HOMEBREW Digest #3902 Sat 30 March 2002

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  Re: Odd brewing practices... (Jeff Renner)
  Subject: Barley Wine Ale ("Eric R. Lande")
  Connicals ("Jim Busch")
  Diacetyl rest in the bottle (Bill Frazier)
  RIMS temperature control ("Norman L. Brewer")
  Mini-keg Bung Temperature Tolerance (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  Re: Rims configuration ("Robert Humphrey")
  Re: Pressure Relief ("Michael O'Donnell")
  US Plastics Conical (John Maylone)
  re: Partial Mashes ("Mark Tumarkin")
  RE: Bottling procedure ("Steve Jones")
  RE:adjustable pressure relief ("Walter H. Lewis III")
  RE: adjustable pressure relief/Maple wine ("Eric Ahrendt")
  Re: Conical & chilling idea (Jeff Renner)
  alcohol-free beer (ensmingr)
  Conical Racking Tubes ("Jim Bermingham")
  RE: Hop shoots (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  Baltic porters (Greg Remake)
  Hop Rhizomes (Bill Wible)
  Off flavor in tap system ("Doug Hurst")
  sanitizing bottles (Steve Tighe)
  Baltic Porter ("David Craft")
  Re: Why use a "racking port"? (David Towson)
  hop shoots (Marc Morency)
  Partial Mashes (Al Klein)
  First Partial Mash (Al Klein)
  RIMS (Al Klein)
  Re: baby hops and hops sprouts ("Dave and Joan King")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:44:52 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Odd brewing practices... Most of us compost, but here's what Pat Babcock claims he does with his - he dresses it: >the tutu was my jacket around my waste. Actually, I guess that would help hold in the heat produced by composting. Should speed things up. Jeff (feeling no more silly than Pat evidently did!) - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:05:19 -0500 From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Subject: Barley Wine Ale In HBD #3899 Mike Mullins says that he is worried that his barley wine won't have enough yeast in suspension to carbonate in the bottle. I would guess, Mike, that there is still yeast available. The best way to be sure, however, would be to Kraeusen the batch to be bottled at a rate of 4-6 liters of actively fermenting wort per barrel to be bottled. This comes from "Barley Wine" by Fal Allen & Dick Cantwell, part of the Classic Beer Style book series. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:01:20 -0500 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Connicals on the concept of a tank within a tank and running glycol through the center, the idea is valid as this is how pro CCF are fabricated, doublewalled but the inside is wrapped with piping to contain the glycol. As for using a frige for the chilling capacity of the glycol resevoir, I tried this when I first setup my 1BBL uni at home. The problem is that during high krausen, the heat generated by the fermentation rapidly consumes the reserved chilling resevoir, and the frige has a hard time to rechill the glycol. Eventually you BTW, the biggest heat load is during high krausen, so post ferment you can drop the temp over time to cold condition. I then purchased a real glycol chiller from Rapids, the type used for long draw tap systems. This works since the resevoir is cooled by immersion coils that sit inside the glycol. IMO , the biggest drawback to low cost CCF's for homebrewers is chilling. Without chilling in some form, you are really limited to estery ales/Belgians and anything that can stand ferment temps in the high 70sF. Cheapest solution is to place the unit inside a cold room/frige of some sort, but this is still just passive cooling that can lead to highly variable temps inside the tank. Lynne wonders about the racking ports. Pro CCFs have three dispense ports of significance, the sample port for the Zwickel, the bottom yeast/protein drop triclover/butterfly, and of course the racking port with rotatable arm. In larger units, this is very useful to have to help reduce the protein/yeast load on the filter. Its even useful on my 1 BBL version. Im not so certain it would be required in sizes less than 15 gals, as the distance between the racking port and the bottom port are very small. If you do have a racking port, I advise to have it double plumbed with triclovers so you can rotate the arm in place to get clearer beer during the bulk transfer and then rotate down to get the last more turbid beer. As for carbonating, most pros do spund the tank to capture C02 but to finish the carbonation to the right degree the carbonating stone is placed in the brite beer tank prior to packaging. (Being able to spund the tank and also move the beer under CO2 pressure is one of my favorite features of the CCF but this does come with a higher price). Designing CCFs for homebrewers is a serious challenge due to cost tradeoffs. Most homebrewers scoff at the idea of a tank that costs 1K or more, but to really get the most out of such a design requires a considerable investment. Perhaps the hobby could use one low end/low cost design and one high end SS pressure and CIP capable one. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 05:32:24 -0600 From: Bill Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Diacetyl rest in the bottle Yesterday I responded to a question posted by Darrell Levitt. He asked "I know that a diacetyl rest at the end of fermentation is generally called for with a lager/pilsner..but I wonder...could this rest be performed after bottling?" My answer..."sure, you can do a diacetyl rest after bottling. However, you would be better served by doing a diacetyl rest in a carboy so the diacetyl can escape thru the air lock. After bottling, everything will remain in the beer." I've been reminded by several that this is incorrect. I appreciate the correction as I hate passing on momilies or poor info. The diacetyl doesn't escape but is metabolized by the yeast. I agree totally with this...did some remedial reading of my Noonan. I've been a proponent, for years, of leaving the beer on the primary yeast until fermentation is complete. I made enough beer, early in my brewing experience, that finished with high FGs and all kinds of funky flavors to have learned that lesson. Yeast makes beer. My take on diacetyl rests is...they should be performed before bottling, before the beer is racked off it's big yeast sediment in the fermenter. I had always assumed (dangerous) that part of this process was venting of some fermentation by-products that you wouldn't want in the beer. Of course, the diacetyl is not venting but is being processed by the yeast. However, I'm not sure Darrell can accomplish what he wants after the beer has been racked off the active yeast cake and is in the confinement of the bottle. Bottled beer does go changes after it is conditioned. Rough flavors fade and the true nature of the beer comes through. Yeast does this but I don't know how much the small amount of bottling yeast can handle. There are some beers bottled with yeast and high diacetyl (Redhook comes to mind but I'm not sure it contains yeast any more). The diacetyl remains in the beer so perhaps there's not enough yeast left to process the diacetyl. Anyway, sorry for any miss-information on this subject. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:28:21 -0500 From: "Norman L. Brewer" <norman_brewer at nishanet.com> Subject: RIMS temperature control Steven Parfitt asks several questions about RIMS temperature control 1. Why doesn't the RIMS heater deactivate enzymes? It will if you aren't careful. Two key factors are circulation rate and temperature control (discussed below). The circulation rate is controlled by how fast the wort drains through your filter or screen. On my system I can get about 1 gallon/minute of flow initially, and that rate increases as the temperature rises and the mash process converts more starch to sugar. So what sort of temperature rise would we see in the circulating wort with a 1250 watt heater and a 1 gallon per minute flow? 1250 watts * 1 (BTU/sec) / 1055 watts = 1.18 btu/sec 1 gallon/minute * 8lb/gallon * 1 minute/60sec = .133 lb/sec temperature rise = heat/(m*Cp) where Cp is heat capacity of water ~ 1 btu/(lb deg F) temp rise across heater = 1.18/.133 = 8.85 degrees F. On my system, I have to throttle the pump output do keep from pumping faster than the wort can drain through the grain bed. If I pump too fast, the pump starts sucking air, loses its prime, and I have to shut it off and let the liquid build up again. 1 gallon per minute seems about the best I can routinely sustain. So without a good control system you could easily overheat the wort. If the flow were cut in half, the temperature increases doubles to 17 degrees without some sort of control. The key to good control is the placement of the temperature measurement, as discussed below. 2. How can the controller reach the desired output temperature? PID controllers have a measurement, which in this case is the RIMS temperature measurement, and a setpoint, which is what the user wants the temperature to be. The controller error is calculated as the difference between the setpoint and the measurement. The controller output is the percentage of time the RIMS heater is on and is in the range of 0 to 100%. The proportional gain of the controller determines how much a change in the error affects the controller's output. By adjusting the gain of the controller, you create a "proportional band" around the setpoint, and if the measurement is within the proportional band, then the controller output will be in the range of 0 to 100. If the measurement is outside of the proportional band, then the controller output will be either 0 or 100 and will not change with changes in the measurement. If the controller is set up properly, the proportional band is only 1-2 degrees around the setpoint. So if the measurement is 135 and the setpoint is 150, then the controller output will remain full on until the temperature reaches 149, and then will quickly cut back as the temperature approaches 150. The above discussion describes the P or proportional part of a PID controller's output. The proportional output is determined by changes in error. The Integral or I part of a PID controller's output is determined by the magnitude of the error. If an error persists, the integral action of the controller keeps making changes to the output in order to drive the error to zero. For RIMS systems, the contribution of the D or derivative action to the controller's output is not significant and the D tuning factor should be turned off. So how do you achieve good RIMS temperature control? The first principal is to place the measurement as close as possible to the heater. My RIMS system has the measurement just downstream of the heater in the piping that returns the wort to the tun. Although I really want to control the RIMS mash tun temperature, controlling the temperature of the liquid flowing into the mash tun results in good mash tun temperature control. You can't really measure any difference in temperature between the returning wort and the main body of the tun once the temperature comes to steady state. Placing the measurement in the recirculating wort has the added advantage in that you never overheat the wort, which could deactivate enzymes. If you place the measurement in the mash tun itself, then the temperature of the circulating wort could rise well above the desired mash tun temperature, especially if the temperature measurement is in a place where it doesn't see good circulation. The worst possible location for the temperature sensor would be at the inlet to the heater, because this provides the longest delay between the controller output and measurement As a rule, delay = degraded control with control systems. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:44:16 -0500 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: Mini-keg Bung Temperature Tolerance Thanks to Paul Kensler's advice, I've built a Rubbermaid cooler mash/lauter tun using mini-keg bungs and pipe nipple as bulkhead fittings, and am really happy with the results over several batches. I'm thinking of using the same arrangement to make a hopback (BYO project from October 2001 issue) in place of the fittings recommended in the parts list for the project. Why? Because I've got the mini-keg bungs, I've used them before and liked the results, and I just have to modify something. Here's the question: I'm wondering if anyone has information on the temperature tolerance of rubber mini-keg bungs (Fass Frisch) -- 170F is no problem, but near-boiling wort will be running through the hopback, and I could easily go with the brass fittings on the list before I go ahead with the project. Private e-mail is fine. - --Rob Hanson the Closet Brewery Cheverly, MD - ----------- Life, alas, is very drear. Up with the glass! Down with the beer! - --Louis Untermeyer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:17:40 -0600 From: "Robert Humphrey" <romeohotel at ev1.net> Subject: Re: Rims configuration "Steven Parfitt" asked about Rims control, and I may be able to clear, or muddy , things up. "I've got a WATLOW PID controller and power TRIAC to control the heater with (Thanks John) so I shouldn't have any trouble with that." An excellent choice. I'm assuming you have a 965 series temperature controller. These are great temp. controllers, but you need to know a little about process measurement and controls. You described your heating element as " I used a screw in hot water heating element, and can swap them out to select different heat densities. I plan on using a 4500W 230VAC unit at 115VAC for 1125W, with a 3500W 230VAC element as an option of 875W at 115VAC. I can always put a blocking diode series with the element to cut that in half, so I have options for 1125, 875, 562.5, and 437.5 Watts, so Scorched wort shouldn't be a problem." Basically you are describing a temperature control element that will either be turned on, or turned off, as opposed to an element that can be turned on in increments. This negates the use of a "pid" controller. Instead you will be doing what is called "on/off control". Luckily, the watlow series 965 can be programmed for on/off control, however, as you described you worries, this is not the most accurate way to control temperature, as it usually involves either long warm up times, or over run of the target (called "setpoint") temperature. If you had a way to control the voltage (and thereby control the power) to your heating element you could use the pid function of this controller. The 965 has an auto tune function that will set the derivative ("d", otherwise known as "rate") to maximum efficiency where the controller will allow the setpoint to be reached quickly, yet by monitoring the "rate" of temperature change it will keep from overshooting the setpoint. I like the Watlow, and use one to control my herms, but I do this for a living and can get variable drives quite cheaply. If I can be of help, please feel free to email me direct. Robert Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 23:11:00 -0800 From: "Michael O'Donnell" <mooseo at stanford.edu> Subject: Re: Pressure Relief "Does anyone know how to make an adjustable pressure relief valve that can be attached to gas QD of a corny keg." Hi David, I made one by going to McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) and buying an "Adjustable Brass Vacuum / Pressure relief valve" Part # 48935K25 for $7.33... it has a 1/4" NPT fitting on it... attach your favorite pipe-to-tubing fitting, add a short bit of tubing and attach it to a gas disconnect. I use this setup to release pressure when I am filtering and use the same valve on my counter-pressure bottle filler. When you get it, mine was set up as a vacuum valve... needed to take it apart and swap the ball and spring, but that takes a second and needs no tools. One disclaimer; next to using the final product, my favorite part of this hobby is building the gear. If you'd rather just have one, you can buy it ready-made. Check www.morebeer.com (no affiliation, yadayada) and search for an adjustable pressure relief valve. Unless you can tag the McMaster part onto a work order to not pay shipping, this actually might be a cheaper option. cheers, mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:11:48 -0800 From: John Maylone <mrkoala at mac.com> Subject: US Plastics Conical I need to correct an error in an earlier post. The US Plastics conical #9349 does NOT come with a stand...this is item #9352 and runs an additional $103.52...more than the plastic cone itself. Back to the drawing board for mois......... John Maylone Tollhouse, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 06:50:42 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: Partial Mashes you wrote: I've got one of those "whirly-gig" sparge arms. It's fun to use. If my wife isn't busy, she'll put on her leopard print Sparge Queen costume. She raises her scepter and proclaims, "Let the sparge begin." I turn the valve and make noises of an hydraulic kind. Water sprays out and the arm turns around. It's supposed to raise efficiency gee, Mark, I read about your 'sparging ritual' with great interest, a video would be awesome - sure to be a big seller in homebrew shops everywhere. Do you think it's the leopard print costume or the water noise chant that raises efficiency? ;>) Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:45:32 -0500 From: "Steve Jones" <stjones1 at chartertn.net> Subject: RE: Bottling procedure I thought I'd chime in on sharing my bottling procedure, too. First, I always rinse my bottles very well right after pouring, and stand upside down in the drainer. The next day I take them downstairs and store them in cases upside down. On bottling day (I use a CP filler, but I'd do the same with conditioning) I take out the number of cases of bottles I'll need, then set up a sort of assembly line process like so, sort of in a semi-circular fashion: Cases of clean bottles to right of sink on floor 5 gallon bucket of iodophor in front of sink on floor. bottle tree to left of sink cp filler (with bench capper) to left of bottle tree empty cases to left of filler. I start by putting 12 bottles in the iodophor for about 10 minutes, then pulling them out and put on tree (no rinsing). Immediately put 12 more bottles in iodophor. repeat one more time, so there are 24 bottles on tree and 12 in bucket when I begin filling. While a bottle is filling, I pull two bottles from iodophor, drain, and put on tree. When all bottles are out of the bucket, I begin adding two at a time to the bucket while a bottle is filling. I continue this process until the keg is dry, then hook up the next keg (if I'm doing more than one) and continue. I don't rinse, don't care if the bottles are dry, because the residual amount of iodophor just isn't enough to detect in the beer. Often the bottles are only in the iodophor for a few minutes, but when you put them on the tree, the inside is still wet, which in my book still counts toward the contact time. By the time I fill the bottle, it has been at least 20 minutes of contact time. I've been doing it this way for 4 years and can only remember one bad bottle in all that time, and I've re-used bottles at least 6 or 8 times without any washing or brushing. It works for me. Steve Jones Johnson City, TN http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:04:53 -0500 From: "Walter H. Lewis III" <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com> Subject: RE:adjustable pressure relief An adjustable pressure relief valve is easy to build. I got the relief valve from Surplus Center 800-488-3407 part #4-1303 Pressure Relief Valve $3.99 Brand new Norgren 25-50psi. I took a brass "T" fitting, attatched an "in" quick disconnect to one leg of the "T", a pressure guage to one and the relief valve to the third. From here you begin fermentation and watch the guage. When you reach your desired pressure, slowly open the relief valve until you hear gas escaping and then tighten back down a tiny bit. This will maintain a constant pressure quite well and does a great job of having finished, carbonated beer at the end of fermentation. Walt Lewis Huntington WV GHHA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:00:56 -0500 From: "Eric Ahrendt" <Rock67 at PeoplePC.com> Subject: RE: adjustable pressure relief/Maple wine David Passaretti asks: "Does anyone know how to make an adjustable pressure relief valve that can be attached to gas QD of a corny keg. This way I could replace the airlock with the pressure relief valve somewhere towards the end of fermentation and not worry about too much pressure build up" I've thought about doing this myself. Without going into the details of the fittings required, why don't you plumb up a gas pressure requlator to whatever port you are using to vent CO2? You can then set the regulator to vent any gas that builds over your setpoint. An accurate low pressure gauge would help a lot (I'm fortunate enough to have one.) Then you just need to calculate the PSI required at the desired volumes CO2 at the temperature you're working with. As far as the regulator goes, any regulator meant to be used with compressed air would work. Look in the tool section of the big home stores. Any gauge you're likely to find there will be very cheap and not accurate at the pressures we're talking about. You'll probably just have to 'spurment. I figure this is an easy (lazy) way to hit the correct carbonation every time. On another note, the maple sap is running like crazy here right now. I've collected almost 20 gallons out of the big tree next to the driveway. Gravity of the sap clocks in at right around 1.008. Does this sound right? Anybody have any suggestions for what gravity I should stop boiling at if I want to make staight maple wine/beer? (Time to go change the propane tank!) Thanks. Eric Ahrendt Fremont, OH USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:15:31 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Conical & chilling idea Lonzo McLaughlin <lonkelm at yahoo.com> suggests fabricating a plastic water jacket for a plastic conical fermenter and asks >What do you think? Any other ideas? How about an immersion chiller/attemperator? You could use the same immersion chiller you use for brewing and hook it up as Mark Ohrstrom suggested. Sounds a lot simpler than either Mark's suggestion of another (stainless steel) conical or making a jacket. BTW, back to the 50 gallons of CAP that we brewed for the 2000 NHC. We used Mike O'Brien's (pico-Brewing Systems) stainless cylindro-conical fermenter. It is bigger than we needed - maybe 80 gallons?) and has a cooling jacket. Mike rigged up a half barrel Sankey of glycol in a home freezer next to this beast and hooked a pump up to a thermostat connected to a probe in the fermenter. It did a dandy job of maintaining 50F during fermentation, then he dropped the temperature over several days to 32F for lagering. Seems to me it could even hold pressure and that we carbonated in it before transferring to kegs prior to bottling. Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:29:34 -0500 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: alcohol-free beer Over the years, some HBD'rs have been interested in making alcohol-free homebrew. Just saw the article below which might interest ya'll. I wonder how their beer tasted? And if their yeast is available? Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY - ----- Biotechnol Appl Biochem 2002 Apr;35(Pt 2):133-40 Production of non-alcoholic beer using free and immobilized cells of Saccharomyces cerevisiae deficient in the tricarboxylic acid cycle. Navratil M, Domeny Z, Sturdik E, Smogrovicova D, Gemeiner P. Department of Biochemical Technology, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology, Radlinskeho 9, SK-81237 Bratislava, Slovak Republic. Production of non-alcoholic beer using Saccharomyces cerevisiae has been studied. Non-recombinant mutant strains with a defect in the synthesis of tricarboxylic-acid-cycle enzymes were used and applied in both free and pectate-immobilized form, using both batch and packed-bed continuous systems. After fermentation, basic parameters of the beer produced by five mutant strains were compared with a standard strain of brewing yeast. Results showed that the beer prepared by mutant yeast cells was characterized by lower levels of total alcohols, with ethanol concentrations between 0.07 and 0.31% (w/w). The organic acids produced, especially lactic acid, in concentrations up to 1.38 g small middle dotl(-1) had a strong protective effect on the microbial stability of the final product and thus the usual addition of lactic acid could be omitted. Application of the yeast mutants appears to be a good alternative to the classical methods for the production of non-alcoholic beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:54:06 -0600 (Central Standard Time) From: "Jim Bermingham" <bermingham at antennaproducts.com> Subject: Conical Racking Tubes I'm not sure what Lynne O'Connor or St. Pats has done to ruffle Wayne Holder AKA Zyme's feathers. I thought the response to Lynne's questions by Danny Johnson was excellent. Also, those given by Art Tyszka, Bill Pierce and Brian Lundeen were good answers to her question. I would have answered her question but I didn't know the answer. I bought mine with a racking port because it made the whole thing look neater. I have my conical setting in the den, and when people stop by, I point the thingie out and tell them That's the racking port". It seems to impress them. They always nod their head and utter "OK", then I point to the next thingie and tell them "This is the dump port" Again they nod their head and say "OK" By that time my wife usually comes over and leads them off some where and I stand by my toy waiting on the next guest to ask "What the hell is that? The HBD is usually a great source in getting your questions on Home Brewing supplies, equipment and techniques answered. The dumbest of the dumb, the list that I head up (sorry Phil), can ask questions without the fear of being flamed too bad. Wayne napalmed Lynne. Of course it could be, being a grown man and having people call him "AKA Zyme" is what has his feathers ruffled. I get my feathers ruffled sometimes because of my name too. When you start putting your name on a form and the space provided has only enough room for people with the last name containing 7 letters, I get ruffled feathers. If I ever find out that Lynne designed those forms she had better look out. Talk about flaming someone. Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:50:12 -0500 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: RE: Hop shoots Hans Aikema writes: >And, did anyone ever eat hop sprouts (expensive? tasty?) Last spring around this time on my first trip to Belgium, my wife and I splurged and went out to dinner while in Bruges at Den Dyver -- a beer cuisine restaurant. Each course was served with a tasting size (6 oz or so -- though sometimes you got the whole bottle) of a beer they'd paired with the dish. I specifically went for the menu with the hop shoot salad on it, since I had been dreaming about getting one for months, once I had realized we'd be there in the season. It was delicious, but I couldn't tell you if it was the dressing, my long expectation, or the two beers I had at Bruges Beertje (a beer bar) before dinner. The dinner was more expensive than any other we had while in Belgium, but not too bad (even for a couple on two nonprofit salaries) Anyway, if you have enough hop shoots (or know someone who does) give the hop shoot salad a try! I think there might even be a recipe for it in one of Michael Jackson's books (but I can't say for sure). And, if you're in Holland, maybe you could pop over to Belgium for a day sometime soon to scout out a salad? - --Rob Hanson the Closet Brewery Cheverly, MD Life, alas, is very drear. Up with the glass! Down with the beer! - --Louis Untermeyer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:38:31 -0600 From: Greg Remake <gremake at gsbpop.uchicago.edu> Subject: Baltic porters Thanks to those who posted here and replied to me with your information about Baltic porters. Tom Gardner sent me the following link and directions to a very informative discussion on his club's website, including a well thought out draft for style guidelines. Also in the discussion is a link to Dave Brockington's interesting reviews of a number of commercial Baltics. I'm still formulating my recipe, but it will use plenty of Vienna, Munich, and crystals with some dark roasted malts and a mild hopping rate, maybe only FWH. - --------------------- Subject: Baltic Porter Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:05:49 EST From: TomAGardner at cs.com To: gremake at gsbpop.uchicago.edu Greg, A guy in my homebrew club has been exploring the style and just posted some ideas on the club website. Check out www.foamontherange.org and go to the message section under the all about beer subsection. Enjoy, Tom - --------------------- Cheers! Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:31:03 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Hop Rhizomes I have a rhizome called Glacier, which I am not able to find info on anywhere. Anybody know about this hop, or where I can find info on it? A web search turned up nothing but Alaska and places in Alaska. Go figure. I waded through the results for awhile, then gave up. Thanks! Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:50:04 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Off flavor in tap system Thanks to a couple of suggestions from the collective re: using air tool fittings to get my CO2 through the freezer door, I have a fully operational two tap upright kegerator. But now I have a new problem, which I hope someone can help me solve. Since I currently am out of homebrew (blasphemy!) I decided to fill a Cornie with filtered water to have carbonated water on tap. It works great. However, I have been noticing a very prominent chemical-like (plastic?) flavor and aroma in the water. It occurs in the first glass I draw off after it has been sitting a couple hours. I assume that the flavor/aroma is coming from the water that has been in prolonged contact with the 3/16" beer line I purchased from B3. What I don't understand is why. Their website states: "Beer line is not the same as hardware store tubing. All of our beer line is odorless, tasteless, and non-toxic FDA rated clear tubing. All lines have 1/8" thick walls and are rated for use in gas line applications as well." They don't say what the tubing is made of, and, I don't know much about plastic. I'd like to eliminate this problem because, while I don't mind throwing out the first glass of water, I would mind throwing out the first glass of homebrew. Additionally, it makes me worry about what chemicals I'm drinking. Any ideas how to get rid of the problem? Thanks, Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:01:26 -0800 (PST) From: Steve Tighe <steve_tighe at yahoo.com> Subject: sanitizing bottles Well, now that I went ahead and made my first post the other day, I may as well keep going. My bottle sanitizing procedure is wrapped up in my overall sanitizing approach during the bottling process. It probably sounds more complex than it really is. Like most everyone else, I rinse out my bottles as soon as they're empty. I collect 'em in old 12-pack holders (often empty wine cases, since they're tall enough to hold both 12 and 22-ounce bottles). When I've got a full box, I soak them in a bucket in a solution of Straight-A cleanser (BTW, I don't see too much about this stuff on HBD; any thoughts about it as opposed to PBW or other products - it's worked well for me) for awhile - a couple hours to overnight. With all but the most stubborn labels (the worst seem to be Sam Adams and Russian River) this is enough to remove them easily. I give the bottles a good scrub with my bottle brush and rinse them a couple times, and put them back in the case upside down. On bottling day the first thing I do is fill up a carboy (which I use as a bottling "bucket) with iodophor. While that soaks I go get the secondary and start boiling my corn sugar solution. After about 10 minutes I siphon the iodophor from the carboy into a bucket, which also gives my siphon some good contact time with the sanitizer. I then immerse 12 bottles into the bucket of iodophor, pour the sugar water into the carboy, and rack the beer into the carboy. When the transfer is done, I dump out the iodophor from the first 12 bottles, put the next 12 into the bucket, and fill/cap the first round. When that's done I repeat till the carboy is empty. Like I said it probably seems more complex than it is. My procedure has evolved over time till I can do the whole thing - start to cleanup - for a five-gallon batch in about an hour and a half. And it lets me sanitize everything on bottling day with one five-gallon batch of sanitizer. Of course, soon it'll be time to experiment with my new (well, used) kegging system! You may see another post in a week or so about that... Steve Tighe Berkeley CA (pretty far west and a little south of Jeff Renner) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:14:16 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Baltic Porter Greetings, Baltic Porter sounds like a great sub-style to add to the current list of entries. It has history and heritage and is distinctly different. A fellow brewer is my town brewed one by accident a few years ago and it turned me into an all grain brewer. After tasting that beer and looking at his grain bill, I knew I had to brew all grain. I am finishing up the last of three batches started last night. English Pale, Oud Bruin, and Belgian Dark Strong.............. How about it, let's add Baltic Porter to the list! I plan on making one this fall. Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:33:41 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Why use a "racking port"? In Homebrew Digest #3900 (March 28, 2002), Lynne O'Connor asked why one would use a side "racking port" on a conical fermenter instead of just dumping the yeast from the bottom port and then bottling/kegging through that. Two reasons come to mind. First, I have found that well sedimented yeast, particularly if the beer has been cooled to lager temperatures, can be very reluctant to come out through a half-inch ball valve without some prodding with a sanitized rod or similar object. I prefer to do that after the beer has been drawn off so I can stir the yeast up all I want without it causing a problem. Yeast compaction is probably not a problem in a commercial unitank because (1) it is high enough to have a good static head, and (2) it has a much larger valve. But in a little homebrew tank with only about a foot-and-a-half of beer, there isn't much static head to get the yeast moving. The other thing I've noted is that yeast tends to cling to the sloping side of the cone, and then dribble out over time. That might be desirable for bottle conditioning, since a little yeast is needed for that to occur. But for kegging with forced carbonation, yeast in the keg is a nuisance. I debated with myself for quite a while before committing to pay the price for the rotating arm on my conical, but I have never regretted getting it. It allows me to get clear beer out with ease, and then mess with the yeast later. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:31:52 -0800 (PST) From: Marc Morency <marco_brau at yahoo.com> Subject: hop shoots Two things: First, like Hans, I'm also considering growing hops and need to know how much heighth the hops need to grow. Can hops run also a fence (horizontal), or do they need to grow up? BTW, the small hop plants (shoots) can be tasty, but I've only had the pickled version. ===== ______________________________________________ Do you like beer? Have you thought of making your own? Check the Marcobrau Beer Pages - (http://marcobrau.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:57:07 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Partial Mashes > Mark Anderson said: >It came out at 1.052. I used an ounce of Cascade >for flavor and found it a bit much for my tastes. I was brewing an amber >and got an IPA. With one ounce of Cascade and an OG of 52? That's more an APA. And not all that hoppy an APA either. After drinking 5 gallons of it you may agree. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:57:08 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: First Partial Mash Steve Tighe asked: >Cascade whole hops (assume for now 5.75%) >1.25 oz 60 min >1 oz 20 min >1 oz at end of boil > .75 oz dry hop in secondary (probably in a mesh bag) >One question I have is on the flavor/aroma/dry hops. I >basically picked those amounts at random, and made it >all add up to 4 oz because that's the lot size my >local shop sells hops in. I don't *have* to use the >whole package; will this amount blow me away? I love >hops, but you can, too, have too much!! I'd like a >nice, full hoppy flavor and aroma without puckering! Are you familiar with Cascade? Do you like it? Your recipe isn't too bitter, but it will have a fair amount of Cascade flavor, sort of like a bit of grapefruit in your beer. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:57:09 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: RIMS Steven Parfitt said: >I plan on using a 4500W 230VAC unit at 115VAC for 1125W, with a >3500W 230VAC elelment as an option of 875W at 115VAC. I can always put a >bolcking diode series with the element to cut that in half, so I have >options for 1125, 875, 562.5, and 437.5 Watts, so Scorched wort shouldn't be >a problem. A single 4500 watt element and a 15 amp dimmer would be even more versatile. The element is resistive so any old dimmer would do. >Secondly, how to get to target temp? My temp feedback sensor is in the top >of the RIMS chamber. If I set the PID for my target temp, I'll never get >there, or will take forever. If the PID is trying to hold 153, and my mash >is at 135, the PID will turn on to heat wort returning to the tun to 153. As >the inlet temp drops, the PID will cut back on the heater drive and >asemtotically approach the target temp, but my delta T will drop. How do I >get there in a timely manner, unless I set my PID above the target temp, and >shut it off when I reach target? Move the sensor to just a little downstream of the heater and have the controller control the power to the element? - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 19:56:11 -0500 From: "Dave and Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com> Subject: Re: baby hops and hops sprouts Steamed hop sprouts are very good, sort of like asparagus, but pleasantly bitter. Get them before they get woody. They turn a very saturated green color. Yummmmm. Dave King (BIER) Return to table of contents
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