HOMEBREW Digest #3522 Fri 05 January 2001

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  Free Strawberry Wheat Beer (Tony Barnsley)
  RE: Different carbonation levels in kegs/bottles (Alex Hazlett)
  Re: Different carbonation levels in kegs & bottles (Markzak11)
  Re: Degree Confluence Project (Brian Huntley)
  Re: Question about Lagers/Lagering (Jeff Renner)
  Dishwasher - Dirty Bottles (D.A.)" <drussel3 at ford.com>
  NetTyrants ("Richard Sieben")
  Confluence Project ("Eric Fouch")
  Samichlaus (Marc Sedam)
  Hop analysis ("Louis K. Bonham")
  Diacetyl rest question (Hop_Head)
  Affordable Conical Fermentor (Mike)
  General Non-Content/Base Malt Differences (cmmundt)
  Yeast original sources; Dundee Lager? ("Dave Howell")
  Reducing Cider Alcohol Level ("Peter Zien")
  Yeast Temperature Tolerance ("Bret Mayden")
  yeast bite (Marc Sedam)
  wiring (Marc Sedam)
  Address Change Notification (Some Guy)
  Bonus Days at the Babcock Brewery (Some Guy)
  lagering yeast ("Sean Richens")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:41:23 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Free Strawberry Wheat Beer Phil Wrote > Or maybe Tony could send him a strawberry wheat to really confuse him! And Graham Replied > Oh please PLEASE DO mate. I would like to taste a real fair dinkum > fruit beer, even if you are an Irish Welshman. to restore my faith > in fruit beers. Graham whilst I would love to oblige I can no longer do it. (I'm not sure that I could have done it morally anyway :> ). You see we were having a tasting session before Christmas and I gave some to Helen (TMB) her comment "It's not really a beer is it?" well that was enough for me IT HAD TO GO!! So I unceremoniously emptied the keg down the outside drain :< I have learned my lesson don't listen to > Irish/English/Scottish Australians who've had just too much rice lager - -- Wassail! Dai Owain Llewellyn The brewer formally known as The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361) Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK UK HOMEBREW - A Forum on Home Brewing in the UK Managed by home brewers for home brewers To Subscribe send blank email to uk-homebrew-subscribe at smartgroups.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 00:49:33 -1000 From: Alex Hazlett <arexu at hawaii.rr.com> Subject: RE: Different carbonation levels in kegs/bottles Did you prime the whole batch before bottling? Everything I've read on the minikegs is that they need less priming sugar (though I thought it was to prevent 'boinking' them...), perhaps that's why the mini is fizzing up... Alex Hazlett (I just started putting beer in mini-kegs myself, only one batch so far, so I dont have much practical knowledge of such, just what I read) > Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 18:56:34 +0000 > From: Tom smit <tom at lunica-data.com.au> > Subject: Different carbonation levels in kegs & bottles > > Hi, > > I made a rather nice bitter recently and bottled a bit over half and put 10l > into two 5l little kegs. The last bottle was finished last weekend-it had a > nice low carbonation and a nice head, though not as creamy and persistent as I > had hoped for. Last night I tapped the first of the two little kegs and got a > gusher of foam. > > The only difference in treatment of the bottles and kegs was that the kegs > spent a week or two longer in my 'cellar' (at20C) than the last bottles did. > > What caused this huge difference in carbonation? An extra week at higher > than 'fridge temperature? The larger volume of ale in the keg? > > I have 20l Russian Imperial Stout (a partial mash version of the recipe in G > Wheeler's book) sitting in four more of the little kegs since 25/11/00. Will > they also be gushers? Should I tranfer them to another container that can be > vented? They have a long time to mature before bottling! > > All six kegs are now sitting in my second brewfridge. > > TIA > > Tom Smit > > Little horses brewery > At 34deg 52' S, 138deg, 30' E, can someone pls figure out for me my Rennerian > coordinates? (I'm too busy draining my little keg before it explodes) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:47:54 EST From: Markzak11 at aol.com Subject: Re: Different carbonation levels in kegs & bottles Tom, Looking at the "gushing" mini-kegs, here's some thoughts based on similar experiences (all disclaimers apply for company references): 1) Bottles & mini-kegs require different levels of priming. I have found that more than 1oz. of corn sugar in the kegs can produce the excessive carbonation levels. Take a look at the Williams Brewing site, www.williamsbrewing.com, for a more in depth discussion. 2) I have also had good success using a pressure relief bung manufactured by Listerman. This works well in preventing the expanding mini-keg. Good luck, Mark Zak Sandpiper Brewing Co. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:03:23 -0500 From: Brian Huntley <bphuntley at home.com> Subject: Re: Degree Confluence Project In #3521, Eric Ahrendt wrote: > > After the original post I checked out my neck of the woods - Ohioans are an > industial bunch. Only one out of ten left and that's way down in the south > east. I'll hit it this summer on a motorcycle trip if it's still open. > Apparently Michiganians and Ontarians are slackers. Michigan has several > open and in Ontario only one out of approximately 150 have been tagged. > There's one south of Windsor (probably the southernmost point of Canada, > excepting Pelee Point/Pelee Island) that's practically on the beach. I might > get that one by boat this summer. There are four reachable in a reasonable time (by car) from Toronto Ontario - one of them's in a suburb of Buffalo, NY, however, and doens't count. Of the remaining three, two have been (rather poorly) visited but as they're on private land, not pinpointed. I was planning on renting a car and a GPS and doing those two in the spring, but may have to settle for just the NW one. While there may be about 150 in Ontario, 50% of our population is in one small area, and the north is VERY empty. It's like Oz with porcupines instead of wombats, and frostbite instead of sunstroke. You can't just hop in a big pink bus and drive there, either. Beer related: I have a bitter and two wines sitting cheek to jowl on my brewing bench, fermenting. All use yeasts rated for 20 C, but the actual temperature is down around 16. The the bitter is still going strong, but the wines are lethargic as hell. Can anyone explain why? [I've since tried to raise the ambiant with a 100w lightbulb nearby.] Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:07:10 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Question about Lagers/Lagering Chad Mundt asked >what is the >advantage of lagering in a secondary versus lagering in a bottle. I think it's a matter of choice and convenience. You should get less sediment in the bottles by lagering in bulk as you will have perfectly clear beer at that point, but your friend's technique of using Polyclar gets around that problem. > I currently have two 5 gallon (19 litres) batches lagering. A German >Pilsner and what I hope turns out to be a Dortmund style. I was thinking >that the yeast in the beer will not be very active for priming when I >bottle after sitting for 2 months in 30 F (-1 C) temperatures. Should I >add new yeast for priming, and if so, will using a dry yeast cause any off >flavors, I used liquid yeasts to make the beer. I was planning on using >Saflager S-23 as the priming yeast. I seldom lager that long - six weeks seems to be enough, and I seldom bottle any more. However, when I do bottle, I've never had any problem with the yeast being active enough to carbonate just fine. I generally make sure to drag a little yeast off the bottom of the secondary with the tip of the racking cane when I rack into the priming vessel. Then I let the bottles rest at cellar temperature two weeks or so, then keep them refrigerated. Good luck. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:51:05 -0500 From: "Russell, David (D.A.)" <drussel3 at ford.com> Subject: Dishwasher - Dirty Bottles First off, Happy New Year everyone. I know we have a resident "fridge" expert out there, but I hope there is also someone with some dishwasher experience to help me out. My standard procedure after emptying a beer is to: rinse the bottle out well, and place it in the dishwasher for that little extra cleaning, then store the bottles downstairs until my next batch. I have been doing this for about 2 years. A few weeks back, I noticed that I was getting some left over "residue" in the bottles after the dishwasher was done with the cycle. It looked to be small grains of dirt left in the neck of the bottles. This "dirt" is easily rinsed out after the dishes are done. No other dishes were getting this residue/dirt, but nothing else shaped like a beer bottle was being washed in the dishwasher. After I discovered this, I did some experimentation. Cleaned out any residual dirt in the trap in the bottom of the dishwasher, I did what our local "radio" appliance expert recommends in cleaning out the dishwasher by running a bottle of powder "Tang" to clean out the spray jets. We use the tablet form of dry soap, we run hot water in the sink before starting the dishwasher. I am pretty sure that this is a new occurrence, and I have not had this problem before, I am sure I would have noticed. With everything I have done, it continues to occur. Any help? David Russell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:27:57 -0600 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: NetTyrants Brian Lundeen, Sorry to hear about the NetTyrants blocking your hbd. I prefer to think of them as the LAN Nazi's. As I remember, it is likely that the Nazi's did drink beer, so maybe you can coax them..... Rich Sieben Island Lake, IL far far away from any LAN Nazi's Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 12:53:02 -0500 From: "Eric Fouch" <airrick147 at hotmail.com> Subject: Confluence Project Eric Ahrendt says of my Statesmen: " Apparently Michiganians are slackers. Michigan has several open and in Ontario only one out of approximately 150 have been tagged. " I was hoping my last penicillin shot would take care of my confluence problem. Since it has not, I shall check the site. Hmmm......No confluence points near my backyard or the bowling alley I'll bee at tonight. I have a picture of myself and a freshly gutted deer near the Sterling confluence point, and some drunken fishing footage of me near the Dowagiac confluence point. I'll see if I can get closer. Eric Fouch N42,52,30 W85,37,30 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 14:47:07 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Samichlaus So you want to clone Samichlaus? Welcome to the Thunderdome, my friend. I've spent a goodly deal of time, effort, and energy trying to clone this bad boy and I recently came very, very close. It's my pet beer since I'm born on the day it's brewed and released, so I always toast myself with my stash of them each year. The only problem with my version is that I left the beer of the yeast for several months and now have a very nasty yeast bite that makes the beer nearly undrinkable. Anyhoo...here's how I did it. RECIPE FOR SEDAMICHLAUS GRIST 20lbs of 2-row 3.5lbs honey added to the wort after removing from heat ***note: based on Michael Jackson's recent article, I would replace 2lbs of the 2 row with 2lbs of Munich malt*** MASH I used a very laborious mash suggested to me by Jim Liddl. I got very good efficiency and an attenuation of 85.2% (calculated with StrangeBrew) using this mash method and a 1.25 qts/lb water/grain ratio. I feel this mash method is necessary to get the final beer down to a reasonable gravity and not have a cloyingly sweet taste. a) mash in at 37 C, hold 20 minutes; b) over the course of 20 minutes raise to 49 C and hold 30 minutes; c) over the course of 10-15 minutes raise to 60 C hold 30 minutes; d) raise to 63 C and hold 25 minutes; e) raise to 65 C and hold for 30 minutes; f) raise to 70C for 10 minutes HOPS 90 minute boil total. Add bittering hops at 60 minutes. my recipe: mash hop with 3oz Ultra, bitter with 1oz Chinook and 2oz Bullion Jackson suggestions: bitter with German Magnum (NOT Yakima Magnum) and Perle --I'd suggest around 60IBU total, flavor with Saaz--I suggest 2oz. YEAST WLP885- Zurich Lager Yeast (WhiteLabs Platinum Series) This is the yeast used to brew Samichlaus with. I know...I cultured it up from a 1996 vintage and gave it to WhiteLabs to clean up and use. It's a very slow fermenter and, like most big beers, could use some rousing to keep the fermentation moving. The flavors associated with this yeast are critical to getting the Samichlaus taste in your version. It also makes a pretty kickass Belgian Ale--lots of spicy notes. It will ferment quickly down to 1.040, but needs to be roused regularly to finish the job. HOWEVER...if I had to do it again I might consider fermenting at 60F with an enormous amount of EDME dry yeast or fdry Danstar Nottingham (some antifoam agent is very helpful) to get the gravity down in the 1.040s, then crash cool and pitch a very healthy starter of the Zurich Lager yeast. I recommend a gallon starter of the Zurich yeast and pitch around 52F to get the good flavors of the yeast in your beer. I really liked my version done solely with the Zurich yeast, but it took quite a while to attenuate. Make sure to aerate/oxygenate the hell out of the wort. I did a one minute blast of pure oxygen at pitching and another blast 12 hours later. Stuff took off like a rocket. I would also suggest a heapin' helping of yeast nutrient in the cooled wort. With a beer this big, you need all the help you can get. So that's it. My version went from 1.115 to 1.017. The starting gravity was a bit low due to the amount of wort I could boil. I wound up making a separate 5 gallons of mild from the grist. With a big boiler and plenty of fuel and time, the recipe should give a starting gravity around 1.130 when you add the honey. Good luck. Big beers are so damn fun. -Marc Sedam Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 14:01:25 -0600 From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham at hypercon.com> Subject: Hop analysis Hi folks: On the subject of assaying alpha and beta acid levels in hops, those of you who are interested might wanna check out this article: http://www.scisoc.org/asbc/journal/pdfs/2000/0317-01R.pdf It's an ASBC paper presented at their last convention, entitled "Development of Near-Infrared Calibrations for Hop Analysis." The method described is apparently a hot topic inside the ASBC, in that it would allow quick and accurate assays of hops by near-infrared reflectance(NIR) spectroscopy . . . without the need for any of the wet chemistry! Of course, it *does* require a NIR spectrophotometer . . . . All the best -- LKB Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 15:11:53 -0500 (EST) From: Hop_Head at webtv.net Subject: Diacetyl rest question When doing a diacetyl rest, is it ok to rack the beer to a secondary carboy before doing the rest? I have a pils in the primary now throwing a bubble around every 25 seconds or so, and I want to brew another pils using the same yeast cake tomorrow. Can I use this method for the rest or do I have to wait and brew on another day? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 15:41:41 -0500 From: Mike <mroesch at bellsouth.net> Subject: Affordable Conical Fermentor Well after eleven years of "marital bliss" = No homebrew...;={) I'm finally "getting back to it" in a big way. I'm wanting to eventually "all grain brew", although I am going to make some extract brews so I have something to drink (after all you can't work on homebrew equipment while drinking a "store bought" brew can you?) while "tinkering" with brewery equipment in my basement brewhouse. I have been doing some surfing on websites for advanced equipment and came upon the Affordable Conical Fermentor II by Minibrew. Has anyone used this device yet? It seems to be a good choice for an all grain brewer who would like to harvest yeast for subsequent batches etc. Anyway, any opinions? experience? Mike Roesch Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 16:20:31 -0500 From: cmmundt at AircraftBraking.com Subject: General Non-Content/Base Malt Differences Hello All, First, I must mention how grateful I am for the brewing information and daily escape from SWMBO that I get from reading the HBD. The content and lack therein of all posts keeps me on the edge of my seat waiting for next installment. I would like to thank Stephen for bringing up such painful memories that the Michaelis-Menten reaction kinetics caused me over 9 years ago as an undergrad, but keep the installments coming. As for the fellows discussing Darcy's Law as it applies to lauter-tun flow, any empirical data you record I would enjoy sifting through. I have not worked on any 2-D or 3-D flow models in a while. It is always good to keep your math skills sharp. Now beer related stuff. I switched to all-grain brewing about 5 months back and have successfully brewed 4 beers, two I have tasted and two are lagering. I have been sticking with highly modified malts to make it easier for me. I was wondering where I could locate a book, journal/magazine article(s), web sites, HBD archives, etc. that summarizes the different characteristics the various base malts provide to the beer. For example, what would be the differences in a beer brewed with Munton & Fison Pale Malt versus M&F Marris Otter Malt, or should I just brew different batches and find out for myself? Hoppy Brewing, Chad Mundt cmmundt at aircraftbraking.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:24:15 -0700 From: "Dave Howell" <djhowell at qwest.net> Subject: Yeast original sources; Dundee Lager? All: Is there a chart on the Web, listing the various yeasts and their *origin*? What I mean is a chart like: WhiteLabs xxx Primary Pilzn (Pilsner Urquell) . . . Wyeast 1006 Chico . . . Wyeast 2007 Anheuser Busch Wyeast 2112 Anchor Brewing I'd love to see a chart like this! Also, nobody had any suggestions on the Dundee Classic Lager. Next time I go to the grocery store I'll see if I can get a contact address for the brewer and ask them... For those who have not tried it, I thought it was a pretty good brew. Dave Howell Brewing in Mesa, Arizona, where the temperature was a cool 77 deg F today... "The time has come, the Walrus said, to speak of many things: Of shoes, of ships, of sealing wax, of cabbages and kings, and why the sea is boiling hot and whether pigs have wings." --- Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:35:04 -0800 From: "Peter Zien" <pz.jdzinc at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Reducing Cider Alcohol Level I'm new to cider making, and watched in amazement as Chris White's English Cider yeast attenuated my 1.080 OG cider down to 0.998 FG. I bottled half the batch as is, but would like to have a lower alcohol version for the rest. I have heard of two methods: 1) Dilute with water; and 2) Heat to 180 degrees F to cause the alcohol to evaporate. Diluting with water would seem to be the easiest, but at what cost flavor-wise? And I'm not too thrilled about the concept of heating a fermented cider and then cooling it down and bottling. I know that commercial ciders are often sweetened and diluted with water prior to packaging. How do the experienced cider makers on HBD feel about these methods of reducing the alcohol level in cider? Are there other ways to accomplish this? Thanks for the help, Peter Zien Quality Ale & Fermentation Fraternity (Quaff) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 01:39:05 -0000 From: "Bret Mayden" <brmayden at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast Temperature Tolerance In the 1/4/01 HBD, Darly Newbury wrote: "The temperature of the brewing area seems in my new house, seems to hoveraround 16C/61F during the winter months. I brewed yesterday with WhitelabsEast Coast Ale which has an optimum temperture range of 68-73F, will I have problems getting it to ferment at that temperature?" My brew room stays about 62F. I pitched a tube of the White Labs WLP008 on 12/18/00 into 80f wort; lag time was 18 hrs. Airlock never showed the activity I get with dry yeast. 10 days later, primary still had some krausen on it but activity was very slow. The beer did not have the sour tang I have read about from other brewers, but it was still very malty (OG was 1.063 & had dropped to 1.016). I went ahead & racked to secondary. It finally dropped the krausen after a couple more days & now activity has finally died off to zip. I haven't checked SG yet but the beer is clearing, so I will bottle this weekend. Hope this gives you an idea of what to expect. Bret Mayden brmayden at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:02:10 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: yeast bite My earlier post on Samichlaus spoke about the nasty yeast bite that it has after sitting on the yeast for too long. Has anyone found a way to get rid of this taste? Would pitching fresh, actively fermenting yeast do the trick? Any suggestions would be great, since the batch was not only expensive but very cool to brew. I'd hate to think my laziness wrecked it. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:09:44 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: wiring I need some help from the electricians in the audience. I just got a pump from Moving Brews (NAYY) that I'm ready to get brewing with. I didn't realize it came unwired. It has three wires total (positive, negative, ground??). Is there anything I should take into consideration when wiring? I assume I can head to Lowes or Home Depot and find a regular switch, right. On a similar note, I salvaged a stirplate from a friend of mine who's a chemist. I opened it up, cleaned it out, but wound up having to put a new switch in the front because the old wiring was decayed. Now when I use it the outside gets hot after about 10 minutes (metal housing). I did not use solder to connect the wiring to the switch. Is it possible that the inefficient connection is causing the heat or is it more likely that I've reversed the wiring? I know the ground wire is right, but I don't want to switch the wiring if all I need to do is get some solder. A wandering brewer looking for electrical help. No need to warn me not to play with wiring. I already know I'm in over my head. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:37:33 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Address Change Notification Quick note: As of tonight, thee email addresses pbabcock at oeonline.com and babcockp at mediaone.net are officially and totally gone. Please use only the pbabcock at hbd.org address from here on out! Thanks! - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:42:11 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Bonus Days at the Babcock Brewery Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Well, I was having problems with both the washer and the dryer. Exercised my home warranty, and repair technicans dutifully came out and replaced the motors on both. As an added bonus, they left the old ones behind. Now, the trouble I was having with the washer I had already identified as a broken coupling (they replaced that as a matter of course when replacing the motor). The dryer didn't like to start when it was hot. Both, for my purposes, are quite functional! So? Does anyone have any neat ideas for where I can use a couple of pretty heavy duty motors in the brewery? I'm thinking the one can replace the existing motor on my mill. The other, perhaps a mash mixer? - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:34:23 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: lagering yeast I may not be the most experienced or scientific lager brewer, but I have always used the big free refrigerator with the blue ceiling and the bright light (modulated by opening and closing the brewing room window) so I'm very experienced in mistreating yeast. I think -1 C is a bit cold for lagering, but at least it slows down any bad things happening to your yeast as much as the yeast themselves. If you're worried, suck a bit of your secondary yeast cake into a 2 L batch of fresh wort (go ahead, use DME), get it going, pitch it back in, and bottle as soon as it's done fermenting. Lagering in bottle or secondary isn't a hard choice, just do both. I don't go to such a low temperature until I have a decent bottle carbonation going, or I screw up, whichever happens first. The beer still tastes wonderful. Sean Richens srichens.spamsucks at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
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