HOMEBREW Digest #3364 Thu 29 June 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Beer in Alaska ("Jamil")
  Oz in winter (William Frazier)
  re: yeast ("Stephen Alexander")
  San Miguel Brewery - Advice ("Graham Sanders")
  Wherarya? ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  Phil's antipathy (fred_garvin)
  plambic stuff (Jim Liddil)
  Lead and brass again ! ("Braam Greyling")
  re: Questions on mashing, sparging, and aeration (Bill.X.Wible)
  Lambic Pt. II ("Marc Gaspard")
  Temperature controllers (fridgeguy)
  Re: Old timey ( not that old) beers, Hudepohl and JD, church (Bill.X.Wible)
  Re: Questions on mashing, sparging, and aeration (Demonick)
  Re:  Charleston, S.C. and Savannah, GA ("Mark Nelson")
  RE: Temperature controller help... (LaBorde, Ronald)
  re: carbonic/pH ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re: Jim's Buckwheat Malt ("John Palmer")
  Aerated starters (Demonick)
  Oh Well ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re: Where in Oz.... (Bret Morrow)
  Framboise/Greece ("Philip J Wilcox")
  Questions ("Eric R. Lande")
  pop-tops (Paul Mahoney)
  More Ohio beer law trivia ("Eric Ahrendt")
  bulging extract can ("Al Beers")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:53:27 -0700 From: "Jamil" <jamilz at jps.net> Subject: Re: Beer in Alaska > As a Naval Reservist I'll be travelling to Ketchikan, Alaska from July 9 to > July 21. While there I'm sure I'll be EXTREMELY busy, but hope to break > away to taste some of the local beers. Any suggestions? Bars/pubs I just > NEED to go to? The Fogcutter seemed to be the local hangout, rather than the tourist hangout. Nice crowd, good beer. JZ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:01:57 +0000 From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oz in winter >OK Graham - I've got you spotted on the map. Now, for some time I've been trying to figure out how to avoid winter totally. If I spend my summers in the USA in Kansas (It's hot here in summer) how far north in your OZ would I have to stay in my winters (Nov-Feb) to avoid cold weather? I realize I would be giving up prime brewing weather to eliminate winter but there are chest freezers with proper thermostats to permit brewing of Lager regardless of ambient temp. > >I see there is a nice airport in Townsville so travel wouldn't be a problem. And the Great Barrier Reef is near by so lots of seafood to go with my White Dog Ale and 4-Grain Pils. Any restrictions on Ex-Pats living in OZ to escape winter? > >Thanks to Lyndon I've got him spotted in Adelaide. Because of my curiosity about where you OZ types live we now know that fine kit beers can be purchased in Adelaide, so Phil, even tho I still don't know where the Burradoo is you can drop down to Adelaide to pick up supplies for your next brew party. > >Concerning my OZ, we now have six confirmed spottings of Armadillos (alas as road kill) in the KC area. What's going on? > > Bill Frazier > Olathe, Kansas > > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 03:42:59 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: yeast Aaron Perry used WY1056 and an SNPA culture and is getting different flocculation characteristics. >the "direct from wyeast" >fementor is a normal looking 1056 ferment. The SNPA sediment >fermentor is very powdery ... I posted a while back on an EBC paper that was able, in only abt 10 ferments to select yeast that flocculated poorly. Later they reversed the selection process and retrieved the normal flocculation characteristics as quickly, What you are probably seeing is such a selection. Most commercial operations are less concerned w/ flocculation than we HBers are and so are less likely to select for it. 'Got an MBAATQ paper (somewhere) that studies the yeast population characteristics based on such selection. There are at least 9 flocculation genes (FLO1 .. FLO8, NewFlo) identified in various yeasts.It's likely the SNPA lacks it's FLO genes, what is more likely is that the two strains differ in so called "modifier genes" which impact the onset, degree and effectiveness of flocculation. [see JIB81, p242, Anderson&Margen]. >Did the SNPA sediment mutate? Since it's "Chico" yeast, more likely the WY1056 has changed. Is it a mutant ? In the same sense that you and I are Aaron. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:01:16 +1000 From: "Graham Sanders" <craftbrewer at cisnet.COM.AU> Subject: San Miguel Brewery - Advice G'day all Well it seems I cant get off the HBD at the momment, there's just too much going on. I should save some of this up for when the creative drought sets in, but over here droughts are too common, so its time to make hay. Being very serious for once, this time I write that one of our local homebrew shops is getting a special guest on Saturday. I need the professionals help here now, as I sometimes question the authentictity of this shops advice, not for the first time. The add says "Edar Salvador, qualified chemist and former Brew Master of 12 years at San Miguel Brewery will offer free advice this Saturday". Like most things this just seems too good to be true and i just cant believe someone like this would just rock in and offer advice. It would be like "Charlie P" suddenly turning up without warning at my house. I suspect the truth is in the fine print. Can any HBD'ers shed any light on this guy. Is it true?, or do I suspect the truth is being bent (or worse). Even if he was the Brew Master, was it a brewery of note, or a brewery wishing to be noticed. Any advise from the pro's would be welcome, especially if this is false advertising. The Home Brew industry doesn't need the bad publicity if this guy is not what is claimed, especially with the time some of us have taken trying to build it up. If you are worried about off comments, feel free to E-mail me directly. Shout Graham Sanders PS - Oh I hate it when I get serious about my hobby. Just wont let people run it into the ground, at least without a fight. (off soapbox) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:40:27 +0930 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: Wherarya? Bill writes:- >The latest National Geographic has a great, detailed >map of Australia. If you Oz types would tell us where you live we could >find you on the map. You might find Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills (aka Mount Lofty Ranges) 30 kilometres s/e of South Australias state capital, Adelaide. See you there some time! Thomas. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:00:45 -0400 (EDT) From: fred_garvin at fan.com Subject: Phil's antipathy Eric asked me to handle this situation with the Aussies, since his attentions have been usurped by a pending lawsuit involving an unattended camera at the NHC Pig Roast and an occupied bathroom stall. At any rate, I needed to bring myself up to speed, which meant improving my vocabulary. First, I determined the proper spelling of "antipathy", then looked it up at dictionary.com. How fortuitous to find this definition: antipathy n 1: a feeling of intense dislike [syn: aversion, distaste] 2: the object of a feeling of intense aversion; something to be avoided; "cats were his greatest antipathy" In the words of the freshly shorn Scott Abene, "hmmmmmmmmmmmm....." My only conclusion is that Phil must of meant to say that Eric was his "antipodie" which can be losely defined to be the person that occupies the space on the exact opposite side of the Earth from you. Eric and I consider this to be a badge of honor. Sorry I couldn't make the AHA NHC. Old bowling injury, you know. Fred Garvin, retired. Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Public Relations Dept. Kentwood, MI (Antipodal Burradoo) - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Get free email from CNN Sports Illustrated at http://email.cnnsi.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:13:05 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: plambic stuff > > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:05:36 -0400 > From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> > Subject: Fruit Lambic Question > > Joel had a question regarding Fruit Lambics as do I: > > >I have a friend who has requested a raspberry lambic, like Frambaise (sp). > >I believe it is a normal lambic, but for bottling instead of dry malt or > >corn sugar or wort, raspberries are used. The question is twofold: > >1. Is my theorem correct? > >2. If so, how much raspberry concentrate for a 5gal batch? > Please clarify what framboise the person is interested in. Are we talking about Lindeman's or Boon or maybe Cantillion? Lindemans is sweetened and pasteurized, the others are not. See the lambic digest archives for discussions of this issue. > > Cherry season is here and I now have about 15 lbs of cherries picked, > cleaned and sitting in the freezer waiting to be added to my 1 year old > plambic so I can make a kriek. However, I've got to make room in the > freezer before "She-who-can-bitch-much-and-make-your-life-miserable" says > anything about it. My problem is that the pellicle is still on the top of > the brew and I have been told not to disturb it. Let it crash naturally > before bottling otherwise you risk re-formation in the bottle or oxidation > of the beer. If the plambic shows promise this weekend I plan on thawing > the fruit and racking the beer on top of it - pellicle or not. I say go for it. Otherwise make a light wheat beer and use the fruit in it. Disturbing the pellicle is not that big a deal. Aeration is since it will induce brettanomyces regrowth and further conversion of alcohol to acetic acid. So rack carefully onto the fruit and see what you get. I'm always up for taste tests. :-) > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:09:41 -0500 > From: "Marc Gaspard" <mgaspard1 at kc.rr.com> > Subject: Lambics > > Lambics take a LONG time and require a lot of patience on the part of the > brewer. Since they are usually aged in oak, some lambic homebrewers > have oak casks for ageing. You can get around this by using oak chips. I beg to differ. the oak casks used in lambic production are old wine barrels and ahve little if any oakyness left. The thing the oak does do is harbor the various microorganisms and aloow limited air permeation. > lambics ferment out pretty fully and you need to add a dose of yeast > (1056 works fine) with your priming sugar, and you can prime fairly high, > say about 4 oz. per 3 gals. You want some fizziness. Many times cantillion is flat. carbonation is a matter of preference. > > Be sure to keep these fermenters separate from your other brews if poss- > ible; the different organisms can migrate and you don't want to infect the > rest of your brewery! Oh like geese. :-) This is a much stated momily. Look at the lambic digest and hbd archives for discussions about cleaning sanitation, microbiology etc. Yes we should all htank pat and karl and rob gardner, jay hersh, mike sharp and others who have run electronic digests and helped the transfer of information. Jim Liddil There is no heaven that's why we drink beer here. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 15:33:43 +0200 From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: Lead and brass again ! Hi Since I am rebuilding my brewery after we moved, I have a question. At the hardware store I found some ball-valves. Although on the label there is written "brass ball-valve", the ball-valve is not yellowish. It is more a silver colour. it doesnt look like the golden yellow colour of brass at all. Is it chrome plated ? Should it still be cleaned before it is used ? What about chromium, isnt it also poisonous ? Please help ! Best regards Braam Greyling Snr. Design Engineer Azoteq(Pty)Ltd PLEASE NOTE NEW CONTACT DETAILS: Tel +27 21 8711730 Fax +27 21 8711036 braam.greyling at azoteq.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:58:55 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: re: Questions on mashing, sparging, and aeration >Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:34:11 -0400 >From: Tom Riddle <ftr at oracom.com> >Subject: Questions on mashing, sparging, and aeration > >Hello all, > <snip> > >1) Add the grains to the water, or water to the grains ? >Or does it matter ? I seem to vaguely remember something >about balls of malt dust forming in one scenario, but not >the other ?? I sort of do both. I start out by putting about half the mash water in the mash tun, then adding grain to the water and stirring until it becomes thick. All the while, I keep the rest of may mash water on the flame to keep it hot, as I lose alot of heat this way. Then, when the mash is nice and thick, I add some more water, some more grain, some more water, some more grain, etc. until its all together. As long as you stir and combine well, I think the balled starch that Greg Noonan writes about in New Brewing Lager Beer, which is what I think you are referring to, will not be a problem. >2) When recirculating the first runnings, how clear is clear ? >Transparent or just free of particles ? Miller says to recirculate >for upto 15mins ?!?! Again I seem to vaguely recall something >about leaching tannins from the grain husk if you recirculate/sparge >too much ?? What are the consequences of not recirculating >enough ? I go for transparent. I usually recirculate a long time, sometimes I not as much of an expert as others on HBD, but I don't think sparging and recirculation are the same. Recirculation is the process of filtering saturated worth back through the mash grain, called Vorlauf in german. Spargig is rinsing the same grains after taking the initial runoff to obtain additional sugars. I think recirculation has nothing to do with leaching tannins. Some will argue that recirculation causes hot side aeration though, and there was a big debate about that recently. Oversparging or sparging with water that is too hot (more than 170 degrees) will leach tannins and cause astringency. >3) Concerning aeration of wort before pitching. This is one >topic that seems to have gotten very popular over the past >few years. Is an aquarium or hand pump really necessary or >will a simple venturi device (copper tubing with a few small >holes drilled into it) at the end of the racking tube suffice ? I aerate by pouring the cooled wort from my 5 gallon pot through a strainer into the primary bucket from a good height of about 4 feet. This creates a good foam, and it is obvious this aerates the wort. I do not use any kind of pump or stone. I have used in the past a stick-like device that attaches to your drill. It is about 3 feet long and has perforated 'wings' that swing out and aerate the wort. I can't tell if this device has made a whole lot of difference in any of my beers, though. It seems to work OK. Anybody else got one of these? Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:10:07 -0500 From: "Marc Gaspard" <mgaspard1 at kc.rr.com> Subject: Lambic Pt. II Glen asked; <snip> 1. Is disturbing the pellicle in any manner a strict NO-NO and if so why? I doubt that anyone over there in Patyottenland is peering through the bunghole of a wooden cask to check. I think they just funnel the fruit in regardless. 2. Since I'll be racking the beer from underneath the pellicle, should I take all or some of it along along as well? It's pretty thin and probably can be racked with the beer. 3. Would it hurt to pitch another small starter of Chico (or other clean ale yeast) when I rack on top of the fruit? I think most of the ale yeast (S. cerevisiae strain) will be long dead and consumed by the other bacteria present in the lambic culture? <end snip> Glen, I had a similar situation a year ago with some extra framboise I had in a gallon jug that had developed a powdery pellicle. I emailed Jim Liddell, who's very knowledgeable about lambics and his suggestion was to try and disturb the pellicle as little as possible (obviously you're going to dis- turb it somewhat pushing a racking cane thru it ;-)) rack from under the pellicle and leave as much of it behind as possible. And yes, I would definitely recommend pitching some more 1056 at bottling time and slightly increase your priming dose; otherwise you'll get one flat lambic. On a side note; at last year's AHA National's in Olathe, KS, I did a presentation on lambics for beginners and had the good fortune to meet Doug Faynor, who made the commemorative gueuze for the conference, and Charles Gottenkienney, a master lambic brewer and only two-time winner of AHA National BOS. Both feel (and convinced me) the desig- nation "plambic" is unnecessary. After all, we're using as close as we can get to the real ingredients used in making lambics. My only difference is I have cherry tree in my front yard and that's what I use. Marc Gaspard "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."-Ben Franklin "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."-Ben Franklin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:12:01 -0500 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: Temperature controllers Greetings folks, In HBD #3363, Pat Babcock apparently forwarded a post by Stephen Klump? concerning his failed temperature controller. Williams has been selling Johnson A19 controllers for quite awhile so I'll assume this is the controller in question. When wired for cooling, as it would be for starting a chest freezer compressor, the switch in the controller (single pole, double throw or SPDT) will close as the temperature at the sensor bulb rises. The capillary tube and sensor bulb are filled with a liquid/gas mixture that expands when heated. The bulb and cap tube are connected to a metal bellows. Rising pressure in the cap tube/bellows/bulb causes the bellows to expand and press against the switch plunger, actuating the switch. Since this is a SPDT switch it has three terminals and may be wired to "close on rise" or "open on rise", to use Johnson's terminology. We have the controller wired "close on rise", so if the gas leaked out of the bulb, the controller switch would be left in the open position and the freezer would not run. Also note that there is no relay in the A19 controller. It is instead, a sealed phenolic resin-encased switch which is plunger activated. There isn't any way to disassemble and clean the contacts. Since the controller failed, leaving the freezer running, I suspect the switch contacts are either stuck or welded together. This can happen after many years of use since the contacts are subject to arcing as they close. If the controller isn't very old, check the compressor's starting relay and capacitor (if there is one). Stuck controller contacts are a commonly caused by too much current passing through them. If the start relay or capacitor are not working properly, or if there is too much voltage drop during start-up, the controller switch contacts might be overloaded. Also be sure to set the differential to 5 degF minimum or immerse the controller's probe in a jar of oil or water. If the controller tries to start the compressor within 5 minutes or so after it shuts off, the system pressures will not have had enough time to equalize and the compressor may draw excessive starting current, or may not start at all and trip the thermal overload. To minimize voltage drop problems, plug the freezer into a circuit without other large current users such as microwave ovens or toasters, etc. If an extension cord must be used, be sure it is made with large enough wire to carry *five* times the freezer's current rating as posted on its nameplate since this is about how much current the compressor normally draws as it starts. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:14:56 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Re: Old timey ( not that old) beers, Hudepohl and JD, church >Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 17:37:50 -0500 >From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay at netXpress.com> >Subject: Re: Old timey ( not that old) beers, Hudepohl and JD, church > >Greetings Oldtimers, > >One of the beer mysteries of my life is the search for the name for >a brew from the '50s. In about '52 or '53,there was a strike of some >kind (brewery or Teamsters) that cut off the beer supply to the Carolina >coast.All us beachbums could get was a sorta generic beer with trivia >q&a on the can. My tired old brain only remembers the name was Enslingers >or similar. The cans were kinda fun and the beer was OK-it was the 50's, >so any beer was good to us. Church keys,were a standard tool of the day >and I even saw a few used as weapons-Myrtle Beach could get rough late >at night. Anyone else out there who remembers the beer and the real name? >FWIW,PBR was my beer of choice in those days-had a real spicy note which I> now know was the hops-then it was BEER and thats all that counted. > >Val Lipscomb-brewing CACAs & PAs in San Antonio Val, I'm not that much of an old timer, but I know there was a beer made here in Philadelphia called Esslinger's. I never had it, but there are old signs, cans, and tap handles from it everywhere on ebay. I saw in one of the ads for an Esslinger's tap handle on ebay that the handle came from a place that used to be a speak easy during prohibition. This tells me the beer was around for a long time. I don't remember the beer, or the cans with trivia quizzes on them, I was probably too young. Maybe you can find more info on it by searching the internet, or maybe others can tell you more about it. Good Luck Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:27:35 -0700 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Re: Questions on mashing, sparging, and aeration In HBD 3363 Tom Riddle <ftr at oracom.com> asks: > 1) Add the grains to the water, or water to the grains ? Grains to water while stirring. I dump all the sparge water into the tun, then dribble the grist in while stirring. Grain balls are what you fear. Wet on the outside and dry in the middle. They are a waste of grain and may contribute to starch haze. These are more prevalent if using high grain to water ratios. I use 1.33 quarts per pound and grain balls are easy to prevent. > 2) When recirculating the first runnings, how clear is clear ? > Transparent or just free of particles ? If your temperature and pH are okay there seems to be little risk of tannin extraction considering that RIMS recirculate for the entire mash. That said, you can certainly waste a lot of time recirculating, waiting for that transparent brew. Get the chunks out and fair bit of the particulates and forget it. I recirculate between 1-2 gallons for a 5 gallon batch depending on conditions, both the brew's and my own. A good strong boil will help remove particulates with the hot break. > 3) Concerning aeration of wort before pitching. There is an inverse relationship between size of starter and the need for aeration. Bigger starters need less aeration of the main wort. I got by for years just "rockin' and rollin'" the carboy. I've also used the venturi method you mention, and currently use an aquarium pump. They all work. The more headspace you have in the carboy the better "rockin' and rollin'" works. If you're tight on headspace, an interim "rock and roll" session with the carboy 3/4 full can help. I'll be switching to direct injection of O2 as soon as I can figure out the fittings between the CFC and the O2 tank. Cheers! Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax orders demonick at zgi dot com FREE PrimeTab SAMPLES! Enough for three 5 gallon batches. Fax, phone, or email: name, shipping address (no P.O.B.) and phone number. (I won't call. It's for UPS in case of delivery problems). Sorry, lower 48 only. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 11:05:51 -0400 From: "Mark Nelson" <menelson at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Charleston, S.C. and Savannah, GA Rob Dittmar asks about Savannah and Charleston. I've heard really good things about Moon River Brewing Company in Savannah. It's run by John Pinkerton, who used to be (head?)brewer at Frederick Brewing in Maryland. I've not been there myself, but some good friends (whose beer opinions I trust) have been and had good things to say. Can't help with Charleston, sorry. Mark Nelson Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:03:28 -0500 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Temperature controller help... From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> >I had a temperature controller failure for my beer freezer Oooh, it happened to me also, gee what a stare of disbelief I gave the frosty kegs. Funny thing, I had a dopplebock and an ale, and after defrosting for a couple days, the beer seemed OK. I drank it anyhow and enjoyed it without any noticeable effect. I carefully checked for keg bulging, but lucky for me, I could find none, I think because they were only half full of beer. This allowed the expansion up rather than out. About the relay contacts, if that is what happened, the contacts stuck closed, then I must recommend that cleaning would not be the best way to fix the relay. The contacts will stick because of pitting, an uneven surface of peaks and valleys. Now here's the problem - think of these contacts as Velcro. Get the idea, they stick because of the peaks and valleys mating. You can clean the contacts (actually file them with a relay burnisher), but they will never be as reliable as before. In fact, when they were new, they were not all that good. After all, they stuck. So without slamming the manufacturer, I would say if it happened once, it could happen again. Try to find a solid state relay to replace the mechanical one. It may be possible to add to your controller. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu http://hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 12:30:10 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: carbonic/pH Del says (and yes we are playing nice offline) ... >I have seen champagne bottles in catalogs that are rated at 6 and 8 >atmospheres, 88 to 117 pounds! perhaps our friendly S. Bayanus >has been selected to ferment at these elevated pressures. 'Food Chemistry' (Belitz&Grosch) state that champagnes are ~4atm of CO2, and the most carbonated mousseux's are 4.5 to 5 atm. It takes champagne yeast (which are not even S.cerevis) "several months" to reach this carbonation levels. This is an impaired fermentation. The "Bohi process" is a commercial method of preserving wine 'must' by applying 8atm of CO2 pressure - this stops all yeast *fermentation*. >Also >at 35-45 psi yeast stops? how come we can get bottle bombs? The paper states that "At about 2.5 to 3 atm carbon dioxide is reported to prevent cell division completely". They also state "In contrast, alcohol production is still unaffected at 4 atm". Growth is stopped, not fermentation. I believe this is a measure of CO2 head pressure above ambient. The higher CO2 levels interfere with an enzyme involved in AcetylCoA and fatty acid production. Also it inhibits the uptake of certain amino acids. MAy affect carbohydrate uptake. >That is why (theoretically) we get a supersaturated solution when >there are no nucleation sites right? Basically yes, but you'll get supersaturation anytime CO2 level is out of equilibrium due to fermentation. The amount depends on a lot of factors (fermentor depth, temp, agitation, circulation) but figures from 1.2 to 2.0 volumes of CO2 in vented fermenter is normal during active fermentation. >>There is even speculation in the lit that the primary effect of yeast nutrients is that they act as nucleation sites and reduce CO2 concentrations !!<< >Heard this before and the question that comes to mind is, >"why don't the yeasts themselves act as nucleation sites?" Their slimy little shells have no sharp edges; they may make poor nucleation sites. I have a lot of unanswered questions about this too. >A few yeast nutrients do contain yeast hulls, but these aren't >much larger than the source yeasts. I have no answer except to speculate about live cell surface characteristics. I don't think area is the factor. It is also possible that some other factor (not CO2) related to particulates stimulates yeast. To give a more clear example re particulates JIB v60#5,pp1519, Canadian researchers ferment a 35-36P(!!) glucose+nutrient solution using a commercial lager yeast (NCYC1324). In the control fermentation the final dissolved solids is a whopping 20.2P. Adding alumina powder caused the final solids on a separate run to drop to 6.8 (~13%ABV) Also the yeast mass was somewhat higher, and the yeast viability was dramatically higher !! I wouldn't jump to final conclusions about why - but particulates clearly have an impact, and CO2 is the suspect. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:38:32 -0700 From: "John Palmer" <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Re: Jim's Buckwheat Malt Jim wonders about his low extraction from a buckwheat mash 1.022 OG. He states that he stopped the malting after 2.5 days when the roots (or maybe acrospires?) (sic) were 3/4 of an inch long. Well, based on what I have read in Malting and Brewing Science and Malts and Malting by Briggs, barley is considered to be fully modified when the acrospire is 75-100% of the length of the seed. No mention is made of rootlet length. Two points: 1. That the alpha amylase is created de novo in the aleurone layer during malting. And of course they are denatured by heat. I don't have my references with me to know if your drying schedule was perhaps excessive, but that is a possibility for poor yield. 2. That a maltsters key job is to judge when the malt is modified enough without the developing plant using up all of the endosperm. Big tradeoff there. So, perhaps the malt became "over-modified" and the plant ate up all of your starches. I have a feeling that this is the reason. Maybe not overmodified per se, but that buckwheat is not a traditional malting material and has not been cultivated for high yield. Hmmm, I explain it better in my book. See http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12.html Hope this helps, John Palmer jjpalmer at realbeer.com Palmer House Brewery and Smithy www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/ How To Brew - the book www.howtobrew.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:59:16 -0700 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Aerated starters Speaking of aerated starters, I've done this a few times and thought I'd pass along my experience. As a disclaimer, I am a yeast abuser. Not a recovering yeast abuser, but an active yeast abuser. I do not step-up my starters, but directly innoculate 1500 ml of media in one fell swoop. I refrigerate my starters, let them flocculate, and decant the supernatant pitching only the sludge. Yeast are hearty buggers. I am quite strict and careful in my sanitation using lots of iodophor and soaking everything including my hands. I work for a biotech company where we (they, not I) do lots of cell culture work including yeast. Nearly all of it is done aerobically, and I wanted to try it at home, but did not want to invest in cell culture flasks, so I came up with a home alternative. A cell culture flask is a squat erlenmeyer flask with a relatively narrow throat. The flasks come with a stainless steel sleeve (basically a cup) that has raised radial spokes pressed into the bottom and lengthwise down the sides. This sleeve is inverted over the mouth of the flask and acts as a "nasty" barrier. The raised spokes keep the bottom and sides of the sleeve a few millimeters away from the mouth and sides of the flask, creating a torturous route for any "nasties". O2 can diffuse into the flask by traveling up, and CO2 can diffuse out by traveling down. After innoculation the media is agitated in the flask, either shaken or stirred, however you like your martinis. Standard erlenmeyer flasks are relatively easy to come by and even the larger ones, are fairly inexpensive. I use a 2 L flask. The most expensive part of the equipment is a magnetic stirrer, but it is not strictly necessary. If you start your starter on a weekend, you can agitate it every waking hour or so simply by gently swirling the flask. You could put it on the dryer or washing machine while it is running. A 250 ml beaker fits nearly perfectly over the mouth of a 2 L e-flask. It's about the right length too. Cut 3 pieces of 3/8" vinyl tubing about 1/2" long. Slit each piece lengthwise. These pieces can now be "clipped" over the edge of the mouth of the e-flask to keep the beaker from sealing the mouth of the e-flask. Invert the beaker over the mouth of the flask. You now have an aerobic cell culture flask. For what it's worth here's my process to produce a 1.040-1.045 starter. 200 grams light dry malt extract, 11 grams ammonium sulphate, dissolved in 1700 ml of water and vigorously boiled for 30-45 minutes. Allow to cool while covered. Beaker, flask with tubing bits on mouth, and squares of foil are soaked in iodophor while the media is boiling. When cool enough not to risk breaking the flask 1500 ml of media is transferred to the flask and the flask sealed with foil. I don't rinse the iodophor off the flask. I just hold it upside down for about a minute and let it drip. Yeast are hearty buggers. Cool the sealed flask in a sink of cold water. Maintain sanitary conditions when pitching to the media then cover with the beaker. I stir on a medium speed for a few days. The reason I suggest only filling the flask to the 1500 ml level is for foam retention. You can get a very active fermentation going. If you are constantly stirring the foam will be knocked down to an extent, but if you are going to leave the flask unagitated for hours, say you were going to go to sleep, then you need the headspace. I suggest putting the flask on a tray until you are familiar with the procedure. Foam overs are no big deal, as the foam just oozes out from under the beaker. If it happens, remove the beaker, cap the flask with a foil square, rinse the beaker in hot water, and clean the neck of the flask with hot water and a fresh paper towel. Remove foil and replace the beaker. After a few days, I turn off the stirrer and wait 12-24 hours to see if the fermentation is complete. If so, seal the mouth of the flask with foil and stick it in the refrigerator for a few days until I'm ready to use it. On brew day, the yeast cake is well compacted and decanting the spent media is easy. Divert a bit of fresh wort into the flask, resuspend the yeast, and pitch it. Cheers! Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax orders demonick at zgi dot com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 12:52:14 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oh Well SCIENTIST COMING UP DRY ON HANGOVER CURE from The Dallas Morning News [...] Earlier this month, in the journal Annals of Internal Medicine, Wiese and his colleagues from the University of California, San Francisco, described the results of 108 studies on hangovers conducted since 1965. The conclusions: Hangovers are not well understood and not treatable. Only one study, which suggested that vitamins taken before drinking might thwart hangover symptoms, offers hope of escape. Hangovers cost the economy billions of dollars annually from missed work time. Too many of them and a person may risk cardiovascular damage. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/news/health-science/html98/hang27m_20000627 .html -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:44:18 -0400 From: Bret Morrow <bret.morrow at yale.edu> Subject: Re: Where in Oz.... Greetings, Phil wrote (& I don't think Jill even knew about it..) >Bill, for my part, I live in Burradoo. I do believe I have made that painfully clear to everybody. >Are you telling me there are people in the world who don't know the whereabouts of Burradoo? >Are you suggesting I am Baron of an unknown province? I think I know where that is...It a bit north of Vienna--close to the Germany border! God, I love Austria! ____________________________________________ Bret A. Morrow Hamden, CT (named after Lord Hampden by a very poor speller), USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 14:50:53 -0400 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Framboise/Greece Joel, Framboise is a normal lambic for the first year of its life. It is then blended with other lambics to get the right blend of funky belgian flavors, brettomyceses and acidic balance. Then for the second year of its life it is racked onto 1 or 2 lbs of berries per gallon and left to sit for a year. It is then bottled and sugar primed with new yeast. Estimated production time: 26 months. Your friend has really good taste. :<) yes, you could cheat and cut down the time, and use syrups...but then you couldn't call it a lambic, could you? American fruit wheat with a bad infection maybe, but not a lambic :<) (Sorry, just feeling a little spoiled after drinking that case of Hansen's at the AHA National Convention....Eat your heart out Jim Liddel!!!) Professor John , Subject: Beer in Greece Keep a sharp lookout for beer in Greece, if you see any--RUN!!!! All of the greek beer I have had was terrible. I once opened a bottle of hand carried Troy Pilsner at Bill Pfieffers house. Bill was sitting at the other end of the 8Ft banquet table from me. I opened it with a huge Pfhsst!! This beer was so overcarbonated and so Skunky, that Bill asked me to remove it from the house before I even had a chance to pour it! Oh, it was discusting. Spencer will back me up on this... Stick to drinking the wine, its much better. If you want a good beer on this trip fly home through Brussles. Phil Wilcox Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 17:50:28 -0400 From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Questions In HBD #3363 Tom Riddle has questions about changes in homebrewing. 1) Add the grains to the water, or water to the grains? Or does it matter? I seem to vaguely remember something about balls of malt dust forming in one scenario, but not the other?? I usually put the water into the mash/lauder tun first so I can stabilize the temp before adding the gains. I have read that in order to avoid "dry balls" forming in the mash that you should "Dough In". This means to sprinkle the brewing liquor onto the grains and mix until all the mash is wet before adding the rest of the liquor for you mash. I may try it next time to see if it increases my extract efficiency. 2) When recirculating the first runnings, how clear is clear? Transparent or just free of particles? Miller says to recirculate for upto 15mins ?!?!Again I seem to vaguely recall something about leaching tannins from the grain husk if you recirculate/sparge too much ?? What are the consequences of not recirculating enough ? I think that transparent is a bit of a stretch, IMHO. I'd shoot for no particles (some one will probably disagree). Your grain bed should form in less that 15 min - if not, stir it up, let it settle, and try again. I wouldn't worry about recirc too long, I've seen someone recirc constantly to prevent scorching while direct firing the mash tun. As far as tannins, you may have a problem by sparging too long or too hot (over 170F). 3) Concerning aeration of wort before pitching. This is one topic that seems to have gotten very popular over the past few years. Is an aquarium or hand pump really necessary or will a simple venturi device (copper tubing with a few small holes drilled into it) at the end of the racking tube suffice? As with most topics in brewing, you will get as many different opinion as there are brewers. Some people actually bubble pure O2 though the cooled wort. Personally, I just shake the hell out of the carboy to aerate the wort. Your venturi tube should work just fine, IMHO. In fact, I have considered moving to a similar device, maybe this will light a fire under me. Good luck and welcome back. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:15:00 -0400 From: Paul Mahoney <pmmaho at roanoke.infi.net> Subject: pop-tops Brewers: All this nostalgia for church keys is is wonderful. It brings back lots of (good) memories. However, I have not read any posts discussing the dangers of the (then) new pop-tops. I have read comments about the environmental/ecological damage from these new inventions, but my recollections from that long-ago time is the sliced thumbs! When I was in high school, it was a badge of honor! You sliced your thumbs on the sharp edges, often sterilizing the wound with whatever you were drinking. Blood was often on your shirt-fronts. Parents of course would ask, 'Dear, how did you slice your thumb?' (As if they did not know!) I grew up in D.C., and the beverage of choice then was Colt-45 Malt Liquor in the 8 oz. cans. Truly foul stuff, but when one is a teenager in search of beer-thrills, you would drink anything. And Colt-45s were "cool"! Isn't progress great?! Paul Mahoney Roanoke, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:32:17 -0400 From: "Eric Ahrendt" <sid at nwohio.com> Subject: More Ohio beer law trivia Just when you think you've got Ohio's liquor laws straight - Did you know it's legal to purchase beer here starting at 5:30 AM on a Sunday? I mean, why? Eric Ahrendt Brewing in Clyde (a.k.a. Winesburg), Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:36:15 EDT From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com> Subject: bulging extract can Greetings all, Received a couple cans of Mountmellick stout extract which "expire" in Sept. of 2001. They are bulging a little. Should I: a) toss 'em or b) Use w/ caution? Contents will be boiled for an hour.... Is there a chance the contents are ok, and if so how would one know? TIA (private response ok) Don't take life too seriously...you won't get out alive. Al albeers at hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
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