HOMEBREW Digest #3665 Thu 21 June 2001

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  Lemon Use (Chuck Doucette)
  Scottish Ale Herbs ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Dissolving Oxygen (Ant Hayes)
  Counter Pressure Filling a Lager (Ant Hayes)
  Water Analysis (Cynthia Pekarik)
  Water of Hydration/O2/Water Analyses ("A.J. deLange")
  England/Scotland Pub Tours ("Jeff Woods")
  temperature control,temperature control,temperature control (Jim Adwell)
  Aroma hops in high gravity wort (Dan Temple)
  Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe ("Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3")
  RE: Forced Carbonation ("Walter H. Lewis III")
  H2O2 (Nathan Kanous)
  Wyeast 1338 in Mild ale ("Peter Fantasia")
  Smoke in Scottish/Scotch Ale ("H. Dowda")
  RE: Forced Carbonation (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Fruit Beers  Aaargh! ("H. Neal Andreae")
  Fermentation Temp For Sure!!! (Phil Wilcox)
  Re: Forced Carbonation (Jeff Renner)
  Peroxide (David Harsh)
  ginger ale (Jeff Renner)
  Mad River ("Echols, Brent")
  False Bottom Design (John Palmer)
  water analysis 4 free ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")
  Milds and 1338/1968 ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  More old brewing books ("Drew Avis")
  H2O2  and removing residue in bottles/carboys ("Steven Parfitt")
  RE; My strawberry Wheat ("Mike Pensinger")
  Re: Temperature or Geometry ("Doug Hurst")
  Re: "Scottish" Ale herbs (Svlnroozls)
  Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation ("RYAN WILLIS")
  Re: H2O2 / German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF) (Hubert Hanghofer)
  Boiling rates (David Brandt)
  Re: H2O2 Oxygenation (alastair)
  Carbonation & water testing (Beaverplt)
  Pineapple Beer ("2brewers4u")
  RE:False Bottom Design ("2brewers4u")
  Fruit Beer abv ("Echols, Brent")
  What is more important temp control or fermentor geometry? ("Richard Sieben")

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:32:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: Lemon Use Thanks to those of you who have written to help me. I was reminded that I neglected to supply info. as to what kind of beer I am attempting to add Lemon to. I have selected a weizenbier and am using Wyeast #3944 (Belgian White Beer). I am intending a light lemon flavor. I do not want to over power the flavor of the beer itself. I am also intending to use some "seeds of paradise" in the brew. The questions I have are: Do I use Lemon juice or Lemon zest? How much of it do I use? And, what is the best time to introduce the chosen method to the process? Thanks in advance for any help, and now I intend to thoroughly Relax, displaying an absolute lack of worry, and have a Homebrew! Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL., USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 02:34:42 -0400 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Scottish Ale Herbs Dear Mr. Beecher, I haven't checked recently, but I think you could obtain sweet gale, heather and bog myrtle at the Mountain Peoples' Co-op Store in Morgantown. I will go downtown tomorrow and see, and if they are available, I shall pick some up for you, if you'd like. There are also a number of herbalists and natural food suppliers on the Web; perhaps they might carry these as well. Jeff Greenly Morgantown, West Virginia >Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:32:41 -0400 >From: "Rich Beecher" <rbeecher at hotmail.com> >Subject: Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe > >19 June > > I've seen the following listed in various recipes for "Scottish" >Ale. >Does anybody have any idea where they may be purchased? > >Sweet Gale >Heather Flowers >Bog Myrtle Leaves > > Thank you much for your help. > >Rich Beecher >West Virginia, U.S.A. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:34:09 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Dissolving Oxygen I recently bought an oxygen cylinder and regulator and put my aquarium pump into storage. However, I have not been able to track down metric instructions. I use a 1 micron air stone and pump oxygen at 3 litres per minute for 5 minutes in my 50 litre fermenter (stainless CCV - approx 60 litre volume) - Jeremy Wallis' RoT method. The regulator is meant for medical uses where I guess volume per minute is preferable to pressure. However, I don't know how to convert l/min to psi (or to kPa for that matter). Dennis Davison's excellent article in Brewing Techniques Sep/Oct 1996 seems to recommend 20 seconds at 30psi for a 5 gallon fermenter at 66F - or roughly 20 seconds at 210 kPa for 20 litres at 19C - to get about 12 ppm oxygen levels. 210 kPa seems to be asking for excess foam. 3 litres per minute results in foam building slowly enough not to be a concern. Does anyone know how to convert l/min to kPa? Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:46:20 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Counter Pressure Filling a Lager My quest to reproduce Castle Lager has run up against a problem. I have a lager (my interpretation of Your Father's Mustache) which I carbonated to somewhere near 2,5 volumes. However I have only ever bottled ales at around 1,5 volumes before, and I have discovered that a different technique is needed. I carbonated the beer over night at 1C, and then attempted to bottle. The bottles were at about 10C. Everything went well until I started to vent pressure after filling - at which point, the bottles started gushing. I found that I can get a cap on a PET bottle almost fast enough - but crown capping is out of the question. I prefer bottling in glass. Does anyone have any tips - would it help to chill the bottles? Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:42:37 -0400 From: Cynthia Pekarik <74163.1163 at compuserve.com> Subject: Water Analysis Hi folks I got my well water analysis results. Is my water good for brewing or how can I treat it? Ph................................................ 7.2 Nitrate Nitrogen...................... 14.00 PPM Total Hardness...................... 366.62 PPM Phosphorus............................. .10 PPM Potassium............................... 3.72 PPM Calcium..................................... 90.27 PPM Magnesium.............................. 34.31 PPM Bicarbonate............................. 394 PPM Chloride.................................... 40.00 PPM Sulphates................................ 21.20 PPM Total Solids............................ .05 % Sodium.................................... 20.04 PPM Zinc........................................... .02 PPM Manganese............................ .01 PPM Copper..................................... .01 PPM Iron............................................ .07 PPM Boron....................................... .04 PPM Silicon...................................... 4.80 PPM Thank you Larry Kress RR# 2 Rockwood, Ontario Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:53:44 +1000 From: "plotek" <plotek at optushome.com.au> Subject: Could Glen please email me so i can somehow get a bottle of his stinky pinky lager? Meat and rats were often associated with old style "ales" and Meads as people didnt really care in those days Oi! goht a ale keep? loid de one wid de rot innit? gimme too pindsadat! Well Glen, foor pindsadat lager mait! Surprisingly little argument from the Pivo corner about maltose. I just comment on what you guys point out Muddie Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:16:16 +0100 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Water of Hydration/O2/Water Analyses WRT water of hydration: There are various forms of the various salts. The most variable is, as has been noted, caclium chloride which occurs as the anhydride, the dihidryde and the hexahydrate. All of these are deliquesent to some extent (i.e. pick up moisture from the air) but as the dihydride is the most stable in this regard, it is the salt preferred for use in brewing applications and is the one most commonly sold for this purpose. Epsom salts is the heptahydrate and is stable WRT water pickup. Brewers are unlikely to encounter any other form. Gypsum, the dihydrate of calcium sulfate is similar in this regard. The sesquihydrate is plaster of Paris which is a common enough substance but I've never heard of anyone brewing with it. Calcium carbonate does not pick up appreciable ammounts of water. For analytic purposes any of these salts would be dried at 105 C and cooled in a dessicator just prior to weighing. For practical brewing purposes this is not necessary but care should be taken to minimize exposure of the salts to humid air. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Yes, I have done some DO measurements but I am presently far from home and my notebooks so I'll have to rely on memory and I'll try to remember to check this out again when I get back home (2 weeks). From recall, oxygenation with a stainless steel "stone" at a modest flow rate gets wort to saturation within about 3 minutes as long as the stone is moved about through the wort. Acheiving saturation with air takes much longer (10 -15 minutes?) Shaking a carboy takes even longer. Punching small holes in a racking cane is not effective (can't remember the level acheived but it's about 50% of saturation). * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * For a brewing water analysis you want to know "the significant seven" parameters: pH, calcium hardness, magnesium hardness, alkalinity (total), chloride, sulfate and chlorine. This assumes that the water is deemed potable, i.e. free of pesticides, agricultural runoff etc. but it is also helpful to know about iron, manganese, copper, nitrate etc. If chlorine is present it helps to know what percentage of it is free and what percentage is as chloramine. The methods for removal are different. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:18:52 -0400 From: "Jeff Woods" <woodsj at us.ibm.com> Subject: England/Scotland Pub Tours In approx. one month I will travel with a group to the UK. We will be visiting London and Wolverhampton, England, plus Edinburgh and Ayr, Scotland. The group has placed a tremendous burden on my shoulders to lead the pub tours. They must have faith in me and I don't want to disappoint. In London we will be staying at the Hilton London Olympia Hotel at 380 Kensington High Street. Edinburgh accomodations are at Herlot Watt University. I'm looking for outstanding brewpub/real ale/pub or brewery tour recommendations from you, the most knowledgeable beer collective on the planet. We'll travel mostly by bus so the tube and our legs will be the main transportation mode. There's lots of pub sites such as CAMRA, British Pub Guide, etc. but it's hard to know the geography and what's close by. I also plan to talk to local people and tour guides to see what they recommend. I know there's the Great British Beer Festival at the end of July, which is a possibility. Doc Pivo recently posted to pickup CAMRA's "Good Beer Guide". Are there any UK homebrew groups that can accomodate a Yank with suggestions ? If there are any UK homebrewers willing to meet for a pint I'll be glad to buy. That should spark some interest. If any takers I'll provide exact dates. Jeff Woods Camp Hill, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:33:12 -0400 From: Jim Adwell <jim at jimala.com> Subject: temperature control,temperature control,temperature control Forget about fermenter geometry unless you plan of fermenting 1000s of gallons of beer at a time. Temperature control is the most important consideration, followed closely (IMHO) by convenience; it's nice to be able to open a valve rather than siphon. You might also want to consider that lifting ten gallons of beer safely is next to impossible; one needs to fill and empty big containers in place. I ferment now in a number of 4 gallon plastic buckets, and rack these to a glass carboy for secondary fermentation. I have made several temperature controlled fermentation chambers ( which sounds fancier than they are) out of particle board, plywood, and small portable dehumidifiers. These allow me to have several carboys fermenting at different temperatures at one time. See my brewing pages ( link at the bottom) for details. Most people use refrigerators or freezers with external temp controllers, which seems like the easiest way to go. The temperature controllers are widely available at homebrew stores. The process of making beer is more important than the equipment used, at least at the homebrew level. Put another way, it's what you do that matters, not what you do it in. Cheers, Jim in Central New York Jim's Brewery Pages: http://brewery.jimala.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 04:46:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Temple <danatemple at yahoo.com> Subject: Aroma hops in high gravity wort I have a situation coming up (tomorrow!) where I'll be doing a higher gravity boil than usual, as I'm making a double batch. I can find loads of data on correction factors for IBU calculations when the gravity is high (add more hops!) - but can't find anything on how high gravity will affect aroma / flavour hop performance. My guess is that a similar mechanism will apply, but I'd like to hear from anyone with experience before I risk a batch. Skaal! Dan Temple (Copenhagen, Denmark) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:02:23 +0200 From: "Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3" <Paul.R.Campbell at is.shell.com> Subject: Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe Rich, Sorry I can't help with sources for these, but Sweet Gale and Bog Myrtle are the same thing. See picture at link below.... http://www.bioimages.org.uk/HTML/P132699.HTM Heather grows like weeds 'round these parts, perhaps I could send you some cuttings and/or flowers? I have yet to track down any Bog Myrtle though. I have been planning for some time to hunt some down to plant in the garden - apparently the 'midges' hate it, but possible not as much as I hate them ;> Paul Campbell Glen Esk Scotland. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:08:46 -0400 From: "Walter H. Lewis III" <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com> Subject: RE: Forced Carbonation My experience does not involve soda, but rather soda water. I love club soda and thought a keg of water on tap would be great. What I have figured is that soda and club soda are carbonated at a MUCH hight rate than beer. I've done water at 50 psi with fair results but feel it might want to go even higher. Walt Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:39:55 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: H2O2 Once again, I think that hydrogen peroxide is a strong enough oxidizing agent that it would oxidize wort components BEFORE it would dissociate into O2 and water and therefore would oxidize your wort.....not quite what I'm looking for when I brew. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:41:10 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Wyeast 1338 in Mild ale Phil Ritson writes about using wyeast european in english mild. I recently brewed a batch of Charlie Papazians "Beyond the Ordinary" and I split the batch between the european yeast and the one Charlie recommended; the thames valley yeast. Both yeasts worked well with some subtle flavor differences. The thames valley may have tasted a little smoother. It seemed to accentuate the hops less. The bottom line was I would use either one. Pete in NJ PS: If any one wants the recipe let me know. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:38:09 -0700 (PDT) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: Smoke in Scottish/Scotch Ale What is the basis for allowing smoked malt, especially peated malt, in the style for Scottish/Scotch ales? I have drunk a good many of these, on tap and in bottles, in Great Britian and have never encountered one with a smoky flavor. Could someone share the name(s) of those with smoke components, especially peated malt? My conversations with several brewer's in the north of England and Scotland, via e-mail, indicate that peated malt is not used for beer, only whisky. If there is no basis, other than personal preference, for his to be in the style, why is it? Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:49:35 -0500 From: rlabor at lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Forced Carbonation >From: "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> > >... I've made my first batch of non-beer >(soda for my 8-yr old) thinking it would carbonate in the keg like my >beer does. ... You should be able to carbonate it, but it will take a lot more than beer would. I was easily able to carbonate plain water. I put it into a 2 liter PET bottle, used a carbonator cap and after getting it down close to 32F, I then connected the CO2 and cranked the regulator up around 40PSIG. I shook and shook it and bumped the PET bottle against the wall a few times for about three minutes. The results were actually too much carbonation. So next time I did the same thing for about 1 minute and it was just about right for water. ------ On the subject of H/W fermenters, let me announce my new invention - a variable H/W fermenter. That's right, it's made of a pliable material, and has side baffles that are adjustable. Now the only thing left to determine is the proper time at each H/W ratio. :>) ------ Why bother with hydrogen peroxide, what's wrong with air or just straight oxygen? Ron La Borde Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu http://hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:10:37 -0400 From: "H. Neal Andreae" <cstone at shentel.net> Subject: Fruit Beers Aaargh! Hello fellow Fermentists I don't want to talk about container geometry (My glass and plastic containers work very well, thank you) and adding hydrogen peroxide to my precious wort just flat leaves a bad taste in my mouth (pun intended(and shaking the be-Jesus out of the carboy works perfectly every time, 51at last count and never an FG above 1.014) I do extract w/PM's mostly and my dear and lovely wife wishes me to produce a fruit beer. Good Lord. Cherries no less. My God. And I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with this. What kind of cherries? I prefer not to use that canned mush they sell. I read that adding cherries to the wort above 160F would "set the pectin" and give a permanent haze. Anyone got any tips, do or don't advice? Anything? Oh the Humanity. Yours in Spirits Neal Andreae Near the Blue Ridge Mountains in Upperville, Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:19:56 -0400 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Fermentation Temp For Sure!!! Jim, No question about it in my book. With the extra fridge you can ferment any kind of beer at any temp easily. 80F degree belgians and 45F lagers. With a conical fermentor, you "might" improve your beer. With a 10 Gal CC you might increase your thermal mass thus making your runaway temps even worse. Fermenting at the right temp for your yeast WILL improve your beer. Unless you have a medical reason for not wanting to move around carboys or buckets, I suggest leaving the 10 CC to single guys with bad backs and fat wallets;<) Phil Wilcox Proud owner of 2 fridges, a chest freezer, and 7 fermentor types, none of them conical...yet Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:16:02 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Forced Carbonation "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> wrote from PEI: >The force is no longer with me. I've made my first batch of non-beer >(soda for my 8-yr old) thinking it would carbonate in the keg like my >beer does. So far it's been in the fridge for almost 2 weeks with little >sign of bubbles. The beer attached to the same system is working as >well as it always does. > >Any thoughts? It's a simple soda kit: syrup, water and sugar. I didn't >go with the yeast as I though I wouldn't need to, and I figured I'd get a >better taste... Soda needs more carbonation than beer. I think I must crank the pressure up over 20 psi, then turn it down for dispensing. It always works fine for me. I mean, we're talking simple physics here - solubility of CO2. You could try putting the keg across your knees and rocking it back and forth and listen for the CO2 bubbling in. If there is no carbonation, I suspect a leak. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:45:41 -0400 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Peroxide Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> wrote: > I seem to remember from this discussion several years ago a > convincing argument (AJ?) that H2O2 is such a powerful oxidizer that > it would likely instantly oxidize wort components. I confess to having said this a couple of years ago. I also confess that I have no reference to back it up, but I was told once in a microbiology lab that the oxygen radical production was the mechanism for sanitation by H2O2. I inferred that if the oxygen radical produced didn't combine with another radical and produce oxygen bubbles, it would oxidize whatever it came in contact with first. While I'm pretty sure that wort oxidation is a possiblity, I'm not sure how much it would take to make a difference from a taste perception standpoint. I'm sure I can count on someone to do the research and report back if I'm wrong. (I'd try an inorganic chemistry reference) Dave Harsh Cincinnati, OH Bloatarian Brewing League Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:52:01 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: ginger ale Jamie's question about force carbonating soda made me think that it was time to repost my ginger ale recipe. I just posted it to the Oz Craft Brewing list in response to a request. It's a fairly dry soda. Many recipes call for 5 lbs of sugar. This was adapted from a recipe from Mike O'Brien, manufacturer of pico-Brewing Systems of Ypsilanti, Michigan. I added the cardomom, lemon zest and ascorbic acid (anti-oxidant). I thought I had used some coriander as well, but I guess I didn't. I probably will next time. I made it for our son's wedding reception in our back yard last July, and we went through about 3 gallons. It was very popular. The rest kept well in the fridge as we finished it up over the next few weeks. The sediment made the first few glasses pretty cloudy, although that doesn't bother me. I racked it into a purged keg and got it off most of the sediment. Ingredients for 5 gallons (US), 19 liters: 1 4-ounce (115 g) jar of fresh (not dry) ground ginger (this is a new product around here, you could just peel and macerate fresh ginger root in a blender or food processor with a little water) juice of three lemons zest of one lemon, finely minced 1 tsp (5ml) freshly ground cardomom (don't buy it pre-ground) 3 lbs sugar (1350 g) 1/4 tsp. ascorbic acid 2-1/4 tsp (12 ml) potassium sorbate 5 gallons (19 l) deionized water (or any good quality neutral water) Procedure: Heat flavorings in 1 quart (liter) of water to near boiling, add sugar until dissolved, add to corny keg with rest of ingredients. Chill in fridge and carbonate to 3.5 volumes or even more. After several days, adjust carbonation if necessary, draw off a little until it's somewhat clear, then rack off sludge into another purged and pressurized keg. Be sure to cut off flow as soon as you notice sludge moving through the (hopefully clear) racking hose. This needs a fairly long dispensing hose to serve at this pressure. It should be a highly carbonated drink. If anybody makes this, please report back to HBD. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:53:17 -0700 From: "Echols, Brent" <BEchols at hineshort.com> Subject: Mad River After brewing my third IPA in the last 6 months, I realized that I am addicted to hops. While I've been pleased with the different recipes I've tried, I realized yesterday that I haven't even gotten close to one of my favorite beers, Jamaica Red, from Mad River Brewing. Has anyone seen an all-grain replica of this wonderful beer? I've pretty much found the basic info: OG 1065 FG 1012 IBU 38 (seems quite low...) I just can't figure out what hops/combination of hops they use.. Anyone got an idea? Thanks much.. brent beautiful Pacheco, CA, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:09:07 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: False Bottom Design Kevin asks which false bottom material is better 3/32 on 5/32 centers or stainless steel (window?) screen supported by (ex. barbeque grill) because the screen has a much larger open area. Based on our (Brian Kern and I) numerical models, I can assure you that 3/32 on 5/32 is perfectly adequate. More open area does not buy you anything in terms of extraction. A full area false bottom delivers 99% lautering efficiency. Check out our talk at the AHA NHC conference for more info. We will post the majority of it after the conference in the next couple weeks. Cheers, John John Palmer Monrovia, CA homepage http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:10:24 -0600 From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany at co.el-paso.tx.us> Subject: water analysis 4 free Ed Jones asks about water analysis... Culligan offers a FREE test kit that will give you some good information about your home water supply. Go to www.culligan.com No affiliation, etc. Also, you might have to wait 6-8 weeks or so before the kit appears in your mailbox. But, hey, it's FREE. And its kind of fun to use too. My nephews liked watching the water samples change colors. Ricardo El Paso, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:30:53 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: Milds and 1338/1968 Philip asks about experiences with Wyeast 1338 in Mild. Our suggestions for Milds in order of preference are: Wyeast 1968, 1338, 1318 I love the malty richness and rapid clearing of 1968, and it leaves plenty of residual sugars. It is perfect for a fruity mild, but perhaps not right for a light clean mild. 1338 is a close second, and I have no hesitation using it, but it tends to be less estery, so if fruitiness is a desired component, consider 1318 instead. We use 1338 for psuedo-lagers, it is malty but quite clean at cooler ale temps, and we use it for Koelsch style ales and Mocktoberfests where folks can't get temps low enough for even 2112. You may also wish to consider the dry Safale S-04. It is quite similar, IMHO, and falls somewhere between 1968 and 1338 in maltiness, med flocc, med att. Hope this is useful, Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiis sugant." Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:35:03 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: More old brewing books Brewers: the great geometry debate of 2001 sent me off to my brewing library for a few weeks, seeking solace in some old books while the thread meets its (one can only hope) clinitest-esque demise. So to re-kindle the recent "old brewing books" thread, I thought I'd mention my favourite brewing text: _An Essay on Brewing, Vintage and Distillation Together With Selected Remedies for Hangover Melancholia, or How To Make Booze_, authored and illustrated by John F. Adams, published in 1966. I like it because it is intelligently and wittily written, and chock full of the most terrible advice. I'll quote just one example to give a taste: "Yeast is a subject upon which a nonprofessional shouldn't write, and a professional can't. At least for the service of an amateur brewer he can't. ... If you purchase yeast from a malt shop, or homebrew supply catalogue you will be intimidated. Such outlets naturally want to sell yeast, and will warn you that you must use one 'packet' of yeast for each five gallons you brew. Considering the rate at which yeast cells multiply, this is obvious nonsense." You've come a long way, baby! Drew Avis, inventing the Belgian Stout in Merrickville, Ontario http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:36:35 -0400 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: H2O2 and removing residue in bottles/carboys With regards to H2O2 as an O2 source, what causes H2O2 to release the additional oxygen atom??? 2H2O2 >> 2H2O + O2?? There have been several posts concerning residue in bottles and cleaning the inside of carboys. Being the lazy person I am (but still sanitation concous) I wash my carboys with water that I spray in the neck with pinched vinyl tubing to create a spray to dislodge the big chunks of the Kreussen ring. After rinsing as much as I can get out easily, I pour 1/4C bleach in it and top with cold water. Let it set for three days and dump it. Rinse, and invert to dry. Bottles with a hazy film get the same treatment, except less chlorox of course. I have found a three day exposure to this concentration of Chlorox (NaHCO3?) will remove most any stains. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:51:05 -0700 From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net> Subject: RE; My strawberry Wheat I would think that your efficency would be directly proportional to the lack of filter media available in your mash. I would guess that the mash bed channelized and did not get an efficient rinsing. More conventional grain or rice hulls would provide a better filter bed. Mike Pensinger beermkr at bellatlantic.net http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:00:39 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re: Temperature or Geometry Jim Moeller writes: "What is more important, temperature control during fermentation or fermenters geometry?" You could determine, after 60 years of debate and 2 minutes of well designed experimentation, the 'perfect' geometry for a fermenter, but you can't brew lagers (or ales) in it if the temperature is too high. So, I would recomend buying the less expensive keg fermenter and getting a refrigerator with it. On the other hand, It sounds like your average basement temperature is perfect for ale brewing, so you'd have the extra money for the fancy cylindroconical fermenter. I think the 80F temperature you're measuring may be caused by the yeast, which does produce noticable heat during the height of fermentation. Maybe someone could tell us whether yeast typically cause a 12F or more rise in temperature (it seems high to me). And whether this is something that should be compensated for. In other words, if the fermenter temperature rises 12 degrees above ambient, should the ambient temp be brought down by 12 degrees? Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:07:12 EDT From: Svlnroozls at aol.com Subject: Re: "Scottish" Ale herbs In a message dated 6/19/01 9:10:36 PM, homebrew-request@hbd.org writes: >19 June > > I've seen the following listed in various recipes for "Scottish" Ale. > >Does anybody have any idea where they may be purchased? > >Sweet Gale >Heather Flowers >Bog Myrtle Leaves > > Thank you much for your help. > >Rich Beecher >West Virginia, U.S.A. Rich, as a matter of fact, our local homebrew supply store carries these three herbs plus Yarrow, and several of us in the Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society have brewed with these herbs, some used just the heather others of us used the oter two with the addition of Yarrow. They're old traditional brewing herbs predating the use of hops when brewers would use various herb blends called the "gruit" as we use hops. They are said to have an intoxicating and invigorating effect in brew. Some of our brewers will attest to this. In one brew, after adding the herbs in the boil, we also added more in dry form to the secondary fermenter. They must have carried in some kind of infection, as the beer acquired a tartness akin to an Oud Bruin. In the future I would only add them during the boil. The store where we grabbed our gruit has a website at www.homebeerwinecheese.com and you can probably buy from there, or the shopkeeper might be able to tell you where else you can get them. Cullen Davis Sherman Oaks, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:14:20 From: "RYAN WILLIS" <montanaredeye2 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation This sounds crazy, but presure the Keg to 40 PSI and shake the keg. I have found that Soda is much denser than Beer. Must be all the Sugar? It usally takes one or two times shaking the keg to fully carb the soda. My first batch took 4 weeks at 35 psi to carb root beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:25:57 +0200 From: Hubert Hanghofer <hhanghof at netbeer.co.at> Subject: Re: H2O2 / German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF) Jeff Renner (who seems to be the only HBD-veteran trying to maintain/restore an agreeable, polite climate) wrote in HBD#3664: > I seem to remember from this discussion several years ago a > convincing argument (AJ?) that H2O2 is such a powerful oxidizer that > it would likely instantly oxidize wort components. This is likely > the source of the undesirable flavor/odor reported by Dave Lodgson > via Hans Aikema. Absolutely true. H2O2 does NOT yield the same effects as an equivalent amount of oxygen! That's because the process of H2O2-decomposition initially results in free peroxyhydroxyl or hydroxyl radicals: HOOH-> H. + .OOH or HOOH-> 2 .OH Radicals are molecular fragments with unpaired electrons and thus get a very aggressive, irresistable urge to "copulate". -Imagine a prisoner that has been on viagra prior to his release... Oxidizing effects on alcohols (yielding undesirable aldehydes) and polyphenols are well known and needn't be verified by hobby-experiments. -Except perhaps if you want to reproduce the harsh/stale flavors of some exported czech lagers (hot side aerated in lauter-grants, severely damaged by pasteurization, transport and probably expired). ***** In another post, Jeff suggests to Jens Briesofsky: > One final thing. To supplement HBD from a local source, you might > want to subscribe to UK-HB > http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/uk-homebrew. They tend to brew > mostly ales there, but there are a few pilsner and weizenbier fans, > especially the moderator, Tony Barnsley. Great resource, but may I humbly point at our German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF), since Jenscomes from Germany. http://www.netbeer.co.at/beer/forum/ Posting language is German but we've members from down under in Adelaide to up north in Ottawa. I started the list in 1998 with lots of administrative effort on my local PC. One year ago I got support from Wim Bonis and Armin Teltschik, who arranged for a transfer to a GNU-Mailman listserver, hosted on a powerful Linux machine in Kaiserslautern, Germany. ...community works! Allzeit gut Sud! Hubert Hanghofer, Salzburg, Austria www.netbeer.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:27:03 -0700 From: David Brandt <jdlcr at flash.netdex.com> Subject: Boiling rates Dear HBD'rs, I'm still working on some basics so excuse my beginner questions. When boiling the wort does the kettle need to be on a vigorous boil or is a gentle roll OK? I understand proteins get coagulated at this time, so is there a difference? Also in The Brewmaster's Bible, Snyder refers to an old technique for getting heavy but velvety beers is to boil for 3-4 hours to disolve the proteins back into the wort. Anybody ever do this? Thanks, David Brandt Cloverdale, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:07:41 -0700 (PDT) From: alastair <alastair at odin.he.net> Subject: Re: H2O2 Oxygenation I just got back from the pool store and the pool guy said that calcium hypoclorite was a pretty good oxidizer. What does the board think about pouring in a gallon of swimming pool shock in my next batch to help out my little yeast buddies? ... back into reality mode... I can't imagine why anyone whould think that adding H2O2 to any kind of food grade product is a very wise thing to do. I would imagine that even the smallest concentration would oxidize any thing it came into contact with... even the yeast cells. I spilt some H2O2 on my hand once and watched my skin turn white in a matter of milliseconds... certainly put me off the idea of drinking it! Using H2O2 as a yeast nutrient is the equivalent to heating your house by pouring gasoline on it and putting a match to it. Alastair (still using air as oxygen source for both myself and my yeast buddies) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:47:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Beaverplt <beaverplt at yahoo.com> Subject: Carbonation & water testing I too have noticed a difference between 12 and 22 oz bottles in terms of carbonation. My method is slightly different from Todd's in that I put the priming solution in the bucket first and I use malt instead of sugar. I assumed that larger bottles took longer to carbonate as they always end up with the same amount of carbonation later on. My solution has always been to drink the smaller bottles first. On water testing, I can't tell you what you need to test for but I have a swimming pool and have often taken in a water sample to my local swimming pool service company to have tested. They seem to test for darn near everything and do it while you're waiting. back to lurk mode Oh, one more thing. to David Harsh. Thank you ===== Jerry "Beaver" Pelt That's my story and I'm sticking to it Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:05:36 -0500 From: "2brewers4u" <2brewers4u at home.com> Subject: Pineapple Beer Looking to make pineapple beer for Luau. Has anyone done it, and does it taste ok? Advise Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:11:20 -0500 From: "2brewers4u" <2brewers4u at home.com> Subject: RE:False Bottom Design I use a Sabco SS false screen. It is very heavy gauge, but I have bent it downword with a stuck mash and pump. Otherwise, very good. You can buy from SABCO for a custom fit, or get the same one from movingbrews.com cheaper. Both are excellent choices, but not cheap!! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:19:36 -0700 From: "Echols, Brent" <BEchols at hineshort.com> Subject: Fruit Beer abv I'm getting ready to rack from my primary to secondary on top of a pile of fruit. I've made a similar beer in the past, but took no gravity readings, as I was unsure whether I'd get an accurate reading. My thoughts are, since I have an OG reading (1053), I can take a FG reading before I rack to secondary, mix thoroughly with the fruit, wait an hour or two, and take a second OG. I will then take a second FG right before kegging. Then I just add up the difference in points from the first readings and second readings. Is this a fairly accurate way to figure what the alcohol in the finished beer is? I know that much of the sugar will remain in the fruit, but figure this is the best way to get a "best guess"... Any comments? Thanks much! brent Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:40:07 -0500 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: What is more important temp control or fermentor geometry? That's easy....temperature control is far more important than fermentor geometry, especially on a homebrew scale. Once you have proper temperature control, then you may be able to appreciate any differences caused by fermentor geometry. Without temperature control, why bother with geometry at all? Just my own educated guess, I will not quote scripture and verse to you like some folks like to (and those that do often take the quotes out of context anyway so as to render the comments useless or misleading....but that is a story for another day). Rich Sieben Island lake, IL Return to table of contents
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