HOMEBREW Digest #3333 Wed 24 May 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  RE: Dorm Fridge (Graham Sanders)
  fridge stuff (fridgeguy)
  Brix, Balling, and Plato ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Mead and Honey (Bill.X.Wible)
  Boneyard Brew-Off, Champaign IL, June 9-10 (Joel Plutchak)
  Munich Helles Style Series book? (Bill.X.Wible)
  SG at 68F -- new reference temp (Brian Pickerill)
  freezing malt extract ("Al Beers")
  Broken Fridge ("Eric R. Theiner")
  brew/zymurgy (Jim Liddil)
  Zymurgy - Honey Issue (Leo Vitt)
  Re: Efficiency Percentage ("patrick finerty jr.")
  aha mission statement (Jim Liddil)
  Fixing bottle geysers ("Jim & Jeanine Steinbrunner")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 15:05:54 +1000 From: Graham Sanders <GrahamS at bsa.qld.gov.au> Subject: RE: Dorm Fridge G'day all We Aussie's have a much better name for these things. BAR FRIDGES Now doesn't that sound much more appealing, and describes how we use them. Shout Graham Sanders Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:38:19 -0400 (EDT) From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: fridge stuff Greetings folks, In HBD #3332, Dave Burley beat me to the keyboard to explain to the rest of the world what dorm fridges are... Great post Dave! I realized when I got email from other parts of the world wondering what I was talking about that I'd better post an explanation of the term. Dave did the job admirably. In the same digest, Rich Sieben asks if his fridge, with a punctured evaporator is worth repairing. I have to blush when I answer this because I once stabbed a hole in my apartment fridge evaporator while defrosting it with a steak knife (don't do this folks). If the fridge hasn't run a long time with the puncture it is a simple repair, normally done with a heat-set epoxy. The system is then evacuated and recharged. The bad part is that with today's refrigerant recovery regulations in the US, it's likely to be more expensive to repair the fridge than to replace it. Jim Booth has the nerve to blame me personally and my industry collectively for the US perception that beer has to be as cold as you can get it and still be liquid. I'll have you know, Jim, that without me and "my industry" you'd be served Budweiser at cellar temperature and would actually be able to taste it - that would be a baaad thing :-P I actually prefer to see Bud and the rest of the megabrew stuff stay in the cooler. I'll buy good stuff instead and let it warm to the proper serving temperature, thank you. BIG Smileys!!! George de Piro described his use of a small window air conditioner as a cooling unit for a cold room and the moisture-related problems he experienced. Window AC units are high-temperature refrigeration units with an evaporator design temperature of 35 degF. If sized correctly for a given application - and undersizing is preferable to oversizing, these units will properly dehumidify the space. Too large a unit will simply drop the space temperature and shut off before much moisture is removed from the air. The high evaporator temperature of a window AC unit will have a limited ability to remove moisture at lower room temperatures however - even if it is run continuously. It is critical to have air-tight joints, vapor barrier and door gasketing in any cold room, and even more so when using a window AC unit. Improvements in any of these areas will help provide better moisture control. A better solution is to use a medium temperature refrigeration unit, which will have a lower evaporator temperature (usually about 0 degF). Most commercial cold rooms use such a system, as do domestic refrigerator/freezers. Again it is important not to oversize the unit for best dehumidification performance. For example, a 6'x6' commercial walk-in would likely use a unit with roughly 3000 BTU/HR capacity. This type of unit will also require a periodic defrost cycle to clear the evaporator of accumulated ice buildup. Hope this helps! - -------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2000 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:56:27 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Brix, Balling, and Plato On Mon, 22 May 2000 Frank Tutzauer wrote: >For our anniversary, my dear wife bought me a refractometer for >taking gravities, so I need the low down on Brix, Balling, and >Plato. My homebrew books are fairly sketchy on the topic. > >As I've been investigating Brix, Balling, and Plato (see my >refractometer questions)... [many questions omitted here] Frank, see, your wife is very smart. By buying you this toy she believes that she has kept you busy and out of trouble (or out of her hair) for quite some time. Wives are very cunning in this respect. Now, we husbands have to be even smarter and use psychology to our advantage. Pretend to lose interest in the device and soon she will see the need to get you a different one! I've managed to weasel a new chest freezer, temperature controller and draft serving tower in this manner. I'll be going for the refractometer soon, bud! But alas, for me it will not last. In two months I'll have a child to compete with - and you know who will win. But don't ya just love new toys! ;-) Carpe cerevisiae! Glen Pannicke http://www.pannicke.net "He was a wise man who invented beer" - Plato Return to table of contents
Date: 23 May 2000 07:42:03 -0400 From: RCAYOT at solutia.com Subject: SG Recently there have been questions regarding Specific Gravity: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: SG at 68F -- new reference temp Franks questions were right on. Here is the definition of Specific Gravity from the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (52nd Ed.) "Specific Gravity- The ratio of the mass of a body to the mass of an equal volume of water at 4 degrees C or other specified temperature." Well what I gather form this is that the answer to the following questions: "Situation 1. Let's say I've got two hydrometers, an old one calibrated to 60F and a new one calibrated to 68F. I've just brewed a wort, the temp of which is exactly 60F. I put the old hydrometer in it, and it reads 1.040. Under the old system, I would have written in my log book, "OG = 1.040." Ok, good. Now I warm the wort to exactly 68F. My old hydrometer of course now reads something different. But if I put the new hydrometer in the 68F wort, it reads 1.040, so again, I write in my log "OG = 1.040." This situation does not make sense to me because if 1.040 means "1.040 times the density of water at 60F" then the wort would also be "1.040 times the density of water at 68F" -- and of course the wort can't be both." Is that of course they can both have a SG of 1.040! The ratio of the mass of wort to water is the same (or very very nearly so) at BOTH TEMPERATURES! Because the DENSITY of both water and wort changes with temperature in the same way (or nearly so). The difference would be that the temperature correction would be slightly different for the two hydrometers. I would imagine that if you put the two hydrometers in water at 60F then the 60F calibrated hydrometer would read zero, and the 68F calibrated hydrometer would read slightly high, exactly as high as the temperature correction, vice versa. Regards, Roger Ayotte Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:09:45 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Mead and Honey I keep reading everybody saying that 'Zymurgy refers to the art of fermentation'. And eveybody takes this to mean that mead and honey articles are fine in Zymurgy. Well, every bottle of commercial mead I have ever seen says 'Honey Wine' on it. I could also argue that wine is a fermented beverage, too. Now, does anybody out there want to see half of each issue of Zymurgy taken up with wine articles, like some of the issues of BYO used to? People do make wine at home, so it is a 'homebrewed' beverage, too. Personally, I think there has to be some seperation. I question why either mead or cider (and any of their variants) are listed in the style guidelines as categories of beer. They are not beer. They are much closer to wine. I think the AHA and BJCP should remove these from their style guidelines, since they are not beer. But that is my opinion. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:09:44 -0500 (CDT) From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Subject: Boneyard Brew-Off, Champaign IL, June 9-10 Entry period now open!!! http://www.uiuc.edu/ro/BUZZ/contest6.html The 6th Annual Boneyard Brew-Off will be held on June 10, organized by the Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots, Champaign Illinois. Entries will be accepted now through June 6 in all 1999 BJCP categories (beer, mead, and cider). We are also continuing our tradition of a No One Gets Out Alive High-gravity category, with a hedonic judging of any beer or mead with a starting gravity over 1.070. Details are available on the World Wide Web at the site above. Entry forms are available for download, and have been snail-mailed to regional clubs and judges. Judges can also sign up on the web, and are welcome at the Judge Social on Friday, June 9 as well as the traditional BBQ dinner after the competition. To receive a hard copy of the materials, send us your mailing address. Contacts: Competition Organizer: Brian Paszkiet <bpaszkie at uiuc.edu> Judge Director: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at uiuc.edu> Registrar: Brian Beyer <brianb at soltec.net> - -- "I would say it's virtually impossible not to gain an appreciation for goodbeer through homebrewing." - T. Davie Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:02:28 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Munich Helles Style Series book? I saw an ad awhile ago that said a new Style Series book was supposed to be coming out for Munich Helles in May. This is near the end of May, and so far, I can't find it anywhere. Has anybody heard or read anything? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:33:13 -0500 From: Brian Pickerill <bpickerill at mac.com> Subject: SG at 68F -- new reference temp >This situation does not make sense to me because if >1.040 means "1.040 times the density of water at 60F" then the >wort would also be "1.040 times the density of water at 68F" -- >and of course the wort can't be both. Actually, it can. Both the temp of the water AND the wort are moved from 60F to 68F in your example. The ratio remains the same. - --Brian Pickerill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 15:00:26 EDT From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com> Subject: freezing malt extract Re: As far as freezing malt extract goes, the high sugar content ( at least the ones I used) keeps these from molding or fermenting, in my experience, and no reason to freeze them, just chill in the fridge in a covered plastic or glass container - not the can. But do keep them in the fridge to slow down the browning reaction, even unopened, if you keep them for a long time. I used to keep a cube( 33 lb.) of extract in the fridge, but alas one brewday as I went to add some to the pot, there was a layer of mold !! In a panic I called my local Homebrew supply guy and he suggested I simply remove the mold,and continue, seeing as it would be boiled anyway. I scraped off the mold, boiled it an extra 15 minutes (am I paranoid, or what?) Everything turned out fine, it was a good batch. I have kept a thin layer of vodka on the extract to eliminate this from happening again. Al ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 14:53:36 -0700 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: Broken Fridge It just occured to me that someone here might be able to help me out with my problem. I have a side-by-side fridge/freezer which has served me well for about 2 years. It came with the house, so I don't know how old it is. (A tip for these models: put the probe for your external thermostat in the freezer and set it for 32. Perfect temp for that keg that's lagering or for serving the pilsner, and the fridge side will maintain around 55 as a side effect-- great for cellaring and serving English ales.) Anyway, we recently moved it from one wall of the brewhouse to the other. We walked it, so there shouldn't have been a tipping problem. But when we plugged it back up, it wouldn't work. The freezer side cools a little (maintains a 20-30 F drop), but the fridge side doesn't work at all. And there's no compressor noise (have no idea how the freezer side is cooling). An additional wrinkle that might have something to do with it-- we had to plug it in through an outdoor extension cord (electrical problems with some of the outlets that I haven't gotten around to fixing). Any thoughts? Thanks, Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:53:56 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: brew/zymurgy >From the OED: brew a. trans. Properly: To make (ale, beer, and the like) by infusion, boiling, and fermentation. mead a. An alcoholic liquor made by fermenting a mixture of honey and water: also called metheglin. zymurgy The practice or art of fermentation, as in wine-making, brewing, distilling, etc and FWIW and extensive search of various quotation databases has yet to turn up the often cited ben franklin quita about god and beer. This involved using known quotation sites and various sites about ben franklin Jim Liddil North Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 17:47:58 -0500 (CDT) From: Leo Vitt <vitt at rchland.vnet.ibm.com> Subject: Zymurgy - Honey Issue There are a lot of comments about the Honey Issue of Zymurgy. Opinion: I actually thought this was a decent issue. I think better than those of the last year at least. This is probably because I am interested in mead. Yes, I already knew a fair portion of what is covered. But I think the articles are better than the mead articles I read in previous Zymurgys. They actually gave specifics instead of just covering the topic in a broad since. Someone questioned covering mead in Zymurgy. I am interested in beer, mead, wine and cider. Many brewers I know make a least 2 of these. Leo Vitt (vitt at rchland.vnet.ibm.com) Rochester, Minnesota (507)253-6903 t/l 553-6903 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 19:51:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: Efficiency Percentage hi folks, Dryw asked about his poor extraction efficiency... first of all, how are you calculating your extraction efficiency? it would be good to describe this. i've seen several different methods posted to the list since i've been reading. what are you using to filter the sweet liquor from the grain? that is, are you using a false bottom, EZ-masher or some other type of manifold? frequently, low extraction rates are related to the formation of channels in the grain. when this happens, much of the grain is never rinsed with the hot sparge water and the sugars in that area remain there. additionally, water can flow easily between the grain and the wall of your mash tun also avoiding the grain. another problem might be poor conversion. how confident are you about the temperature in the mash? i've found this to be *very* forgiving (i've mashed from 150-158 F) but if you're too low or too high you will have problems. finally, be sure that your grain isn't old. enzymatic activity in old grain, or grain that wasn't stored properly, can decrease to the point where conversion is poor. hope this helps! -patrick in toronto (i have brew photos online now: http://www.finerty.net/pjf/interests/brewing) On May 22, 2000, Dryw Blanchard wrote: > Hi all, > > I have just finished my second all grain batch and > both have had an extraction efficiency of about 57%. > I tried sparging longer and a little hotter on the > second batch (dead on 170F for 90 minutes). Can > anyone give me any suggestions for boosting my > efficiency rates. Private e-mails are fine. Thanks. > Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 20:01:33 -0400 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at vms.arizona.edu> Subject: aha mission statement To promote public awareness and appreciation of the quality and variety of BEER through education, research and the collection and dissemination of information; to serve as a forum for the technological and cross cultural aspects of the art of brewing; and encourage responsible use of BEER as an alcohol-containing beverage. Having said that I would say that at least the technical and typographical errors seem to have been reduced in recent issues Jim Liddil North Haven, CT My Echelon Triggers: Security, Warfare, Terrorism, Defense, National Information Infrastructure, Reno, Compsec, Passwords, Espionage, USDOJ, NSA, CIA, Counterterrorism, spies, eavesdropping, interception, 2600 Magazine, top secret, Mossad, 50BMG, Cypherpunks, Nuclear, counterintelligence, fraud, assassin, virus, anarchy, rogue, mailbomb, BATF, OSS, Bill of Rights, Freedom of thought, Unalienable rights, Big Brother, Privacy, Repressive government, McCarthyism letterbomb carbomb detonator ANFO fuse altimeter Hillary PGP Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:47:16 -0400 From: "Jim & Jeanine Steinbrunner" <steinbrunner at tm.net> Subject: Fixing bottle geysers First-time post after lurking for awhile... My latest of several dumb newbie beer tricks... After a late-evening bottling of an extract nut brown ale clone, I awoke with a nagging fear: how much priming sugar did I add? I used all of the pre-bagged corn sugar from the homebrew shop without measuring, thinking the store bagged for 5-gallon batches (apparently not). Oh well, I thought, not much I can do for now. Now, after 2+ weeks in the bottle, I lose a third of the beer to foam before I can pour, or I have to repeatedly "burp" the cap to let off some pressure. I'm really pleased with the head longevity, but in this case it makes my problem worse, as the head won't settle after gushing out of the bottle. I'm not patient enough to work for a half hour or more, burping my beer before I can drink it - that should come after drinking! I searched the archives for suggestions, but burping the caps was the best I found. Any other ideas? TIA - private email is fine. Jim Steinbrunner Midland, MI (about 100 miles north of Rennerian 0,0,0) Return to table of contents
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