HOMEBREW Digest #3418 Fri 01 September 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  kettle fitting (Bjoern.THEGEBY)
  Sterile water yeast storage ("Graham Sanders")
  re: brewing books ("Alan McKay")
  Tips on visiting Koeln / Cologne (Part 3) ("Alan McKay")
  dual-purpose fridge (fridgeguy)
  Who really cares?, hops & compost, yeast storage ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  Hops & Dogs (AJ)
  Spent Grain Bread ("Bob Mori")
  welding (Marc Sedam)
  cheap keg parts (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Flaked vs. Whole Rice (Jeff Renner)
  High F.G. Blues ("Schultz, Steven W SBCCOM")
  Tips on visiting Koeln / Cologne (Part 4) ("Alan McKay")
  re:dual purpose fridge. Brewer's clothing requirements. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Re: st. pat's ("patrick finerty jr.")
  On Soapbox (LaBorde, Ronald)
  re: wort aeration / NCl3 (Lou.Heavner)
  darrell and too much volume, charlie p, munich and alt, CAP artic ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Counter-Flow Cooling Efficiency ("Peter Zien")
  Kyle Druey? ("Eric Fouch")
  feel the love (Jim Liddil)
  Specs & IBU's / surplus PID controllers ("Louis K. Bonham")
  "Electric Stove" or "A Watched Pot Never Boils" (Matthew Comstock)
  My .02$ (Chris Cooper)
  Lautering: Wort Does Not Flow Uphill (John Palmer)
  woodruff syrup is now available at a reasonable price! ("Donald D. Lake")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:52:35 +0200 From: Bjoern.THEGEBY at cec.eu.int Subject: kettle fitting I am building a converted keg kettle and wonder about the HBD opinion on the internal fitting. My preference would be a bent copper tube ending in a SS Choreboy. I mainly use hop plugs and brew English low to medium gravity beers. Should I worry about clogging and, if the design is OK, should I aim at the centre of the bottom or at an off-centre position to avoid the break? Bjorn Thegeby Rennerian, Schmennerian, five miles from Lembeek Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:21:57 +1000 From: "Graham Sanders" <craftbrewer at cisnet.COM.AU> Subject: Sterile water yeast storage G'day All One of the reasons I like this method of storage is the certainity of knowing you have a healthy yeast culture to pitch well in advance. I am doing a Heffe-weissen this weekend with a twist. Try 38 litre batch 3,7 kg Pilsner malt and 2.7 kg of Plain white flour. (oh I can hear the heathen cries now. - it can be done . Come to think of it a lot of young SWMBO said that to me as well in my younger days). Anyway pulled out my 18 month old culture Sunday, and know Tuesday knight I have just doubled up my starter to 600ml. Going like me in my younger days. This post I want to show how easy the system is to use. Know lets assume you want to brew a beer (a bit silly - buts thats me all over) There you have your yeast in testtubes or vials in the fridge. Now you decide yes I must brew a Heff next. Now this takes a little planning but nothing serious. So about 7 days before hand you go to the fridge and get the right test tube of yeast culture. Using good sterile techniques (will explain in the other posts), you lift a tiny-winy bit of liquid from the test tube. (resealing it properly immediately). You then quickly streak (no.- not doing this naked although it wouldn't hurt) a petre-dish (agar plate). In two days times you'll see lots of little colonies all growing happily. (oh the test tubes back in the fridge) When they get to a good size , you lift two good match heads full and put them into a 300ml starter. Give it lots of airation (I put it in a plastic softdrink bottle and every six hours, or when i passing, I squeeze out the air in the bottle a couple of time and let fresh air in and give it a good shake.) Within 24 hours you shoud have activity, As soon as it shows this double up the starter. and double up as often as you like. so for me its Saturday- streak plate Monday- check plate, restreak if necessary or if really going seed a 300ml starter next day- transfer to 300ml starter if not done already next day - 600ml starter and to the size you need. When to the right size cool down in a fridge for the brew session. Now what happens every two years. Well its time to check and reculture the buggers. So Its off to the Vet (still cant convince him to put down SWMBO, and he hides the "green dream" so I can't walk out with it) but I do pick up a good all purpose antibiotic tablet. I make up Agar Plates with it and culture all the stock. You look for nice clean uniform colonies and if they are ok you lift the COLONIES ONLY and transfer them to sterile water. I like to transfer about 15 colonies to reduce the risk of mutation. I look for nice uniform 'Average size colonies, you know not too big, not too small, just right (a certain breakfast cerial company has a lot to answer for) There you have it for the next two years. Now in the early days i keep the old colonies in case I got a bad batch with my 'new mother colonies'. But this hasn't happened yet so i dont bother anymore. Now that sounds simple (i hope). So what do we need to be able to do this. Here's the list of equipment you will need. 1. An Autoclav. Oh dear the local hospital hasn't had a garage sale yet. No worries get a good sized pressure cooker. Does the same job. (or near enough for this anyway) 2. Petre-dishes - about 6 3. Vials, test tubes or other container that can get sealed. Note : 2 and 3 must be able to be autoclaved or steamed, so plastic is out of the question. 4. A bit of stainless steel wire that is used for tranferring yeast . Put a loop at the end 5. Any sort of burner 6. Some Agar 7. Some DME 8. Bleach or any good disaffectant 9. Although not necessary a test tube rack is handy as well. Saves looking thru a jar of test tubes looking for the right one. Not too bad is it. Next I'll go thru how to prepare your test tubes and petre dishes Shout Graham Sanders Oh the cats lovers are after me. But I making some peace offerings for all those poor people who got upset. One cat pelt makes a handy wallet or purse. I can even put a little sound box in in that mewows when you open it. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:55:12 -0400 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: re: brewing books Stephen Ross of Paddock Wood says : > A more general book with more brewing information is _The Complete > Handbook of Brewing_ by Miller. Fairly good starting point. Miller's > style is dryer than Papazian's. Agreed, except that you may want to go for Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide, which is a newer edition of the above mentioned book. (1996, IIRC) Most of the books being talked about so far are reviewed in the "Reviews" section of my homepage. Go to http://www.bodensatz.com/, then "Homebrew" then "Reviews". cheers, -Alan - -- "It must be light, because our Brewmaster says that the colour is a sign of Quality: The lighter a K[CENSORED]lsch, the better it tastes. It must be light, because a lighter beer runs better over the tongue. And it must be tastey, such that all henceforth will say : 'Fr[CENSORED]h tastes really yummy' " - PJ Fr[CENSORED]h (http://www.frueh.de/) http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:59:54 -0400 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Tips on visiting Koeln / Cologne (Part 3) ======= KUECHE / CULINARY ======= Try the Reibkuchen(*) right in front of the Haupbahnhof at the foot of the Dom. If you like the German potato pancakes made with grated potato, this is reportedly the best place in the city to get them, and they are only "take-out" in your hand. It's just a little stand perhaps 2 to 2.5 meters in diameter (7 to 9 feet). We compared them to those in a couple of well-known Brauhaeser(**) and though all were very good, consensus was that these were the best. We ate in at least 7 or 8 of the Brauhaeuser, and drank in a good 4 or 5 more than that, and all had great beer (of course) and very good to extremely excellent food in all cases, too. And in most cases very reasonably priced, too. Especially with current exchange rates to the Euro! Stay tuned for more detailed reports on some more of the Brauhaeuser ... cheers, -Alan (*) "RIBE-kookin" - "ribe" as in "vibe" and "kook" rhymes with a derogatory word for an oriental person. Sorry, but went through the whole alphabet and couldn't come up with a better rhyme in English. (**) the plural of "Brauhaus" is "Brauhaeuser", but the HBD forbids me to spell it properly where the "aeu" is actually "ae" where the "a" has an Umlaut. In Cologne a "Brauhaus" does not necessarily brew beer, but rather can be positively traced to having a brewing history. In Cologne there are over 200 buildings which can positively trace such a history. One I ate in had a brewing history of over 700 years, but it was only the 2nd oldest. Didn't get a chance to make the oldest, as there is simply so many and two weeks wasn't enough. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:01:29 -0400 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: dual-purpose fridge Greetings folks, In HBD #3415, Steve asks about using a side-by-side fridge for two purposes, with the freezer side used for lagering and fridge side for serving. Domestic fridge/freezers use a single compressor, with the evaporator in or near the freezer compartment. The temperature controller for the freezer section starts and stops the compressor to maintain freezer setpoint temperature. The fridge compartment control is actually linked to an air shutter and/or fan to control how much of the cold freezer air reaches the fridge compartment. The two controls will interact, so set the freezer first, then the fridge. Repeat until both sections hold the desired temp. Controller temperature ranges differ from model to model, but expect to replace the controller if you wish to run the freezer section at lagering temperature. Frost-free fridges (including side-by-sides) periodically stop the compressor and energize heaters to melt any ice accumulation on the evaporator. This may happen from 4-8 times per day, depending on the particular model. Each defrost cycle usually lasts from 20 minutes to an hour. Frost-free fridges will lose their ability to control humidity if the freezer section is controlled at above-freezing temperatures. The defrost timer should be bypassed to eliminate the defrost cycle, since it serves no purpose at above-freezing temperatures. A dessicant such as Damp-Rid or similar might help keep the cabinet dry. A cold plate or stainless coil might be an attractive alternative to the above. If the freezer section is kept at normal temp (10 degF or so) and the fridge side at lagering temp, the fridge will stay dry. A cold plate placed in the fridge side would allow cold beer to be served, with the keg and CO2 outside the fridge. An added benefit is more space in the fridge! If the freezer space isn't needed, simply use a small dorm or apartment sized fridge, set at lagering temp. Cold plates aren't cheap, but used ones are sometimes available. A new single-circuit plate will likely cost about $100. Stainless coils are a little cheaper. YMMV Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2000 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:22:47 -0400 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: Who really cares?, hops & compost, yeast storage Some complain that Lynn uses the Digest as advertisement, maybe, maybe not. Maybe it's allowed to slip through because from time to time Lynn does post some interesting info; the results of independent analysis of yeast cell counts, and the report of brewing methods from the Czech republic. This is then set aside when we see... > p.s. Coincidentally, I got 4 pallets of the 6.3 oz clear glass, very > heavy-duty > barleywine bottles (not green champagne bottles) this morning. Excuse me, but I thought beer should be in brown bottles to prevent skunking. At least green bottles afford a small bit of protection. On mis-shipped items; if you receive the improper product, just stop payment on your credit card. When the charge-back comes I bet you get a speedy resolution to the problem. Then if the product is valuable enough a UPS call-tag can be issued so the return wouldn't cost you a cent . Simple enough and usually a toll free call. .................................... On placing spent hops on the compost heap; I've done this and found that the hops stop the compost action temporarily, or perhaps it is the lactic acid that comes from the grain that is the culprit, maybe that's what is burning out the lawn also. I still put the grains and kettle spooge on the compost, where else to dump them? but each time I notice a slowing of the digestive action. Not a big deal since I have more compost than I can use anyway. .................................... On yeast storage in sterile water. The method I've read about involves storing only a tiny bit of yeast, a pico liter in 10 ml water. Bill Pierce mentions: >>During this time the overall viability of the yeast remains quite high, until a point when the yeast commit "mass suicide" and all die within a matter of days.<< This sudden autolysis could come from the higher concentration of yeast cells. I read somewhere, maybe here, that the rate of autolysis is proportional to the concentration of cells. I think it was Jim Liddil made some reports on the water storage method, maybe he will notice this and make a comment. N.P. (Del) Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:44:00 -0400 From: AJ <email at domain.com> Subject: Hops & Dogs J. Marvin Campbell's post reminded me that some of herbals sold at pet stores for dogs contain hops as one of the ingredients. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 06:48:23 -0700 From: "Bob Mori" <bob.mori at poboxes.com> Subject: Spent Grain Bread Rick Foote wrote that he used some of his spent grain to make spent grain bread. Where can I find a recipe for spent grain bread. Bob Mori bob.mori at poboxes.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:01:34 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: welding This comes up now and again on the forum, but I just saw a product in Home Depot called "Weld All" or something like that. It claims to be able to bond metals together and withstand heat up to 600F. Now, I'm sure TIG welding is the best option to put a drainplug in my kettle, but I'm not a welder and shipping to John Palmer is too expensive. LOL. Has anyone used this product? Success? Failure? What about use with different metals (stainless to brass). -Marc, the wild mash hopper Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:15:01 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: cheap keg parts Marvin talks about wanting to pay more for keg parts if they were made better. The answer is to search the web for what you want, and not buy stuff from a homebrew supplier who's looking (correctly) for the cheapest stuff. As with most/all commodity products, you outsource production to a location where the cost of labor is cheapest. Buy American? Why should America produce parts that can only reasonably be sold with extraordinarily low margins? Low margins=low profits. Combined with the high cost of labor in the US, it means that companies can't make *any* money producing this stuff here. By outsourcing you get profits to US companies which keeps them in business as well as increasing the standard of living in the exporting country. In general (and please don't beat me over the head with specifics--I know they exist, but I'm looking at this on a large scale)--the US produces what we do best (innovative products) and Korea does what it does best (produce "stuff" via large, relatively cheap labor force). Nobody's back is being broken, and the quality of the product has nothing to do with where it's produced, rather it has everything to do with what quality the COMPANY wants to sell. This country is too expensive to produce anything other then high-end, high-margin products. And we should be grateful for it. It means more money and higher wages for all. Oh yes. We love mash hopping. And so do many of you, from the private emails I've received. Join the revolution. Beer is good. Come to the beer. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:01:23 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Flaked vs. Whole Rice In Homebrew Digest #3411 (August 24, 2000), "O'mahoney, Larry (LLOM)" <LLOM at chevron.com> asked > >Anyone know the equivalence between flaked rice and whole rice in a recipe? Still catching up, so someone may have already answered this. There's no reason to think that they should be anything but equivalent. Apparently you had no trouble getting the cooked rice stirred in to the mash, but if you had coarsely ground the rice and added added a couple of ounces of crushed malt to it, then rested it 20 minutes at ~153F before boiling it, you would have performed a traditional cereal mash. This results in a nicely liquid cooked cereal that mixes nicely with the main mash. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:39:50 -0400 From: "Schultz, Steven W SBCCOM" <steven.schultz at SBCCOM.APGEA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: High F.G. Blues Made a partial-mash barely wine, about 1.95 OG, using 1056 yeast from a starter, and an expected FG of 1.025-ish. When fermentation slowed down, I racked to a secondary and dropped a hydrometer into the carboy so I could see my gravity whenever I wished. The fermentation seems to have stopped at 1.040, so last night I dropped in a packet of dry champagne yeast, and this morning a packet of Nottingham dry yeast. But as the wort is beginning to clear, and the air lock not moving, I think that the fermentation is finished, and FG is going to be approx. 1.040. I had a high mash temp and used a cara-pils, but even that should not cause the FG to be this high, should it? Any ideas? TIA. Steve Schultz Abingdon, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:31:20 -0400 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Tips on visiting Koeln / Cologne (Part 4) ======== BREWING ======== If you can speak decent German, you can almost definitely scam yourself a day of brewing at one of the smaller Koelsch places, or at one of the many Boennsch places around the city. The Weiss Braeu and Hellers at Barbarossaplatz and even Malzmuhle on the Heumarkt (on the other side of the U-Bahn platform from the main Heumarkt) and Paeffgen on Friesenplatz (they don't brew at Paeffgen am Heumarkt, but the building does have a very long brewing history) are small enough to be very casual about this type of thing if you catch them on the right day. So you can finally say that you've actually brewed a real Koelsch. Once I get my notes better organised and start writing and compiling, I'll also be releasing some secret tips from the various breweries which allowed me to do this as long as they themselves remained anonymous. Because of this as well I'm not even allowed to say how many breweries I have visited until I have the participation of a certain percentage of breweries Please stay tuned ... news may actually show up on my website before it does here. http://www.bodensatz.com/ cheers, -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:36:57 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: re:dual purpose fridge. Brewer's clothing requirements. Steve asks about making a refrigerator that has two different temperature domains. Easiest way I know to do that is simply "mask off" some shelf area in the middle. The chilling unit and the thermostat are in the top of every one I've ever looked in. If you cover a shelf half way down with aluminum foil, cardboard, Time magazine, or whatever you've got at hand, you'll "hide" the bottom part from both the thermostat and the cooling element. You can get quite a temperature differential this way.... just keep filling up more shelving area until you get the one you want. Once you're comfortable with what you've got, then perhaps a more permanent installation is in order..... that doesn't mean I'm suggesting that you then actually READ the Time magazines. Dr. Pivo PS Pat wrote: > At least update the 1970's folk pics. Are those plaid pants in the > brewery? Aren't they a requirement? Mine are bell bottoms, and I thought I had to wear them. Not having to change into those should shorten my brew day. Does this mean I can skip the platform shoes and the big wide paisley tie as well? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:52:07 -0400 (EDT) From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: st. pat's i just can't take this sort of illogical blather. hit 'D' now if you're as bored as me. On August 25, 2000, Mea & Marvin wrote: > (On Soapbox) [...] > The valve hardware was made in Korea. [...] > Nothing against Korea, but when I'm looking to buy > quality machined metal of any kind, Korea just does > not come to mind. However, the next time I want [...] > quality item that was not assembled by some poor > eleven-year-old slob making $20/week. [...] > Call me madcap, call me what you will. I still sincerely i think i'll just call you ignorant, racist and incapable of forming a cogent argument, how's that? 1) South Korea is known internationally for it's large industrial production centers. These include electronics, automobile production, and shipbuilding. don't believe me? here's my fav source of international info: http://www.odci.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/ks.html 2) how can you say you have nothing against Korea when you refer to a child laborer as a 'slob'. right. 3) in many industries, in many countries, manufactures produce various grades of hardware. the fact that this particular valve is from Korea is irrelevant. i could go on but i'm losing my will to live just proof reading this crap. -patrick in Toronto - -- "There is only one aim in life and that is to live it." Karl Shapiro,(1959) from an essay on Henry Miller's Tropic of Cancer finger pfinerty at nyx10.nyx.net for PGP key http://www.finerty.net/pjf Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:58:10 -0500 From: rlabor at lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: On Soapbox From: Mea & Marvin <mcmc at loop.com> >...I'm not the only one) >would be more than willing to pay more for a higher >quality item that was not assembled by some poor >eleven-year-old slob making $20/week.... > >...Call me madcap, call me what you will. I still sincerely >believe that buying Made-in-America is better for every- >one involved, and I believe most people will agree when >they realize that those low, low prices were artificially >achieved by breaking the backs of less fortunate people in third-world nations. >Now I'm no liberal, and God knows I >love laissez-faire capitalism, but making money off the >misery of others just ain't right.... >(Off Soapbox)... True, abusing the helpless children is not good, but do not be too quick to jump all over another country's culture and economy. I hear it all the time by the bleeding heart liberals. Take a stroll through the walkway of history. Your country's history. In the past century, children were produced in large families and were put to work picking cotton in the summer at harvest time. My father was one, and he never felt abused. Why do you think schools have the summer off, still today in many places? So the teachers can cool their heels. Well, yes today, but it was originally started so the kids could pick cotton. Sure, they could have been having more fun. How about today, hmm, let's see, browsing porn at the local library, maybe puffing on a few packs of cigarettes, or maybe making some more kids in their spare time. Hmm, a little lathe work doesn't sound so bad after all. I mean, it wasn't all abuse, and it wasn't any different in the good ole USA, so lighten up on a country that may be trying and just going through some growing pains. Ron La Borde Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu http://hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:01:33 -0500 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: re: wort aeration / NCl3 Arnaud VIEZ <aviez at teaser.fr> writes: But how do you aerate? I read about pouring the cool wort in the fermenter, shaking well the fermenter, etc... What is the best -and safer- method? There are probably many ways to aerate with minimal risk of contaminating the wort. 1) use pure oxygen, nothing lives in pure oxygen. 2) use an airpump (like for an aquarium) but put some kind of filter between the pump and the wort. Probably just some sterile cotton would be fine, but you can always go the extra mile and put a sterile filter inline. 3) open ferment, but cover the fermenter with something clean and dust free like foil or plastic wrap to keep airborne critters from dropping into the wort. The headspace gas will mix with ambient air, but particulates are unlikely to migrate with the gas since diffusion, not convection is the mechanism. 3a) same as above, but shake 3b) same but add a magnetic stirbar and place on a magnetic stirplate. This may be difficult due to the weight of the fermenter without some extra structural support and due to the desire to keep the fermenter cool. 3b) gotta a pump? fermenter gotta a valve? Recirculate. 4) do what I usually do and pour back and forth (also called dropping). You can get good exposure to air, but also get some exposure to particulates in the air. Try to do this in a clean and still room if possible. Not the kitchen full of dirty dishes or the kids' playroom while SHMBO is vaccuming. I do this and take the extra step of spraying an aerosol disinfectant in the room 30 min before. Sometimes I'll drop with a siphon, instead of just pouring between buckets if there is a lot of sediment settled out that I would like to leave behind. and an anecdote on the stability of NCl3 per Matt's posts on chlorine and chloramine. I worked in a plant making swimming pool chemicals once where NCL3 liquid could potentially be produced. This was to be avoided since it is explosive. Any stream that could possibly have NCl3 went to an open waste water ditch. Liquid NCl3 is heavier than water and apparently some formed/collected in the ditch. There was a galvanized grate, approximately 5 x 1 meters which covered the ditch and was sent flying atop a 2-story roof. Two people had been standing on the grate 5 minutes earlier. I always figured that was why you are not supposed to mix chlorine bleach with ammonia. Cheers! Lou Heavner - Austin, TX - seeing is believing Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 12:04:11 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: darrell and too much volume, charlie p, munich and alt, CAP artic Darrell asks about too much lost volume in his mash/lauter. I found 1/2" diameter ceramic balls at the fancy cooking store used for holding pie crusts down or something. They sell them buy the bag or so for $6-8. They can be boiled - but are kinda expensive. They are heavy though and don't float. I only use them to weigh down dry hop bags in my kegs. The foodgrade spheres that someone mentioned sound better probably. I have to admit that I no longer believe everything that Charlie wrote. It may have been the best info at the time, but things have advanced to a point, as I have, that TNCJOHB is a bit incorrect in spots. However, it was the first thing that I bought even before my first beer kit. In fact, I had tasted one homebrew before buying this book and getting hooked and it enabled me to get started and brew a reasonable beer and stay interested enough to find out what does and what doesnt work and where things can be tweaked. For that start, and the info presented at the time (1995) I thank Charlie. It is still in my bookshelf, as is the following volume that he wrote as are a few other texts and my HBD notebook and my own recipebooks. I guess I do refer back to it to look up an old recipe or to see how my brews have progressed over the years and many batches. Just wanted to tell everyone that I got my alt brewed. interesting thing with the yeast. first the brew is 100% light munich from weyermanns. mash temp pretty high at about 158-156F for 90 minutes. OG=1.058. hopped to mid 50s with only hallertauer at 60 minute addition. total wort boil time was 90 minutes. yeast was 1338 scaled up twice from the package. after 12 hrs the brew had 1/2" foam at the surface. ferment temp was mid-60s. after 2 days the fermentation had slowed considerably (very very infrequent airlock bubbles) and much yeast dropped out. gravity was 1.020. I'm gonna check this in another few days to see where it ends up. hopefully a bit lower as some yeast is most likely in solution still. has anyone else seen particularly fast ferments with 1338 European ale yeast at pretty normal ale temps? Or did it drop prematurely from cold or something else? Also, thanks Jeff R. for the Zymurgy CAP article. great stuff. hopefully I'll lager again this winter. Thanks, Pete Czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:11:04 -0700 From: "Peter Zien" <PZ.JDZINC at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Counter-Flow Cooling Efficiency My counter-flow wort chiller has a 1/2" inner diameter wort inflow/outflow and usually cools 5 gallons of wort in 10 minutes to within 4 degrees F of the source water. With the summer source water temperature in the mid-80F's, I employ an immersion chiller in an ice- bucket to pre-cool the source water prior to its flowing through the counter-flow chiller. The source water is run at high through the system, and the wort out-flow is restricted some by clamp to increase the time the wort spends within the cooling coils. Although the temperature of the source water is in the mid-50F's, the wort is only cooled to 76F. Why is my wort cooling efficiency so poor when employing an ice-bucket and immersion chiller to pre-cool the source water? Thanks in advance for your help. Peter Zien Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 13:22:15 EDT From: "Eric Fouch" <airrick147 at hotmail.com> Subject: Kyle Druey? "I personally am sick and tired of her blatant advertising on the HBD and would rather read Kyle Druey's dribble about Eric Fouch instead of having her advertise on this forum blatantly!" Kyle Druey? Who is Kyle Druey? He's sounds pretty cool. What has he been saying about me? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:49:59 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: feel the love To they guy that has a porblem with korean stuff. Go to a welding shop or compressed gas supply house and buy a "real" two stage medium or heavy duty regulator. Not the crappy weenie regulators that most all shops sell. You usually can get all the hardware as well. And when you start talking about beer to a welder who knows what you may find out. Face it the hbd and the internet have way more to offer than charlie. and Ray Danials stated that material had to be delated from the "special" issue. Why didn't you get rid of prof surfeit and replace it with more useful info? And since we are advertizing I'm looking for employment in the biotech/pharma industry in CT. :-) Jim Liddil North Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 13:12:13 -0500 From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham at hypercon.com> Subject: Specs & IBU's / surplus PID controllers Hi folks: Dr. Pivo notes that those of you who might be interested in surplus specs need to make sure that the spec will handle the UV range. This is absolutely correct. Most "visible range" specs simply won't get down to the needed 275nm range -- typically, you will need to get a "UV-Vis" spec that has a deuterium light bulb for the UV wavelengths. If you get a UV-Vis spec in the surplus channels, make sure that the deuterium lamp works -- a replacement bulb is often $250 or more. In the same vein, for the IBU assay it is imperative that you use quartz cuvettes -- plain glass and all of the cheap disposible cuvettes absorb too much at 275nm and thus skew the readings. Quartz cuvettes are not cheap (list price is usually >$75 each), but if you shop around you can often find good ones from Russia or Lithuania for much less. (Check LabX.) - ------------------------------- IBU assays -- Brad Miller's description of the ASBC IBU assay makes it sound like you should add 250ul of octyl alcohol to the beer-HCl-isooctane mix. This is incorrect. The procedure calls for a minute amount of octyl alcohol to be introduced into the tip of the volumetric pipette used to measure 10ml of chilled carbonated beer. (This is easy to do. Just draw up a bit of octyl alcohol into the pipette and then let it run out -- the little bit that stays in the tip of the pipette is enough -- and then use this pipette to draw your 10ml sample of beer.) Apparently, the octyl alcohol makes it easier to get accurate measurements of the carbonated beer. - --------------------------- Speaking of surplus lab stuff, I recently scored a box of eight new and used 1/4 DIN (4"H x 4W x 8"D) self-tuning PID temperature controllers (West 2073's). I only need a couple of these, and so anyone is interested in one lemme know. These units have LED displays of both setpoint and current readings, will accept thermocouple, RTD, or linear voltage temp sensors, can be wired for remote setpoint adjustment and/or RS-422 I/O, have two separate output circuits, and lots of other goodies. [Comparable units list for >$400.] These are heavy duty industrial controllers that are perfect for a RIMS or other precision mash temp control system. I'm not so much looking to sell the extras as to trade them for other stuff I need, like RTD sensors. Similarly, as those of you who know me can attest, for the right person I'm often willing to just let you have one for next to nothing with the understanding that [begin mandolin background music and cheesy Brando impersonation], "some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do me a personal service" [or favor for the MCAB, AHA, Dixie Cup, etc.]. All the best -- Louis K. Bonham lkbonham at hbd.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:25:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: "Electric Stove" or "A Watched Pot Never Boils" Howdy folks. Moved. New electric stove has solid burners, not coils. It takes forever and a day to boil. Too long. The Whirlpool "Appliance Diagnostic System, http://www.whirlpool.com/appdoctor/appdoctor.htmls(cool), says my big enameled canner with the concentric ribbed bottom is the problem: "You should always use heavy gauge flat-bottomed cookware on solid surface burners, otherwise the cookware will not absorb the heat completely from the burner." So what's the plan, Stan? I figure I'm going to cram a bunch of aluminum foil under the bottom of the canner to make an artificial flat bottom, (Phil's Phake Phlat Bottom?). Or new brewpot? Or King Cooker? Any thoughts? As an aside, when I first started brewing on an electric stove, I tried the 'trivet' concept: some clothes hanger wire placed under the pot to lift it off the direct heat and prevent scorching. Same problem - year long boils. Matt Comstock in Cincinnati __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:50:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: My .02$ Greetings All! I just have to weigh in with a few quick thoughts: 1.) I enjoy the good natured banter from down-under and if you don't remember the [page down] key. 2.) Charlie P. showed me the light, he was there in the kitchen when my first batch went mostly into the carboy (I really should have paid more attention to the pictures, especially the one showing the use of a BIG funnel!) My skill and technique has advanced and my library has grown but his book still has an honored spot on the shelf. 3.) I have used "The Joy" to prop up my carboy during racking but why not? I mean I am very careful about what comes into contact with my "beer-n-process" and there is narry a bit of plaid on the cover! 4.) We need to remember that this is a hobby and that most of us do it for the joy of brewing or building equipment or the fellowship of other brewers or for the just plain fun of it all. 5.) Personal attacks are just not acceptable! I know I can always [page down] but it just doesn't warrant the band-width! Think before you post! Ask yourself if your post will help someone brew a better beer or at least provide a chuckle or two. 6.) The AHA is the most visable organization supporting your choosen hobby, support it and try to help make it better. In my opinon it has started to turn in the right direction applaud them for their successes and challenge them to greater heights in the future. 7.) The heavy duty technical stuff belongs along side the "newbie" questions the digest belongs to both ends of the spectrum. 8.) The number of "newbie" posts seems to be in decline, I can only hope that we (the HBD family, and that's what we are in a cyber-space community) haven't scared them off with some of the banalites that occasionally occupy this space. I prefer to think that the hobby has hit a bit of a slump. To correct this trend I challenge each of you to invite a non-brewing buddy to your next brew session (you might want to loan or gift them with a copy of Charlie's book if you really aren't using it any longer). 9.) RDWHAHB is really a pretty good mantra for many of life's stuck sparges, boil-overs, and "stupid brewer tricks". 10.) Kit beers, adjuncted kits, all grain, FWH, Mash Hops, Decoction, batch sparges, are all ways of simply saying "I am a home-brewer!". It is one big club with many branches. If you haven't tried some of these approaches then what are you sitting here reading this for? "Get thyself to a Home-Brewery" Chris Cooper, Pine Haven Brewing (aka. Debbi's Kitchen) Commerce, Michigan Member, Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild (Approximately 25 miles from 0.0 Renerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:21:47 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Lautering: Wort Does Not Flow Uphill Background: As many of you know, I have a document on my website called A Study of Fluid Flow thru a Grainbed using a Manifold-type Lautering System. http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/fluidflow.html The lautering flow model that was derived from those experiments is written up in Appendix D of my book. http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html One of the unanswered questions from that previous study was: Will the grain beneath the manifold (ie. in a concave sankey keg) be lautered? The mathematical model says that it will. But intuition cast doubt on that, so today (Tuesday at lunchtime) I ran an experiment to find out for certain. The Experiment: I filled a 5 gallon glass fish tank with corncob media, the same stuff that I used before. The media is about the same size as the coarser particles of the malt grist. I used a two pipe manifold with a spacing of about 3.5 inches. The copper pipes have slots about every half inch and are 15 inches long. The aquarium is about 10W x 20L x 11H. In other words, the aquarium was both too wide for the manifold (little bit), and too long for the manifold. But I thought the shortcomings would make interesting data. (And it did.) The key to the experiment was that the manifold was suspended on stilts exactly 1 inch about the floor of the aquarium. The manifold slots faced down. The outflow tube went up over the side and down 3 feet to the ground, controlled by a plastic stopcock. The corn cob media was soaked for two days prior to the experiment to ensure that it was thoroughly wetted. (That and the fact that it kept getting dark outside before I could do the experiment.) The aquarium has a glass bottom, so to test the flow from below the manifold I used a syringe with a long needle to place food coloring on the bottom without disturbing the grainbed. I placed/injected dye at three places on the bottom and two at the sides of the aquarium, and then started sparging. I don't have any of the pictures up on the web yet to show you, but here is a summary of the results: 1. During a total lautering time of 45 minutes, the food coloring spots placed on the bottom were never washed away. They spread out about 3x, but were never rinsed. 2. During the same period, I was able to add two different sets of dye to the free water on top of the grainbed and watch it wash completely through. The dye front matched the previous experiment and the mathematical model (see Appendix D for illustrations) except for the fact that it never went below the bottom edge of the manifold. 3. From the side, where the length of the manifold was about 5 inches shorter than the aquarium, the dye pattern showed a parabolic shape as it approached the end of the manifold. The depth of the dye pattern at the far left wall, 5 inches from the end of the manifold, was about 1 inch into the top of the grainbed, and this dye penetration depth increased parabolically towards the right until it reached the 1 inch from the bottom depth of the manifold. Conclusion: 1. While the flow model as I have previously described it remains largely valid, and manifolds remain an efficient way to collect wort, any grain that is beneath the manifold will not be lautered or sparged, and extract from that portion of grain will be lost. 2. This experiment sheds some light on the old question of whether the slots should face up or down. The results of this experiment show that the slots should face down, so that the manifold entry points are as close to the bottom of the tun as possible, because the wort will not flow up to the manifold. I hope this experiment is useful to many of you. I have some book revisions to make! John - -- John Palmer Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:46:27 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net> Subject: woodruff syrup is now available at a reasonable price! For those who have been waiting for a reliable, affordable source of Woodruff/Waldmeister syrup for their beloved Berlinerweise, it's here. Gina at German Deli.com has been working hard for months to find an importer of this impossible-to-find item. It has arrived in the states and has cleared customs. The brand is Gobber and the price is $4.49 for a 17.6 oz bottle. Gina assured me that it will now be a regular item and there is no need to hoard. I don't believe her so I'm going to stock up! Please thank her for the extraordinary effort when you place your order. http://www.germandeli.com/GoebberSyrups.html - -- Don Lake Windermere Brewing Co. a division of Lake Water Brewery a wholly-owned subsidiary of Canal Water Beverages, Inc. - -- ************************************************************************ Donald D. Lake * Lake Financial Group General Securities Principal * Registered Investment Advisor 2699 Lee Road, Suite 410 * Winter Park, FL 32789 Phone: 407-644-4998 800-768-8585 * Fax 407-644-1005 E-mail: dlake at amuni.com http://www.amuni.com Securities offered through American Municipal Securities, Inc. "Building wealth for the retirement years....Providing income to enjoy them" ************************************************************************ Return to table of contents
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