HOMEBREW Digest #3932 Sat 04 May 2002

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  How Hot to HERMS (Blue Nude Brewery)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  Re: Trub as Fertilizer? ("Larry Bristol")
  re:  HSA, MBO and maillard (Paul Kensler)
  Pinkus Alt ("Robin Griller")
  Removal of Hot/Cold breaks - beneficial? (Alan Meeker)
  Min. Brewery size? ("TED MAJOR")
  RE: Campden tablets and MBO (Brian Lundeen)
  oxidation reality check, cold trub removal and other interesting tales. ("Dr. Pivo")
  On the subject of Big Brew Cams... ("Drew Avis")
  HSA - I can't get enough of it! ("Doug Moyer")
  Homebrewing on NPR ("Paul Gatza")
  Re: Trub as Fertilizer? (susan woodall)
  Counter flow chiller adaptation ("email")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 23:13:57 -0600 From: Blue Nude Brewery <mash_tun at yahoo.com> Subject: How Hot to HERMS I have designed and am on the verge of starting to weld a HERMS set up. But is is different in one respect from most. The sparge/strike/infuse water tank is not the HE tank - they are seperate. My thought is that I can run the temp on the sparge/strike/infuse tank to where I need it and not worry about upsetting the equilibrium in the mash/HE loop. I was going to set a thermostat to ~200 (just below boiling at 6200') and then control the flow through the HE to maintain mash temp (will use infusion for most boosts). Here's the question. I figured that a RIMS really heats up the wort as it flows over the heater. But.... someone raised a concern about getting the mash water too hot and killing off the enzymes. I figured that the boost would be temporary - high through the HE, but then dropping quickly in the mash. So... just how hot can I get the mash liquid as it comes out of the HE without destroying the enzymes? In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria. - German Proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 00:37:29 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report "Siebel Week......" I am pleased to remind you that Siebel has granted a request to answer questions on-line from the HBD, officially commencing on May 13, and running through the 17th of May. In an effort to strengthen the bonds between the amateur and professional brewing communities, this event will be also promoted within the AHA and IBS. Attempting to absolutely pack these Fora with questions and response worthy of the one week available within Siebel's workload, questions shall be accepted for response effective May 10, 2002, and shall be rejected after midnight CST, May 17, 2002. Siebel has graciously allowed that follow-up may be required post the cut-off point, and they will deal with that on an as needed basis. Further, Siebel's participation will be augmented by contributions from Tobias Fischborn and Forbes Waldrop of Lallemand. With Lyn Kruger and her staff leading this effort, and special help from Lallemand, this should be an eventful and instructive week! The HBD will be the central avenue for this event, and those within these walls that aren't familiar with HBD can find out more about the HBD by visitng the www.hbd.org home page. The HBD is a wonderful arena for brewing discussion, from both amateurs and professionals, and those of you from the IBS and AHA that don't read it are encouraged to avail yourself of the talent that will be on-board during this "Siebel Week." Further details of and on participation in the session and brief bio's on the background of the principal experts will be provided shortly....but plan for this one! Maybe next year we can make it a fortnight! Lallemand Scholarship....... Lallemand is pleased to be the sponsor for the 3rd year of the Lallemand Scholarship, which awards an AHA member with the full cost of a two week Concise Course to the Siebel Institute, or a two week Microbiology Course, both valued at USD 2750, as well as a USD 1000 stipend to assist with travel and accomodations. Entries are open to all AHA members, who may submit an entry by e-mailing Gary Glass at gary at aob.org , with "Lallemand Scholarship" as the Subject, and your Name, Address, Phone Number, E-Mail Address, and Membership number in the Message. Mail entries may be sent to Gary Glass, AHA, 736 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO, 80302, with the same identifying information. AHA members that vote in the upcoming AHA BOA Elections will receive an automatic extra, or initial entry. Entries will be accepted up to June 15th via mail, e-mail....Entries will be accepted in person during the AHA NHC in Irving, Texas. The winner will be drawn during the NHC Banquet, June 22, 2002. Members of the AHA BOA, IBS BOA, staff of the AOB, Siebel, Lallemand are ineligible. Winners must provide a written report on their Siebel experiences to the AHA/AOB/Lallemand/Siebel. Rights to publication of report and photographs of the winner are granted to the AHA/AOB, Siebel and Lallemand. Past winners of the Lallemand Scholarship are Rich Sieben, Lallemand Scholarship 2000, whose report can be accessed at http://www.beertown.org/AHA/lallemand2.htm and Antoinette Hodges, Lallemand Scholarship 2001, http://www.beertown.org/AHA/lallemand_2001.htm whose report is somehow lost in the ethernet. Brewers who wish to join the AHA in order to get a shot at the best lottery odds a brewer will ever find, may join by going to https://www.beertown.org/membership/joinaha1.htm or calling 1-888-822-7262. Pretty good deal for 33 bucks!! Just be sure to tell the Membership Guy/Gal that you want an entry to the Scholarship when you call. As a past winner of a Siebel Scholarship myself, I can assure you that nothing comes closer to this brewers' hope to see "Beer Heaven," .......I am just delighted that Lallemand and Siebel are generous enough to make this opportunity available to others...and that the AHA is able to work with them to help make better brewers... Cheers! Jethro Gump Rob Moline Lallemand AHA BOA Court Avenue Brewing Company 515-282-2739 CABCO 515-450-0243 cell "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 07:52:57 -0500 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Trub as Fertilizer? On Fri, 3 May 2002 00:16:19 -0400, Steve C Cobble <stevecobble at juno.com> wrote: >Anyone with experience or suggestions relating to using trub or spent >grain, as fertilizer in the garden? Would I kill my tomatoes or give >them a boost? Or should I let them break down with the rest of my grass >clippings/mulch/organic waste pile till next year....Justa thought I have been dumping and spreading spent grain onto the ground in the "back 40" for about a year now, just to watch what happens. So far, all I have are patches of dried up spent grain, in which even weeds do not want to grow. Maybe the higher acid content is the culprit? [Or maybe its all that MBO material! <gasp>] My bet is that grain husks need to go into the compost bin to break down a bit (unless you actually want to put a herbicide on your tomatoes). Trub, OTOH, goes directly into my septic system and gives me one of the most biologically active systems in Austin County! The yeast is the active ingredient here. It used to be common practice for folks to add yeast to a septic system, but that practice seems to have faded, labeled as "old fashioned" with the advent of these new hi-tech septic systems. Apparently, the yeasties do not know this, so they go about their business anyway. I do not know what I would do with the trub if I did not have a septic system. It ought to make a good fertilizer right out of the tank, although I doubt the alcohol in it would be helpful. It is easy to get rid of that, of course, and then the only concern would be what it does to the acid levels in the soil. How about doing a test patch? Larry Bristol Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2] http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 06:02:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: re: HSA, MBO and maillard I've been following the thread on mash-boil oxidation lately, and noticed Steve Alexander's comment in HBD 3930: "Sulphites prevent the Maillard processes and phenolic oxidation that lead to wort darkening" Does this include the Maillard reactions that occur during a decoction mash? Like many brewers, I treat my tap water with a crushed campden tablet - now I'm wondering if my occasional decoction mashes have been a complete waste of time because the sulphites from the campden tablets have been preventing the very Maillard reactions brewers desire in decoction mashes... Cheers, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:04:41 -0400 From: "Robin Griller" <robin_g at ica.net> Subject: Pinkus Alt Hi all, Missed the question on Pinkus, but saw the follow up....there's a clone recipe for Pinkus Alt in Protz and Wheeler, Brew Classic European Beers at Home, a wonderful book. If I recall correctly, Pinkus Alt is pretty much NOTHING like the commonly known Altbier. As I recall (hope I'm not messing up!) it is a wheat beer with a slight lactic character from a lactic bacteria added in the secondary (it is left in the secondary for six months). If I'm misremembering, I'm doing it big time! A wonderful book, worth having.... Robin Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 10:07:07 -0400 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: Removal of Hot/Cold breaks - beneficial? The question as to the merits of trub/break removal has once again bobbed to the surface. Since the queue is pretty short just now I think I can get away with reposting a previous one dealing with this issue: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - (Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:11:56 -0500) Along the lines of the recent questions about early racking, etc. I went back and did a little digging into the question of whether or not it is beneficial to remove the hot and cold breaks. Here's a brief summary of what I found. This is by no means an exhaustive analysis! The papers cited below have pretty extensive reference sections if anyone wants to go further. In the Nov/Dec BT Ron Barchet had an article on Hot Trub. His conclusions were basically: 1) Hot break is mostly protein and eliminating this material takes out a lot of high molecular weight proteins which could later react with tannins to cause chill haze. 2) Total removal of the hot break material may negatively impact the beer's body and head-retention 3) (paraphrasing and condensing) "...effective removal is critical because it can smear the yeast cell walls impeding transport (of nutrients) leading to head-retention problems, poor stability, and harsh bitterness." Now to me these effects on the quality of the resultant beer don't seem to follow directly from "smearing" the yeast cell walls. However, in later references it is claimed that leaving a lot of break material around means that your yeast cake will become significantly contaminated with trub which can then be carried over into your next fermentation if you are re-pitching this yeast. This idea of trub carry over causing problems makes more sense to me as a potential cause of the quality deficits Barchet lists so maybe this is what he is referring to (?). 4) pH doesn't affect trub amount much unless it falls below 5.0 where break formation falls off sharply. The best sedimentation takes place at pH = 5.0 - 5.2 5) In the conclusion he states "Removing hot trub is essential to producing a quality beer." In the Mar/Apr BT Barchet wrote on Cold trub: 1) Opinions vary on how important it is to remove. 2) Studies have shown that total removal of all the cold break leads to decreased yeast growth and viability and increased levels of acetate esters. 3) Trub particles act as nucleation sites for dissolved CO2 and their absence leads to higher CO2 levels which, in turn, inhibit yeast growth and fermentation. 4) Removal of some of the break material has been shown to improve yeast viability, improve the quality of the finished beer, and be beneficial to the beer's stability. 5) In high gravity situations yeast may benefit from the presence of cold trub. 6) Most American brewers no longer remove cold trub. A research paper (kindly supplied by Steve Alexander) entitled "The Influence of Trub on Fermentation and Flavor Development" by Lentini, Takis, Hawthorne, and Kavanagh has some interesting results. They use "trub" to mean both hot and cold break material: 1) The presence of trub led to better fermentation performance but had detrimental effects on flavor, processing, and on the ability to get good yeast for repitching. 2) Their work as well as literature review point to three main causes of such effects -- the lipid content of the trub, the nucleation ability of trub particles, and the impact on zinc availability (zinc gets bound up by trub, especially the hot break material) 3) In test fermentations increasing the trub concentration caused decreases in volatile esters while it caused an increase in the production of higher ("fusel") alcohols. The ester effect is also dependent on the types of lipid present in the trub 4) The presence of trub and the lipid composition of the trub had big effects on the lipid profiles of the yeast. 5) In their summary they conclude: "While trub has some benefits in increasing fermentation activity, it does have a significant influence on flavor (i.e. decreased esters and increased fusel alcohols) To achieve the desired volatile ester profile of a specific beer type, it is necessary to have the correct balance between the amount of trub present in the wort and the level of wort oxygenation." And one more research paper (thanks again Steve!): "Wort Trub Content and its Effects on Fermentation and Beer Flavor" by Schisler, Ruocco, and Mabee. This paper makes pretty much the same points as the previous one plus: 1) In flavor analysis there is a preference for beers made from clarified wort. Though both beers were judged acceptable the less favored beer was faulted for "spoiled fruit and caramel characteristics" - the caramel seemed to be the deciding factor in the negative assessment. 2) Though there were differences in ester levels detectable by lab analyses (GC), no differences in the fruitiness of the beers was noted by the tasters so these differences were probably below threshold values. 3) While other sources seem concerned that the ability of trub to bind zinc will lower the availability of this essential yeast nutrient these authors propose that trub may actually act as a reserve depot for zinc that the yeast may use later in the fermentation. What's the take home message for us homebrewers? It looks like HOT BREAK material is potentially troublesome and removal of most of this material is probably a good idea although total removal may not be desirable. This is probably moot anyway since we really can't remove all of this at home unless you're using a kick-ass filtration system. I don't know for sure but it seems that most breweries do take steps to remove the hot break (by whirlpooling for example). Whether they do this for practical reasons like easier product handling (such as filtration) or for quality reasons (or both) I don't know. What about COLD BREAK? There are some conflicting results here but again, it looks like it is probably a good idea to remove most of the cold break material. This seems especially true if you are planning on repitching your yeast. The fact that most American breweries don't worry about cold break removal and the above research articles indicating that while there are flavor effects they are relatively small (though there are conflicting statements on this issue) seems to indicate that removal of the cold break shouldn't be a /huge/ concern (again unless you are planning on re-pitching the yeast). However, it seems to me that we have to factor in the fact that there are often major differences between what macro- and micro- breweries do and what we as homebrewers are capable of doing. I could certainly envision break material having a negative impact on my home brewed beer. We typically don't filter our beer and our bottling practices may introduce significant amounts of oxygen thus the stability of our beer may be compromised compared to a larger brewery. On the other hand, if we underpitch and/or poorly oxygenate our worts then the trub could serve as a supply of essential yeast lipids and sterols. Then there's the nucleation effect which could be important especially in high gravity worts so it is a bit complicated. My own comparisons using split batches with and without trub led me to believe that lots of trub carry-over can have negative impact on the taste and I suspect it was primarily oxidation of trub lipids though this is just a hunch. Certainly there are plenty of oxidizable ployphenols in the trub and these could also lead to bad flavors, astringencies and hazes. Overall, my practice is going to remain - remove most of both the hot and cold break. Pitch high, aerate well and avoid oxygen pick up as much as possible after fermentation gets going. Hope this was helpful -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 11:09:41 -0400 From: "TED MAJOR" <tidmarsh at charter.net> Subject: Min. Brewery size? Greetings Brew(st)ers! My wife and I are evaluating whether to move or remodel our current home. Obviously, brewing space plays a key role in the decision, and a remodeling job will require a brewery room. For those of you lucky enough to have a dedicated brewery, how big is it? How big should it be? What is the smallest usable brewery? I haven't decided whether to go natural gas or 220v electric yet, but I envision some kind of 3 tier set up, probably along the lines of www.morebeer.com's brewing sculptures, a refrigerator, mop sink, some counter & cabinet space, some open shelves, and perhaps a dishwasher. Judging by the size of our current kitchen, I'm thinking that a 10 ft x 10 ft room might work. Regards, Tidmarsh Major Birmingham, Ala. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:26:34 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Campden tablets and MBO Paul Mahoney writes: > I have been crushing .5 to 1 campden tablet and > adding it to my brewing water (8 gallons) the night > before a brew session. I do not know how many grams > this is (the tablet is approx. the size of an adult > aspirin), but it appears that this may be excessive, > based upon the posted comments. Actually, you are still falling well short of the levels being discussed. Campden tablets (which I loathe, do you enjoy crushing those silly things?) when fresh contain the SO2 producing equivalent of 0.44 grams of potassium metabisulfite (much of what is in the tablet is binder). This yields about 6 ppm of SO2 in your 8 gallons. You should be adding about 5 tablets (someone please check my arithmetic, it is early in the morning). My nemesis in matters Klein, decoction and now MBO (yes, MBO!), but whose opinions I greatly respect, Joel Plutchak writes: > Spot on. Tilting at little windmills is great for those > who want to build Quixotic legends around themselves, but > I don't know that it does a lot of good for many others. Joel, my legendary status here is already well established from my rapier-like wit and my unfailing ability to keep flogging a topic senseless into the ground long after the crowds have gone home. My motives in pursuing this can only be considered pure of heart. ;-) > Seems to me there's a nice way that already exists to > see how much effect HSA (sorry Brian, the new term hasn't > taken hold yet ;-) has on real life (home)brewing. One great > thing about George Fix was that he used his beers and an > existing blind evaluation process to gather data about them-- > the sanctioned homebrew competition. Take a look around at > the winners of homebrew competitions. Find out who uses mash > and boil floats, CO2 blankets, campden tablets in the > mash/boil, etc. See if it correlates with good scores in > competition. I'll volunteer my data to the cause. Scoring well in competitions requires skill in many facets of the brewing process, and I am under no delusion that the topic at hand will necessarily have as great an impact as royally mucking up the recipe formulation, mashing at the wrong temps, oversparging, underboiling, in short a host of faux pas that can have a major effect on the beer quality and/or style accuracy. This is more of a tweak of the fine tuning knob once you have the channel coming in reasonably well by hitting the TV a few times with a baseball bat. I expect your beers are better than mine for reasons that no amount of sulfiting on my part is going to overcome. I'm still working out the big bugs, but I don't see that preventing me from working out the little bugs at the same time. I would also suggest that if we are to use competition results in this debate, that we expand the discussion to include an analysis of the satisfaction level people have with the quality of judging. I don't think you can dispute that there are both good and poor judges active out there on the competition circuit. I have heard enough complaints about judges that I don't necessarily want the outcome of this debate to hang on their words. BTW, you might be amused to learn that after all my goings on about decoction mashing, I actually played around with it on my last brew, an Altbier. I don't think I did it right, I didn't get near the temperature jump I thought I would when I mixed back in, but it was kind of fun (once I put an oven mitt on my stirring hand). And when that decoction went sploop-sploop back into the main mash, I had nary a care in the world, because I knew those sulfites were protecting me from Mash/Boil Oxidation! ;-) OK, I'll shut up for a while now. I've already got Jeff's lawyers tracking me down, I don't want to annoy too many people. Cheers, Brian Lundeen Brewing at... Um, Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan which is nowhere near Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 17:41:56 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: oxidation reality check, cold trub removal and other interesting tales. Whew! This is really a hard one to get a handle on because it just keeps shifting around! Just read this!!!!!! > Bamforth estimates non-enzymatic > processes could consume 100ppm of O2 per second (given oxygen) !! It's > higher yet in the boil (near 1000ppm/sec). Wort has near zero dissolved > oxygen as oxidation uses it instantly. More O2 infuses from air by Henry's > Law. 'Course any splashing, stirring or air exposure adds in. One study > (need more) measures 2/3rd of the O2 uptake occurs during the boil ! > It's that bloody boil destroying the Royal Knights of Insomnia's beer... no wonder they're teed off! I've always known that boiling part was a big problem, and I think we should all stop doing it immediately! Without digressing into a discussion with chemical terms, and forcing everyone to belch these terms through the Nernst equation.... I'll give you all a little logic pellet to ingest- A brewery called Anheuser Busch makes a beer they call "Budweiser". It is sold pretty much all over the world. I've tasted it in St. Louis (where it originates) I've tasted the lisenced product by Guinness in Ireland. I've tasted it hawked at such bizarre places as Casa Blanca (or bazaar places, if you will). ......and it always tastes the same. Think what you may of the product itself as a representative of beer..... but they just must be the world champions of shelf life! You can't hurt the stuff! You can heat it, shake it, let it sit around nearly forever.... and when you open it, it is the same insip........ OOOPS! (almost opinionated there) drink as it always is. Now, let's look at that in light of the fact that they PURPOSELY bubble air through the column of hot wort! String-a-dookies- numbered- on-a stick!!! That stuff should be stale before they ever get it in the can!!!.... ... er, that is, if the the theoretical argument about it was any more trustworthy than a Boston priest in a Nursery School. Brian Lundeen asks, regarding this very subject: > If I blast the kettle headspace with a blanket of CO2, would the turbulence > created by the boil not simply cause this to be displaced or mixed with air > from outside the kettle for the majority of the boil? > Brian, I see only ONE solution to this problem , and that is the one I use- I wear a G- suit in the brewery at all times (made mine out of sandwich wrap and aluminium foil). A cornelius keg and a bicycle pump make a dandy air supply into the suit. The exhaust then (my expelled air) is fed through an old vacuum cleaner hose straight into a valve at the top of my hermetically sealed boiler. You see the brilliance of it? I use my own body as an oxygen stripper, and my exhaled CO2 as a "boiler blanket". Naturally, I have a microbe filter in the hose into the tank, as you can never tell where those Clostridia spores may be hiding...... and I have a suspicion that I have a rather large colony of those pesky things in my lungs. It may SOUND like it's coming from the other end, but I think a bit of "gas gangrene" in my lungs could be the most plausible explanation for that peculiar odour that seems to follow me about, and why I always seem to have plenty of elbow room at public gatherings. So, Brian. Anything short of the above suggestion, and I think you are really putting yourself at risk in terms of both oxidation and infection.... especially if you are trying to make "Zima", like me. A question was raised about cold trub removal. There's a little 'spurment on the subject at: http://www.bodensatz.com/homebrew/columns/jirvine/trub.html In brief, you can find this out easily to your own satisfaction. Simply collect your wort (either "au natural" or using a counterflow chiller.... an immersion might leave too much of the coldies clinging to the hop "spotie" (A term which unfortunately was initiated into the brewing vernacular after Bamforth's publication)) Let this sit over night (perhaps even shorter... it's just always been practical that way for me), and you'll find the cold trub flocculates quite nicely to the bottom. Now, carefully siphon off the top half of wort to another fermenter... oxygenate each how you please together with equal doses of yeast. When you've got finished "beer" you have one that's virtually trub free, and one with about twice the usual dose. Taste at different ages, and decide yourself. Still better invite some beer loving people over and let them "blind taste". Better still set up a "triangle test" and count some numbers and save the comments of the correct ones. It has been suggested to store at 40C in order to expedite ageing. Now there's a unit I can finally get my hands around! I'm not bragging. I was speaking about the temperature MEASUREMENT unit. This strikes me as a particularly bad suggestion. Unless you first want to do a triangle test with your beer, regarding IF keeping your beer at above body temperatures exactly matches (or even at all approximates) cellar ageing with your beer.... with mine I'm sure it doesn't.... I wouldn't go throwing an untested variable in there (where do these ideas come from?)... I'd just use a bit of patience instead, and let the two beers age in the manner you usually age your beers (it is the effect on the manner that YOU make beer that you are after.) Patience is, after all, one of your most valuable assets as a brewer. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 11:46:53 -0400 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: On the subject of Big Brew Cams... If you're looking to join a Big Brew session on the web, be sure to check out Ottawa's own Big StrangeBrew. Alan McKay is hosting the event in his back yard, and the web cams will be on his site (http://www.bodensatz.com) - look for the link to "Big StrangeBrew" and start clicking. I can't promise cameos, or even a musical interlude (although on the off chance Brian Lundeen makes the trip from Winterpeg, we may re-enact some Kids in the Hall and Monty Python). We're starting earlier than most - 9am EST, but it will be a long day, I'm sure. Cheers! Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 12:04:35 -0400 From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com> Subject: HSA - I can't get enough of it! Some brewers avoid HSA like a plague. Others are actually proud of it! Take a look at this: http://hbd.org/starcity/pics/HSA.jpg I admit, I actually paid good money for an HSA beer... Brew on! Doug Moyer Salem, VA Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'" ~ Dave Barry Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:51:25 -0600 From: "Paul Gatza" <paul at aob.org> Subject: Homebrewing on NPR Hi everyone. Rich Doyle from Harpoon Brewery and I did a one-hour interview on homebrewing in preparation for National Homebrew Day and the AHA Big Brew that was broadcast on the National Public Radio show Connections. It should be accessible through the following link. http://www.theconnection.org/shows/2002/05/20020503_b_main.asp Enjoy homebrew day everyone. The Association of Brewers staff heads up to the hills to Big Brew at the home of Gary Glass to brew and toast at noon central. Paul Gatza Director--American Homebrewers Association Director--Institute for Brewing Studies Association of Brewers 736 Pearl St., Boulder, CO, USA 80302 +1.303.447.0816 ext. 122 mailto:paul at aob.org www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 15:32:42 -0700 From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com> Subject: Re: Trub as Fertilizer? I give the spent grain to my kid's rabbits and they love it. I throw yeast and trub in my hop garden with no obvious effects! Steve wrote: Anyone with experience or suggestions relating to using trub or spent grain, as fertilizer in the garden? Would I kill my tomatoes or give them a boost? Or should I let them break down with the rest of my grass clippings/mulch/organic waste pile till next year....Justa thought Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 14:34:34 -1000 From: "email" <thx1386 at yahoo.com> Subject: Counter flow chiller adaptation To the beer collective, Okay, here's my idea. I'm going to a picnic or to a friends house. I take my counterflow chiller, a waterpump and an old cooler. I put some ice and some water in the cooler and use the pump to cycle the ice water through the chiller jacket. I run my room temperature keg beer through the counterflow and dispense out of a picnic tap on the discharge end. Anyone tried this? Anyone think this might not work, have an improvement or is there some snag I haven't thought of? Or how about if I just fill the chiller jacket with water and immerse it in the cooler of ice water without using the pump. Will the cooling be enough for it to work like a jockey box? I'm trying to use the equipment I already have around rather than build a separate jockey box and I don't have room in the frig to chill the corny in case its not finished up. Thanks for the input. GP Kea 4493.61, 251.80 estimated Rennerian Return to table of contents
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