HOMEBREW Digest #3291 Wed 05 April 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: More Thermal Musings ( & other activities) from The Southern (David Lamotte)
  for those who use the Pig ("Darrell Leavitt")
  Electrical Question (Bill_Rehm)
  SS Passivation ("Sandy Macmillan")
  bulk hops and outmeal stout ("Penn, John")
  Vacuum sealing hops , Fermenting in cornys . (Charles Walker)
  brewing integrity ("Eric Cartman")
  May this thread be cast aside (The Holders)
  Fermentor-to-Keg Flavor/Aroma Experiment ("Troy Hager")
  cleaning scorched stainless steel ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  storing hops ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Secondary under pressure ("Matt Hollingsworth")
  HSA ( aka hot wort oxidation) (Dave Burley)
  re: bouncing carboys/Fermenting in cornys (Dick Dunn)
  Unit conversion ("Francois Zinserling")
  Re:  bouncing carboys (stencil)
  RE: Belgian Wit ("NATHAN T Moore")
  Belgian Ale ("Houseman, David L")
  Fred's Tip Corner (fred_garvin)
  tequiza clone ("Joe O'Meara")
  SS pots ("Jimmy Hughes")
  Eight Annual Dominion Cup ("Timmons, Frank")
  clean glasses ("Jimmy Hughes")
  Re: Off-Topic: Vinegar (David Lamotte)
  Kegging 15.5 gallons ("Bruce M. Mills")
  LA / NA beer?!? (Brett Spivy)
  Re: Cleaning Brass (David Lamotte)
  Lab stuff ("Louis K. Bonham")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Entries for the 18th Annual HOPS competition are due 3/24-4/2/00 * See http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ for more information * 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival - entry deadline May 15th * More info at: http://www.hotv.org/fest2000 Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 15:07:33 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: More Thermal Musings ( & other activities) from The Southern Brethren .... Wes Smith (The Moss Vale Maltster) writes of an unbalanced energy equation whereby the application of heat to a stainless mash tun results in an initial temperature drop. While I have not bothered with such direct fired step mashes myself, and hence have never had an opportunity to observed any temperature changes, I have noticed what I believe to be a related phenomena. Whenever I fire up my (propane) boiler, I notice a large amount of water condensing from the combustion products on the (relatively) cold boiler surface. The amount is significant and leads to quite a large puddle forming. Now while the process of condensation would be giving up heat, perhaps (just perhaps), the quantity of water formed leads to sufficient cooling of the vessel surface to account for the observed temperature changes. Now onto other matters. There have been reports emanating from the Southern Highlands of Rice Lager parties featuring a billiard table as the prime source of visual entertainment. Motivated by such tales, I went out last week and purchased such a billiard table and stocked the fridge with commercial lager but no such parties have spontaneously appeared. Am I missing something ? I can not find any mention of such things in any of my brewing textbooks. Are such parties only associated with home brewed lager, and hence unknown to professional brewers ? If it only works with home brewed lager, does anyone have a good recipe that they would like to share ? Hope you can help... Thanks .... David Lamotte Tounge-in-Cheek Brewery Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 08:17:07 -0400 From: "Darrell Leavitt" <Darrell_Leavitt at esc.edu> Subject: for those who use the Pig For those of you who use a party pig: I just discovered the pig racking cane, and find that it works very well. The cane goes through a rubber stopper which also has a tube attached so that you can hook up the activation pump to start the siphon. Bottom line is that it works very well...the hose is large and the flow is fast, ... and if you loose prime, you just have to pump a few times and you're back in business. I have no connection with the maker (Quion)...but am just am a satisfied customer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 07:37:18 -0500 From: Bill_Rehm at eFunds.Com Subject: Electrical Question I'm building a HERMS heating unit using a 120 volt/2000 watt water heater element. Problem is the wiring and power switch, I have found a thermostatic control unit (Johnson Controls) but I want to add a "main" power switch. I've looked in Grainger and I found several toggle switches rated up to 16 amps, and I have a 10 amp service (breaker has a little 10 on the face). If I go ahead am I asking for trouble with the circuit breaker and power cords that I use. Any advice/information would be great, I spent several hours tonight searching the web for info but didn't find much to help. thanks, Bill Rehm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 15:34:22 +0300 From: "Sandy Macmillan" <scotsman at kems.net> Subject: SS Passivation Can anyone direct me to information on passivation of stainless steel. I understand I will be using 10% Nitric acid, but I am trying to find out about pretreatment, timing etc. The reason is I am fabricating a conical fermentor in 316L SS. Private email is find as this may not appeal to the full list. Sandy Macmillan Brewing in a dry place Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:13:14 -0400 From: "Penn, John" <John.Penn at jhuapl.edu> Subject: bulk hops and outmeal stout Thanks for the replies on bulk hops and my outmeal stout. Seems www.freshops.com is a good source for bulk hops and shipping is included which makes the price pretty good. After all the input on my oatmeal stout, I think it will look like so... Outmeal Stout (partial mash) OG~1.057 IBU~40 5 gallons (2.5 gallon partial boil) Mash: 3# pale malt 1# quick oats 1/2# flaked barley 6oz roasted barley 2oz chocolate malt 4.5 # M&F light extract (LME) 13 HBUs (~2oz N.B. 6.5%) bittering hops 45-50 min boil finishing hops? TBD Nottingham Dry yeast Thanks for all the help. I was glad to see Alan Meeker's response on yeast attenuation. I was also under the impression that different yeasts had different abilities to break down the more complex sugars in the wort. It almost seemed from a recent post, that any beer that doesn't attenuate (to say 75%) would presumably continue to attenuate in the bottle and eventually overcarbonate. But I know from personal experience that a previous stout that was a low attenuator has not changed carbonation levels in over 2 years in the bottle. That stout was extract based and finished at a whopping 1.035 from a start around 1.090. If the yeasts were still trying to attenuate the remaining 1.035, I would have some serious bottle bombs. Yet they are very stable and unchanging. So it would seem that different yeasts do attenuate a complex mix of sugars, i.e. "worts", differently. John Penn Eldersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:09:30 -0500 From: charlybill at xpressway.net (Charles Walker) Subject: Vacuum sealing hops , Fermenting in cornys . **For those of you who are interested, the vacuum sealer I use is made by Tilia. I purchased the Food Saver II on sale for $120 from Kohls (no affiliation with either etc. etc. etc.) So watch for a sale! Regular price is in the $150 to $170 range.** I (we) too have a Food Saver II and really love for kitchen duty, hops, what ever you want to seal up. You can vacuum pack the bag or just seal it without vacuuming. Tilia also makes another model (more expensive of course) which alows you to control the amout of vacuum force. We bought outs at Sam's and they have replacement bags, a box with 4 rolls for about $30. On the topic of fermenting in cornys, I just use a gas quick disconnect with a hose run into a container of iodophor solution, ie: blow off tube. The only thing I did to the corny was cut off the dip tube a bit. I actually use this for a 2ndary, use a Sanky type keg with a clamp on fitting for the top as a primary for 10 gal batches. I use the same fittings for it and it has worked fine. (All my glass carboys currently reside in my attic.) Charlie Walker Lancaster, Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 15:29:33 GMT From: "Eric Cartman" <cartman_10101 at hotmail.com> Subject: brewing integrity HBDers, I am a little concerned about the poster hiding behind this Fred Garvin character. How can we trust the comments that he makes? Is he truly as perverted as he claims, or is he attempting to use his professed authority to mislead us into performing unnatural acts with bottle brushes andPrimeTabs? People who are dishonest about their identities are obviously inferior brewers, and should refrain from doing anything but cowering in the linen closet. (So, Fred, please--back into the closet!)>>>> I am a personal friend of Fred. He is everything he says he is and more. As a matter of fact Friday he, I, and Eric Fouch got together to brew a batch, reminisce on times of old and perform deep cavity searches. I must say he is quite a person. Twice the man and brewer that Alan Meeker is. At least he can admit when he is wrong. So please no further question of the integrity of this man. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:38:46 -0700 From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com> Subject: May this thread be cast aside Lynne says: "I understood that lead is added for machining. Aren't brass valves cast, not machined." Uhhh.....last time I looked, there are "machined" threads in the valves. Now I'm no metallurgist, but I'd guess a little lead would aid the internal threading of the valve. How about asking the place you bought them for a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)? Wayne Holder AKA Zymie Long Beach CA http://www.zymico.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 07:53:10 +0000 From: "Troy Hager" <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Fermentor-to-Keg Flavor/Aroma Experiment Hello to all, Last weekend I racked five gallons of IPA out of the fermentor into the keg. It had been conditioning in the fermentor for about 2 weeks at 32F. I had tasted it many times (including right before racking) and it tasted very malty, alcoholic, with a lot of hops - it tasted excellent. All the flavors and aroma were very clean, pronounced and distinct. I used a very clean (PBW/Star San) cornie, I pressure cooked the keg lid and fittings, I cleaned the pick up tub with a brush. I purged the keg, racked the beer, and purged the headspace. I placed about 30psi CO2 on it and rolled it around a while and repeated a few times. I then tapped it and let it settle for a while and sampled. I was surprised to see how different it was. Of course it was carbonated - but beyond that the flavors had changed quite significantly. The hops and malt were still there in the nose but there was also another smell - I call it "gassy" - somewhat medicinal although that does not discribe it well. The flavors were not as robust now that it was carbonated. They seemed more muddled and not as distinct and clean as they were in the fermentor. It had lost something that made me say, "Wow this is fantastic!" in the fermentor, to "This is good but not great" in the keg. I know my descriptors are very lacking but the fact is that the smell and tastes changed significantly when it was transfered to the keg and carbonated. I can reasonably attribute these changes to the gas because I *very* carefully cleaned and sanitized the keg with high quality cleaners. Has anyone else experienced this? I the past I have always noticed a change in flavor pre-carbonation to post-carbonation - my beers taste great out of the fermentor, but are lacking in the keg. This experiment pins it down to the CO2. Anyone have a clue about what this could be? Is there such a thing as food grade CO2 and I have been getting the wrong gas? I just have my bottles filled by the local welding shop... Should I try adding sugar instead of force carbonating next time? If I do that, can I still cold condition in the fermentor? Has anyone found that force carbonating changes the aroma and flavors of their beers? Personal responses welcomed! Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:44:28 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: cleaning scorched stainless steel "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> comments "scorch can be removed fairly painlessly from pots with strong acid soaks - but it doesn't do anything good for a SS surface in the long run" I'm not sure if Steve Alexander is referring to a stained surface or scorched-on gunk. A PBW soak is extremely effective at removing oxidized material easily, and a StarSan rinse will help keep the SS passivated. Neither will harm the surface, in the short or long run. I don't think PBW will remove a heat stain. I've used a Lagostina powdered cleanser, which is fairly abrasive, to remove heat stains from my SS cooking pots. I don't worry about heat stains on my brewing equipment. Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevesiae sugat." ______________________________________________ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:44:35 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: storing hops "J. Doug Brown" <jbrown at mteer.com> asks about vacuum sealers crushing hops. We use a vacuum sealer to store all our hops. While the oxygen barrier plastic bag conforms closely to the hop flowers, slightly squishing them, and some hop dust and pollen accumulates at the bottom of a bag after repeated re-sealings, there is no real problem in usage or alpha strength. The hops perform predictably. The biggest factor in hop freshness is temperature. Check out http://www.paddockwood.com/guide_hop_usage.html#STORAGE Vacuum sealing in an oxygen barrier bag is best, but simply freezing them in jars or Ziplocs will keep them fresh for months. Promash has a great calculator for easily estimating the aa% of stored hops. Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevesiae sugat." ______________________________________________ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: 4 Apr 2000 10:47:56 -0700 From: "Matt Hollingsworth" <colorart at spiritone.com> Subject: Secondary under pressure Hello, I'm brewing a kolsch this weekend and plan on racking into a corny immediately after primary. I want to cold condition and carbonte the beer naturally in the keg without priming. Anybody doing this? And with what results? -Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:57:38 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: HSA ( aka hot wort oxidation) Brewsters: I guess I don't understand the fuss over whether or not HSA (who invented that stupid term, anyway?) or as I call it in real English "hot wort oxidation" exists. There should be no question about whether or not it is real. It is. As to the Pivo experiment in which lots of crystal malt was incorporated into the mash, his lack of a detectable difference doesn't surprise me too much as crystal malt actually masks the effect to some extent. The same experiment with plain lager mash might have produced a different result if we could be sure he didn't get hot wort oxidation of his control by using his normal methods. For example, boiling in a small open kettle will also produce hot wort oxidation. Don't believe it? Boil one kettle open and the other covered 2/3 ( after boilup) so you get a jet of steam keeping the air away from the wort surface. Compare these worts for color and do a separate fermentation. You will understand. That is the real flaw in his experiment, we don't know that his control had no hot wort oxidation, do we? If he did, that would also explain his "no difference" results. If you really want to do an experiment and see how bad hot wort oxidation can be and become a believer, try this method which I used in the dawn of my homebrewing. Filter the hops out of the nearly boiling hot lager wort by pouring the wort through a collander into an open fermenter with all the concomitant splashing. Luckily, I figured out ( before there were any HB books to tell me ) that this was a bad thing or I wouldn't be brewing today. Once you have done this experiment and have convinced yourself it is a real phenomenon and you know how it tastes, you can look over your methods and reduce this phenomenon which <is> important for the small volume, high surface activities which characterize homebrewing. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: 4 Apr 00 11:48:32 MDT (Tue) From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: re: bouncing carboys/Fermenting in cornys Aaron Perry wrote about "the one that got away" (a carboy) in spite of care to have it and his hand dry to pick it up. We could pick at why it might have happened, for example, > ...Sample glass in hand I grabbed the primary by the DRY neck ... not having both hands to deal with the carboy, but I don't think that will be either convincing or useful. I will, however, point out (again) that I've not broken a carboy in now 20+ years of brewing, even in spite of having developed a neck problem in recent years that can cause my hands to do not quite what I tell them to sometimes. I've been slightly lucky in the sense that I've done a few not- quite-bright things with carboys and not had them break...but mostly it's because I follow a few rules religiously: 1 Carboys are solitary and bad-tempered, so don't let two of them get close or they may fight to the death. 2 When carrying a carboy, carry nothing else--*especially* don't carry two carboys at once! (no, not even if they're empty) 3 Never set a carboy down on concrete. 4 Always wear closed shoes with firm soles that won't slip in the brewing environment. I've used carboy "handles"--the neck-gripping type--ever since they became available in the homebrew market. Never had a problem, never saw any like- lihood of a problem, and they've certainly helped where I've had to carry carboys up and down stairs (most of my brewing years). I'm not trying to convince you to keep using glass if you're not comfor- table with it; I'm just saying that it can be safe. Glass is great stuff in terms of its inertness to anything we use in brewing. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:19:02 +0200 From: "Francois Zinserling" <francois at designtech.co.za> Subject: Unit conversion I've seen the odd argument about units and conversions on the HBD. A utility I found at http://www.joshmadison.com/software/ offers a neat conversion utility for ANY, yes ANY unit. Sheesh, it even tells you how many inches there are in a light year ! Click on the arrows in the left frame and download "convert" CYA ZING (ZA) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 16:26:27 -0400 From: stencil <stencil at bcn.net> Subject: Re: bouncing carboys Although it won't help much if you really do drop the carboy, you can clothe the jug in a basketball net (Walmart etc.) and significantly improve your handling control. A piece of 1/2-in vinyl tubing about 30-in long, with some 14-ga wire rove through it and the whole threaded through the hem loops, makes a good base ring. A piece of nylon nine-thread works well too. Beware the braided yelow polypropylene - knots and splices work free all too easily. stencil sends RKBA! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 13:06:01 -0600 From: "NATHAN T Moore" <NTMOORE at SMTPGATE.DPHE.STATE.CO.US> Subject: RE: Belgian Wit There are two types of coriander. One is the macrocarpum, or large seed, and the other is microcarpum or small seed. What is commonly available is the large seed, from India, Australia, and I think Canada. The small seed has a much higher oil content, and I believe is grown more often in Europe. Other than the oil content, which is important for those making essential oils or other medicinal items, I don't believe there is much of a difference in flavor as far as brewing is concerned, freshness is probably a lot more important. Actualy I remeber reading or hearing someone say that they prefered the largest seeds they could find in their wits. What do other people think, other than those that are not telling for commercial reasons? As far as Curacao orange peel I am not aware of any variations, is anyone else? Nate Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 19:07:55 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Belgian Ale Lynne O'Conner hint amongst "us girls" about not using bittering hops in a wit is a good hint for those who want to get closer to the true wits. The best one I've made used the bitter orange (and probably the wrong one but it worked well) as the bittering agent in the boil at first runnings. The corriander (and again maybe the wrong one, but I do get excellent corriander from the local Middle Eastern food shop) was added at both what would have been a flavor hop addition (about 30-20 minutes to go) and flavor hop addition (5 minutes to knockout). I've made a very good (40+ score in competitions) by using the skin of the everyday sweet oranges available at the local grocery store. Just carefully took the with pith off and let the remaining skin dry in the air. I'm sure THAT's NOT the right orange, but hey, it worked well and was cheap since I got to eat the oranges! Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 19:24:48 -0400 (EDT) From: fred_garvin at fan.com Subject: Fred's Tip Corner One of the Pvio Plethora quiped to another of his ilk: > But I have a moment to make a few comments. Dr Pivo 49 is curious as to the measure of perversity of the man behind Fred Garvin. Dr Pivo 49, the man about whom you enquire is highly perverse, be in no doubt about this! > Fred Garvin is not perverse! He's just "big boned". On to the tips! If you'r at a loss for rice hulls, toss a pound or so of unground malt in your grist to insure a stick free mash. Fill a 2-liter bottle with an iodophor solution and cap with a carbonater cap (no, Kyle, it's not yours). This makes a great cleaning aid when rinsing out your Phills Philler. Speaking of counter pressure bottle filling, if you want to get that extra volume or two of CO2, add the appropriate amount of priming sugar to the keg: If you carbonate past 2.5 volumes, bottle with the Philler is no Last but not least, if someone named "Alan" sends you his barleywine, just say "NO!" Fred "I'll get MY PhD first!" Garvin Kentwood MI - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Get free email from CNN Sports Illustrated at http://email.cnnsi.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:03:18 -0700 (PDT) From: "Joe O'Meara" <drumthumper_2000 at yahoo.com> Subject: tequiza clone Fellow Brewers, I'm thinking about doing a tequiza clone using prickley pear cactus. It'll be a 5 gallon partial mash. Any suggestions (hops, malt, etc)? Private e-mail ok. TIA, ===== Joe O'Meara Mad Dwarf Brewery (AKA my kitchen and coat closet) ICQ # 60722006 http://homebrew.4mg.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 21:18:27 -0400 From: "Jimmy Hughes" <inspector at bmd.clis.com> Subject: SS pots I have found a better price, http://www.heartlandamerica.com/site.asp select "household", "kitchen" $39.99 Happy trails to you, 'til we meet again.............. Check out the free items, go to, http://www.ncinspections.com scroll down, click on the free after rebate link........ Save money, enjoy........ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:05:33 -0700 From: "Timmons, Frank" <frank.timmons at honeywell.com> Subject: Eight Annual Dominion Cup The James River Homebrewers are pleased to announce the 8th Annual Dominion Cup Homebrew Competition on May 20, 2000. The judging will be held at the Legend Brewery in Richmond, VA. Entries are now being accepted through May 12, 2000. To receive an entry packet or to request more information, E-mail me at francis_23227 at yahoo.com. Visit our web site, http://www.geocities.com/jrhb_2000/> for more information. Judging will be done by BJCP judges, to the 1999 style descriptions. Our goal is to provide each entry with constructive feedback from our pool of judges. On the same weekend in Richmond, the River City Beer Festival will be held on the historic riverfront. Many different craft brewers from the Mid-Atlantic region will be represented at the festival, and the winners of the Dominion Cup will be announced on stage at the festival on Saturday evening. Come join us in a toast to the winners and spend a most pleasurable day in our historic city. We still have openings for a couple more BJCP program judges. If you are interested, email me with a phone number and snail mail address so that I can confirm your registration. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:17:00 -0400 From: "Jimmy Hughes" <inspector at bmd.clis.com> Subject: clean glasses I have found a way to clean glasses. I now use Acetone, rinse well and voila, a clean glass Happy trails to you, 'til we meet again.............. Check out the free items, go to, http://www.ncinspections.com scroll down, click on the free after rebate link........ Save money, enjoy........ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 12:50:51 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Off-Topic: Vinegar John Thompson asked about making vinegar from Wine. I have been making it for the last 15 years, and IIRC you need to start with a suitable culture. The best way to get one is to look in the dregs of a shop bought 'wine' vinegar and use that to inoculate your 'fermenter'. The Acetic bacteria will form a thin skin on the top (called the mother) where the bacteria will slowly convert the alcohol into acetic acid. It will take 3-6 months for the process to mature, after which you can draw off a maximum of 30% of the volume and refill. It is best to draw the vinegar from below the mother so that it is not disturbed. I keep 2 fermenters going (a Red & a white) and both make very nice vinegar. The Red is far sharper and more flavoursome than anything that you can buy. You can just leave a part used bottle open to the air (plugged with cotton wool to keep flies out) and it will naturaly convert, but this will take a long time without a starter. Off Topic ? Making a starter from a commercial product, top fermenting, racking - sounds very much like beer making to me. Be aware though, that after a few years, the bugs will be well established in your atmosphere. And you will need to be very carefull with your brewing. I find that any fermentable liquid left open to the air quickly gets covered with a white skin and starts smelling like vinegar. Hope this helped... if not, I am happy to supply further details. David Lamotte Bacterially Brewing in Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:55:42 -0400 From: "Bruce M. Mills" <millsbruce at earthlink.net> Subject: Kegging 15.5 gallons I would like to use the 15.5 gallon kegs, on occasion, to keg my beer. Does anyone have any experiences or comments they would like to share ? I have a full half barrel brewery, CO2 system, and a fridge with adequate capacity to store. I currently use 5 gallon corny kegs. If I were able to purchase a couple of kegs, a tap, and the tool to access the interior, would I be able to fill, clean, and sanitize adequately without a commercial cleaning system ? Any recommendations of a manufacturer that would sell just two new kegs , tap, and the tool ? Not considering cost, are there other issues I should know about ? Bruce M. Mills Hancock, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 21:56:37 -0500 From: Brett Spivy <baspivy at softdisk.com> Subject: LA / NA beer?!? I remember that someone once posted some information about "baking" the alcohol out of a beer!?! Thinking I would NEVER need this info, i didn't save it and now cannot find it in the archives. Now though, i find out the guy that is building my custom Harley (who I would like to endear myself to) only drinks NA beer. I have brewed a batch of my "Dream-A-Cream Ale" (based on Renner & Sedam's Unfortunate Acronym CACA - thanx guys) and I like to "bake" out the alcohol from about two gallons, then force carbonate, CP bottle, and VIOLA -- Magic Touch: Bayou Custom Ale NA. Can anyone help with the procedure? Thanx . . . Brett A. Spivy PS - If anyone knows where I can get saddlebag carriers for cornies, I'm sure my gas bottle and regulator will ride "bitch". Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 13:17:09 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Cleaning Brass Lynne asks if brass valves are cast rather than machined, would there still be lead added ? Most pipe fittings start out being cast, but they still need to have threads etc machined. So, they would probably have a small amount of lead added. But as John Palmer said, it is only a small amount. Still, if it worries you, why not remove it anyway as they do go a nice colour. David Lamotte Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:37:01 -0500 From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham at hypercon.com> Subject: Lab stuff Hi folks: Well, the good folks at Cynmar (www.cynmar.com) are at it again . . . not only do they now have a specific section of their on-line lab equipment catalog dedicated especially to brewers, but they have a really great deal on hemacytometers (essential for doing yeast counts): $49. That's about *half* of what I typically see them sell for. Another item: a dozen 300ml Erlenmeyer flasks (great for doing wort stability tests) for under $20. No connection or financial interest; just a very satisfied long-time customer, yadda yadda yadda. LKB Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 04/05/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96