HOMEBREW Digest #3800 Thu 29 November 2001

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  RE: Thomas Hardy quote ("Sam Ritchie")
  __publication_only__ ("laurence cooney")
  Turkey Fryers . . . ("Galloway")
  Turkey Frying? ("Donald D. Lake")
  RE: DC-area Brew Shop Help (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  RE: Corn flour for CAP? ("RJ")
  Wort heaters (Mark Kempisty)
  Re: wort aerating pump ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Re: Thomas Hardy quote (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Malt vinegar (Jeff Renner)
  turkey fry ("Joseph Marsh")
  Saffron Beer ("Steve Stroud")
  Priming with corn sugar or malt extract??? ("Kristen Chester")
  casks power serving! ("Robin Griller")
  Wort Aeration Pump Size ("John Zeller")
  Wort Oxygenation (Dan.Stedman)
  Turkey Fryer at Sam's Club (Mark Kempisty)
  Stupid Brewer tricks ("May, Jeff")
  Priming in Corny Kegs? ("Gregor Zellmann")
  rims?  smoker ("steve lane")
  Brew stores in New Orleans? ("Tray Bourgoyne")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 13:33:48 +0800 From: "Sam Ritchie" <sritchie at e-comm.com.au> Subject: RE: Thomas Hardy quote "In the liquor line Loveday laid in an ample barrel of Casterbridge 'strong beer.' This renowned drink--now almost as much a thing of the past as Falstaff's favourite beverage--was not only well calculated to win the hearts of soldiers blown dry and dusty by residence in tents on a hill-top, but of any wayfarer whatever in that land. It was of the most beautiful colour that the eye of an artist in beer could desire; full in body, yet brisk as a volcano; piquant, yet without a twang; luminous as an autumn sunset; free from streakiness of taste; but, finally, rather heady. The masses worshipped it, the minor gentry loved it more than wine, and by the most illustrious county families it was not despised. Anybody brought up for being drunk and disorderly in the streets of its natal borough, had only to prove that he was a stranger to the place and its liquor to be honourably dismissed by the magistrates, as one overtaken in a fault that no man could guard against who entered the town unawares." I've often seen the quote attributed to 'The Mayor of Casterbridge', but it's actually from 'The Trumpet-Major'. As far as the beer goes, I can't help you there, but did find a report of a tasting from Malt Advocate http://www.realbeer.com/maltadvocate/W94/W94HARDY.html which is worth a read. Sam Perth, Western Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 01:09:36 -0500 From: "laurence cooney" <lyvewire1 at hotmail.com> Subject: __publication_only__ "steve lane" writes: Any way, I propose that we start an elite clique of injured brewers with varying catagories that would determine status in the club. For instance, a 1st degree burn would have a much lower status than a back injury requiring surgery from lifting a carboy. Stitches is good, depending upon the count, but cut tendons or ligaments would rank right up there with the back surgery. Any feedback on a scoring system would be helpful. But would all that measure up to the mosquito bites and sunburn we get down here in Florida? Larry Cooney Wesley Chapel, Florida Sorry I don't know my homebrew zip code. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:07:07 -0500 From: "Galloway" <galloway at gtcom.net> Subject: Turkey Fryers . . . Greetings to the Collective, Dave of Canada asks; ". . .do you mean you dunk a whole turkey in hot oil and deep-fry it? . . ." Well Dave, the short answer is "Hell yes!" Here in the south frying, both large and small scale, is something of an art form, and a cardiologists dream. I've had just about everything fried since moving here. I was offered "white meat" once at a dinner. I thought it was poultry or perhaps pork. It was breaded and fried salted pork back (essentially fired fat). As far as doing a bird, it's the best turkey you can ever hope to eat. I brine our birds for two days or so. I mix 1/4 cup of something called Greek Seasoning and 1/4 cup salt in enough water to cover the turkey (about 2 to 3 gallons). I submerge the still frozen bird in the brine and let it sit. Two days later, put three gallons of oil (peanut is the most expensive, so I only use one gallon to two of vegetable oil) in the pot and bring it to 350 degree. While the oil is getting ready, pull out the guts place the bird on the rack with the big cavity down. Here is a critical part; DRAIN THE BIRD WELL BEFORE SUBMERGING INTO THE BOILING OIL! I didn't the first time. The resulting eruption was VERY dramatic. It was good to know that this old boy still had some moves. Turkey goes in and the timer starts. I have found that a 13 pound bird is completely finished in 40 to 45 minutes. This works out to about 4 minutes in the oil per pound of turkey.Drain well, let sit for 10 minutes before carving. Two 12 to 13 pound birds will use much less a quart of oil to fry. Adjust your flame to ensure the oil temp stays between 350 and 375 degrees. If the oil isn't hot enough the turkey will absorb some. This is without a doubt the juiciest turkey you will ever put in your mouth. Plus it is NOT greasy. The hot oil sears the bird shut. The hot oil works from the inside as it floods the cavity and bubbles out of the neck. The other good reason for frying the bird is that it frees up your oven and here in Florida, doesn't heat up the whole house. Regards, Dave Galloway Chattahoochee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:01:51 -0500 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net> Subject: Turkey Frying? Dave wrote: >Sorry to ask, but I'm totally unfamiliar with this idea (I'm guessing most >of the other Canadians, Aussies and Brits are too) It's a Cajun thing that has caught on all over, especially in the south. It is absolutely delicious! Although it sounds weird (especially to northerners), I have yet to hear of anyone who has tried it and doesn't think it's the best turkey they have every tasted. You take a whole fresh turkey, and fry it in a pot of oil heated to 325F. The time of frying is about 3 minutes per pound. Because of the mess involved, it is a special occasion food item. The hardest part is setting up and cleaning up. Because of that, I usually offer to fry up turkeys for other family members and friends at the same time. Go for it. You'll be a hit in Canada Don Lake Orlando, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:20:07 -0500 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: RE: DC-area Brew Shop Help ...and I've seen an ad in BYO (though I have yet to venture to the store) for Annapolis Homebrew: 53 West McKinsey Rd. Saverna Park, MD 2146 www.annapolishomebrew.com 800-279-7556 Mon-Sat. 10-8 NAYYY And there's the Brew Pot in Bowie, MD (on the way to Annapolis) and...well, heck, just check out this link from the local club: http://www.burp.org/resource.htm It lists all the area ones, with contact information and hours. And tell whichever one you stop at Thanks! for serving the homebrew community in DC-MD-VA. - --Rob Hanson the Closet Brewery Cheverly, MD - ------------- Porter: ...do you look for ale and cakes here, you rude rascals? --King Henry VIII,V.iv Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:49:30 -0500 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: RE: Corn flour for CAP? "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> wrote: "Greetings CAPers, I'm planning to brew my first CAP in a few weeks. A couple of questions for those who know this style: 1) I have a large bag of corn flour (for making tortillas). Has anyone used corn flour instead of grits or flakes to make a CAP before? Is it as "corny" as polenta? How would you handle flour? I was thinking of doing a cereal mash with 2 lb flour + 4 lbs pale malt, and adding to the main mash for a step from 140F to 158(ish) (for a 22 lb mash). 2) Any thoughts on using Saflager-S23 as the yeast for this style?" Drew, I've used both... 1) The corn flour needs to be double mashed - else the brew will not clear. 2) The DCL SafLager S-23 could be used for a CAP, some info directly from their site, regarding fermentation temps: S-23 This bottom fermenting yeast is widely used by Western European commercial breweries. This yeast develops the best of its fruity and estery lager notes when fermented at low temperatures (9C-15C) yet producing very good lager and pilsener beers at higher temperatures (15C-21C). Recommended temperature range: 9C-15C (ideally 12C). Recommended pitching rate at 12C-15C: 80 to 120 g/hl (equivalent to 8 to 12 millions/ml wort). For a pitching temperature below 12C, increase the pitching rate accordingly, up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9C (equivalent to 20 to 30 million viable cells/ml wort). Ciao, RJ 43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W Lakes Region of NH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:14:09 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Wort heaters Nils Hedglin asked about keeping wort warm while fermenting during these chilly months. I have used a small heating pad tied to the carboy with some twine. On those really colder days I also took a large U-Haul moving box with the bottom closed and top open and put it upside down over the carboy to help contain the heat. Only trick there was making sure the box was tall enough to clear the airlock sticking out of the carboy. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:14:55 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Re: wort aerating pump Pat Casey wrote about making a wort aerating pump: >I want to use an aquarium air pump to aerate worts. The idea is to >bubble the air through a jar of hydrogen peroxide and then into the >wort. I know I'll get beaten up for saying this, but here it goes anyway. If the purpose of bubbling the air through the hydrogen peroxide is to "sterilize" the air, then don't bother. You might as well bubble it through my leftover Thanksgiving turkey soup. For any liquid sanitizing agent to work, it must come in contact with the contaminant and must be in contact for a certain period of time. In a bubbler, the air will be bubbling through the solution too quickly and only a small percentage of airborne particulate matter may come into contact with the solution. The contact will occur at the interface of the air bubble and the liquid agent. So compare the surface area of a sphere to it's volume and then you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about. The only way to truly sterilize or significally reduce the bacterial count of the the air is to filter it through a very tight filter. A 0.3 micron filter is suggested. This size will remove all particulate matter, fungi (yeasts included) and bacteria from the air. You could probably even get away with using a 0.45 micron filter too. At 0.3 microns to 0.22 microns the filters will only pass some viruses, but then they won't infect your beer, so who cares. You can find replacement filters for the bottled oxygen aeration systems at one of the many on-line homebrewing websites. If properly cared for, it will remain useful for a long time. You may even be able to find one at the aquarium store you're visiting. Additionally, most aquarium pumps have a rough filter located on the pump itself. In many cases it is a cheap felt disk. This is meant to prevent dust and other large particles from ruining your pump. It must be changed on occasion as well but with the amount of running time it will get, we're probably talking many years. >What sort of pump pressure is needed to achieve this? I would assume a pump which is rated for double the volume of the beer should be sufficient. I use a 5 gallon pump on my starters (which are 3L max). I would also elevate the pump above the beer level to eliminate the need for a check valve. A check valve will cause a pressure drop (so will a filter or bubbling bottle). Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "We will make no distinction between the terrorists who committed these acts and those who harbor them." - President G. W. Bush Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:09:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Thomas Hardy quote From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> writes from Gainesville, FL: >I was wondering if someone could help me out with a quote from one of Thomas >Hardy's novels? It is a description (of a few sentences or a paragraph) of the >ale of the Dorset area. Supposedly it was used as part of the target in >brewing Thomas Hardy Ale. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could send it to >me. It's on the label! I Google searched a few key words off the label of an old bottle I had and got five hits including this from a Malt Advocate article on Hardy's Ale at http://www.realbeer.com/maltadvocate/W94/W94DAN.html : "It (Dorchester Ale) was of the most beautiful colour that the eye of an artist in beer could desire; full in body, yet brisk as a volcano; piquant, yet without a twang; luminous as an autumn sunset; free from streakiness of taste; but, finally rather heady." Haven't heard any recent news about its fate. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:20:28 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Malt vinegar "Gene Collins" <gcollins at geotec.net> writes from Broken Arrow, OK (is that a cool name or what? No, not Collins, Broken Arrow!): >I sat in the fish place today enjoying my lunch when it struck me that the >amber liquid on the table was called "malt" vinegar. Is this stuff made from >malted barley and does anyone know how it's made? Is it really oxidated, >unhopped beer? I know, just a weird curosity. That is it, and if you smelled the stuff that came out of my once-used beer engine when it arrived from England, you'd know for sure. Ethanol oxidizes into vinegar (acetic acid) via the Acetobacter, a microbe that requires oxygen (which is why you shouldn't have a problem with your beer turning into vinegar if it's away from air). You can get a culture of "mother of vinegar," which is Acetobacter, from many homebrew shops. I've only made wine vinegar, well deliberately, at least, but beer vinegar shouldn't be any different. Don't think you'd use hops, though, or at least not much. Just add the "mother" to some beer in a container with lots of air and keep it warmish (although the inside of my 55F beer freezer is smelling rather vinegary right now from spills I should clean up). Nature should take its course. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:18:44 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: turkey fry Yes we do deep fry turkeys. It started a few years ago and a popular radio show picked up the idea. Goto Bobandtom.com and you can see the technic. I haven't been to that site for a long time so I don't know exactly where it's at but have fun exploring. Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:27:21 -0500 From: "Steve Stroud" <strouds at gis.net> Subject: Saffron Beer The most recent edition of All About Beer has a homebrew article by Randy Mosher. In it he outlines the brewing procedure for a dozen spiced, herbed, or otherwise treated homebrews. IIRC, one of them was a saffron tripel. I believe that he added 1/2 tsp of threads to the secondary. Cheers, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:44:33 -0500 From: "Kristen Chester" <kristen at cambridge.com> Subject: Priming with corn sugar or malt extract??? Oh, great elders of the beer world, I prostrate myself before you begging for your guidance. Should I prime my bottles for carbonation with corn sugar or malt extract? We do bottles only -- unfortunately there's no space for kegs in our little abode. I have been using corn sugar, but when I recently entered a beer in a club competition, one of the judges indicated that the corn sugar used for priming had hurt the beer (but maybe he was mistaken). On the other hand, I've heard that using malt extract has aesthetic effects, and can impact the flavor as well. I would hate to be making a mistake at this final stage of beermaking that would negatively affect the batch, so any advice/guidance would be well appreciated. Thank you, oh wise ones! Kristen Reston, VA [6695, 14.7] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:49:51 -0500 From: "Robin Griller" <robin_g at ica.net> Subject: casks power serving! Hi all, Re Dave's question about serving from his Golden Gate cask, I'm not sure what a golden gate cask is, but when I used my pressure barrel, I found that I could usually serve the entire cask of beer without using *any* external gas. This was despite the fact that I would use only 60-70 grams of priming sugar for 25 litres of beer. I would agree that it likely has something to do with the airspace in the keg; even with 25l in the barrel, there was still a large ullage, meaning lots of pressure built up above the beer, firing the beer out for the majority of the keg and being able to serve the entire 25l without any additional gas being added. Cornies on the other hand have a tiny head space. Robin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:42:41 -0800 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: Wort Aeration Pump Size Pat inquired about aquarium pump sizing. I would suggest the smallest and cheapest pump available. Spend no more than $5 or $6 and it will do just fine. Even the smallest pumps put out quite a bit of air. More than enough to do a good job of aerating. I would also suggest an in-line purification filter rather than the hydrogen peroxide method. It's cheap and requires no maintenance. I've had excellent results with this setup. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:42:19 -0600 From: Dan.Stedman at PILLSBURY.COM Subject: Wort Oxygenation Pat writes: >I want to use an aquarium air pump to aerate worts. The idea is to >bubble the air through a jar of hydrogen peroxide and then into the >wort. Typical starting gravities are around 1045. What sort of pump >pressure is needed to achieve this? The biggest pump at the local >aquarium shop is 9 watts with a pressure of .12kg/sq cm or about 11.75 >kPa. As well, I would welcome any advice about tube diameters and other >considerations. First, forget about bubbling the air through the hydrogen peroxide. This does little to nothing to kill beasties, since it would only be sanitizing at the bubble walls and even then it is very limited due to the short contact time. It would be better to get a little air filter that you can attach inline. Second, I would recommend that you spend the few extra dollars and get an O2/airstone setup. It will then only take a minute to fully O2 your wort, you have no chance of introducing beasties as long as you boil your airstone for 15 minutes and sanitize your tubing, and a 1 lb cylinder of O2 lasts well over a dozen batches. Plus, you won't have to deal with all of the excess foam that you get from aerating with regular air (due to the additional time that you need to aerate). Just my two cents - Dan in Minnetonka Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 14:48:04 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Turkey Fryer at Sam's Club All, Went to Sam's Club at lunch time and found a 30 qt STAINLESS STEEL turkey fryer setup for $69.99. Includes tall 30 qt. stainless steel pot, long stem thermometer, bird stand, handle, boil/fry basket, lid, two marinades, injector and a 150K (or so) burner with legs. While the pot is thin walled, it would make a fine hot liqueur tank. The top of the burner is a flat ring that may not fit the bottom of a converted keg (which I use) but should handle flat bottomed pots fine. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:53:18 -0800 From: "May, Jeff" <jeff.may at attws.com> Subject: Stupid Brewer tricks I'm snowed in this morning in Seattle, WA so I guess I'll confess my latest Stupid Brewer Trick. We were flying to Florida for Thanksgiving to be with my folks. I had named my last two batches after my parents (Jane's a Nut Brown Ale and Uncle Dougie's Octoberfest), and they wanted to try some. So I CP filled a couple 2L bottles. I sealed he bottles with carbonation caps and topped off with 12# CO2. A little voice in my head said I should wrap them in a trash bag just in case they leaked. I packed them in my checked luggage and off we went. We arrived in FL and picked up our luggage from the baggage claim carousel. As we were walking to the parking garage my wife said she smelled beer. Uh oh! I unzipped my bag to find two completely empty 2L bottles and everything was soaked. So much for the trash bag. The weird thing was that both bottles were extremely evacuated (the sides were really sucked in). We joked that my folks would have to suck my socks if they wanted to sample my brews. So I guess the moral of the story is don't fly with carbonation caps. No stitches, no broken toes, just a bunch of laundry. Jeff May MayzerBrau Nano Brew Snohomish, WA jeff.may at attws.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 23:11:00 +0100 From: "Gregor Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: Priming in Corny Kegs? Fellow brewers, I finally made it to get all kegging equipment together. Do I have to say that I am proud? :) But of course there appear a few questions too. Just as I filled my cornies 2 days ago with 40 liters of Export, I started to wonder how to carbonate them. I have heard a lot about force carbonation, but as I didn't have kegs, I somehow forgot. So I searched the internet and HBD archive. There seem to be two groups of brewers: One is saying you should prime the beer in the kegs, apply just enough pressure to get a good seal and let the kegs sit for a couple of weeks. And they mention to check the pressure from time to time. They promise that you get nicer (smaller) bubbles and in general better carbonated beer and even better foam . The other group says all this priming is bull (especially the smaller bubbles story) and do force carbonation. Either by applying a higher pressure than the desired pressure (depending on temp, time and surface of the beer) and shaking the kegs for a certain time. I even read that shaking very cold beer for 5 minutes in a very cold keg while applying the desired pressure gives you a perfectly carbonated beer. Other people just apply the desired pressure and leave their kegs for 10 days without shaking and say this is the way to go. As I of course wanted to drink my first tapped beer in no time I went for the 5 minutes shake and had fairly but not really perfectly carbonated beer after 6 hours. But if I have the time, I would tend to prime the kegs with DME or Glucose and just wait. The only disatvantage I can see with this method is that one gets extra sediment in the keg and this worries me a bit. Does that mean that all the dispensed beer is cloudy because sediment is getting pushed up through the dip tube? How can I avoid this? I thought about cutting maybe .5 inch off the dip tube. Would this help? Gregor Zellmann Berlin, Germany [4247.6, 43.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 16:13:32 -0600 From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> Subject: rims? smoker I just got a new smoker and was reading that some units have a heating element in the bottom instead of using wood or charcoal and had this brilliant idea. Could a guy, who already has a RIMS, use his thermo's and PID controllers to rig up an electric smoker that would run a heating element to control the air temp in the smoker much like we do on our RIMS? I have always thought of the RIMS as controlling a fluid system and I'm thinking I would need to recirc the air much as I recirc the wort. Would the heating element in a smoke chamber cause enough convection to get an accurate manipulation of the temp inside the smoke box? I would love to put a meal on the smoker at 7:00 am, go to work, and come home to 10 hours of temp controlled smoked ....whatever. Maybe somebody out there has done this. I would really like some feedback on this or other ideas on electric smoking. Private would be fine as this post is stretching the subject of this forum. But, I promise not to let the smoker get priority on which unit gets the PID and which get the anolog thermo. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 19:08:52 -0600 From: "Tray Bourgoyne" <tray at mm2k.net> Subject: Brew stores in New Orleans? Can anyone tell me if there are any good home brew stores in the New Orleans, LA area? I will be heading down there fairly soon. Also looking for good brew pubs. Thanks, Tray Bourgoyne Raymond, MS Return to table of contents
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