HOMEBREW Digest #3558 Fri 16 February 2001

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  RIMS & Hot Side Aeration? ("Arnie Wierenga")
  re: Diacetyl in PU ("Stephen Alexander")
  Alcohol Metabolism ("A. J.")
  Burradoo Dreaming (David Lamotte)
  Weld Free Kits ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  California V (Whitelabs) (leavitdg)
  some thoughts on secondary-ing (leavitdg)
  Oxyclean & PBW (JGORMAN)
  Re: dry hopping (Martin_Brungard)
  Mash tuns ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  Re: alternative St Paddy's brew (Jeff Renner)
  killed yeast question (Jeremy Lakey)
  Post for The Ozzies/Anti-Seize (Richard Foote)
  sanitation technique questions ("Benjy Edwards")
  Hopback Design Questions ("John W. Myer")
  Graham (Chad Petersen)
  Screen vs. Screen ("Sweeney, David")
  Beer in Hong Kong? (IndSys, SalemVA)" <Douglas.Moyer at indsys.ge.com>
  Irony ("Sweeney, David")
  The Graham Experiment (scott morgan)
  RE: HBD on Avantgo ("Sweeney, David")
  2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Competition (Drew Beechum)
  Re: Millennium Ale ("Mike Maag")
  Re:beer in Ireland(February 13, 2001) (WilfPhoenix)
  Q. for Steve Alexander on overnight mashing ("elvira toews")
  Burradoo Apology (David Lamotte)
  Gott Coolers ("Steven Parfitt")
  dunkelweizen color (Rama Roberts)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:21:12 +1100 From: "Arnie Wierenga" <three_bears_brewing at hotmail.com> Subject: RIMS & Hot Side Aeration? Fellow brewers, first a thanks for all the wonderful info gleaned from the last 3-4 months of subscribing to the hbd. (Yes, I've been a lurker!) Special thanks to all those inventors of RIMS and the like - the info has been invaluable. Last Friday I cranked up a new RIMS successfully and while there will be some minor mods, it was very successful. One question regarding HSA. The system did not leak fluid during recycling, sparging etc. This stuff is basically low pressure. I have reasonable pressure from my water faucet and while flushing the system, closed a strategic ball valve and watched water leak from about 3 places. Does this mean that while recirculating, I have been inadvertantly sucking air into the system as well? TIA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 01:27:09 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: Diacetyl in PU Nathan Kanous writes ... >The only thing that I would >ask is that those who despise diacetyl in Bohemian Pilsners not drink them >and not espouse how terrible diacetyl is in a beer. That's a personal >preference, not an objective assessment / description. I have to agree. Some time ago (circa 1960 I think) sources of diacetyl were determined to include several negative processes of brewing - infection being the most blatant. Somehow the statement "if you have process problems then you will have diacetyl" became erroneously corrupted to read "if you have diacetyl then you have process problems". Many breweries went on a campaign to rid their product of diacetyl. Despite wide variation in personal preference, diacetyl belongs in some styles. Makes it terribly difficult to judge beers objectively though. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 07:17:13 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Alcohol Metabolism I'm far, far away from any reference material and therefore running on raw memory here. But back in Number 1989 (March '96) I wrote: A few comments on the caloric content of alcohol. Alcohol is metabolized by oxidation back to the acetaldehyde from which it came using the same enzyme: alcohol dehydrogenase, but its done in the cytosol of your liver cells instead of in yeast cells (and the ADH is different). Actually the gastric mucosa contain some ADH (more in men than in women which is why the bioavailability of ethanol in women is higher than in men, a fact which has been exploited by men, but not gentlemen such as your writer, since time immemorial). The acetaldehyde is further oxidzed to acetyl (this is a noun, remember) by another enzyme, aldehyde dehydrogenase, in the mitochondria. Acetaldehyde in a nasty thing (even if it does have that pleasant apple odor) in your body and is responsible for much of the distress of hangover. The stuff that your grandmother snuck into your gramdfather's coffee to control his drinking (disulfiram) blocks the action of aldhehyde dehydrogenase thus allowing acetaldehyde to pool. Some orientals are genetically deficient with respect to this enzyme which is why many of them can't drink. The acetyl quickly joins up with coenzyme A to form acetyl-CoA which can either go into fatty acid or cholesterol synthesis pathways or enter the Krebs cycle to udergo oxidation to CO2 and water. In this latter case, all the caloric energy of the alcohol is converted to ATP just as if the acetate came from pyruvic acid which is the usual source (from normal glycolysis). The other pathways are associated with the "fatty liver" and modified levels of triacylglycerols in the blood of users of alcohol (the increases HDL/LDL ratio in moderate drinkers is thought to be a cause of increased longevity by some). The carbon of consumed alcohol is NOT available for glcuoneogenesis or conversion to glycogen thus the calories of alcohol are often referred to as "empty calories" but they are available as a source of energy via respiration. There are, of course, lots of problems associated with the metabolism of alcohol, may of them due to the presence of excess quantities of NADH (the product of the oxidation steps) in the system. There are also other means by which alcohol is eliminated from the body (sweat, urine, breath, MEOS). I have described the major one. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:45:47 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Burradoo Dreaming There has been much debate regarding the incidence and levels of diacetal in Bohemian lagers, but finally I can provide photographic evidence, which will prove beyond doubt, that it does exist. While I have a scientific paper in preparation (it is currently being subjected to the peer review process), an abstract is available at http://oz.craftbrewer.org/pivo.jpeg This photo clearly shows Wes Smith (on the right) demonstrating how much diacetal he has perceived in the sample. An obviously gobsmaked Captain Yates looks on in awe from the left. While the mysterious and sceptical Dr X is caught in the middle. I, unfortunately, are not in the picture, as I have fainted clear away for the reviews that they gave my beers - "No diacetal at all due to an inncorrect sparge technique" was the unaminous opinion. Stay tuned for the full story. David Lamotte Still recovering in Newcastle, NSW Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 04:37:35 -0800 (PST) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Weld Free Kits Wayne Holder writes: "I can't speak for the chrome plated brass weld-free kits that advise against overtightening, but I can give you the address for my affordable all stainless kit. http://www.zymico.com/weld-b-gone " Hell Zymie Didn't even try to patronize me with free shipping... Thus proving to us that here on the HBD there is a little bit of Lynne and Jack in all of us! Now I own some weld be gones and I own some bazooka screens.. There are no finer lurking about the retail market... Plus they are advertised for over tightening... IT IS THE AMERICAN WAY AFTERALL!!! C'ya! -Skotrat Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:08:22 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: California V (Whitelabs) I am pleased with the WhiteLabs California V Ale yeast. I used it in 3 successive batches (all-grain) and all have worked well so far. For the first batch ( a Steam Beer) I pitched the vial directly into a 1.048 wort and it took off within a couple of hours, dropping the gravity to 1.013 at the time of bottling. For the second batch (California Porter) I saved the slurry from the above batch, and pitched it the day following secondary of the Steam Beer. It took off real quick (first hour) and dropped an OG of 1.047 to 1.018. For the third, and final use of this slurry: I collected 3/4 of a half gallon growler full of real thick slurry. Pitched it (next day) last night onto a Valentine Pale Ale {I know,...I should have gone darker, perhaps, but wanted to see what would happen...ie trying to go from a porter to a pale ale with the slurry..} OG was 1.064 and it took off literally within 5 minutes! I think that this Platinum series "California V" is good stuff...but am not brave enough to try it a 4th time.... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:14:45 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: some thoughts on secondary-ing I am a true believer in the value of using a secondary fermenter. It really helps to clarify ones brews a lot. However, is there really any reason to secondary a stout, or Porter, or Hefe ...IF you are sure that the gravity has dropped sufficiently? I mean, it is going to be cloudy anyway...or dark, so ...unless we want less yeast on the bottom of the bottle...mmmm...maybe less potential "bite"??....is/are there reason/s to secondary dark or intentionally cloudy brews? Any thoughts on this? .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:20:00 -0500 From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com Subject: Oxyclean & PBW I have had similar luck with Oxyclean. It seems to have similar cleaning properties and reacts the same as PBW from Five star. I know Oxyclean is advertised as a stain remover, but it cleans glassware, keg parts and hoses just as well as PBW. I was wondering if the two are chemically similar or possibly the same. Oxyclean is a heck of alot cheaper. While here, has anyone used Saniclean, the non-foaming version of Star San? I liked the Star San but didn't like how it foamed up. Jason Gorman RiverDog Brewery GR, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:15:59 -0500 From: Martin_Brungard at urscorp.com Subject: Re: dry hopping I tried dry hopping with plugs in a sack a few times. I never was satisfied with the results. I now add rehydrated pellet hops directly to secondary with no sack. The great thing with pellets is that they sink to the bottom and generally don't get sucked up when I rack to the bottling bucket. I have an outstanding American brown ale (blue ribbon last month at Big Bend Brewoff with scores of 43 from Masters-level BJCP judges) that was pellet dry hopped. There were a few hop particles in the bottom of a few bottles, but they generally stay with the yeast cake and do not affect the enjoyment of the finished beer. Another side effect of having the hop particles in the bottle may be that they may be continually dry hopping the beer in the bottle. I rehydrate my dry hops by putting them in a pint or so of hot water that has been boiled and allowed to cool to less than 170F. I'm hydrating in hot water to hopefully reduce the chance of infecting my beer with critters lurking on those hop pellets. I understand that 10 or 15 minutes at this temperature probably kills most critters. I also neutralize my tapwater's pH down to about 7 with a little lactic acid. I do this to reduce tannin extraction that may produce grassiness. In Tallahassee, it takes 7 drops per gallon to drop the tap water's pH to 7. You have to experiment to find out what that lactic amount is for your local water source. Try pellets next time, they generally remain fresher through the course of handling and storage and I think they can contribute more per ounce than plugs or whole. I'll probably not go back. Martin Brungard Tallahassee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:37:24 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Mash tuns John Peed makes an interesting observation: >...makes me wonder why people want to spend three times as much >on a round cooler and at least four times as much on a false bottom. Is it >just a matter of simplicity (making a slotted manifold is a bit of work if >you don't have access to a band saw), or is there some inherent or perceived >benefit to brewing in the round? You make a good observation. I'll put my money on percieved benefits. I started with a 5 gallon round Rubbermaid cooler with a square copper manifold. It woked fine, but that square peg in the round hole didn't sit well with me mentally. System efficiency dropped, but only in my mind. Then I moved up to a 13 gallon rectangular. Not because I wanted to, but because I couldn't find the 10 gallon round, plus it cost too damn much anyway. Well at least my mental efficiency is back up since both the manifold and the cooler are rectangular now. But I still thought my set-up was inferior. Would my beer taste square instead of being well-rounded and smooth like the other guy's? I needed that round cooler!!! After doing a number of brews and finding out that my square beer fits just as easily in a cylindrical bottle or keg, I came to the following conclusions. Things I love about my rectangular cooler: #1 - It's green - ok that doesn't count. #2 - I use the copper manifold with 2 rows of holes (not slots) drilled 180 deg apart. The holes face the walls of the tun. You can beat the crap out of a copper manifold and it will not leak, buckle or set your mash. #3 - When doughing in or fiddling with the mash in any way, the open surface area is larger allowing easier access. It's got those double doors on it that open to the side vs being hinged on the back. The doors can be removed as well. #4 - The grain bed is not as deep which I think contributes to never having had a set mash. #5 - COST - for both the container and the manifold. #6 - In an emergency it can be filled with ice and bottles of beer. The only real drawback I could see to my rectangular cooler is the surface area:volume ratio. I believe that a cylinder has a smaller SA:V ratio and would therfore retain heat better - especially with the lid open. As to efficiency I do not believe that there is any */significant/* difference between square/rectangular vs. round OR manifold vs. false bottom (when optimized). Even my designs for the future HERMS system currently include a copper manifold in a sanke keg. But */this/* manifold will be round ;-) > Carpe cerevisiae! > > Glen A. Pannicke > > glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net > 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD > "Designs which work well on paper rarely do so in actual practice" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:18:34 -0500 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability Steve Alexander cites a test mash and then states, >>The implication is that beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C in this case.<< A bad conclusion because Alpha amylase does create fermentables, but I'll run with it... I've been saying this quite a bit during previous discussions on mash-out. I was always rebuffed with the comment that BA was for the most part entirely denatured by the time you reach mash out. Especially since in this case mash out wasn't reached till after 100 minutes, not counting the protein rest (during which there was assuredly denaturing). So now the wind blows a different direction and our conclusions are all different. All along I had mentioned this cited test was not a good experiment to substantiate the value of mash out on fermentability and yield. I have to call this a test since there is no control and doesn't qualify as an experiment. Not many conclusions can be drawn, only that in this case here is what happened. Steve_did_say >>in this case<<. To put another fly in the ointment: Now that we are accepting that >>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<< Why does a high temperature rest even produce a less fermentable wort? afterall BA activity is increasing monotonically with increasing temperature, with >>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<< this would make a wort increasingly fermentable at higher mash temperatures not less fermentable. That's rhetorical read on. Going back 3 digests to 3554 Steve stated, >>You've also increased it's rate of denaturation by a factor of 4 or 6 or so, which is a lot, but nearly balances the increased activity and substrate factors. << Looking back at denaturing times it seems like the factor of increasing denaturation is 1/4 or 1/3 ( at +10 F) which would not come close to balancing the substrate factors ( dextrins created by Alpha amylase) that are increasing about 41% per 10 degree F rise. The bottom line? If you were to mash in at 154 F for 1 hour and not mash out; during the 30 or 40 minute lautering the fermentability of the wort at the end of the mash step _will_ change before you are done lautering. Afterall, >>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<<; so the BA is there and still working. Mashing out _will_keep the fermentability closer to it's value at situation you make adjustments for this drift when you decide, "hmmm 154 wasn't hot enough, I wanted more maltiness. I'll kick it up to 156 next time." Stay alert, we need more lerts, N.P. Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:19:49 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: alternative St Paddy's brew In a private email, a brewer asked: >I saw your recipe on HBD and would like to make it, but I am an extract >brewer, and a novice. I was wondering if you might have a similar recipe for >us extract guys that you could post on HBD? That's a toughie, since part of the "American-ness" of the beer is its use of corn (maize) adjunct. It's the same problem we have when asked for an extract version of Classic American Pilsner (CAP). I suppose the best thing would be to use a pale extract, some rice syrup, and crystal and chocolate. If you are up to a mini-mash, you could mash the corn and barley flakes with an equal amount of malt, plus the crystal and chocolate (here, 6-row would be best for its very high enzyme levels). Or, you could just use an amber malt extract and a little corn sugar (10%?). to lighten the malt. Or just do all malt. Williams brewing has an American Red extract that looks like a promising candidate. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:22:28 -0600 From: Jeremy Lakey <Jeremy at imc2.com> Subject: killed yeast question last night, i was in a bit of a hurry and pitched in the yeast at 85-90f degrees... it's White Labs Pitchable Hefeweizen yeast.. I thought it'd be a bit warm, but shouldn't kill it.. Well, 12 hours later nothing... not even positive pressure.. My question is this, the wort has cooled now to around 78f, can i pitch some more yeast with out any trouble? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:47:52 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Post for The Ozzies/Anti-Seize Hi All, Recently, I toured an electronics (computers, televisions, phone equipment and the like) recycling facility. It's where all our "old" Neanderthal computer equipment (hopefully) goes. You know, ancient stuff that's been around like four years or so. Anyway, I'm minding my own business when I spy a Gaylord box of video tapes. I pick up one totally at random and begin to look at the label on it. Wouldn't you know, it was about BEER. I took it home as a momento of the tour. By the title, I figured it was an industry tape. So... last night, I popped it in the VCR (you know, those antiquated things that will also be thrown out soon). I'm sure the Ozzies will know all about CUB. The tape was of an industry presentation to beer distributors in Oz. Several CUB officials were shown coming out to the podium to spout off about how great their new product is--Cold. "There's nothing fresher than a coldie." For those not familiar with what a Coldie is, it's the Ozzie counterpart to MGD--cold ultra-filtered, non-pasteurized. It's described as a "bitter", although I wonder if it really is. It seems that everything, if it is to sell in Oz, needs to be called a "bitter". It was very interesting to watch as brewery officials gave the inside scoop concerning the "revolutionary" brewing process that would give CUB the one-up on the competition. The presentation went on to describe marketing strategies, packaging presentation, product branding, point of sale promotion, CUB clothing, TV advertizing, etc. It was a very interesting inside look at how a large brewing concern develops and markets a product. That video presentation has me so hyped that I'll just do anything to get my hands wrapped around a Coldie. "Must have Coldie, must have Coldie, now. Loosing my will to ..." The only problem is I've never seen any stateside. Now for something homebrew related... Recently, I installed a bi-metallic dial thermometer on my mash tun. It's screwed into a half union welded to a converted Sanke. I wrapped some teflon tape on the male threds and threaded it into the union with a wrench. My intention was to screw it in until it was right side up. You know, so the numbers and the logo on the dial were easily readable without having to tilt your head one way or the other. It would make it look real cool to see that TREND logo right side up and everything. As things were going along, it began to tighten. I needed only another half turn to get it right side up. Of couse, I kept going. It stopped turning short of my goal. No problem, I'll just back it off a bit. Nothing doing, it was stuck big time. I even broke my 7/8 in. open-end wrench in the attempt. So, I now have a dial that's upside down--PERMANENTLY. A friend recently gave me some food grade anti-seize (a bit late now). I know that stainless to stainless interface can gaul. This must be a textbook example. My question to the group is regarding this food grade anti-seize. Has anyone ever used any? It is Okay to use for brewing applications? Heat limits? Will it do any harm? Will it ruin head retention? It was given to me in a 35mm film canister, so I don't have orignal packaging. It is white in color and has the consistency of grease. It has very little odor. TIA, Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:31:41 -0500 From: "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> Subject: sanitation technique questions I was wondering how many of us use a bathtub to do most of our sanitizing. Ever since I started brewing almost 5 years ago I've been using a bathtub for all the sanitizing vessels (fill, stand, drain) on brew day, even though my brew site has switched from the kitchen to the outdoors. Does anyone else do this? How does everyone dispose of the sanitizer if you brew outdoors (I don't think dumping iodophor, bleach, etc. on the driveway/lawn is such a good idea!)? I'm hoping to get some new ideas on how to streamline the brewing process. Thanks! Oh- another quick question - does everybody just allow sanitized items to drip dry or do people use paper towels (or something else) to dry vessels, instruments, etc.? Benjy rdbedwards at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:01:26 -0800 From: "John W. Myer" <myer at apple.com> Subject: Hopback Design Questions I am a first time poster, but have been reading the HBD postings for about a month. I am building a RIMS system and am now at the point of adding a hopback to my system. From the kettle, I will be pumping the wort slowly from the kettle and into the hopback which is then connected to my counterflow chiller. The hopback is: 1. 16" long stainless steel pipe sitting vertically 2. 3 1/2" diameter 3. one end capped and the other end is also capped but has a 2" threaded brass plug 4. 1 " from the bottom end is a 1/2" female ss pipe fitting || 2" brass plug with inlet from pump which is attached to kettle outlet _+ +_ | || |= extra outlet - plugged | || | | || | | || | {{ My sorry attempt at an ascii illustration}} | || | | || | | || | | || |= outlet to cf chiller - -------- The 2" brass plug has a 1/2 ' brass inlet pumbed into it. I am planning on inserting a brass screen filter (cylindical in shape) through the 2" opening for the ength of the pipe. The hops will be placed in the middle of the filter and the hot wort will enter through the inlet at the top and exit through the outlet at the bottom. Questions to which I would love to have responses: 1. Hop Contact Time -- What flow rate throught the hopback should I shoot for to get the best hop aroma characteristics? Gravity flow into the hopback/cf chiller to the fermentor would be too slow, bu t I am assuming that full pump speed would be too fast . 2. Hop Filter Size -- My kettle is 13.3 gal and my batch size will be 10 gal. How big should I design the brass screen filter which will contain the whole hops. My max would be 2 1/4" dia by 16 inches which would be 64 of a total 154 cu inches in the vessel. 3. Filter Mesh -- What filter mesh would be best: 40, 60 80 100, other? There should be little cold break at this time since the wort is still at boiling temp. Any ideas. 4. Different Approach -- Or -- Would it better to switch the inlet and outlet and put the hops in the larger volume outside of the filter? Any thoughts? I know that the best answer to the above is to experiment, but hopefully someone has "been here / done this" already. BTW - my system has lots of gadgets and when I saw this ss vessel for $20, I could not help myself. I HAD to add thehopback. Thanks in advance, John Myer - a newbie to the group Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:09:04 -0800 From: Chad Petersen <Chad.Petersen at wwu.edu> Subject: Graham Phil, That was a brilliant set of tricks you played on Graham and I laughed most heartily. I for one am glad I am not on your Fecal Roster. Father Chad Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:28:57 -0600 From: "Sweeney, David" <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: Screen vs. Screen > I purchased a Sabco (NAJASCYYY) false bottom a year ago. It's the > stainless jobbie split in half with hinges and a hole for a dip-tube. It > fits in the bottom of a converted keg perfectly. I've been very happy > with it, using it primarily as a hop catcher in my boiler. > > In my converted Sanke keg RIMS system, I've been using a homemade manifold > out of SS sheathing that is similar to the EasyMasher(R) (NAYYY). My RIMS > uses a centered dip-tube with a magnetic driven pump, vertical heating > manifold and a reverse-star return manifold ala C.D. Pritchard. I haven't > been happy with the flowrate of my homemade exit manifold, and so shopped > around for another false bottom. The Sabco FB is kindof a cadillac ($69 + > shipping). I came across a 10" stainless screen in the Beer, Beer & More > Beer (NAYYY) catalog for $19 so I thought I would try it. > > So now, I have a 15" Sabco hinged FB and a 10" SS screen from B3. My kegs > have a curved bottom. The foundation water under the Sabco is about 0.5 > USgal, while the volume under the 10" screen should be about 1 USpint. > Here's the question: > > Should I used the 10" screen in my RIMS (for recirculation), or in the > boiler (to catch hop flowers)? Why? > > David Sweeney > Texas A&M University > david at studentlife.tamu.edu > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:30:28 -0500 From: "Moyer, Douglas (IndSys, SalemVA)" <Douglas.Moyer at indsys.ge.com> Subject: Beer in Hong Kong? Drinkers, I will be in Hong Kong next week for the TOC Asia 2001. Any decent beer? Any recommendations on where to get a good pint? I will be staying at the Renaissance Harbor View, arriving Monday, leaving Friday morning. Brew on! Doug Moyer Salem, VA Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:29:43 -0600 From: "Sweeney, David" <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: Irony Ironic, isn't it, that one of the most prolific, detailed, verbose, science-minded, exact contributors to the HBD has a signature consisting of 2 characters. I think I'll start doing that. -D PS Don't change a thing, Steve. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:32:14 +1100 From: scott morgan <scott.morgan at aus.sun.com> Subject: The Graham Experiment Dont fall for Phils trickery folks...its but a ploy by Phil to drag Graham back onto the HBD. Dave is innocent and this is all sham, trickery and fraud. Dave created the pond in which we all play...Phil knows what will happen if joins into the OZ-CB, he will no longer be the sole village idiot but just one of many who are also subscribed to the oz-cb. In Japan it is called the Aussie Koala bear syndrome. You see, usually in Oz we have lots of koala's, and run over them occasionally for sport. But take one to Japan and the flea-bitten beast is never put down. Constantly cuddled and admired the ego grows....just like our Phil. "He packed up his bat and ball, announcing he no longer wanted to be a small fish in a big pond, but rather a big fish in a little pond! " as phil knows this pond is getting bigger everyday and we are just rolling along. As well, some of these fella's are from kiwi and Sth African ranks; the "stubbies and thongs" dress code is only exclusive in Burradoo it seems. "So now he stands at the pulpit in front of a huddled group of Aussie brewers and rants and raves and bullshytes to them as he once did in here." You see, like any coach he gets passionate about the game. I thought you would understand this Phil, especially with Mardi Gra coming up and you being the coach of the Ansett Trolley Dolly MArching Team. (I hope the Bush Tucker Man theme you choose works well...glistening bodies in khaki...cant wait) Pure passion is what it is about. Well hot diggity damm...no beer related comment at all. Thats 4 posts in a row...but who is counting right! scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:45:13 -0600 From: "Sweeney, David" <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: RE: HBD on Avantgo I, too, received the size error when I defined the web page. "Size Limit Exceeded. The requested file's size is too large to be sent to this device. FYI, I'm using a Palm IIIx with 4MB RAM. Any other thoughts? David Sweeney Texas A&M University david at studentlife.tamu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:10:47 -0800 (PST) From: Drew Beechum <Drew.Beechum at disney.com> Subject: 2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Competition Hello Brewers, This is the formal announcement of the 2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Competition. Further information and entry forms can be found on our website http://www.maltosefalcons.com/. All beer classes will be accepted as listed in the Maltose Falcons 2001 Style Guideline form. While based closely on the current BJCP guidelines there are some class differences. Of special note to any cider makers, we've separated ciders from meads and sake. We hope this change allows our cider entries a more fair evaluation. Thank you, Drew Beechum Maltose Falcons Public Relations/Webmaster For more information visit - http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ NOTICE OF COMPETITION 2001 Mayfaire Regional Homebrewed Beer Competition (AHA and BJCP Sanctioned) Sponsored by: The Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society Results will be used in the Sierra Nevada Homebrewer Of The Year Contest Entry Deadline: Entries, forms, and fees are due between March 1 - March 20, 2001 Change for this year: Recipes will be optional, not required Entry Fee: $6.00 per entry, check or money order only, payable to the Maltose Falcons Entry Format : 3 - 10-16 oz. brown or green bottles, clean of labels and distingushing marks (Barleywines and Meads are accepted in 7oz and above). Walk-in (Shop Closed on Weds.) or send prepaid to: The Maltose Falcons c/o The Home Wine, Beer and Cheese Making Shop 22836 Ventura Blvd. #2 Woodland Hills, CA 91364 Judging: Saturday, April 7, 2001, St. Martin's Church 7136 Winnetka Canoga Park, CA Awards Ceremony: At the Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Festival, Saturday, April 21, 2001 AWARDS Best of Show: "The Bird", a statuette of the Maltose Falcon "Hashell Dammit" First, Second, and Third Place ribbons may be awarded in each beer style Class, Subject to the decisions of the judges. All judges decisions are final. Check our website for more information : http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ For further information, or entry forms, contact John Aitchison, Competition Organizer Email: john.aitchison at homebeer.com Phone : 818-886-3568 For Judging information, contact Tom Wolf Email: Tom at WolfEmail.com Phone : 661-296-0872 For Stewarding information, contact Diana Utech Email: dutech at netscape.net Phone : 310-398-2558 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:24:40 -0500 From: "Mike Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: Re: Millennium Ale Colin Marshall <byoah at argay.com.au> is looking for a Dominion Millennium Ale clone. I don't have a recipe, but I did get this information off their website. www.olddomonion.com Go to "Brewery" , "seasonals". "Dominion Millennium is a very strong ale brewed in the English Barley Wine style. The bottle contains a slight sediment because some fermentation occurs in the bottle. This bottle conditioning allows the beer to improve over time. We use only imported English malts and pure Virginia honey. The distinct hopping includes Mount Hood, Perle and Liberty hops in the kettle. The beer is generously dry-hopped with English Kent Goldings (a half pound per barrel) to provide an earthy bouquet. Technical notes: Starting Gravity 1.100 or 25 degrees Balling. Bitterness Units: 100. Sold in 12 ounce bottles and in kegs. Alcohol by volume 10.4%." They use their house strain of Wyeast 1056 (Chico, Sierra Nevada) mostly. There is a section on the website for directing questions to the brewery. I would recommend a email to the brewmaster for some homebrewing hints to duplicate it. This brewery has been producing some world class brews. Michael Jackson gives them mention in "Ultimate Beer". As I type this, I am sipping a Millenium bottled Feb 1998. The flavor from the smoked malt is just mellowing out. This stuff is definitely meant to be "laid down" for several years. As a starting point, unless you can get some info from the Brewmaster, I would use my favorite barleywine recipe, substitute the hops and yeast noted above, and add peat smoked malt and honey to taste. Try to get an idea of how strong your smoked malt is. They vary by brand and age. I bet you will come pretty close to the original. The smoked malt almost overpowers other aspects of the ale for a couple years, if you lilghten-up on the smoked malt, it might be more drinkable sooner. Hope this helps Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley, VA Buddy you're an old man poor man Pleadin' with your eyes gonna make you some beer some day You got mud on your face You big disgrace Somebody better put you back in your place WE Will, We Will, Rock You Brian May/Freddy Mercury (Queen) (listen to the live version, I swear that's what he says) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:19:30 EST From: WilfPhoenix at aol.com Subject: Re:beer in Ireland(February 13, 2001) from Wilf Phoenix Manchester UK...wilfphoenix at aol.com well Nathan Tell your friends to stick to Guinness_its the real original irish stout - some pubs sell it in bottles thats nice ,the draught is now always "chilled" which is still something for all us homebrewers to aim at Regards - Wilf Phoenix Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:11:57 -0600 From: "elvira toews" <etoews1 at home.com> Subject: Q. for Steve Alexander on overnight mashing Steve: Your answers to a range of questions on mash-outs etc. make sense to this engineer. I have to deal with people who believe that 121C is a magic temperature that is both necessary and sufficient for sterility, even when we are trying to kill a pure culture of an organism that dies after a few minutes at 60C, so I feel kinship with anyone who gets cranky about dogma as a substitute for understanding. I use overnight mashing because it makes brewing fit my life. I mash in or boost to the traditional temperatures (151F for high attenuation, 156F for low attenuation). When I mash out the next morning the temperature is around 120-130F. I usually keep my OG low, 1044 is typical. I would like to know what you think about: 1) what is a better guide to sweetness and mouth feel - FG or %attenuation? In other words, if my beer finishes at 1011, would it taste more like a beer with 1055OG/1011FG or like 1055OG/1014FG? 2) should I mash in a few degrees hotter to compensate for the lack of temperature maintenance? I confess that I have never dragged my butt out of bed at 1:00 a.m. to see what the temperature is after 2 hours. Sean Richens srichens at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 14:59:40 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Burradoo Apology No, not from Phil, but from me. I have discovered that you cannot access the photo using the URL in my previous post. You will need to go to the oz Craftbrewer site and use the link on the 'News & Events' page. Sorry for any confusion or dissapointment. David Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:41:12 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Gott Coolers I have been looking for a Gott cooler to use for a Mash Tun for a couple of weeks. I have found several Rubbermaid coolers at K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Lowes, etc. The question I have is, are all Rubbermaid coolers Gott coolers? I realize that Rubbermaid bought out Gott back around 88 or 89. The coolers I have found all look like the pictures I have seen of Gott coolers (bright orange cylindrical form, with screw on white top), but do not specifically state they are for cold and HOT liquid. They only state that they are for cold liquid. Will these coolers work for hot liquid? Or, are there two different product lines and I have found the wrong one? Thanks Steven - Ironhead Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:49:19 -0800 (PST) From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com> Subject: dunkelweizen color I've been trying to put together a dunkel weizen recipe, but am having trouble finding a suitable source of color. My base recipe is 2lbs 6-row 5lbs wheat malt 2lbs munich dark It seems that munich dark is the historical grain of choice for adding color, but at 15L, I would need to add so much that my OG would be out of acceptable range. I was thinking about adding 1/4 lb. black patent malt to bring the color up, but am concerned about any flavor it would impart that wouldn't be appropriate for the style. Dark wheat malt isn't available from my preferred vendor, if that was a possibility. Any suggestions on getting the color there in a manner that's true to the style? Feel free to hack the recipe if I'm going about it all wrong. - --rama Return to table of contents
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