HOMEBREW Digest #4028 Fri 30 August 2002

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  Home Brew Clubs in Alaska ("John & Joy Vaughn")
  Re: Covering up Bad Weld (John Palmer)
  Re: Running beer lines (Kent Fletcher)
  re: oxygen ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Coriolis affected sounds and other things that go "phhhht" in the night. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Re: Removing a Sankey tap (Jeff Renner)
  Scrounging Success, Removing a Tap,and Oxygen ("Bill Lucas")
  RE: building the brewery stand (Andrew Barnes)
  oxygen tank fitting ("Micah Millspaw")
  Re: CAP bug... (Jeff Renner)
  re: removing a sankey tap ("Henry St.Pierre")
  First Post/Alt Beer (Philly Brewing)
  Whatever happened to ... (Danny Breidenbach)
  Re: Spelling of Shmoo and How it Relates to Brewing (Jeff Renner)
  Wit technique (Brian Lundeen)
  RE: mead insults & validity (dlake)
  RE: Cleaning CF Chiller ("David Houseman")
  Subject: RE: Newbie and new list member (John Sarette)
  Re: Removing a Sankey tap (Svlnroozls)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:19:11 -0800 From: "John & Joy Vaughn" <hogbrew at mtaonline.net> Subject: Home Brew Clubs in Alaska Greetings, I have just moved to Wasilla, Alaska and need (not just want) to find a local home brew club. Does anyone know if there is a local club here? Thanks in advance. John Vaughn Wasilla, AK [2938, 320] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 22:22:24 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at altrionet.com> Subject: Re: Covering up Bad Weld Gilbert asked how to cover up a weld on his keg that was made with (what I understand to be) non-stainless steel welding filler metal. I am not clear on what method was used to make the weld (MIG, TIG or Arc). John S. replied with a comment on a potential health hazard from the non-stainless rod, but I can tell you (AWS Certified Welding Inspector 1995) that rod for carbon steel welding will definitely not contain cadmium or zinc, as they are much more toxic in the vapor form that will occur during welding. So, IF the welder used carbon steel welding rod, then Gilbert's biggest problem is corrosion. Depending on the amount of mixing that occurred during the weld, the entire weldment is most likely un-stainless steel now, and will suffer from galvanic corrosion in relation to the rest of the stainless steel around it. You can try grinding that area out, but like I said, you may have to grind out anywhere the filler metal touched, which will enlarge your hole. Gil asked a good question, can he cover the weld with silver solder to protect it. That just might work. You will need to scour the weldment thoroughly and flux it well and persevere in the application of solder, but if you can succeed in covering that area with silver solder (home plumbing solder) then it should prevent corrosion. So you have two options: 1. Grind it out or 2. Cover it up. Good Luck! John Palmer john at howtobrew.com www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer www.howtobrew.com - the free online book of homebrewing Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 22:32:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Running beer lines Alan McKay asked about: >I want to keep my keg fridge in the basement and run >lines up to the kitchen counter (about 20 feet). >Would this work? Run a loop of PVC (2") from the keg >fridge along the basement ceiling and then up through >the floor under the counter. Basically there and >back. Insulate the outside of it and run the beer >lines through it. Use a computer fan to circulate >cold air from the beer fridge. If it is really 20 feet there and 20 feet back, there's no way that a computer fan will work. There's far too much friction loss in all that pipe plus the beer line(s). You would need a centrifugal (squirrel cage) blower, this is the way that long draw air shfts are set up in bars and restaurants. Grainger sells several suitable blowers, such as #4C441, for about $40-$45 (same blower that Rapids Equipmentsells). See: http://rapidswholesale.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv? Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RWOCAS&Category_Code=BELDR They'll move air against .6" wc static pressure, and run on 115 v at half an amp. Fairly easy to hook up to either 2" or 3" PVC. 3" would be better for that length of run, 2" would work for about 25 - 30 feet total. Kent Fletcher (who wishes he had a basement, and thinks about digging one under the den) Brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 07:03:35 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: oxygen Himsbrew asks: "A while back someone suggested using a oxygen tank from home depot(the desposable kind), I picked one up ,but my question is :what do you usee for a nozzle, the guy at the store suggestec I use the one from my propane torch(also left hand thread), I tried but it doesn't seem to fit. Can I pick up some plumbing fitting?or does it need to be one designed specifically for an o2 tank?" Liquid Bread makes a product called the Oxynator which is a regulator valve for these small O2 cylinders. (NAYYY) The price seems a bit expensive but includes regulator, tank & diffusing stone. You can buy the replacement tanks at your local hardware or home warehouse store. You can probably find the Oxynator at your favorite local homebrew shop or web supplier. If not, their website is http://www.liquidbread.com/ When you put the oxygen diffusing stone into your fermenter, it tends to rise to the top. Some stones are now available that are on the end of a stainless rod - or you can just mount the one that comes with the kit on the end of a piece of plastic tubing cut from an old racking cane. Just heat the cane a bit to get the end over the stone. Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 14:39:08 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: Coriolis affected sounds and other things that go "phhhht" in the night. Since birthing this most amazing topic that has now had the brewing world all "abuzz", (both professional and amateur) Australian homebrewer, pilot, malt salesmen, and turtle abuser Phil Yates has called for data points regarding latitudinal effects, bi-directionally from the equator, upon keg emptying sounds. Living at a mere 60 degrees North of the equator, it was incumbent that I do some further research. The absolute furthest brewery from the equator on the planet, lies in what is often termed "Nordic Paris" or "Tromsoe". They produce "Mack" beer (not trucks, thank you). A drive to the nearest airport, and three plane flights later, I arrived there. By the time I took a taxi from the airport through a catacomb of tunnels that are blasted through solid rock (curves and intersections underground.?... Is this really necessary?.... or are the Norwegians just showing off their tunnel technology ?), dumped my bags in the hotel and hit the streets, it was 2:30 AM. Alas, the Arctic sky still held that eternal summer twilight and I managed to find a pub (just some sort of sixth sense, I guess). They closed at three; so I judiciously said: "I'll have one a' those, and one a' those. one a' those, and er....I guess two a' those." I distinctly heard a "phhhht" sound towards the end, showing that the coriolis effect apparently does apply to tap acoustics. ......or maybe it was just the sound of my forehead slapping into my own collection of drool on the bar. Now this place is just under SEVENTY degrees north of the equator. Undaunted, and thirsting for more than just further information, I flew next to "Lakselv", and then motored 2 hours from there... not to Nordkap ( the most northerly point in Europe), but just to the side of it. A place called "Havoesund", where you better like cod, 'cuz there's not much else there. There does not grow a stick of wood anywhere near this place, and what comes in on the fishing boats is what you get (you know; sort of like "crabs"... they come in on the captain's "dinghy") Now I am at SEVENTY ONE degrees, and still "phhhht". I think Mr. Yates has his course lain clearly before him. Just take a look at your map, and see how far into Antarctica you have to go to get 71 degrees SOUTH of the equator!!! We need these data points, Phil. Oh, yes. Should you take up the challenge, I'd suggest you leave the Bichon Frisse's at home. Their reluctance at relieving themselves "outdoors" will make for one stinky tent...... and surely nothing hygenically fit for continued use as a turtle sanatorium. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:21:52 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Removing a Sankey tap I see I guessed wrong regarding Drew Hough <brew at kallnet.com>'s question about a Sankey tap. Here's the deal, Drew. A Sankey keg is sealed by a large steel ball (~1 inch) that is held against a gasket by a strong spring. The beer is going to stay in the keg until the ball is depressed. The tap is put on and taken off in two steps. When tapping a Sankey, you first put the tap on the keg and give it a quarter turn clockwise. That merely installs the tap but doesn't open the keg valve. The by either turning the collar on the tap or lifting a lever, you depress the ball, allowing beer to flow. To remove the tap, first turn the collar or lower the lever, allowing the ball to seal, then turn the tap counter clockwise. If you forget the first step (I have), you might spray a little beer. When you remove the tap there will be a little beer on the top of the ball valve. I sop this up with a paper towel and spray a little iodophore on the valve. There will be some beer in the tap and lines, but there is a little "pea" in the tap that keeps it from flowing back out. The line will have beer in it - I just drain it out the end by holding the tap up and opening the faucet. The pressure in the gas line shouldn't be a problem, but you could relieve it with the relief valve that is on the side of the tap. I generally boil the tap every once in a while, but usually just flush it with sanitizer. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 10:10:15 -0400 From: "Bill Lucas" <Homebrew42 at hotmail.com> Subject: Scrounging Success, Removing a Tap,and Oxygen Hi again all, First I wanted to say thanks for all the input regarding places to find stuff that can be used in building a brewing rig. I have been on the look out and have been surprised at how easily aquired somethings are... So far I ran across some new corny kegs some stainless steel screen and a stainless steel canister that might make a nice hop back. I was also able to dig up some nice angled steel that is now a surprisingly sturdy "frame" that sits on my propane burner and helps stabilize my new Sankey Keg Boiling kettle. Still looking for good stuff to make a Mash tun out of... I am going to go look a little more this weekend. I also wanted to start doing some contributing (warning: I am still wet behind the ears so all should consider that when taking anything resembling advise) anyway Here goes. Drew Hough asked about removing a Sankey tap. While lots of people I am sure will resapond to this one I can at least answer this one since I have "some" practice in this area. Usually to untap the keg one only needs to twist and lift as quickly as possible. The ball that is depressed to allow the beer to dispense will rise annd stop the flow of beer. There was only one time when I saw a tavern head that had some type of stop or saftey in place. This had a little lever that needed to be depressed while turning the head to remove it. However once you can turn the tap you should be able to get it off with little to no spillage. Himsbrew at aol.com asked about oxygen regulators which is something I have been toying with the Idea of getting... I have a couple of links to such products, but I am waiting to hear if there are any more creative ideas that might be just as easy. I was just a little hesitant to start messing around with homemade equipment and compressed oxygen. So I found these Items. I can't attest to the quality or function of any of these so comments welcome ( I guess there was a question in here after all). There's this one from BrewTek it doesn't come with a bottle which is good in this case. http://www.brewtek.com/aerator.html Look down the page a little. At BrewOrganic they have one almost at the bottom of this page... http://www.breworganic.com/Catalog/Fermenting%20Equipment.htm More Beer has their products for ths at http://www.morebeer.com/catalog.php3?secID=fermequip Here is their complete system but you can get it without the oxygen tank as well http://www.morebeer.com/index.html?page=detail.php3&pid=FE375 Hope that helps somewhat Have fun brewing State College PA, [325.7, 106.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 07:42:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Andrew Barnes <andnan at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: building the brewery stand In designing my stand, there two design goals. 1. The ability to disassemble the stand for easy transportation 2. A modular design for easy expansion/modification. Two basic components were designed, a stand base and stand legs. Each tier of the stand base is identical, and many of the stand leg portions were made identical. At first, I made a 1 tier, and I am just completing the second tier. The third tier will be added at a later date when I feel I need to do it. I have a Solid Works model of the stand I can send you if you like. ===== Andrew Barnes P.Eng andnan at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 10:17:00 -0500 From: "Micah Millspaw" <MMillspa at silganmfg.com> Subject: oxygen tank fitting Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:46:23 EDT >From: Himsbrew at aol.com >Subject: oxygen >A while back someone suggested using a oxygen tank >from home depot(the desposable kind), I picked one >up ,but my question is :what do you usee for a nozzle, >the guy at the store suggestec I use the one from my >propane torch(also left hand thread), I tried but it doesn't >seem to fit. Can I pick up some plumbing fitting?or does >it need to be one designed specifically for an o2 tank? The propane tank fitting has right hand threads the oxygen has left hand threads. You should be able to buy the oxygen fitting at home depot, unfortunately you will have to buy an entire torch kit to get it. They sell the seem to only sell the propane/MAPP gas and oxygen torches as combos. I was too cheap to buy the whole rig, so I just used an old propane torch end as an example and made a fitting just like it, but with left hand threads, to use with the oxygen. It has worked for 10-12 years so far. Used semi hard brass for the fitting. Cost hour or so of time, no $. Micah Millspaw - brewer at large Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 11:21:04 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: CAP bug... Mark Linton <cryptcl at earthlink.net> writes: >Well, like some others around here, Jeff Renner's article on brewing a >Classic American Pilsner has got me curious >(http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue3.5/renner.html), and >I'm planning on brewing one of these next. Glad to hear it. It's a great beer. It was the first of four beers to run out at my daughter's wedding last week. While I still stand behind that article, it is six years out of date. That is to say, I've done a lot more brewing and reading since then, which I summarized in my Zymurgy article of a two years ago (Sept/Oct 2000). I've also posted some updates here. I think the Zymurgy article is pretty good and recommend it. The issue is available from AHA and at some HB stores. Basically, I now do a mash-in at 145F or so, then add the cereal mash after 30-45 minutes to boost to 158F, then after another 30-45 minutes boost to 170 for mashout. For flakes, I recommend either these steps or a single rest at a bit below 150F. I also have eliminated the Munich malt I used in the first few brews, and now aim for a higher bitterness (mid-upper 30s) and use first wort hopping. >I'm probably going to skip the two step mash at 140 and 158F, and do a >single rest at around 150-ish F and add a 1/2 pound of a light >crystal. Cluster for bittering, and Sterling for flavor/aroma (it's >described to have characteristics similar to a blend of Hallertauer and >Saaz). Target IBU = 27 or thereabouts. The single step should work fine - below 150 for a more attenuated, crisper beer, above 150 for a fuller, less attenuated one. I've come to prefer the former but still appreciate the latter. I think crystal is out of place for any pilsner including a CAP. Of course, it's your beer, but if you are looking for more maltiness, Vienna or Munich would be a better choice. The hops choices are good. >Okay, now which yeast to use? It seems like there would be three >legitimate options: > >White Labs WLP840 American Lager Yeast (Attenuation = 75-80%) >Wyeast 2035 American Lager Yeast (Att. 73-77%) >Wyeast 2272 North American Lager Yeast (Att. 70-76%) > >Has anyone used any of these three yeasts? Would all be suitable, or is >one a better historical choice than another? I really like the clean German yeasts such as YCKCo Ayinger or Weihenstephan 34/70, sold as WLP830, but was also very happy with the American lager yeast I used early on, reputedly the August Schell (New Ulm) strain. I think this is the same as Wyeast 2035, even though it's described explicitly as not being a pilsner strain. It's also described as a diacetyl producer but I got none. 2272 is the old Christian Schmidt strain and should be an authentic one. A friend brewed a CAP with the Anheuser Busch strain and got high diacetyl, so that yeast may require some care in that regard. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 11:41:05 -0400 From: "Henry St.Pierre" <hankstar at mhonline.net> Subject: re: removing a sankey tap Terrified Drew writes: > > I want to clean the line as I would with the Cornies, but I am terrified of > what would happen if I remove the tap and I want to avert a mess. The keg > is under CO2 pressure and the beer line contains beer up to the faucet > (obviously). Drew, You must learn to confront your terror. Just go ahead and remove the tap. If you have the type that turns, just turn and lift off. If you have the lever type, just lift the lever and remove. Why do you want to clean the line? Unless the keg is going to take a very long time to empty (couple of months), I wouldn't bother until it kicked. Having been a part-time bartender off and on for many years I've tapped a keg or two. Hank Somewhere in the Catskills of NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:15:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Philly Brewing <philly_brewing at yahoo.com> Subject: First Post/Alt Beer Hi, This is my first post tp HBD. I've been brewing extracts for about a year now. Right now I have an Alt fermenting at about 70-75F. (That's the best I can do in my apartment in the summer.) I'm using Wyeast 2112 because that seems to be the most heat tolerant. I have two questions. Did I choose the correct yeast and would the Alt benefit from racking it to a carboy and letting it age a few weeks before botteling? Thanks. Mike Philadelphia, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 12:46:38 -0500 From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> Subject: Whatever happened to ... What happened to Al K? And what about Father Barleywine? - --Danny B. in West Lafayette, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 13:45:28 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Spelling of Shmoo and How it Relates to Brewing A little more digression (but don't forget the tie to brewing - Kickapoo Joy Juice http://www.lilabner.com/kickapoo.html "A liquor of such stupefying potency that the hardiest citizens of Dogpatch, after the first burning sip, rose into the air, stiff as frozen codfish.") "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> wrote >Joe Bsxcrtkz ... I'm not sure if I spelled Joe's last name >correctly, but I do remember that it didn't have any vowels in it. Actually, it's Joe Btfsplk >( Al was a "little to the right of Attila the Hun") I don't think it's quite as easy as that. Growing up poor and coming of age in the depression, he started out pretty liberal and made fun of big business (General Bullmoose), political machines (Senator Phogbound), and lots of other icons, but he rather famously became more conservative as he grew older. his pro-Viet Nam war activities and put-downs of campus activists were a disappointment to many of his fans, including me. By the mid to late sixties, he had lost its fun and innocence as Capp become conservative and cranky. The official Li'l Abner website http://www.lilabner.com/cappbio.html says, "Capp's celebrity admirers ranged from actor/director Charlie Chaplin, writer John Updike and economist John Kenneth Galbraith. Author John Steinbeck was not only a fan, in fact, he called Capp 'the best writer in the world.'" Those were pretty left-wing folks. Al Capp, Liberalism, and Vermont http://www.inu.org/bieyi/cruises/liberal.htm has a good discussion of Capp's politics and quotes him on the subject. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://www.wikipedia.com/wiki/Al_Capp says "By the '60s, Capp's politics had swung from ultra-liberal to ultra-conservative, and he began spoofing counterculture icons instead of big business types. He became a popular speaker on college campuses during the era, attacking anti-war protestors and demonstrators." Now back to brewing. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 15:56:47 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: Wit technique Someone mentioned reading a Zymurgy article (something I am as yet unable to do in spite of having joined the AHA many weeks ago) about Wit brewing that recommended tossing in some raw wheat flour into the boil. Any of our resident pundits care to comment on this technique? Cheers Brian Lundeen Soon to be brewing a Wit at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 18:06:17 -0400 From: dlake at gdi.net Subject: RE: mead insults & validity CT Davis wrote: >The mead question is perfectly valid on this >forum, and indeed, I'm interested in the answers >myself, but comments like yours are unwelcome and >offensive. Not so fast there CT. Is "mead" really a valid topic on a homebrewer forum? If so, why? And for that matter, what about cider? Neither falls within the distinction of brewing. One could argue that they both seem to be subjects for the homewinemakers digest. And how did meads and ciders get included on BJCP styles. Why isn't grapefruit wine on the list? It makes no sense. Don Lake Orlando, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 17:30:16 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Cleaning CF Chiller I noticed in today's HBD that a line of text from my previous posting was missing. The correct posting is below: "Even though this obstruction was a bug's nest of some kind (yes, I admit I left my chiller outside for a month or so without being used)..." A simple solution to prevent this problem is to buy two solid rubber stoppers (ACE/True Value Hardware) and with an appropriate size standard drill bit, drill a hole 1/2 way through the stopper. These form convenient boiling water that I use to clean/sanitize the CFC prior to and after each use and just put them back on to keep ants, bees and dust out of the chiller. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 15:41:45 -0700 (PDT) From: John Sarette <j2saret at yahoo.com> Subject: Subject: RE: Newbie and new list member As a new list memeber myself let me add my welcome to the digest, Tim. This is one of the most friendly and creative lists I have ever been on. I see that Bill Tobler is suggesting that you use rubbermaid coolers for mash and sparge with 5 gallon batches. I would like to suggest an alternative. Jack Schmidling has an excellent proceedure called Kettle Mashing in which you mash and then sparge in the same kettle. hbd.org/brewery/library/KettleARF.html I have just switched over to the system and it is compact, simple and efficient. It seems to me that kettle mashing would be a first step in all grain brewing and that the Lauter Tun should wait untill later. LJ Vitt suggests "Brewing the World Greatest Beers - Dave Miller, The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing - Charlie Papazian or Homebrewing Vol 1 - Al Koronas" as references to brew with your existing equipment. I have on read the first two books and of the two I would like to suggest starting with Dave Miller. He has just enough information to brew fine examples, as kit, partial mash and all grain, of classic beer styles. Charlie Papazian presents a lot more information but for me it was too much information and I ended up over complicating my understanding of brewing. Another good reference I am using is North American Clone Brews by Scott Russell. He has essential information on brewing plus a ton of receipes both as partial mash and all grain for popular (non mega swill) commercial beers. I am brewing two of them for my holiday beers this year. All the best John Sarette (at the wolf's nose, Lake Superior) ===== God is not on your side God does not take sides God is a pure fan of the game. Play hard. Play fair. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:20:04 EDT From: Svlnroozls at aol.com Subject: Re: Removing a Sankey tap Drew, I have been working with Sankeys almost daily for several years now, and I can tell you that it's a relatively foolproof system, though I've seen plenty of clueless folks make a mess of things. You may bery well have gottne your answer by now, but I'll just go ahead and weigh in with my practical knowledge of the subject in case you haven't. Firstly, you must never unscrew the line from the tavern head before the untapping the tavern head. Perhaps this is obvious, but I've seen folks get up close and personal with "Old Faceful, the Beer Geyser" this way. To untap it, you just pull the sankey handle out then up. Then to remove it, you twist it counter-clockwise about a quarter turn until the flange s out from under the two teeth in the keg fitting. The tavern head itself should have a check valve to prevent beer from leaking out of the line and an untapped Sankey head should not leak CO2 even if the pressure is still on. It's not a bad idea to turn off the pressure anyway. There also ought to be a flapper valve in the CO2 side to prevent the gas from going into the line from the keg (If beer happens to spritz into the gas line, it has to be cleaned out, which can be a pain.). Before you put the thing back on tap, just make sure the handle is in the "up" position, or you'll have to keep explaining to people how you really wet your pants. It goes on by doing the removal in reverse (duh!)...put it in place (flange on head going under teeth on keg), turn clockwise until it stops, pull handle out and push it down, then flow beer. This is probably more than you needed to know, but I felt like sharing. Happy drinking! C.T. L.A., CA In a message dated 8/28/02 9:11:45 PM, brew at kallnet.com writes: << Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:15:28 -0700 From: Drew Hough <brew at kallnet.com> Subject: Removing a Sankey tap This may sound like a silly question. At long last I feel comfortable describing myself as a confident and experienced homebrewer, and I am able to serve my homebrews with ease in Cornelius kegs. But I am embarrassed to admit I have very little experience dealing with commercial US beer kegs, and now one is on tap in our house. I want to clean the line as I would with the Cornies, but I am terrified of what would happen if I remove the tap and I want to avert a mess. The keg is under CO2 pressure and the beer line contains beer up to the faucet (obviously). I would imagine a commercial keg and/or the Sankey tap would have a check valve, a poppet or the like to facilitate easy removal, but this is not something I want to find out by trial and error. If a 15.5- gallon keg empties all over the floor, dirty beer lines will be the least of my worries. I have not been able to find this information anywhere on the Net. Although I could probably call any bar or self-respecting frat guy, I figured I would post my questions inwpublic forum for anyone else who might find the answer useful. So, please, what is the proper way to un-tap a full and pressurized keg? Do I need to bleed all of the internal pressure first (poor beer!), or is there a check valve to keep the beer and gas contained in the keg? What should I expect from the tap when removed? (For example, will some of the beer left in the line spill out of the tap? Will the residual pressure in the gas supply line (although closed) spray beer from under the tap everywhere?) Thanks in advance!>> Return to table of contents
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