HOMEBREW Digest #3995 Mon 22 July 2002

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Moose Drool (Robert Marshall)
  Rust on equipment ("Lou King")
  Bowerman Data Point and Punishment For Sean ("Phil Yates")
  agave (Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY)
  Acetobacter problems ("Tom & Shirley Klepfer")
  RE: Filtering Wort ("David Houseman")
  Re: Brewing without lifting ("Pete Calinski")
  RE: Brewing without lifting ("David Houseman")
  RE: brewing without lifting ("Joseph Marsh")
  RE: Acetobacter (Bill Wible)
  Brewing without lifting (Bill Wible)
  Glass vs. Plastic (again) (Bill Wible)
  DME storage ("Menzl's")
  The modelling of speciality malts (Jeff Renner)
  Fw: AHA membership (by way of Jeff Renner)
  cask conditioning in a 3 gallon keg (Susan.Ruud)
  re: More AHA - hit page down if you don't want to read any more... ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Toast My malt? ("Jodie")
  Oh Phil ... see what you started ... ("Steve Alexander")
  Re: High FG in Strong Lager ("Steve Alexander")
  Re: Oh Phil ... see what you started ... (fwd) (Pat Babcock)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 23:51:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Robert Marshall <robertjm1 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Moose Drool >From the Big Sky Brewing website: Moose Drool is our Brown Ale. Far and away the best selling draft beer brewed in Montana, Moose Drool is chocolate brown in color with a creamy texture. Our brown ale is a malty beer with just enough hop presence to keep it from being too sweet. The aroma also mostly comes from the malt with a hint of spiciness being added by the hops. Moose Drool is brewed with pale, caramel, chocolate, and whole black malts; and Kent Goldings, Liberty, and Willamette hops. It has an original gravity of 13 degrees Plato, and is 4.2% alcohol by weight, 5.3% by volume. While its not a recipe, it atleast gives you a heads up on what they've got in it! BTW: I went to UM, sadly prior to Big Sky opening up, but have had a chance to try this. Great beer and great logos!! http://www.bigskybrew.com Robert > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 22:08:17 -0700 > From: Rick Lassabe <bayrat at worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Want Recipe > > Does anyone have what they think is a clone recipe, > (all grain, single > temperature infusion if possible), for Big Sky > Brewing's "Moose Drool"? > > The only information I got from the brewery was > that this beer finishes > > somewhere around 5.0 % alcohol content. > > Rick Lassabe > Bayrat's "Bayou Degradable Brewery" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 05:44:57 -0400 From: "Lou King" <lking at pobox.com> Subject: Rust on equipment I made the mistake of letting my counter pressure filler sit in One Step too long. I don't know a thing about chemistry but I think there is hydrogen peroxide in the One Step, which probably reacted with some (not stainless) steel in the handles of the valves of the filler, to form (you guessed it) iron oxide. I did a Google search on 'remove rust' and saw suggestions to use Coke (which apparently turns the rust back to iron), Naval Jelly, full strength vinegar, aqua fresh toothpaste, soak in baking soda solution with electric charge applied (electrolysis), or a product called Red-B-Gone. I haven't tried any of these suggestions yet. I'm not sure which would work best. Has anyone used any of these methods (or others) successfully to remove rust from their beer making equipment? Part of the reason for the post is so others can benefit from my mistake. I also had some oxidation on some of my brass fittings, which came off with a good scrubbing. I'm pretty sure the iron oxide will be more stubborn, though. Lou (happy member of AHA) King Ijamsville, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 20:37:51 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Bowerman Data Point and Punishment For Sean Whilst Joseph Marsh got his wires a bit crossed and wanted to point out that the Coriolis effect was zero at the equator (who argued that it wasn't?), John Bowerman got right to the point in describing the sounds he heard when his beer ran out in Alaska. Good on you John, this is a new data point which will be added to the list for scientific examination. Now if I can just add a comment regarding the luckless Sean who hasn't won a lot of friends on the HBD of late, I suggest you send the miserable bugger down here. After a night or two at the Burradoo Hilton, he'll be more than glad to get home and happy to pay the AHA $38.00 just to never be sent down here again!! We'll even wash his mouth out with soap for free! Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 08:41:15 -0400 From: Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY%SUNY at esc.edu Subject: agave I got the blue agave nectar from St Patricks...in texas... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 08:07:39 -0500 From: "Tom & Shirley Klepfer" <lee-thomas at indian-creek.net> Subject: Acetobacter problems Marc has had threee brews ruined by acetobacter. Scratches in plastic fermenters may be harboring the bacteria, but acetobacter is aerobic and can only do its dirty work in the presence of air. As long as your wort or beer is fermenting and generating CO2, you're OK. Afterwards, you need to bottle or keg it, or rack to a glass or stainless vessel. Even then you must be careful not to have much AIRspace over the beer for any great length of time, CO2 or nitrogen is OK. Most plastics are permeable to air so are not very suitable for lagering or storage. Acetobacter is present everywhere and unprotected beer or wine is vulnerable. But it takes time. Other souring bacteria are another story.....they can work anaerobically. As always, good sanitation and avoiding contact with air are the answers. Prosit! Thomas Klepfer Medina, Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:37:53 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Filtering Wort Rob Loeken asks about filtering wort. I assume you mean filtering the trub and hops from the wort in the kettle before you put this into your fermenter? I'll attest that trying to just pour the wort through some filter such as cheese cloth, coffee filters or whatever, will just clog unless the surface area is very large. The best approach is to whirlpool the wort in the kettle by stirring vigorously (without aerating) for several minutes and then let the kettle sit with the lid on for 15 minutes. The vast majority of the hops and trub will accumulate in the center of the kettle in a mound. Then siphon from the edge of pot (or open a valve on the edge of the pot). For a value, some sort of filter on the outlet may still be needed but it won't get clogged up as most of the material is sitting in the center of the pot. For the siphon, I took a 6" square of stainless steel screening and made a "cover" for the end of the racking cane that keeps gunk out of the siphon. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:39:50 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Brewing without lifting I used to have a "bad" back. (Knock on wood.) I found that the one thing that did the most to reduce the pain was raising the height of my brewing sink and counter. I am 6'2" tall. If I work bent over, even slightly, I will aggravate my back. I built my brewing sink and counter to be 45" from the floor. I still lift carboys, full plastic buckets, etc. No back pain. If I do something like wash the dishes in the "standard height" kitchen sink, in just a few minutes, I can feel my back getting stiff. Now, no more laying on my back on the floor for hours, struggling to get out of a chair, stopping the car to stretch every hour. Works for me. Good luck. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:43:29 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Brewing without lifting Walt asks about brewing without lifting. I too have to do this. One word --- Pumps. With pumps you don't have to lift, or at least lift much. I use a Teel pump to pump water and wort. I have a peristaltic pump for pumping wort. I have a CO2 driven sanitary pump that I can use to pump cold wort or even beer. Also, gravity helps if you build your brewery to take advantage, you pump water up and everything else falls down. The only thing I still have to move by hand is the spend grains. But that's not too bad.... Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:31:04 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: brewing without lifting One thing I do to keep my back in reasonable shape is to use 10 gallon rubbermaid buckets to hold my carboys. They have good strong handles and are pretty slip proof. Even if I were to drop one the glass would be contained. I move them around with a handtruck. Other advantages are; I can make them light proof easily and they work well as swamp coolers. I brew outside and to avoid lifting big heavy pots of water I made up a water filter that attaches to my hose. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 11:27:07 -0400 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: RE: Acetobacter Kent Fletcher writes: >3. Ditch the bucket and use a glass carboy for your >primary fermenter. Oh, no! Not the plastic vs. glass argument again!! aaaaaarrrrrgggghhhhh!! Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 12:06:31 -0400 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Brewing without lifting > I am in need of some advice on how to limit the > lifting needed in brewing. Walt, I'll be interested to read any other takes on this myself. Lifting can be limited. The most common 'beer trees' for all grain systems have 3 tiers. There are good plans for a 3 tier beer tree available on realbeer.com. Search for 'Beer Tree', and the article should come up. In a 3 tier system, the highest tank is the one used to heat mash/sparge water. This can be filled using a hose, which eliminates lifting. Be careful that it's a 'good' hose. I remember reading at least one article where someone's beer picked up an awful flavor and was ruined by an old water hose. Of course, it also needs to have a burner, so you can heat mash and sparge water up there. Filled by a hose, drained by gravity. Not much lifting here, except when setting up and taking down the stand. The mash tun is on the second level, which is about 4.5 to 5 feet high on the tree we use here. This can be loaded with water and grain a few pounds at a time. It has to be emptied though, post brewing. That's where most of our lifting happens. But again, you can scoop out the spent grain a little at a time. It's also not a bad idea to have a burner on the mash tun level, if you're not using a cooler, so you can adjust mash temp. The lowest of the three levels is the brew pot. Although it's the lowest level, it still has to be high enough to get a carboy or other receiving fermenting vessel under it. Again, this is filled by gravity from the mash tun and drained by a ball valve into the fermenter, so not much lifting there, either. Needless to say, the brew pot needs a burner, too. With this setup almost all of our lifting is in setting up and taking down the stand, and cleaning up. We're not moving vessels around that are loaded with 30 pounds of grain, or are full of water, or anything like that. Hope some of this helps. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 13:23:12 -0400 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Glass vs. Plastic (again) >you've got many micro-scratches hiding funk >scratches can hide bacteria and ruin your brews. >scratches in the plastic where little beasties can hide from the sanitizer >colonies residing in minute scratches >Plastic can harbor little tiny scratches >glass is much less susceptible to tiny scratches that harbor bacteria. We go through this every so often. Boy, look at these 'canned' answers. Somebody really has it drilled into these people that 'plastic is bad' and 'glass is good'. Who started this, the glass manufacturers? There is a segment of brewers who I refer to as the 'glass snobs'. They're absolutely convinced, some of them with no experience on the matter whatsoever, that you can't brew good beer in plastic. Every time somebody reports an infection, everybody quickly points to the plastic fermenter. Automatically. And always the same canned answer. 'Small scratches in plastic are like giant canyons, where bacteria and germs can hide from your sanitizer.' Then you're not using a good sanitizer. Personally, I have been brewing for just over 6 years now. I've made over 135 batches. I've had an occasional infection, but usually because of something stupid I did, or some experiment I was trying, not because my primary fermenter is made of food grade plastic. I use PBW to clean, and Star San to sanitize. Plastic works fine for me. I do all my primary fermentations in plastic. A 'normal' primary ferment usually takes 4 to 10 days, depending on such factors as the health of the yeast, etc. I always do secondary fermentation, and that I always do in glass. So the beer is in plastic for 4 - 10 days, usually around a week, and 2 weeks or so in the glass. In 2000, I won 2 second place awards, and 2 third place awards in 3 area competitions. In 2001, I won a first and a second in the same 3 competitions. In 2002, I only entered one competition due to lack of brewing, and I got one third place. So how bad is plastic? Yes, it is true that plastic is a soft material, and if you abuse it, it can get all scratched and beat up. And you probably should replace plastic fermenters every year or so. They don't last forever. But 5 and 6.5 gallon glass bottles are also heavy, slippery, and difficult to pick up and move. They also have to be covered with something, so light doesn't hit the beer, since they're clear glass. And they also get scratched, and need to replaced, if they don't get broken first. I'll never forget the time a 5 gallon carboy I was cleaning slipped out of my hand and landed on a 6.5 gallon carboy that was on the floor nearby waiting to be cleaned. That was over a year ago, and I'm still finding tiny bits of glass. So both glass and plastic have their advantages and disadvantages. Please don't automatically decide that 'plastic is bad' and 'glass is good'. And please don't automatically blame your plastic fermenter every time your beer comes out the slightest bit funky. Review your entire process. Sanitizer contact time. Plastic syphon tube and lines. Any strainer you pour your beer through to catch hops. The spoon you stir with. Anything you use to take a hydrometer sample or gravity reading. There are numerous possible points of contamination. And don't forget that it's July, and hot. That affects yeast and fermentation, too. You know, I also have customers who refuse to use a 3 piece airlock, because they were given the twin bubble lock in their beginner kits, so for them, that's the 'right' kind of airlock, and the only one they can use. Silly, isn't it? But true. First impressions are everything, sometimes. If you're taught something early in your brewing learning cycle, it's very hard to un-learn it, even when its wrong. I won't even go into the 'old school' winemakers, who don't believe in using any chemicals, or even adding yeast to their wine. The kind of fermenter they use isn't their biggest problem, either. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 15:56:02 -0400 From: "Menzl's" <menzl at concentric.net> Subject: DME storage Being surrounded by lakes here in Michigan, we tend to be slightly humid in the summer. I am wondering if anyone has some novel ideas for storing DME after opening the bag. There must be a better way... William Menzl Midland, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:37:14 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: The modelling of speciality malts Brewers I don't understand much of this, but there is an article at http://www.biotech.bham.ac.uk/BTNews44/Speciality%20Malts.htm On roasted and crystal malts and modeling their color by sue of a scanner and formulae that I couldn't possibly understand. Someone may find it interesting and enlightening. I've cc'd AJ, who gave a talk on color analysis of beer at MCAB4 in Cleveland. maybe he can make something of it. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:46:56 -0400 From: Fred Scheer <FHopheads at msn.com> (by way of Jeff Renner) Subject: Fw: AHA membership Brewers I'm posting this for Fred Scheer. Jeff ============= Jeff, can you please post this on the HBD. I don't know why it starts rejecting my posts again, have to check my comp. Thanks, Fred - ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred Scheer Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 7:25 AM To: HomeBrew Digest Subject: AHA membership Regarding F. Waltman's posting, I have to give my 2c: In the past couple of weeks I saw some postings about the AHA and his membership. The AHA can only be as strong as the membership is. If you, Mr. Waltman are not satisfied with the way the organization is run, please join the club and attempt to make any POSITIVE changes. Charlie, Paul, Ray and the whole team at the AHA doing a GREAT JOB running this large organization. The ZYMURGY magazine is one of the best "BREWING" mags in the world, and believe me, I get lot's of international magazines, also do I write for lot of them. Ray Daniels is doing a great job editing the mag. BTW; Charlie, Paul or Ray; please sign me up as member for the AHA, so I can help making positive changes ( I'm saying that because you guys doing such a fine job, so my help is not that much needed). Happy American Beer Month Fred M. Scheer Hopfen und Malz Gott Erhalts! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:46:12 -0500 From: Susan.Ruud at ndsu.nodak.edu Subject: cask conditioning in a 3 gallon keg Hi, I would like some advice and am sure I can get it here. What I am planning on doing is making a 5 gallon batch of Scotish light and then bottling 2 gallons and putting the other 3 gallons in a 3 gallon mini- keg and cask conditioning it from there. What I really need to know is how much corn sugar or dry malt should be added to the keg to do this and I am thinking that I probably want to put less than 3 gallons in the mini-keg but how much less. I am also planning on brewing this tomorrow and wish to serve it in about 2 weeks. Does this give me time to get it properly carbonated? Or with these time constraints would it be better to just force carbonate lightly and then serve thru the beer engine? Thanks for your help. Susan Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 08:52:18 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: More AHA - hit page down if you don't want to read any more... Fred, you wrote: >Regardless of the word "Association" in the name, the AHA is not a true "membership organization." Every association I have been involved with, either as a member or as a consultant, has allowed the membership to control the direction of the group thru the election of officers and/or directors. A "Board of Advisors" does not cut it. Until that time the only real vote I have is to withhold my dollars by not "joining." >BTW, one of the original beefs way back when was the way they tried to restrict public access of their financial documents. Has that changed? Are they more open about this now? (This is not a troll, I really would like to know if this has changed.) Well, Fred, AHA members do have a say on the Board of Directors. The AHA Board of Advisors elects three of its' members to the Board of Directors of the AOB, as does the IBS (the pro-brewers organization. The AOB (Assoc. of Brewers) is the parent or umbrella organization of both organizations. Louis Bonham is now one of these Directors (as I believe he mentioned in his recent post). AHA members have now elected all the members of the BoA, and thus had a say in putting Louis (and two other BoA people on the Board of Directors. Is this putting the fox in charge of the hen house? No, I don't think so. Louis got involved in the AHA (along with Pat Babcock, myself, and a lot of others) to help make changes in the AHA, to try to make it into the organization we'd like it to be. On the question of public access to the financial documents; I don't know but will find out and let you know. That certainly was one of Louis' (and others) initial complaints. >From recent responses to the AHA thread, it appears that most folks think the AHA has improved and become an organization worth belonging to. It obviously isn't perfect; but then we're not done trying to improve it. Hopefully that will always be an ongoing process. Obviously, there are still critics, but we're listening to those critics. I have corresponded directly with Sean several times, asking for specific suggestions or programs that he'd like to see the AHA offer, that would be of benefit to him or other brewers not interested in competitions, judging, conferences,etc. He's responded and given me thoughtful, reasonable answers. It was unfortunate how the discussion here had degenerated to personal attacks. It'd obviously be better if we could all disagree face to face, preferably with homebrew on the table. That isn't always possible, so we've all got to try to keep our online discussions to point and leave the personal attacks out. Bottom line; the AHA has improved drastically, continues to improve and evolve, and we want as many of you as possible involved in the process. We do at least listen to complaints, though we'd certainly much prefer that complaints be accompanied by specific suggestions or solutions. Steve Jones, newly elected BoA member, recently asked for suggestions in a HBD post; I've done the same. I think I can safely say the entire Board of Advisors is on the same page on this issue. Let us know what you think or want, either here on the HBD, on TechTalk if you're an AHA member, or through direct email (you can reach any or all of us, our email addresses are on the AHA Beertown website). Or best of all, in person over some beer. I guess I should end this by saying that the recent discussions have had an unlooked for side-effect. A significant number of folks have joined the AHA, citing the AHA thread here as the reason. One brewer stated that it was 'time to come in from the cold." So please keep that up. Join (or re-join) and help us help you. (sorry, but I just recently rented & watched Jerry Maguire). The real reason for joining the AHA is that it's really a lot of fun. Great group, great beer. Do it. Mark Tumarkin Member of the AHA and the AHA BoA Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 09:44:17 -0400 From: "Jodie" <jodie at ga.prestige.net> Subject: Toast My malt? I'm about to brew a recipe that calls for toasted 2-row pale malt. Do I toast it in the oven as I would nuts for baking? Jodie Barthlow Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 19:33:42 -0000 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oh Phil ... see what you started ... I know Phil Yates started the coriolis discussion because the technical nature of the oxidation notes left him with migraines but .... Joseph Marsh wrote ... >Coriolis effect is zero at the equator not the poles and what does NE europe >have to do with it anyway?;*) No way. The forces involved in coriolis always cause rotation with the axis parallel to the earth's axis and it related to the change in distance to the axis. If you draw beer in the N hemisphere it may spin clockwise in the glass and in the southern hemisphere counterclockwise (or is it the opposite), but that's just a frame of reference thing - the Aussies are looking at the bottom of their beers from where I stand. If you draw a beer at the equator the stuff will spin from the east edge of the glass across the top and down the west edge - still clockwise from my reference point and counterclockwise from Phils. To understand coriolis consider last years office party. You may recall sitting in an office chair spinning counterclockwise (as viewed from above) with a mug of beer at arms lengths. You were spinning so long that the beer came to rest wrt the mug. When you pulled the mug to your lips the near edge of the beer had it's radius reduced by a greater percentage than the far edge and so the beer started spinning clockwise in your (Northern hemisphere) frame of reference (viewed from above). The folks passed out on the floor looking up (Southern hemisphere types) viewed the beer as spinning more counterclockwise and the equatorial types laying on their sides saw the beer as beginning to tumble. Of course these forces are too small to measure unless you've had a few beers to begin with. So what is the sound of an Ecuadorian keg emptying ? -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 19:54:12 -0000 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: High FG in Strong Lager Jeff Renner writes ... >Steve Jones <stjones at eastman.com> writes [...] >>My mash schedule was a protein rest for 15 minutes at 130F, a 45 minute rest >>at 140F, then a 15 minute rest at 158F before mashing out, which was all >>within his recommended mash schedule. >I used to brew lagers at this schedule >and also ended up with similarly high FGs. Then when MCAB2 had a >tour of the Anheuser-Busch pilot brewery and I had a chance to pick >the brain of the A/B brewer, I switched the 140 rest to 145-146 (with >or without a previous rest), which I think was the A/B rest, and have >consistently gotten far better attenuation. I rest 30-45 minutes at >145-146 and 158-160 each. I've always been a fan of controlling time at rests rather than attempting hit strike temperatures with magical accuracy. I might feel differently if I was using a RIMS however. I think the 50/60/70 schedule is in need of some tinkering and tho' think a rest around 58C-60C does a nice job of reducing haze potential it's a very slow way to get attenuation esp if using munich or a lot of adjunct starch. 62C-63C(143F-145F) is my preference for a faster conversion for well attenuated beers. You can also rest at the supposed beta-amylase optima around 65C/149F, but lower temps are safer/slower. A 170F/72C upper rest might be a notch better too. >Wish George[Fix] was around to discuss this. Wonder if he got high >attenuation with his schedule. He did (it's in one of his books) and I have also, but not I think with a high level of caramel/munich etc I think. - ---------- Marc Sedam ... who has posted tons of great stuff recents adds a note I can't agree with. >It would be even easier to grind up a Beano tablet >and add it to the fermenter. Beano is a galctosidase enzyme and I suspect will have little effect on wort dextrins. Not so Marc ? Alpha-amylase would work, but there is no control - once added it may overattenuate. Still it's the only repair likely to work. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 20:42:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: Oh Phil ... see what you started ... (fwd) Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Steve Alexander unwittingly feeds the fire with... > To understand coriolis consider last years office party. > You may recall sitting in an office chair spinning > counterclockwise (as viewed from above) with a mug of beer > at arms lengths. You were spinning so long that the beer > came to rest wrt the mug. When you pulled the mug to your > lips the near edge of the beer had it's radius reduced by a > greater percentage than the far edge and so the beer started > spinning clockwise in your (Northern hemisphere) frame of > reference (viewed from above). The folks passed out on the > floor looking up (Southern hemisphere types) viewed the beer > as spinning more counterclockwise and the equatorial types > laying on their sides saw the beer as beginning to tumble. Ah! I see! What you are saying is that being an Australian is similar to being passed out on the floor! That certainly explains many things... Sorry - couldn't resist ;^) - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "I don't want a pickle. I just wanna ride on my motorsickle" - Arlo Guthrie Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/22/02, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96