HOMEBREW Digest #3700 Sat 04 August 2001

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  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  Brew pub pioneer dead at 73 (TOLLEY Matthew)
  La Fin du Monde ("Alan McKay")
  Maritime Brew Pubs ("Alan McKay")
  Re: Mill Motor ("Drew Avis")
  Kegging ("Dennis Collins")
  Kegging ("Jeff Beinhaur")
  RE: Something to be considered ("Doug Hurst")
  Roller mill motorizing ("Todd M. Snyder")
  re: Relays for RIMS? (Tony Verhulst)
  Water saving wort cooling: success! ("Stuart Strand")
  Source for Waldmeister Syrups ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Monascus purpureus (red rice yeast) (Dave Kerr)
  wort priming vs. krausening (Karen & Troy Hager)
  NIR / MIR spectroscopy (Jan-Willem van Groenigen)
  White plastic and UV light (pursley)
  Autumn Brew Review Festival (David H Berg)
  RE: Kegging, fobbing problems ("Dennis Lewis")
  One other item on kegging.... ("Jeff Beinhaur")
  Halifax Brewpubs ("Alan McKay")
  Re: Relays for RIMS ("Mike Pensinger")
  Motorizing Valley Mills ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  another Halifax brewpub (sortof) ("Alan McKay")
  Poperinge hop pageant ("matt dinges")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 00:40:26 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at home.com> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Bert Grant.... There will be black armbands in my brewpub for a day....if not a week. God Speed, Bert Grant. I know that I owe you a debt that can never be re-paid.... Sadly, Jethro Gump Rob Moline Court Avenue Brewing Company Des Moines, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:32:58 +1000 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: Brew pub pioneer dead at 73 http://archives.seattletimes.nwsource.com/cgi-bin/texis/web/vortex/display?s lug=grantobit02m&date=20010802&query=Bert+Grant Cheers ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:26:01 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: La Fin du Monde Julio mentioned this great beer in a different context, so I thought I would send along the following note about where the name came from. This is clipped directly from an email I sent someone the other day, so my apologies to him if he is reading ... La Fin du Monde from Unibroue The name means "End of the World", and I used to know a guy who worked for the brewery. He told me the name derives as follows. There is a famous Quebec rock star (who is apparantly only famous in quebec because i do not remember his name) who owns 10% of the brewery. When they come up with a new beer at the brewery they get everyone from janitor to president involved in naming it. So the rock star comes in to chat with the president one day to find out how things are going. The president tells him about this awesome new beer they have, but do not yet have a name for it. "It's driving me crazy, we just can't find a good name for it!!!" And so the president apparantly kept going on and on and was really upset about not being able to find a suitable name. As he was ranting the rock star stops him and says "Hold on, it's not the end of the world". And the president snaps back very angrily "But it is, it **IS** 'The End of the World'" And so a lightbulb went off over his head, and the name stuck. - -- - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:40:46 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Maritime Brew Pubs "Well, my father was a bluenose, and his father's father, too." (sorry, can't help breaking out into a round of Stompin' Tom) Hey, Harold, sounds like you'll be going into my old stompin grounds (pun not intended!). Not the best place in the world for a beer geek, but there are a few places I can help you out with. In Halifax the main one is the Granite Brewery, downtown on Barrington St. Actually, it's at the opposite end of Barrington from right downtown, down near the old train station and TUNS University (now part of Dalhousie U, I think). It's a big stone building and is easy to find. If you make it down to the Annapolis Valley in the area of Acadia U, you can go to Paddy's. They have one in Kentville and a new one 10 km up the road in Wolfville, where Acadia is. I strongly recommend this neck of the woods and if you do go down this way please feel free to email me for recommendations on where to go and what to see. Same applies if you are down New Glasgow or Antigonish way. Anyway, there are some big political reasons why I am reluctant to go back to Paddy's, but the beers are pretty good as long as you don't expect the "Hefeweizen" to taste like the name suggests it should (they don't use a hefeweizen yeast). And the food is very good, too. The new place in Wolfville does not have the same atmosphere as the old place, so I'd recommend the latter over the former, which kind of reminds me of McDonald's inside - blah! Politics aside, Paddy's is worth a visit for sure. Since I've been out of those parts for some time now, I've emailed a few friends as well as my dad to see what else there is, and will report back to the list as soon as I hear something. cheers, -Alan - -- - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 12:40:52 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Mill Motor Colby Fry asks about motorizing his Valley Mill, with questions based on an article he read in Zymurgy. As a fellow lone brewer in a tiny town, and author of said article, I'll take a stab at some of Colby's questions: 1) Sheave size: it's not the size that matters, it's the way you use it. In this case, it's the ratio between the sheaves that matters, based on the speed of the motor. I used a 1725 RPM furnace fan motor salvaged from a neighbour's basement (no, it wasn't attached to his furnace). To get it down to ~300 RPM, you need a 1:6 ratio, or 1.5" sheave on the motor and a 9" sheave on the mill. (And if you read the article carefully, I too was only able to find an 8" sheave, and that's what I used). So find a motor first, and then worry about the sheave size. Anything over 1/4 HP should work fine. 2) I don't think I recommended particle board, I just said I used it, because I found some in the garage. It's easy to work with and cheap, and so far none has cracked off into the milled grain (that I can tell, anyway). I originally had cut the base out of a piece of countertop, but that sucker was heavy and I could tell it would be unweildy when I had a motor and the mill attached to it. Good luck w/ your project, Drew - -- Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario Visit Strange Brew with Drew: http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:51:56 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Kegging Denis in Beechgrove writes of his keg carbonation woes. Not that I'm an expert or anything, but perhaps I can help you a little. For most of the beers that I brew, 10-12 PSI just about right for the carbonation at 35-40 F. This gives a nice head for most "normal" beers (Pale Ale and Porter are what I have in there now). However, unless you are using actual beer faucets (faucets with tap handles) with several feet of actual "beer line", don't even try to dispense the beer at 10-12 PSI (you can guess what will happen). The faucets and beer line add a significant pressure drop for the 12 PSI beer so that by the time it's actually coming out of the tap, it is actually dispensing at 1-3 PSI. So, if you are like most homebrew kegging folks, you have some plastic tubing with a picnic type faucet attached to your keg. Neither of these devices adds any appreciable pressure drop to the beer coming out of the keg. So what I do is store the beer at 10-12 PSI. When it comes time to draw a glass, close the gas line to the keg and pull up on the pressure relief valve on the lid of the keg until most of the pressure comes out. Open the picnic tap into your glass; if it gushes out, stop and bleed a little more pressure off, if nothing comes out, crank the regulator down to 1-3 PSI and open the gas line up. What you want is a nice slow-steady flow. Once there is 1-3 PSI pressure in the keg, the beer will come out at a reasonable flow and will be carbonated at the 10-12 PSI that at which you stored it. You can leave the beer at this 1-3 PSI for the whole night until you are done drinking, then before you go to bed, just crank up the pressure back to the 10-12 PSI to store the beer until next time. This method does waste some CO2, but unless you have 10 PSI resistance in your line, you will never be able to store the beer and serve it at the same pressure (unless you really like near flat beer). Any other ideas out there? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:24:13 -0400 From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> Subject: Kegging With all of the questions and comments concerning kegging let me again mention some of my techniques. The key is to make sure you have a balanced system. Let me also mention that I mostly go for bitters, pale ales and an occasional lager/pilsner so I can't comment about all the different carbonation levels of various styles. The brew master at our local micro (John Trogner of Troeg's) suggests that in order to maintain the proper level of carbonation in their beers (of which I usually have a couple of kegs of, Mmmmmm) I should keep them at approx. 14 PSI. At this level the proper length of the draft line should be about 6 feet long. So I have a modified chest freezer with a three tap tower mounted in the lid and a picnic tap is available inside the freezer. I have my CO2 input split four ways. All four draft lines are 6 feet in length. This IMHO makes for a very balanced system and provides a perfect pour nearly everytime. If I do get any extra foaming (never excessive) it's usually due to either temperature variations in the serving glass compared to the beer or that a keg is getting close to kicking. That said the other time I notice any problems are when my taps, lines and faucets need cleaned. Have you ever seen the crap that builds up inside your faucet? If not then maybe now is a good time to clean them. As for force carbonating (which I always do) I take the simple, albeit patient approach. After kegging my home brew I purge the remaining head space and then simply hook up one of the four CO2 lines at the normal serving pressure. Usually in a weeks time I have a perfectly carbonated beer. Of course I too have done the shaking of the keg and forcing copious amount of CO2 method but as long as I can be patient my easy method seems to work the best. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:50:09 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: RE: Something to be considered Alan Monaghan forwarded a message from the Oz beer forum from no other than Graham Sanders which seemed to be encouraging the pirating/cracking of Promash and Brewers Workshop. <Rant on> Come on! These programs are painstakingly written by homebrewers for homebrewers. They are beyond excellent pieces of software for a very fair price. Is 25 bucks really too much? Sometimes I think it's not enough! (Ok Jeffery, don't take this as a reason to raise the price). The point is, this software has provided *way* more than its cost, in value to my brewing experience. I am personally offended that any homebrewer would consider pirating it. Those who do are only hurting the entire hobby and eventually themselves by doing so. Our hobby is hard enough to make a living with (retailing) as it is. Do you really think that these programmers are anything like Microsoft et. al.? I mean if Promash was $400 bucks and Jeffery Donovan was the richest man in the world I might feel differently. But, at the minimal fee that is charged for it, and the incredible help it is, anyone who uses it without paying should be ashamed of themselves. I hope to never again hear from the likes of Graham Sanders on this forum. <a/Rant off> Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 10:59:27 -0400 From: "Todd M. Snyder" <tmsnyder at buffalo.edu> Subject: Roller mill motorizing Hi Colby, Just some data points for motorizing your mill. I built a two roller grain mill with about 4 inches of crushing width and motorized it twice. The first motor I used was a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm el-cheapo motor, V-belt driven with a ~1.5 inch pulley to a ~15 inch pulley (10:1 reduction) . The tension on the belt was provided by the weight of the motor hanging on it, so it wasn't that great a setup. It worked only marginally well even after narrowing the milling area down to a 2 inch slit (with duct tape, of course!). My definition of marginally working is that occasionally it would bind up on the grain, so you had to baby-sit it while it did its thing and give it a spin if it stopped. This was unacceptable. The second setup used a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm good quality motor (big capacitor!) hooked with spider flex couplings to a 10:1 gear reduction box. This configuration works well; no binding and will start-up with grain in the hopper over the full 4-5 inches of roller width. I guess the moral of this story is that a roller mill with about 2 inches of roller width should work well with a good quality 1/3 hp, 1725 rpm motor and good 10:1 reduction resulting in about 170 rpm. However, if you're going to spend the $ for a 1/3 hp motor, you might as well pay the small amount more for the 1/2 hp . It's worth it just to hear that sucker start up with a hopper full of grain without so much as a flinch! You can use whatever you're comfortable with to mount it, but I don't see any problem with particle board as long as it doesn't get wet. I used 3/4 inch plywood to mount mine. As far as pulleys, I don't think you want a sheave, those have either a bushing or bearings in the center for free spinning; not much good for driving a mill unless your using it to tension the belt or something. If you want a big diameter V-belt pulley, I've picked up a few from the side of the road (I just can't drive by them!) and you can have one for the cost of shipping. I'm getting sick of moving them around! Todd Snyder Buffalo, NY >I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on the type/model of motor that I should use as well as, the type of sheave (pulley). >I think that Valley recommends 300 rpm for a good crush.Also, Zymurgy recommends that you use particle board for the base. Wouldn't >particle board eventually crack off into the crushed grain? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 11:03:45 -0400 From: Tony Verhulst <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: re: Relays for RIMS? > Another question regarding RIMS. I want to be sure my brewery > electronics can handle the 1,600 watts my ultra low watt density > element will generate. > > I'm using a Johnson Controls thermostat and the info says it will > only handle 10 amps of inductive load at 110V. So, I'll be best off to > use a relay & have the thermostat trip the relay & run that directly > from the GFI. I've heard of people using solid state relays & that > would be small & convenient. My Ranco controller also handles upto about 1600 watts but my problem was even worse - I'm driving a 4500 watt heating element at the full 240 volts. I solved the problem with solid state power relays (about US$15 each). The only issue that you'll then need to deal with is supplying the 3-11 volts DC trigger voltage for the relays, but this is simple. See a picture and description at http://www.world.std.com/~verhulst/RIMS/panel_001.htm. I would stay away from the mechanical relays, if I were you. Tony Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:20:08 -0700 From: "Stuart Strand" <sstrand at u.washington.edu> Subject: Water saving wort cooling: success! A couple months ago I posted a query about how to cool ten gallons of wort without using tap water in my counterflow wort cooler. I finally have it working now. A submersible pump recirculates water through the counterflow wort cooler and through an evaporative air cooler. The air cooler consists of an 8 in duct fan blowing air across a waterfall produced by a header pipe drilled with numerous small holes. I had hoped that this arrangement on its own would be sufficient to cool the wort, but it would only get the wort to about 95 to 100 F. In desperation I added a pre cooling coil for the hot wort before it entered the counterflow chiller. This coil was placed in the air stream as it came out of the recirculation water cooler. It only resulted in an additional <5 F cooling. Adding ice to the recirculating water reservoir didn't help since a whole load of ice from my refrigerator's icemaker rapidly melted before a third of the wort was cooled. Finally I added another coil for the wort as it emerged from the counterflow chiller. This final coil was placed in a bucket of ice water. Success! Now I can achieve cooled wort temperatures of about 74 F. One load of ice from my refrigerator's icemaker is sufficient for a 10 gallon batch. In summary, I am able to cool 10 gallon of boiling wort to about 74 F in 20 minutes, requiring only about two gallons of recirculating water (can be reused) and a couple gallons of ice. Downsides: noisy, expensive, complicated. Stuart Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:22:41 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Source for Waldmeister Syrups Richard Foote asked about sources for Woodruff syrup for Berliner Weisse - Both the Red (Himbeer or Raspberry) and Green (Waldmeister or Woodruff) are carried by GermanDeli.com P.O. Box 92773 Southlake TX 76092 877-437-6269 http://www.germandeli.com/GoebberSyrups.html This source was found by Don Lake - thanks Don (both George Perrin and I got a bottle of each type from German Deli and they were very nice to deal with). hope this helps, Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:39:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Dave Kerr <dave_kerr2001 at yahoo.com> Subject: Monascus purpureus (red rice yeast) I was given some dried red rice yeast by an out of town friend and have a small trial batch fermenting (in its 3rd day, quite active). To 1 quart cooked Basmati rice I added about 1.5 tablespoons dried monascus purpureus and 1.5 quarts filtered water. Very few sanitation precautions were taken - the water was run through a Brita and dumped into the saucepan with the rice and yeast at about 75F - as I intend to consume the results in fairly short order. Has anyone here any experience with this yeast strain? The only information sources I've found on the Web relate to its health benefits, or are industrial scientific abstracts that appear to be more concerned with optimal pigmentation extract. If the wine proves palatable, I'd like to propogate the yeast myself, and am curious about preferred culture media, storage recommendations, etc. Any old-world Chinese recipes for the left-over mash would also be appreciated. Dave 'LDL 175' Kerr Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 10:18:18 -0700 From: Karen & Troy Hager <thager at smcoe.k12.ca.us> Subject: wort priming vs. krausening I have been reading with interest the various discussions about wort priming and krausening going on this summer. As a homebrewer who does not filter I can't see the difference in these two techniques in regards to the end product. The difference that I see is that with krausening, you are adding fermenting wort with the yeasties up and already doing their job... and with wort priming (and any priming for that matter) your yeast has been sitting around for a week or two and it will take them a bit longer to get up to speed. So I am guessing that the krausened beer will finish more quickly than the primed beer... But, I'm sure we are only talking a few days here so who cares? I guess my question is: Why go to the hassle of timing your next brew session to correspond to when you need to krausen your last batch (or, some have mentioned, adding yeast to collected wort, waiting for it to come up to full krausen and then pitching this into your conditioned beer)... when you can get the same results from wort priming? Wort priming just seems a whole lot easier. Am I missing something here? Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 11:15:06 -0700 From: Jan-Willem van Groenigen <groenigen at ucdavis.edu> Subject: NIR / MIR spectroscopy Hi all, I realize this posting is a bit off-topic, but it's too hot out here to brew, so I have to do something to keep me busy. For my work, I have been playing around with mid-infrared (MIR) and near infrared (NIR) spectroscopes for the last couple of weeks. We are using them for agronomy-related stuff, but I was just wondering if these machines are also used for useful, i.e. beer-related, analyses. They are used all the time for analysis of plant material, so I could imagine that people use them to determine hop quality or something like that. Anybody have a reference? Thanks, Jan-Willem. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 13:23:38 -0500 From: pursley at webzone.net Subject: White plastic and UV light Dan, Yes indeed, UV light can skunk your beer through white plastic! I lost my very first batch of homebrew that way 7 years ago. I put my plastic fermenter in a spot where sunlight hit it for about an hour a day. When I opened it up, it smelled very bad. It went down the drain right away. Fortunately, I persevered and my second batch was good. It's the only skunky batch I ever made. Jeff Pursley Bixby, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 13:53:47 -0500 From: David H Berg <bergbrew at juno.com> Subject: Autumn Brew Review Festival The Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild, in conjunction with the Minneapolis Downtown Council is please to announce the First Annual Autumn Brew Review. The event will take place at Peavy Plaza, Downtown Minneapolis on September 8, 2001 from 1-7 PM. Tickets are available through http://www.ticketworks.com For only $20, you will be able to sample over 100 different beers from 28 of the finest breweries in the Midwest. In addition, you will receive a tasting glass commemorating the event. We'll also have food vendors on hand selling their wares, while live bands perform on the sound stage. A list of participating breweries may be found at http://www.mncraftbrew.org Cheers! David Berg President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild Head Brewer, Water Tower Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:10:29 -0400 From: "Dennis Lewis" <dblewis at lewisdevelopment.com> Subject: RE: Kegging, fobbing problems > figured out the trick to non-foaming beer. I use both a single-tap > kegerator and a fridge with a few kegs with picnic taps. I keep the kegs > at around 40 degrees and use 3/16" ID beer line. Everytime I wait more > than just a few minutes, the beer I pour is foamy and has little carbonation, > even though I dispense at 10 pounds. I use about 10 feet of hose to provide A bit of background info first: My set-up is a fridge with four cornies, hole drilled thru the side with the beer lines (3/16") fed thru an adjoining wall to the bar. CO2 set around 7 psi. The room the fridge is in is around 55-58F all the time (can you say 'real ale'?). About 4 feet of the 7' lines are much warmer than 45F. My theory and work-around: The beer that sits in the lines becomes warmer and therefore cannot hold the CO2 in solution. An initial blast of foam is almost guaranteed. Also, beer tends to have foam-inertia. Beer that is foaming tends to stay foamy. My workaround is to pour a an ounce or two, either dump or chug it, then fill the glass. By the end of the first glass the faucet is also cold and subsequent glasses fill with no excessive foaming. If I'm planning to fill a growler, I first pour a full glass to chill the faucet to prevent too much foam. I also temporarily drop the pressure a bit, and that helps keep the turbulence down. I also have a hand free to deal with that first glass too. If you have a Rapids catalog, you'll notice that they put a lot of attention on keeping the beer lines and faucets chilled. There are cold blocks that have glycol lines built-in that are sized for faucet shanks or pass-thru fittings for forced-air chilling. Not only are you keeping the beer at proper serving temp, but it keeps the beer in condition. Just my $0.02. Dennis Lewis Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:46:17 -0400 From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> Subject: One other item on kegging.... One other item I thought of when it comes to too much "foam" in kegged beer is to make sure all of you fittings are tight. I've had instances where I didn't have a good seal on the CO2 connection to a corny keg. In addition to using up your CO2 you may end up with over carbonated beer cause your regulator is constantly try to apply more CO2 due to the leak. If it's a major leak then you'll just lose your CO2 but if it's minor enough to just affect the regulator a little bit then your precious beer will be constantly flushed with more and more CO2. OK, two posts in one day. I need to stop and have a beer. What a great job I have to be able to sit in my office on a Friday afternoon and be able to enjoy a cold one. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:58:43 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Halifax Brewpubs Harold, One buddy of mine sent me the following : Rogues Roost -> Spring Garden at (Queen I think) Granite Brewery -> Barrington at (South I think) Propellor Brewery -> Gottigen at (??) (in the north end ) Note that the "North End" is a bit rougher of an area, but right on the main drag Gottigen (sp?) is perfectly safe. Propellor makes some extremely good beers which are available at the NSLC in bottles as well. I am unfamiliar with the "Rogues Roost", but you should check www.pubcrawler.com to see what it says. cheers, -Alan - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:32:21 -0700 From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: Relays for RIMS I use Solid State relays on my system and am quite happy with them. As to where to get them I bought mine on Ebay. If you are interested I have some extras we could work a deal for I am sure. You will need at least a 15 Amp rating assuming you are running that element on 120V. Mike Pensinger beermkr at bellatlantic.net http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:21:19 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: Motorizing Valley Mills Colby asks about motorizing a Valley Mill with more than a drill... FWIW, a more technically oriented person than I hooked up Paddock Wood's in-store mill to a salvaged satellite dish motor (remember when TV sat dishes were as wide as your garage?). He was able to hook it up directly with no pulleys, we use a small rubber spider assembly to directly drive it. I know he had to remove an automatic switch that changed the motor direction. It is a DC motor, so we have a transformer. We can also reverse direction to clear out the rollers. Unfortunately, I don't know more than that, handy data like exact RPM, electrical specs of the motor etc. Valley Mill says that the mill max's out at 600 RPM, but at 300 RPM it will crush about 5 lbs / minute. I estimate our RPM at about 200. I imagine if one could find an old dish motor they wouldn't be too expensive, and it won't require expensive gearing or bulky and potentially dangerous pulleys. It's an idea anyway... cheers, Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiis sugant." Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:37:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: another Halifax brewpub (sortof) There is apparantly a "brewpub" down on the waterfront in Historic Properties that has decent beer if you can get beyond the fact that it is in a foodcourt (though being in Historic Properties don't entirely picture a shopping mall here. It's outsidish and on the wharf). >From another friend : there's a mini-brewpub in a newish (3 yrs old?) high-end foodcourt on the waterfront, though. the court is called The Waterside, and it's worth going to. They've got a red, a brown (porter?), a stout and (I think) an IPA. I recall the brown being quite nice... Sorry this is in dribs and drabs ... takes up almost the same bandwidth either way, though. Don't breath the "sea air" too deeply down there on the wharf as Halifax is one of the world's few major cities with absolutely no sewage treatment. So don't plan on diving down to the crater created by the famous Halifax Explosion ;-) Though there is some very good diving not far from halifax in just about any direction, including inland. cheers, -Alan - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 01:31:39 From: "matt dinges" <matt_dinges at hotmail.com> Subject: Poperinge hop pageant Hello folks! I'm a new subsciber and first time poster. Been brewing about 2 years, just went all-grain and have 3 batches under my belt, but this question isn't really about brewing per se. People keep saying that traffic is slow, so...I wanted to find out how well travelled people are here. I'm planning on going to Poperinge for their trennial (sp?) hop pageant in Sept. 2002. I was wondering if anybody has been there and/or to the pageant and could give me ANY information on it. I have sent an email to the local tourism board and they will be sending me info, but I was hoping for some personal accounts. I did visit Belgium for about 3-4 days back in 1998 while traveling so I'm familiar with a few cafes and such. I'm also watching that Kolsch topic as I'd like to possibly go there as well, but Dusseldorf seems more likely. Any input would be appreciated, private emails are fine. Cheers! MATT Return to table of contents
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