HOMEBREW Digest #3567 Tue 27 February 2001

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  Re: Zinc in your Wort ("patrick finerty jr.")
  Re: Yates/Pivo pilsner (David Lamotte)
  Conical fermenter procedures ("Lou King")
  Oxygen in the mash and starch conversion (drinker)
  RIMS problem ("Richard Sieben")
  RE: Dark malts in Schwarzbier ("John B. Doherty")
  Beer in/near Indianapolis ("james suchy")
  Copper in Copper chillers (I/T)" <stjones at eastman.com>
  How to clean counterflow chiller? ("R.M. Opalko")
  North Tampa area (Mjbrewit)
  Calibrating Thermometers ("Pete Calinski")
  using a pump for recirculating on a direct-fired tun (Marc Sedam)
  'Lectric Elements ("The Holders")
  Cal thermometers ("Peed, John")
  RIMS solved! ("Matt Hollingsworth")
  cylindroconical advantages ("Steven M. Claussen")
  Son of underattenuation blues (Paul Shick)
  Re: enzymes in malt extract (Jeff Renner)
  Stone Beer ("Hill, Steve")
  lonely phil.... (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  Irish dry stout profiles ("Dave Sapsis")
  Re.: RIMS Problem ("elvira toews")
  Hops: Pellets vs. Cakes ("Mr. Shane A. Saylor")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 00:25:35 -0500 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: Zinc in your Wort can someone please tell me what an acceptable final conc of Zn is in wort? i'll do the expt with two 5 gal carboys (+Zn and no Zn added) with a couple of strains and report the results. my current plan is to simply add the Zn to the primary so that i avoid any ppt that may occur during the boil. it should be noted that i'm pitching 2 L yeast grown in the lab under very good yeast growth conditions (YPD media i continually supplement with a mixture of glucose and maltose) and which are then collected by centrifugation, resuspended in an LME solution and added to the wort. i've never had an attenuation problem but i have had the yeast really slow down and take several days to drop a couple of points off the gravity, adding perhaps 2-3 days to the fermenation process. it would be nice if the curve were to be more linear instead of exponential. patrick in Toronto Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:20:41 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Yates/Pivo pilsner Sensing the lack of decent brewing content in recent digests, Phil has risen to the occasion and reported on the Yates/Pivo pilsner? Phils assessment as "a most enjoyable drop" does not surprise me at all, as while I wasn't present at its birth, I was there for the christening. Went down very well indeed. Phil, as it has been rated as "a most enjoyable beer" by the Burradoo tastebuds is there any chance that you could post the recipe ? And how did the differences between the two yeast varieties end up. And no, you are not the only Aussie left on the HBD. The rest of us are watching and waiting for some relevant brewing related information before we chime in. Remember, we all took the 'content without malice' oath that you distributed. It is just that we don't see zinc, fightin' Canucks and Florida brewpubs as being particularly relevant to OUR brewing. David Lamotte Recently returned to Newcastle N.S.W. for Burradoo with an empty keg. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:23:04 -0500 From: "Lou King" <lking at pobox.com> Subject: Conical fermenter procedures I am using my new conical fermenter for the first time. I realize if I open the bottom port to let the trub out, it will pull the solution out of my fermentation lock. I'm thinking of pulling out the little upsidedown cup from the fermentation lock and proceeding. If you have a conical fermenter, what do you do for this? Any other suggestions about it's use? Private email is preferred. Lou Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 08:16:56 -0500 From: drinker at med.unc.edu Subject: Oxygen in the mash and starch conversion Hello, Can anyone please tell me where the oxygen atoms come from which are needed to fill up the empty valences every time a (1-4) glucose-glucose bond is broken? I've looked in my sources and could not find the subject addressed anywhere. Thanks, David Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:49:04 -0600 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: RIMS problem Matt is having problems with his CompUBrew: sorry Matt, I have never noted any grain astringency, even when I oversparged a bit on a very delicate (read lite) beer. In fact that beer came out flawless. As to a few grain husks coming through, well it seems to happen and has not caused me any problem, they get filtered out in the boilingkettle when I drain off through the hop bed, which acts as a hot break filter anyway. Did you leave the mash paddle in? I found that if you take it out the wort will preferentially flow down the hole in the middle that is the axis point for the paddle, so leave it in when you sparge. Also the hole passes a lot more grains! Do you take the heating element out after each brew to brush it off? If you don't the protiens can bake on in the next brew and impart a burnt flavor. Maybe you are using a different batch of grains than you were before that lend themselves to a more astringent flavor, not that I have ever observed this happening. Finally, maybe your heat sensor is out of calibration, have you taken it out lately to clean it? you could get a buildup of some sort around it and it may delay the heat transfer to it so it lags in it's readings. This may be causing your mashout temperature to go too high and maybe the astringency is coming into play at that point. Call ABT and ask them for the instructions to calibrate the system. I found mine to be reading 4 degrees too low on the hot end at one point, but that was because they had put one together for me without the normal calibration time. I spent the better part of an hour recalibrating it and it seems to be right on the mark now. Note my new e-mail addy is: sier1 at msn.com you might have been trying me at my old work addy at Aerial, which no longer exists sadly enough. hope this helps you out, Rich Sieben Island Lake, IL northwest nowhere from chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 05:57:46 -0800 (PST) From: "John B. Doherty" <dohertybrewing at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Dark malts in Schwarzbier Dave, Sorry this is a week after your original post, but I've gotten behind _again_ on my HBD. I just brewed a Schwarzbier a few months ago, and I'd be happy to share my recipe. After a honeymoon trip which included a few days in Munich, I felt inspired, so I brewed up a Helles, Dunkel, Maerzen and Schwarzbier. I did alot of background research on the Schwarz style, and found a great recipe onthe Weyermann website at http://www.weyermann.de/recipe6.html I planned ahead and made a special order with my local HB shop to get a pound of that Carafa III dehusked black malt. I think that malt really made the beer. The color came out black as night, yet the dark malt character was nicely subdued - not at all Stout or Porter like. Vaguely reminiscent of Kostritzer Schwarzbier, but I should really do a side by side sometime before the keg kicks. Never one to outright grab someone else's recipe, mine was: For 5.5 gallons DWC Pilsner Malt 6.5# Light Munich Malt 2# Dark Munich Malt 1# Carafa Special III 0.5# (added separately between b-Amylase & starch rest) Acid Rest 100F 15 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat Protein Rest 130F 30 minutes Pull first decoction 1st Decoction thick 1/3 158F 30 minutes boil 10 minutes Return to Main Mash b-Amylase Rest 142F 30 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat Starch Conversion 154F 60 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat Mash Out 168F 15 minutes Hopped it pretty lightly with Hersbrucker and Tettnanger. Fermented at 8C for 3 weeks with a big WY2308 slurry left over from the Munich Dunkel batch - (2 weeks primary in glass, 1 week secondary in glass) then slowly cooled to 0C over one week, racked to a corny and lagered 6 weeks. This beer just took 1st Place in Euro Dark Lagers at the Boston Homebrew Competition on 2/10/01 (the aforementioned Munich Dunkel took 3rd in the same category). I don't have the judges comments back yet, but as I said, the dark malt character is subdued and there's only the slightest hint of smokiness. If you close your eyes, you'd never guess this beer was as dark as it is just by tasting it. Its almost a "Schwarz-Pils" like I've seen reference to in some Czech breweries. Hope this helps. Cheers, -John Doherty =================================================== > RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca wrote: > >While we're on the topic of what malts to use to darken > >a dunkelweizen... what's the consensus on Schwarzbier? > > > >BJCP discusses "supplemented by a small amount of > >roasted malts for the dark color and subtle roast flavors". > >So how much and what variety do people tend to use. I > >used about 100g (4/5ths chocolate, 1/5 patent) in a 23L > >batch with a little (25g) of Special-B. The main grist was > >about 50% Munich. > > > >The flavour of the wort, post-boil, was about what I expected, > >but the colour was definately a little light. Not very black. > >More like dunkel in colour (translucent brown). > > > >Any thoughts? > >Dave > >Victoria, BC, Canada. > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:09:03 +0500 From: "james suchy" <grayling at provide.net> Subject: Beer in/near Indianapolis Hello All - I may have the opportunity to take a job in Indianapolis. Being that my current location is in Michigan, an incredible beer state(and very close to the center of the brewing universe), I must include the beer-worthiness of Indianapolis in my decision making process. I'd be interested in hearing about anything beer related from Indiana. Brew clubs, homebrew shops, brewpubs, festivals, anything else. I would hate to move the wife down there only to find out we have to come back because the beer scene is substandard! Cheers! Jim Suchy (very worried about Hoosier beer at 90 degrees, 21 miles Rennerian) http://www.provide.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:14:55 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (I/T)" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: Copper in Copper chillers Greetings, all. Dave Houseman (BTW, a very nice narrative on Irish stouts) asked why anyone would use copper tubing for the outer skin of a counterflow chiller. Here is my reason for doing so: I got together with two other brew club members, and we made 3 chillers. We bought a 60' coil of 3/4" ID tubing, and 3 25' coils of 3/8" ID tubing. It took very little time to build them (2 used garden hose fittings - I hard plumbed mine into my rack), and the cost was about $40 each. We could probably have split the 60' of 3/4" tubing to make 5 12 ft chillers instead of 3 20' chillers and they would have been just as effective, for around $25 each. One of my reasons for using copper on the outside was this: I sanitize my wort path (chiller, pump, output tubing) by running the boiling wort thru the chiller to the pump and back into the kettle for the last 10 minutes of the boil without any water in the area between the two coils. Then I turn on the chilling water and divert the output of the pump into my fermenter. With the boiling wort running thru it during the sanitation cycle, any place the inner line touched the outer line would have gotten a vinyl hose very hot, maybe hot enough to weaken it or even melt a hole in it. Also, mine is mounted under my boiler in the rack, close enough to the burner to be exposed to heat. I don't have to worry about that will the copper outer skin. I'm sure the Maxichiller and the Chillzilla are very good chillers, but I'm also sure that mine chills as well as either of them, and the cost was much lower. They are also very compact, but mine is about 18" in diameter. I wrapped it around a 1/2 bbl keg - I was too worried about kinking the 3/4" tubing to try to make the diameter any smaller. However, for a permanent mounting in my rack, it fits just fine. Another advantage is that they are only 3 coils high - something to consider when you don't have a lot of extra vertical space between your boiler and fermenter. Just my quarter's worth (inflation is a bitch). Steve Jones Johnson City, TN (5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian) http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:12:22 -0600 From: "R.M. Opalko" <opalko at ebicom.net> Subject: How to clean counterflow chiller? Howdy all, with the demise of deja.com I have been having trouble finding the good info I used to find in seconds. Anyhow, I have a 3-tier system that I use a counterflow chiller (25' of copper tubing inside of a garden hose) with. It works beautifully, almost too well sometimes. My question is, what is the best way to clean/sanitize the inside of the copper tubing? I know Dave Miller recommends a CIP system that includes a recirculating pump, but I don't have and don't forsee one in the future. So far what I have been doing is, after I'm done brewing, reusing the warm water runoff back into one of the kettles. I boil that water and run it back through the counterflow chiller. It clears out any gunk, but do I need to do more? I mean, it seems like boiling water should kill anything living in there? But do I need to re-sanitize before the next session? How? Cheers! Bob Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:34:33 EST From: Mjbrewit at aol.com Subject: North Tampa area Can anyone help me with good beer stores in the north Tampa area. I recently relocated and can't find much better than Becks and the like from Walgreens. ABC liquors has some goodies, but its all in the $7 range. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:03:21 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Calibrating Thermometers Jim Dunlap asked: >Do you have any refernece marterial on the topic. No, just experience. >I am really interested since I spent years mashing in about 5F over >what I thought until I used the boil/ice bath to calibrate. (By the Way all >the beers I made with inaccurate measurements were great). See text below about my view of temperature variations in the mash tun. >The glass ones have a liquid in it which should expand at a linear rate until it goes thru a >phase change. Assuming, for example, the diameter of the channel the liquid is expanding in is constant. I have a laboratory grade mercury thermometer that is traceable to the National Bureau of Standards or what ever they call themselves these days (is it NITS or something). It includes a calibration curve that at the point of greatest error (40C) has a correction value of 0.485C or nearly 1F. As I said this laboratory grade thermometer. >The metal probes, I believe are bi-metal and also have a linear thermal expansion coefficient. Probably, I can't say but, from experience, I can't adjust them so both the freezing and boiling settings satisfy me. They may be linear but the slope isn't right. So, as I said, I worry that the thermometer requires no correction in the range of mash temperatures. That is where it is most critical. I just have to say that I believe we are making too much of this. Absolute, homogeneous temperature doesn't exist in a mash tun. I have measured as much as an 8F temperature variation at various points in the mash tun and mine is well insulated. So what does this say, I believe that most of us (and even the professionals) mash across a temperature range. From top to bottom and perhaps from center to side, the temperature is different. As a result, different parts of the grain bed are mashing a different temperatures. The end result is a wort that contains a combination of mashes across a temperature range. So what, if you always use the same thermometer and always measure at the same location, you should get consistent results. If you make one brew and decide that the you would like to try it next time at a higher temperature, do it. Although you may think you have been mashing at 158F and want to try 162F, what you may actually be doing is taking a mash that ranged from 154F-162F to one that ranges 158F-166F. You will see a difference. After a few tries, you will settle in on a temperature setting that gives you the profile you like. A problem could arise in if you change the location of your temperature reading or your thermometer or you want to duplicate someone else's recipe. Bret Mayden asked: > How did you check accuracy in the middle of the range? What type of instrument is your >standard thermometer? Luckily, I acquired a lab. grade thermometer. >Do you adjust your mash procedures for errors from your thermometer? >If so, how do you do this? I calibrate my thermometers in a oil bath heated to the 150F-160F range as measured with my lab. thermometer. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY 0^45'49.1" North, 5^7'9.5" East of Jeff Renner. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:25:06 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: using a pump for recirculating on a direct-fired tun I really gave my pump a workout this time. I did an infusion to start off, and used a liquor/grist of 1.25qt/lb. Began at 149F and let it sit for 45 minutes. Then I opened the valves and started the pump. It only clogged once this time before running clear. Once I was certain that I was recirculating OK, I fired up the burner under the tun and kept the heat to the point that I could barely hear it yet could still see the blue flame. I kept waiting to smell burnt grains or something, but it never happened. I turned the burner off when the mash reached 154F in about 5 minutes, but let the pump run. After sitting for a bit, I re-lit the burner and turned the heat up a little higher to try and reach mash-out temps. Waited for the burning smell which never happened. Temps were raised to 179F in about 20 minutes. Turned the burner off and kept the pump running. 15 minutes later I turned the pump off, removed the mash-tun from the burner and replaced it with the kettle. Hooked up the recirculating tube to the kettle and turned the pump on again. Crystal clear wort started flowing into the kettle--no wuckas. I kept up the sparge until 9 gallons went into the tun. Towards the end of the sparge I could see the flow slowing, so I turned off all the valves and the pump. Collected slightly more than 13 gallons in the kettle. To clear out the mash tun I opened all the valves and turned the pump on full-bore. Less than one quart of liquid came out before the pump ran dry! My loss in the mash tun is about 1.5pts. I'm using a Stainless in Seattle 10" screen in the bottom of a converted keg. Once the boiling was over, I whirlpooled and hooked the pump up to my CF chiller. Ran off 10.5 gallons into two buckets in under 10 minutes using about 20 gallons of water. The only problem was towards the end of the run I got some hop leaves in the pump which clogged the outflow. It took some doing to clear it but it eventually worked. The other magical part of using the pump was that I could hook it up to recirculate PBW through my CF chiller, so I was certain the inside of the chiller was clean (ran the flow backwards through the chiller for better cleaning). Once the PBW wash was done I recirculated boiling water through the pump and chiller to ensure the PBW was rinsed off well. The recirc was from 2 gallons of boiling water on my stove, so at the end of this process my chiller and pump were both clean and sanitized. My fears in using the pump on a direct-fired tun were for naught. It rules and I'm psyched to keep using it. I can see no problem using the pump for multi-step mashes of thick grists. The best part of the day, though, was a comment from the person who I was brewing the beer for. She said "It seems like if you had another burner out here that the whole process would go much faster." I, of course, ran to the wife to tell her. Shockingly, she agreed. So now I get to buy another burner, but have to agree that I can never brew anything inside on the stove ever again. I greedily said "Of course, darling!" - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:25:54 -0800 From: "The Holders" <zymie at charter.net> Subject: 'Lectric Elements Marc Hawley says: "I am using regular hot water heater elements, not the low watt density types." I must be weird, cause I'm using cold water heating elements. Are the elements designed to heat hot water more efficient? Also, what tool is best to unloosen a hot water heater element? I use 4500W in my HLT, but have yet to set a stopwatch to it. Wayne Holder AKA Zymie Long Beach CA http://www.zymico.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:44:29 -0500 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: Cal thermometers Williams Brewing has a really good calibration thermometer (glass, mercury filled). See item E at http://www.williamsbrewing.com/rmometer.htm. Pricey and too fragile for every day use, but a damned good calibration instrument. Their Brewer's Thermometer (Item A) is a fine every day thermometer and it has a calibration nut that allows you to dial it in at a specific temp (150, for instance). They appear to be accurate to within a degree or so over the practical working range. I've found it very difficult to find thermometers that I can really trust. The calibration thermometer and calibratible workday thermometers solve that problem. Incidentally, I used to use a hand-held digital thermometer until I realized that holding it over the hot mash made the reading inaccurate because the electronics weren't temperature-compensated. Talk about useless! John Peed Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Feb 2001 11:44:26 -0800 From: "Matt Hollingsworth" <colorart at spiritone.com> Subject: RIMS solved! Hello! I received many, many responses with regards to my RIMS problem. The problem seems to have been discovered and solved!! Yay! Here's the tale of what went wrong, in the hopes that you can avoid the same folly. I bought my RIMS system from Steinbarts in Portland. It's from Advanced Brewing Technoology. I would heartily recommend their system. It's only the mash tun, so it's not as epensive as the multiple piece systems (mine was around $1000). Anyway, Steinbarts bought this system from someone and it was already assembled. They also lost the instruction book somewhere along the lines. Usually this system is put together by the customer (including assembling the heating element). There are evidently instructions that include how to clean the heating element. Being a dumb artist, I did NOT clean the heating element. I hadn't seen the instructions, didn't assemble the unit and didn't know any better. After brewing, I would run a hose over to the machine and run very fast water through the system to clean it out. Little did I know that syrupy wort was heating on the element and drying on there. I didn't even know that the heating element was removable. The good people at ABT told me what was wrong immediately when contacted. They're also sending me a cleaning kit free of charge (as well as their instruction sheet). The system is pretty self explanatory, so I had luck brewing with it until the gunk built up on the element. I removed the element today, and it was indeed totally coated with dried wort. Smelling it recalled the husky, kinda almost peat malt kinda smell and taste that had been in my beers for the last few batches. Foul. So, after posting to a number of places, my problem was solved within 24 hours. I should have asked for help sooner. I didn't because I thought the problem was one of the normal things, like oversparging, pH or overly crushed grains. The lesson here, when in doubt, ask your brewing buddies to help troubleshoot. If nothing else, it'll give you multiple brains crunching your problem. My thanks go out to everyone who helped to think this thing through. Another side benefit of this problem was that it caused an overview of my technique and a tightening up of standards. Even if I did ruin 6 or so batches, my glass is still half full of homebrew! Cheers! -Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:53:30 -0800 From: "Steven M. Claussen" <sclaussen at mail.kindercare.com> Subject: cylindroconical advantages In HBD #3566, Steve Alexander wrote: >A sub-15gal cylindroconical owner and his money are soon parted. Seems a >terribly expensive way to harvest yeast, and the principles of large CC >fermenter that improve fermentation performance don't apply on the smaller >scale. Spoken like a guy who doesn't own one! I've had a 12.2 gallon cylindroconical for about two years. In addition to making yeast harvesting WAY easier, efficient and less messy, I can think of at least the following advantages: 1) trub removal with the flick of a valve 2) easy access through huge top opening for cleaning, etc. 3) the ability to safely transfer to cornies using CO2 pressure 4) no need to use a secondary (if you believe in that sort of thing) 5) side port makes sediment free transfers easy 6) stainless steel, in addition to looking really cool, is easy to clean and is extremely durable. 7) less racking and cleaning = more time to drink -Steve Claussen in PDX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:03:39 -0500 From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu> Subject: Son of underattenuation blues Hello all, Again, my thanks to all who proposed solutions to my incomplete fermentation woes. I calibrated one of my thermometers yesterday, finding that it was exactly right at the water boiling point, so my problem doesn't seem to be tied to mash temperatures. I'm leaning more toward the zinc shortage theory, because of some notes from Steve Alexxander and Nathan Kanous. Initially, this seemed unlikely, because my new house uses the same water source (even the same water mains) as the old house, where I had no problems with underattenuation. However, I've since realized that the old house had a fair amount of galvanized plumbing, where the new house has almost all copper piping. It could be that the galvanized pipes added very small amounts of zinc to the water, but the copper does not. If the zinc levels are right at the edge, as far as yeast requirements, even such a small reduction might be causing my problems. I plan to add about 15-20mg of zinc chloride to my next batch, just to see if this might be it. Of course, with my crude weighing capabilities, this will be a real crap shoot, but we'll see. Any recommendations for zinc chloride sources would be appreciated. So far, the health food stores don't seem to have it. If Jethro can arrange for a shipment of servomyces, that would certainly be much appreciated. Paul Shick Contemplating trace minerals in Cleveland Hts, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:03:43 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: enzymes in malt extract The Man From Plaid <pbabcock at hbd.org> wrote: >Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> writes: > >> Anyhoo, there was mention in the article that Alexander's >> Extracts have enzymic activity? Is this right? I can see where >> it would be possible based on how the extracts are created (low >> temp evaporation), but have never heard of extracts with active >> degrees Linter. > >I remember seeing cans marked "Diastatic Malt Extract" back when I brewed >nothing but extract beers. Edme used to make this, which they called DME. This was before this abbreviation became common for dry malt extract. I used it a few times back in the 70's. I haven't seen it for many years, but it may still be produced. Now back to the garage/brewery, where I'm mashing my McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale with Hallertauer Mittelfrue mash hops. This should warm Marc's heart. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:52:14 -0500 From: "Hill, Steve" <SHill at advanta.com> Subject: Stone Beer Need a source of Graywacke for making some stone beer. Any help will be greatly appreciated? Anyone in the Northwest or Pacific coast brewing stone beer? Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:02:50 +1100 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at aus.sun.com> Subject: lonely phil.... Phil, Hark so lonely on the HBD. Well I would have been more than happy to join you in the fun that the PP would bring.....except you never did reply to me about coming down to Bowral. I was in Bowral at my sisters new house, but nere did I get the meekest of reply to my interest in coming by. Do I take this as a slant, ignored and rejected? I will be back down there in a matter of weeks. Perhaps you might like a cuddle then. Now before you get carried away (I know you must be excited with the Mardi Gra pending, I can feel the excitement from trolley dolly's around Australia now!) it will only be a cuddle...and i will have my cardi and slippers on as well (but promise to shave so i dont remind you of Nanna) So phil...drop me a line, Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:04:27 -0800 From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis at earthlink.net> Subject: Irish dry stout profiles In "Stout" by Lewis, just one of the cool pieces of information is the comparative analysis of the three Irish Dry Stouts. The following table shows compositions taken from kegs of Guinness, Murphy's and Beamish, where A, B, and C were randomized (that is, which beer is represented by which column of data was not identified, but some educated guesses as to which is which seems fair game). These draft beers were obtained here in California, hence represent whatever was getting sent out this way at the time ('97 I think). The analyses were done at UC Davis' brewing lab. BEER A B C OG (degree P) 9.75 9.09 9.53 Ethanol (% v/v) 4.20 3.88 4.11 IBU 48 33 37 pH 4.00 4.20 3.97 total acidity (%w/v as acetic acid) 0.097 0.070 0.071 color (EBC at 430 nm) 125 117 124 Energy value (kcal/100ml) 35 33 34 FERMENTATION VOLATILES (all are mg/L) Ethyl Acetate 12 19 11 Isoamyl Acetate 1.0 3.5 1.4 Propanol 17 19 11 Isobutanol 15 33 18 Isoamyl Alcohols 48 71 66 Acetaldehyde 1 1 1 Diacetyl 0.03 0.08 0.05 2,3 Pentanedione 0.01 0.02 0.02 While very similar in some attributes, there are marked differences in others. I know what my guesses are... - --dave sapsis, sacramento Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 21:59:58 -0600 From: "elvira toews" <etoews1 at home.com> Subject: Re.: RIMS Problem Matt: Sounds like a real bummer. There wasn't some change in raw materials, was there? Things come to mind ranging from a touch of mold on the malt to a change in the water supply. Sean r. srichens at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:08:32 -0500 From: "Mr. Shane A. Saylor" <shane.saylor at verizon.net> Subject: Hops: Pellets vs. Cakes Greetings. I have question of great interest. Most homebrewers get hop pellets (I assume) because they are the most common for of the various hops available. But on The Food Network, I was watching Emril Live! with Chef Emril Lagasse. He maid a ale. And he had a gent from a NY Brewery on and they were discussing the various hops, grains & malts. In his ale, Emril used not hop pellets, but HOP CAKES. I assume that the cakes are fresher and therefore add a more "hoppy" flavor to the brew. Thoughts??? P.S. What exactly are the PROS & CONS of using pellets vs. cakes? - -- "There is no truth, only fictions woven by power to justify itself." -- Bruce Thornton, "Plagues Of The Mind" Return to table of contents
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