HOMEBREW Digest #3976 Sat 29 June 2002

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  Beer and mosquito attraction (ensmingr)
  Re: MB RIMS chamber (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: MB RIMS chamber (Dion Hollenbeck)
  RE:  Poor efficiency and strange taste ("Parker Dutro")
  A correction to a RE: Watery beer-post ("Parker Dutro")
  Re: pump recommendations (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  boil time and wort composition (Paul Kensler)
  US Electrical System - 240V ("David Mackaway")
  march pumps ("the freeman's")
  Homebrew in Germany (Alan McKay)
  Re: Isomerized hop extract ("Doug Hurst")
  Boddingtons (gremake)
  March pumps ("Strom C. Thacker")
  Chilled regulator and secondary cornies ("Peter Fantasia")
  Re: Isomerized hop extract (Jeff Renner)
  Introduction...  (w/ Questions) ("Bill Lucas")
  taste...watery... (Kent Fletcher)
  Sg Readings and Alcohol content ("Pete Calinski")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 00:25:49 -0400 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: Beer and mosquito attraction >From PubMed/MedLine, an interesting topic for this time of year ... Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY http://hbd.org/ensmingr - ----- J Am Mosq Control Assoc 2002 Jun;18(2):91-6 Alcohol ingestion stimulates mosquito attraction. Shirai O, Tsuda T, Kitagawa S, Naitoh K, Seki T, Kamimura K, Morohashi M. Department of Biodefence Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, Toyama Medical and Pharmaceutical University, Sugitani, Japan. Mosquito bites should be avoided because of the risk of contracting parasitic and viral diseases such as malaria, dengue fever, and several encephalitides. Although humans have been said to suffer more mosquito bites after ingesting liquor, little is known about whether that is true. Thirteen volunteers (12 men from 20 to 58 years old and a 24-year-old woman) were chosen as test hosts and a 30-year-old man was established as a control. We measured ethanol content in sweat, sweat production, and skin temperature before and after ingestion of 350 ml of beer (ethanol concentration 5.5%) by volunteers and compared them with a control subject. Our study demonstrated that percent mosquito landing on volunteers significantly increased after beer ingestion compared with before ingestion, showing clearly that drinking alcohol stimulates mosquito attraction. However, ethanol content in sweat and skin temperature did not show any correlation between alcohol ingestion and mosquito landings. This study shows that persons drinking alcohol should be careful about their increased risk to mosquito bites and therefore exposure to mosquito-borne diseases. - ----- Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Jun 2002 21:31:43 -0700 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: MB RIMS chamber >> Paul Kensler writes: PK> I'm familiar with the Moving Brews RIMS chamber - its PK> an impressive all-SS monster and "one of these days" PK> I'll get around to finishing my RIMS system so I can PK> use it... PK> But I know for a fact that one of the pieces - the end PK> fitting where the heating element screws in - is a PK> custom machined piece that Bill Stewart of Moving PK> Brews had re-threaded for this purpose. Apparently PK> heating elements are not standard pipe thread. This does not need to be the case. The heater elements are threaded 1" by 11 threads per inch, straight pipe thread. The 1" pipe fitting is 1" by 11 tpi *tapered* pipe thread. They fit quite nicely, however, you have to cherry pick them WITH YOUR HEATER IN HAND! The tapered pipe threads will fit just fine around the straight threads, but when you screw it in sufficiently enough, the tapered threads will "bottom out" on the straight threads and you will not be able to turn it in any further. It is very important that when you screw your heater in, that the rubber gasket gets squashed BEFORE the threads bottom out. You should be able to do this by hand. No need for a custom fitting, although I have to admit that the first one I made was with a fitting I hand threaded on a lathe with straight threads. Then I found that some fittings had enough tolerance to fit. And as far as the size goes, my heater chamber is 1 1/2" diameter. Just built a new one that holds two 6500 watt heaters. Go with the stainless, it is worth it. Will only cost about $100 if you just buy the parts. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Jun 2002 21:36:46 -0700 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: MB RIMS chamber >> Kent Fletcher writes: KF> pressure application of a RIMS chamber, you can use a KF> 1" NPT female fitting mated to the NPS element using KF> appropriate sealant with no problems. I have, and I've KF> seen many others on the web with similar construction. What I have found is good is three or four wraps of teflon tape with a very slight coating of food grade aquarium approved silicone seal. Keep it back from the end of the threads, you only want enough to seal the very tiny gap of the last 2 or three threads down in the fitting. BTW, I have some good pictures of one of these at my web site below. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 01:32:07 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: RE: Poor efficiency and strange taste Yves, The move to all-grain presents a heap of new concerns and procedures, as well as produces superior beer. To improve efficiency, look at grain crush and sparge temp. Also, sometimes the configuration of the mash-tun causes drainage problems. But start by assessing the crushing of your grain. Do you do it yourself or does your brew shop do it? You want the husks to be whole and the grain to be exposed. Too fine will cause stuck sparges and not cracked enough will reduce efficiency. Did you do a iodine test for starch conversion? Take a couple drops off the top of the mash and put on a whit plate. Drop a little iodine in the middle of the puddle and see if it changes color. If it stays red your good to go, but if it turns black or purple, there is still starch yet converted. When sparging you want to drain slowly, about a quart a minute or slower. The sparge should closely match the drain speed, and be lightly and evenly sprinkled over the top, keeping an inch or so of water above the grain bed top. The sparge water should be at least 170 deg. I usually hold mine in the cooler at 190 because by the time it gets to the mash-tun it will have dropped through the air and cooled quite a bit. The hotter the sparge water, the better your sugar extraction will be. But water that's too hot will contribute in leaching out tannins, which lend a harsh flavor to the final product. And about your "funny" flavor during fermentation: This is quite normal. In fact, some beers taste downright awful until they have been in the bottle for months. It's referred to as "green" beer because it's not ripe or something. There is a lot the yeast will do before the beer is quality, and even after the yeast have had their way, the flavors still need to sit and mellow, and the hop flavors will round a bit while the malt becomes more pronounced. So it's ok to taste your beer during fermentation (I would wait until racking to secondary) but it's not any indication of what the final product will be. Keep brewing; it gets way more fun with all grain! Parker Dutro, Portland, Oregon Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 01:43:56 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: A correction to a RE: Watery beer-post Nicholas, I mentioned in my reply that I used anywhere from 3 to 6 pounds of specialty grain for extract brewing. This is pretty inaccurate. I am not sure how I decided on those numbers; I guess I had had a couple homebrews. 1 to 3 pounds is more realistic. Depending on the style you could easily use more, but in many pale ales and session beers, 3 pounds is about as much as you'll need. Cheers! PD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:16:25 -0400 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: Re: pump recommendations In HBD #3973 Ken Wagner from Columbus, OH asked about sources other than Moving Brews for a high temp pump. Then in HBD #3974 Jeff McNally said, "I can't seem to locate a web page for March". The March Pump web site is: http://www.marchpump.com. They list all of the distributors in North America with phone numbers. Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, MI (2.8,103.6 Rennerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 06:40:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: boil time and wort composition Someone recently told me that boiling for 90 minutes vs. boiling for 60 minutes would make for a less fermentable, fuller-bodied beer. This just doesn't sit right - anyone have comments to support or dispute that claim? I can see things like possibly increased color or wort darkening, and obviously the lenght of time hops are boiled will affect their contributions - but body and fermentability? So if you have two identical worts with the same pre-boil gravity, the one boiled for 90 minutes will have a higher post-boil gravity due to increased evaporation and concentration - but lets say you add water to account for the increased evaporation so that the two worts once again have the same gravity (this time post-boil). Will the 90 minute boil wort be significantly differant than the 60 minute boil wort, as far as fermentability, body, mouthfeel, flavor...? Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 23:54:28 +1000 From: "David Mackaway" <mackawad at ozemail.com.au> Subject: US Electrical System - 240V I'm in the process of moving from Australia to the US (Chicago) and currently have a RIMS system running on 240V (which is the standard voltage hear in OZ).My RIMS is a soft heat exchange system that has 2 x 2300 Watt electrical heating elements (one in my HLT and one in the exchanger) plus a 240V pump.Can anyone explain to me the electricity setup in the US. I know that the standard outlet in a house is 120V but have seen people talk about running 240V systems and also talk about dryer outlets at 240V. I would be greatful for any insight. A confused Aussie Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 09:22:29 -0500 From: "the freeman's" <potsus at bellsouth.net> Subject: march pumps Try McMaster Carr at http://www.mcmaster.com/. Look under circulating pumps. Their part number 4161K21 is a March 809 series with bronze pump casing and mag drive. I use 2 of these on "the perfesser". Get the 1/25th hp version 'cause the 1/10th hp is wussy. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat K P brewery - home of "the perfesser" Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:36:11 -0400 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: Homebrew in Germany Andrew Nix asks about brewing beer in Germany. Definitely take the advice already given and be sure to declare the beer you brew. And make sure you know what the limits are beyond which you will be taxed. There is a German HBD which you can find off Hubert's excellent site at : http://www.netbeer.co.at/beer/ The website has an English mirror, though the HBF itself (the mailing list) is usually all German. You can also check out http://www.bier-selbstgebraut.de/ cheers, -Alan p.s. Do let us know if you find out what makes Karl so peaceful ;-) - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 09:42:35 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re: Isomerized hop extract Mr. 0,0 writes: "Anyway, I have over the years made a hop tea with some success, but the last time this happened, I tried to find some isomerized hop extract to doctor it up with no luck. This time, however, Jason at Adventures in Homebrewing in Dearborn, MI http://www.homebrewing.org/ came to the rescue. He didn't stock it, but he happened to have an unused little vial (1/2" x 1.75") of the stuff as a sample from a distributor. He dropped it in the mail and I tried it today. It worked great." A while back I attempted to make an IPA complete with dry hopping and oak chips in the secondary. It had a great hop flavor, aroma and strange oakiness, which might have been interesting if the beer had lasted long enough to age a little. Problem was that I somehow didn't add enough bittering hops. I think it was due to some confusion on my part regarding FWH. Anyway, I needed to up the bitterness. This beer was destined for a party and I needed a quick and accurate solution, so I started searching for an isomerized hop extract. I found it at Hop Tech http://www.hoptech.com . They call it Iso-Alpha Acid Extract. It came with a nice instruction sheet detailing how to determine the number of IBUs you're adding to a given volume. I wouldn't say this stuff is a substitute for the real thing but it's good in a pinch. To my mind (palate) the bitterness wasn't so clean. There was a sort of soapy character to it. Some of this perception may have been due to the interaction of the extract with the oak and dry hops, but there was more than just bitterness in the adulterated sample when compared to a non-adulterated sample. It did, however, help make my beer a little better. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 09:53:14 -0500 From: gremake at gsb.uchicago.edu Subject: Boddingtons Hello all, Boddingtons Pub Draught is one of the few beers my wife really enjoys, so I'd like to try brewing a batch for her. A Wheeler & Protz resource suggests 95% pale, 2% black patent and 3% cane sugar. A search of the HBD archives yielded only a reference to a recipe in a Zymurgy article. I'm wondering if anyone can provide the Zymurgy recipe, or better yet, if anyone has brewed a successful version and can provide some guidance. I know I can't duplicate the widget foam stand, but maybe the proper ingredients and Jeff's beer syringe will yield acceptable results. Cheers, Greg Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:54:41 -0400 From: "Strom C. Thacker" <sthacker at bu.edu> Subject: March pumps I found that US Plastics (NAJSCYYY) had good prices on March pumps when I bought mine a few years ago. A search for "march pump" at http://www.usplastic.com/ brings up several. I have one of the MDX models and have been quite happy with it. They range from $104 to $110. I *think,* but am not sure, that the March pumps may be more suited to food applications than the Little Giant or Teel pumps, at least in terms of what the manufacturers claim they can do. Strom Newton, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 12:27:38 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Chilled regulator and secondary cornies I was reading through the archives trying to find information on how to use a cornie keg as a secondary or primary (I'm new to kegging) and was wondering how most of my fellow beerlings do it. I was thinking of just removing the gas in post and inserting a gum rubber stopper and an airlock. On a second note I came across a post which said that keeping your regulator and CO2 attached to the cornie in the fridge wasn't a good idea because you would get condensation which would ruin the regulator. Is this true? What are you supposed to do? Disconnect the CO2 tank and regulator after every use? Seems like a PITA. I know Jeff does a lot of secondary ferm in cornies, what's your system? PS: The pretzels were great! Enjoying my first english mild outa the keg, Pete Fantasia NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 12:39:26 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Isomerized hop extract At 9:42 AM -0500 6/28/02, Doug Hurst wrote: >I found it at Hop Tech http://www.hoptech.com . They >call it Iso-Alpha Acid Extract. It came with a nice instruction sheet >detailing how to determine the number of IBUs you're adding to a given >volume. <snip> >I wouldn't say this stuff is a substitute for the real thing but it's >good in a pinch. To my mind (palate) the bitterness wasn't so clean. >There was a sort of soapy character to it. Some of this perception may >have been due to the interaction of the extract with the oak and dry >hops, but there was more than just bitterness in the adulterated sample >when compared to a non-adulterated sample. I'll continue to use real hops whenever I can, but I noted no off flavors whatsoever. This may be due to a different source - don't know. If anything, I was struck by the increase of clean bitterness with no additional hop flavor, which somehow seemed odd. Of course it wasn't odd, but if I had added more hops to the boil to get the same IBUs, there would have been more than simple bitterness. At any rate, it made an unremarkable bitter very nice indeed. I drank three pints! I mentioned the increase in foam stability. This morning there a half inch of clumpy foam in the bottom of the glass. Now that's stability! I did a google search and found the following additional online sources: http://www.annapolishomebrew.com/shopping/beeradd/index.asp (no indication of how much bitterness is added) http://www.northernbrewer.com/hop-accessories.html (also no indication of strength; I also didn't find it when I did a search on the site for isomerized hope extract) There was also a broken link to it at DeFalco's, but I couldn't find it on the site. Probably there somewhere. Thanks for the pointer to Hoptech. It didn't come up on the google search. A search for iso-hop got hits mostly in Australia and Canada. Must be the British connection. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:39:26 -0400 From: "Bill Lucas" <Homebrew42 at hotmail.com> Subject: Introduction... (w/ Questions) Hello all, My Name is Bill, First let me thank everyone who unwittingly gave me advice and solved my problems... I have been lurking on the digest for a couple of months and have been brewing since around January of this year. I caught the bug in a big way. We have brewed a total of around 8 - 10 batches since then going all grain since our third batch. Once again this list has been very helpful to our efforts to improve our beer and our brewing process so thanks to all for posting similar questions to the ones I have had and to others for answering them. However, I now find myself with some questions that have not been asked yet so I figured now would be a good time to come out of the shadows and post 'em to the board to see what others think... First is about a recent "find" of mine... I was walking the dogs the other night with SWMBO and as we were walking through the adjacent apartment complex she pointed out a bright shiny metal object off by the dumpster... Turns out it was an empty 15.5 gal Molson keg just perfect for a boil kettle. After inspecting it we noticed the last valve-servicing sticker on it read '00 and there was a think layer of dust all over the keg. After letting the keg sit (albeit in the shadows now) for a couple of hours to make sure it wasn't wanted I went back and rescued it from the junkyard. So now there are bright dancing visions of 10-gallon batches and Propane burners running through my head as I giddily carry this new acquisition back to my place. After cleaning it up and what not I started thinking about the conversion process and what might greet me when I drill a hole in the top of the keg. I really can't imagine what 2 years of sitting around in someone's apartment after being tapped by a party tap would do to the inside of the keg and the quality of the air trapped in there. Is there any pre-cleaning I could do on the keg to try to reduce the assault on the senses I can see happening if I just started cutting into the thing? I just don't want to pass out from the fumes. I am sure we can clean the inside, I just don't want the rotting beer and other growing nasties inside of it to knock me out in the process. I have a Draft Setup with a tavern head and a CO2 canister but I am not thrilled at the prospects of running the remaining liquid in the Keg through my tap. so any suggestions on the matter would be great. My Second Question comes in with the last batch of beer we brewed it was a Red Ale (Gack & Gerry's Red Dusk from Home Brew Favorites) and we brewed it on 6/21. It had a post boil og of 1.046. It's fermentation took off, and was so vigorous that it blew all the water out of the airlock twice and had about 3 - 3.5 in of krausen. However the fermentation was only apparent for about 4 days and the krausen had fallen by the day before. By this time we had little over a gallon of trub on the bottom so we racked it to secondary on the 25th. When we racked it had a specific gravity of about 1.016. A couple of my friends asked if we might possibly have it ready by the fourth. Is that feasible? It seems like an awfully short time to let the thing sit in the carboy. I was planning on force carbonating it anyway. Could I keg it and put the CO2 on it and let it finish its fermentation while I am force carbonating it? I took another hydrometer reading and it is down to about 1.012. Last time fermentation seemed to stop at about 1.010 so it should be close, but I would like to get some CO2 into it and give it a chance to sit again after it was carbonated. Does anyone have any comments on this idea? Am I asking for trouble or to ruin an otherwise good batch of beer? My third and final question is in regard to a grain bill I got recently. Last time I was in my LHBS the owner gave me a bag of grain that he said was for another customer who never showed up. The Grain was already ground and sealed in an airtight plastic bag. Scott (the owner) told me it was grain for a Marzen and gave me the grains and threw in 3 oz of Saaz hops for 2 bucks. All I need now is some yeast and I am ready to try my first lager. Since the ingredients came cheap and my time on the weekend seems to be worth a lot less than on the weekdays I decided to experiment and do a decoction mash. I read through that and came up with a mash schedule and everything seems like I am ready to start. However, since there isn't any recipe to speak of, and I have never brewed a lager before I would like some advice on a hoping schedule (amount, time and if Saaz isn't right variety), boil time, use of finings etc. Anything else I should be aware of, especially differences between making ales and lagers. Thanks again to everybody for getting me this far and tolerating this long post. I will try to keep them shorter in the future. Thanks again, Have fun Brewing, Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 16:11:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: taste...watery... In responding to Nick's request for tips on how to make his brew less watery, Darrell Leavitt wrote: >also, you can add a pound of "malto-dextrin" which >will add body >(mouthfeel) to the brew.... I would think that WOULD add body. 4 oz. (1/4 pound) is probably a more reasonable amount. Kent Fletcher brewing in SoCal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 21:39:51 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Sg Readings and Alcohol content I recently received am email from Northern Brewer stating that they have refractometers at a good price. The advertisement also states that, "Please note that refractometers only work in a water solution, and do not read correctly if there is alcohol in the sample". This set me to thinking, (always dangerous, it weakens the nation), is there an equation or algorithm that describes this process in general, more than just the refractometer case? I will use what I think are the standard definitions of: Plato = (weight of sugar)/(weight of sugar + weight of water), SG = (weight of a volume of solution under test)/(weight of equal volume of pure water) Suppose one were to play a mind game (ala Einstein). Case A-- You start with a sugar/water solution of X Plato. As the sugar is converted to alcohol, imagine that the alcohol is removed so that only sugar and water remain in the solution. In this simple case, the Plato would decrease. There should be a relationship between Plato and SG that is relatively simple. Case B-- If the alcohol remains in the solution, it is of lower density than water so the SG reading will be lower. It seems to me that in this case, the Plato is a function of both the original SG (or original Plato) and the present SG. Anyone know what that relationship is? To extend this thought, could one make test solutions by combining various weights of water, sugar, and alcohol (perhaps 70% isopropyl)? If so, how? Could these be used to recalibrate the refractometer readings? Would other substances in beer (and wine) have a significant effect on these calibrations? Or, do I need to get a life? (AJ are you out there) Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
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