HOMEBREW Digest #3817 Wed 19 December 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Hops & yeast ("Eric Stiers")
  obnoxious squirrles ("Raymond Conn")
  RE: Schlenkerla Rauchbier (smoked beer) ("Gregor Zellmann")
  squirrels (Ray Kruse)
  Re: Newbe question about brewing quantity (Steven S)
  Rauchbier / Samiclaus / Unibroue special beer (David Harsh)
  Re: Real Guinness is not paltry ("Chad Gould")
  Pesky squirrels (Rolf Karlsson)
  Club Yeast Banks ("Vernon, Mark")
  re: Garden critters ("Paul Kensler")
  re: Smoke 'em ("Paul Kensler")
  Guinness Imported (from Canada) ("H. Dowda")
  Re: Smoke 'em if ya got 'em (Bill Tobler)
  RE: Water Softener ("Dennis Lewis")
  Wyeast XL cell counts (Paddock Wood Customer Service)
  Yeast temps (Jeff)
  re: Champagne Yeast/tobacco ("Steve Alexander")
  Re: Water Softener (Jeff Renner)
  British Ale Character ("Drew Avis")
  re: h2o2 aeration (Joe Gibbens)
  BTF Iodophor vs. DiverseyLever Accord II (Al Beers)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 00:44:36 -0600 From: "Eric Stiers" <ewstiers at chorus.net> Subject: Hops & yeast Hi all- I recently signed on to hbd, and have greatly enjoyed reading all of your interesting posts. Keep up the good work! Anyway, on to the question: I recently started two batches of beer; a nice dark Irish stout and a masochistically hoppy IPA. Both were 5 gallon batches and were pitched and first-staged at about the same temperature, and with the same amount of yeast (but different strains, of course). The stout went into heavy krausen nearly overnight, but the IPA took a few days and even then just slowly bubbled along. The OG readings at the start were 1.045 for the stout, 1.054 for the IPA, so I would have guessed that the IPA would have at least matched, if not outdone the stout in CO2 production. A friend and I are theorizing that the high acid level from the hops might be slowing the IPA yeast, however we have not been able to confirm that this is a real phenomenon in any of our collective reading materials. Have any of you folks had any experience with slower fermentation in highly-hopped brews? Or would this be expected just based on the different strains of yeast used and other differing conditions and chemistry between the two runs? All info is appreciated. Eric Stiers Madison WI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 02:38:10 -0800 From: "Raymond Conn" <dawgpatch2 at centurytel.net> Subject: obnoxious squirrles "Paul Kensler" WRITES: I have some really obnoxious squirrels digging up my hop beds...Has anyone experienced the same problem and found a way to beat the little buggers or at least dissuade them from tearing up the hop garden? As a (former) fox and coyote trapper one of the best and easyest ways to attract an animal was with visualization,meaning fox and coyote know where diner lives,in holes some times dug into the earth, so when you leave the dirt scratched up and piled into what looks like a freshly dug burrow, it's an invite to lunch-same for Mr.. squirrel(so that's where those nuts are buried!-I'll just take a peek). when trans planting or weeding, the site of disturbed earth is just too much to over look. try camouflaging with mulch(bark ,straw,clippings) or even land scaping stone and/or rock ,which would make it tough for their digging,while on the subject of making it tough try chicken wire laid flat. As an advocate on leash laws for cats I'll leave this one alone so as not to offend the cat loving readers in the collective. hope I helped Ray,bringing homebrew to Hale Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:15:07 +0100 From: "Gregor Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: RE: Schlenkerla Rauchbier (smoked beer) Rick Gordon wrote about *really* smoked beer and names Schlenkerla from Bamberg: > If you've ever had the pleasure of drinking an original "Rauchbier" (smoked > beer) from The Schlenkerla restaurant/brewery in Bamberg, Germany (a couple > of blocks from the old Rathaus in the middle of the river) you will have come > as close to cigar-in-your-beer heaven as you would ever hope to. I was born in this beautiful city and grew up with the taste of Schlenkerla Rauchbier. It is pretty extreme. Actually a newbie starts enjoying this beer not before the second pint.;-) > Skip the > tobacco in the mash and smoke the grains (or buy smoked barley from > Weyermann's). Substitute as much as you dare into your favorite Marzen > recipe and go for it. I normally use 2-3 lbs. per 5 gal. but let your palette > rule. If you want to come close to the original use enough chocolate malt to get the colour to 52-55 EBC and the rest of your grain bill should be pure, Weyermann smoked malt. I know the brewmaster and that's what he does. I have 50 litres lagering in the basement right now. A side note: I was told by this brewmaster, that all beers from malted barley (with no exception) up to the beginning of the industrial revolution were smoked beers, as all malt was kilned (is this the right word for the drying and roasting process?) on open fires up to that point. Makes sense to me. happy holidays to all of you! Gregor Zellmann Berlin, Germany [4247.6, 43.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:35:57 -0500 From: Ray Kruse <rkruse at bigfoot.com> Subject: squirrels I had a problem with squirrels a couple of years ago, in a very urban area, and solved it with my "Squirrel Relocation Program". I went to the local hardware store, bought a Hav-A-Hart (tm) trap big enough to catch a cat (another story there that might be told after I leave the area), and baited the trap with peanut butter. Every squirrel caught was relocated from my neighborhood to my work neighborhood. Got over a dozen of them (in about three weeks) before the herd got thinned enough that they left me alone. HTH Ray Kruse Glen Burnie, PRMd rkruse at bigfoot.com - -- "It must be obvious that liberty necessarily means freedom to choose foolishly as well as wisely; freedom to choose evil as well as good; freedom to suffer the rewards of good judgment, and freedom to suffer the penalties of bad judgment. If this is not true, the word ~FREEDOM~ has no meaning." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:37:14 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <stevensl at corp.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Newbe question about brewing quantity Well i would say it depends on what you are brewing. A good stout might not really need much adjustment, a higher gravity might be just the thing! My Crankcase Stout (which is perfect by the way!) ended up being a bit higher than I had calculated. Are you doing extract? I would highly suggest you try the Recipator (http://www.hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator) to size your recipe. In my experience i would probably fill that jug to about 4-4.5 gallons and stick a large hose out of the top for blowoff. I've notice my brews have gotten much "cleaner" tasting with the blowoff exiting my carboy. If its good enough for Bass its good enough for me! >Am preparing to make my first brew. Have read many tips and tricks, and >thoroughly understand the need for cleanliness and sanitation. >Am following various threads of the digest but can't find an answer to >my question. Because I only have access to 5 gallon plastic carboy >(repurposed "Crystal Clear" plastic 5 gallon jug) I believe that my wort >quantity has to be less than 5 gallons. Correct? How do I convert a >recipe stated for 5 gallons into a 4 gallon recipe? The 4 gallon >quantity is my attempt to leave a "good head room" in the fermenter. >How much headroom is "good"? Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl at corp.earthlink.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian "Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem." -- President Ronald Reagan, 1985 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:56:18 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Rauchbier / Samiclaus / Unibroue special beer Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> talks about Schenkerla- > Next, recipes? As I read it, Schlenkerla Rauchbier is in the Marzen > style. How much of the recipe should be smoked? All munich malt > recipe? Half munich, half pilsner? Some crystal? Buy up the last > reserves of DWC aromatic and make a 100% aromatic malt rauchbier? Wouldn't > that be an interesting treat? Schenkerla USED to be a great smoke beer, but that was 5 years ago or so when it was made from all rauchmalt (maybe 1% chocolate for color). In recent years, it has wimped out to a 30-40% smoked malt beer and just isn't as interesting. My opinions, of course, but I just find the beer boring anymore. I've made the 99% rauch and 1% chocolate version and it is a great beer. Of course, I'm talking about the commercial, beechwood smoked malts, not home-smoked malts that are generally MUCH stronger and would probably be undrinkable at that level. - ------------------------------ LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> mentions Samiclaus I had the pleasure of comparing 96, 97, and 2000 Friday night in a side by side tasting (are homebrew club Christmas parties great, or what?). The 96 was by far the most pleasant - nice malt profile with some creaminess in the mouthfeel. The 97 was just plain boring - it wasn't bad, but paled by comparison to the other two years. The 2000 was very good, but will probably improve over the years as the 96 has. I bought the 2000 last year at the Party Source in Northern Kentucky (which means Cincinnati). Of course, that's probably where I got the 96 and 97 too, but that would have been a few years ago at this point. Haven't seen the 2001 yet, but that gives me an idea of what I should do today. - ----------------------------- While we're on the topic of rare beers, I saw an ad in All About Beer for a tenth anniversary beer from Unibroue. Has anyone seen it, had it, etc? Comments on it? Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:04:35 -0500 From: "Chad Gould" <cgould11 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: Real Guinness is not paltry > Don't be to quick to hammer Guinness. Memory > serves me right, what is served in Ireland is > closer to 2.5% (any UKHBD folks out there)- ever > wonder how the lads drink all day and survive? > At 2.5%, you drown long before getting drunk. ABV content is not a way I judge beers -- to compare: Boddingtons is around 3.5% ABV, and Budweiser's around 5% ABV; I of course will take the Boddingtons. :) > Don't know what Yanks do the it, but they sure > manage to ruin it (maybe AB has inserted agents > at the brewery?). I won't drink Guinness in > America any more - it is just not a good drink > here - please fill up my Coke glass. Guinness is contract brewed in several regional plants, maybe? I know that various regions have different styles of Guinness. For instance, in Hong Kong / China, the Guinness there was 7.5%! It was also quite a bit "saltier" in taste, and a bit more on the bitter side if I remember right. The "Guinness draught" over here may not approach Ireland's version, but it's quite nice IMHO, you just have to find the right place that serves it... America has many places that put up Guinness and Bass taps but still don't know how to perform maitenance on beer lines. Also, the American Guinness bottle is very very different from either the can or the tap -- it's closer to the export version I had in Asia, but not quite as salty and not quite as alcoholic. I'm not a big fan of the bottle version personally. (On the homebrew end: Last weekend I made my first "partial mash" style beer, after a comedy of various errors its fermenting quite nicely. We'll see how it turns out!) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:19:07 -0500 From: Rolf Karlsson <bz4n8v at naeng.gm.com> Subject: Pesky squirrels I've never seen a squirrel run as fast as when I let my Yorkshire Terriers out into the yard. At first I figured the dogs were all bark (they're about 8 pounds each) but their sporting bloodlines have apparently held true; they surprised me by taking down an unfortunate rabbit that wandered into our yard last month. Of course, the decision to get any kind of terrier is probably a bigger issue in itself than keeping squirrels out of your hops, but if you were thinking about getting a dog anyway, now you have anecdotal evidence that it will work (given the right breed). I can also verify second-hand that a blow-gun will thin the population significantly... Rolf Karlsson [44.2 miles, 9.3] Rennerian - -- "Well-weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air Sunlight on chrome, the blur of the landscape, every nerve aware!" -Rush, "Red Barchetta" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:30:08 -0600 From: "Vernon, Mark" <mark.vernon at pioneer.com> Subject: Club Yeast Banks I have a question for those of you in Brew Clubs. Does your club offer a club Yeast Bank? If they do how is it run? Our club was offering a Yeast Bank - we have several members into yeast ranching and they were gracious enough offer it to the club. For a small donation ($2) to the club, to cover culturing costs, a member could request a strain of yeast, we would whip up a small 10ml starter and the member would then step that up to whatever level they felt they needed to pitch. What are the groups opinions as to the legal/ethical aspects of this type of yeast bank? The reason I ask is that our local homebrew shop owner heard about this (we did not try and hid it), called one of the big yeast suppliers and had them send a letter threatening us with legal action, if we did not "Cease and Desist" selling "their" yeast. They also threatened to stop selling their yeast to him (the homebrew shop) because, supposedly, we purchased our source yeast from him (some we did, some we did not). So what is the opinion of the group? Are these types of yeast exchanges/banks legal? Ethical? Can I give a buddy the yeast cake from the batch I just brewed or am I 'stealing' the yeast from the supplier? Let the debate begin!!!!!! Mark Vernon, MCSE, MCT Sr. Network Engineer Global Infrastructure Pioneer, A DuPont Company EMail:Mark.Vernon at Pioneer.com The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. - -- Chinese proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:55:09 -0500 From: "Paul Kensler" <pkensler at home.com> Subject: re: Garden critters Thanks to everyone that replied about my garden squirrel problem, both on the HBD and in private. I got lots of great suggestions, which when combined will surely make for a dangerous environment for garden critters. The most common suggestion was to use a .22 (or larger!) and to enjoy a nice squirrel stew - which was also my first feeling but being entrenched in the Washington DC-area suburbs and living in a dense townhouse neighborhood, that probably isn't the best option (and certainly not SWMBO-friendly). Stepping down to a neighborhood-friendly pellet gun wouldn't work well either, because the hop plants are on the "long" side of our end-unit townhouse, right next to the front door... I can't get out the door and bring the weapon to bear before they run away. That option would also involve a lot of standing at the front window with my weapon in hand, staring maniacally out the window for hours... or setting up a deer stand (squirrel stand?) in the open space between buildings. While that does appeal to a part of me, it isn't the kind of behavior my wife wants to encourage. So that leaves me with some nasty concoction to include some or all of the following: moth balls, hot peppers (I finally found a use for Dave's Insanity Sauce), blood meal, predator urine (how do they collect that?), and mouse traps. Many folks also suggested various forms of barriers, which I'll probably resort to when the spicy-mothball-bloody-pee-dead squirrel odor outside my front door becomes unbearable. Thanks again, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:54:59 -0500 From: "Paul Kensler" <pkensler at home.com> Subject: re: Smoke 'em I recently made a rauchbier based on one of the recipes in Ray Daniels' excellent book, "Smoked Beers". The beer turned out fantastic - which is to say I'm no expert on rauchbiers, but I love Schlenkerla's beers and I am very happy with the way my homebrewed version came out. Various friends' reactions have ranged from loving it to scraping their tongues with a butter-knife after tasting it (I figure if a good smoked beer doesn't make at least one person gag then I haven't used enough rauch malt). Ray's book also has a lot of tips on self-smoking your malt, which I haven't tried and probably won't (its just too easy to get some Weyermann rauchmalt). My 5g recipe was: 7.5# Weyermann light munich 5# Weyermann rauch malt 2 oz. Weyermann Carafa I .75 oz. 12.0% Nugget - 60 min .25 oz. 3.3% Tettnanger - 2 min German ale yeast Irish moss Single infusion mash at 155F, 60 minute boil. OG 1.058 / FG 1.015. Kegged and force-carbonated. It's a medium-dark amber color, very clear, with a slightly tan / ivory head. It has a moderately smoky aroma, and a very noticeable smoky flavor that blends with the malt flavor and residual sweetness nicely. Keep in mind that when I say "moderate" and "noticeable", I'm already a fan of the style and will have no problem finishing off a 5g keg of the stuff - but I still think it is definitely not an over-the-top smokiness that dominates all other flavors. Bitterness is significant, which is a pleasant balance to the malt sweetness and smoky flavor - I think with the moderately high OG and FG on this batch, combined with the rich munich and smoke flavors, a less bitter beer would be cloying. It might be fun to try a drier, lower-OG version too... Let us know how the experiment turns out, getting the sausage factory to smoke some malt for you! Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 06:56:04 -0800 (PST) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: Guinness Imported (from Canada) Do not drink a lot of commercial stout. Bought some of the bottled pub draft in bottles and on close inspection found that it was being made in Canada ala Fosters etc, so it could still say imported. Before finding out the location of the brewery, I found the beer unpleasant. Is the kegged draft in the US made in Canada also? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:54:06 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: Re: Smoke 'em if ya got 'em Nathan, Zymugry beat you to it. January/February, 2001 issue, there is an article by Randy Mosher called "Roast, Toast, Season and Spice." The article covers from Roasting your own grains in the Kitchen to Smoking them on you grill. Check it out. Cheers Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:33:27 -0500 From: "Dennis Lewis" <dblewis at dblewis.com> Subject: RE: Water Softener Nils Hedglin writes, > I finally realized my whole-house water softener that so wonderfully > removes cholrine by my brewing liquor uses salt in the process, so it has a > high level of sodium. I'm sure this is affecting my beer in some way, but > not quite sure how. Any one have an idea? Is there something I could do to > get around it other than buying bottled/distilled water? Check out http://www.mortonsalt.com/soft/sofdsoft.htm for how a water softener works. Basically, it exchanges all your Calcium and Magnesium for Sodium. Strange, I thought that hardness was defined by the sulfate (permanent) and carbonate (temporary) content of the water.... Anyway, when our house had one, there was a bypass valve on it for servicing. On brew day, I would set the valve to bypass the softener, give all the equip a good spraydown which clears out the softened water from the lines. Then I fill my sparge tank and kettle for mashing (thru a carbon filter of course). I turn the softener back on after that. Even very hard water will make good beer. If you've been leaving the softener on, your water will be lacking in Ca and Mg that you'll have to add back in via gyspum, CaCl2, Epsom, etc., and you'll end up with excessive sulfate and carbonates as well as sodium (excessive sodium gives a metallic twang to the beer or so I hear). There have been a few times that I forgot to bypass the softener and the resulting beer comes out kind of dull. (Or at least I blamed it on that!) I suspect that I wasn't getting the right pH and other mash conversions due to lack of Calcium. Dennis Lewis [175.3mi, 113.3] Apparent Rennerian (aka Warren, Ohio) In wine there is wisdom. In beer there is strength. In water there is bacteria. --German Proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:32:27 -0600 From: Paddock Wood Customer Service <experts at paddockwood.com> Subject: Wyeast XL cell counts Hi folks, A quick note since there may be some confusion regarding cell counts in liquid yeast cultures. Wyeasts XL 175ml pack contains 45-60 billion cells when fully activated. No other liquid yeast pack has a higher cell count, including 'ready-to-pitch' cultures. The 'smack-pack' also provides visual proof of an active culture before pitching, which is important for those buying yeasts by mail, or if the viability of the yeast is in question due to storage or age. I am affiliated as a retailer of Wyeast, but I guarantee the beer kits we sell, so if a batch is off, or not what the customer was expecting, I replace it. Wyeast XL packs ensure that at least a decent population of uncontaminated yeast is pitched, my customers are satisfied, and I don't go broke replacing contaminated batches. A recent post placed the commercial pitching rate at 200 billion yeast cells into a typical 5 gallon batch, but noted that the homebrew pitching rate described by Ray Daniels is 10 fold less, but that would be a bare minimum rate. So at bare minimum, 20 billion cells in a 5 gallon batch will work. While it will not provide commercial pitching rates without a starter, an active Wyeast XL pack provides over DOUBLE the homebrew pitch rate, and up to TRIPLE the homebrew pitch rate even without a starter. Alan Meeker notes: " There are MANY potential ills attributable to underpitching. I know my beers improved DRAMATICALLY once I started pitching decent amounts of yeast." Absolutely. And with good sanitary practice, a starter is an excellent way to grow a decent amount of yeast. But for convenience and guaranteed uncontaminated cultures, an XL pack is hard to beat. Good populations can be obtained by stepping up a smaller population in a starter, but for those using extracts, starters are often no more cost effective than buying the XL pack, and run a considerably higher risk of infection. The XL packs provide an easy way for brewers at any level of experience to grow an acceptable population of cells. For strong ales, a good starter will be about 2 gallons. FWIW, I prefer to simply brew a quick lower gravity ale with an XL pack and use the slurry as the starter for the strong ale. It's about the same amount of work, but I get another 5 gallons of beer out of it, and a good amount of yeast (with due attention to the caveats noted by Alan). I hope this is useful, Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiis sugant." Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada experts at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:47:22 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff <duckinchicago at yahoo.com> Subject: Yeast temps I'm sure this has been covered in some form before, but I just was wondering about how ale yeast would react to a lower than normal fermentation temp. In my case, I have a very high gravity barleywine, that I pitched a large starter into, that has been fermenting very happily for the last 6 days, but I'm going away for 4 days over the holidays and will probably turn my thermostat in the house down to around 60 or less to conserve energy. Should I worry about a stuck fermentation if the temperature drops down to 55-60 F? I repitched the White Labs British Ale from a previous batch, and made a 1000 ml starter on top of it. I'm thinking it'll be fine, especially if its only a few days, but I dont' want to deal with a stuck fermentation of a 1.115 OG Barleywine. Thanks, Jeff in Chicagoland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:48:16 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: Champagne Yeast/tobacco Colby Fry asks ... >I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with champagne yeast I have used it on some fermentation tests. It's an excellent attenuator and the flavor is fairly neutral with more acidity than a brewing yeast. I would seriously consider champagne yeast for a blanche' beer style. For a triple I'd use another yeast for early fermentation and a late champagne yeast pitching for the final attenuation - otherwise the acidity will (I think) throw you out of style. ================= Brett Hetherington writes about the only good thing I've read on tobacco beer .... >Funny thing, I jones for the gum more than I do for a cigarette! >Been clean since 4/1/01 though, and I feel good! I'm 19 years ahead of you Brett - congrats. I always enjoyed smoking - but smoking prevented me from enjoying other things like breathing and tasting or smelling food. Tobacco beer sounds pretty stupid to me - it's poisonous, carcinogenic, addictive, and seriously damages your sense of taste. If you want to cr*p up a beer then start with Budweiser and save and the good beer from someone who can still taste the difference. Same goes for the nitwits who sip fine wine and whisky across tongues made insensate by tobacco. Yes you can taste the big flavors, but the subtlety is all lost. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 19:20:02 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Water Softener Nils Hedglin <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> writes from Sacramento, CA: > I finally realized my whole-house water softener that so wonderfully >removes cholrine by my brewing liquor uses salt in the process, so it has a >high level of sodium. I'm sure this is affecting my beer in some way, but >not quite sure how. Any one have an idea? Is there something I could do to >get around it other than buying bottled/distilled water? Your softener doesn't remove chlorine as part of its design, I believe, just as part of the standing process (I may be wrong). What it does do if it is the typical resin bead ion exchange softener is remove the hardness (calcium and magnesium and as a byproduct, iron) by exchanging two ions of sodium for every calcium or magnesium ion. Now magnesium we can do without, but calcium ions are important for mashing (I'm assuming you are mashing), and sodium can be a problem at high levels. I suggest you get an analysis of your untreated water from the water department and decide if it will do as is (with the chlorine removed) for brewing. If you need help, post the analysis here, and you'll get some help. Basically, you ought to have at least 50 ppm calcium, and we can go on from there. The bottom line is don't use the softened water for brewing. There are other ways of removing chlorine that are better (letting it stand, boiling, or, if it is in the form of chloramines, adding metabisulfate tablets). Here's to better beer! Jeff (an advance warning to my correspondents - my ISP, Comcast, which has been contracting with Mediaone for service, is cutting mediaone loose on 12/27 and on 12/29, my new address (as yet undetermined) will be the only one that works. In other words, there will be no forwarding of the old address. And I, like much of Ann Arbor, will be on vacation during this period. It should be a real SNAFU, and I don't mean "fouled up"! - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:35:48 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: British Ale Character Brewers: tonight for the first time, after having heard the name many times in this forum, I tried Traquair House Ale. Now this is certainly a fine beer. Smooth, complex, intense flavours of fruit and malt with a lingering sensation of sweetness. There is a flavour, or combination of flavours, in this beer that I can't put my finger on, but which I have found in two other British ales: Sam Smith's Taddy Porter and Harvey's Stout. Now, several years ago I posted to the HBD for help in cloning the Taddy Porter, and got a few good leads, but I've never been able to get close to this beer. It must be a combination of yeast strain, fermentation regime, and ingredients. I'm at a bit of a loss, as each of these three breweries employs older techniques for brewing, but the three beers vary in region, strength, and style. First, anyone know what I'm tasting in these beers? Is it a combination of British dark and crystal malts and diacetyl? What about a Wyeast strain and fermentation regime that could produce this effect? I've tried 1028 , 1098 and 1968 at various temperatures w/o success. Cheers, and good beers, Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:22:56 -0600 From: Joe Gibbens <jgibbens6 at attbi.com> Subject: re: h2o2 aeration Question: In Dr. Pivo's recent hydrogen peroxide experiment, is it possible that the "stalled" fermentation could be the yeast briefly returning to an aerobic cycle from the oxygen addition before resuming anerobic activity? "The peroxided protion "stalled" after 24 hours compared to its non treated twins, but after 48 hours seemed to have kicked back in to match them." Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:09:48 -0800 (PST) From: Al Beers <beersal at yahoo.com> Subject: BTF Iodophor vs. DiverseyLever Accord II Hi y'all, I recently came into a couple gallons of a sanitizer from DiverseyLever called Accord II. It looks and appears to be a clone of BTF Iodophor. A question for the scientific experts out there: Can the Accord II be used as Iodophor? Here are the ingredient lists: Accord II: Iodine (from Alkyl(C12-C15)poly(oxypropelene)poly(oxyethylene)and Octylphenoxypolyethoxy-ethanol-iodine complexes) 1.75%, and Phosphoric acid 18.75% and INERT INGREDIENTS 79.50%. It is used primarily as a food service sanitizer. The BTF Iodophor reads: Butoxy polypropoxy polyethoxy ethanol-iodine complex (providing 1.6% titratable iodine) 12.54%, INERT INGREDIENTS 87.46% As always, thank you all very much, Al ===== Brewing in Mt. Clemens, MI [48.4, 21] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 12/19/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96