HOMEBREW Digest #3833 Tue 08 January 2002


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Contents:
  Subject: cutting drain hole in keg ("Larry Cooney")
  cutting drain hole in keg ("John Zeller")
  Re:cutting drain hole in keg ("Richardson, Martin")
  RE: Globalization (John Wilkinson)
  JSP Maltmill Gear Drive Option (PensingerJ)
  Czech and Pilsner yeasts (question) (leavitdg)
  thermometers (Randy Ricchi)
  Subject: yeast strain equivalency chart ("Rogers, Mike")
  Re: cutting drain hole in keg ("Rogers, Mike")
  hop tea (CMEBREW)
  Re: Barley Cereal Mash Questions (Jeff Renner)
  Importing Guiness from a Cruise trip ("Hill, Steve")
  re: drain hole in keg (Ed Jones)
  Re:Thermometer Calibration ("Pete Calinski")
   ("Kirk Fleming")
  Barley wine HELP ("Mauricio Wagner")
  Re:How long to dry hop ("Pete Calinski")
  Brew TV and Smoked Malt (Richard Foote)
  Re: Thermometer calibration (Mark Kempisty)
  Water quality Testing ("Frank J. Russo")
  re:Barley Wine Fermentation (susan woodall)
  re: Clear Bottles (and skunked beer) (susan woodall)
  Cutting drain holes in kegs ("Mike")
  Thermometer Calibration (Richard Foote)
  "Breakfast Blend" (Aleconner)
  Big Bend Brew-Off (John Larsen)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 00:38:19 -0500 From: "Larry Cooney" <lyvewire1 at hotmail.com> Subject: Subject: cutting drain hole in keg Larry Maxwell asks about cutting a drain hole in a keg. Any good hole saw will cut it. Mark it where you want the hole and drill it first with a smaller size bit than the pilot bit in the hole saw. Use oil as you are drilling and this will keep you from dulling the bits. Take your time! I used a variable speed drill and kept it slow. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:07:41 -0800 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: cutting drain hole in keg Larry Maxwell asks, "What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS keg using hand tools?" (snip) The easy and accurate way is with a hole saw. The 3/4 inch hole saws are inexpensive and easy to use with nearly any hand held drill. A variable speed drill is preferred as you want to go slowly so as not to overheat the cutting blade. Use some light oil to cool and lubricate the blade as you go. WD-40 will work OK for this. Get a hole saw that is rated for both wood and metal and avoid the very cheap ones that may not last through the job. The hole saw will give you a nice clean hole which will only require very minor smoothing with some emery paper if anything at all. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:48:24 +1100 From: "Richardson, Martin" <RicharMP at Pasminco.com.au> Subject: Re:cutting drain hole in keg Larry Maxwell asks, >>> What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS keg using hand tools? <<< I was fortunate enough for my brother to obtain a hole saw that I could borrow. I am not very knowledgeable about tools, but as far as I know it was made from High Speed Steel and is shaped like a tube with a standard drill bit through the centre. This is used in conjunction with a standard power drill on low RPM's. I would not have a clue where to obtain one or how expensive they would be. I can tell you this though, when used with a cutting fluid it cut through my three stainless kegs like butter, and in no time at all I had perfect diameter holes. Maybe a good idea for a club to invest in? Cheers, Martin :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 03:25:04 -0600 From: John Wilkinson <jwilkinson at goquest.com> Subject: RE: Globalization Bob Hall wrote: >On a trip to Belfast a few years ago I was surprised to see the "Ice Cold >Guinness" banners hanging from pub walls. According to the bartenders, it >was the Guinness reaction to "Ice Cold Bud," an official sponsor of World >Cup soccer and an increasing favorite of the mass-consumption younger crowd. >Chalk up another one for globalization. Whoa! Globalization! You mean people could have what they want instead of what we think they should want? Can't have that, can we? John Wilkinson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 05:45:30 -0500 From: PensingerJ at NCTAMSLANT.NAVY.MIL Subject: JSP Maltmill Gear Drive Option I have been trying to email JSP Productions and keep getting a returned email. Permenant Fatal Errors. Does anyone have a good email address. I have been using arf at mc.net. Also on the same note. Has anyone retrofited a Maltmill with the gear drive option and if so how do you like it? Mike Pensinger beermkr at bellatlantic.net ITC(SW) Mike Pensinger NCTAMSLANT Det Hampton Roads Commitment Section CWO 757-836-5836 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:37:18 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Czech and Pilsner yeasts (question) I am planning an all-grain CAP sort of brew, and wonder: Has anyone used Czech Budejovice (wlp802) along with Pilsner-Lager Yeast (wlp800)? The latter vial is a year old so I don't want to pitch it alone... ..Darrell [545.7,72.3] apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:10:32 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: thermometers Bob Sheck asked about re-joining the red column in his thermometer with a little bit of the red stuff up at the top. I recently fixed this same problem myself. Boiling water won't drive the red column up high enough to connect with the blob at the end. Just put a little flame at the bottom of the thermometer until the columns connect. Takes a few seconds and works like a charm. I'd pull the flame away as soon as possible, though. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:27:23 -0500 From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com> Subject: Subject: yeast strain equivalency chart Gregory Ramirez asks for yeast equivalency charts. ======== Go to the source for the most current information. Both Whyte Labs and Wyeast have solid web sites. It's easy to compare the strains by viewing the posted information. You can print if desired... http://www.whitelabs.com/wl/search.asp http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edyechoo.htm Mike Rogers Cass River Homebrewers - Mid Michigan www.geocities.com\cassriverhomebrewers\beer mailto:mike01_rogers at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:35:58 -0500 From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com> Subject: Re: cutting drain hole in keg "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> wrote: What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS keg using hand tools? (I don't want to have to find someone with a plasma cutter.) ============= The best way is with a 3/4 bi-metal hole saw blade connected to your favorite drill. The hole saw provides for a small pilot bit which keeps the drill stable and allows you to have a very clean hole. You can pick one up for about $6 at any home improvement store. I have cut several sanke kegs with the same bit. Takes about 2 minutes... Mike Rogers Cass River Homebrewers - Mid Michigan www.geocities.com\cassriverhomebrewers\beer mailto:mike01_rogers at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:52:54 EST From: CMEBREW at aol.com Subject: hop tea I am considering boiling a qt. of water, cooling it to 160, pouring this over 3 or 4 oz of leaf hops, and steeping for 15". Then strain it thru a coffee filter into the bottom of a corny keg before filling with fresh brew. Will this add much hop flavor/aroma? I have hallertau tradition hops. I hope to hear from those who do this or have tried it. Charlie Preston in Mansfield, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:10:10 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Barley Cereal Mash Questions Joseph Kish <jjkish at att.net> asks: >Why am I using flaked barley to enhance the >head, when plain unmalted barley will simply >geletinize at mashing temperatures? Good question! Why? ;-) It's probably easier than grinding unmalted barley and conversion may be quicker since it is pre-gelatinized, but I wouldn't hesitate to use whole or pearled barley. > Most brewing supplies dealers do not handle >unmalted barley! They look at you like you >have two heads when you ask for unmalted >barley. Maybe I should look into animal feed >stores, or "pearled barley" in supermarkets? Animal feed stores will be selling some pretty dirty stuff. You don't want to know how it's been abused - rodent turds and pee, etc. Health food stores and food co-ops are good places to get whole barley or barley flour (mix it into the crushed malt to prevent lumping - small amounts shouldn't cause stuck mashes), and, as you suggest, pearled barley is easily available. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:47:22 -0500 From: "Hill, Steve" <Steve.Hill at apfs.com> Subject: Importing Guiness from a Cruise trip Hello all! Has anyone been on a cruise to St. Maarton, St. Thomas and Princess Cays? My wife and are going for our Anniversary this week. I NEED GOOD BEER! Any suggestions? Has anyone purchased Guinness from the Islands and brought it back home? The Islands 8% is way better (in my humble opinion) than the stuff they produce in Canada and ship to good old Pennsylvania. How hard was it to bring back? If anyone knows prices, or has suggestions please email and let me know as soon as you can. Thanks a ton! Steve Hill Email - needabeer at home.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:12:06 -0500 (EST) From: Ed Jones <ejones at ironacres.com> Subject: re: drain hole in keg The simplest thing for me is to use a step-drill to make the hole. I started with a pilot hole (1/4" I think) and drilled with the step drill after that. Very easy and precise. - -- Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian "When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment, I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery." - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:57:48 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com> Subject: Re:Thermometer Calibration >Now, the only problem, is that there is about a 1/2 >inch of red stuff jammed up at the top end, and the >main red stuff at the other end is not reading too >accurate. I have found that if you heat up the thermometer until the "main stuff" reaches the "red stuff jammed at the top end", the two will merge and all pull back together when it cools. If the "red stuff jammed at the top end" is really at the very end, I would be careful and take the heat away as soon as the two columns meet otherwise it may pop. Worked for me, hope it does for you. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:15:38 -0800 From: "Kirk Fleming" <kirkfleming at earthlink.net> Subject: In 3832 "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> asks about cutting a 3/4" hole in a stainless keg. I cut all the tops out of my kegs by, get this, drilling 3/32" holes along the scribed line, then punching out the scrap. This is a bit tedious, but for a 3/4" hole it shouldn't take more than 15 min or so. I recommend using a new, so-called 'cobalt' or titanium nitride drill bit. Obviously, drill your inside the desired line so they are tangent thereto, and drill them as close as possible. This leaves the least amount of 'web' between the holes so removal of the scrap piece is easier. I didn't say this is the 'best' way--primitive, but effective. Naturally, you then have to use a fine, round file (or hand grinder) to finish out the hole. Kirk Fleming FRSL, FRSE Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:22:26 -0300 From: "Mauricio Wagner" <mwagner at alean.com.ar> Subject: Barley wine HELP I'm living in Argentina (very known this days in the news, we had 5 presidents in 3 weeks.....). OK, lets go to our subject... I'm trying to brew my first ALL GRAIN - Barley wine. I would like some help in the following topics: 1) We don't have access to the British Pale malt. We use as base malt the one used by the Big Boys here, PILSEN MALT. Do I have to take in account something with this change? 2) Which liquid YEAST you suggest me to use? and other alternatives? Also what do you think for this use about the dry Yeast from SAFALE or Nottingham? 3) I'll try to use the following malt Bill. #9 Pilsen Malt #0.5 Crystal 70 Lobibond #0.5 Munich I have also Wheat malt. Do you suggest to add it? Let say to add #0.5 to the malt bill.? Do you suggest to add or change anything? I want to get a 10% alcohol in Volume. (approx.) 4) Do I try to be during mashing below 65 Centigrades or higher (more fermentables or not)? I use single step infusion. 5) water to grain relation for mashing? 2 liter /Kg is Ok? Thank you in advance, Mauricio Wagner Buenos Aires - Argentina Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:30:10 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com> Subject: Re:How long to dry hop There may be a temperature factor to consider. I normally dry hop with the carboy around 65F to 68F. I seem to sense the grassy flavor after 7 to 10 days. It could be just my imagination though. I haven't done any blind tastings etc. Also, maybe there is a pressure factor. I bottle condition but dry hopping in a keg under pressure might give a different effect. I can't say since I don't do it. Like the Pope and birth control, you donna playa the game, you donna maka da rules. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 10:38:29 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Brew TV and Smoked Malt Hi, I thought this was interesting. Check it out at: http://www.extranettv.com/index.html Page down to "Brewin' With Herb". Has anyone ever heard of this or viewed the program? Smoked Malt: What is the flavor threshold for smoked malt in a five gallon batch? What is the minimum needed to reach a decernible level? I know there are lots of variables. To reduce some of these, lets assume fresh, commercial rauch malt (Weyermann). Just get me within spittin' distance. Thanks. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 11:32:04 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Re: Thermometer calibration Bob Sheck asks about getting separated thermometer fluids back together. I had this happen many years ago on a thermometer I really didn't care about. I heated it up until the the red line was all the way to the top and then let it cool slowly. This thermometer topped out at 150 so I think I just used a light bulb. You may need to use a flame. I never officially tested the calibration after that but the thermometer seemed accurate. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:04:27 -0500 From: "Frank J. Russo" <fjrusso at coastalnet.com> Subject: Water quality Testing Can anyone tell me where I can get my water tested for the ions listed below that are a concern / interest to us Home Brewers? Seven primary ions that have a substantial influence on the beer making process 1. Calcium (Ca+2) 2. Sulfate (SO4-2) 3. Magnesium (Mg+2) 4. Chloride (C1-1) 5. Sodium (Na+1) 6. Carbonate (CO3-2) 7. Bicarbonate 2 (HCO3-1) Secondary Ions 1. Iron (Fe+1) or (Fe+2) 2. Cooper (Cu+1) 3. Silicate (SiO3-2) 4. Zinc (ZN+2) 5. Manganese (Mn+2 Frank Russo ATF Home Brew Club New Bern NC "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for the good men to do nothing." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 09:12:49 -0800 From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com> Subject: re:Barley Wine Fermentation It sounds like you have the problem is chill haze. You could raise the fermentation temp a little and that will go away. Some chill haze is normal and will settle over time. As long as you age Barley Wine (months) that shouldn't be a problem and it will settle out in the bottle. Try raising your temp when you transfer or bottle and you will leave those proteins on the bottom. Dave Woodall John Wrote: The stuff took off within a few hours. It vigorously fermented and was at high kreusen within 24. It stayed that way longer than most beers but I guess this is to be expected. Today is the 5th of January. The stuff is still in the primary and is very cloudy. The trub has been at the bottom now for a couple of weeks but there are still globs of stuff running around in there and the cloudy look suggests active fermentation. It bubbles every few seconds. The brew is at about 66 degrees. My question is this: Normally I leave a brew in the primary until it pretty much clears. Then I rack to the secondary. Knowing that Barley Wine takes a while I'm willing to wait for the primary to clear. Is this necessary? Should I rack to the secondary to avoid off flavors? Any opinions are welcome. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 09:17:58 -0800 From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com> Subject: re: Clear Bottles (and skunked beer) no, incandescent bulbs do not affect beer in the same manner as sunlight but flourescent light would skunk you beer! Rama Roberts wrote: BTW- speaking of clear bottles (and skunked beer) this month's Brew Your Own magazine has an article on cold weather brewing. One of their suggestions was to build a warming box, essentially a light bulb and your carboy in a closed space. I admit I don't know if incandescent bulbs produce the same light spectrum in sunlight responsible for reacting with isomerized hops, but this just seems a bit dangerous to me. Anyone know for sure? - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:49:46 -0800 From: "Mike" <brewski at inet99.net> Subject: Cutting drain holes in kegs I use a Greenlee knock-out or chassie punch. The is what folks like = electricians and electronic technicians us to punch holes in metal = cabnets. This is going to cost a few bucks but do an excellant job. And = the SS cuts like butter. My second choice would be a hole saw. Not the cheapie grade sold at = K-Mart and Wal-Mart, the contractor grade sold at places like Lowes. The chassie punch makes a relative nice clean hold and does it very = easily. Sawing a hole through SS is rough and leaves a hole with lots of = sharp edges but once the fitting is put through the hole who cares. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:28:32 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Thermometer Calibration Bob Sheck writes: >Now, the only problem, is that there is about a 1/2 >inch of red stuff jammed up at the top end, and the >main red stuff at the other end is not reading too >accurate. >Anyone got any advice? I too have a thermometer that has and continues to have this problem. In fact, it happened only yesterday--twice! It does seem to throw the accuracy way off, causing it to read lower than it should by 6 or so degrees. The method I've used, with mixed results, (more on that soon) is to hold the thermometer bulb over a gas flame, as from a butane/propane torch or gas burner on low flame. Watch carefully as the red stuff creeps (hopefully) toward the little bulb in the top end. Don't let it go like a freight train (see earlier cautionary note) or it will keep right on going out the top end. Doh! I have done this. Just as soon as the top bulb is filled with the errant red stuff (alcohol, I hope), immediately immerse the bulb into cool water. This will prevent the run-away freight train phenomenon and suck the red stuff back down into the bulb. Alternatively, you may choose to buy a new thermometer. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 18:02:26 EST From: Aleconner at aol.com Subject: "Breakfast Blend" Chris Carson brings up an interesting topic about breakfast cereals used in beer making. Back in '96 or so, the Chicago Beer Society hosted a homebrew competition wherein brewers were required to use an off-the-shelf breakfast cereal as part of the grain bill. As chance would have it, long time HBD'er Al Korzonas won the competition for his entry -which I believe was some 7-grain cereal. I'm sure he'd be happy to share the finer details. P.S. Michael Jackson was in town at the time and actually participated as a judge at this competition. Marty Nachel Bustanut Brewery <<Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 10:42:02 -0600 From: Chris Carson <chris at webesota.com> Subject: Real cereal adjuncts!!! Every so often, I buy a box of Post Grape-Nuts cereal for my breakfast meal (or for late-night snacking). Last night, I was reading the side of the cereal box and I read the ingredient list: malted barley flour wheat flour salt yeast Well, needless to say I started to laugh... Does ANYONE think that you could add this to a brew as an adjunct?? My first thought would be that the you'd have to treat it like oatmeal, because they do get pretty soggy. Would the salt render it unsuitable for brewing? Sort of a different spin on the phrase "Breakfast Blend"?>> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 23:21:39 -0500 From: John Larsen <jlarsen at nxus.com> Subject: Big Bend Brew-Off This announcement was meant to go out a week ago, but I had a brain problem and the posting attempt failed. I know this is late for many of you, but for those of you in the Southeast, there's still time if you hustle.The Tallahassee-based North Florida Brewers League (www.nfbl.org) is hosting the 7th Annual Big Bend Brew Off competition on 1/19/02. This is the first general homebrew competition of the year in the country and a great opportunity to test-drive your homebrews. All BJCP styles (beers,meads and ciders) are accepted. The time to send in your entries is now! Entries will be accepted until 1/12/02. That is only a few days. Go to the website to read the rules and download entry forms: www.nfbl.org John Larsen Judge Director, Big Bend Brew-Off 2002 Return to table of contents
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