HOMEBREW Digest #3915 Mon 15 April 2002

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  2002 Bay Area Brew Off announcement ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Beer Style descriptions ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Pellet Makers..? ("Herb G.")
  Re: Classic Beer Styles books (Bill Wible)
  RE: why ask why ("Guy and Norine Gregory")
  Pre-boil to post-boil gravity conversion ("Fox, Daniel")
  An Interesting Phenomenon ("Dan Listermann")
  Second Season Hops ("William Steadman")
  BJCP guidelines ("Brian M Dotlich")
  Copper Kettles (Al Klein)
  More Nightmares For Steve ("Phil Yates")
  california common ("John Misrahi")
  UV light as a sanitizer ("Greenly, Jeff")

* * HOPS BOPS XIX Entry Deadline 4/17/2002 * Details: http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ * * 2002 Bay Area Brew Off entry deadline is 5/20/2002 * Details: http://www.draughtboard.org/babopage.htm * * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 22:33:15 -0700 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <bgros at aggienetwork.com> Subject: 2002 Bay Area Brew Off announcement Announcing the 15th annual National Bay Area Brew Off homebrew competition. This year held in conjunction with the Alameda County Fair. AHA Sanctioned. Details at http://www.draughtboard.org/babopage.htm Note that since we're working with the county fair, the entry process is a little different. * Entry fees and forms are due by May 20. * Actual bottles of beer are due by June 14th. Most AHA styles accepted. Entry fee $5/entry Open to ALL homebrewers in the US, Canada and beyond. Cash prizes and more. Judges and stewards can sign up on the web page as well. Hope to see you there. - Bryan Bryan Gros babo at draughtboard.org Oakland, CA Draught Board Homebrew Club http://www.draughtboard.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 22:44:48 -0700 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <bgros at aggienetwork.com> Subject: Beer Style descriptions Althelion at aol.com wrote: ><snip> I'm getting the impression that there is a widening gap between the >BJCP guidlines and the descriptions/recipes in the Classic Beer Style >books. Comments? Keep in mind that the BJCP style guidelines were written for a specific purpose. It was written for brewers and judges entering and judging in homebrew competitions. Styles were included at the time if the committee felt there was enough interest for brewers to brew and enter those styles (hence, no Scandinavian lager, etc). The descriptions were kept broad enough to allow for creativity and to take into account the biggest commercial examples, but the attempt was also to keep them narrow enough for judges to judge. The Classic Beer Style books were written with a different audience in mind. And also by one or two authors (rather than a committee of judges), so the descriptions in the books are more likely to reflect the opinions and biases of the author. They are often broad enough to include many commercial examples as well as historic examples. I don't know if this potential gap is widening. It is probably time for a new committee to take a look at the guidelines again, though. Feel free to get involved if you like. Bryan Gros babo at draughtboard.org Oakland, CA Draught Board Homebrew Club http://www.draughtboard.org Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 02:22:08 -0400 From: "Herb G." <G8810 at spamnot.com> Subject: Pellet Makers..? Does anyone out there know of a place that makes pellet dies, for making hops pellets? I was thinking of making my own pellets from fresh hops, something along the line of a pill press, or basically a piece of steel with a bore in it, to fill with fresh hops, & pound them in with a steel rod until compacted, then push them out the bottom of it via a swinging doortype contraption. Any help will be greatly appreciated. TIA, Herb G. - -- Everyone has to have something to believe in. I believe I'll have another beer. The Quest for a better beer continues. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:47:46 -0400 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Re: Classic Beer Styles books I also am a fan of these books. I have all of them, and will continue to buy them as they come out. They've done Pale Ale twice, because its the most common style brewed I suppose, but I'm not so sure that book needed to be redone. The new one doesn't read a heck of a lot different from the original. If they were going to re-do it, perhaps they could have redone it as 2 separate books, one for American Pale Ale and one for British or English Pale Ale. I was very happy when they published a Mild Ale book, and the fact that it as a separate book, not just a chapter in the Brown Ale book. I'd like to see books added to the series on the following: - Pre-Prohibition Lagers. I think there is enough data on this, and enough recent interest in this style to warrant its own book. - Scottish Ales (I think this one is either being worked on or may have been recently released. I don't have it if its available) - Mead (and all of its categories and subcategories, like cyser, melomel, etc.) - Fruit Beer - with a good section and lots of tips on the right way to brew with fruit. - Herb and spice beers - There are enough of these around now to put a good book together: Ginger Beer, Heather Ale, a good collection of spiced ales/Christmas Ale recipes, etc. In the same vein as this thread, I'd also like to see someone publish a new and up to date hops book. Many new varieties of hops have been introduced over the past 5 or 6 years alone, and there is little to no information on many of these in any books I can find. The main book I have - Using Hops by Mark Garetz - is so outdated now as to be almost useless. I also have Homebrewer's Garden, which isn't of much help, and Homegrown Hops which is about growing your own, but doesn't go into the new varieties, either. I feel there is a crying need for an up to date hops book. Anybody know of a good one I missed? Bill - -------------------------- Brew By You 3504 Cottman Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19149 215-335-BREW (PA) 215-335-0712 (Fax) www.brewbyyou.net - --------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:26:32 -0700 From: "Guy and Norine Gregory" <guyg at icehouse.net> Subject: RE: why ask why Greetings after a long absence. Yes, I still brew. I began brewing because I'm fundamentally cheap, but like quality. Then I brewed 'cause I loved the collision of science and art, and the corresponding removal of the evidence. Now I brew to relax, unwind, get some bloody time to myself, and because I love the smell of boiling hops. And I don't seem to get to brew much lately. But, I'm back in the saddle with a rye in the carboy and a couple of new ideas behind my eye. Cheers to all Guy Gregory Lightning Creek Home Brewery Spokane, WA 6087.2, 346 Rennerian according to the calculator, but frankly, I think that puts me in Kamchatka. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:31:29 -0700 From: "Fox, Daniel" <DFox at stmartin.edu> Subject: Pre-boil to post-boil gravity conversion Bob Shotola wrote: >In an unrelated story.... Saturday while listening to Car Talk I sparged grain with the magical creaking whirligig and then stirred up the 6 collected gallons and took a preboil hydrometer reading of 1045. I have an aversion to messing with cooled wort so I did not take another sample after boiling and cooling. I boiled off a gallon of water. What was the gravity of the subsequent five gallons of boiled wort? According to my points per pound and extraction rate I should have gotten a 1052 OG after the boil. Thanks. If there is a reliable conversion for finding OG from preboiled wort, I can shelve my wort thief. > This is a simple method I use, I don't recall where I got it but it seems to work well. Take your gravity, subtract one, and then multiply by 1000 (or use gravity in degrees Plato). Multiply this by your preboil volume in gallons to calculate your total "point-gallons". For a preboil gravity of 1.045 you would end up with 45*6 = 270 point-gallons. Divide this by your final volume to get your post-boil gravity. If you boiled down to 5 gallons, your gravity would be 270/5 = 54, or 1.054. Dan Fox Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:10:49 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: An Interesting Phenomenon I was discussing the progress of two meads I have fermenting in my shop with a customer. One was obviously still fermenting and the other was over with and settling out. I made mention of this to him. He rapped his fingernails against the carboy that was settling and said that it still had a while to go. I looked at him funny. Then he rapped his nails against the one that was still very active and there was a distinct difference in the sound. The actively fermenting carboy sounded very dull where the seemly finished carboy had more of a ring to it. I went to a very finished clear carboy of wine and rapped it. It rang like a bell. It seems that stuff (yeast and the like) in suspension greatly dampens the vibrations of carboys. My customer could judge the progress of a fermentation by the sound of his fingernails on the shoulder of a carboy. How useful this is to a sighted brewer or winemaker I don't know, but it would be really cool to show a blind person. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:08:44 -0500 From: "William Steadman" <mrwes at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Second Season Hops I have two Cascade hop plants now in their second growing season. With the recent warm weather here in the Chicacgoland area they both have about 12 bines sprouting up now. Since I only keep 2-3 bines for further growth, should I snip the excess bines now or wait? I've also read about some people sniping all of them in the early spring, as more will develop as spring progresses. Thanks, Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 11:13:31 -0500 From: "Brian M Dotlich" <BMDotlich at cs.com> Subject: BJCP guidelines Fred Scheer wrote in HBD #3914 "I personally think that the BJCP study guidelines have to be updated and other chapters have to be completely re-written." I personally think that BJCP guidelines have become far too narrow. I recently had a lager that I entered into a contest as a Municher Dunkel. It was panned by the judges because it had too much hop flavor and bitterness. All 4 judges said that it was an excellent beer that was not to style. I looked through the BJCP guidelines and could not find a style category that my lager would fit into. This is what really bugs me about homebrew contests. They are not about brewing good beer. They are essentially exercises in conformity. To me, beer should be judged on its own merits and not according to how well it conforms to some narrow and arbitrary definition Brian Dotlich Indianapolis IN Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 01:04:41 -0400 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Copper Kettles John Palmer said: >I am speculating that they are not pure copper, they are likely brass >(Cu/Zn) or bronze (Cu/Sn), but either would be fine. Take a close look at a timpani next time you see one. That color is copper. >You do >not, repeat do not, want to clean the copper shiny bright between uses. It >should turn a dull copper color with use. You want the passive oxide layer >to build up to minimize the dissolution of copper into the wort. What color are immersion coolers? Dull or shiny like a brand new penny? - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:11:01 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: More Nightmares For Steve I'm not in the business of unduly disturbing Steve Alexander's sleeping patterns, but I am prompted to ask a question. Steve showed considerable concern about the oxidation effects of mash shovelling. Here is another procedure of mine which Steve might like to comment on. I use a simple gravity system to send my sparge water down to the mash tun. To achieve this, I bucket (as opposed to shovel) water up to my hot liquor tun. There must be a lot of oxygenation going on as I pour buckets of water into the hot liquor tun. All these nasty bubbles of oxygen are free to run down into my mash tun and I cringe to think of the damage that must be going on in there. I use this procedure because my sparge vessel is not large enough to house all the water I require, and must be topped up during the lauter. This irresponsible act of mine, coupled with my mash shovelling, must make me the king of HSA. But despite this horrific abuse, I still seem to be able to produce good beer. What is going on Steve? I haven't slept a wink since you mentioned the evils of mash shovelling. Now I realise I am pumping oxygen into every aspect of the "hot side"of brewing but despite my best efforts, I can't seem to upset the final product. There must be something about all this obscene oxygenation which just isn't working for me. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 08:39:16 -0700 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: california common I am planning a batch of California Common. Can anyone give me guidelines for my recipe? Extract w. specialty grains, or Partial Mash (i can mash about 4-5 pounds of grain maximum at the moment). I will use WhiteLabs Sanfranciso Lager yeast. Do i still need to keep it cool, or is room temp (around 21Celcius/70Farenheit) ok? Is cooler still better ? I was thinking of using Northern Brewer (ive heard thats what Anchor Steam uses) or Pride of Ringwood (okay, so im not a big traditionalist when it comes to style). What do you guys think? thanks John Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:01:48 -0400 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: UV light as a sanitizer This is a question for the more scientifically minded amongst the Kolectiv. I recently read an article in one of my sustainable living magazines regarding water purifiers that are being produced in Europe that use strong UV light illuminating clear tubing coils through which aerated water is passed. The theory, according to the article, is that the O2 in the bubbles is changed in part to ozone, and that this effect, in conjunction with the sanitizing power of UV radiation, kills most of the bugs, etc. Now, my interest as a homebrewer is obvious. My question is probably also obvious. Is the theory behind this too bogus to be believed? I mean, on the face of it, to this liberal arts major it seems rather plausable, initially, but then I say to myself that there's got to be some flaw. What do you think, comrades? Jeff Mountain Home Brewing Morgantown, WV Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 04/15/02, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96