HOMEBREW Digest #3958 Sat 08 June 2002

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  Siebel Response-Last One-Yeast Intro-Tobias/Forbes ("Rob Moline")
  RE:Cheap but good pH meter? ("Parker Dutro")
  Re: pump speed/mag drive ("the freeman's")
  re:Mini Kegs ("Jim Yeagley")
  Methanol: why am I not worried? ("Groenigen,  J.W. van")
  Chinese wok burners (David Harsh)
  Re: Basic questions from a newbie (Kelly Grigg)
  widget (Alan Meeker)
  Minikegs ("Dan Listermann")
  hefeweissen (Alan Meeker)
  Re: Saccharification: 1 step or 2? (Jeff Renner)
  Where to find good brew in Dallas/Plano area? ("Tray Bourgoyne")
  Drinking in San Diego (Roger & Roxy Whyman)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 00:17:41 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Siebel Response-Last One-Yeast Intro-Tobias/Forbes From: "Mike Kilian" Subject: Seibel Week I there a preferred method for introducing yeast into the cooled wort? Is it preferable to pitch the whole mass into the fermentor or introduce it slowly inline? If it is introduced inline, would the process work better closer or further downline from the fermentor? Thanks for this great opportunity! Mike Kilian Forbes: I think anything that avoids over-stressing the yeast is probably best. When we do lager fermentations we normally pitch the yeast into room temp wort then start cooling the wort to 10C. This allows a better attemperation of the yeast/wort rather than throwing it in at 10C and let it get on with it. I have no real data to back up the off flavour part but lag phase is normally shorter when the yeast/wort is cooled together rather than yeast pitched into cool wort. If the wort is already cooled then slowly inline might be a good alternative. Under good conditions we have removed some of the cool wort and added it slowly to the yeast before then pitching the yeast into the wort. Of course if your yeast is coming from the fridge then introducing it to the cold wort should be much simpler. Tobias: In addition to Forbes........ In my opinion the best way to pitch lager yeast is to pitch at cold temperatures. That means the yeast should be adapted to cold temperatures previous to pitching to avoid stress. The temperature difference should be not greater than 10C. In the ideal case the yeast has the same temperature as the wort. If you are using crop yeast, it is already refrigerated during storage or if you repitch direct the yeast is at fermentation/lagering temperature. If you propagate your own yeast, it would be best to cool the yeast down to fermentation temperature one day before pitching. Dry Yeast is an exception. It is recommended to rehydrate the yeast at higher temperatures and pitch it soon after rehydration. So in this case the yeast has to be used at higher temperatures. The first option is to pitch the yeast into the wort and cool both down to fermentation temperature. This has to be done carefully and gradually to avoid to stress/shock the yeast. This might not always be possible depending on your cooling equipment. The second option is to use wort already at fermentation temperature to gradually cool down the yeast. This should be done in steps no greater than 10C. The advantage of pitching cold is that it is easier to handle and less risky. A good lager yeast pitched at cold temperature should start fermenting after 12-18 hours. If you cool your yeast with the wort there is a chance that you do it too fast, which results in long lag-phase, or you do it too slow, which can result in undesirable flavours. When to start cooling, if you pitch at high temperatures? As soon as possible but gradually. To introduce the yeast slowly inline is resulting in a better mixing of wort and yeast than just dumping the yeast into the fermenter. A common practice with fermenters that hold more than one brew is to introduce the whole amount of yeast inline with the first brew and than add the following brews (drauflassen). The inline introduction of the yeast can be done close to the fermenter. Sorry for the tardiness of this reply it may have been appeared partially in one of the other responses but perhaps not clearly. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 23:56:21 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: RE:Cheap but good pH meter? Mike, Good call on the need for pH consistancy. I just made the same decision to purchase test strips and incorporate pH monitering into my process. A lot of guys told me not to worry about my pH, that the water in my area was probably fine. Well, my beers are good but I can't justify ignoring the issue on the supposition of other brewers. And yes, I also found the only consistent meters to be far out of my hobby-budget. Hope you and I both experience positive results, getting smrater in the meantime! Cheers, Parker Dutro P-town OR Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 07:05:40 -0500 From: "the freeman's" <potsus at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: pump speed/mag drive Controlling the pump speed of a mag drive is not the way to go, IMHO. These pumps should run at the maximum rpm they are designed for at all times. Flow control should be undertaken by throttling the OUTPUT side of the pump with a valve. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat K P Brewery - home of "the perfesser" Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 07:58:49 -0400 From: "Jim Yeagley" <jyeag at core.com> Subject: re:Mini Kegs Hi Bill (and group) New poster here. I have a set of the mini-kegs, but only used them until the included cartridges were used up. They tended to empty a cartridge in 1 or 2 days of sitting in the fridge, which was a pain since you can't just run out to Kmart to pick up another box of the 12 grammers. Leaky once they're tapped, first complaint. Filling them is MUCH easier than bottling, hands down. Getting the #$&*%$ bungs in took all my weight, and some well-placed cursing. Second complaint. I now have a corny setup and couldn't be happier. Jim Yeagley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 15:23:20 +0200 From: "Groenigen, J.W. van" <J.W.vanGroenigen at Alterra.wag-ur.nl> Subject: Methanol: why am I not worried? Hi all, a friend of mine asked me recently if I wasn't worried about methanol in my home-brewed beer. Actually, I was not, for the intellectually very unsatisfying reason that I was never warned by either the brewing literature or on-line homebrew forums. I know that methanol is poisonous, and I have been warned never to drink local homebrewed stuff in developing countries where I worked, since people there sometimes actually get blind by methanol. I think this was not because they added methanol, but because it was produced during the fermentation process. So why isn't this a problem with our homebrewed beer? Marc Sedam suggested that wild yeasts and high fermentation temps might be to blame, but why aren't our Belgian friends all blind then? Thanks for any light on this subject! Jan Willem van Groenigen Wageningen, the Netherlands, some 150 km north of the REAL center of the brewing universe: Brasserie D'Achouffe in the Ardennes. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 09:33:38 -0400 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Chinese wok burners B Morey <bernardmorey at optushome.com.au> asks: > I notice Chinese supermarkets sell a variety of LPG burners for > barbeque gas -- they're quite cheap and some are quite hefty (double > or triple circle of flame). They're intended for larger scale rice > cooking or woks. Why not consider one of those? I have a friend that brews over wok burners at his family's chinese restaurant. They do a great job. While relatively cheap, he told me that they are rather brittle and don't last forever - the ones at the restaurant need to be replaced about once a year, but that's with a lot more use than we would probably put it through. I just noticed the ".au" in your e-mail address - I'm assuming that barbecue gas is methane and not propane... If its propane, I have no standing to address the burners and their utility. Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH P.S. Is Beer and Sweat on your calendar? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 08:51:48 -0500 From: Kelly Grigg <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie I'll second this suggestion. Down here in New Orleans, we tend to boil a lot of crawfish and crabs...and use the large propane burners for this. So, we also use them for our large batches of beer...works like a charm, fast, and cheap... My $0.02, Kelly On Fri, Jun 07, 2002 at 12:14:24AM -0400, after pounding the keys randomly, B Morey came up with.... > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:33:15 +1000 > From: "B Morey" <bernardmorey at optushome.com.au> > Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie <snip> > > I notice Chinese supermarkets sell a variety of LPG burners for > barbeque gas -- they're quite cheap and some are quite hefty (double > or triple circle of flame). They're intended for larger scale rice > cooking or woks. Why not consider one of those? > > - ------------------ Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak. - ------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 09:57:14 -0400 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: widget Jake Isaacs relays a nice description of the Guinness widget: "...This system comes to an equilibruim, until the cap is popped. Now, the nitrogen, which is at high pressure, comes gushing out since it is exposed to atmospheric pressure. This results in a cascade effect in the bottle." Sounds good, but then: "Everytime the bottle is lifted to the consumer's mouth (i.e. inverted), residual N2 in the widget is released through the tiny hole in the bottom, resulting in the fresh draught mouthfeel." Hmmm, what's keeping this "residual nitrogen" in the widget. Why didn't it come out with the rest when the cap was popped and the pressure relieved? -Alan Meeker Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 10:25:11 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Minikegs Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> asks about minikegs. I make the Philtap. <I like to do English pale ales, IPA's and Mild <Ales. These seem ideal for these styles if <done correctly. And they fit in a regular <fridge. Just my style! <What is the correct amount of priming for these? I prime with 1.5 tbs of corn sugar per keg right down the hole at filling. There is no real need to boil the sugar for these kegs. The sugar should be clean and each keg is getting a controlled amount of sugar. <How easily do they bulge or get damaged by <over-carbonation? That seems to be the number one <complaint I've seen. <I also picked up 4 of the Phil's Relief Bungs for <these. Anybody used these, had any luck? Your "Phil's Relieph Bungs" will totally prevent the kegs from bulging. They are designed to vent at about 30 psi and bleed off to about 20 psi. It takes about 60 psi to bulge a keg. <Do these take in air once tapped, or is the air <totally replaced by the CO2 cartridge? The only air exposure that may be seen is the air that is trapped inside the dip tube. This is minimal and does not seem to effect the flavor. <How long can an untapped 5 liter minikeg be stored, <refrigerated or otherwise? They can be stored as long as any bottle conditioned beer can. < How long is a 5 liter mini keg good once tapped? I have had minikegs tapped for months on end with no noticeable problems. As an interesting aside, I have been using the Philtap on three liter pop bottles and round one gallon juice jugs a bit lately. All that is needed to use the tap is to drill a 7/8" hole in the caps with a spade bit or hole saw and install a minikeg bung. They work just like minikegs. I prime the three liters with one Tbs of corn sugar and 1.5 for the gallon jugs. The gallon jugs need extra sugar to allow for vertical expansion due to pressure build up. I buy the three liters full of pop for a buck and the gallon juice jugs with orange drink cost less than $2. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 10:26:00 -0400 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: hefeweissen Tom asks about remaning viable yeast for priming his batch that got a tad bit warm during fermentation: Tom, you will probably have plenty of viable yeast still in suspension for bottle conditioning/carbonation. While 85 degrees is pretty high, it probably didn't result in too much yeast killing, unless these temperatures persisted for several days, or you were much warmer than this. Even then, I'd expect plenty of live yeast left for bottling purposes. Remember, the /optimal/ growth temperature for typical S. cerevisiae ale strains is around 30 deg C (86 deg F). Most brewers shun such high temperatures, however, as the changes in yeast physiology in this range results in the formation of higher levels of esters and fusel alcohols. There are exceptions to this, notably many Belgian yeasts are often run at elevated temperatures because these flavor elements are usually desirable in Belgian beers. Likewise, elevated temps are also often employed in brewing the Bavarian Weiss style to encourage the formation of the esters that in large part, define this beer's flavor profile. One caveat is that elevated temperatures aggravate the toxic effects of ethanol, thus, for high (>1.060) or very high (>1.080) gravity beer it is possible that you could get higher than anticipated levels of cell killing. All in all, I'd say you're good to go. If you can easily generate a small yeast starter for use as addition for bottling yeast this wouldn't hurt anything either. Hope this was helpful Alan Meeker Lazy Eight Nanobrewery "Where the possibilities are infinite" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 08:35:04 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Saccharification: 1 step or 2? "Paul Stutzman" <Paul.Stutzman at airborne.com> writes: >I've noticed that some brewers use 2 rests in the Saccharification >range - one rest in the mid to high 140's (F), and another in the >high 150's. Most recently I read about this technique when >brewing a CAP. Is this method only used when cereal is added to >the mash? Is there any benefit to employing a similar mash >schedule when brewing all malt beers? Here's a quick answer. More details available if wanted. A mid 140's F rest seems to produce maximum fermentables, which makes a good, crisp, dry lager (IMO), and the upper 150's rest finishes up the conversion and, according to the late George Fix (I'm sure he'd have hated to think of himself as being referred to as such) enhances foam stand as well (check the archives). It is my SOP with both CAPs and all-malt lagers of all sorts. I like 75-80% apparent attenuation, especially in a CAP. But it also works well in maltier brews such as Vienna and Dunkel. I believe that this is more or less what Anheuser-Busch uses. At least, that's what I took away from the MCAB-2 tour of their pilot brewery. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 09:49:42 -0500 From: "Tray Bourgoyne" <tray at netdoor.com> Subject: Where to find good brew in Dallas/Plano area? Hello all, I will be working in the Plano, Tx area for the next 6-8 weeks. Where can I find good brew? Thanks! Tray Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 12:24:29 -0600 From: Roger & Roxy Whyman <rwhyman at mho.com> Subject: Drinking in San Diego Hello all, I'll be going to San Diego June 20 - 23rd. What are the can't miss brew pubs and/or tap houses. Maybe a home brewing event? Thanks, Roger Whyman Parker, CO Return to table of contents
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