HOMEBREW Digest #3790 Sat 17 November 2001

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  Re: Temperature Control in Oz (David Lamotte)
  Triticale for making beer? ("Bret Mayden")
  White Labs poster in BYO ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Cider or moonshine? ("Gene")
  RE: Gas Piping ("Dennis, Scott")
  Re: Turbinado Q's ("Larry Bristol")
  Re:  False bottom material ("Dennis Collins")
  Re: Speaking of the stoves (Jeff Renner)
  Sour is my outlook... (Pat Babcock)
  RE: Gas Piping ("R. Schaffer-Neitz")
  Perf'ed Plastic (mohrstrom)
  English Lessions ("Dan Listermann")
  Re: Cider sweetening ("Bill Frazier")
  Renner clone (Paul Mahoney)
  Cider Sweetening (Richard Foote)
  keg fridge (Brian Lundeen)
  Symbiosis (Brian Lundeen)
  expensive brew ("steve lane")
  Re: Yeast Starters ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Re: Speaking of the stoves ("B.R. Rolya")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:21:25 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Temperature Control in Oz Adam (a fellow Oz-CBD member) was repsonding to Lyle (a fellow Ozzie) about controlling temperatures down under. There is also a couple of articles on the Oz Craftbrewer web site (http://www.craftbrewer.org). One by Graham Sanders shows how to use a cheap timer to approximate temperature control. There is also an orginal design by Arnie Wierenga which allows you to build you own. If these 2 articles are not suitable, perhaps you could ask your question on the Oz CraftBrewer Digest (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CraftBrewing) Best of luck, David Lamotte Newcastle, Australia Where I don't know how to get to Jeff Renner .... I would prefer that he finds me so that I could buy him a beer! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 04:54:37 +0000 From: "Bret Mayden" <brmayden at hotmail.com> Subject: Triticale for making beer? Mark Tumarkin wrote (Subject: re: husk or no husk, that's the question): <SNIP> I got this info from a member of our brew clu; Dr. Bob "It doesn't have enough Hops" Bates. Dr. Bob is a member of the UF faculty, in the Ag dept. doing fermentation science. He's specializes in wine (which is a bitch here in FL) but has brewed using many of the above grains. He is most enthusiastic about triticale, saying that he's convinced it can make as good a beer as you can make with barley. <SNIP> OK, I want to try it. Where do I find triticale? Bret A. Mayden Oklahoma City OK brmayden at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 00:13:55 -0500 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: White Labs poster in BYO I just got my copy of Brew Your Own today, and I want to say thank you to the folks at BYO and White Labs for the absolutely gorgeous poster that they put in this month's issue. I intend to matte it, frame it, and put it on the wall of my brewery! If you haven't seen it, go get a copy and take a look. The magazine's really good this month, too, at least as much as I've been able to read between calls. Makes me glad I subscribed! (NAJASCYYY) Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:57:12 -0600 From: "Gene" <gcollins at geotec.net> Subject: Cider or moonshine? Jamie of PEI writes: "As it turns out, it is potent and dry. No, that's not it. It's a genuine porch-crawler and is down right sour. Is there any way to sweeten it up?Can I salvage it just by adding sugar or will it just keep fermenting?" I laughed my ass off for twenty minutes before I was capable of writing this! The mental image is hilarous. Anyway, I would suggest using a wine sweetener such as Brew King's wine conditioner (yada, yada, yada) that contains potassium sorbate (fermentation inhibitor) and sucrose (sugar). Use it sparingly to bring the cider up to a drinkable level, say two ounces or less per five gallon batch. Good Luck! Gene Collins Broken Arrow, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:29:19 -0600 From: "Dennis, Scott" <scott.dennis at pioneer.com> Subject: RE: Gas Piping We just had a gas fire place installed, and they used a high grade flexible tubing to connect the fire place to the gas line. You can come look at the tubing/line if you want to get an idea what it looks like and what kind of fixtures they used. Or, just go to the fire place store and pretend that you are looking and ask what kind of systems they use. - -----Original Message----- From: Van Zante, Bill Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 3:37 PM To: Vernon, Mark; HBD (E-mail) Cc: 'founders at iowabrewersunion.org' Subject: RE: Gas Piping Mark, Copper and natural gas is a bad idea to use for long term situations like building a house or plumbing a dryer. Natural gas attacks the copper and over time cause leaks. It's the sulfur agents they use to make natural gas stink that causes the corrosion. For your application you could probably get by with copper provided you plumb in the appropriate shutoffs at the source and "drain" the system when finished. That can be done by closing the feed valve and leaving the valve to your burners open. I've used high-pressure tubing for my burners and have had no problems. Bill - -----Original Message----- From: Vernon, Mark Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 3:22 PM To: HBD (E-mail) Cc: 'founders at iowabrewersunion.org' Subject: Gas Piping I am looking at upgrading my rims from one propane burner to 3. Around here for natural gas piping they use black pipe - not very easy to work with for a DIY'er. My question is can I hard pipe my brew stand with copper pipe - a much easier product for me to work with. Mark Vernon, MCSE, MCT Sr. Network Engineer Global Infrastructure Pioneer, A DuPont Company EMail:Mark.Vernon at Pioneer.com Office:(515)270-4188 Cell: (515) 360-1729 I have simply tried to do what seemed best each day, as each day came. -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:55:49 -0600 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Turbinado Q's In HBD #3788 Steve Bruns queries: > I'm looking to up the gravity a bit in a Northern Brewer "Extra Pale > Ale" kit (6# Gold US syrup - 1# DWC Caramel Pilsner specialty grains) > and am thinking about using 1# of turbinado. Any thoughts/ comments on > either the amount or type of sugar? > I've checked my 3 brewing books and all I've found about turbinado is in > Kunath's "Fearless Brewing". The adjunct and sugar profile chart says > "Turbinado - Small amounts used in some pale ales and strong ales." "Turbinado" refers to raw, unrefined sugar. It is the same thing as "treacle". It still contains impurities that give it a certain amount of interesting character. Essentially, it contains molasses, or at least, if these impurities were extracted, we would call the result molasses. Personally, I am not a fan of adding sugar simply to raise gravity. I would recommend using dry malt extract (DME) instead. Adding sugar will increase the amount of fermentables, resulting in a beer that is higher in alcohol, but it does not (in general) add any flavor or body to the end product. Adding DME will increase flavor and body as well as alcohol, and will produce a better beer than adding sugar. This having been said, the interesting character of the impurities in turbinado DO add some flavor to the end product. There is at least one very good use of turbinado sugar in brewing! I have found it to be an indispensable ingredient in making a beer similar to Theakston's Old Peculier. (See my recipe at "http://www.doubleluck.com/things/brewery/peculier.html".) > Using a Wyeast American ale #1056 smack pack - Will this be enough yeast > or should I pitch 2 packs? IMHO there is not enough yeast in those smack packs for pitching, even if you pitched 4 or 5 of them! But there is simple way to solve this problem. Smack the pack 24-48 hours before your brewing session. Once it poofs up (this is the "technical" term), dissolve some of that DME in about a pint of water (make it about the same gravity as you anticipate for your beer), boil it for a few minutes, put it in a (sanitized) jar that you can fit with an airlock, cool it to pitching temperature, and add the yeast. VIOLA! You just made a yeast starter that will contain plenty of active yeast when you need it. And having mastered this technique, you should call yourself an advanced brewer! :-) Larry Bristol Bellville, TX (there are no coordinates for heaven) http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 09:00:15 -0500 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: False bottom material Fermentos asks about false bottom material. Don't forget your name on your next post. Rennerian coordinates are optional. I too mash in a rectangular picnic cooler and have had really good success using the tubular type slotted manifold. I think the slotted manifolds work better than the false bottoms (at least in rectangular coolers). I don't think it's a function of % open area, it's more a function of open area geometry. But for every vote for slotted manifolds, there's a vote for false bottoms as well. The slotted manifold will be cheaper to make. My data point says: With 10 gallon all-grain batches, mashing in a 50 qt picnic cooler, with wide open recirculation with a pump (3/8" lines) for the entire mash duration, a slotted manifold works flawlessly. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN [3554 furlongs, 3.18 Radians] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 08:54:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Speaking of the stoves "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> wrote from Chicago: >Have others had this problem? What are your solutions? Like I said, propane burners in the garage! ;-) Actually, some preventative medicine helps. I used to lay a sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil across the stove top and down into the reflector pans under the elements (or burners). This did a pretty good job of protecting the stove top and made cleanup of boilovers and spills easier. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:14:01 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Sour is my outlook... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to yout lager... Jamie of PEI writes: "As it turns out, it is potent and dry. No, that's not it. It's a genuine porch-crawler and is down right sour. Is there any way to sweeten it up?Can I salvage it just by adding sugar or will it just keep fermenting?" I usually sweeten my ciders with some natural fresh apple juice. First, add Bill Pfeiffer's Blend to inhibit further fermentation. (For those unaware of it, Bill Pfeiffer's Blend is 1/2 t Potassium sorbate and one Campden tablet per five gallons. For those unaware of him, Bill Pfeiffer was a great brewer and a great man. He left us May 2000.) Then, add unsweetened apple juice to the cider, blend, sample. When to your liking, you're done. SInce your cider is finished, it makes little difference whether or not the apple juice you add contains preservatives, but it is important that you LIKE the flavor of the juice. Also, I use juice rather than fresh pressed "cider" from an orchard because the juice is not cloudy, so neither will be your cider. You may also need to add an acid blend (I use a wine acid testing kit to determine what to do here - I bought it at my local HBS, packaged by LD Carlson), but the above will help nicely! - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 09:18:47 -0500 From: "R. Schaffer-Neitz" <rschaff at ptd.net> Subject: RE: Gas Piping For short runs around here (central PA), such as out of the back of a gas fireplace, people use stainless flex hose (NOT the mesh stuff with the rubber inside that you use to make takeup tubing for false bottoms). I would imagine that this would be very easy to work with and would not present you with the potential corrosion problems described by Bill Van Zante (though if you're using propane as you indicated not NG, copper may not pose that kind of problem). Anyway, I suggest you check with a place that sells gas fireplaces and stoves and see what they use. Bob Schaffer-Neitz Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 09:15:03 -0500 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Perf'ed Plastic "fermentos" asks: > I am looking for the plastic perforated false bottom > material. I need a large sheet about 2' x 4'. Two (actually three) sources leap to mind. US Plastics (www.usplastic.com) and McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) Also, American Material Resources (www.amrsales.com/mcmaster.htm ) claims to sell identical M-C items at a discount.. Look for polypropylene perforated sheets. You may have to buy 4x8 sheets, though. US Plastics is a recommended source for brewing items from Gamma Seal Buckets for grain storage, to Norprene tubing for your brew system. Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 09:15:47 -0500 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: English Lessions pub n. A meeting place where people attempt to achieve advanced states of incompetence by repeated consumption of fermented vegetable drinks. Kryton Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:53:45 -0600 From: "Bill Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Cider sweetening Jamie- Let the cider clear. If you can chill the cider (like a lagaring beer) this will speed the process. Rack off any sediment. If the cider is in a carboy you can shine a flashlight thru the cider to check clarity. The light beam will be invisable when the cider is totally clear. If you can see any trace of light let it sit longer, racking when you see a sediment. When you are ready to bottle add table sugar until it's sweet enough to taste. Add 1.25grams per gallon potassium sorbate and 50ppm sulfur dioxide (0.3364grams per gallon potassium metabisulfite). You can use Campden tablets in lieu of K meta but I prefer the straight chemical. Bottle, cork or cap and after several weeks to settle down it should be ready to drink. Next time you make cider use a yeast that's overly sensitive to cold. Stop fermentation when the cider is still sweet to your liking. Use near freezing temperatures, multiple rackings and sulfite addition to halt the yeast action. Repeat above steps to finish. It will retain more apple flavor done this way. Some might call this apple wine. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:12:52 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Mahoney <pmmaho at yahoo.com> Subject: Renner clone Brewers: I wanted to brew a beer for the Christmas holidaysthat our Coors/Miller/BudLite friends would drink when they visit our home. I know that they will probably not like my Porter or my Stout! So I decided to try Jeff Renner's McSorley's Irish Ale recipe; Jeff usually publishes this recipe every Spring in the HBD for St. Patrick's Day. Brew day was 11/10. It is supposed to be a better irish Ale than Killian's. But being a homebrewer I could not resisit changing the recipe! Here it is: 5.5# Vienna 1# 2-row .5# Wheat .5# flaked barley .75#flaked maize .75# 120L crystal .5 oz Crystal pellets 7.4% 60 minutes .5 oz. Mt. Hood 4.6% plugs at 30 minutes .5 oz Mt. Hood at 15 minutes Wyeast Irish Ale yeast (third brew for this yeast, I had saved it from the bottom of the secondary of a previous batch). I anticipated 1.046 from ProMash (75% efficiency); but again, I could not resist tweaking this recipe, even during brewing! So I added some (4 0z)Malto-Dextrin during the boil. It tasted thin, so I thought it needed a little body. So now I have a very cloudy beer (haze from the malto-dextrin?), a little too hoppy, and not reddish in color. Rather it is a dirty, light brown color. I had hoped that the 120L crystal would result in a more reddish hue. I ended up with 1.049 SG/OG. It is now 1.016, and I am ready to transfer to secondary for finishing. I know that Jeff's recipe calls for EKG or Fuggles, but I also wanted a more 'American' Irish Ale; kind of a cross between an Irish Ale and a CAP or CACA (using German hops--Mt. Hood being an Americanized version of German hops). Did I tweak too much? Any suggestions on what I could do to get a more reddish color? How can I clear this beer? (I know, do not use malto-dextrin!) I have never used gelatin before, but is that a good option?. Will a long (2 week?), cool (it is around 62'F in my basement)secondary clear this beer? I will have to force carbonate to get it ready in time for Xmas parties in early December, so a long, sugar-based carbonation will not work. Thanks! Paul Mahoney Roanoke, Va. Star City Brewers Guild Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:54:42 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Cider Sweetening Jamie writes regarding the sweetening of hard cider: >Started with a high gravity (1.060) , ended with a new-to-me record low >gravity (<0.090). Not at all usual, in fact, it's expected. >As it turns out, it is potent and dry. No, that's not it. It's a genuine >porch-crawler and is down right sour. Is there any way to sweeten it up? Again, to be expected, especially if it has undergone malo-lactic fermentation. You can sweeten by using wine conditioner, which is a combination of potassium sorbate and sugar syrup. The potassium sorbate is key in preventing renewed fermentation. Another method is to add potassium sorbate yourself with a sweetener. Add the amount per gallon as recommended on the package. I seem to remember it being 1/4 teasp. per gallon but don't trust me. I use the latter method with frozen apple juice added right from the can as a sweetener. One can per 5 gallons produces an off-sweet flavor. Two cans produces a noticeable sweet result (to my tastes anyway). Experiment with it to your liking. If you want to serve it draft style, keg and force carbonate. I've noticed, at least on one occasion, an off metallic taste when I've served it on draught. I think this was produced from the high acid content reacting with the brass innards of my faucet. I switched to a plastic "cobra" faucet to counter this. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:41:38 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: keg fridge I'll be setting up a keg fridge soon that will hold 5-6 kegs. My goal is to be able to store these kegs at different carbonation levels appropriate to the particular beer in each. My thoughts at this time are to use a manifold which has valves for each gas outlet. That way I can pressurize, dispense, repressurize to whatever levels I want for any particular keg by only opening its valve and setting the tank regulator to the desired level. All other valves would remain closed, thereby isolating the other kegs from what's going on in the rest of the system. Normal state for storage would be to have all valves closed, including the main tank valve. Is this going to work, is this the best way to be achieving what I want? For simplicity, the taps will be mounted on the door, since that seems like the safest place to put holes in a fridge. However, I would prefer to have my main gas line from the tank (which will be outside the fridge) coming through the side. Is there anyway to tell where it is safe to drill through the side of a fridge? Thanks Brian Lundeen Brewing at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:03:52 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: Symbiosis The posting about yeast starters has prompted me to share what I consider to be a perfect symbiotic relationship that I have just formed. I have a buddy who wants homebrew but isn't particularly interested in the brewing process. As such, I've gotten him into the BrewHouse line, and he thinks these are just the cat's pyjamas, if not the bee's knees. He wants to make lagers from the American Lager kit, but he has no facilities for making true lagers, so all he can do now is make a light ale from the kit as it comes. I have offered to ferment his kits for him, using my lager yeasts, then rack it off into a water jug for him to take home and bottle. He's not going to get the world's greatest lager, since I will pitch warm and ferment it around 52-54F to get it done a little more quickly, and it won't have a lagering period either. But it should still turn out more lager-like than making it up with the supplied ale yeast, and he's not particularly picky anyway. I walk away from this with a huge yeast population from a very neutral source for pitching into my cold lager wort, which should greatly improve the quality of my product. I view this as a win-win situation for both of us. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:47:12 -0600 From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> Subject: expensive brew I just brewed the most expensive 10 gallons of beer in my life. Let's tally the bill Hops: $4.00 Malt: $ 18.00 Water: $00.01 yeast: $00.10 (only becuase i stepped up the starter) trip to hosptital: $1,378.65 Total: $1400.76 The fifth part of the brew involved a 7 gallon glass carboy full of sanatizer, my left foot, 22 stitches, a trip to the ER and gravity. I guess add $25.00 for the carboy into above figures. Warning: don't set full carboy on washing machine and try to lift it up with wet hands to empty it while standing on concrete with no shoes on. Stitches came out yesterday but this persistant limp from the entire top of my foot being black and blue and swollen is still with me. I am seriously considering no longer using gravity as a method of emptying my carboys and going to a mag drive pump. I must say the god were looking over me though, it didn't break my foot even though that was the first thing it hit as it shattered into a bazillion pieces. And it was full of sanitizer and not brew (whew !!). Any people still using carboys with out handles, save this in your inbox and remember, don't make the mistake that I made. Should you make this same mistake, go to in box and let it be known that you had been duly warned. PS the beer is fantastic !!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 12:55:24 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Re: Yeast Starters Mike Lemons wrote of Yeast Starters: >This idea of putting the starter in the fridge overnight before pitching >sounds like a bad idea to me. You are exposing the yeast to some pretty >rapid temperature changes. If getting those last stragglers to >flocculate is the only justification for doing this, it doesn't seem >worth the stress it causes. Mike, I agree, I think there is a minor logical fault in this procedure. The idea is that you drop the temp to induce flocculation and the supernatant beer is poured off to leave you with a nice, thick yeast slurry. Sounds good, but temp-shocking yeast isn't the best thing for them. Depending on your fridge you may be anywhere from 35F - 45F. Surely there's enough of a drop at a rapid enough rate to kill a few cells. Maybe 30F over the course of 2-3 hours. I'm sure that the yeast which haven't been killed already will love the even quicker 30F jump back to ambient when you pitch it the next day. But so what? You've got a gallon (4L) worth of starter. There's enough to go around. The yeast's metabolism at this point is most probably pretty low. They've depleted their food source, have been temp-shocked twice now and I'm sure they'd just love to skip their lag time when you dump 'em into the new wort. I don't think so. This is not to say that if you do this, you won't have good beer. Sure you will. I've done it and my beer tasted great. But I believe that it comes at the expense of a larger starter with a little longer lag time because you're dumping groggy yeast into the mix. I prefer to use half that amount of yeast (2L), which is at high krausen into my beer (supernatant beer and all). At high krausen (or close to it) they yeast are at their metabolic peak. I've noticed that there is a reduction in lag time by a few hours, however I have not percieved any other significant gains in any mother measures such as: total fermentation time, total attenuation, attenuation rate, etc... There may be, but I haven't measured it. Now I know *SOMEBODY* might read this and ask "How can Glen say this? I chill my starter s and my beers turn out fine." Just don't ask me for numbers, stats, charts or graphs to support my hypothesis. I don't have any. I don't have a hypothesis either. I'm too busy brewing beer to perform pseudo-scientific experiments in my basement brewery on yeast metabolism which other people will tear apart anyway. Yes, I've gone the way of the Pivo and the Sanders who know what works for them and who know good beer when they taste it. I can truly say that I am worrying less, relaxing more and drinking good homebrew! I use the chill-to-flock method during step-ups because I am not concerned over metabolism. But my final step up is started at the temp at which I intend to pitch, using a non-obtrusive wort which will not effect my overall beer. It is also timed to have the end of high krausen coincide with pitching. Timing is the biggest challenge here. >From what I understand, if you >introduce bacteria at the same time as the yeast and get into some kind >of race condition, the yeast are going to lose. The bacteria reproduce >faster. Even a small advantage, multiplied over several generations, >will cause the bacteria to overtake the yeast. You sure do get into a race condition, but with good sanitation and proper aseptic transfer techniques, the yeast population grossly outnumbers the contaminant population and wins the race early on. >The drawback of using stages is that each new stage provides new >opportunities for contamination. Maybe a different method such as adding >lysozyme to the starter would provide a greater degree of protection in >a single stage. I think it was Brian who said he uses lysozyme. Sounds like a good approach. I'm sure it helps and it might most beneficial to do this during the early step-up stages since the yeast:contiminant ratio has the potential to be higher at this point. I'd prefer to keep it out of my beer though. The idea of extra additives doesn't sit well with me. But that's me. 'Nuff said. Happy brewing! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "We will make no distinction between the terrorists who committed these acts and those who harbor them." - President G. W. Bush Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:07:36 -0500 From: "B.R. Rolya" <br at triagemusic.com> Subject: Re: Speaking of the stoves Doug said: >I have a 30 qrt. brew kettle that sits across two burners on my gas >stove. I have also found that it discolors the enamel area between the >burners. I started to scrub it off with a scouring pad when I realized >I was scratching the enamel. The solution was to get a can of spray on >oven cleaner. I follow the directions on the can and it works like a >charm, for the most part. A few spots have developed which I can't get >off. > >Have others had this problem? What are your solutions? Can't help you with exisiting stains but here's a tip to avoid new ones: I cover my stove with aluminum foil before brewing, leaving a little space around the gas units themselves. No worries about stains or boil-overs - just remove the foil when done. - BR Rolya Malted Barley Appreciation Society NYC http://hbd.org/mbas/ Return to table of contents
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