HOMEBREW Digest #3462 Thu 26 October 2000

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   (Steve Lacey)
  Swedish porter yeast (TOLLEY Matthew)
  I'm brewin' in the seven-ties... (Brad McMahon)
  re: David Humes ... The Headless Weizen Strikes Again ("Stephen Alexander")
  Need corn ? ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re:  Headless Weizen ("scott")
  chillin' question: CAP/Pre-prohibition Pils (darrell.leavitt)
  Neoprene as Lauter Insulation? ("Warren White")
  Lager pitching temps ("Dean Fikar")
  Re: The Headless Weizen Strikes Again (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Mexican Beer (jal)
  re:  Ball valve for Gott ("Kensler, Paul")
  Storing grain / keg line length ("Drew Avis")
  RE: Mexican Beer (Kelly)
  Dixie Cup Results ("Bev D. Blackwood II")
  Failed experiment ("Gregory M. Remake")
  RE: Drew, get thee to a punnery! ("Brian Lundeen")
  Protein rests and Headless wheat ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  galvanic corrosion, 3068 vs. 1056 ("Czerpak, Pete")
  North Eastern Beer Competition #5 Western MA (Jim Wallace)
  Galvanic/electrolytic corrosion ("Timmons, Frank")
  Re: Mexican ingredients ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day ("Gary Glass")
  Krausening Lager ("Max Brandenberger")
  Hops on Pergola ("Mark Ellis")
  Cutting the tops out of kegs? ("Mark Ellis")
  Need Kick-butt Winter Warmer recipe (Jaxson28)
  Chiller Survey / Mash Tun Valve (Ken Schwartz)
  Brass against Stainless Steel corrosion potential (John Palmer)
  Seeking Urquel utopia ("Scott")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:14:38 +1100 From: Steve Lacey <stevel at sf.nsw.gov.au> Subject: BR Rolya wrote: >Maybe it's a regional thing, but wanker is common in the >northeastern US... I can't believe how poor the grammar is getting in here. Surely you meant to write "wankers ARE common...." No? Sorry, couldn't resist. Steve Lacey Sydney Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:13:10 +1000 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: Swedish porter yeast > From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> > Is my beer runed? It's worse than runed - it's totally futharked. Cheers ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:06:26 +0930 From: Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: I'm brewin' in the seven-ties... TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> wrote: >At a recent book fair, I picked up an 'Australian Home Brewing Company' >catalogue from way back in 1970. >The first page is filled entirely with Commonwealth law (the Beer Excise Act >1901-1966), with definitions of mead, beer, spirits, excisable wines, and so >on, and warns of a $200 fine for brewing beer to more than '2% proof spirit' > - anybody know when this act was changed/repealed? The Beer Excise Act was repealed by the Beer Excise Repeal Act of 1968 when the powers were amalagamated under the Excise Act of 1901. That's not the answer you were looking for - you're asking when it became legal to homebrew here. I've spent the afternoon searching the legal databases and can't find it. I can't find the legislation which precludes a home brewer from requiring an excise licence. I do know it was mid-1970's. >The catalogue has a few ingredients I haven't heard of before - yeast in >tablet form, 'Vierka instant hop' (a hop concentrate in dried powdered >form), heading fluid, spruce extract (erk - wouldn't this make your beer >taste like Pine-O-Kleen?), lauterase (for a higher yield in mashing), and >speedase (removes a starch haze). Are these used by 'modern' brewers? Heading agent, lauterase and speedase are still available. I don't use them though. I have used pectinase for melomels. Deltagen P/L make those enzymes and are sold in little 10 mL vials at homebrew shops. >Ah, the prices - DME was 48c per lb, or $7.50 for an 18lb bag; malted grain >was 30c a lb, 45c for a 4oz pack of 'Ringwood Specials' hops, a 5 gallon >fermenter was $3.25, and a bench capper was $11.95. The Aussie dollar was >probably double the US back then, so halve these prices for US dollars. Never! In the 1970's before the currency was floated the US Dollar was worth 90 Australian cents (from memory). >Anybody make an orange stout before? :) No, but I do know people how have a dash of orange juice with their stout. I've tried it and it's not too bad. Brad McMahon Aldgate Sth Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 03:24:12 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: David Humes ... The Headless Weizen Strikes Again Dave is having problems w/ head on his Weizen's and notes ... >White Labs WLP300 Hefeweizen Ale Yeast I am not familiar with this yeast but George dePiro's comments and my own limited experience point to the fact that some (many) weizen yeast are prone to early autolysis which can seriously degrade heading properties. Weizen yeast seem to need more careful handling than most. Still if the beer never had good head this is an unlikely cause. >1. 5 days before brew day prepare a 1.050 1.5L starter. Too high an SG for a starter. I've seen a paper measuring viability of yeast started at various SGs and it gets pretty ugly much above 10P. You shouldn't even repitch yeast after fermenting 15P wort IMO - they may be too damaged. I'd suggest starters around 5P-9P. >5. Raise in 10 min to 131F (55C) and hold for 15 min. > (proteinase rest) This is the head problem and there can be little doubt. 50-55C is the a head-killing rest. Modern malts, even wheat malt, typically do not require a proteinase rest. and giving them one will certainly impact head and body in a negative way. I'd reserve this rest for raw grains only. If you need a modest proteinase rest to prevent haze you can rest at 58-60C where the damage is self limiting. Narziss at Wehenstephan avoids this temp range when using modern malts and advocates a quick step up to 58-60C from lower rests. Fix in AoBT appears to use hot water infusion to instantly step from mash-in temps to 60C - past the head killing rest. Kunze says (pp209-210), "The protein in malt is often highly modified. If such a malt is given a long rest at 50C(122F) there is a risk that too much high molecular weight protein will be degraded. The beer then tastes empty and insipid and the foam stability is poor. If the malt is well modified the rest at 45C-50C(113F-122F) during mashing can be restricted or eliminated and mashing-in temperatures of 58C to 62C (136F-143F) selected". Actually I'd suggest you only keep the 45C (try 43C) rest if you really want heavy 4VG flavors. I believe in a weizen it's better to balance esters and 4VG, but it's a matter of taste. You'd probably be better off mashing in at 60C or above generally. >5. Since I generally do not use lower temperature rests except when >brewing > with wheat, I suspect the next thing to try is to eliminate one or both > of these rests and just do a straight single infusion mash. Your instincts are sound. There is nothing wrong with step mashes, but wheat malt is not the same as raw wheat and the 55C rest generally to be avoided for well modified malts of any grain. == Brewer's spurtle ? Is that one of the sanke'mon ? Gotta catch them all. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 04:05:33 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Need corn ? >BIOTECH CORN PROBABLY IN FOODS >from The Washington Post > >Millions of bushels of genetically engineered corn approved only for animal >use have made their way into the human food- supply chain, officials said >Wednesday, raising the possibility that the corn will be found in a wide >array of foods. The corn involved is Aventis(UK) StarLink(tm) which has a gene to produce a protein toxic to corn borers and another which makes it immune to their Liberty(tm) herbicide. "Dawn of a New Age CAP" anyone ? 8^o -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 01:05:41 -0700 From: "scott" <Cuckold at cornerpub.com> Subject: Re: Headless Weizen Dave writes: I have never been too impressed with the head on my wheat beers, but it seems to be getting worse. Note that none of the other styles I brew have this problem. So, I have to believe it is related to ingredients or procedure and I'm leaning towards the latter. Since I generally do not use lower temperature rests except when brewing with wheat, I suspect the next thing to try is to eliminate one or both of these rests and just do a straight single infusion mash. Any suggestions will be glady accepted. - --Dave Dave, you don't say whether you keg the beer or bottle, or mention the carbonation results of your work. More carbonation might help. I usually only go with 50% wheat bill, but yours sounds sufficient. A last straw effort would of course include the infamous syringe technique, someone brought up here. After pouring the beer, draw up a couple cc's of beer, then reinject it into the beer quickly. Watch your teeth! Scott Richland, Wa. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:26:25 -0400 (EDT) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: chillin' question: CAP/Pre-prohibition Pils I brewed a cap/ pre-prohibition pils (if there is a difference, then someone please educate me based upon the recipe below) ... on 9/19/00. I let the temp rise near the end of the primary for the diaetyl rest...kept it around 60F for a day, or so, then chilled for about 2 days, then siphoned into the secondary (on 10/07/00). A couple of days ago I decided to slowly drop the temp (WhiteLabs Pilsner- Lager yeast #800) from the 50 F down to 40 or so...but as I did so I noticed small white bubbles at the surface...and when chilled to 40 (or so) then dropped out. Now when letting it come back up to 50 they are back. I am assuming that this is still the ativity of the yeast...and that if I want the brew to be drier..that I had best let this stop on its own at the correct fermetation temps (50-55F). Is this correct? By the way, any comments upon style, etc are welcome. In going into the seondary it tasted very good to me. Here is the recipe: 10# Canadian 6 row .5# CaraPils 1# Harina de Maiz (picked up on a trip to Puerto Rico) 9lb of the 6 row with the CaraPils in a mash at 122F for 20 min. Maize in with 1 lb 6 row for 30 min at 153F, then boiled this mini-mash. Added to the main mash to boos temp to 142F for 20 min. Raised temp of the whole mash to 158F for 20 min. Mash out at 170F. 1/2 oz Horizon pellets at start of 60 min boil. another 1/2 at 30 1 oz Fuggles at 15 First runnings were 1.076 Original Gravity was 1.06 Gravity going into seondary was 1.020 And, I forgot to mention, that I did make a starter with the WLP#800 yeast. ...Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 22:12:56 EST From: "Warren White" <warrenlw63 at hotmail.com> Subject: Neoprene as Lauter Insulation? 101 uses for neoprene, (legal ones anyway). Wotcher Folks... I'm noticing lately that the size of the HBD in general has dropped by an average of about 10-12k and I haven't posted for about 3 weeks, *So* conventional wisdom tells me, get typing "bandwidth boy". We bronzed Anzacs are just a tad thin on the ground at the moment. Mr. Sanders is in a temporary hiatus just at present because he's mulling over a new ISP... By all accounts his ISP has gone "belly-up" probably in the belly of a 12 foot saltie and was last seen being regurgitated in front of a crowd of bemused tourists outside the old Wyndham Meat Works (the croc was a former marathon swimmer). Such is the price he pays for raising the price of young Graham's web time. "Et Tu Brute" Mr. nasty guts ISP. But on a happy note for you all I think I'll leave the anecdotes for his Northern reparte, too much Melbourne rain has left me a little waterlogged, my muse sadly has drowned along with my sorrows. Back to the serious biz kidz. I'm contemplating building a new mash/lauter tun which will have a capacity of about 30 litres, it will be an unheated food-grade plastic bucket. My question being does anybody have any idea if neoprene would make a suitable insulation medium for this? Down here in the land of Rising Petrol, White Goods, Interest Rates and just about everything else that purges one's pockets a 38 Litre Rubbermaid Cooler is basically hard to obtain and out of the reach of my average punter's budget. The wife like's the sound of the neoprene though!! hmmm. Neoprene comes in around $12 per sq. foot at Clark Rubber (please keep your smutty little minds clean, they don't *actually sell rubbers), the cost of the bucket is nominal, the plumbing etc. I have not yet decided on, it will be one of 3 things; 1. Phils Phalse Bottom 2. An Ezymasher 3. A copper manifold What rates the best for Lauter efficiency here? I currently use a Phils Phalse Bottom but I am open to better offers. Not that there's anything wrong with the PPB. All in all this whole proposition should come in *far* cheaper than a 38 Litre Rubbermaid (sheeez, more rubber). * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Diego Lemionet writes: Subject: chiller Do you know if there is any conection with the soldering in my chiller = and contaminated wort? Because of my layout, the chiller has several = soldered joints (tin lead soldering) and I suspect this could be the = answer. I have sanitized my chiller with every procedure available = -chlorine, iodofor- and keep brewing foul vinegar instead. Any = suggestions? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Diego, I've been using an immersion chiller for quite a few years now and it has several soldered joints, the type of solder is unknown to me as I bought it already made. I've never had one infected brew with it... Your foul vinegar is most probably coming from some other place. I'd certainly strike the soldering from your list and I'd also refrain from trying to sanitize it with Chlorine... Very, very harmful to copper old son. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Dr. Pivo is feeling better... Much akin to Frances Farmer. (Isn't Lithium and shock therapy combined with a little tweaking of one's cerebal matter with a straightened coathanger quite amazing???) * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * He writes; And yes, thanks again for all the "get well cards". I am recovering nicely. I am certainly not helped by Phil whispering obscenities in my ear, or behaving like the waiter in "The Meaning of Life" who serves Mister Creosote. Phil is continually prancing around me holding a can of VB and saying: "just one teeny, tiny sip". * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Good to see the radical treatment worked on the good Doc! And as the waiter said... (played by John Cleese from memory) Eeeeets Waaaffeer thiiinnn and Mr Creosote then replies; I'm ffffick pifffff offfff! ... and duly "EXPLODES" And so shall I - Adieu and *bang* Warren L. White, Melbourne Australia * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * P.S. Question (only Aussies will probably get this) Dick Smith now sells a lot of his new food products at supermarkets in a bid to inflate our ailing economy... He's deciding now to include safety matches in his product line-up What do *you* think he should name them? E.G. Australia's most popular brand of matches are Red *HEADS*. Clue, Clue, Clue and his name "is" *DICK* Smith... Jeez, I wouldn't have a clue ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) Cryptic clue; A bloke called Richard Cranium informed me of this. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:24:25 -0700 From: "Dean Fikar" <dfikar at flash.net> Subject: Lager pitching temps For what it's worth, I'll contribute my procedure for pitching lager yeast. What I do is chill the wort down to the upper limits of the optimal fermentation range for the particular yeast. For example, my favorite lager yeast is Wyeast 2206 which can work at temperatures up to about 58 degrees. I simply chill the wort down to 58 degrees, pitch the yeast, and slowly lower the temperature down to what I consider the optimal temperature for that yeast. In this case, it's about 48 to 50 degrees. I'm not brave enough to chill the wort down to below fermentation temperatures and let it warm up during fermentation. I think the lag time would be a bit too long for my tastes. My way, pitching at the upper end of the recommended fermentation range, you avoid producing excess fusels and esters but also get a relatively quick start to the fermentation. I am able to produce the kinds of lagers I like using this method. Oh, I would not consider pitching less than a 2 qt. starter for a 5 gal. lager of normal gravity. For really big lagers, like a dopplebock, I always pitch on to the yeast cake of a previous batch. I aerate vigorously with pure oxygen for a couple of minutes or so which seems to be a much more important step with lagers than with ales. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:29:48 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: The Headless Weizen Strikes Again "David G. Humes" <humesdg1 at earthlink.net> is having a problem with the head and body of his wheat beers. It sounds like my "John the Baptist Weizen" of years ago - no head and thin body. As I think I've posted here before, those who paid attention in Sunday school will get it (right, Matt A?). I think you've provided the clues and solution: >4. Dough in at 113F (45C) and hold for 30 min. > (combined beta-glucan and ferulic acid rest) >5. Raise in 10 min to 131F (55C) and hold for 15 min. > (proteinase rest) <snip> >5. Since I generally do not use lower temperature rests except when brewing > with wheat, I suspect the next thing to try is to eliminate one or both >of these > rests and just do a straight single infusion mash. I'll bet if you just did a straight mash-in at your saccharification temperature, everything would be copacetic. After all, so what if it has a protein haze - unless you're after a kristalweizen. You could potentially lose some of the cloviness from skipping the 113F ferulic acid rest. If you wanted to keep that rest, just go straight from it to your sacch. temp. I do this sometimes with boiling water and heat with recirculation in my propane fired RIMs. Jeff - -- -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:46:13 -0500 (CDT) From: jal at novia.net Subject: Re: Mexican Beer Matt Tolley queries the lot as to the use of Mexican ingredients. I once brewed a chili beer (that Fred Eckhardt declined to sample upon learning of the featured ingredient) by dry chiliing a lightly hopped blonde ale. I brewed 10 gallons of 1.040 ale, and put seven Anaheim chilis (seeded and blanched) in one five-gallon secondary for two weeks. The beer had a pleasant chili flavor and almost no heat. It went very well with enchiladas. I haven't tried other Mexican ingredients, but Iberra chocolate in a stout or porter sounds interesting. Could make a good Christams ale. Jim Larsen Cerveseria al Fresco Omaha, NE Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:59:32 -0500 From: "Kensler, Paul" <Paul.Kensler at Cyberstar.com> Subject: re: Ball valve for Gott Jim, Its easy and cheap to make an excellent bulkhead fitting for a Gott cooler. The key is to get one of those minikeg bungs used in the 5L German minikegs, plus some basic brass fittings from any hardware store. Remove the old bulkhead fitting, including the rubber washer. Insert the rubber bungpiece (without the inner plastic plug) in the inside of the hole. It's a tight fit, so you might need to use a hammer to tap it all the way in place. Shove (a hammer and a block of wood might help) a 3-4" length of 1/4" brass pipe nipple through the bunghole. Attach a 1/4" ball valve to the outside of the pipe nipple. To the inside, you can get any number of brass fittings to accommodate whatever sort of manifold or false bottom you've got. I have a Phils Phalse Bottom, so I have a hose barb attached to the inside of the pipe nipple, and a small length of tubing connects the hose barb on the bulkhead to the hose barb on the Phalse Bottom. It works great, is nearly indestructible (I've replaced the bungpiece once in 2 years), and it is totally leakproof. Plus, using a real metal ball valve gives me much more control than any of the other options I've seen (hose clamp, plastic ball valve etc.). Hope this helps, Paul Kensler Got great Gott in Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 13:34:55 GMT From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Storing grain / keg line length Brewers: I must begin by apologizing for the painful pun I inflicted on you all yesterday. It was the Blanche de Chambly talking, I swear. It will never happen again. Secondly, Steve Alexander sent me some excellent information on humidity targets for storing grain, and I've tackled the problem threefold: 1) a dehumidifier is on order to keep humidity <50%; 2) all grain has been bagged in heavy duty garbage bags and then put in Rubbermaid trash cans, with another garbage bag laid between the lip and the lid as a vapor barrier; and 3) the rats and mice many of you warned about will be lured away by the blinking lights on my fancy new freezer / Johnson Temp controller contraption I like to call "The Freezonator". It runs like a greased wombat on rollerblades. Which brings on another question: the HBD archives are definite on the necessity of dispensing 15 psi kegged beer through 10' of 3/16" tubing to achieve a good pour. Alan McKay has a nice write up on his site about kegging, and he promises to provide the calculations for determining the optimum length for other IDs or PSIs in the near future (nudge nudge Alan, the future is now...). All I can lay my hands on at the moment is 1/4" ID tubing. So how much should I use to reduce the PSI and get a good pour? And out of curiosity (and because Physics class is a distant, painful memory) how would I figure out the volume of beer in the line? Thanks! Drew Avis in Merrickville, Ontario http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/sb/ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:46:52 -0500 From: Kelly <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: RE: Mexican Beer Howdy!! There is a brew pub here just outside of NOLA in Metaire, LA...called Zea's. The had a wonderful lager when they first opened. It used roasted Anaheim chilies (like you would use in chile rellenos)....they used these in place of the finishing hops I believe....VERY tasty...a good, light drinkable beer. I'm a chile head myself...and am thinking of trying a variation on this myself. I'm thinking these other variations you are thinking of would be good...but, you just have to be careful not to let any of these good additives be overpowering.. Kelly - --------------------- You Said..... - ------------------------------Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 15:12:07 +1000 >From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> >Subject: Mexican beer >Been thinking about using Mexican ingredients in brewing. A chipotle and l>ime lager, perhaps? Any suggestions/precautions when brewing with chiles? >What about Iberra chocolate to give a cinnamon flavour to a stout or dark >ale? Anybody used fresh coriander/cilantro in a brew? Read about 'corny' >lagers recently - anybody tried using hominy in beer? What about '>fortifying' a brew with tequila? Dry-chipping with mesquite? Just >brainstorming at the moment, but I know some wacko out there has probably >done all these and more :) >Cheers >...Matt... If you had to identify, in one word, the reason why the human race has not achieved, and never will achieve, its full potential, that word would be "meetings". Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:47:31 -0500 From: "Bev D. Blackwood II" <blackwod at rice.edu> Subject: Dixie Cup Results The results of the 17th Annual Dixie Cup are available on the web at: http://www.crunchyfrog.net/dixiecup/results2000.html The Foam Rangers would like to thank everyone who attended and all of you who entered. Our entry total was 721 entries from all over the country. Next year's Dixie Cup will be October 18-19 at the Courtyard by Marriott Houston Galleria (In other words, same October weekend, same hotel!) See you then! -BDB2 Bev D. Blackwood II http://www.bdb2.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:26:56 -0500 From: "Gregory M. Remake" <gremake at harza.com> Subject: Failed experiment Hello all, Nice to see some excellent q&a in recent HBDs. I've got some experiment results to pass along and some questions. After four years of fermenting in nothing but carboys, I decided to give open fermentation a whirl. I decided to ferment in my bottling bucket, and since I've often read about traditional breweries fermenting in completely open vats, I didn't cover the bucket at all during initial fermentation. Thanks to good extraction and a little extra sparge water, the Best Bitter recipe I brewed filled the bucket to the rim, so I drew off a few quarts and fermented that in a closed jug, next to the bucket in my closed basement closet. Thanks to a huge starter I had visible activity in about four hours at 68F in both vessels. Two days later I skimmed the yeast from the surface in the bucket, but to my horror noticed several fruit flies buzzing around. Until then, the surface had been completely covered with thick kraeusen, so I hoped the flies were merely feasting on the bit of wort that had been spilled from the bucket. I placed a cover on the bucket and let it finish fermenting. When I bottled the batch a few weeks ago, the samples tasted fine and I looked forward to trying a carbonated sample. This past weekend I chilled a bottle from each fermenter (open and closed). The closed fermenter sample was a bit green but otherwise held great promise. The open fermenter sample, however, had a decidedly sour taste, with no head and a strange "slick" consistency. I've never had a batch go bad before, but I think these signs are the hallmark of bacterial infection. I have since tried several more bottles and they all have the same characteristics. Although drinkable, the open fermentation bottles are completely inferior to the closed fermentation counterparts. Now for my questions. Will extended aging help the infected bottles recover, perhaps with cold conditioning? I doubt it but thought I'd ask. Also, I had planned to use the yeast I had harvested from the primary in a new batch. Given the suspected infection, I doubt it's worth the risk, but wondered if anyone else has run into this. I had really wanted to conduct a valid comparison of closed vs. open fermentation with this batch, having heard so much from the "open" proponents. Unfortunately, all I've confirmed is that I hate fruit flies. Perhaps it wasn't entirely their fault, but if I have to seal off a bucket fermenter, then I see little difference from using a carboy. Carrying a full bucket was not much easier (if at all) than a carboy in a milk crate, which is my usual practice. And I couldn't watch the yeast hurricane through the plastic walls of the bucket, either. Maybe some day I'll try open fermentation again, with a few more precautions, but it won't be anytime soon. Cheers! Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:53:25 -0500 From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Drew, get thee to a punnery! Drew Avis PUNishes us with his posting: > > I'm brewing a beer using the Swedish Porter yeast, so I > thought I'd label > the carboy using ancient Viking lettering. > > Is my beer runed? > > - Drew > Drew, I WODEN't worry about the runes causing any problems. As long as the airLOKI doesn't become clogged with krausen, your beer should turn out ASGARD as gold. Cheers, Brian PS THORry for the lame humour. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:58:09 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: Protein rests and Headless wheat Dave asks about headless wheat beer. >4. Dough in at 113F (45C) and hold for 30 min. (combined beta-glucan and ferulic acid rest) Here is your head destroying rest. Noonan says 113-122F dissolves polypeptides (head and body). Optimum protein rest is 122-140. I'd suggest doughing in at 130, resting for 15 min and raising to 154. hope this helps, Stephen Ross ______________________________________________ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:02:33 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: galvanic corrosion, 3068 vs. 1056 larry Maxwell asks about his chiller/brewery design and dissimilar metals corrosion. Copper chiller with brass fitting is the scenario. he wants to connect to SS pipe nipple on the mash tun. In looking at a galvanic table, I see that brass and stainless are pretty far apart on the chart showing that their is corrosion potential at the junction where the SS would corrode if it is active or the brass would corrode if the SS were passivated. I am unsure if your SS if passive or active. your thought of the dielectric union is pretty good except that I would recommend against it due to the potential to get rust in your water/wort per the Fe oxidizing. Otherwise the Fe is close to SS in the chart if its active and it might work. using an exotic plastic is probably better. I might recommend a PDVF (polyvinylidene fluoride) coupling or union based on available space issues. Mcmaster carr has them in 1/2", 3/4", and up sizes for about the $10 to 20 range. check them out. Temp range is 280degF and its great for pharm/food applications! JOhn (wallybrau at aol.com) asks about his 1056 vs. 3068 experience. Did you pitch direct from the package or use a starter? if you pitched equal amounts without a starter, I would theorize that the 1056 has a better chance to overcome underpitching as its a pretty tollerant and durable yeast. the 3068 may have just pooped out early since it is more picky about its reproduction and alcohol production environment. if both were scaled up adeqautely, then I am stumped. pitch BIG!! hope these help. pete czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:53:01 -0400 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: North Eastern Beer Competition #5 Western MA New England Fall Regional Homemade Beer Competition will be held on December 2, 2000 at the White Church in Old Deerfield MA (North Western MA) This is part 5 of New England Home Brewer of the Year Competition (NEHBOTY) This is a revitalized competition, under new leadership it has gone from a questionable venture to one of growing importance. Last years event earned great feedback. I am really trying to encourage entries outside New England this year. We have established a good pool of certified judges and can accommodate the increased entries. If you are interested in entering our competition you will find all of the details at: http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace/NEHBOTY/NEFRHBC.html If you are interested in judging contact me at: jwallace at crocker.com or 413 625-2494 _________________________________ Jim Wallace http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace _________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:48:41 -0700 From: "Timmons, Frank" <frank.timmons at honeywell.com> Subject: Galvanic/electrolytic corrosion Larry Maxwell asked about this in HBD 3461. You really only need to be concerned about the galvanic couple if the two metals are going to be immersed in an electrolyte. Unless you are going to leave liquid in the system for storage, you probably don't have anything to worry about. Even if you do that, the corrosion rates are fairly low. If you are still concerned, you have three options: 1) use a brass/copper union, because the corrosion will be worst where the metals actually meet, and if it is a problem, it is cheaper to buy a new union than an new chiller, or 2) use a brass/carbon steel (usually called "black iron" improperly) dielectric union (this is not without problems either, because the carbon steel will form a galvanic couple with the stainless steel), or 3) find a suitable plastic threaded union (the temperatures involved rule out PVC, but you might be able to get away with CPVC). Teflon tape will not insulate the dissimilar metal adequately. I decided to use a short piece of reinforced vinyl tubing between my stainless steel and my maxichiller, mainly so I can disconnect it from the rest of the system for cleaning and sanitizing. I brazed a barb fitting to the chiller to make sure I got a good seal. Frank Timmons James River Homebrewers Richmond, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:12:57 -0700 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <don at steinfillers.com> Subject: Re: Mexican ingredients TOLLEY Matthew writes: "Been thinking about using Mexican ingredients in brewing. " You can't get more Mexican than using agave. After all agave is the first known ingredient ever used in North American to make an alcoholic beverage. Pulque was brewed by the Aztec over 2,000 years ago and still is in some regions of Mexico. The Aztec actually had a "Pulque God" - my kind of religion (here come the flames). Don Van Valkenburg brew at steinfillers.com www.steinfillers.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 14:47:10 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day Hi All, Teach a Friend to Homebrew Day is coming to your town...maybe even your kitchen or backyard! For the second consecutive year, the American Homebrewers Association and the Home Wine and Beer Trade Association are teaming up to bring you Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day. On November 4, 2000 we encourage all you homebrewers out there to introduce your friends and family to the wonderful world of homebrewing. Take 'em down to the local homebrew shop and introduce them to the shopkeeper, then go and brew. The idea behind Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day is to bring new brewers into the hobby of homebrewing, which will result in a stronger hobby for all of us. For more information check out: http://www.beertown.org/AHA/teachbrew/index.htm Cheers! Gary Glass - ------------------------- Gary Glass, Administrator American Homebrewers Association Voice: (303) 447-0816 x 121 Fax: (303) 447-2825 Email: gary at aob.org Web: http://www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:07:57 -0500 From: "Max Brandenberger" <maxb at austin.rr.com> Subject: Krausening Lager I've just brewed my fist lager after countless successful batches of ale. Almost since the beginning of my brewing days, I've used the krausening method of adding unfermented wort back to my fermented beer before bottling to provide the necessary sugar for carbonation. This method has been successful every time I've used it in ales, with no infections. My standard procedure (for 5 gallon batches) is to decant about 1 liter of hot wort (directly after the boil, before chilling) into a steam sterilized bottle, and then cap it with a steam sterilized bottle cap. I then put the bottled wort in the refrigerator and forget about it until I'm ready to bottle. On bottling day, I bring the bottled wort to a boil for 15 minutes and then chill it before adding it to the fermented beer prior to bottling. With a lager, however, I'm concerned about the length of time that the unfermented wort has to sit in the refrigerator before bottling. My fermenting and lagering for this particular batch is going to take about 8 weeks. That's an awful long time for the unfermented wort to sit in the refrigerator, even under the best sanitation conditions. With my ales, the length of time between brewing and bottling is usually closer to three weeks. Is it worth the risk of infection, even if I boil the unfermented wort like I usually do, to use this method as opposed to adding corn sugar like most homebrewers? Any advice on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Max Brandenberger maxb at austin.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 08:47:52 +1000 From: "Mark Ellis" <mellis at gribbles.com.au> Subject: Hops on Pergola G'day Brewers, Just interested to know if any of you green thumbs out there have used hop vines on a pergola or other such garden structure. Any problems etc. Interested to hear your responses. Ciao Mark E. in Oz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 09:15:47 +1000 From: "Mark Ellis" <mellis at gribbles.com.au> Subject: Cutting the tops out of kegs? G'day Again, OK, I have seen a lot of different ways that you can knock the top out of a keg, but I am very unsure what would be the "best" method rather than just the quickest. Can someone help please. Thanks, you guys are the greatest! Mark E. in Oz Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 18:46:27 EDT From: Jaxson28 at aol.com Subject: Need Kick-butt Winter Warmer recipe Can anyone supply me with a great recipe for a Winter Warmer, I have not been able to find one in the literature available to me. I would like something not too heavy but with subtle alcohol and a nice hop bite and a refreshing hop nose. Any direction is greatly appreciated. Thanks...Keep the brews flowing Brian C. Jackson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:42:49 -0600 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: Chiller Survey / Mash Tun Valve Just a quick update on the Son of Fermentation Chiller survey. The response was overwhelmingly positive! I still have some logistical things to work out but it looks like the venture is viable. Seeing as cooler weather is at hand, the timing is probably right to plan on offering them in the spring of 2001. Information about the Chiller and the Survey can be found at http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/ . Scroll down to "Gadgets" and look for the flashing red letters...I would appreciate your input if you haven't already done so. ===== Jim Hust asks about adding a valve to a Gott / Rubbermaid. Jim, see the diagram at http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/files/mashtun.gif . You should be able to rig some variation of this for your ball valve. - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer E-mail: kenbob at elp.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:30:02 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Brass against Stainless Steel corrosion potential Hi Group, Larry asked about the corrosion potential of brass permanently connected to stainless steel, re. his wort chiller and boiler. All in all, not a big deal. Brass and Stainless steel are reasonably close on the galvanic series. (A .2 volt difference versus a .5 volt difference for carbon steel to stainless steel, versus .8 volts for aluminum/stainless.) In other words, the corrosion potential is low. For best results, do not use strong caustic cleaners, like lye. Treating with lye could cause the SS to actually corrode in preference to the brass, instead of the other way around normally. Drain the parts when not in use, and wrap the threads with teflon tape to prevent direct metal to metal contact. If this were a commercial brewery, then you might want to schedule routine maintanance, but in a home brewery situation, I doubt you will ever see any corrosion. John - -- John Palmer Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:04:53 -0700 From: "Scott" <Windsurf at bossig.com> Subject: Seeking Urquel utopia Had one person help last time, but still desperate, and hope someone with a similar problem can help. After four years of advancing my homebrewing skills, what great forsight I had to save water chemistry for last! What a headache. The goal? Water for a decent pilsner. My profile: Ca++ 6. mg+ 1. Na+ 85. Cl- 24. Alk 137. (as CaC03) Hardness 21. (as CaC03) ph 7.5 Sulfate ND Iron ND Yes, very high alkalinity. It seems others with this type profile use gypsum to get the Ca+ up, and lower the alkalinity, and thus, the ph. According to John Palmer's "How to Brew", even getting my water to the 5.9 ph style of beer would require 1gm/gal., raising the SO4 to 147 ppm. Using CaCL to get a ph of 5.6 would require 3.7gm/gal, raising the Ca to 264 ppm, and the Cl to 432ppm!!! I could substitute 1/3 or 1/2 of my brewing water with distilled. However, I am trying to make do the way real breweries do, that is, use what you have. I could preboil my mash/sparge water to get rid of some CaCo3. However, I would definitely have to add a lot of calcium in some form, just for the reaction to take place. I could use a combination of gypsum/cacl/preboil/pretreating the water with acid, or any combination of the above. Here's what I do as of this moment. Fire up 14 gallons of charcoal filtered water, almost enough for the mash and sparge for a 12 gallon batch. Add 8cc of 88% Lactic Acid, which reduces the ph to about 6-6.5 (using test strips with room temp sample) (no lactic smell or sour bite detected). I then usually add a Tb. of Cacl to the mash, (2-row pilsner malt). I haven't measured this amount yet, just add it because my Ca+ is so low, and because it seems like the right thing to do! The ph mash ended up about 5.5. Is this barking up the wrong tree, pretreating the water by decreasing the alkalinity with acids? I have tried the various software programs as well, and none seem to tackle water chemistry from this perspective. The Chemistry looks like great water for a PU clone, if I could only get rid of the #?!! CaCo3! Am I doing the right thing? Am I overreacting? Should I just have a homebrew? This is my first attempt at a pilsner, so am getting a little paranoid, as am using lots of Czech saaz (the alpha was only 2.8), and in my neck of the woods, the grain was so hard to get I bought 100kg of it! The results are not in as of yet. Racking to the secondary revealed a great saaz byte and smell, but it will be another 3 months (if I can wait that long) before I know the results. Scott Richland, Wa. Return to table of contents
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