HOMEBREW Digest #3355 Mon 19 June 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re: cider pointers (Dick Dunn)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  Re: Shame On South Australia ("Dave Edwards")
  Fermenting Cornies (Roger Whyman)
  Re: Schlitz (Jeff Renner)
  Re: 6 row malt (Jeff Renner)
  RE: mystery beer (Demonick)
  Re: Stroh's fate? (Jeff Renner)
  Re: mystery beer (Jeff Renner)
  Wyeast ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Re;  P-cooking (William Frazier)
  Re: P-decoction (Lance Levsen)
  Aspirators/venturi tubes (EdgeAle)
  Re: The Jethro Gump-BT Report (David Lamotte)
  rubbery stuff in wort (AA8JZDial)
  Bloody computer, photos, cornie fermenters, my Biere de Garde ("Graham Sanders")
  diacetyl problem in Export (Pete Gottfried)
  CAP yeast (John Varady)
  Iodophor & TSP ("A.Carminati")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 17 Jun 00 00:40:12 MDT (Sat) From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: re: cider pointers "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> wrote: > tomorrow we are going to an Adelaide Hills orchard for an > apple crush, fresh juice for 70 cents/litre. Of course I'm going to make a > cider but all my books are in storage and I need a few pointers please, > > 1. I want to avoid a boil, is one vital? No. In fact, boiling apple juice would do serious harm to your cider. > 2. if I pitch 14 grams of Coopers dried yeast (lots) will campden tablets > be necessary? 14 grams per what volume? Later you said 20-25 liter--if that's what you mean, then 14 g is plenty. But no, Campden tablets are not necessary if you're working with clean juice and you've got adequate viable yeast. A nontrivial number of hobby and small-scale-commercial cidermakers make very nice ciders without Campden tablets *and* without pitching a yeast...they use just the natural yeasts available on the apples. (You probably don't want to try this for your first cider.) If you do use Campden tablets, allow about a day before pitching a yeast culture. And don't get carried away. I've seen recommendations to use as much as 2 tablets per gallon...which is insane! If I were going this route I might use 2 tablets in a 5-gallon (5 US gal is about 19 liters) batch. > 3. will yeast nutrient or energizer be necessary? No. Apple juice has plenty of nutrients. The more common problem is that it will ferment too quickly, rather than too slowly...which is to say that you'll have all the nutrient you need and then some. > 4. should I add sugar of any form? High alcohol isn't that important. Even if you don't want high alcohol, you do want enough alcohol to get its preservative effect. Check the gravity of the juice. If it's at least 1.045, you're marginally OK. If it's over 1.050 you should be fine. If you're in the marginal range, you might add just enough sugar to get up over 1.050. If you don't have a hydrometer handy, the main criterion is that the apples be fully ripe at pressing so that they have enough sugar. (It can be hard to tell by taste, because acid and tannin can deceive you into thinking the sugar isn't present.) My bias is that if you don't need to add sugar to get the gravity up to a safe value, don't add anything. Adding sugar increases the alcohol without changing the other characteristics much, so it can make the cider appear to be "thin" (lacking body, lacking other tastes to balance), or harsh. Shameless plug: Discussion of cider-making can be found on the Cider Digest. To subscribe, send email with the word "subscribe", your email address, and your full name, to cider-request@ talisman.com. This is something akin to the HBD, only on a much smaller scale. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 02:52:05 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at isunet.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report >From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> >Subject: Polyclar / cornies / HSA ><SNIP> >Lynne O'Connor commented about or favorite thread: HSA >>Since brewing scientists can't reach a consensus on the importance of hsa, >>I'd be disappointed if homebrewers did. >This is the only sensible comment I've heard on HSA so far! All this >postulating, formulating and experimenting... it's fakakta! ABSOLUTE RUBBISH!! Avoid the question if you wish...I will avoid HSA! (Why do you think Victory Brewing paid more than market to build their brewery? Specifically to avoid HSA!.....Conversely.... Why do you think most brewing advocates on this subject have never operated a brewery?...I don't know!) My efforts gain results...others postulate.....YMMV...My mileage is personal practice based...and effective.... >From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> >Subject: Liquid vs. dry yeast (for newbies) >Yes, liquid yeasts are usually a cleaner yeast culture with less >contamination. (I'm told that dry yeasts have improved greatly, but I >haven't used a dry yeast in years.) I think it is great that you went >right for the liquid yeast as a Newbie Brewer. Using liquid yeast and a >wort chiller are the two easiest things a newbie can do to make better >beer. ><SNIP> >Ted at the Prohibition Park Brewery, Staten Island > >"Jay Hummer" <jayhumm at zdnetonebox.com> asks >> What's the deal with liquid vs. dry yeast? ><snip> >> What's a newbie to do? >> Jay Hummer Sorry, Ted...but as one who states that he hasn't used a dry yeast in years...you know not of what you speak..... I offer no complaints about liquid yeast, I have used them/sold them myself.....and they do offer advantages that are not available to dry yeast users...mainly selection, variety...and they are great products..... And I personally am proud to know the owners of the major liquid yeast manufacturers...They make a great product.......and are truly grand people..... But dry yeasts do offer other advantages, namely not having to plan days in advance of a brew with starters.....and more.... Certainly, it is possible to brew beers with dry yeasts that are capable of winning awards on a National, and International circuit, even with high gravity beers.... I would appreciate it if, as you state, not having used them in years, that you don't issue statements that proclaim that dry yeasts are more contaminated than wet yeasts.... They were great yeasts when I was in a position to use them commercially....and have only improved since..... You are mistaken...Sir. Cheers! Jethro Gump Rob Moline 515-268-1836 hm 515-450-0243 cell brewer at isunet.net jethro at isunet.net Lallemand AHA AHABOA IBS MBAA Siebel Alumni Ames Brewer's League Brew Rat Gold Medal, 1996 GABF, Barleywine, Dry Yeast, Nottingham, Lallemand, (10.44 % ABV) Gold Medal, Barleywine, 1997 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, Barleywine,1996 World Beer Cup, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, Porter, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, Amber Ale, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, American Pale Ale, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, American Blond Ale, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Bronze Medal, Wheat Ale, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Bronze Medal, Raspberry Wheat Ale, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Silver Medal, Peated Porter, 1996 World Beer Championships, Dry Yeast, Lallemand Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:05:33 +0930 From: "Dave Edwards" <eddiedb at senet.com.au> Subject: Re: Shame On South Australia Phil wrote: | But what I am upset about is the beer available on tap at the Adelaide | casino. It was once that Coopers Pale Ale, Sparkling Ale and Dark Ale was | available. Now Coopers has been dumped completely. Very sad. The closest you | can now get is a Southwark Pale Ale, nothing but a Coopers copy. This is to | a foreigner a great pity. I was hoping to show off your casino to Steve | Alexander (the great betting man) but I doubt he will like the Southwark. Phil, you should come now, Southwark have released a new beer, Southwark White. It's not in bottles yet, just a limited release on tap at certain locations. I don't know if it's at the casino, but the beer itself is quite tasty, kind of like what West End Draught would taste like if made by a homebrewer, as in that it has a good flavour. I'll admit also that I would sit and listen to Roy and HG on the radio commenting the State of Origins, and that during the world cup, I would stay up into the wee hours of the morning watching the wallabies ANIHILATE all of those lesser sporting 'nations'. So I suppose it's cheers to football of any code, as long as it's played by an Aussie. Cheers, Dave. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 08:06:08 -0600 From: Roger Whyman <rwhyman at mho.com> Subject: Fermenting Cornies Dave Burley writes: <Often the topic comes up of using cornies for fermenters. I am not being <critical but I am often puzzled why one would do this. <I can think that perhaps it is possible to get several cornies into a <fridge for temperature controlled fermenting, versus perhaps only one <carboy because of the shape of the respective vessels, but are there other <reasons? I could imagine the cornie used for this purpose is difficult to <keep clean, isn't it? What with all those nooks and crannies around the <fittings, the difficulty in making a good seal and such. How do you remove <that bathtub ring easily? Aren't you limited to say 4+ gallons of beer <versus 5 gallons? As a brewer that has fermented in 10 gal. cornies for a long time(with a wall full of ribbons), I would say "Don't knock it if you haven't tried it" Rog Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:15:08 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Schlitz Bob Hall <nap_aca_bh at nwoca.org> >Wow, I'd didn't know there were other 'old' Schlitz fans. That was my >brew of choice during my Navy days in the late '60s at Pensacola and Key >West. Got back home and the Ohio Schlitz didn't taste as good, so that >relationship ended. Anyone else notice a difference? Bob - I wonder if you were getting 3.2 beer (3.2% avw, 4% abv) when you got back in Ohio. Back in the 60's when I came of age in Ohio, and until the drinking age nationally was temporarily dropped to 18 in the 70's some time, that's all 18-20 year olds could buy, or anyone on Sundays. Even if you were over 21, that may have been what you were getting. The strong beer was called 6 per cent - not that it was, just maximum allowable. It was probably only 4% abw/5% abv. Just another reason you Aussies can be glad you got the convicts and we got the religious zealots. The 3.2 limit was an arbitrary limit from the end of prohibition, when it was decided that that level was non-intoxicating and could be sold before the passage of the 21st amendment ending prohibition. That non-intoxicating designation was challenged every weekend by huge numbers of 18 year olds. Oxford, Ohio, home of Miami University, reputedly had the highest level of per-capita 3.2 beer consumption in the nation. Speaking of Pensacola and the Navy, I hope you all will indulge me a little fatherly pride here on Father's Day weekend and let me brag on my son, Matt. He called me Thursday from Pensacola to say that I was speaking with the Navy's newest carrier qualified pilot! He was out of the jet by the time he called, but let me tell you, he was still flying high. He said that the catapault shot off the end of the Enterprise was like nothing else in the world. To make this last part beer related, he said they were going out to McGuire's brewpub to celebrate. It has money from all over the world taped on the walls from patrons. The beer's fairly good if you can keep them from serving it in iced mugs. And it isn't 3.2%. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:24:11 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: 6 row malt Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com wrote: >2 row's Diastatic power is >usually around 140. 6 row is slightly more, usually about 150. Minor refinement of the numbers - Briess's web page says 6-row is 140, 2-row is 120. Same diff'. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 08:14:18 -0700 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: RE: mystery beer A quick net search yielded these 2 links and others. http://www.enquirer.com/editions/1999/01/07/fin_hudepohl_beer_brands.html http://www.cincys-brewery.com For 112 years the combined brewing heritage of the Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing Company has provided Cincinnati with quality, fresh beer produced with pride by generations of family brewers. Cincinnati was the nation's most famous and fabulous brewing center in the late 19th century. About 95% of the beer consumed locally was produced by one of the 36 local breweries, and Cincinnatians consumed more beer per capita than the people of any other city in the nation. The Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing Company was created in a 1986 merger of the 101 year old Hudepohl Brewing Company and the 55 year old Schoenling Brewing Company. The union now represents the last of the original great Cincinnati breweries. In 1885 Ludwig Hudepohl II (pronouned "Hudy-pole"), the son of German immigrants, and George Kotte founded the Hudepohl and Kotte Brewing Company by purchasing the already thriving Koehler Brewery, popularly known as the Buckeye Brewery. The new owners continued producing a Buckeye Beer along with their new labels: Dortmunder, Muenchener and of course, Hudepohl. The 18th Amendment known as the Volstead Act or "Prohibition" all but producing "near beer" and soft drinks. DID YOU KNOW? During WWII, Hudepohl Beer was selected by the war department for use by American GI's in the Pacific theater of operations. The beer was parachuted to troops stationed at hundreds of US island bases. Today Hudepohl-Schoenling continues to celebrate Cincinnati's long standing tradition of beer making with a portfolio of many fine beverages. In 1996 Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing Co. entered into a supply agreement with The Boston Beer Company, producing many of Boston's beers. This production/brewing arrangement still continues however in early 1997 Boston Beer acquired the facility and Hudepohl-Schoenling acquired the supply agreement. We all look forward to many years of brewing great beer. Prosit! - -------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:01:53 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Stroh's fate? James Jerome <jkjerome at bellsouth.net> wrote: >In light of the recent thread concerning Schlitz, I was curious if >anyone on the list can provide information on what happened to Stroh's. <snip> >A few years ago while traveling, I bought some Stroh's in a blue can to >stock the hotel fridge. T ... Very bad choice. ... > Was this a typical experience?, or just a >poorly stored or old batch? What happened to Stroh's? Did their beer >change and like Schlitz they lost a 'generation' of loyal consumers? I suspect that either it was a badly stored pack or your taste buds changed. Its sales have dropped so much that it doesn't move as fast as the big names. After years of dancing in the merger/acquisition dance, Stroh's was sold last year to Miller and Pabst and different breweries are brewing it. Doubt that the differences would be all that great. Here's a little of what I know about Stroh's. First, for some years they've brewed with corn syrup, not grits. That saves money since they don't have to have a cereal cooker and they can brew a greater capacity in the mash kettle (no grits). Early this century, one of the Stroh's boys came back from Germany convinced that direct fired kettles made a difference, and so they tore out the steam heat and added burners, and touted that Stroh's was "Fire Brewed." They dropped this a few years ago. There's a big non-technical chapter on Stroh's in the book _Brewed in Detroit_ by Peter Blum, Stroh historian and brewing chemist. Mr. Blum will be speaking at the National Homebrew Conference in Livonia (Detroit) next week. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:16:35 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: mystery beer Birder Nina Cohen <nina at swva.net> asks about >two rusty old beer cans. They're shaped like a tin >of beans rather than a modern beer can, and have two opposing >'triangles' in the lid to drink through instead of the usual single >triangle. They have a gold label and I think the beer is called >'Hudepohl', with a brewery in Cincinnati, Ohio. ... > Why did they have two holes instead of >just one? I've never seen anything like it. Nina, you must be younger than about 35 or so. You've given old timers like me a chuckle. Beer cans used to have no pull tabs and were indeed just like a can of beans. That's what the pointy part of a "church key" was for. You hooked the little hook on the key under the lip and pressed the sharp point into the top of the can, then turned it 180 degrees and did it again, the poured the beer out. The second triangular opening let air into the can so the beer flowed out of the other hold without glugging. Often you'd make the second opening smaller. I'd guess that pull tabs are something like 30 years old, but beer can collectors would know for sure. Hudepohl was one of the old Cincinnati brands that I grew up with (along with Burger, Schoenling, Bavarian, Weidemann, and maybe another one or two). It was operating way under capacity and doing contract brewing for Boston Brewing (Sam Adams) and others. Then about two years ago Boston Brewing bought the brewery. I think they are still brewing Hudepohl. I think there are sort of "field guides" for beer cans that might help you date the can. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 12:57:25 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: Wyeast Jason asks about a slow Wyeast pack: >Last week I smacked a pack of this yeast in preparation to brew an Oatmeal stout. I dutifully waited a couple days, and then a couple more and then a couple more. No growth. Nothing. Remember you need to add about a day for each month after manufacture date for activation. We keep XL packs for 5 months only, and the regular packs a little longer. A XL pack older than 5 months needs a starter. All regular 50ml packs should use a starter. >Now, after about 8 days of sitting at room temperature (all conditions have been fine with the package - from purchase to today), I finally see the package expand. What I thought was dead yeast was simply slow. We've never ever had a pack fail to swell, but if it took this long, you definitely need to make a starter to use this yeast. Otherwise your lag time will be too long, risking infection, and poor attenuation. It doesn't take a very high population to make the pack swell, but you want to have at least 40 billion, and if it took 8 days to swell, I think it doesn't have enough. >Here is my question. I have another brew day scheduled for a week or so from now. It is going to be a light-bodied honey ale. Will the Irish ale yeast be a decent yeast for such a light-bodied ale? Or will it create an odd taste? (I have only used 1084 for stouts and have been happy with it). The 1084 will be malty and somewhat estery, it will accentuate what malt you do have in the recipe, and de-emphasize the hops. I'd recommend something like 1275 for a honey ale, because I prefer clean and dry. For something softer 1318 would be my choice. >Should I run and pick up new pack for the next session and scrap the 1084? Nope, as long as you are willing to make a starter now, and feed it at least once, so it will be ready for brew date. See www.paddockwood.com/guide_yeast_starters.html for info on starters. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 19:00:29 +0000 From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re; P-cooking Eric Tepe asks about using p-cookers for decoction, "I have a new pressure cooker and am wanting to try a p-decoction. My main question is do I decoct the thick part of the mash or just the first runnings?" Eric-The simple answer is yes to the mash and to the first runnings. Be sure to follow the p-cooker instructions and use a covered inner pot for all p-boils. I've been using a large p-cooker for some months and owe a big thanks to Charles Rich for help getting started. Also thanks to Jeff Renner for his help with CAPs and Gregg Howard and Doug King for their help with rice beers. I've made six lager/pilsners using the p-cooker to-date and plan on using it for all my pilsners in the future. My Goldenrod recipe for a four-grain pilsner follows with info on how I used the p-cooker (5 gallon batch size). Pilsner malt (DWC) 6.8 lbs 79% Corn meal (Aunt Jemima) 0.6 7 Rice (long grain) 0.6 7 Malted wheat (DWC) 0.6 7 Grains crushed with a Corona Mill. Rice crushed quite small. German Hallertau Hersbruck leaf hops (3.0 %AAU) 2.5 HBU First Wort Hopped 2.5 HBU 60 minutes 1.2 HBU 45 minutes 1.2 HBU 20 minutes Estimated IBU at 28.8 using Noonan's formula Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager Soft water used with added calcium chloride Sparge water acidified to pH 6 with lactic acid P-CEREAL MASH Combine 1 gallon brewing water, corn meal, rice and 1/2 lb pilsner malt. Heat to 150F in a small, covered brew pot. Rest 15 minutes. P-cook for 20 minutes at 15 psi. Place the p-cooker in a sink of cold water to force cool. Takes about 3 minutes. This combination should be cooked in a covered pot but I haven't had any problem with boil over at this stage. It speeds things up if you have the water in the p-cooker boiling when you place the small brew pot inside. By doing this the pressure starts to build toward 15 psi immediately. MASH Add 2-1/2 gallons brewing water to a preheated Igloo cooler. Add remaining grains. Add P-cereal mash and adjust temp. to 150F. Rest 30 minutes. P-DECOCTION Pull 1.25 gallon of very thick mash. Only enough mash liquid to cover the grains is included. P-cook for 30 minutes at 15 psi. Force cool as above. Add back to the main mash raising the mash temp to 154F. Rest 60 minutes. Again, use a covered pot but no problems with boil over at this stage. SPARGE I do not mash-out. Sparge as usual taking about 1 hour. Collect 1 gallon of first runnings in a small, covered brew pot. P-cook this fraction of the wort for 40 minutes at 15 psi while the remaining wort is collected. Force cool as above and add back to the bulk wort in the brew kettle. Use a covered pot large enough so you don't have to fill more than 2/3 full or it will boil over. I have had this unboiled wort boil over in the p-cooker and then it mixes with the water used to float the p-cooker false bottom. Since everyting is sterile this isn't a problem but it can mess up your boil time plans if you have to add this extra water when you transfer the p-cooker contents to the main boil. Might not hurt to bring the wort to a boil and let it settle down before raising the pressure. Starting sparge pH 5.23, brix 22.0 All pH readings at RT and brix with a hand-held refractometer. BOIL Total boil time was 75 minutes with hops added as shown above. The wort was force cooled with an immersion chiller. Cool wort was collected in a settling carboy and was aerated by rocking for NLT 4 minutes. I let the wort settle for 9 hours before pumping 5 gallons of crystal clear wort onto a yeast cake from a previous batch. Actual extraction was 64.1% for 30.0 pts/lb/gallon FERMENTATION OG 1052. Primary in glass at 50F for 14 days, SG 1009. Secondary in SS at 50F for 10 days, SG 1009. Lager in SS at 32-35F for one month. Rack to a serving keg and rest at 45F to serve with about 12 psi carbonation. The apparent attenuation was 82% even tho W2206 is rated at 73 to 77%. SG readings taken with narrow-range hydrometers at specified temperatures. The beer is now 2-1/2 months old and is crystal clear, pale yellow with a massive white head. There is a pleasing hop nose (FWH?) and a BIG-BODY mouthfeel even tho the FG was 1009. The beer has an assertive but mellow hop flavor and nice bitterness. IOW - One of the best beers I've brewed in the last ten years. Reminds me of the PBR my father drank back in the 50s and some other pretty good beers of that era. I have to think p-cooking contributes to the big mouthfeel in this beer and the smoothness that complements a very pleasant hop flavor. Wish you all could have a glass. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:16:22 -0600 From: Lance Levsen <l.levsen at printwest.com> Subject: Re: P-decoction Decoct the thick part of the mash first and work your way to a thin decoction, over a couple or three decoctions. I think the reasoning is that you don't want to denurture the enyzmes (being water soluable) too early in the game. Cheers, - -- Lance Levsen, Programmer Product Innovation,Web Development PWGroup - S'toon. 477-3166 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:02:26 EDT From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: Aspirators/venturi tubes "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> says >>I used to pull a light vacuum (maybe 15 - 20 psi) with a faucet aspirator in the lab. I don't know where to find one, but would like to for various reasons. I don't believe that they're very expensive. The aspirator attaches to the faucet and you run water through it into the sink. The<< American Science and Surplus used to sell plastic venturi tubes for about $2.50 (I think). They had hose threads for running water through and a plain unthreaded port where the suction was. A tube could be hose clamped here or just stuck on (the vacumm would hold it in place). Dana - ------------------------------------------ Dana Edgell Edge Ale Brewery, San Diego EdgeAle at cs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 11:07:26 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: The Jethro Gump-BT Report Sorry Jethro, But my experience does not agree with yours. I have heard all these "he is a good bloke.... give him time" sentiments before, but I am afraid that I have run out of time. I had a few issues left on my 2 year subscription, and was really impressd that Stephen was doing more than just 'take the money & run' which is so common in these situations. I sent away my request for back issues, and thinking that it would inject some much needed cash, supplied my credit card details to purchase some additional back issues. I did not take the option to forgive the debt, because at the price of A$10 per copy I though that I was already doing my bit to help. After a few months I was delighted to find a BT envelope in my mailbox. Inside was a couple of magazines - a small proportion of what I ordered. "Ah well, perhaps the rest had sold out" ... I reasoned. When my credit card statement arrived, I was furious to find that I had been charged for all the copies that I received. Messages sent to the BT email address, as well as Stephen's new one at Real Beer have gone unanswered. And now you tell us that he has heaps of mags available - he had my contact details, he had an envelope open with a stamp already on it. He chose to put only a few issues in and to charge me in full, contrary to my instructions. I have already paid for the postage, if Jethro is right, I can look forward with great excitement to another envelope arriving. Stephen is either a fool or a fraud. You can only discredit yourself by promising more than you can deliver - very foolish indeed. But deep down, I suspect the latter. David Lamotte Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 23:53:53 EDT From: AA8JZDial at aol.com Subject: rubbery stuff in wort Oh great beer wizards. Lend me an ear. Last night I was brewing about my 30th all grain batch. Rather then add gypsum to the hot liquor tank or the mash water I decided to just toss it in the grist. While the wort was rolling around I noticed this funky stuff sticking to the big spoon. Tannish brown color and had the consistancy of something between compacted rubber bands and cheap gum. So far no flavor consequences to my uneducated palate. My redheaded wife suggested the odd mashing technique and weird wort were related. Is it possible I had some adverse reactions with clumps of gypsum causing an over reaction to the malt since it was not homogenously mixed? If she is right I will take over cooking and she will become the chief brewer. But with that comes her splitting firewood, changing oil and 40 hours a week at the salt mines. Any insight? Rick Dial, AA8JZ North Muskegon, Mi. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 20:29:23 +1000 From: "Graham Sanders" <craftbrewer at cisnet.COM.AU> Subject: Bloody computer, photos, cornie fermenters, my Biere de Garde G'day All I'm going to have to get a bigger hard drive. Went to send the photos of my Cornie Fermenter to everyone, (my there's a lot of interest), well I overloaded the poor computer and killed the mouse running the wheel at the back. Then in my frustration to revive the mouse I got impatient and instead of giving a tiny cardiac massage, well I flattened the poor bugger and lost all my mail. So, if I haven't got back to you by now with information or photos, please contact me again and I will resend the information, (that includes the people who had specific questions). I have two mice now and drugs to help them along. I was asked by a number of people how do you clean the gunk out of them. Well, caustic soda NaOH is a great cleaner. Does the job beautifully. And to cut those flames off at the wick, yes it can be dangerous, but if used responsibly (like any chemical) its the best. And my BdG. Well she was kegged on the weekend. What a beauty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Dont know whether its the caramelisation, or the HSA I did, (and yes it may be a bit early to tell on this),or the Blanche de Chambley yeast used, or the grain bill, or any combination of these - But it tasted soooooooo BdG out of the fermenter. I see now where people talk about the taste of fresh BdG. So unique. I just cant wait to try it in two months (as some have suggested), as well as trying it against the other keg that has the wood in it. A most interesting experiment, scientific or not. Shout Graham Sanders Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 12:19:09 -0400 From: Pete Gottfried <petebrew at localnet.com> Subject: diacetyl problem in Export I brewed a Dort Export back in March using a repitch of Brewtek Swiss Lager yeast from a prior batch of Export. Fermentation was carried out on my basement floor and temp stayed in 54 degree range. After beer fermented out I racked to keg and lagered for roughly 6 weeks ( I don't think I did a diacetyl rest). Tasted it last week and it was everything I wanted it to be (the prior batch of Ex was a little too bitter). Moved the keg from lager to server. Let sit for a week, pulled it out of fridge for bottle filling for a competition, tasted it just to be sure and voila...DIACETYL! I know the diacetyl was not there last week. I'm very sensitive to it and would have picked up on it right away. The sample I pulled was loaded with yeast and I noticed the more yeast filled glasses I dumped the more the aroma went away. Let sit out all day in basement where I'm sure beer temp climbed to mid 60's, vented keg frequently, filtered it into another keg and just tasted. Diacetyl is still there but not as bad. My question is how the heck did the diacetyl get there if it wasn't there the week before? Could my liquid disconnect have been infected and in turn contaminated my beer when I took that first taste? Although I filtered can I add some krausen beer to it to help kill diacetyl or can I just do a yeast starter, say 1000 ml, and add that to the keg? Your help is greatly appreciated, Pete Gottfried Buffalo, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 12:59:54 -0400 From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: CAP yeast WRT my BOS CAP recipe, I used the Budvar yeast that St. Pats is selling as Wyeast 2000. Very nice yeast, I like it a lot. I fermented a 1st place Bohemian Pils, A BOS CAP, and a 2nd place Robust Porter (yeah! Lager Yeast rules in a porter) from the same smack pack (for a total of 70+ gallons over all). I think I might just order another. John John Varady * New email address ***> rust1d at usa.net Glenside, PA http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 20:53:44 -0300 From: "A.Carminati" <carminat at email.com> Subject: Iodophor & TSP Hi folks, My favorite sanitizer was bleach (for cost and availability) but since I'm changing to SS soda kegs I've tried Iodophor for the very first time. I added 1 TBS for 20 litres and (accordingly to some books I've been reading) something of Phosphoric Acid (food grade at 85 %). My plastic fermenter was already clean (with bleach) but this "magical" mixture produced lots of foam in it, when it was shaked. This foam was very persistent (about 30 min. to disapear) so I decided to rinse afterwards. Can anybody respond me if that is normal ? My other question is: I've found here (at very attractive prices) Tri-poli-sodium phosphate (a soap component for dish-wash machine or grease removers)... can it be used instead of trisodium phosphate (expensive) ? Thanks in advance to all that want to help Alexandre Carminati (in Brazil) carminat at email.com Return to table of contents
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