HOMEBREW Digest #3980 Thu 04 July 2002

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  Lallemand Scholarship Winner-2002 ("Rob Moline")
  RE:  Wiring help ("Parker Dutro")
  Re: new guy wants to keg (Marc Tiar)
  RE: new guy wants to keg (Kent Fletcher)
  Re: "Boycott the AHA" -- Five years later (Mike Uchima)
  puffed and rolled ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  Clean Up ("Jason A Koehler")
  Re Dave Miller's Books ("Doug Hurst")
  240vac brewery circuit (Calvin Perilloux)
  Miller's books (LJ Vitt)
  Re: Water Softeners ("Larry Bristol")
  Efficiency (Kevin Crouch)
  PVC Pipe as Pressure Vessel? (mohrstrom)
  Re: new guy wants to keg ("Dave and Joan King")
  Dry Hopping a Pilsner ("Menzl's")
  The simple truth ("Dave and Joan King")
  Wheat beer tests (Rudi Wehmschulte)
  Re: 220 volt (David Towson)
  Chemical cleaners (David Towson)
  Cardamom and skunking ("Doug Moyer")
  how long will bottles stay sanitized? (Alan McKay)
  Dave Miller's Books (Andrew Calder)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 23:49:03 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Lallemand Scholarship Winner-2002 Lallemand Scholarship Winner-2002 Lallemand is pleased to announce that Jeremy Lenzendorf of West Bend, WI. is the winner of the 3rd Annual Lallemand Scholarship, drawn at random by Keith Lemcke of the Siebel Institute and World Brewing Academy, at the American Homebrewers Association National Homebrew Conference in Dallas, Texas, on June 22nd, 2002. Jeremy is a graduate of the University of Wisconsin-Platteville with a degree in Mechanical Engineering, 1998, and is a Project Engineer for Progressive Engineering, Inc., an engineering services company in Fond du Lac, WI. He plans to pursue his Masters through long distance learning this fall and to be certified as a Professional Engineer in the spring of 2003. He became interested in brewing about 12 years ago when he helped his uncle brew up a batch. In college he dreamed of the day that he could have a brewery in his own home, and in 1999 he brewed his first batch, a Belgian Wit. Jeremy lives with his supportive wife, Jennifer, two miniature Dauschunds and three cats. "It's awesome to have won the scholarship! This is the opportunity of a lifetime for a small homebrewer like me!" So moved was Jeremy by his opportunity to attend Siebel, he decided to move his professional certification exam back by six months in order to attend. Now, that's the brewing spirit! The Lallemand Scholarship is awarded to an AHA Member, and offers a two week Concise Course to the Siebel Institute and World Brewing Academy in Chicago, Illinois, valued at $2750, and a $1000 stipend to offset travel and accommodation expenses. For more information, go to http://www.beertown.org/AHA/lallemand2.htm http://www.siebelinstitute.com/ http://www.lallemand.com/Brewing/eng/aboutus.shtm or contact Rob Moline at lallemand-yeast at mchsi.com - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/2002 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:10:48 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: RE: Wiring help Aaron, I just put my SOFC to work for the first time tonight! Seems as though one jug of ice, with the lid on loosely, will keep the inside of the chiller at a nice 69 degrees without the fan even running! Of course, this is in an air conditioned house at an ambient temp of about 72, so it's makes sense. Anyway, here's the skinny: If your fans are the little three inch kind, make sure they are AC, (you said your adapter is AC, correct?) If the fans are DC (direct current) then the adapter will need to be direct current also. In addition, the ampage needs to be compatible, meaning the adapter can't operate in a range that will fry your fans. Same with the volts. That's why Ken Schwartz, the SOFC engineer, recommends the non-digital type thermostat. Because the cooling system of the chiller acts as a temperature controlled switch, it's a single unit. The adapter powers the fan, but only when the thermometer is set at a lower temp. than the air temp, causing the thermostat tho turn "ON" and complete the electrical connection to the fan. The DC adapter is ALSO powering the thermostat at all times. A digital thermostat requires more current to operate, meaning the adapter will need to supply more electricity, meaning unless there is a converter in the thermostat, the fan will fail to work or go hay wire. On top of all this, the DC (direct current) fan and adapter have polarized wires, so one is negative and the other is positive. They are like batteries, and will be marked as such. Sometimes all you get as an indication is some dots or writing on one of the wires. That one is usually positive. Anyway, make sure you connect the neg. to the neg., and the pos. to the pos., otherwise you may burn up your fans. You can e-mail Ken Schwartz, too, if you need more detail. Good luck, Parker Dutro Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 22:17:42 -0700 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Re: new guy wants to keg Dan, Best one I saw when I first tried kegging was this site: http://www.bodensatz.com/homebrew/kegging/index.html -Marc At 09:47 PM 7/2/02, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:06:19 -0400 >From: "dan kehoe" <dan.kehoe at verizon.net> >Subject: new guy wants to keg > >hi all. i am relatively new to the brew world (again) i took a few years off >after just starting to brew and have nothing but sucess thus far. i >typically do partial grain batches 5 gallons at a time. my problem is that, >even brewing a batch every 3 weeks or so, i cant keep the stuff around. >(hey, i like to drink, what can i say?) so, i would like to make larger >batches and keg them, so i can keep some brew around. i know NOTHING about >kegging and would like to find a good resource, like a "kegging for idiots" >any place you gods can reccomend that i can look online for a start? thanks. >hoppy brewing, dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:19:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: new guy wants to keg In HBD #3979, Dan Kehoe asked about getting into kegging "i know NOTHING about kegging and would like to find a good resource, like a "kegging for idiots" any place you gods can reccomend that i can look online for a start?" Check out: "sing your Cornelius keg draft system"/ by Pat Anderson You MIGHT be able to find it in a good public library. Kent Fletcher brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 01:32:25 -0500 From: Mike Uchima <uchima at pobox.com> Subject: Re: "Boycott the AHA" -- Five years later Thank you Louis, for an excellent progress report on what's been happening with the AHA. I couldn't agree more. I've been brewing since 1995, but didn't join the AHA until 1999 -- right around the time when things started to turn around. I have enjoyed the AHA conferences immensely (I've been to the last 4 now). With Ray at the helm, Zymurgy really seems to have turned a corner. While Zymurgy doesn't -- and, quite frankly, shouldn't -- fill the void left by Brewing Techniques' demise, in my opinion it now strikes a very good balance between beginner and advanced topics, which is *exactly* what it should be doing. The reconciliation with the BJCP (as evidenced by the AHA dumping their own style guidelines in favor of the BJCP guidelines two years ago, and Bill Slack's role at the awards banquet in Dallas last month) is also a very positive development. Unity at the national level is a good thing. I hope that the steady improvements we have been seeing these past few years will continue. Cheers! - -- == Mike Uchima == uchima at pobox.com == http://www.pobox.com/~uchima == Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 18:45:38 +0930 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: puffed and rolled In the Stirling Organic market today (in the soggy Adelaide Hills) I saw -rolled barley -rolled oats -rolled wheat and -rolled rye as well as their puffed versions. Apart from the puffed variety costing up to 8 times the price what differences are there in mashing requirements and flavour? tdh Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 08:15:42 -0500 From: "Jason A Koehler" <Jason.Koehler at ipaper.com> Subject: Clean Up I just wanted to survey the group to see what everyone else is using for sterilizing and cleaning. I am a clean freak when it comes to my brew process. I am currently using a powdered cleaner called B-brite. It is the same as what they use in local bars and restaurants. I use it for cleaning all objects that touch the brew as well as for sterilizing bottles and removing labels. It is does a fantastic job and rinses completely clean leaving no residue but the problem I have is that it is rather pricey. So what I need to know is what types of cleaners everyone else is using or if anyone has a source where I can get a B-brite cleaner at a cheaper price?? Thanks again!! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 08:55:22 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re Dave Miller's Books Michael writes: >>I'm a big fan of Dave Miller's "The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing." I noticed that Dave had a new book out called "Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide" ... I'm wondering if this is a different book or an updated version of the one I have. I hope it is as that is my favorite book.<< "Homebrewing Guide" is a different, later book which I would highly recommend. It's been out for at least three years. I learned a few of the basics of all grain from Papazian but wasn't confident about trying to brew all grain until after I had read Miller's book. He does an excellent job of explaining the process in a logical, technical yet easy to understand manner. Miller's writing is better organized than Papazian's as well. coincidentally I pulled this book off the shelf a couple days ago and found it to still be quite informative. There's information I must have glossed over previously, which now that I've gained more experience and knowledge, is very useful. It's an excellent book for the intermediate and advanced brewer. I wouldn't recommend it as a beginning brewing text. For the beginner I'd still recommend Papazian's TNCJOHB (my copy is simply TCJOHB) or perhaps Miller's "Complete Handbook of Homebrewing". Hope this helps, Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 07:17:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: 240vac brewery circuit Steve Alexander notes that: >> There is sadly no US standard 240 plug&socket >> receptical design. There are 3&4 prong connector pairs... Yes and no. There is not a single standard for all 240v plugs, but there are conventions, and (importantly) there are different format outlets for different amperage- rated circuits. For example, a 30 amp rated circuit breaker uses [I forget which] gauge wire and leads to one of the 30-amp style outlets. The smaller 20-amp 240v outlet used for some A/C units is only slightly different than our usual 120v outlet in that one of the vertical connectors is horizontal; these are easy to use and not too obtrusive (but use only for their amp ratings, please!). If you've got different outlets installed than what the circuit is designed for, especially if your outlets indicate more amperage than the circuit can handle, you'll still be OK if you don't go over the minimum rating of the "weakest link", but the electrical inspectors might not be so pleased ith your handiwork. Some detailed electrical handbooks will show the formats for the different amp-rating 240v sockets, and it's recommended to use them. Note that the twist-lock plug/sockets, by the way, which Steve uses, are particularly useful for "mobile" applications like power tools or extension cords, since they should prevent the plug from being yanked out of the socket inadvertantly. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 08:11:03 -0700 (PDT) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Miller's books In HBD#3979, Michael asked about Dave Miller books: >I'm a big fan of Dave Miller's "The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing." >I noticed that Dave had a new book out called "Dave Miller's >Homebrewing Guide" >I'm wondering if this is a different book or an updated version of the >one I have. I hope it is as that is my favorite book. I have both books and I consider the homebrewing guide to be an update to the complete handbook. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 10:11:01 -0500 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Water Softeners On Tue, 02 Jul 2002 09:04:30 -0400, Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> wrote: >...<snip>... >While it might not have caused a problem, especially in this brew, >it's not a good idea to brew with softened water. An ion exchange >softener replaces each calcium and magnesium ion with two sodium ions >and leave any alkalinity unchanged. so you are removing the desired >calcium ions and leaving the generally often unwanted (at least for >pale beers) alkalinity. Actually, Jeff, that is only partially correct. An ion exchange softener replaces calcium and magnesium ions with another ion, but that ion is not necessarily sodium. The outer tank on such softeners is filled with "salt" tablets. Periodically, the system will use this to purge the inner tank of the calcium, magnesium, and other ions collected, and to recharge the catalyst that encourages the ion exchange to take place. "Salt" is a generic term (even more generic than "beer"), and does not necessarily refer to sodium chloride (NaCl) otherwise known as "table salt". When NaCl is used in the water softener, the calcium and magnesium ions are replaced with sodium ions, as you said. This, of course, has some undesirable consequences. Perhaps the most important of these involves individuals who must restrict their sodium intake for medical reasons. Water high in sodium is also bad for plants, making it undesirable for such mundane purposes as watering the lawn. It is becoming more common to use potassium chloride (KCl) in water softeners. In this case, the calcium and magnesium ions are replaced with potassium ions with far fewer negative consequences. Potassium chloride is often used for medical purposes as a substitute for common table salt. And plants love potassium! Fertilizers are rated according to their N-P-K content; this refers to the usable amounts of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in them. So, if one has a water softener, they may want to consider switching from sodium chloride to potassium chloride. Both are widely available and sold specifically for use in water systems. Potassium chloride is slightly more expensive than sodium chloride, but may be well worth it in many cases. For brewing purposes, I will take some exception to the general statement that it is "not a good idea to brew with softened water". Any potable water can be used to make good beer, and artificially softened water is no exception. Like any water, it will be better at making some styles than others, and may require "treatment" (perhaps to reduce alkalinity) before it is "ideal" for any particular style. Whether it is artificially softened or not, the key is to know what your water contains, regardless of what those ions might be, and to act accordingly. You might have guessed that I have a water softener. When I moved to the Double Luck, I made sure that my brewing water was not softened. I decided it would be better to brew with "natural" well water than with "artificially" softened water. In retrospect, this was a strange decision since before the move, I had brewed successfully with softened water for almost 20 years [I suspect it inhibits oxidation]. Frankly, I am now beginning to regret this decision. There is nothing wrong with using softened water for brewing. Simply know what you water contains and if necessary, treat it accordingly. Larry Bristol Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2] http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 09:50:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Kevin Crouch <kcrouching at yahoo.com> Subject: Efficiency On June 29th Nathan writes "In a recent post someone spoke of efficiency. I see it mentioned elsewhere regarding brewing with grain and such, except I haven't seen it explained (even in the several home-brew books I have)." Nathan, simply put, efficiency is a measurement of the extract of malt sugars from your grain as a percentage of the theoretical yield of the grain under laboratory conditions. You aren't all-grain brewing yet, which pushes the issue out into the margins of frivolity and novelty. For all-grain batches, my humble philosophy is, and that is all it is, is that the only use for the concept of efficiency at the homebrewing level is that you need to be able to formulate recipes that yeild your target gravity/volume numbers accurately. For example, I know that I generally get about a 60% efficiency because I stop runoff a bit early (around 1025) for a variety of reasons. If I formulated recipes based on a standard 70-75% efficiency benchmark that many people use, then I would end up with much less extract, (less beer or lower original gravity - your choice) than I had anticipated, thus requiring a band-aid approach in the later stages. When you get into all grain, brew up a batch of Anything Goes Amber and then query the digest again to find out how to calculate your efficiency. Kevin Crouch Vancouver, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 14:20:18 -0400 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: PVC Pipe as Pressure Vessel? Does anyone have experience using run of the mill Schedule 40 PVC Pipe (~4inch dia) as a pressure vessel? I'm having a vision of using it as a low-pressure (20-40PSI) reservoir of CO2 to dispense (at regulated pressure) the two cornies in my brand-spankin' new undercounter fridge (Sanyo 4.9ft^3, thanks for all of the input!) Any caveats - cycle life, catastrophic failure reports, decreased virility, etc.? Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:43:43 -0400 From: "Dave and Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com> Subject: Re: new guy wants to keg Dan, Your local brew shop should be happy to get your started with kegging. You need a rebuilt (or new) keg with picnic spout and CO2 hose, CO2 tank (get a 10 lb, they cost the same as 5 lb to refill), a regulator and you're ready to go (about $120 or so. You'll need the graph of pressure vs. temperature for "volume's of CO2" dissolved. Your target depends on style, but 2.5 volumes will work to start. After you over-pressurize to get it up to level (about 3 days at 65F and ~35 psi), you need to stabilize it in the fridge (about 14 psi once it's at ~35F, assuming about a 7 ft hose). When you first draft, open the spout full, and if it gushes out, bleed most of the pressure off, try again, if it comes out real slow and it's flat, jack it up 5 psi or so. You'll develop a feel for it. BTW, in the keg is the time to dry hop, and put a float in the bag with the hops, not a weight, like you would in a secondary. Kegging is a good way to learn lots about gas laws and solubility, sort of a geek thing. :-) Do a Google search, and you'll probably find lots. If you have specific questions, let me know. Dave the Hop Head (BIER) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:50:58 -0400 From: "Menzl's" <menzl at concentric.net> Subject: Dry Hopping a Pilsner Hello all. Lurking but gaining in experience from all the daily posts... I am making a Pilsner Urquell clone and recently racked it to a secondary. I took it up to 60 deg F for 36 hours for a diacetyl rest and now have it down to 35 deg F for 7-8 weeks (as per my interpretation from many sources including John Palmers "How to Brew".) for lagering. The recipe I am using indicates to dry hop after racking and then bottle when fermentation is complete. I am a unsure if I should dry hop now or wait until later in the lagering process. Any suggestions for improvements? Thanks again for allowing me lurk and learn! William Menzl Midland, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:47:41 -0400 From: "Dave and Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com> Subject: The simple truth Paul, I fully agree! But please pass on your Imperial Stout recipe. I've been working on my 85 IBU all grain IPA for years, and it's time to make an outstanding Imperial Stout, but I need a good starting point. Thanks Paul, Dave, the Hop Head (BIER) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:13:40 -0500 From: Rudi Wehmschulte <rjwehmschulte at chemdept.chem.ou.edu> Subject: Wheat beer tests Brewers: I just learned about the results of a taste and quality test of 32 German Wheat beers. It was performed by the German equivalent of Consumer Report, "Stiftung Warentest" and a summary can be found at their webpage at http://www.warentest.de/. Klick on "Helles Hefeweizen". All beers were of good to excellent quality with one exception: Loebauer Bergquell Lausitzer Hefe-Weizen. This one contained traces of monochloroacetic acid, a disinfectant. Rudi - -- *********************************************** Rudi Wehmschulte, Dr. rer. nat. (405) 325-2388 (office) Dept. of Chemistry and Biochemistry (405) 325-2827 (lab) University of Oklahoma (405)-325-6111 (FAX) 620 Parrington Oval, Rm. 208 Norman, OK 73019 e-mail: rjwehmschulte at chemdept.chem.ou.edu http://cheminfo.chem.ou.edu/faculty/rjw.html *********************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 18:09:35 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: 220 volt In HBD #3979, Wayne Aldrich inquired: "My European appliances are wired for single phase 220 Volts (1) Hot and (1) common. How can I connect them to a 3 prong outlet for service in America?" Common 220/240 volt home appliances in the United States are single phase devices, and require only two wires for power. The "common", to which you referred in your post is called the "neutral", and it is not used at all for a 220/240 appliance unless there is a need to also power a 110/120 volt device (such as a lamp or clock) in the appliance. The third wire usually found is a protective ground that grounds the frame/cabinet of the appliance to prevent the possibility of the frame/cabinet becoming "hot" if the insulation in the appliance should happen to fail. This is NOT the same as the "common" to which you referred. It is a separate conductor used strictly for protective purposes, and it only carries current in the event of an insulation failure. If your equipment doesn't already have a three-wire power cord, I suggest you change the cord to allow use of a three-prong plug so you can have the benefit of the protective ground. I am assuming here that both wires of your appliance(s) are insulated from the frame/cabinet. You can easily verify this by testing with an ohmmeter between each power wire and the frame/cabinet. With the ohmmeter set on its most sensitive range (R x 10,000 or higher), you should not get a reading (i.e., open circuit). This is done with the appliance unplugged, of course. Connecting either power wire to the frame/cabinet is dangerous, even if one of the wires is supposedly grounded, as mis-wiring of a receptacle will cause the "hot" wire to be where the grounded wire is expected. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 19:36:13 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Chemical cleaners Here's a question for the chemists in the readership. I use two copper-coil heat exchangers in my brewing rig, one for controlling mash temperature, and the other for cooling the wort after the boil. Both coils have wort running through them, and I want to be sure that I get them clean after use. My preferred method of cleaning is by circulation of a cleaning solution, and then flushing with potable water. What can I use as a cleaning solution that (1) works very well to remove the expected deposits, and (2) is inexpensive? My impression of the prices of popular compounds such as those in the Five Star Chemicals line is that they are rather pricey. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 22:12:07 -0400 From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com> Subject: Cardamom and skunking I remember (some time back) a discussion of using cardamom to prevent skunking. I recall that some posters mentioned adding cardamom to every batch for this reason. Since Spencer's search engine appears to be unavailable, and I can't get the other search engine to give results worth a poop, I must ask... If you regularly add cardamom to your wort as a skunk repellent, how much and when? Brew on! Doug Moyer Salem, VA Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'" ~ Dave Barry "I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us with sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use." ~ Galileo Galilei Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 22:16:10 -0400 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: how long will bottles stay sanitized? I'm bottling mead in grolsch bottles. I soak them in bleach water (gaskets taken off and soaked as well), rinse well, then give the bottles a sulphite spritz. I drain the sulphite solution for a second or two then invert and cap the bottles (leaving a quarter tsp or so of solution). I did a bunch about a few days ago and would prefer not to have to do them again when I bottle my mead later this week. cheers, -Alan p.s. yeah, I know bleach isn't good for the rubber gaskets ... - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site (tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 19:41:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Andrew Calder <arcalder2000 at yahoo.com> Subject: Dave Miller's Books Howdy Frosty, You wrote:"...I noticed that Dave had a new book out called "Dave Miller'sHomebrewing Guide"..." This is a different book than his "complete guide" and in my opinion worth owning. ===== Hope this helps, Andrew Calder, New Lenox, IL [218.1,257] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
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