HOMEBREW Digest #4038 Wed 11 September 2002

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  Any good brewpubs or Micros in Ontario? ("Gary Smith")
  Gump on Manchester/Manchester/Barleywine ("Rob Moline")
  Jethro Chiming in on Dave Kerr ("Rob Moline")
  Belgian Candi Sugar (Tom & Dee McConnell)
  Sanibel Brew Pub? (darrell.leavitt)
  Drum Heaters and Such ("Eric R. Theiner")
  Re: Dissolved Oxygen Research (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Yeast ABP (cont.) (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Serving from a Cornie with Beer Pump (Jeff Renner)
  Water adjustments? (Steven S)
  Predicting FG (David Passaretti)
  Open fermentation question ("Adam Wead")
  Dissolved Oxygen Research ("Sergi, Michael")
  Beer Music Site (=?iso-8859-1?q?Ryncd=20Gweyth?=)
  Barley Malt (Wayne Aldrich)
  Kap'n Saly's Dunkle (EFOUCH)
  RE: Straffe Hendrik ("Sven Pfitt")
  Moosehead vs Anything Moosey (Christopher Jon Poel)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 23:24:18 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at ameritech.net> Subject: Any good brewpubs or Micros in Ontario? How-d , Just got back & am heading out right away for Ontario. Any Brewpubs I might put on the agenda? Thanks, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 00:05:48 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Gump on Manchester/Manchester/Barleywine Gump on Manchester/Manchester/Barleywine While recent restrictions on speed of my cable modem have slowed me from 3.3 m down/1.9 up...to 1432 down/114 up are annoying...the biggest hass with cable modems must be that you have to schedule a week later to fix probs...... >From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> >Subject: Danstar Yeast >Recently had an opportunity to use one of these. >Noted the one I used (Manchester) was now made in >Denmark rather than Canada. One assumes the yeast >strain is the same. Is it?. All Danstar strains are dna fingerprinted, flavor profiled, performance parameter tested to match the originating strain. No matter the production site, if it is a Danstar yeast, you can count on it performing as expected. >From:"John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> >Subject: Danstar Manchester >Does anyone know why this has been discontinued? >I am rather upset, as I used to like Danstar London and they stopped making >it too. I generally prefer liquid yeast, but i like the manchester strain. >It has worked great in mild ales and porters/stouts. >I have a few hundred packs that are nearing or past their best before date >but i figure if in the fridge or freezer they should be good a couple years >(i can pitch several packs).. >John Alas, like John, I too have been annoyed by the news that Manchester was being deleted from the Danstar line, as I use it in the brewpub, and will have to adjust my practices to deal with the new reality. But, the simple fact of life is that any company accelerates production of those products that are highly sought after ....and closes production of those that lag behind. Sad...though...considering that in a brewing world slowly but surely recognizing that dry yeast has all of the positives (ease of use, consistency)...and none of the negatives of past dry yeast (inconsistency, infection, lack of vitality/viability).....that in the past year, half of the great dry yeasts have been withdrwn. But that's the fact. Good news is that new products are out there...waiting to go into production......and while I feel confident that they will eventually find their way to you, I won't even speculate .....been there, done that. >Subject: barleywine >Greetings, >I'm thinking about brewing a batch of barleywine, which I have never >before attempted. I'm interested to hear any opinions or advice about >other folks' barleywine experiences. In particular, I've heard different >opinions about using champagne yeast vs. beer yeast (or starting with beer >yeast and adding champagne yeast later), and about splitting a 5-gal batch >into two 5-gal buckets during the explosive primary fermentation stage to >avoid losing wort through the blowoff tube. Any thoughts about these or >other issues? Also--please send recipes! (I can do a partial mash or all >extract batch of high OG beer, like b-wine, with my current setup). >Thanks! >Chris Ivey >Champaign, IL Chris, 2 suggestions.... 1) Nottingham dry yeast by Danstar...fabulous yeast for Barleywines..... 2) FermCap by J.W. Siebel....available through Crosby & Baker...1-800-FLA-MALT Nottingham rocks...and subsequent additions of champagne yeast add little to the brew.... FermCap will save your life/marriage/carpet.... Gump Rob Moline Lallemand 515-282-2739 CABCO 515-450-0243 cell "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.386 / Virus Database: 218 - Release Date: 9/9/2002 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 00:36:33 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Jethro Chiming in on Dave Kerr Jethro Chiming in on Dave Kerr Dave is right on all fronts...and his recipe is as good as any that gets the sugars out there....He should be a preacher for Bonham's 'No Sparge' regimen.... Where he hits the heights are his advice on yeast....advocating healthy starter as is found in a new/fresh yeast cake from a lesser brew...and ample oxygenation...this alone will make so much difference....."CRITICAL POINT" for a high grav brew.....and his advice for oxygenation follows my tutors, who suggest O2 from the 14th through 24th..... Brewers using 5 gram sachets are well advised to use several.....Look for upcoming updtaes on sachet size from Lallemand. Again, investigate FermCap...god's gift.....and I advocate force carbing ... Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" >From: Dave Kerr <dave_kerr2001 at yahoo.com> .Subject: Re: barleywine >Jethro may chime in here, as his bw's have won many >awards, but here's my two cents: >I like to use 85% pale/5% torrified wheat/10% crystal >or Munich malt, sparge sparingly, shoot for OG around >1.100 or so, and hop the bejeezus out it with any/all >of the 4 C's (upwards of 100 IBU, as Rogue hops their >Old Crustacean). Try pitching onto the yeast cake >from a batch of APA or some such, using Nottingham or .Chico yeast, and oxygenate often for the first 12 >hours of the ferment. I'll sometimes toss an actively >fermenting 2 quart starter after a few days in the >primary. Open fermentation has worked well for me, >too. I would suggest watching the temperature pretty >carefully, as violent fermentations can throw off .quite a bit of heat. I rack from the primary after >about 2 weeks, rack again after a month or 2, bottle .after another 2 months. Add fresh yeast when you bottle. - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.386 / Virus Database: 218 - Release Date: 9/9/2002 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 01:42:25 -0600 From: Tom & Dee McConnell <tdmc at bigfoot.com> Subject: Belgian Candi Sugar Graham Sanders has an article on making your own Belg candi sugar. Go to http://www.hosted.com.au/~craftbrewer/index.html and click on Making Your Own Belgian Candy Sugar by Graham Sanders under the "Grains & Sugars" section. Tom & Dee McConnell (tdmc at bigfoot dot com dot no-spam) Albuquerque NM 87111 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:14:34 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Sanibel Brew Pub? A recent trip to the Sanibel Brewbub found that it was closed...anyone in the southern Florida area know what happened to the Sanibel Brewpub? Private message is probably best. .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 15:16:27 -0400 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <rickdude02 at earthlink.net> Subject: Drum Heaters and Such Paul Mahoney asks about using drum heaters as a method for heating mash drums, er, tuns. I gotta say that I don't think their thermostats are sensitive enough, but that can be rectified by using a better thermostat and hooking it up to the heater in the same manner one would put a more sensitive thermostat on a fridge. I'm sure they can tell you if the drums are food grade, too, so I'd say you're set for a 50 gallon mash system (cool!). I've seen the Global Industrial catalog a few times and my thoughts of fitting such neat gadgets and stuff into my brewing system has kept me occupied at times, too. Lastly, Paul, please (if you're a member) say "hey" to new Star City Brewers member Joe White. We miss him at our club severely. Rick Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:12:52 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Dissolved Oxygen Research Phil Wilcox relayed for his Uncle Phil DeVore: >I did boil some water and after it cooled to about 100 degrees F >measured the dissolved oxygen. It was 0.82 ppm, which is about 8% of >normal saturation. I feel that at the boiling point there was no oxygen >left in solution. The conclusion is that the water cools, is picks up >oxygen. It is doubtful, though, that the oxygen would return to >saturation levels without considerable agitation or sparging with pure >oxygen. Phil - how about canning a mason jar pint or quart of boiling water in a water bath. Then, after it is cooled, open it and immediately take the DO. This should read virtually zero, I would guess. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:32:19 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Yeast ABP (cont.) Rick Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> of Murrayville, GA needs info on Ayinger yeast. If that's YCKC's Ayinger, it was hand carried to Ann Arbor from Germany by Herr Durst maybe five years ago or more for Dan McConnell, owner of YCKC. Durst was here for a tour of US breweries and trade shows to drum up business with GW Kent's owner Randy Reichwage. It has been shared as far as Australia, where it is legendarily popular with homebrewers. Not sure how it got there. The yeast came from a brewery in Aying in Bavaria, but I can't say that it is THE Ayinger brewery or not. There are several in that town, I believe. It is a great lager yeast. It has typical lager yeast physical fermentation characteristics, and seems to me to produce a balance between malt and hops. I participated in a blind taste test of five or six one gallon pilsner batches that Arbor Brewing Co (an Ann Arbor brewpub, and my "local") produced. They wanted to choose a better lager yeast than the one they were using. Five or six one gallon pilsner worts were fermented with different yeasts at 50F, including probably 34/70, Anchor, A/B, Ayinger, and not sure what else, then lagered at 50F. ABC's two owners, the brewer, Dan and I were on the panel. The Ayinger was the unanimous first choice. I thought it blew the others out of the water. It was clean but not sterile tasting, and allowed the malt and hops to come thru. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:03:08 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Serving from a Cornie with Beer Pump Mark Vernon <mark.vernon at pioneer.com> of Des Moines writes >My question >is how do you hook the Beer Pump up to the cornie? Do you use a standard QD >on the cornie and then step up the hose size to connect to the Beer Pump? or >do you fit a different fitting on the cornie post? I was able to use a thick walled tubing that both fit over the large barb on the beer engine without a clamp, and, with a clamp, sealed on the smaller corny beer-out barb. Looks like 1/4" ID or maybe 5/16". BTW, my beers taste better without the sparkler on the spout. In England, sparklers are used in the north but CAMRA types disapprove of them for the southern beers. For a pair of older beer engines (1930's, heavy brass, neat!) that I occasionally use at a private club, I have to step up using larger diameter hose over a short section of smaller hose on the corny barb. These engines have small brass plates over the faucets - one reads "mild" and the other "bitter." They are mounted permanently on an old 25 foot bar with in the second story of an old building in downtown Ann Arbor. I have had a mild and bitter on the appropriate pump for couple of parties and it's great fun. People who know nothing about real ale are intrigued and converted. It's also nice because low alcohol real ale keeps the crowd convivial without becoming boisterous. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:49:19 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Water adjustments? With my brewing season coming up i've been looking at improving my methods. I've determined that i need to monitor ph more closely and water quality. Does anyone in the Atlanta, GA area (specifically Gwinnett County) have the latest water quality analysis handy? I cant find it online and calls to the county is giving me the run around. I found a survey posted from 1997 and from what I know it hasnt changed much. Apparently our water is almost a dead on clone of Pilsen's. What effect does a water filter, specifically the Brita faucet model, have on the water chemistry besides removing clorine? Steven St.Laurent 403forbidden.net [580.2,181.4] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:56:05 -0700 (PDT) From: David Passaretti <dpassaretti at yahoo.com> Subject: Predicting FG I have been all grain brewing (10-12 gal) for a while and can usually hit my OG within a point or two. What I can not seem to do is predicted my FG with any accuracy. I know that there are a lot of variables icluding mash temp, grain bill, and yeast strain. How does everyone else do it, or do you just guess like I do? Thanks for any input David Passaretti Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:09:29 -0600 From: "Adam Wead" <a_wead at hotmail.com> Subject: Open fermentation question Dear HBD: Forgive a stupid question, but, does open fermentation really mean "open?" As in, keep the the lid off your fermentation bucket? What about contamination? I know some style are more suited to open vs. closed fermentation. What are the advantages/disadvantages? thanks in advance, Adam Wead (Bloomington, IN) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:11:01 -0400 From: "Sergi, Michael" <Michael.Sergi at us.rhodia.com> Subject: Dissolved Oxygen Research Phil, I hope I can assist in clarifying what your dissolved oxygen data shows. The change in amount of oxygen dissolved in water during your test is in no way related to the scrubbing action of the nitrogen and its displacement of oxygen limiting concentration. There are two factors at work here equilibrium and mass transfer. The first, equilibrium, tells you the maximum amount of oxygen that will go into solution (for room temperature water ~10 ppm, which you noted). The second, mass transfer, tells how long it will take the oxygen to be added to the water. I plotted your O2 ppm vs. air added data. The plot shows the expected mass transfer behavior. The speed at which O2 is absorbed is related to a driving force. Things like to move from high to low concentration, this is the driving force. Movement is from the high O2 concentration air to the low O2 concentration water. At the beginning of the run the oxygen is absorbed fast (high driving force) but as the water gets closer to its maximum O2 concentration (low driving force) the O2 uptake slows and it takes longer and longer for more O2 to dissolve. This is what you witnessed. So as not to overcomplicate the list e-mail me direct for further information. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:12:45 +0100 (BST) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Ryncd=20Gweyth?= <bluebelz2002 at yahoo.co.uk> Subject: Beer Music Site I have just stumbled on a lovely web site there in the US. This club has beer songs, as well as traditional ditties, on most of their pages. If their beer festivals are as much fun as the site, they are lucky ducks. Hope you all enjoy if you have not seen it. http://www.sagecat.com/psb.htm Ryn Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 21:59:42 +0200 From: aldrich4 at t-online.de (Wayne Aldrich) Subject: Barley Malt I recently purchased 1kg of barley malt from a supplier in Belgium. I bought it to add color and body to an American Brown Ale. The bag is labeled CARA-CRYSTAL (120 EBC). I know the EBC is the European colour measurement in this case about 65 Lovibond. But what the heck is CARA-CRYSTAL? Should I use it like an American crystal malt? I also purchased 1 kg each of Amber malt L-25 and Aroma malt L-70. I was planning to add these to a base Pale Ale malt to clone Pete's Wicked Ale. I think these 3 special malts will make up no more than 25 percent of my malt bill. Any thoughts? Wayne Aldrich Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:17:00 -0400 From: EFOUCH at steelcase.com Subject: Kap'n Saly's Dunkle "And remember: my results are SO good that Eric Fouch took one sip of my dunkel, wept, and declared he would never brew again. And he hasn't, to this day!" Completely, totally, almost entirely slanderous. It was merely coinky-dinky that I was watching Dr. Phil on Oprah when I tried Mikey's Dunkel. And I almost brewed this last weekend. Eric (searching for a new name for his new,all electric 15 gallon barn brewery) Fouch "Prediction is extremely difficult. Especially about the future." - Niels Bohr Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 21:04:19 -0400 From: "Sven Pfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Straffe Hendrik Mail keeps bouncing. I'll try again. As previously posted, I found Straffe Hendrik at the local purveyor of better brews the day after reading about the query on culturing yeast from it. My experience seems to be a bit different from others who have posted. I found both the blonde and Brown in appx 22oz bottles, with corks. I prefer blonds, so I picked up a bottle of it. Chilled overnight and had the bottle the next evening. I had a canned starter ready along with an air lock and the appropriate sanatization tools. Poured the beer into two glasses (leaving about three oz in the bottom), flamed the lip, flamed the lip of the starter, poured starter in bottle and installed a sanatized air lock. Read cork, 1998! Well puke! Beer will probably be good any way. Oh, well. Probably won't ferment. Dreges look pretty nasty! Lots of loose sediment, unlike say, SNPA with yeast clinging to the bottom so tightly you almost have to scrape it off. Beer is nice. Tastes like a doubbel (no marking as to what alcohol content is, no specifics on style other than "Straffe Hendrik". I know from the store where it is sold that it has to be at least 6% or it wouldn't be there. The brown was marked "Straffe Hendrik Brown". I'll pick up a bottle of it next. Any way, the color is medium straw. Moderate head which dissipates quickly leaving a ring of foam around the glass. Aroma is slightly fruity with hints of malt, but little or no hops. Flavor is slightly sweet, but thin bodied with a dry finish. This may be due to the age in the bottle (if one can go by the cork) and being bottle conditioned. Very nice beer. I'll buy another when I get the Brown. As to the yeast...... After finishing off the beer I checked on it (yea, kind of early huh) and the air lock was showing positive pressure which I assumed was due to the bottle warming up from refrigerator temp to room temp. Off to bed. Next morning, bubbles! That evening I pitched the contents into a .5L starter and plopped it on the stir plate. Next day, lots of foam in the starter. Last night I put the starter in the fridge to drop the yeast(?), and this morning was rewarded with a nice donut of white yeast in the bottom of the flask, covered with a layer of brown sediment. So...... YES! you can culture the yeast from Straffe Hendrik. Now I guess I need to come up with a recipe for it. Probably 1.064ish OG, mostly FB Pilsen malt with a touch of munich. Single step infusion at 152F. modist hop with SG, or EKG bittering and maybe a bit of Saaz FW or at 20 min. no knock out hops. Bottle condition of course. By the way, this is a potential way of ranching yeast. If you bottle condition your beer, you can reculture it later for another batch. Or, share it with others. Sneaky, eh? rev Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:29:27 +0900 From: Christopher Jon Poel <cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp> Subject: Moosehead vs Anything Moosey Got this off of the Real Beer site, and as a guy who loves good beer, it kind of bothered me. So I contacted some of the people involved, and got several replies, which I'll be happy to post if there's interest. If you have friends (or enemies) who like beer, pass this on to them, asking them to register their protest with Moosehead <info at mooseheadbeer.com> or a show of support to the breweries involved in the ongoing battle by Moosehead over the right to use the word "moose" as it relates to beer: Grand Teton <beermail at GrandTetonBrewing.com>; Big Sky <info at bigskybrew.com>; Moose Jaw <info at moosejawbrewpub.com>. Thanks, Chris Poel P.S. There have been active discussions on two other boards about this problem -- check them out if you're interested. Northern Brewer Forum http://forum.northernbrewer.com/cgi-bin/ ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=002770 Homebrew Adventures Forum http://forums.homebrew.com/ikonboard. cgi?s=3d6d6aa3a781ffff;act=ST;f=2;t=264;st=0 Note: For both these links to work, you have to remove the return after the first line and then past the link into your browser. Sorry. ========== So long, Moose Juice Moosehead wins trademark battle with Grand Teton Brewing AUG 20, 2002 - Moosehead Brewers, Ltd., of Canada has won its five-year trademark battle with an Idaho brewery, and Grand Teton Brewing Co. will discontinue making Moose Juice Stout. Grand Teton, formerly Otto Brothers Brewing, applied for the trademark in 1991 and received it in 1992. The U.S. Trademark Appeals Board canceled the trademark based on Mooshead's claim to the word "Moose" worldwide. "I never dreamt it was possible," said Charlie Otto, founder of Otto Brothers and Grand Teton. "I believed that if you were issue a U.S. Trademark it was yours. We built our company on the assumption that once a mark was issued you had the freedom to go ahead to grow the brand." "Attempting to understand why Moosehead would think that our regional Stout competes with their Canadian Lager is a mystery to me. We have never compared ourselves to them in any way. We are a true, handcrafted regional microbrewer. We're the little guys being shut down by a monster-sized corporation. It makes no sense and I wonder, who's next?" Grand Teton will discontinue production the stout, which won a silver medal at the 2000 Great American Beer Festival. A brewery press release state that, "Changing the name is not an option to them at this point." Sweetgrass IPA was introduced to the market in the spring of 2002 and a new ESB will hit the shelves later this year. (You can view the original story at: http://www.realbeer.com/news/articles/news-001756.html) ========== Return to table of contents
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