HOMEBREW Digest #4084 Mon 04 November 2002

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  Maturex/Theakstons ("A. J. delange")
  Ringwood yeast and Middle Ages Brewery ("Pete Calinski")
  Min / Max time for starters ("Michael O'Donnell")
  Too much wort aeration and too much yeast not good? (G C)
  Cocoa Beans ("David Craft")
  Roll-around cart for CO2 cylinder (David Towson)
  Newbie questions ("Mark BitzMart")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 12:42:29 +0000 From: "A. J. delange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Maturex/Theakstons Let me rephrase the question. Who will be the first homebrewer in the US to try this stuff? I can't say I remember Andy's posts on this but that was years ago. In response to a couple of other comments - I doubt that we'll see it (Maturex) any time soon on homebrew supply shop shelves so I'm guessing the experimenters will be those with a close relationship with a commercial brewery i.e. one that will "lend" a homebrewere a couple of cc (I think the dose is 7 cc/bbl). And no, it should have no power to remove diacetyl - only to prevent its formation. * * * * * * * * * * * * * Paul mentioned the proximity of Theakstons and Black Sheep and the similarities in their processes. The similarity in process goes beyond proximity: Black Sheep was started by members of the Theakston family. Unfortunately, Theakstons has been purchased by one of the Big Five and, as is so often the case under these circumstances, the beer has suffered. O.P. was a truely world class beer a few years back. A visit to those environs about a year and a half ago revealed an O.P. that was a ghost of its former self. On a more recent visit it seemed to have come back part way but still wasn't what it used to be. I'm hoping the trend will continue. Note that the bottled stuff they export never was a good representation of the draught product. Cheers, A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 10:01:36 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Ringwood yeast and Middle Ages Brewery Peter A. Ensminger said, "I never would have guessed that McDuff's uses the same yeast as Middle Ages." A few years ago I was talking to one of the brewers from Middle Ages Brewery. (I was trying to "siphon off" his recipe for Impale Ale.) For what it is worth, he said that his Ringwood yeast was not the same as the commercial Ringwood yeast. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 09:33:20 -0800 From: "Michael O'Donnell" <mooseo at stanford.edu> Subject: Min / Max time for starters At the urging of this list, I am beginning to make yeast starters. Unfortunately, I find that it is rarely convenient to do so; I usually don't know that I will have time to brew until the night before or morning of brew day. My questions: how long can I keep a, say, 1 quart starter if I make it and then realize I won't be able to brew when I thought? How soon before brewing is too late to bother with a starter? If I realize 12 hours before that I will be brewing the next day, will that help at all? thanks, mike Monterey, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:13:53 -0800 (PST) From: G C <gsd4lyf at yahoo.com> Subject: Too much wort aeration and too much yeast not good? I've read opinions here and other places indicating that pitching a lot of yeast and aerating the wort as much as possible are both ways to improve beer quality, but I haven't seen much data given. When using pure oxygen, isn't it possible to over-aerate? Can't too much yeast have a negative impact? I mention this because in the October BYO, Ashton Lewis, master brewer of Springfield Brewing Company and former brewing science instructor at UC Davis, says this: "Ideal oxygen levels are between eight to ten parts per million. However, when you use pure oxygen you can get oxygen levels exceeding 20 ppm. This means that you can overdo it if you don't have the tools to measure oxygen flow and oxygen content. Since most homebrewers lack these instruments, I recommend taking good notes when using pure oxygen and determining by trial and error what works well." Note: This isn't a concern when using air via an aquarium pump for aeration. "Just as too little oxygen can be bad, too much oxygen can also have a negative impact on the beer--especially if you pitch too much yeast. What could happen, essentially, is you'll end up with beer that has very little character. There are flavors produced when yeast is growing, but if you start with a large quantity of yeast and excessive oxygen, the yeast will not need to struggle and multiply to ferment out the sugars in the wort. In this case, they will not impart important flavors and aroma to the beer." I'm not sure what specific flavors and aroma he is referring to, but he does mention that some brewers intentionally limit aeration when they want more esters, and conversely, they reduce ester production through "good aeration practices." Does anybody have any data related to this/these subject(s), and/or source(s) they would recommend, especially specific amounts of yeast that are considered too great for x batch size, etc.? Guy Los Gatos, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:57:36 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Cocoa Beans Greetings, I would use Cocoa Powder from the grocery and avoid the cocoa butter (oil) that is in the beans or baking chocolate. Brewing on, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:16:27 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Roll-around cart for CO2 cylinder For some while, I have been trying to find a convenient way to move my CO2 cylinder around. Sometimes I need it to pressurize a keg at one of the two refrigerators in the garage, sometimes I need it near the work table when I'm bottling, and sometimes I have to purge a water-filled keg in the laundry room. My cylinder holds 20 pounds of gas, and weighs a little over 60 pounds when full. Carrying the thing around by the valve is doable, but darned uncomfortable. A couple weeks ago, I was in a second-hand store and saw one of those folding luggage carts people use to roll their suitcases around in airports. It looked like just the thing I needed, so I bought it. And having used it for a while, I am delighted with how well it fills my requirement. After I bent the sides of the suitcase support frame apart just a bit, the cylinder fits nicely between them, and rests on two steel rods underneath. The bungee cord that comes with the unit does a nice job of holding the cylinder in place. In the "parked" position, the assembly is quite stable, and has no tendency to tip over. Since it came from a second-hand store and has no markings, I have no idea who made the cart I purchased. But after searching the web for a while, I found one that is almost identical, and has the two steel rods needed to support the cylinder. You can see a picture at http://www.etravelergear.com/travsmarfoll.html . Prices for these carts vary over a wide range, so it's well worth the effort to shop around. The one just noted sells for $25 plus shipping. Designs also vary quite a bit, and some have just an open rectangular frame that would not support a cylinder. So if you're interested in pursuing this solution, be sure to take that into consideration. Dave Towson Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:19:43 -0600 From: "Mark BitzMart" <mark at bitzmart.com> Subject: Newbie questions First time brewer here with a few questions from my notes after bottling my first batch. I have read the first 40 pages of Papazian's book, looked at howtobrew.com (and a few other sites) and googled this list, but could not find answers to the following: 1. I sanitized the bottle caps by boiling them. Can I re-boil boiled but unused caps next time? I just don't know how viable the seals are and don't want to bother if they degrade with an additional 5 min boil. 2. My starter kit included a twin lever hand capper. When I capped the bottles, I noticed that some of them had a circular indentation in the inner ring probably because I exerted extra pressure when pressing down. It looked like it provided a better seal so I made sure that all of them had this inner ring by reapplying the capper. Is this inner ring desired? 3. When I started to bottle I had trouble with air in the tubing until the second or third bottle. Any advice on how to avoid this problem? 4. I plan to create labels for the bottles and read that self-adhesive style printer labels would be difficult to remove. Will plain inkjet paper secured with glue sticks be adequate? And is sealing the label with hair spray the way to go to prevent the ink from running? 5. The wife and kids gave me dirty looks when they came back from shopping and smelled the wort. With Thanksgiving right around the corner, turkey fryers are going to be on sale, and I plan to purchase one so they will be "thankful" when I start my concoction outside. What are the ideal attributes when purchasing such a device? I look forward to your advice. Mark Baich Buffalo Grove, IL Return to table of contents
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