HOMEBREW Digest #3657 Tue 12 June 2001

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  Re: Supplies in Japan ("Mutsuo Hoshido")
  Re: Things Are Grim In Burradoo (Wes Smith)
  Re: Oxygenation (Kurt Kiewel)
  Easy valve for Gott Cooler ("Donald D. Lake")
  Brewing worksheets online ? (Tom Riddle)
  Accurate Carboy Temperature Reading ("Hedglin, Nils A")
   (Dana Edgell)
  yeast, evolution, and oxygen - ultrageeky ("Alan Meeker")
  CCF Yeast harvesting/dumping (Troy Hager)
  HBD Button ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Travel Advice (Petr Otahal)
  another good book (Jeff & Ellen)

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:14:14 +0900 From: "Mutsuo Hoshido" <mutsuo_hoshido at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan Dear Chris-san Thank you very much for your explanation about supplies in Japan. I am one of rather most active Japanese homebrewers actually living in Japan. I would like to add some information to yours. >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:21 +0900 >From: Christopher Jon Poel <cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp> >Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan > >Kurt Kiewel wrote: > > >I brewed in Japan for a while and never heard of any homebrew shops. > >None yet, although some large department stores have "homebrew" sections. About five years, before bubble economy explosion, there were more than 30 small homebrew shops in Japan, At present less than ten shops are remaining. One member of our homebrew ML members stated his homebrew side business using internet. I found there are five to six internet homebrew shops in Japan too. > >I'm told that there are brew-pubs in Japan now. Perhaps if there's one >in Five years ago Japanese microbreweries reached to around 300 all over Japan. Competitions are very severe. Their beers are two or three time more expensive than the very expensive normal commercial beers. After the bubble economy explosion most of then are suffering from very low profitability. Recently we, Japanese homebrew ML members, developed new root to get grains with very cheep price directly from one of whole sellers to microbreweries. One package is 25kg or 55 lb. We still have to import necessary hops and yeast from the USA if we want to save money. Japanese homebrew shops' pricing is surprisingly expensive because of the very limited market and sales amount. > >your area they'd be willing to part with some grains and yeast in >exchange > >for a few English lessons. > >I am often able to get grains from microbreweries in exchange for >"volunteering" at some event, which usually involves more drinking >than working. I had personally used the same way to get grains, yeasts and hops. I found that this was not stable supply root. > > >Homebrewing in Japan is the only way to go because all four kinds of beer > >they have there are way too expensive not to mention they don't taste >like > >anything. We sometimes make our homebrew sake using commercially available materials which are sold as cooking materials. > >Totally agreed. A six pack will set you back more than $10 -- can you >imagine paying $10 for a six of Bud or Coors or Miller? Recently big beer breweries stated to produce very cheep beer using liquid malt like homebrew beginners. Still expensive but about $5 for 6 cans. > >Most Japanese think it's illegal to brew at home. This is simply not >true > >so... relax, don't worry yyy.. Homebrew sake had been a one of Japanese cultures. Militarism and Shinto religion destroyed this culture during the war. >Actually homebrewing is still against the law, unless alcohol content >is less than 1%. But, the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Kind of >like the ridiculously low speed limits in Japan -- no one follows >them and the police are only bastards if you really overdo it. >The upshot is, if you want to homebrew in Japan, be prepared to do a >lot of Internet ordering . . . and waiting for the sea mail to >arrive. Plan ahead and have extra equipment and you're fine. This is very good advise. > >Chris > ********************************************** Mutsuo Hoshido 1-28-25 Shimizusawa Shiogama-shi Miyagi-ken Japan #985-0061 Phone +81-22-364-0437 (domestic:022-364-0437) URL: http://www.geocities.co.jp/Foodpia/1751/ LINK is free without notice. ********************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:44:24 +1000 From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Things Are Grim In Burradoo Well folks, the Baron has returned from his sojourn in New Zealand - AKA 'The Land of The Long White Shroud", to find we have progressed - at last! Actually I was pretty sure the Baron was back as I thought I heard the "tack tack" of the Norton Twin as he did an early morning run around Burradoo, but I wasn't quick enough to see if he was in his usual state of (un)dress. Rumour also has it that he has been "hand selecting" a small flock of sheep in NZ to put into his newly acquired piece of real estate to keep the grass down - so he can get a better view of Marilyn as she emerges from the bog surrounding his ponds. But I digress.... Yes the Burradoo Hilton (BH) has finally closed, gone to the Big Hotel in the sky or wherever they send such establishments that have passed their "use by date". Actually, the BH has never been the same since they closed the second floor verandah. Those Friday night "showers" and some of the other shenanigans that used to keep us entertained were all just a bit much for the gentle folk of Burradoo. And then they banned all renditions of "Oh Danny Boy" which was a real shame because David did a great job of that number. And then the locals started calling it the "Syringe Inn" because of some incident that may or may not have occurred - and that really was the last straw. And what about the carpet "experience" - you could actually see the "juice" ooze as you walked across the bar... And we musn't forget the illegal plumbing that mysteriously disappeared from the Gents back into the cellar.... But like all good things, it had to come to an end. Last Friday the BH re-emerged from behind the builders scaffolding as the Royal Hotel complete with new carpet, lots of shiny brass, no illegal plumbing and real furniture. Same old swill on tap and yes, some lovely ladies to serve it all up. The rumour that I had something to do with the staff selection is just that - but I wish........... Anyway the new Royal will be well patronised by the gentle Burradoo folks who will probably never know about, or indeed understand, the significance of the Dry-As-A-Bone and SouWester permanently displayed in glass case opposite the doorway leading to the new balcony. Jill was kind enough to let us have it in Phils absence, and the new owners, being anxious to retain some links to the past, keen to display any artifact that would pull some of the old regulars. Who knows - on a quiet Friday evening if you listen very carefully, you might just make out the faint strains of "Oh Danny Boy" and the raucous laughter that used to permeate the BH. But I doubt the new clientele will ever understand why Phil's Dry-As-A-Bone and SouWester are on display. Vale BH, Long Live the Royal! Wes Smith. ps. All sheep jokes should be forwarded direct to the Baron himself - he is still on a steep learning curve. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 09:22:04 -0500 From: kiewel at mail.chem.tamu.edu (Kurt Kiewel) Subject: Re: Oxygenation Marc Hawley wrote: "Anybody ever try putting hydrogen peroxide into the fresh wort when pitching the yeast? This would release oxygen directly to the wort. Just an idea." Some time ago Rodney Morris (the inventer of the RIMS system) told me that he puts something in his wort that yeast apparently use as an oxygen source. Now this conversation was about a year ago and after a few beers but what I remember him saying was Oxalic acid. I'll try and hit hm up for details the next time he comes to a brewclub meeting. This could be a while. Perhaps someone has heard of such a thing and could give more details here on the HBD. Then again it could be another Rodney Morris original. I've never tasted one of his beers and in 3 years in the the same club I've never heard of anyone who has tasted one of his beers so lets not go dumping oxalic acid into our worts just yet. Kurt Kiewel Thankfully not underwater in College Station, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:53:08 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net> Subject: Easy valve for Gott Cooler The plastic valve that came with my Gott cooler (that was modified into a hot liquor tank) cracked and had to be replaced. Remembering some ideas posted on HBD, I was able to quickly make a new one with ten bucks and a fast trip to ACE Hardware. I used a rubber mini-keg bung which fit perfectly into the existing hole (pushed in from the inside of the cooler). A 3-inch 1/4"" brass nipple slides in perfectly into the bung. For a valve I bought a brass ball valve with 1/4"" fittings. Here's how it shook out: Mini-keg Bung $1.00 (from homebrew shop) 3 inch 1/4"" Brass nipple $2.00 Brass Ball Valve $7.00 1/4" Brass Hose Barb $1.00 The joy of an easy, inexpensive, no-leak replacement: Priceless I just love it when things go as planned. It reminds me of that song by Van Morrison "When all the parts of the puzzle start to look like they fit....Well my mama told me there'll be days like this" Don Lake Lake Water Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:23:53 -0400 From: Tom Riddle <ftr at oracom.com> Subject: Brewing worksheets online ? Does anyone know if the brewing worksheets from Randy Mosher's "Homebrewers Companion" are available in electronic form somewhere on the web ? - -- Tom Riddle Portsmouth, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:35:47 -0700 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Accurate Carboy Temperature Reading Hi all, I'm pulling my hair out here in California (not that I have much left to begin with), trying to keep my wort cool. I've read lots of suggestions about wet t-shirts, ice baths, etc, all of which are great, but my problem is getting an accurate reading of the wort temperature when it's in a carboy. I've got the Fermometer strips on the side of the carboy, but I've begun to doubt their accuracy. I bought one of those special thermostats to attach to my garage refridgerator, but I think it's broken & I haven't had an opportunity to return it. So, I've tried just running my frig normally without it. I put a floating thermometer in a big glass of water in the frig too to use as a secondary check. The 2-3 times I've checked the wort, the Fermometer strip on the carboy has read about 20 degrees lower than the floating thermometer in the water. The 1st reading was when I set the frig too low. The floating thermometer read about 48 & the Fermometer had no reading (I guessed it was off the low end). The 2nd reading was 66 for the thermometer & 48 for the Fermometer strip. At this point, I don't know which to trust, or if I should toss the whole batch since it looked to get up to 84 degrees at one point. So, any suggestions on what I can do differently, or if I'm doing something wrong? My wife has a nifty cooking thermometer on the end of a flexible lead. It has a digital readout with at the other end of the lead, so you can see the temp without opening the oven. Using the proper sanitation, could I dangle this down into the wort when I make it, & just leave it in there during the whole fermentation? Or would there be some sort of bad reaction with the metal? Thanks, Nils Hedglin Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:50:53 -0700 From: Dana Edgell <edgell at far-tech.com> Subject: Alan. In a recent HBD Alan McLeod says, [My only fear with book collecting is that I will get really itchy for a copy of the 18th century "London and Country Brewer" which is listed on the internet at a couple of thousand bucks.] It is available for free in PDF file of scanned pages. Check out http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/london/ Dana Dana Edgell FARTECH, Inc., 8380 Miramar Mall #227, San Diego, CA 92121 858-373-0349 Dana Edgell FARTECH, Inc., 8380 Miramar Mall #227, San Diego, CA 92121 858-373-0349 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:12:31 -0400 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: yeast, evolution, and oxygen - ultrageeky Regarding recent posts concerning yeasts' use of oxygen and barley/grape sugars: Firstly, it is not strictly true that brewer's yeast can live indefinitely in the absence of oxygen (true anaerobe). True, in the lab we can grow them in the total absence of oxygen for as long as we want /if/ we supplement the growth media with unsaturated fatty acids and ergosterol. Lacking such supplementation the yeast cannot continue to divide very far, thus they have an absolute requirement for O2. As far as yeast evolution goes, it is interesting to consider that, being ancient single-celled eukaryotic organisms, yeasts originated long before /multi-cellular/ plants such as barley or grapes ever existed. However, it is correct that after plants came onto the scene they have since co-evolved. Of course, if you're a Biblical literalist they were all created together with the strong appearance that the yeast came first! We now return you to your regularly scheduled program, already in progress... Alan Meeker Lazy Eight Nano-Brewery "Where the possibilities are endless" Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:00:55 -0700 From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> Subject: CCF Yeast harvesting/dumping Pete asks about how we dump yeast from the BBMB conical. My CCF has the 1/2" NPT brass butterfly valve on the bottom (which in my opinon is too small) and the racking tube on the side with the SS ball valve and the clover clamp. I take everything apart for every brew and soak in cleaner and then sanitizer. My usual process is after racking to keg/bottling bucket I clean the fermenter with TSP or PBW then take all the fittings off and soak in a small pot with the cleaner. I brush them out with a small bottle brush and rinse them well. On brew day I reassemble the fittings onto the CCF and go about sanitizing with StarSan. I know that others just run boiling water or clean w/out disassembly but after talking to George DP and learning that the brewpubs disassemble everything on their conicals for ever brew I decided to be safe and do it too. As far as the harvesting/dumping of the yeast, I usually wait till day 2-3 of fermentation (ales) and then dump to a sanitized quart canning jar. I spray off the fittings with iodophore or StarSan religiously before and after use. I open the butterfly on the bottom and it usually take a bit of time for the thick compacted yeast to make its way out but I get a healthy jar of yeast that drops out to usually about a pint of slurry below a pint of beer. I usually wait this long because I do not want to dump on day 1 and then have the sludge sitting there collecting bacteria for a day or two and being transfered to my "clean" yeast slurry that I want to keep. I have really seen not much layering of the trub/hop/break/yeast material in this slurry so I have not washed it. I store it in the fridge and usually use it in 2-3 weeks or share with brew buddies and get very low lag times and very complete fermentations. Hope this helps. Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:17:37 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: HBD Button Thinking about the upcoming AHA National Conference in LA, I decided to order one of the HBD name tag buttons. On the HBD web site it indicated a wait of several weeks when ordering the button. I decided to go ahead and order one anyway and sent an email to Pat & Karl requesting that it be done as quickly as possible since I was hoping to wear it at the Conference. I got the HBD button in the mail today, well in time to use it at the AHA conference in LA next week. Thanks, guys, I really appreciate it. However, I do have one issue to bring up - along with the button was an enclosed paper. Among other things, it said, "While surface moisture is not a problem, your button will be ruined if it gets soaked, so no dunking in beer or swimming with it on, please." Now I'm not a lawyer (nor do I play one on tv) so I probably won't state this correctly - but I'll do my best (maybe Louis Bonham could help me out here). There is a doctrine in law concerning product liability. Basically, you should have expectations that a product will hold up within the scope of reasonable use of that product for its' intended function. Now, a button intended for homebrewers might reasonably be expected to get dunked in beer or the wearer get tossed in a pool during a rowdy party at some point. On the whole, I'm extremely pleased by the button, but I've gotta tell ya I'm going to loose sleep at night worrying about these possibilities. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, Fl ps - I look forward to getting the chance to share a beer with as many of you as possible in LA. Who else is planning on attending the conference? Let me know. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 10:27:58 +1000 From: Petr Otahal <potahal at utas.edu.au> Subject: Travel Advice Hi All, I will be travelling to Europe and Canada in Aug/Sept/Oct, and I would like some advice on breweries to visit, festivals to attend, and beers to try. Firstly I will be in the Czech Republic for a few weeks where I am definitely going to Plzen, will also visit the Radegast brewery as it is close to where my relatives live. Unfortunately my relatives are wine makers so dont have much knowledge about the best beers to try. I will then be staying in Aachen for a week or so, and will be visiting Duesseldorf and Koeln and a short trip into Belgium. I have no idea where to go in Belgium, but I would like to go somewhere where I can sample a few different styles and also somewhere that has something interesting for my partner. I would also like a recomendation of pubs to go to in Duesseldorf, Koeln, and Aachen. I will then be in the UK for a few weeks and will be going to Burton to visit the Marstons Brewery, which I believe is the last brewery to use the Burton Union System. Will also be around the midlands (Derbyshire, Liecestershire, Nottinghamshire), then Newcastle and finaly to the St. Albans beer festival at the end of September. Will be landing in Calgary in early October and doing a very touristy drive accross the Rockies to Vancouver (must keep SWMBO happy). So I would also like some advice on Microbreweries and such between Calgary and Vancouver. Then to complete the circuit I will be stopping in Hawaii for a few days to visit some friends. Then home to let my liver relax. Thankyou in advance. Private email is fine. Cheers Petr Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:28:49 -0400 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: another good book I've been waiting for anyone else to mention "Making Beer" by Mares, but I guess I may be one of very few who read it. I'm sorry not to know the author's first name, but I lent out the book several years ago and it was never returned. This book was the first and perhaps only book that I found that was written by someone more skilled as a writer than as a brewing scientist. I had been struggling with David Miller's text and in 92 it was the first book that made sense of sparging for me. I recommend it, not as a textbook, but as an overall view of all-grain brewing. Jeff Gladish, Tampa Return to table of contents
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