HOMEBREW Digest #3653 Thu 07 June 2001

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  Defunct?  Never! (TOLLEY Matthew)
  RE: 2.2L = 1 mile? (TOLLEY Matthew)
  "intermediate" mashing instructions. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Mead recipe ("Michael J. Dale")
  lager yeast (Marc Sedam)
  rims pump (The Freemans)
  In Defense of  Glass Carboys (Stephen Klump)
  Re: lemongrass usage (Rob Dewhirst)
  RIMS pump ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Brewpubs in Detroit (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Pump Duty (Brad Miller)
  Brewing Flags ("David Craft")
  Yokohama and Tokyo ("Mutsuo Hoshido")

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:02:50 +1000 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: Defunct? Never! From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> >Darwin Stubby was a 2L bottle of NT Lager or NT Draught - can't remember >which and they are now defunct. Never! Saw them for sale in a Woden bottle shop this very weekend. Cheers ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:22:05 +1000 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: RE: 2.2L = 1 mile? From: Joe Yoder <headduck at swbell.net> >Once again showing our American (U.S.) stupidity when it comes to the >metric system. I am pretty sure that there are 2.2 L to the mile, so a >Darwin really isn't that much beer!! There must be some sort of American joke that's going waaay over my head here. A Darwin stubby is a bottle that holds 2 (2.25?) litres of beer (I probably should have use a lower case 'l'). Now that I've cleared that up, what the heck were you folk talking about? I can't think of any measure of distance symbolised by an 'L' or 'l' of which 2.2 add up to a mile. Cheers! ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 13:06:04 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: "intermediate" mashing instructions. 'spose it's up to the interpreter, to decide if this is "beginning" or "intermediate", but Dave Line's "The Big Book of Brewing" is really the thing that set all the homebrewing wheels rolling, the first book I read on the subject, and one which I've lent out (sp?) innumerous times. I just pulled my dog-eared copy off the shelf, to see if it really still is worthwhile, and I'd say the answer is "Yes". A very charming writing style, that I assume reflects a similar attitude. Most of the equipment is pretty dated, and he was by today's standards perhaps a bit limited in which brewing styles he produced, but he planely states things, that are apparently still not clear around HBD. What I really recall enjoying, was his little "bedtime story" about the "Amylase family" ("Alf" and "Betty" ), and their woodchopping..... I still "borrow" this analogy when explaining how mash enzymes work to someone that I can see "shudders" and "goes blank" at the mention of chemical terms. So if undertanding the mashing process is what you're after, I'd say the book still is good value.... plus a bloody charming read, and a bit of a "historical document". Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:43:03 -0400 From: "Michael J. Dale" <mdale70 at bellatlantic.net> Subject: Mead recipe My brother just got engaged and I would like to make him and his wife-to-be some mead for the honeymoon. Does anyone have a good recipe for mead, or know where I can find one? I have never made mead before, although I gather that it can't be that different from making beer. Thanks. mjd Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:20:46 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: lager yeast I couldn't agree with Paul more. Once again... H0: Fermenter geometry will have no effect on FG of beer. H1: Fermenter geometry will have a statistically relevant effect on FG of beer. H2: Fermenter geometry will have a statistically relevant effect on the speed of fermentation. I hate to constantly preach the KISS model, but this would be so much easier if we could agree to brew an extract lager (why not a helles using extra light malt extract, unless someone [Jeff?] can convince Mary Anne Gruber to donate some CAP extract to the 'spurment). Find a source for Saflager S-23 which, I can attest, gives good fermentation characteristics. I know DeFalco's carries it. My Saflager CAPs and Helleses (Helli?) are all fine beers, if not a bit cloudier. Find a source of anti-foam agent as well. Ferment in a 5 gallon carboy vs. 5 gallon corny. Has anyone considered asking the AHA to chip in some of the cost here? Aren't they for promoting the homebrewing hobby? Cheers! Marc - -- Marc Sedam Associate Director Office of Technology Development The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill 308 Bynum Hall; CB# 4105 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-4105 919.966.3929 (phone) 919.962.0646 (fax) OTD site : http://www.research.unc.edu/otd eMTA site: http://mta.unc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:54:06 -0500 From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net> Subject: rims pump I use 2 of the March 809 series pumps on "the perfesser". These are bronze bodied mag drives that can take just about anything you want to throw at them and are virtually bullet proof. http://www.brewrats.org/hwb/er/images/er10.jpg The pump is the same as used by the Pico folks. It is available from McMaster Carr under their part # 4161K21 and is priced at $125.27. If this seems steep pricing, just remember what you have already replaced. Use the 1/25th HP version as I have tried the 1/100th HP unit and found it lacking. http://www.mcmaster.com/ Hope this helps, Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat KP Brewing - home of "the perfesser' Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:21:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Stephen Klump <spklump at yahoo.com> Subject: In Defense of Glass Carboys In defense of glass: Yes glass is heavier than plastic, But you can buy handles that attach to the neck to give help in holding it (dont grab the handle without supporting the base). Glass doesnt get ruined from scratches -Ive had glass carbouys for 5+ years... plastic buckets dont last that long With glass you can see films on the inside which mean you need to soak/clean more... with plastic you need good eyesight 8-) With glass, you can see the fermentation in action -Waaaay coool if youve never seen it. With glass, when you lift the vessel, the bottom doesnt deform sucking in airlock water... Carbouy brushing is a pain, but long handled brushed are available to "ease the pain".... Transferring into a glass carboy from a brewpot can be facilitated by two ways: 1) rack the initial portion of wort using 1/2" tubing (see winebarrel plus at www.winebarrel.com) 2) pour through a screened funnel To answer the posted question about what size carboys: I use the 6.5-7 gal carboy with the screwtop lid for primary and rack into 5 gallon for secondary fermentation. (I also have a couple of 3 gallon carbouys for aging old ales, imp stouts, and small batches of mead...) Use the screw cap to seal the wort + yeast and turn the carbouy onto its side and roll back and forth to mix the yeast in well for primary fermentation (try THAT with a plastic bucket! ;-)) I hope this helps stir some pro-glass discussion cheers! Stephen >Subject: Re Re. 101 Glass Carboy Questions >>"Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> said: > >> Don't do it! Those plastic fermenting buckets >> are the best improvement to homebrewing since >> Charlie's much alligned book. The hassle of >> working with 40lb (full) slippery-when-wet glass >> is not worth the nominal, if any, improvement >> you will notice. > >You know i find it very hard to disagree with this. >Personally i've been >doing all glass for my last couple of batches and >frankly a full 6.5-7 >gallon carboy IS A PITA (pain in the arse). I'm going >back to a bucket >primary until i can get the scratch for a conical! > >Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl at mindspring.net ::: >403forbidden.net ===== ************ Stephen P. Klump St. Louis Missouri spklump at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 11:29:11 -0500 From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu> Subject: Re: lemongrass usage >Subject: Lemon Grass Usage > >I just finished researching the HBD archives for info on lemon grass usage. >There were several mentions of lemon grass, its effect, and pitfalls of >using too much. But no where did I find any advice on how much to use in a >specific volume of beer. Two local breweries make a Lemongrass Rye. One uses 40 lbs/14 bbls. Another uses 25 lbs/7 bbls. 15 in the last 10 mins of the boil, and 10 in the whirlpool. I prefer the beer made by the latter. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:38:25 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: RIMS pump Jonathan Peakall asks for a 'tough as nails' pump. March pumps has several. For you USA folks visit B3 - they have a wide selection (no affiliation, just an impressed competitor). Up here in Canada, we (Paddock Wood- of course I am as affiliated as can be) have been using the same RIMS pump for over 2 years, brewing 10 gallon batches an average of 3 times a week. This pump has a high quality temperature tolerant plastic impeller housing that can handle up to 230 degrees Fahrenheit, and will pump 5 gallons per minute while constantly recirculating. 1/2" ports. It is the same pump that ABT uses in their handy Compu-Brew RIMS system. We've seen no need to have more or different pumps in stock. YMMV, but we LOVE this pump. You can see the specs at our website: www.paddockwood.com/catalog_equipment_mash.html#MASHING There are cheaper pumps out there, but depending on your set-up, they may not be adequate. IMO, it's worth the extra $ to get a pump that can handle boiling temps, and that is virtually maitenance free. Happy RIMSing! cheers, Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiae sugant." Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 13:23:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Brewpubs in Detroit I will be travelling to Detroit next week and would appreciate any pointers to good brewpubs in the area. Also would appreciate any pointers of which to avoid because they may be in a dangerous neighborhood, as I am only familiar with Dearborn and Allen Park. Please send to me in Email at address below as this may not be generally useful to the readers of the Digest. thanks, dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hdb.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:40:21 -0700 From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com> Subject: Pump Duty I was thinking about re-re-redesigning my brewing setup was wondering what a duty cycle for a little giant pump would be. What i want to do is to use my PID to turn it on and off to hold/ramp my temp. I can set the control period to whatever I want but am wondering whatt the pump can handle. Obviously I don't to set the time to 5 seconds but if it were 1 minute would that be too quick? I just don't want to buy expensive salonoid valves. Any thoughts? Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 14:06:43 -0400 From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> Subject: Brewing Flags Greetings, I had several responses about where to find flags and quite a bit of interest in acquiring one. I found several retail stores that carry what seems to be the same flag. Medium blue background with a full and foamy beer mug, 3' x 5'. The various retail stores offer them for about $20 each. They are screen printed and not the kind the with the individual colors sewn on. Custom sewn would be quite a bit more, over $50 each. They are of basic quality, but how often are you going to fly it? Don't answer that! You can see the flag at www.swimport.com/flags/F85.jpeg You can also see that they sell them for $14.95 each, less at wholesale with a minimum order. I can buy them wholesale and sell them for $10 each including shipping! My desire is not to make money, but offer to the brewing community a nice way to show what we like to do. If I can get 20 people interested, I'll buy them and ship them out. I accept Paypal and have a positive Ebay rating of 118+ as ChsyHkr at aol.com for both Ebay and Paypal. Let me know if you are interested. I hope I have not run afoul of the rules of the digest. This is not SPAM or attempt to sell retail on this list, only an attempt to do something nice for my fellow brewers. Many of whom have helped over the last year improve my beers. Second place in the Southeast in the Ordinary Bitter category, this years AHA competition! Brewing on, David Craft Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 12:52:08 +0900 From: "Mutsuo Hoshido" <mutsuo_hoshido at hotmail.com> Subject: Yokohama and Tokyo At Shibuya in Tokyo, there is a department store which has a special floor for homebrewing. The name is "Tokyu Hands". I am afraid that pricing is very expensive( two or three times more expensive than the original price) because all of the ingredients are imported from USA. So most of advanced homebrewers in Japan directly import ingredients from USA. Basically homebrewing exceeding 1% alcohol content is illegal. So cheep Japanese ingredients are not available for homebrewing except a hidden root within a homebrewers. I hope you are successfully get your ingredients. ********************************************** Mutsuo Hoshido 1-28-25 Shimizusawa Shiogama-shi Miyagi-ken Japan #985-0061 Phone +81-22-364-0437 (domestic:022-364-0437) URL: http://www.geocities.co.jp/Foodpia/1751/ LINK is free without notice. ********************************************** Return to table of contents
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