HOMEBREW Digest #348 Wed 31 January 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  ALL GRAIN -> EXTRACT conversion? (ROSS)
  brewing recipe index stack (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>
  The Perfect Lager (Norm Hardy)
  Dry Hopping (John Polstra)
  Source of keg parts (drutx!homer)
  Steam Beer (Wayne Allen)
  keg parts and steam beer (Marty Albini)
  Homebrew Digest #347 (January 30, 1990) (Stuart Crawford)
  Ta Ta for now ("2645 RUTH, GUY R.")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 08:38 EST From: ROSS at mscf.med.upenn.edu Subject: ALL GRAIN -> EXTRACT conversion? Date sent: 30-JAN-1990 08:32:20 I am a malt extract brewer and would like to make some beers where the only recipes I have are designed for all-grain brewers. If I know that a particular recipe calls for : x pounds of malted barley y pounds of wheat Original gravity = 1.xxx ... is there any particular formula for converting this into pounds of extract needed. --- Andy Ross --- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 09:15:59 EST From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: brewing recipe index stack Thanks to all those who requested a copy of the recipe index HyperCard stack from me. If you sent a request, I replied. If you didn't get a reply then either the message never reached me, or my reply bounced. Send me mail again, and I'll reply ASAP. Also, if you couldn't get the stack running, let me know. I know it does work because several digest subscribers sent me mail saying that they successfully decoded the stack and had it running on their machines. If you want me to mail the stack to you, it is possible, but you need a copy of both the BinHex and StuffIt programs to decode it. If you can't handle that type of file, send me mail and we'll work out other arrangements. Prost! - --Mark Stevens stevens at ra.stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 90 21:01:51 PST From: polstra!norm at hplabs.HP.COM (Norm Hardy) Subject: The Perfect Lager Ha, ha. I bet the title got your attention. But when lager is mentioned I pay attention. My homebrewing goal is to make the "perfect lager". Ales are nice but my two experiences in Germany (84 and 87) forever changed my attitudes about beer. Currently, here is what goes in to one of my lager beers: (1) Yeast - I use liquid yeast. WYeast 2007 and 2206 seem to work well. I've had real good luck using and resusing something called YBL-2 which might be identical to a WYeast product. I'm on the 6th pitch and so far so good, but I'll probably have to chuck it or slant it next time. (2) Ferment - a 45f refrigeration for 4-6 weeks in the primary, following by racking and 2-3 weeks at 40f or less. The primary carboy is a 7-gallon with airlock (fluid level is 5.2 - 5.5 gal). The secondary carboy is a 5-gallon full up to the neck. (3) Storage - after bottling I keep the temperature below 50f and wait for 3-4 weeks before trying the beer. Yes, I am a patient man, but the wait is well worth it. My picky brother, who loves Urquell and dislikes most homebrew used the words "world class" to describe my last lager. Tempera- ture control seems very important in getting the smooth clean taste usually associated with a lager. (4) Specifics - I usually aim for an original gravity of 1.040 - 1.049. Any higher and the taste of alcohol becomes too evident for my liking. The German style hops (Hallertau, Tettnagg, Saaz, Perle, etc) are good because they are not too bitter (except perhaps for the Perle) and lend a nice aroma when used in the finish. Priming sugar is 2/3 - 3/4 cup, corn sugar boiled 10 minutes. I use Knox gelatin occasionally before bottling to help clear things out. The mashing scheme varies, but it is usually a step-temperature mash (like 125-150-158-168f). Sparging (rinsing) is slow at the rate of 1 gallon every 8-12 minutes. Any other brewers want to comment on their lagers???? Norm Hardy in Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 90 21:56:43 PST From: polstra!jdp at hplabs.HP.COM (John Polstra) Subject: Dry Hopping Since I'm the one who gave such a ringing endorsement of dry hopping a few issues ago, I guess I'd better come through now and describe how to do it. First of all, several folks asked what dry hopping is. Dry hopping is the addition of unboiled hops directly to the wort in the fermenter, as contrasted to the better-known technique of adding the hops during the boil. The purpose of dry hopping is to enhance the hop *aroma* of the brew. Dry hopping produces no bitterness, and little hop flavor. But it does produce lots of nice hop aroma. In commercial brewing, as far as I know, dry hopping is used only in making ales. It is standard practice in England at virtually all breweries. In the USA, it is the way that the small craft breweries achieve their wonderfully hoppy brews. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, you know what I mean. For bottled beer, the customary time to add the dry hops is when you rack the wort to the secondary fermenter. Just put the hops into the bottom of the carboy before you begin to siphon. Somebody asked if it was appropriate to add the dry hops to the primary fermenter. The answer, in my opinion, is *definitely not*. The beer should be mostly fermented out before you add the dry hops. If you are kegging your beer, it works well to just put the dry hops into the keg, rather than into the secondary fermenter. To avoid clogging anything up, I recommend enveloping the hops in a (pre-boiled) cheesecloth sack. Another way to prevent clogging in a soda keg is to take a stainless steel scrubbie, sanitize it, and jam it or wire it under the opening of the metal tube that carries the liquid from the bottom of the keg to the outlet. The idea is to make a filter that will keep the hops away from the opening of the tube. (I've never tried this second method.) I have read that it takes about three weeks to get the full benefit of the dry hops. But I've still gotten good results dry hopping in the secondary for just a week or two. If you are dry hopping in the secondary, you can use either leaf hops or hop pellets. I've tried both, and they both work fine. Pellets are easier to funnel into a carboy, and easier to wash out after you've bottled. They disintegrate almost immediately into a fine pukey green powder. This looks awful in the carboy, but it will settle out during the secondary fermentation. A word of warning, though, about using pellets: they often cause the wort to foam a whole bunch when you add them. I think that is caused by the dissolved CO2 "preciptating" out on the small hop particles. No big deal, it's just that you might have to clean out your fermentation lock daily until things settle down again. (And, of course, it might clog and make a mess.) These days I prefer to use leaf hops, just because they don't cause foaming. In a keg, it seems to me that pellets would cause crud and cloudiness problems. So I'd recommend dry hops in cheesecloth for a keg. A small amount of dry hops goes a long way. A quarter ounce of dry hops is enough to notice, while a half ounce certainly would not be overkill for most ales. Experiment and see what you like. [BEGIN EDITORIAL COMMENT] We homebrewers all like hops. Our natural tendency is to overdo it with the hops. Try to resist the temptation to dump two ounces of dry hops into your carboy. Remember, the name of the game in brewing is *balance*, and that is a very delicate thing to achieve. [END EDITORIAL COMMENT] The hops that you use should be as fresh and good-looking as possible. Don't cheap out and use some moldy old blobs that have been sitting in the back of the refrigerator for months. First, your risk of infection will be greater. Second, such crummy hops can add off flavors and/or aromas to the brew. Go ahead, splurge and buy a fresh packet of hops just for this. I haven't tried many different kinds of hops for dry hopping. My favorites so far are Willamette, Goldings, Cascade, and Hallertau. Well, that about covers it. Happy brewing . . . - John Polstra jdp at polstra.UUCP Polstra & Co., Inc. ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp Seattle, WA (206) 932-6482 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 08:52:52 mst From: att!drutx!homer at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com Subject: Source of keg parts Foxx Equipment Co in Denver and Kansas City sell parts for soda pop type kegs. They have washers, valves, quick-connects and all other parts need for kegs. They have advertised in Zymurgy, and sell a homebrew keg kit and a bottle filler kit. I have bought various parts from them and have been satisfied. 955 Decatur St Unit B Denver CO 80204 (800) 525-2484 (303) 573-1766 421 Southwest Blvd KC, MO 64108 (800) 821-2254 (816) 421-3600 Ask for their catalog and homebrew keg supplement. Jim Homer att!drutx!homer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 10:06:28 CST From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com at mcc.com (Wayne Allen) Subject: Steam Beer Albert Smith writes: "I want to make a steam beer." That's my next one, too. Here's what I'm making... Ole Bottle Rocket (brewed on the 4th of July, American as apple pie...) ----------------- 6 lbs light dryed malt extract (or 2 x 3.3 cans your favorite) .5 lbs toasted malt (spread on cookie sheet in 350 degree oven 10 minutes) 3/4 oz Northern Brewers pellets (boil) 1/4 oz Northern Brewers pellets (finish, 2 min. before end of boil) 1 pk. "Your favorite Lager yeast" I've made many variations of steam beer, but simple ones like this seem to turn out best, not to mention being easy to make. Using the general Papazian technique: Crush toasted malt as you would any grain, and put in ~1.5 gal. water till boil. Remove the grain and add the extract and boiling hops. 2 min. before end, add finish hops. Save some for the 4th. (I usually use more Northern Brewers than this, but then, no one will eat my chili, either...) _ W | Wayne Allen, wa at mcc.com | MCC/CAD, 3500 West Balcones Center Dr., Austin, Tx 78759 | I really really really really really really really like girls!!!! | Oh yeah I really really really really really really really | like girls!!! I like'm tall!! I like'm small!! I like'm | AAAAAAALLLLLLLL!!!!!! - Hank Williams, Jr. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 9:51:47 PST From: Marty Albini <martya at hpsdl39> Subject: keg parts and steam beer >DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR THE KEG VALVES? Try: IMI Cornelius (Americas) Inc. One Cornelius Place Annoka, MN 55303-1592 phone (612) 421-6120 fax (612) 422-3255 They also have a toll-free number, but I can't find it to save my life right now. The very helpful person I've dealt with there is Pat Burgoyne. You probably can't get parts directly from them, but they'll give you a part number so you can order from your local distributor (they might even tell you who that is!). One thing to keep in mind: if your used keg is the "old style" things get sticky. Parts availability is not perfect, and the person at Cornelius you talk to needs to know which vintage of keg you have. To identify your keg, open the lid, and check if the inlet and outlet fittings screw directly into the top (new style) or use a nut on the inside (old style). The poppets (the spring plunger doo-dads inside the fittings) interchange with the newer kegs, however. If you find you have an old one, to speed things up I can give you a copy of an exploded-view parts diagram they faxed me. E-mail and we'll work it out. If worst comes to worst I can score parts from my local source and mail them! >Thanks again. Florian. You're welcome! Someone also requested Steam Beer recipes; my favorite is Papazian's "The Sun Has Left Us On Time Steam Beer" in CJOHB. I have made several batches of this, and it seems to be appreciated even by Bud Lite drinkers. Extremely good at the end of a long, hot summer day. - -- ________________________________________________Marty Albini___________ "Thank god for long-necked bottles, the angel's remedy."--Tom Petty phone : (619) 592-4177 UUCP : {hplabs|nosc|hpfcla|ucsd}!hp-sdd!martya Internet : martya%hp-sdd at hp-sde.sde.hp.com (or at nosc.mil, at ucsd.edu) CSNET : martya%hp-sdd at hplabs.csnet US mail : Hewlett-Packard Co., 16399 W. Bernardo Drive, San Diego CA 92127-1899 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 10:48:49 PST From: Stuart Crawford <stuart at ads.com> Subject: Homebrew Digest #347 (January 30, 1990) I have three questions: 1. I'm making my first attempt at dry hopping, and have added the hops to the secondary fermenter. My plan is to leave the wort in the secondary for about a week, then I'll bottle. Should I attempt to filter out the hops prior to bottling, or is it sufficient to assume that I'll leave enough behind after racking that I needn't worry? 2. I always thought that the presence of roasted barley was the characteristic that distinguished a porter from a stout, yet when I look in that new book of award winning homebrew recipes (I forget the exact title), I see that some of the porter recipes have significant quantities of roasted barley. What *really* distinguishes a porter from a stout? 3. I tasted some Sierra Nevada porter over the weekend---fantastic! Anyone have a recipe that comes close to this brew? Thanks in advance, Stuart Crawford Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jan 90 11:59:00 MST From: "2645 RUTH, GUY R." <grruth at sandia.gov> Subject: Ta Ta for now Wednesday January 31 is my last day here at Sandia so I will not be able to continue receiving this digest (boo hoo). I've enjoyed reading all the sub- missions and have learned a great deal. If anyone has any news for me aside from what appears in the digest please forward it to: <73707.2262 at COMPUSERVE.COM>. Bye, Guy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #348, 01/31/90 ************************************* -------
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