HOMEBREW Digest #3610 Wed 18 April 2001

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  Sam Adam's Spring Ale Clone, Hydrometer ("Seth E. Anderson")
  temperature controllers (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Sorry Pat i am a goose! pH 2 acid ("plotek")
  Minikeg leakage ("Dan Listermann")
  Re: Plastic False Bottom Material ("patrick finerty jr.")
  haze (Frank Tutzauer)
  quick wheat ("ben A.")
  Japanese Beetles Redux (Dan Wenger)
  :re Temperature Controllers ("Rick Hamel")
  pubcrawler.com (Paris)
  Long time gawker types in. (Stephen.F.Higdon)
  Serving line ("Dr. John")
  Pot Drains? (Michael)
  iodine test for yeast glycogen levels? Any inputs? ("Dan Diana")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 02:31:21 -0700 From: "Seth E. Anderson" <seanderson at wsu.edu> Subject: Sam Adam's Spring Ale Clone, Hydrometer Good Evening- I've been reading the digest for some time now and I have gleaned a wealth of information from the issues of the HBD. Now it's my turn to ask a question and provide a tip. First, I've posted a recipe to the recipator for a Sam Adam's Spring Ale Clone that I am going to try to make. I've never done a partial mash, but I've been reading up on it and I think I can do it. I would like to move to All Grain, but I live in a tiny one bedroom apartment. My request is for tips on doing a partial mash and things beginners get stuck on. The second part is, if there is anything that looks funny with the recipe, let me know. Like I said, I made it up based on some sketchy information I had. http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator?item=1840 SA's Spring-Has-Sprung Ale 5 gallons 37 IBU OG: 1.054 Used filtered water from the supermarket and added 1 Tbs. per gallon of water for the mash and sparge water before heating. 2 lb. American 2-row 1 lb. Wheat malt 1 lb. American Vienna Mash: Mashed 4 lbs grain in 5 1/2 qts water in a brew kettle at 160F and held in a 150F oven for 60 min, stirring after 30 min. Sparged with 170F, recirculated until clear. Boil: 90 minutes Added: 4 lb. Light malt extract 4 oz. Light dry malt extract 1 gallon of filtered water to liquor in kettle and brought to boil. 1/4 tsp Irish Moss added at last 15 minutes Hops: .5 oz. Kent Goldings (5% AA, 60 min.) .5 oz. Hallertauer Mittelfruh (5% AA, 45 min.) .5 oz. Spalt (6.75% AA, 45 min.) 1.5 oz. Hallertauer Mittelfruh (5% AA, 30 min.) .25 oz. Kent Goldings (5% AA, 15 min.) .25 oz. Spalt (6.75% AA, 15 min.) Yeast: Top off fermenter to 5 gals. Added a quart starter of Wyeast #1007 German Ale. Use a fish air pump and stone to aerate for 30 min. Regarding the hydrometer, I was recently at the pet store and I noticed a hydrometer for reading salt level in fish aquariums. The package said it was adjusted for temperature and the ranges fit most normal gravity beers. I thought that it might provide an easy way to test specific gravity. The only downside I saw was that it took a relatively large amount of liquid to make it work. Thank you once again for all the information I have learned. Private emails are okay, but I'm sure the group would enjoy the discussion. Seth Anderson Pullman, WA (home of the infamous Wazzu "Riots") Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 07:46:44 -0400 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremy at bergsman.org> Subject: temperature controllers There has been a little traffic here (and on the cheese list) about temp controllers. IMO DIY is the way to go, after all you can just buy beer instead of making it. http://hbd.org/users/mtippin/thermometer.html (I built a RIMS version of this one) There used to be one based on a Radio Shack digital thermometer which is currently running my beer fridge. I can't find it now. Also, here is a post I made about a year ago: > I received a catalog in the mail yesterday which offers what seems to be a > good deal in temp controllers that could be used for a refrigerator or even > possibly a RIMS. The cheapest is $19.95, goes from 30-110F, is waterproof, > and will switch "16FLA at 120V or 8FLA at 240V". I don't know what FLA means but > assuming it's amps this sounds good. They all have analog dial adjustment > with no temp readout and are made by "Durostat". The catalog is TekSupply, > 800-835-7877, http://www.TekSupply.com. Standard disclaimer applies, > including I've never done business with them. - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremy at bergsman.org http://www.bergsman.org/jeremy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 10:40:11 +1000 From: "plotek" <plotek at optushome.com.au> Subject: Sorry Pat i am a goose! pH 2 acid Sorry Janitors and Godlings I confess it was me who posted to the wrong spot and hence lost my mild posts! I appreciated you guys keeping such attention to the goings on in the Great Southern Land. Being a banana and beer republic we really dont rate as much as you guys. Now as to Beer, Clifton Moore requested a way of getting pH 2 acid. I assume it was phosphoric. I have a simple spreadsheet some where at work which is uncorrected for the second and third dissociation constants. This will do for a quick guide. I just didnt have time to key in the quadratic that the correction for the second reduces to. and of course promptly lost interest and started playing protein boy. Clifton, email me at hag at ansto.gov.au and I will hunt it down for you. Now as to taking the proverbial out of us- you guys are king. We still have to find a country leader who would chunder a bad Bud under a table in japan. I wonder if his son will one day exhibit the style and grace that is required to become an ordinary Australian. Muddie Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 10:01:15 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Minikeg leakage Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:22:49 -0400 From: "Stephen" <stephennyc at about.com> Subject: re: minikegs <I'm using a PhilTap - when I say leak, I mean leak - you can hear it and sometimes see a bit of spray escaping at the tap/keg joint. Keg Lube just seems to let the tap ride up about a 1/4 inch out of the bung. (BTW - bungs are two keggings old, all purchased from Williams in a kit).> An examination of the Wecomatic bungs sold by William's reveals a difference between them and the Fass - Frisch bungs we modify into Phil's Relieph Bungs. The Wecomatic bung has a straight bore and does not have the two internal lips that the Fass - Frisch bungs do. They do not seem to grip the dip tube as tightly. This is unexpected. I will contact William's Brewing to address this issue. Dan Listermann Check out our new E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 11:06:40 -0400 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: Plastic False Bottom Material howdy, i'm not convinced using a plastic false bottom will solve your problems. i see a fairly large difference in efficiency in my system when i drop from a 10 gal batch to 5 gal. btw, i'm using a 10 gal Gott cooler with a home built copper manifold. i attribute the diff to the decreased height of the grain bed. i'm sure many factors are at work here but i think my main problems are the decreased resistance to flow with less grain (increases the probability of channels forming) as well as the difficulty in setting up a grain bed with consistent density. so, perhaps switching to a vessel with a larger height/width ratio would solve your problems. -patrick in Toronto On Monday 16 April, 2001, Fermentos wrote: > I mash in a 150 qt rectangular cooler and with the plastic pipe manifold > I made, and I have gotten horrible extraction / efficiency. Back when I > mashed in a converted keg with a SS false bottom, I got great > efficiency. My thought is to place a plastic false bottom on top of the > plastic pipe manifold iin the cooler and hopefully see the same > efficiency I used to get when I used the SS false bottom in the smaller > system. > > Any comments as to this idea or suggestion where I can get a plastic > false bottom that is about 18"x48"? > > Fermentos Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 12:12:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: haze I've got a beer with a haze problem that I'd like diagnosed. Don't any of you wankers tell me to put the beer in an opaque glass--the beer tastes great and I'm not the least bit concerned about the haze. All of my beers, both extract and all-grain, develop a chill haze, and I drink the beer anyway. After a week or three, the haze drops out, but in this batch it didn't, and I'm just interested from the standpoint of understanding what went on. The beer is a North German Pils, based on a recipe in Brew Your Own. A couple of friends and I mashed enough grain for fifteen gallons in a big mondo mash tun. We diverted the run off into three separate kettles, and boiled, hopped, pitched, and fermented separately (and differently). The grain bill (for fifteen gallons) was 29.5 lbs. of Weisheimer pilsner malt, 1.5 lbs. of Munich, and 1 lb. of Durst light crystal. If it matters, I bittered with Northern Brewer, flavored with Spalt and Perle, and finished with Hallertau. The yeast was Wyeast 2007 (Pilsen) stepped up twice, decanted, and stepped up a third time in a quart of low-gravity wort. We miscalculated our strike water quantities, and so missed our mash temps. We ended up with a very thick mash at 147-149F for one and a half hours. Iodine was positive for starch at one hour, and negative at one and a half hours. We sparged for two hours with water in the 160-180 range (I doubt the sparge water in the tun ever exceeded 160, but didn't specifically measure it.) I ended up with five and a half gallons of 1.055 wort. Fermentation was active in under 24 hours, and the temps were in the low to mid 50s. I thought I did a diacetyl rest, but don't have that noted in my log. Racked to secondary after 10 days, kegged it three weeks later, and moved it to the fridge. FG was 1.013. It's been lagering at about 35-38F for three months, and it's got a persistent haze. My friends' did not lager their beers for any serious length of time, and we've already consumed them, so I don't recall if the other two beers from this mash had hazes or not. A helles that I brewed a month later, and lagered along side this one (although for less than two months at this point), is absolutely crystal clear. I do not believe this is a chill haze because it would have settled out by now and because warming the beer does not dissipate the haze. At first I suspected a starch haze because of the thick mash. We did get a negative iodine test, but maybe some other part of the mash had some malt balls that didn't get converted. However, testing the finished but hazy beer also gives a negative iodine reaction. Additionally, the beer does not have the starchy mouthfeel that I have found in extract beers using specialty grains that needed to be mashed but weren't (oat in particular). I do not believe it is a yeast haze because the yeast should have settled by now. I do not believe it is a bacterial haze because there are no obvious off flavors or smells, and my sanitation regime was standard operating procedure. Things that are different from this beer and my usual beers: --I have never used the Weisheimer or Durst malts before or since --I have never mashed at such a low temperature --Even though I typically use thick mashes, this was thicker still --The beer gods were angy at me that day What do you guys think? --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 09:27:44 -0700 (PDT) From: "ben A." <monkeyvsdinosaur at yahoo.com> Subject: quick wheat does anyone have a recipe for a fast to finish wheat beer? maybe a week in fermentation and another week in the bottle? i am an extract brewer and im not looking for anything complicated. ben A. ===== Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 12:22:58 -0500 From: Dan Wenger <dkw at execpc.com> Subject: Japanese Beetles Redux Back to the Japanese Beetles v. Hops discussion: I heard on the radio yesterday that a sprinkling of bay leaves will send Japanese Beetles packing. I haven't tried it yet, your mileage may vary, and I have no formal relationship with Japanese Beetles. If it does work, I suppose one could plant Bay trees in with hops. These little ladybugs arrived in SE Wisconsin last summer. They swarm on everything, bite, and leave a nasty staining goo when you step on them. I think they're moving North, so maybe those in Michigan will be blessed soon. Dan Wenger Gesundheit Hausbraueri Waukesha, WI USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 14:58:30 -0400 From: "Rick Hamel" <hamelrick at hotmail.com> Subject: :re Temperature Controllers "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> asked about temperature controllers. I have both the johnson controller and the ranco I have the johnson controls controller. This controller works great. It is set for a 4 degree delay in temp. This is so you don't burn out your compressor by cycling it on and off. The mercury filled wire is a bit of a pain. It is not as flexible as the wire from the Ranco but no big deal. The mercury bulb can be immersed in water if you want to further delay the on/off cycle. You can't tell what the current temp is as you can with the Ranco. The Ranco is just as good as the Johnson but much more convenient to use. The biggest difference is that you can use it to control a heat source. It can be programatically be set for cooling or heating. In the winter I hook up a heating pad to keep my chest freezer at fermentation temps. The ambient temp is around 65 in my pantry in the winter. Then when I want to cold condition my beer I plug the chest freezer in the Ranco unit and set it for controlling a cold source. The other difference is you can set the differential to use. I'm not sure what the max is, but I've had it set anywhere between 1 degree and 6 degrees. This is also done programatically by the front panel. The Ranco unit always displays the current temperature on the front panel. I really like this feature. You can't submerge the temperature problem from the Ranco in a liquid. You would have to use a thermowell. I got mine from www.brewtek.com. It is already wired for $99.90. If I had never bought the Johnson Controller I would have two of these. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 15:45:40 -0400 From: Paris at BodyMedia.Com Subject: pubcrawler.com [ The following text is in the "iso-8859-1" character set. ] [ Your display is set for the "US-ASCII" character set. ] [ Some characters may be displayed incorrectly. ] saw the message on April 9th about Pubcrawler.com... We recently lost our connectivity and have been scrambling to get the servers back online. We were one of over 100,000 lines effected by Northpoint's sudden collapse and discontinuation of service. The site will be returning next Monday. -paris co-owner Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:46:05 -0400 From: Stephen.F.Higdon at am.pnu.com Subject: Long time gawker types in. It is good to see the wide range of attention to detail here. A new brewer may be intimidated by some of the more technical chat, but as long as they understand that in most cases excellent beer is produced without all the analytical equipment or knowledge, (that some get very passionate about). I've had plenty of beer from microbreweries and friends that taste great, and many have no concerns with water chemistry, DMS, or hot side aeration, etc. I myself get hyped up sometimes, and argue about some of the complicated aspects of brewing, but eventually I realize that much of what is written and talked about may not matter, what does is the taste of YOUR beer. If it is liked, it is just fine. Each brewer has their favorite techniques, and most have differences in their equipment and ingredients. So for example, what causes a certain off flavor for one may not for another, and it could take several controlled experiments to prove what the real cause is. As small scale brewers we have the advantage of trying something new every time we brew. Or possibly our time may be better spent by coming up with a few favorite recipes, and fine tuning each one to our content. Don't bother worring about possible problems if your beer is turning out how you like it. A lot of extra work and many time consuming steps would be added to our brew day if we believe all the horrible problems that are caused by our normal, simple practices. No thanks, unless extra work makes you happy. Of course, if a repeating problem occurs, the trouble-shooting should begin. Starting with the basics: what have I changed or done differently lately?, are the ingredients fresh?, is sanitation adequate?, could the yeast be bad?, etc. Have fun brewing, and remind new brewers that it really is simple if you let it be. -HIGGY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 18:44:18 -0500 From: "Dr. John" <drjohn17 at home.com> Subject: Serving line How long should the liquid-out line be on a keg? I've heard that if it is long enough, you can keep the keg at pressure and serve at the same pressure. To be honest, though, I don't quite understand how this works. It doesn't make sense to me that the keg pressure and the serving pressure at the end of a line of fixed width would differ. Thanks. John Thompson Baton Rouge, LA Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Apr 2001 20:56:23 PDT From: Michael <am-photographer at usa.net> Subject: Pot Drains? I am a new brewer and have made a few batches. I am trying to find some easy way to get the beer out of the pot without pouring or siphoning so that I can leave the sludge in the pot. I think the metal in the pot is too thin to weld? Any ideas if there is such a thing. A metal spigot with a bulhead type device has to be made. I have tried searching the net, found lot of large heavy duty (big) valves. Nothing that would fit on a stainless stove pot. Michael Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:44:45 -0700 From: "Dan Diana" <dands at ftconnect.com> Subject: iodine test for yeast glycogen levels? Any inputs? I have been having troubles of late getting my yeast cultures to come out of hibernation and be as active as I would like. I've been using the pitchable products with starters. In doing some research on the subject, I came across a comment [I've quoted it here] made in Fix's Principles of Brewing Science, p. 98: "Since yeast starvation and glycogen depletion are strongly correlated, it is important for brewers to measure the glycogen levels in yeast batches to be pitched. This is particularly true of yeats that have been stored. There is a simple iodine test for glycogen levels in yeast". references: 1. Fix, 1986, Beer and Brewing, Trans. from the Natl. Conf on Quality Beer and Brewing, vol 6. Boulder. Brewers Publications 2. Fix, 1990, Beer and Brewing, Trans. from the Natl. Conf on Quality Beer and Brewing, vol 10. Boulder. Brewers Publications Does anyone have experience using this test and could provide some inputs on how useful it is? I have tried to find these references and have not been successful. Any inputs and direction is appreciated. Dan Diana Tall Timber Brewer Portland, OR Return to table of contents
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