HOMEBREW Digest #4192 Tue 11 March 2003

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  1st All Grain Batch Procedure (Michael Fross)
  Spoofer virus (David Harsh)
  Re: Subject: Fermenter recirculation #4 - results (David Towson)
  Re: Greed (Charles)
  PID operation (David Harsh)
  10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition ("Christopher Clair")
  A buck a lb project - refridgerant cooler for small conocals ("rzukosky")
  re. lactic acid vs lactobacillus ("John Misrahi")
  re: RIMs Design + manifolds + ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Greed? (Donald and Melissa Hellen)
  RIMS with two Controllers ("David Boice")
  Re: extreme lag in primary (Brian Dube)
  Another View of CAP ("Peter Garofalo")
  RE TMS ("Sven Pfitt")
  Water Treatment ("Trevor White")
  Lambic Digest ("David Craft")
  RE:  Buying Hops Plants (Bill Tobler)
  Extraction Efficiency and milling ("Dave Burley")
  Chili Beer (Jim Bermingham)
  BLATANT AD - ProMash Version 1.8.a is Released! ("Jeffrey Donovan")
  RE: Buying Hops Plants (Chad Holley)
  RE: Care and cleaning of plastic (Michael Hartsock)
  Sources of Hops (Jason Poll)
  Re: Buying Hops Plants (Jeff Renner)
  9th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition RESULTS! ("John B. Doherty")

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * http://www.cafeshops.com/hbdstore * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 08:15:09 -0600 From: Michael Fross <michael at fross.org> Subject: 1st All Grain Batch Procedure Hello everyone, I'm getting ready to do my first all grain batch, and I was coming up with the steps I was going to go through on brew day. I thought it might be helpful to share those steps with you and get your tips and opinions as well as maybe helping other new all grain brewers. So, I would appreciate it if folks with more experience than I, could look this long message over and let me know if I've got mistakes or if there is a better way of doing this. I'll be printing this out and using it as a guide as I brew in a few weeks so any help would be appreciated. Thanks again. Frosty - ----------------------------------------------------- My setup is 2 gott 10 gallon coolers, one with a false bottom, and the other with phils sparge arm. Nothing to fancy. I'll be making 5 gallons of an american pale ale using an infusion mash. 1. Crush the grain the night before or have my brewshop due it if they don't want to much money to do so. I have a corona mill, so I know it's not the best. 2. Heat up 7 gallons of water to 180F and transfer into mashtun cooler. Put on the lid and let it sit for 10 minutes. This will heat it up and get it ready. When done, transfer it back to the kettle and heat it (or add room temperature water) to 11F degrees higher than your mash temperature. For this batch, it'll be 163F since I am going to mash at 152F. 3. Transfer the correct amount of mash water from the kettle into the mash tun. I'm going to use about 1 gallon for every three lbs of grain. This batch has 10 lbs of grain, so that'd be about 3.5 gallons. I don't know if this needs to be more precise. 4. Add your grist slowly and make sure you stir really well. I don't know if aeration is an issue at this point, but I doubt it. Adjust the temperature with hot water or cold water if needed to hit your mash temperature. 5. Cover and let sit for however long you will be mashing. For my 1st recipe, I'll be waiting for an hour. However, you can now get your sparge setup. Bring 5 gallons of water to 168F degrees, and make sure your Phil's sparge arm (or whatever you use) are working properly. Adjust the sparge water PH to 5.2 - 5.6 using Gypsum. Put on the lid to keep the temperature fairly constant. 6. When mashing is complete, you should check for conversion. I don't have any ticture of Idodine, but I've heard that Iodophor can be used. Anyone have any experience with this? Where can one find tincture of idodine? 7. Draw off a quart fairly quickly (about 2 min) then close the valve and pour it over the grains. Repeat this until the wort is pretty clear. According to Miller, this should take about 15 minutes. If it's not clear by then, you need to increase your runoff rate. If it clears too quickly, slow that rate down. 8. Time to sparge. I'll be putting my "First Wort Hopping" hops in the kettle at this stage. You need to get a bunch of the wort from the lauter tun into the kettle. Draw off at a slower rate than you did the initial runnings and stop when there is two inches of wort on top of the grains. This should take about 20 to 30 minutes. 9. Start the sparge water and slowly draw off at about the same rate the sparge water is entering the vessel. This part of the operation will take between 45 and 60 minutes. As the mash thins, you will need to slowly increase your rate, but (according to Miller again) this should be about .44 quarts per minute average, with it being slower at first and a bit faster at the end. 10. You should end your sparge when the spec gravity of the runoff falls under 1.010. I know you can go lower, but I don't mind sacrificing a touch of grain to keep the tannins and icky stuff out. 11. I think that's it. Bring to boil, add bittering hops, etc. Most of us understand this part of it. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 11:02:02 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Spoofer virus Greetings- If you are a digest subscriber and use Microsoft Outlook, you may be infected with the spoofer/virus W32/Yaha.g at MM PLEASE CHECK YOUR SYSTEM! The only common thread in many of the recipients and faked senders have been being on HBD. Note: when checking your system, remember that even though it causes system crashes and uses up hogs resources, that doesn't mean the windows operating system qualifies as a virus. Thanks for saving me from deleting 30 messages a day... Dave Harsh Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 11:26:05 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Subject: Fermenter recirculation #4 - results At 05:55 PM 3/8/03 -0500, you wrote: >Maybe you could pump the wort through a coil in an ice bath( or cold-water >bath) as long as your pumping it around~ Hi Bob. That's one of the things I have been considering, and I already have the equipment needed to do it. But it is a bit of a bother, and I am not yet convinced that recirculation is really buying me all that much. It seems to speed things up a bit, but I'm not yet convinced the end result is any better. It certainly does increase the amount of blowoff, though, and that might be worth something in terms of getting rid of crud. I'll just have to play with it some more before deciding what to do. Best regards, Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 09:08:17 -0800 (PST) From: Charles at thestewarts.com Subject: Re: Greed On Saturday, 8 March, 2003, Wayne Holder aka Zymie admonishes several members of the HBD for daring to complain about TMS's 75% price increase: [Long & pointless quotations from dictionary redacted] > Those who can differentiate wholesale from retail will surely be able to > differentiate greed from business. Are greed and business mutually exclusive? Corporations can be greedy, too - just because it's a "business decision" doesn't make it immune from greed (not that I've labeled it that). And it IS hard to differentiate wholesale from retail when the company runs 2/3 page full color ads in Zymurgy entitled "Hoppers for Your Hops." > Just because someone accidently stumbles into buying at wholesale price > levels does not mean that they are entitled forever. Jeez, Wayne, who claimed eternal entitlement? And again, is responding to a 2/3 page full color ads in Zymurgy "stumbling?" Nowhere on their web site did they have the "wholesale only" disclaimer that your company's ads and website have. > If any pissed of keg resellers, Socially concious types, or people that > refer to themselves in the 3rd person would like to continue this discussion > off of the digest, I would be more than happy to oblige. First, Wayne, read my posting. Nowhere did I say I was "pissed off". Not once did I express anger. My words were "surprised" and "disappointed". I won't waste bandwidth on quoting Webster's definitions of surprised and disappointed since you obviously have a copy. Of course TMS has every right to price their product however they want. But I am also entitled to be disappointed when that decision puts their product out of my budget. Second, my postings have nothing to do with me reselling kegs. I wrote it as a home brewer and TMS customer, albeit a disappointed one now. Wayne, I respect you and your company both from the content of your postings and quality of your products, but am puzzled by your extremely zealous defense of TMS. If you were to market a product - say a conical fermenter kit - to the home brewing community, then dramatically change either quality or price, you should have every expectation that this community will discuss it. That's what the HBD is all about. Charles Stewart Gaithersburg, Maryland,USA Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com/brewing Support anti-Spam legislation. Join the fight http://www.cauce.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 12:11:24 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: PID operation > steve lane <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> asks: > In the past, I've just run the set point to say > 400 to increase the output and once the liquor gets to where I want > it, I > set the temp. back down to 175 or what ever set point I desire.... > Question two: ... > This brings me to the conclusion that I'm not the only thing I'm > controlling > is on/off of 100% energy to the heating elements and I'm not > controlling any > percentage of energy being fed to the elements. Was I told wrong... Well, it depends on the type of PID controller you have. Some digital controllers give a fractional output by cycling the amount of time that the out put is on. For example, if you want 40% of max on a continual basis, it will give you 100% output for 40% of the time. These controllers work fairly well as PID systems in my experience which I admit is limited. An analog controller will actually give you the 40% output. Some digital controllers may do the same, but you may have to read the manual. As far as reaching a value faster, it does make sense that raising the setpoint will get you there faster. You are increasing the controller response in order to get more heat input. As background, the reason PID controllers are popular is that a strict proportional controller (P) will always have a steady-state offset from the actual setpoint (mathematically, infinite time is required to reach the setpoint). The integral (I) term is added in order to remove that offset, but introduces an oscillation around the setpoint. The derivative (D) term causes the oscillation to decay. In a process engineering application, overshooting the setpoint and/or oscillation can cause problems, so PID systems are *usually* (control people, correct me if I'm wrong) tuned to overshoot and then decay to a steady value so that each oscillation is 1/4 of the previous - referred to as "quarter decay" by some. These criteria are based on a compromise between rise time and overshoot - a faster rise time will give more overshoot and longer to decay. If overshoot is not acceptable, you have to increase the rise time. All of these measurements are based on the response from a step change in the control variable. There are two control texts that I've used in the past, one by Stephanopolous and the other by Coughnower and Koppel and I've probably mispelled two out of the three names and don't feel like going upstairs to be sure... Both texts have the detail if you give a rat's posterior. Seems I remember more control theory than I thought... Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 14:25:40 -0500 From: "Christopher Clair" <buzz at netreach.net> Subject: 10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition Brewers Unlimited Zany Zymurgists (BUZZ) is proud to announce that the 2003 BUZZ Off home brew competition will be held on Saturday, June 7th at Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant in West Chester, PA. For another year we will be a qualifying event for the prestigious Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB) as well as the Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year. All BJCP recognized styles including meads and ciders are eligible for entry. For complete details and forms, please visit the BUZZ web site at http://hbd.org/buzz. Entries will be accepted between May 12 and June 1. For drop off and mail in locations please refer to the BUZZ web site. Please, do not send entries to Iron Hill. BJCP Judges and stewards will be needed. If you are interested please contact me or another committee member (contact information can be found on the web site). All judges must be BJCP certified. Good luck and cheers! Christopher Clair buzz at netreach.net http://hbd.org/buzz "The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Ancient Egyptian Wisdom, 2200 B.C. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 16:14:47 -0500 From: "rzukosky" <mrzar at ic.net> Subject: A buck a lb project - refridgerant cooler for small conocals Need technical assistance to design a cooling device using an auto air conditioning compressor and an electric motor. Specific recommendations for: Evaporator coil length, configuration and size dia. Capillary length and/or gas control circuit Drier/receiver Any thing I have not considered. The evaporator would be attached to the conical lid and detached from compressor unit with flex lines and quick disconnects. Electric motor would be 1 hp as this is what I have. Temp control would be a dead band temp control (freon bulb type) immersed in the wort. Freon R22 is the choice at this time but could be changed to a more greenie type if the gas can perform well within the task. Interface systems like cooled glycol or ice water in my opinion would unnecessarily complicate the project. I have a York piston compressor, a swash plate after market compressor and a new 1/3 hp hermitic. It would be simpler for me to use the hermitic but then what about all the other homebrewers who could do the used auto compressor thing with salvage parts. I then wouldn't have to build a walk-in to accommodate my too large for cooler conical. bobz ------------ for privates mrzar at ic.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 17:24:32 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: re. lactic acid vs lactobacillus Rama, I have been considering getting a bottle of lactic acid for use in a wit beer - I like some sourness. However, as you corrctly state, the flavour is differnt. There is a local micro (Brasserie Schoune) that I am pretty sure uses lactic acid in their wit.. And the sour flavor is just...sour. It's not bad, but you can kind of tell they 'doctor' the beer, as opposed to having developed the flavour through the fermentation. john [892, 63] Apparent Rennerian (km) "Actually John it uses a very complex algorithm to determine your average time between "Generate" clicks, and from that can it figures out how drunk you are, and what styles of beer you prefer. Obviously, you prefer obscure Belgians!" - Drew Avis Seen on a tee shirt - "The internet is full. Go away!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 17:36:23 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: RIMs Design + manifolds + Mark Vernon posted awhile back: >In HBD #4179 Dion Hollenbeck recommends to put the temp probe on you RIMs on >the output side of the heating element, this way you avoid overheating your >wort. I have been using my RIMs for several years and have my probe on the >output of the Kettle. I have had problems my attenuation over my last 1/2 >dozen batches. Question for the RIMs brewers here, what is the location of >your temp probe? I am in the process of designing/building a new stand and >want to know if I need to move the temp probe? If you can only have single temp probe, it's better located dowstream of the heater like Dion suggests. That ensures the recirc. isn't overheated and hence helps ensure consistent fermentability. The downside is it'll take a bit longer to raise the mash to a higher rest temp. A single probe between the tun and heater measures the mash temp. This seems a good control input, BUT, especially at low flows, the downstream temp can get really high. It got upwards of 170 degF in my first stab at a RIMS which had a single probe in that location. Not good for the enzymes hence it will affect fermentability and yeild and could have caused scorching on the heating element. If you go with this location, at least install a thermometer downstream of the heater. The RIMS controller I now use looks at two probes- one up and the other downstream of the heater. The heater is on only if the upstream temp is below the desired rest temp *and* the temp dowstream is not more than 2 degF above the desired rest temp. It's worked out well. I think it gives faster boosts between rests than a single probe located downstream of the heater. I just posted a page describing the latest RIMS at http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/rimsnew/rimsnew.htm It includes photos- including one of the ugliest RIMS you've likely even seen! = = = = = Mark Vernon asked even further back how to cool a 12 gal. conical fermenter without resorting to a walk-in cooler. Something along the lines of what I use with cornie keg fermenters should work. Basically, insulate the exterior of the fermenter and put a cooling coil inside it. I use a pump/reservior/heat exchanger in the adjacent beer fridge as a coolant supply. A similiar supply in a freezer but with a gycol/water solution would work for lower temps. A picnic cooler with ice water and a submersible pump inside can serve as an experimental or alternate coolant source if you're willing to put up with replenishing the ice. Details on the keg sized one are at: http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/kegferm/kegferm.htm = = = = = Re: an even older old thread on slotting mash tun manifolds being tedious... One thing that really helps with slotting is a jig. The one I use that helps hold the tubing and ensures the slots are uniform. Together with good music and homebrew the job becomes almost pleasant. Details are available on: http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/rimsnew/makeman.htm = = = = = Mike more recently asked how to filter the trub and hops out of the keg after the boiling and cooling. I use a manifold located at the bottom of the boiler. It's a spiral made from 5' of stainless steel mesh removed from the exterior of a plumbing connector. It depends on a bed of whole hops for filtration of the hot and cold break, however I've lately taken to using pellets for bittering. A couple of ounces of the late addition hops forms a nice filter bed that removes much of the trub and pellet hops remains without clogging. Well, unless one runs off too fast- about 1 qt./min. with pellets and close to double that without. Details and photos are at http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/boilnew/boilnew.htm BTW, it's used after cooling the wort with an immersion chiller- never tried it with a CF chiller. I suspect not as well... c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 19:14:57 -0500 From: Donald and Melissa Hellen <donhellen at horizonview.net> Subject: Greed? Rich Scotty wrote: There is a third possibility however and that is that they found themselves in the position of having a product that found a new market and decided to exploit it. That is their right in a free market economy. Exercising that right to this degree is, in MY opinion, greedy. - --------- --------- --------- ------------- I tend to agree, but I'm in an MBA program right now and I found it interesting that raising prices to the equilibrium point (where demand equals supply) is a form of rationing where there is a shortage. Where no shortage exists in a new market, the high price would be just temporary since others could enter the market and increase supply in the marketplace. This, in turn, would increase competition in the marketplace and drive prices down to the new equilibrium point. The following example from Microeconomics (Gwartney, et. al., 2003) gives a good (but extreme) example of how this works: When hurricane Hugo hit Charleston, S.C., the mayor imposed a temporary price ceiling on goods sold in the city. This virtually stopped the flow of goods into the city and instead these were diverted to outlying areas where these goods could be sold at much higher than pre-hurricane prices. The goods that made it into the city were sold at pre-hurricane prices, but since anyone could purchase these goods, those who needed them the most (and would pay much more than pre-hurricane prices, such as grocery stores, gas stations, etc.) could not obtain these since others who did not need them could obtain them and deplete the supply. Since grocery stores and gas stations could not buy generators and other needed goods, food spoiled and people could not buy gasoline, the best interests of the locality would have been served if market prices would raise to equilibrium and those who needed them the most would pay the higher price and get them. In a short time, supply would increase and prices would again decline, eventually to pre-hurricane levels once more. Of course, that's an extreme example, but the same principle applies to this situation. If there's a shortage, prices can rise to the equilibrium point and those who need the goods the most (those who are willing to pay the price) will get them. If they're overpriced, demand will be too low for the product to sell, and the supplier will have to make a decision as to whether the item is worth marketing. What is strange here is that the price suddenly rose quite high, but this might just be an indication that the supplier underestimated the demand (at that price) and had to raise prices in order to not have a shortage in the market. If they could not buy a larger quantity than they were getting, and if they had commercial customers who needed these and expected them to always be available, they would be doing these customers (who need them more and therefore are willing to pay the higher price) a disservice. They also might put themselves out of business by not catering to their commercial customers' needs. Individual customers may not really be supplying a large part of their income. Just some interesting thoughts from my textbook. I'll keep my opinions to myself as to whether or not your supplier was unethical in raising their price, as we don't really know all of the facts, other than the price was raised by what seems to be a large amount. Donald Hellen Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 19:20:32 -0500 From: "David Boice" <daveboice at insight.rr.com> Subject: RIMS with two Controllers I've been thinking about the recent comments highlighting the advisability to control the temp. of a RIMS both in the mash-tun and at the outlet of the heater. I think the concept is great but have a question as to how best to set such a system up. You could use two controllers (PID controllers would be best I guess ) and two relays and wire them in series, so both must be "on" to provide current to the heater(s) but, as I have no experience with this, I don't know if this would work well. Will I confuse or interfere with the controller that is ramping to or maintaining mash temp. by overriding it when the wort exiting the heater goes above the upper limit I set? Will I ruin its ability to accurately get to, and maintain setpoint? Another thought is- would it be better to control the voltage going to the heater ,so as to control the wattage output of the heater. I'm seeing a temp. probe at the exit of the heater hooked up to some kind of controller that lowers voltage if the exiting wort is too hot. That way there is only one controller turning the heater on and off. I don't know if there is a good way to automatically do this (you've probably noticed the sign around my neck that says "electrically challenged") but I figured already running a 220v element at 120v to lower the wattage, so why not go the next step. Any thoughts from the control experts out there? Thanks for any help you can provide. David Boice Carroll Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 20:48:02 -0600 From: Brian Dube <brian.dube at gotgoat.com> Subject: Re: extreme lag in primary Thanks for all the suggestions concerning my stubborn cream ale. Even though I've let still more time go by, I'm going to try my luck with a new starter. - -- Brian Dube Columbia, Missouri Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 21:50:51 -0500 From: "Peter Garofalo" <pgarofa1 at twcny.rr.com> Subject: Another View of CAP I have been reading the recent discussion of Classic American Pilsners with interest. And, even though he really is largely responsible for the resurgence of the style, it occurs to me that we normally only hear Jeff Renner's take on the style. It is a great style, and I have enjoyed it immensely. My thanks to Jeff, Ben Jankowski, Del Lansing, and the late George Fix for reviving it. One thing that I fear may scare off potential CAP brewers is all the discussion of cereal mashes, using polenta or other corn products. I have been very successful using simple (though expensive) flaked maize. Really. It simply blends into the mash, and adds that grainy wonderfulness that is so hard to define. I have tasted my CAP next to Jeff's (at MCAB IV in Cleveland last year), and they were remarkably similar. Mine subsequently fared very well in competition. I like to do a very simple infusion mash, typically with 15-20 % flaked maize along with a mix of 6-row and 2-row Pilsner malt (somewhere around 50:50, but it depends on what's available). A low saccharification rest (148-150F) leaves a very fermentable wort. For hops, my personal favorite is Hallertau Mittelfrau, but it is increasingly difficult to find this variety. Hallertau Tradition is also very nice, and I have had good luck with American Liberty as well. I like to mash hop, first wort hop, and bitter hop. Nothing hits my kettle beyond 60 minutes from knockout, and the hop flavor and aroma are just fine. For yeast, I have best luck with Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager). It ferments well in the low 50s F, but it takes about two weeks to complete. I am drinking my latest version right now, and it has that certain something that makes it a CAP. Jeff knows... As for variety, there are several methods that will get you in the same ballpark. I know that George DePiro always decocted his CAPs, though I don't know if he did a cereal mash. Some folks add a bit of Munich malt, though I prefer mine as light as Budweiser (in color, that is). In short, there are many ways to make the same style. I find this to be one of the simplest brewing sessions I can manage. Perhaps it simply fits my equipment and techniques. My recommendation is to do whatever works for you, but do not delay in making this appealing and rewarding style. Cheers, Peter Garofalo Syracuse, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 21:48:55 -0500 From: "Sven Pfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE TMS One assumption is that they keep the desired size hopper in stock. Maybe they are not set up to stock and have to do a machine set up every time, or many times, when they get a one-se two-se orders. Set up time can be a significant cost in such operations. They may have found that it just isn't cost effective to make one off production of the hopper. Just my two cents.. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:00:22 +1000 From: "Trevor White" <whitet at usq.edu.au> Subject: Water Treatment "Ken Schwartz's practice of adding dry malt extract and gypsum to distilled or reverse osmosis water is sound. The lack of buffering capacity makes the DME very effective in dropping the water pH. The added gypsum adds the calcium needed for yeast health. I suggest that adding calcium chloride is another option for this approach when pursuing less bitter styles." Martin Brungard wrote the above in response to a question about water in Chicago. I have been using reverse osmosis water in all of my brewing (all grain) and have not heard of the practice of adding dry malt extract to the water. I currently add about 3 grams of gypsum and 1 gram of salt to the RO water and include acidulated malt (Weyerman's) at around 2% of the grain bill when brewing light coloured lagers. I also include around 5% of light crystal malt or 5% Munich. The results are usually quite good to my taste but I would like to hear from brewers who use RO or distilled water on a regular basis, specifically in regard to water treatment for different beer styles. Any advice would be much appreciated. BTW, I use RO water as the local water is very hard. Thanks Trevor White Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 23:18:08 -0500 From: "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com> Subject: AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I messed up good this time. I could'nt wait for this scotch wee heavy to go beyond 2 weeks before bottling, big mistake. I guess it was not fully fermented ( DUH ) because I opened one tonight an it gushed. I'm so mad I could dump the whole thing down the drain!!!AHHHHHHHHHH So here's my dilemma I made a 1.100 scotch ale fermented one week then racked 1 week, then primed 1.8 oz for 2 weeks 31 bottles an there all as carbonated as a German wheat beer, or Belgian. Could I Un-cap an re-cap all these bottles? I think that might relive the pressure? Personal e-mails are welcome as I want to save this beer I tasted it and it's wonderful..........once it gets a little flat. argggghhhhhhh I moved it to a cooler place just in case I have bottle bombs in the making. many thanks gregman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:32:20 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Lambic Digest Greetings, Can anyone tell me how to post to the Lambic Digest or if it still exists. I found several references to it on Google, but that is current or worked......... Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Guild Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:44:23 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Buying Hops Plants Yesterday, George asked; Where can I buy hops plants? I would like to grow my own. Freshops is a good place to start. They go on sale March 21. Read their tutorial on growing and harvesting. I might try growing them myself this year. http://www.freshops.com/ Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:26:28 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Extraction Efficiency and milling Brewsters: I am not surprised by Steven S' high efficiency and agree that it is most likely his grind. In my experience, coarse, high speed Honebrew shop grinds are the likely candidate when it comes to lower efficiency extractions from good quality malts. Try doing as I do ( and have recomended in the past) and make two grinds of the same malt ( that is grind it twice) . Make the first one at a coarse grind to crack the malt grain into about six pieces and free the husks and the second pass to grind it smaller. This emulates a two roll mill used by the big boys. You get small malt particle while keeping the husks intact. Believe it or not, it is faster than grinding once at a fine setting. The extraction efficiency goes way up and the likelihood of a stuck sparge ( even with rye) goes to zero. The speed can be very high although in most cases I still sparge over about an hour to allow time for the wort to diffuse out of the particle. Case in point is with high rye brews, I rip the first wort through, rinse the bed quickly and heat the extracted wort combination back up and pass it slowly through the bed again and do a slower extraction. Why? Rye wort viscosity is very temperature and concentration dependent and I believe a high temeprature, dilute sparge is necessary. Cooling of the bed during a slow extraction causes the problems with rye, IMHO. I've never had a stuck sparge even with 100% rye. Grind is a very important factor in good brewing practice. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:46:23 -0800 From: Jim Bermingham <jbham6843 at netscape.net> Subject: Chili Beer I have tasted many "Chili Beers" in my time. Some I liked, some not. Most were too hot to really enjoy. I like spicy food and can set down with most anyone and hold my own in a pepper eating contest. But why make a beer that one or too is all you can drink and most people not even one? I was fortunate last October to be invited by Larry Bristol, to the Double Luck Station, for October Fest. Larry and his charming wife Marsha, did themselves proud, providing about 40 people with great food and beer. One of the beers Larry served was his Cerveza Chingaquedito con Chili. Cerveza Chingaquedito con Chili is a tasty beer, flavored with jalapeno peppers. Since most of the heat from the peppers comes from its seeds, they were remove so the beer did not inherit a lot of heat, only the pepper flavor. This beer went great with the Mexican food it was served with. I think everyone there had the beer with the Mexican food, including all the wives and girlfriends. Larry did a little something extra with the peppers to reduce the heat and enhance the flavor. He told me, but swore me to secrecy and said he would kill me if I told. Sense I will be seeing him at the Blubonnet in a few weeks, and the fact that I want to live, and will be wanting another invitation to his annual October Fest I will not let his recipe out. With a little encouragement however, he might. Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:50:50 -0800 From: "Jeffrey Donovan" <jeffrey at promash.com> Subject: BLATANT AD - ProMash Version 1.8.a is Released! Hello HBD'rs! We are pleased to announce that ProMash Version 1.8.a was released on 03/08/2003! As always, the upgrade is free of charge to currently registered users. Because many of you frequent this site, we are posting this notice here in case you have not yet received the upgrade notice. If you are a registered ProMash user and have not received your upgrade notice, most likely you have changed your email address and not notified us. To get these changes made and receive your upgrade notice, send your information, in the specified format, to: techsupport at promash.com Make the subject line read: "Email Change". Within the body of the email include your full name, middle initial included, your former email address and your current email address. Do not be surprised if response is 24 hours or greater as we are generally overwhelmed with these requests for each new release. I won't bore the group with new features, but anybody that is interested can check them out at: http://www.promash.com/Changes/changes_18a.html And of course the evaluation versions can be found at: http://www.promash.com Then click on the "Free Eval" button. Thanks for your indulgence, Cheers! - Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:55:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chad Holley <em2hurley at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Buying Hops Plants George, I bought my plants through freshops.com. They had a great selection, and they arrived quickly. This will be my third summer with the plants, and if last year is any indication of growth, I need to expand my trellis. Don't expect much of a harvest the first year, but last year was pretty decent for me. Their website has good planting and growing tips, and alot of good info on hops, plus pictures of customer's hop gardens. I'd have to say I'm a satisfied customer (no affiliation with the company). Chad Holley Grand Blanc, MI George wrote... >>Hi Everybody >>Where can I buy hops plants? I would like to grow >>my own. >>George Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:58:28 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Care and cleaning of plastic Granted, I've not been brewing 15 years, so my plastic fermenters have not experienced the wear and tear that other's have. However, my collection of free five gallon buckets and six dollar seven gallon primaries don't justify any more expensive options. It just won't cost that much to replace my entire fleet of fermenters. However, if you are brewing larger batches, i just don't know what inexpensive plastic options you have, beyond fermenting in several buckets. But - I use little else than a pressurized stream of water to clean my plastic fermenters. ie the garden hose. So I'm not worried about scratches. My primaries do require a quick rub down with a nylon brush, although if i had a sponge on a stick, that would be even less abrasive. So, anyone know where I can get 15 gallon plastic options for under $25? Mike Columbia, MO ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:14:14 -0500 (EST) From: Jason Poll <jtpoll at mtu.edu> Subject: Sources of Hops George asks where to buy hop plants: > Where can I buy hops plants? I would like to grow my own. First and I guess foremost, I'm not affiliated with any of these places, just a happy (hoppy?) customer from a few of them. I went on a search for hops rhizomes a while back and I ended up bookmarking a few places, and buying from some place complete different. These are the places I had bookmarked: Freshops: http://freshops.com/ HopTech: http://hoptech.com/ Nichols Garden Nursery: http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/ I ended up buying the rhizomes from a seed catalog I get every year called Pintree Garden Seeds: http://www.superseeds.com/ It looks like they have the smallest selection, only Cascade and Nugget rhizomes, but it was convenient for me since I was ordering everything else for my garden, and starting with just Cascade sounds good enough to me. Before sending this off, I whipped off a quick google search to see if I couldn't find any other sources. Here's a few that came up: BrewOrganic: http://www.breworganic.com/Catalog/hop-rhizomes.htm Beer-Wine: http://www.beer-wine.com/hoproots.htm NorthernBrewer: http://www.northernbrewer.com/rhizomes.html There were a bunch more results, but I'll just stop there. Good luck, and have a large, strong trellis ready! I guess these bad boys are quite the quick growers! Speaking of trellising hops, does anyone have any suggestions for trellises (trelli?) for growing hops? I'm thinking of making a simple trellis as high as I can, and then stringing some rope or something over to an old building in my yard. Hopefully they won't overgrow that...at least not in their first year (I hope.) Anyway... --Jason Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:32:54 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Buying Hops Plants George, AKA Ludwig <Bluestar792 at netscape.net> writes >Where can I buy hops plants? I would like to grow my own. George (and others) Here's a perfect example of why it's nice to include where you are in your post. There are a lot of local homebrew shops and mail order outlets as well that sell hop rhizomes (roots). There might be another brewer in your area who could tip you on local availability. If you happen to live near a shop that carries them (some do it by taking orders in advance for pickup at planting time), you'd probably do best by buying that way. Probably cheaper since there would be no shipping. If you don't have a local source, check out online suppliers like HBD sponsor Northern Brewer http://www.northernbrewer.com/rhizomes.html. They don't have their rhizome ordering set up for this year, but I imagine they will soon. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:07:21 -0800 (PST) From: "John B. Doherty" <dohertybrewing at yahoo.com> Subject: 9th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition RESULTS! The Boston Wort Processors Homebrew Club is pleased to announce the results of the 9th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition, held last Saturday, March 8th at the Watch City Brewing Company in Waltham MA. A total of 386 entries made by 108 brewers from 13 states representing 22 homebrew clubs, spanning all 26 BJCP categories were judged by 54 judges with the assistance of 24 stewards. Congratulations to the Boston Wort Processors' own Jim Dexter of Acton, MA for his Best of Show winning Northern German Pilsner. Runner-Up Best of Show was an India Pale Ale brewed by Geoff McNally from Tiverton, RI of the South Shore Brew Club. This is the Geoff's 3rd "Top-2" Best of Show finish at BHC in the last 3 years! Second Runner-Up Best of Show went to Fran Malo from Leominster, MA of the F.O.A.M. homebrew club for his Dopplebock. The Brewmaster's Choice Award, selected from the BOS table by Watch City Brewing Company's Head Brewer Aaron Mateychuk, went to a Historical Category Baltic Porter brewed by Paul Zocco from Andover, CT of the Hop River Brewers homebrew club. Paul has accepted the invitation to return to Watch City to brew a brewpub sized batch of the Baltic Porter later this year! Also announced at this year's Boston Homebrew Competition were the final standings in the 2002 New England Homebrewer of the Year Circuit. Successfully defending their 2001 title, The BHC9 host Boston Wort Processors were named the 2002 New England Homebrew Club of the Year. This award is based on the top 5 performing individual brewers in each New England club. The aforementioned BHC9 Best of Show winner, Jim Dexter, was crowned as the 2002 New England Homebrewer of the Year for having amassed the most points in the 24 BJCP beer categories in three area competitions during 2002. The also aforementioned BHC9 Brewmaster's Choice Award winner, Paul Zocco of Andover, CT, was named the 2002 Runner Up for New England Homebrewer of the Year, and was also crowned as the 2002 New England Mead Maker of the Year as well as the 2002 New England Cider Maker of the Year. Your humble author of this message, and the defending 2001 New England Homebrewer of the Year, was awarded the 2nd Runner Up prize in the 2002 New England Homebrewer of the Year standings. A complete list of category winners from the 9th Annual Boston Homebrew Competition (1st place beers in categories 1-20 also qualify for MCAB6 in 2004) can be found on our website at: http://www.wort.org/BHC/winners03.html Tremendous thanks to all who entered, judged and otherwise supported the Boston Homebrew Competition. We look forward to your continued support! Watch for our 10th Anniversary Boston Homebrew Competition coming in February/March 2004! Cheers, John Doherty BHC9 Head Organizer Boston Wort Processors Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 03/11/03, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96