HOMEBREW Digest #3546 Fri 02 February 2001

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  RE: 15.5 gallon beer keg as a fermenter ("Steve")
  Motorising Valley Mills (Wes Smith)
  Floor Malted MO (Wes Smith)
  Subject: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? ("BeerBloke")
  DH (Kevin Elsken)
  HD # 3544 - Great White North (East) Brews ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
  Racking from plastic fermentor ("Fred L. Johnson")
  hop ID ("Al Beers")
  Philco  fridge (fridgeguy)
  DH ("Bridges, Scott")
  Re: NC Micros (ctreves)
  Wort Sensitivity (Bob Hall)
  DH / Kettle volume / Fig beer / 1/2 barrel fermenters (David Harsh)
  RE: Kettle volume indicator ("Houseman, David L")
  Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? (Jim Cave)
  re: How to rack from primary fermentor (The Artist Formerly Known As Kap'n Salty)
  Drunk Monk Challenge - 3/24/01 - 1st call for judges ("Formanek, Joe")
  RE: DH ("Beth Fuchs")
  Racking Cane ("AYOTTE, ROGER C")
  racking with spigots (Frank Tutzauer)
  Re: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? (Jeff Renner)
  Funky Pils (AJ)
  RE: Floor Malted Grain (SiteAcquisition)
  DH (Danny Breidenbach)
  I'm not dead yet! ("S. SNYDER")
  faucet racking vs. siphoning ("S. SNYDER")
  Gearheads (Epic8383)
  Keg Fermenter (Epic8383)
  Low Carb Beer ("Anthony Torrez")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 21:04:17 -0800 From: "Steve" <brewingone at home.com> Subject: RE: 15.5 gallon beer keg as a fermenter Mike, I've been using 15.5 gallon kegs as fermenters for quite awhile. I took a different approach though, I had three 15.5 kegs sitting around and a dozen 5 gal cornies. I thought, if only there was a way to thoroughly clean the 15.5s the way I do my cornies? The only thing stopping me was the lid. I took my 3 15.5s and 3 of my less-than-perfect cornies to a friend that does stainless welding, he plasma cut holes in the tops of the 15.5s and tig welded the cornies lids to the kegs. It took quite a bit of polishing on the inside with my air die-grinder outfitted with an abrasive flapper wheel, but they came out very nice. Now I place a 10gal batch in one of the kegs, place a blow-off tube on the CO2 fitting and never worry about getting the krausen clogging up the tube because of the 4.5 gallon headspace (even with a hefe). After the primary fermentation is done, I transfer it via the draw tube to a second 15.5 under CO2 pressure and finally follow the same procedure when filling the cornies for carbonation and serving. The only time my beer comes in contact with air is when it leaves the brew kettle on its' way into the primary, after that I always transfer under CO2 pressure into purged kegs. Cleaning them is a snap, pop off the lids, hit them with my pressure washer and have my daughter (skinny arms) clean out any residue that's left. You can also place the kegs on your propane burner to heat up the water if you are using PBW. If you're interested in seeing photos of the system, let me know and I can send them to you. If you don't know someone that has a plasma cutter and tig welder, you can find a certified stainless welder in the phonebook, each keg should take about an hour of labor (if the guy knows what he's doing). Most welders will charge between $45-70 an hour. Overall a much less expensive option than the Sabco system. Anyone in the Seattle area interested in doing some 10gal all-grain batches, shoot me a line. Since I moved from SoCal, I don't have a brew partner anymore. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 18:21:55 +1100 From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Motorising Valley Mills Hi Folks, Ant Hayes asks about the mechanics of motorising a Valley Mill. I did mine a couple of years ago but did not go with 300 rpm - that is simply too fast and with 8 to 10kg of grain it will generate a lot of heat. My mill is one of the earlier ones with nylon sleeve bearings on the adjustable idler shaft and the damn things move around when the mill gets hot and partially seize the roller. My recommendation is 120rpm - thats about as fast as you can consistently hand crank (unless your Regan Pollandi - boy he had the ESB one SMOKING!) Also you are making things difficult by starting with a 2800 rpm motor - much better to try for a 1440 rpm which will have a switch start and give better starting torque. The acid test is raw wheat - it really takes some crushing. I also went with a pully/belt reduction setup using a lay shaft. The project became a nightmare and if I had my time over again I would go with a worm drive reduction box that delivers 120 or so rpm. New about A$280 or you should be able to pick up something at a second hand or surplus machinery place. I have some photos I can email if anyone is interested. Wes Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 18:23:00 +1100 From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Floor Malted MO Hi Folks, Benjamin Edwards asks about the availability of Beeston floor malted MO. Sadly it is no more - the Bairds maltings which produced the floor malted MO has succumbed to developers and the last batch of malt was produced in early December last year. The final batch was however given due ceremony with a small function attended by CAMRA and other interested parties. I actually had dinner with the plant manager last November while visiting another of the Bairds maltings in Scotland - a very informative and well lubricated few hours. To explain the Bairds/Beeston thing - Beeston is the North American trading name for malts produced by Bairds Malt Limited in the UK. Here in Australia we have the same range of malts under the Bairds brand. But take heart, there is a new replacement product called Pale Ale Malt (slightly different from the old Pale Ale Malt) which has an almost identical specification but is pneumatically malted. No other varieties have been floor malted at Bairds for some years. I also understand that there are a couple of small floor maltings still operating in the UK but pricing is an issue when it comes to importing. In any event I will be in Old Blighty next week and will make some enquiries and report back. No disclaimers - I import & distribute Bairds products in Australia. Wes Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:46:43 -0000 From: "BeerBloke" <BeerBloke at btinternet.com> Subject: Subject: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? From: "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> > My local homebrew shop owner said that Beeston's is now no longer >floor-malting their Maris Otter and that he was planning to switch to >another British maltster, someone whose name starts with an F, perhaps >Forest or some such name? 'Lurk mode off' There is a family-owned maltsters in Stanstead Abbotts in Hertfordshire, England called 'French and Jupps' They've been around since 1703 but are a specialist dark maltsters. They don't produce any pale malt. BeerBloke 'Old Wibblers Brewery' Romford, Essex, England. ICQ 48953086 http://www.wibblers.co.uk BeerBloke at wibblers.co.uk 'Lurk mode on' Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 06:52:07 -0500 From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net> Subject: DH On good authority from the wife, DH stands for 'dear husband'. Or at least that is what they want us to believe. She got a good chuckle when I told her what SWMBO stood for... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 07:47:20 -0400 From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: HD # 3544 - Great White North (East) Brews Living now in PEI and having imbibed in Halifax since 1981, you can expect a pretty good experience in one place and the jurification for a truck load of brew for the other another. PEI is the land of the most restricted liquor laws in Canada as well as the worst selection of everything but whisky of which it has a decent selection at a decent price. There is one brewer - Murphy's which supplies its own restaurants with draft and which are moderately basic which is as bland a recommendation as I can imagine. What is great in PEI is the food. Oysters bought bulk from the wharf, lobsters boiled at the cottage. Good golfing and beaches too. If you need cottage location / recommendations, feel free to drop me an e-mail. If driving here bring your own brew onto the island as the store selection is limited and expensive. If you are going to try Maritime large production brews, each has it followers: I drink Oland's Ex as a good commercial pale ale. Halifax, on the other hand, is one of the true hubs of dypsomania in the country. I once heard Ed McCurdie, the folk singer, call it a shopping mall for alcoholics. While there are no true globally first rate brew pubs such as the Kingston Brew Pub of Kingston, Ontario or the Whip of Vancouver, BC or Gritty McDuff's of Portand Maine, there are pubs...and taverns...and bars...It has the second highest number of drinking establishments per population only after St.John's Newfoundland [which is so great you really need to spend some time training in Halifax before you can justify it]. Garrison and Propellor are the local micro brews which are very good. Grantite Brewery is the oldest brew pub with a very comfortable setting. Their Peculiar is bottled by Hart Brewery in Carleton Place Ontario {as is the Kingston Brew Pubs' Dragon's Breath Pale Ale] Have pan fired Haddock at Maxwells Plub and a Caledonian 80/ - it is beers of the world place. Have "Two and Juice" and steak and eggs at the "Midtown on Saturday morning hung. For trendies the Economy Shoe Shop on Argyle Street has a good selection of brews on tap that move quickly to the Hoegaarden is always fresh in summer. Go to the Lower Deck late on Friday night and watch Nova Scotians sing our own folk songs at the top of our lungs after a couple of gallons of draft. Also, eat a donair, local Lebanese community fast food Maritimers love - must be done inebriated - smells the garlic coming out of your pores for days. Check out the websites for Halifax night life or even the Halifax Daily News for a good sense of the city. Go to see Lunenburg, one hour down the south shore. A United Nations' certified gem of a old fashioned coastal town. Also, eat more seafood... There is also a great brewing supply shop, Brewng Centres, in Dartmouth on Akerley Blvd. It is run by a couple of guys who have won national awards for their own brews. They do mail deliveries for we rural brewers in the hinterlands. Again, any help you might want would be no problem to provide. Both Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island have very keen tourist government agencies. Do some internet seaching and they should pop up quickly... Alan McLeod in PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 07:49:10 -0500 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Racking from plastic fermentor Gregor asks how to rack from a plastic bucket fermentor. Gregor has probably had the same difficulties I and many of us have had in maintaining the racking cane in a convenient location and keeping it in place. Greger fears that allowing the beer to flow through the very convenient spout at the bottom will contaminate his beer. I tried a number of not very successful methods until I finally gave up and started using the spout. However, I take special care to keep the spout sanitized from the time the bucket is first sanitized. I store the spout (except for the rubber gasket, which will corrode) in a bucket of iodophor with a lot of other small parts and tubing. When the bucket is sanitized with iodophor, the solution is emptied from the bucket with the spout (at least partly). After emptying the bucket, I close the spout and immediately connect a 5 ml syringe filled with iodophor to the end of the spout with plastic tubing and fill the spout with iodophor. The spout has a little vent hole that allows flow in this otherwise sealed arrangement. I keep the syringe and iodophor on the spout until I'm ready to move the beer from this fermentor to a secondary. Before I use the spout, it gets flushed thoroughly with iodophor solution and a bulb type syringe (or any other type of syringe), taking advantage of the little vent hole in the spout. I make sure the spout is well drained before I connect tubing to it and then open the spout to allow flow from the primary fermentation bucket to the secondary (carboy). No problems in about 30 brews using this method. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 07:55:39 -0500 From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com> Subject: hop ID Jay wrote: I'm beginning to doubt the original labelling. I was wondering if anyone was aware of a lab or service that could confirm the hop varieties growing in my garden. You might try the Hopunion site: http://www.hopunion.com/pics.htm I found it helpful, when I had similar situation. Hope this helps, Don't take life too seriously...you won't get out alive. Al albeers at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:58:51 -0500 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: Philco fridge Greetings folks, In HBD #3545, David.Personaire asks about drilling the side of an old Philco fridge to install a beer shank and faucet and wants to avoid hitting any refrigerant lines. Fridges of that era were made to last and were simple designs in comparison to what is built today. The small ice cube tray compartment in these old fridges is actually the evaporator. The refrigerant lines should be visible at the rear of the compartment where they run from the evaporator into the rear of the cabinet. There is usually a sheet metal cover or panel on the rear of these fridges that covers the insulation and refrigerant lines. Some are formed in a way that allows you to see where the lines run. Others can be removed to allow access to the lines. In almost every case, the lines run down the back of the cabinet, near the center. The side is likely to be the safest place to drill the fridge. In rare cases wiring may run through the area so use caution when drilling. There is often a trim piece near the door gasket that can be removed to allow access to the area between the inner and outer cabinet. The insulation will likely be either rock wool or fiberglass so it can be moved aside for a better view. Some of these old beasts used porcelainized steel inner cabinets which can be pretty tough to drill. See the current thread on drilling enameled brew pots for ideas. Be sure to seal around any opening you create to prevent air leaks and to keep moisture out of the insulation (which may already be water-soaked). Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2001 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:30:56 -0500 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: DH >Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 09:31:54 -0700 >From: "Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> >Subject: DH? - Re. Off-topic observation > >Ok, I'll bite. What does DH stand for? Ahhh, DH. The pet name my ex-wife had for me. Brings back many fond memories (sarcasm). Well, it's obvious that the guys who are not familiar with this term have never been married. Scott Trying to find time to brew in Columbia, SC. p.s. One of these days I'll get my GPS out and figure out where the h*ll I am in rennerian coordinates. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:17:13 -0500 From: ctreves at vic.com Subject: Re: NC Micros I recommend "Weeping Radish" micro. Usually available are: "Fest" and "Corolla Gold". I have been trying like hell to duplicate the "Corolla Gold" in homebrew and haven't been able to. Also, the law in TN is "no beer imported thru the mail" so I can't get any of this stuff myself without going over there. I have pestered their distributor about this more than once and have been told that the R-D area is as far west in NC that they can be found. He recommended hitting several large grocery stores. They run a microbrewpub in the Outer Banks if you are getting out that far. They also ship to places that allow beer to be shipped in, unlike TN. www.weepingradish.com If you find it, for pete's sake have a Gold for me b/c I can't. Christopher Reves frustrated in Knoxville,TN miatachris at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:19:32 +0000 From: Bob Hall <nap_aca_bh at nwoca.org> Subject: Wort Sensitivity Stephen Neilsen wrote: "My experience, such as it is, indicates that splitting the brew period is filled with complications. I have had perhaps five ocassions where this has happened, genreally due to SHMBO screaming bitter somethings in my face .... With one exception, the beer tasted like the local dog population had used my chiller as a hi tech (dog-wise) dunny" Stephen, new-born wort is a delicate creation! It senses discord, picks up those "bad vibes," and when alarmed withdraws frightened into its worty-fetal shell. Your wort has been permanently scarred by those 'screaming bitter somethings.' Not true you say? Look at your own correlation. Try an experiment .... coo, kiss, and nibble some ears over the next batch (SHMBO optional). Post the results on HBD (primarily the brewing, but results of the cooing might make interesting reading too). Reminds me of growing up on the dairy farm. Be calm around the cows .... stressed cows = no milk. Stressed wort = no beer. We must have done alright ... never had a tank of milk taste like doggy do. Bob Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:55:21 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: DH / Kettle volume / Fig beer / 1/2 barrel fermenters Greetings- Obviously, DH are my initials. I don't believer, however, that the most common usage in society is in reference to me. At the risk of offending someone with coarse language, I think it usually is a variant of the term "richard head" if you know what I mean. - --- Kettle volume If you aren't going to impose your welding friends to put in a sight glass, why not take a stick <tm> and put little marks on it at various volumes that you measure. You could then dip it into the wort and see how high it gets wet. Hmmm. Dipping a stick, you could use this in other applications as well. I better patent that concept soon before it makes its way into the public domain. - ---- Fig beer There's a Belgian ale that includes figs as a flavoring adjunct (it is not a lambic). As many Belgians have raisiny/plum/etc. notes, the fig flavors blend nicely. I don't remember the brewery or the name, but check Jackson if you want the details. As far as a conventional "fig beer", I can't say it appeals to me. But then, I want to make a kimchee beer to mess with judges that want to tell me that a rotten cabbage aroma and flavor is inappropriate. (no, I'm not serious) - ---- Instead of worrying about sealing the barrel, just do what a friend of mine has done. Take two half barrels, cut a small opening in one (~8" diameter) and a large "boiling kettle" size hole in the other. You can then take the large "opening" and use it as a lid for the small hole and you have essentially an open fermenter (plug the hole where the tap fitting was. The lids from the small holes can be used as cymbals in bockfest parades. If you must seal the keg, Dan "every telemarketer's worst nightmare" Listermann uses a pressure relief valve on a corny keg for fermenting but I don't know if he's selling them yet. Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:55:24 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Kettle volume indicator As a volume indicator in my sankey kettle I took a wooden dowel (could have been my wooden paddle but had an extra dowel but didn't want to mark up my, at the time, new paddle, ne large restaurant wooden spoon) and marked it as a dip stick. I added water to my kettle, 2 quarts at a time, letting the surface settle then placing my dip stick into the kettle, withdrawing it, and marking with a pencil at each addition. So I then had a dip stick which was calibrated to what the wort in the kettle would be. I had one problem which had to get fixed. Originally I used cold water and due to the thermal expansion of liquid, the measurement at high temperatures was incorrect. It would have been ok for the wort when chilled but I was always off when I was measuring hot wort out of the lauter tun or during the boil. So I re-did the calibration using water that was about 200oF so that I was close to both the knock out temperature of wort and to that of boiling wort. It's been much more accurate as far as predicting the true volume of the wort in the kettle and what yields in the fermenter as I measure boil off. A dip stick is easy and cheap. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:13:38 -0800 From: Jim Cave <cave at psc.org> Subject: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? Benjy Edwards asks if anyone still floor malts their Maris Otter. Beestons does and I believe Crisp does (if they are still going). BTW Beastons is excellent malt. Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 15:22:49 GMT From: mikey at swampgas.com (The Artist Formerly Known As Kap'n Salty) Subject: re: How to rack from primary fermentor In HBD 3545 Gregor wrote: > I am afraid that I would > infect my beer by letting it flow through the plastic faucet. > Or do you use the faucet? If so, how do you make sure that > there are no nasties hidden in the faucets. Life would be much > easier, if I could use the faucets, because they normally are > placed just a few centimeters above the bottom of the vessel > and would neatly leave the yeast cake and trub behind. And > there is easy flow control. Go ahead and use the spigot, provided everything is cleaned this will work fine. After sanitizing the bucket, run the sanitizer off through the faucet. Then you can seal the nozzle up with plasic wrap and rubber bands if you'd like. If you're _really_ paranoid, get a syringe and repeatedly squirt idophor or sanitizer up the nozzle 10 minutes or so prior to racking (use a bucket below the fermentor to keep from making a mess). I used this method for years with no problems (I've since gone to a stainless fermentor, tho). Cheers -- m ************************************** Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:24:11 -0600 From: "Formanek, Joe" <Jformanek at griffithlabs.com> Subject: Drunk Monk Challenge - 3/24/01 - 1st call for judges THE DRUNK MONK CHALLENGE March 24, 2001 Sponsored by the Urban Knaves of Grain The Urban Knaves of Grain will host the 3rd Annual Drunk Monk Challenge homebrew competition on March 24 at Two Brothers Brewing Company in Warrenville, IL. The competition is AHA sanctioned and will accept all styles of beer, cider, and mead according to the 1999 BJCP style guidelines. It is a qualifying event for both MCAB IV as well as the 2001 Midwest Homebrewer of the Year Award. Beer BOS winner will have the chance to brew their award-winning beer at Glen Ellyn Brewing Company, of Glen Ellyn, IL! Once again, we'll feature the Menace of the Monastery, a special category for beer styles which recall the monastic brewing traditions of Belgium and Germany: Belgian dubbel, tripel, pale, strong pale, and strong dark ales, plus German doppelbock. Requirements: 2 bottles. $6 fee for 1st entry, $4 each for 2 or more entries for the main competition; just $2 each for Menace entries. Entry deadline is March 17th. Prizes: Ribbons for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd in each category plus 2nd and 3rd places in Beer and Meed/Cider BoS and Menace. There will be a split Beer and Mead/Cider BOS this year, with each receiving a commemorative plaque, as does the Menace of the Monastery champion. Complimentary DMC tasting glass for all volunteers. Speaking of Volunteers: Please help! BJCP judges and apprentices, please contact judge coordinator Steve McKenna (mckennst at earthlink.net, 630-305-0554) or competition chairman Joe Formanek (jformanek at griffithlabs.com, 630-378-4694) to volunteer. Fun stuff: Volunteers Party the night before. Potluck dinner at the brewery after the competition. Plus the ever-popular huge raffle. Information, Rules, and Entry Forms: Available at the competition website, (http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/) or contact me. Online registration is also available at the website. Cheers!!! Joe Formanek Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:52:07 -0700 From: "Beth Fuchs" <bfuchs at chtm.unm.edu> Subject: RE: DH Frank and Jeff are wondering about DH: I guess I can speak from a bit of experience here, as I'm one of the people on rec.crafts.textiles.needlework who used the DH designation in the past. DH can stand for many different things, all depending on what DH has most recently done. Some times it is Damn Husband, some times Dear Husband, some times Dunder Head..... I think you get my drift. The trick is to know which DH you are talking about. Beth Danny says: >Here in the HBD, most of us refer to our spouses/spousal equivalents >as"SWMBO." >In the needlework group, you see references to "DH." So what the heck does it stand for? Dumb Head? Damn Husband? Doesn't Help? Daddy's Home? --frank Ok, I'll bite. What does DH stand for? Jeff Luck Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:21:00 -0500 From: "AYOTTE, ROGER C" <RCAYOT at solutia.com> Subject: Racking Cane I want to add my two cents to the discussion of racking cane for siphoning wort to the CF chiller. The advice is correct, it will work but become soft etc. However, many have missed the opportunity to help advance this brewer to new ideas. Make a copper racking cane, it will withstand the hot wort just fine. Add to the bottom of the cane a 1" diameter copper pipe cap. Solder this on by inserting the copper tube about 3/4 of the way into the copper cap (they use these for capping off 1" copper tubing/piping). Then attach this to your CF chiller via a length of flexible tubing. MAKE SURE YOU CLAMP IT WELL sorry to shout but this is very important, the tubing will get soft and allow air to intrude and at this point in the process, you don't want to infuse air into your hot wort. The beauty of the soldered on cap is that you can stuff it with stainless steel chore boy (curly ribbons of SS; can be found in any grocery store along side the brillo). This will act as a filter to help keep the hops and hot break out of the chiller/fermenter train. The cap will also only allow the wort to enter above the ~1" level and above, also helping keep out hops/trub. At the end of the siphoning, I usually tip the pot to get the last bit of wort out. By this time the hops have created a suitable filter bed and if you are careful and observant, you can recover almost all of your wort cleanly. The copper cane is sanitized at the same time the chiller is, I soak them separately, connect the cane and chiller, rinse with the hose, then siphon hot water through (no water through the chiller at this time so it will stay hot) then place the cane in the pot, fix with a spring clamp and siphon through the chiller into the fermenter. I use a piece of sanitized hose over the outlet of the chiller to suck on to start my siphon, I then slip on another piece of hose with a copper venturi aerator on it to aerate my wort as it exits the chiller. The copper venturi thing is a piece of copper about 8" long with four small holes drilled in it about 3" from the top. As the wort flows through the tube, air is drawn in through the holes and mixes with the wort. Good luck, and happy brewing! Roger Ayotte Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:53:20 -0500 (EST) From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: racking with spigots Gregor asks whether he should rack from his bucket by syphoning or by using the spigot. I use the spigot, but I share his concern. I often ferment in my damp, dank basement which is home to mold, fungi, and all sorts of unicellular life. I once stored a keg in the basement waiting its turn to get to the fridge, and like an idiot I left the cobra tap attached. The resulting biology experiment left me convinced that the local fauna would have no trouble whatsoever crawling up the spigot of my fermenter. I used to seal the spigot with a piece of tape. What I use now is an inch or so of racking hose topped off with one of the white caps from the top of an orange carboy cap I had lying around. On brew day, I sanitize the bit of hose and the cap, run sanitizing solution through the spigot, and seal it up by attaching the tubing and cap. I like to use Star San for this becuase it "hangs around" but I have used iodophor and bleach water, too. On racking day, since the spigot has been sealed in a sanitary environment, it's probably ok to use. Nonetheless, I rotate the spigot to its "up" position, and pour some sanitizer through it, catching the overflow in a cup. After appropriate contact time, I rotate it to the "down" position, attach racking tube, and rack away. If you're fermenting in a bucket with a spigot, whether you use the spigot or not, at clean up time it's important to disasemble the spigot and give it a good cleaning because all kind of yeast and other crud gets in it. --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:56:08 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter? "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> writes: > My local homebrew shop owner said that Beeston's is now no longer >floor-malting their Maris Otter and that he was planning to switch to >another British maltster, someone whose name starts with an F, perhaps >Forest or some such name? Can anyone confirm or deny this? That would probably be Thomas Fawcett and Sons. http://www.fawcett-maltsters.co.uk/malts.htm gives this info: "Seven Generations of Malting Experience . . . "The Fawcett family has been making malt in Castleford, West Yorkshire since the late 1780's. The Company was properly established in 1809 and became a Limited Company just after the first War in 1919. "The Company continues as one of the oldest family controlled and run businesses in the UK. The sixth and seventh generation of Fawcetts are actively involved in directing the activities of the Company today." ... "Fawcett's has kept abreast of technological progress in the malting industry without losing sight of traditional and proven methods. Today, Fawcett's remain as one of the few Maltsters still operating a floor maltings in conjunction with a saladin maltings and a state of the art automated germinating kilning vessel (GKV). "...Fawcett's Ale malt is produced from the best winter barley varieties available - Maris Otter, Halcyon and Pipkin are the main varieties used today. Spring varieties are used occasionally for specific contracts." North Country Malt Supply, another family business, is the exclusive importer to North America. http://www.northcountrymalt.com/. I've dealt directly with them for Fawcett's malted oats and was very happy with the service. I also received prompt and thorough technical support via email from a Fawcett family member. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 13:08:14 -0400 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Funky Pils Jeff reports a "funky" smelling Pils which he describes as sulfury and his wife as "dirty socks". Lets hope it is the former and not the latter. Pilsner is supposed to be sulfury. The sulfur dioxide is produced by the yeast during fermentation and it is one of my strong suspicions that the monks selected these strains for their sulfur producing qualities because sulfur keeps the beer in a reduced state and reduced state beer is stable over long periods of time i.e. the traditional 3 months (or longer in the case of Oktoberfest) lagering period. Usually you will notice the sulfur during the active part of the fermentation. "Smells like a paper mill." says Randy Paul who obviously has more experience of paper mills than I do. The sulfur smell should be a noticeable component of the new beer's "Jungbuket" and persist for a month or so after which the beer rapidly "turns" with Jungbuket disappearing in a couple of days. These comments are based on my experience. Others may have observer otherwise. The beer should still smell and taste sulfury to some extent and will have asulfur dioxide content of up to 20 ppm. This will gradually decrease over time. If you want to get rid of the sulfur diode the only methods I can think of would be to oxidizse it (which sounds like a very bad idea) or scrub it out with CO2. This should be doable by pressurizing the beer to 30-40 psi CO2 for several days then bleeding down to a few pounds. A couple of repetitions should eliminate a lot of the SO2 (and, naturally other volatiles as well). If it is really a dirty socks smell that suggests bacterial infection to me. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * RE capping on foam: This is easily done with most of the counter pressure fillers by simply giving the filled bottle a sharp rap with, for example, the handle of a screwdriver. The rap should produce enough foam to fill the neck but you have to be carefull not to overdo it or the cap will ride the foam column up into the air and onto the floor. Another technique used in commercial operations to raise foam in the neck is to shoot a jet of hot water into the neck just before the bottle reaches the capping station. I suppose home brewers could do that too but I've never tried it. The rapping technique seems much simpler. - -- A.J. deLange CT Project Manager Zeta Associates 10302 Eaton Place Fairfax, VA 22030 (703) 359 8696 855 0905 ajdel at mindspring.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:57:15 -0800 From: SiteAcquisition <siteacquisition at Home.com> Subject: RE: Floor Malted Grain This post is regarding : "From: "Benj. Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> Subject: Does anyone still floor-malt their Maris Otter?" I have good information that Crisp Malting from England and most likely Hugh Baird (also English) are floor malting their Maris Otter (Pale 2 row). Given the economics are against floor malting, I seriously doubt that any of the large American malt producers would have a separate small scale system for floor malting and a main system for high volume / high speed batch malting. Can you imagine a worker at Great Western dragging a wooden malt rake through a 4" deep malt bed in a small building with exact temperature and humidity control? I doubt it. If you want great beer, start with great ingredients. My standard base malt is Maris Otter and typically from Crisp. The bag even has great logo art on it, and makes a great wall covering. It is more expensive than domestic 2 row, but if you buy it by the bag, the rate gets reasonable. "When in doubt, add more hops." - John Maier, Brewmaster - Rouge Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 13:09:27 -0500 From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> Subject: DH To the stitchers, DH usually refers to "Dear Husband," though some admitted that any other D-word might be used. I just thought the difference between DH and SWMBO was striking. I guess those of us who do obey get the appellation "Dear," and those of us who don't, get some other D-word. - --Danny Boy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 13:58:19 -0500 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: I'm not dead yet! Reports of my demise have been greatly exaggerated. Scott Snyder Trumbull, CT 06611 ssnyder at lbghq.com Rotten Rotti Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:10:22 -0500 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: faucet racking vs. siphoning >Gregor mumbles: "is is going to be my first posting on HBD. I read HBD already since a long time though." You are what is called a "lurker" my friend. My primary fermenter is a 7 gallon bucket with no faucet at the bottom, however, my bottling bucket (which is a standard 5 gallon) does have a faucet. It sounds like you may have a hybrid of what I have. I have always used the siphon because my primary demands it, as I said I have no faucet. My only fear of you racking to the secondary with the faucet is aeration. If you just open the faucet and let the beer fall through the air into the secondary it will aerate and cause off flavors (stale). But if you attach a tube to the faucet and ensure the tube reaches the bottom of the secondary, that would certainly help reduce the risk of oxygenation/aeration. The faucet is certainly a location where infection could occur as there are some places in the faucet that are hard to disinfect. There is no reason not to siphon in my opinion. Scott Snyder Trumbull, CT ssnyder at lbghq.com Rotten Rotti Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:50:52 EST From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Gearheads OK, OK, I screwed up. Thanx to everyone who reminded me that gears multiply... Gus Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 15:11:21 EST From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Keg Fermenter Hey,ya At the risk of sounding like the bonehead that I am when it comes to gear reductions, here goes a question about a sanke keg fermenter. Suppose you hooked up the tap fitting, plugged shut the beer out line (which runs from the bottom of the keg), and use the gas in line ( which runs into the top of the keg) as your blowoff tube. When primary is complete, unhook the fitting, clean it, and reconnect this time with the beer out line unplugged to draw off the yeast from the bottom. You can then either let it develop carbonation real-ale style, or let it secondary for a while then draw off the last of the yeast, and force carbonate and possibly bottle from the keg. I see no reason to modify the top of the keg. Gus the gear-bonehead Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 21:04:45 -0000 From: "Anthony Torrez" <perpacity at hotmail.com> Subject: Low Carb Beer Inspired by the low-carb Atkins Diet fad, I was wondering about making a "low carb" beer. My main questions are: 1. What are the most attenuative beer yeasts? 2. Would it be possible to make good beer with Champagne yeast? 3. In your opinion, what is the best way to make a low carb beer. Thankyou everybody, Return to table of contents
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