 6 beers for 30 years and have yet to have a failure. My equipment is home made junk and I must confess that I have never taken any great precautions to be particularly clean or steril beyond giving everything a good wash before use. I keep an eye on the temperature and that is about it. I have been giving some thought to attempting to clean the "scuz" out of some of my large glass bottles but given the fact that it causes no trouble why bother? Guess I'll have to try some of the other brews that you all are doing just to see if my luck holds. Best to all Dick Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:43:41 -0600 From: Chad Bohl <Chad_Bohl at digi.com> Subject: Re: Hefe-Need a secondary? Oh my! Another satisfied brewer using 3068! I've been using this yeast in my wheat beers for a long time and have had similar results every time - --- fast activity. In my opinion, you probably don't need a secondary. I've also never had a problem with stuck mash (I use about 50% wheat). I brew 5 gallon batches and currently lauter with phil's sparging equip in a plastic 5 gal. bucket. However, this spring I will (hopefully without error) go to 1/2 barrel batches. By the way, on the pitching rate thread, I usually step this one up only once to about a pint and obtain what I believe to be rather good consistency with the outcome. Chad "Russ Hobaugh" <Russ_Hobaugh at erm.com> wrote: I brewed a Hefe last saturday, and was pleasantly surprised by the mash--I had no problems whatsoever. I had heard all the horror stories about stuck mashes with high wheat amounts(mine was 60%). And now for the question--should I use a secondary or just bottle after a week in the primary? My thought is to skip the secondary because I want the yeast in there anyway. Or will this give me too MUCH yeast? Please advise. Also, on the whole yeast starter topic, I stepped up #3068 to about a half gallon, and my fermentation took off like a rocket, and was done in 2 days. This was the fastest a beer ever started on me, and also the most active! So I will stick with stepping up starters. Russ Hobaugh Goob' Dog Brewery Birdsboro PA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:03:48 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: intro books / mash hopping clarification Nic Templeton <ntempleton at iname.com> asks for book recommendations. You may wish to try Noonan's _Seven Barrel Brewery Brewer's Handbook_ for a good combination of theory, practical advice, recipes, and techniques for extract and all-grain for beginners. (In my opinion, far superior to Papazian's _NJOHB_, which can be commended for enthusiasm, but has serious technique shortcomings). For something a bit more meaty, Noonan's _New Brewing Lager Beer_ is superb for mash techniques and basic chemistry, even if you only brew ales. Mash Hopping, I may have posted here or sent private email that mash hopping yields the same IBUS as FWH. But this is NOT the case. The flavour and aroma contributions from pellets that are mash hopped are comparable to FWH, but the bitterness is only about 10%, since the hops are retained in the mash and are not boiled as they would be with FWH. I hope I haven't debittered anyone's favorite recipe. Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevesiae sugat." ______________________________________________ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:24:00 -0500 From: "Spies, Jay" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: Nitro Question / The Cult of Pivo All - I recently had the good fortune to stumble across over a dozen faucet handle and shank assemblies, as well as several manifolds and drip pans in a mouldy warehouse behind a friend's restaurant. Buried among the detritus was a genuine Guiness faucet. After a thorough disassembly and cleaning of all the equipment (5-Star kicks major butt), I am now in the position of adding a Nitro faucet to my existing 3-keg beer freezer. I have following a few questions about nitrogen carbonation and dispense... First, I assume that I'll need an additional tank with the preferred 70% CO2 / 30% N2 mixture, and a nitrogen regulator (BTW, anyone out there in HBD-land with a spare such regulator should give me a call - purchase can be arranged). If I set the CO2/N2 regulator to about 30 psi (which I have read is optimal), can I carbonate with the mixed gas at 30 psi, or do I have to carbonate with my usual 12 psi of 100% CO2 and then switch to the mixed gas to dispense only? I would think that to get the miniscule amount of N2 that *is* soluble to go into solution, it would be best to carbonate with the mixed gas, but I don't know. Thoughts? Secondly, does 30 psi seem reasonable given that my chest freezer kegerator is held at 42 degrees F? I normally carbonate by hooking up 12 psi of CO2 and walking away for about 5-6 days... Thirdly, for my CO2 beers, I use a coiled run of 6 feet of 3/16" beer line to go from the disconnect to the faucet. With 30 psi of CO2/N2, will this remain a constant? I assume that it will, as the objective of a nitro dispense is to cram the beer through the restrictor plate in order to strip the CO2 out of solution, and hence a 30 psi dispense (vs 12 psi CO2) should accomplish the job nicely. Anyone who uses a Guiness tap and nitro dispense have any thoughts? Have I missed anything crucial? Inquiring minds want to know... Also, on the raging Doc Pivo rant fest, I actually welcome the Doc's comments, even if they come sometimes from a bit of shady ground in left field. His enigmatic stature and cryptic advice do occasionally ring, mantra-like, in my ears in the wee hours of the night. The HBD can be so hyper-technical at times that some purely non-technical non-sequiturs can be unusually refreshing. What's that, do I hear that Comet Hale-Bopp is returning to perihelion? Uh oh, better make haste to Doc Pivo's commune with Hemlock in hand... The end must be near! Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 14:30:03 -0500 (EST) From: Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager <tholland at tunnel.East.Sun.COM> Subject: 6th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition Results! All, The 6th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition was held on a snowy Saturday Febrewary 19th at the North East Brewing Company in Boston MA. We had 419 entries this year and our judge and steward turnout was excellent despite the snow! We had some excellent entries for this years competition which made for some pretty tough judging. Not a bad problem to have and also proof that the quality of our homebrewed beers/ciders/meads continues to improve! The Boston Wort Processors wish to extend our thanks to everyone who supported and participated in our competition this year. It was a great day and some excellent beers were judged. We also had many entries and qualifiers for the MCAB III competition coming from all over the country! The competition results are posted on the Boston Wort Processors web page at http://www.wort.org. Please surf there to obtain the results. The only results given here are the Best of Show winners. For those who entered the competition score sheets will be in the mail next week. Best of Show =================================================================== 1) Geoffrey McNally, IPA, Tiverton, RI (South Shore Brew Club) 2) Ann Whyte, Pre-Prohibition Pils, Essex Jct, VT (Green Mountain Mashers) 3) Gary Harstead, Mahwah, NJ, Fruit Lambic Any questions can be directed to me via e-mail or phone. Cheers and Thanks again! Tim Holland Coordinator for the 2000 Boston Homebrew Competition Boston Wort Processors tim.holland at east.sun.com 781-442-2022 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:56:10 -0600 From: Joseph Gibbens <jgibbens at umr.edu> Subject: looking for a false bottom/mash sitrrer Hello, I recently destroyed my false bottom and am looking for a replacement. So far all the ones I've found are for half barrels. what I need is one that will fit a 10 gallon cooler. Also, does anyone know what the proper flow pattern/blade geometry should be for motorized mash stirring? Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 15:32:02 EST From: VQuante at aol.com Subject: Re: Kolsch yeast In einer eMail vom 23.02.00 06:03:20 (MEZ) Mitteleuropaeische Zeit schreibt Richard_R_Gontarek at sbphrd.com: > I'm thinking about brewing a Kolsch, since it is one style I've never > done before, but I'm confused about which yeast I should use. Should I > go with Wyeast 1007 (German Ale) or 2565 (Kolsch)? Hi, Richard, as I have brewed Koelsch using #2565 sometimes, I can share my last recipe with you. The result was quite good - and I'm able to compare it with almost every "real" Koelsch, because I've been living near Koeln from 1996 to 1998 and had quite good connections to at least one Koelsch brewery. And tested them (the Koelschs) all! I also sent the recipe to Lou Heavner some weeks ago, and - if you don't mind - I just cut and paste what I've written to him. Good luck and happy brewing. Zum Wohl / Na Zdrowie, Volker Volker R. Quante Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer - -------------------------- RECIPE FOLLOWS: Because of the difficult situation here in Poland, where I'm working, I wasn't able to use the malt from a typical Koelsch brewery (no Koelsch breweries, and no homebrew shops as well), but tried it in this way: 4.9 kg Pilsner Malt (two row - very low protein content) and 1.4 kg Wheat Malt prepared in a JSP-MaltMill, with 10 litres water from one of the publics wells in Warsaw (the municipal water stinks, and you can only use it for cleaning up your stuff, but not for brewing) prepared for infusion mash. protein rest at 45degC for 10 min 64degC for 30 min 72degC for 15 min mash out at 78degC for 5 min (I didn't calculate the infusions, just added some litres nearly boiling water, and if the temperature was still too low, I heated the whole mash on the gas stove) Lautering in a Zapap, recirculating 3 litres, and run-off. At beginning of the boil I added 20 g Hallertauer Northern Brewer (14% alpha), and after 70 minutes 15 g Lubelski (that's a very good Polish aroma hops, quite similar to Saaz) for another 10 minutes. Because the concentration after boiling was a little too high, I diluted to 12,3deg Plato - resulting in about 22 litres. I had prepared a 1-litre-starter #2565 in the week before, which was at high kraeusen, when I added it to the wort at 22degC. The next morning - after 12 hours - I had a vigourous fermentation (as always with this yeast), and already after three days I gave it to the secondary (7 to 8degC for about three weeks - in the fridge). During primary fermentation it produces the strong fruity smell, which always reminds me of strawberries. Bottled after 25 days, priming with normal white sugar, and aged in the bottles for about three more weeks. It was quite good, but - maybe because of the wheat malt - still has a fine haze. But it mellowed very well and tastes fine. I forgot to take measuring of final gravity :-( But I have to say: I'm not too anal about that. I'm not a scientist (at least not in my brewery...), but rather like to brew in a way similar to that in which my wife cooks: Add all the stuff necessary, and the result is always very good (and not reproduceable...:-( Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:29:34 EST From: "Devon Williams" <dawg_01 at hotmail.com> Subject: Chester's problem Chester, I'm no pro, but looking at your html source for your page, I noticed one thing that I've always been told not to do... For the line that starts with: <p><br><img SRC="whole brewery.jpg" BORDER=0 height=492 width=736> I would do one of two things. (1)instead of having "whole brewery.jpg" with a space, make it one long word: "wholebrewery.jpg". (2)if you like it as two seperate words, I would add and underscore where your space is, so the browser "thinks" it is one word. You will need to change this in your code, but you will also have to change it for the actual file name (the image you are hoping to post). Now, I don't know that this will fix it, but these crazy machines tend to be pretty particular about spaces and such, so you may want to try it. Hope it helps. Devon Williams Beer Belly Brothers Brewing Watkinsville, GA ooooo |..oo=| |...o | |...| | |...|=| |___| ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 19:38:22 -0600 From: Jeff Lutes <jlutes at osprey.net> Subject: PH and spam post? Firstly, after doing some catch-up reading, I noticed that a number of people were debating the best (and cheapest) way to test Ph. I have used a method that seems to have worked very well and is incredibly cheap. I use an aquarium Ph tester. The kit I bought (I did buy a brand new one for brewing when I started) runs about $6 and has a Ph chart from about 5.5 to 7.5. You can also use the Ph up and down chemicals (with a bit of math) to read an even greater range. Secondly, how in the heck did that last post in #3257 slip through? Gemus Brauen Haus 3.86394 S, 12.46223 W Rennerian P.S. Kudos to the person who can figure out where I'm at from the Rennerian coords :P Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 21:01:34 -0500 From: "Rob Jones" <robjones at pathcom.com> Subject: Great Post, Jim I'll chime in with the rest in lauding a great post on brewing experience. Actually missed it the first time through (been using the page down an inordinate amount of times lately as I've been feeling a little Peev(o)ed about the quality and tone of postings) and had to go back and read for myself. I've been dabbling in lagers for the past year, and have been trying high percentage munich brews. A bock for instance that had 75% munich malt, and an AA of 55.5%. Beat you there! I'll certainly take your and Jeff Renners advice on the mash temps and step mashing, as well as pitching rates. Cheers, Rob Jones Toronto Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 21:09:17 -0500 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at vms.arizona.edu> Subject: devil without a cause I suggest zero pitching. Make naturally fermented stuff. Use only wood barrels previously infected. Learn to enjoy the odd flavor. One mans swill is another mans manna. Dr. Pivo must be a God, to be so wise. Or he has gone through many reincarnations to reach his current state. all hail the One True God, Dr. Pivo. and the truth shall set you free. I have sinned a strayed from the path. Can I still find redemption? Is there hope. Jim Liddil Lifes a bitch but I deal with it Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 20:24:21 -0600 From: "Bill Bunning" <bunz at pcola.gulf.net> Subject: Cherry Stout I'm getting ready to brew a cherry stout and was wondering what style of stout would suit this beer the best. I'm an all-grain brewer. All suggestions welcome. Bill Bunning Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 21:48:22 -0500 From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Spam... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Once again, a bit of spam pops by. Connectivity went awry last night. Mea culpa. And, once again, someone needed to comment on it. Don't know why I let it irritate me, but it does. For anyone else who feels it necessary complain, just remember how much Karl and I get paid to do this. Then lay down until the feeling passes... - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock/ "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
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