HOMEBREW Digest #4200 Thu 20 March 2003


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Gump on Dry Lager Yeast/Burley ("Rob Moline")
  First All Grain ("Kirk Fleming")
  Re: Ramstein drinking (Bill Rogers)
  The Rob Moline Report ("Rob Moline")
  Bottling Bucket (WAS: Dry Ice Purging) (Andrew Larkin)
  Bottling from the keg ("Dan Gross")
  filling on foam with PrimeTabs ("Mark Tumarkin")
  New Hampshire (Chuck Doucette)
  Re: filling on foam with PrimeTabs ("Tidmarsh Major")
  Ramstein ("A. J. delange")
  What kind of beer did I make? (Jennifer/Nathan Hall)
  Re: Darkening a Dubbel and West Coast AHA location (Jeff Renner)
  Ramstein Drinking ("Gary Malick")
  Wyeast 2278 Check Pils experience ("Andy Mikesell")
  Re: Cereal Mash (Jeff Renner)
  Mash Tun / HLT Insulation ("Reddy, Pat")
   ("Joel Trojnar")
  water analysis/brewing liquor analysis ("Patrick Hughes")
  Zymurgy/Brew Your Own ("Patrick Hughes")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:33:38 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Gump on Dry Lager Yeast/Burley Gump on Dry Lager Yeast/Burley Dave is right, on more than this subject..... Lager yeasts are like racehorses, truly finicky, and not easily amenable to the rigors subjected by fluid bed drying and rehydration...... As such, it can be done, but often with unacceptable self life. My understanding is that most/all dry lager yeast are acually an ale that performed well with those lager parameters.......low esters, temp, time, etc.....like Nottingham.....which I have used at low ferm temps to emulate...with good results. Taxonomy of yeasts no longer rests on lager/ale terms as classically described....as Dr. Cone has preached for years....performance speaks louder than top or bottom fermenters. But, Dave is correct...Lallemand/Danstar did introduce Kroner as a 'true' dry lager some years ago....perhaps '96? The trials I performed with it at LABCO went well, and the performance/attenuations went exactly as described in the literature...and I was somewhat surprised when it was d/c'd. (As I recall, I left the first batch at too high a temp for the first 2 days...and it threw a slight fruity ester..) Newer technologies offer better outcomes however.........and the future offers more possibilities. Watch this space..... BTW, Dave was right on Clinitest......My apologies, Sir! Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:53:55 -0700 From: "Kirk Fleming" <kirkfleming at earthlink.net> Subject: First All Grain In #4199 Mike ("Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net>) mentioned his first all-grain results. Congratulations!! It sounds like you did an all-grain at about the same point in your brewing 'career' as I did, after just a few extracts. It's probably unfair to conclude that all of your grain batches will be better than any of your extract batches could have be (if you do extract again). But without getting into all those arguments, I just wanted to say that I never wanted to go back because it was just so much more fun (yes, and work) to do all grain. Half the fun for me is getting the grain in the first place and mashing. The other half is that kettle on the boil. Anyway, glad you enjoyed good results...there's no turning back now. Onward! This concludes my annual HBD post. Kirk Fleming FRSE, FRSL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:56:22 -0800 (PST) From: Bill Rogers <bill6beers at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Ramstein drinking <snip> Kevin White has a friend going to Ramstein AFB in Germany and asks for suggestions on places to get a good drink. <snip> My handy-dandy Rough Guide to Germany says there's a taproom for the Neufangs brewery in Saarbrucken called Stamm-Kneipe at St Johanner Markt 11. There's also a hausbrauerei ("house brewery" or brewpub) which "makes light and dark beers and serves cheaper and more basic meals than the restaurant next door". This hausbrauerei is Stiefelbrau on the corner of Am Stiefel and Froschengasse. I like the Rough Guide books. They always have pub and brewery listings! Of course, those on leave can easily find themselves in Bamberg for excellent rauchbier in a couple of hours. Or go north to Dusseldorf. Mmmm, altbier. Or NW to Belgium. He's not all that far from Orval. There's a hausbrauerei called Vetter in Heidelberg (in the shadow of the Dom, naturally) that's pretty good. Other valuable resources: http://www.braugasthoefe.com/ lists German brewery gasthouses with and without hotels. http://www.mappy.com/ is good for finding a place once you've got an address. http://www.hausbrauerei.de/ has listings for house breweries all over Germany, including many in the Rheinland-Pfalz and Saarland near Ramstein. http://www.bahn.de/ is the German Rail site, valuable for train times. Look for the "Schones-Wochenende-Ticket" or happy weekend pass. This lets 5 people travel together on the weekends (till 2AM) for 28 euro! Not each, total. Prost! Bill Rogers Madison, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 00:26:23 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: The Rob Moline Report The Rob Moline Report God Bless...the right to choose your destiny....and those that lift oppression. Rob Moline - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 00:28:35 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin at yahoo.com> Subject: Bottling Bucket (WAS: Dry Ice Purging) I agree with Jonathan Royce's comments. The bottling bucket works great. To answer one other point -- to avoid "all that cleaning and sanitizing and recleaning of the bucket" just use your brew kettle as a bottling bucket. If you boil your priming solution in the kettle for a few minutes you don't have to worry about sterilizing it. Then siphon from the secondary directly into the kettle. I let it sit for 15 minutes while I rinse bottles, by which time the swirling has caused very thorough mixing. Afterward the kettle just needs a quick rinse and it's ready for your next brew day. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 06:27:59 -0500 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: Bottling from the keg I really like Tidmarsh Major's idea for bottling from the keg which has served as his secondary fermentation vessel. It sounds like a remarkably simple solution for anyone who kegs but wants to bottle a few from the batch. I am going to try this idea with the CAP I have in the secondary right now. I have never used PrimeTabs and I wonder if it would be possible to go a different route for priming. How about priming the whole batch in the keg with a corn sugar solution, mixing it well, then using a very low pressure to bottle a few. The keg would then be allowed to condition at 50F for a couple of weeks instead of force carbonating. Am I making this more complicated than it needs to be? Should I keep it simple and just get some PrimeTabs? Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 06:30:01 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: filling on foam with PrimeTabs Tidmarsh wrote: "One further suggestion to simplify the process: try Domenick Venezia's PrimeTabs. No need to boil & measure a solution, just drop tablets in the bottles. As an added benefit, the tablets provide nucleation sites so that the beer foams slightly in the bottle--just enough so that when I fill, remove the filler, and place a cap on the bottle, the foam has just reached the lip of the bottle, purging most oxygen." I like this idea, but have a question. I guess if this method drives out the oxygen it's not as much of an issue but are you able to get consistent fill levels this way - and if so, how? It seems that as the beer foams up, it would make it difficult to tell when to stop filling & remove the filler while still getting consistent fill level. Now, what is the best fill level is another whole question - I try for approx 3/4 inch from top, preferring a high fill rather than low. thanks, Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 05:15:36 -0800 (PST) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: New Hampshire Greetings Brewers, I will be heading off to Nashua, NH. in a couple of weeks on business and was wondering if there are any brewpubs of note in the area. I don't know exactly what our schedule is yet, but hope to have some time to quaff a few good brews if there are any. TIA Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:23:19 -0600 From: "Tidmarsh Major" <tidmarsh at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: filling on foam with PrimeTabs Good question, Mark. The foaming isn't a rapid, violent foaming, so it's pretty easy to see where the top of the liquid is. I also use a Phil's Philler, which leaves the beer in the fill tube in the bottle, so that the fill level doesn't change when the filler is removed and air isn't drawn back into the bottle. Once I remove the filler, the headspace fills with foam as I rest the filler in an empty bottle and reach for a cap and the capper. Tidmarsh Tuscaloosa, Ala. On 19 Mar 2003 at 6:30, Mark Tumarkin wrote: > I like this idea, but have a question. I guess if this method drives out the > oxygen it's not as much of an issue but are you able to get consistent fill > levels this way - and if so, how? It seems that as the beer foams up, it would > make it difficult to tell when to stop filling & remove the filler while still > getting consistent fill level. Now, what is the best fill level is another > whole question - I try for approx 3/4 inch from top, preferring a high fill > rather than low. > > thanks, > > Mark Tumarkin > Hogtown Brewers > Gainesville, FL > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 13:50:46 +0000 From: "A. J. delange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Ramstein Dave, I think you're confusing Ramstein (in Rheinland-Pfalz) with Rheinmain (shares runways with Frankfurt airport). I do this myself all the time. As Ramstein is a huge facility (AF Europaean command etc.) there are lots and lots of places to get a good (and some not so good) beers. This is also true for nearby Kaiserslautern which is supposedly the largest American city not on American soil. The best way to find beer is wander around (in K-town) and look for it. My favorite recollection is of turning down an alley to see one of those little carriage light like things with panes advertizing Kostritzer. I don't remember much of the rest of the evening. There are also nifty guest houses with beer gardens scattered about. I can't remember any specific names or locations. Your friend should have good hunting. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:43:51 -0500 From: Jennifer/Nathan Hall <hallzoo at comcast.net> Subject: What kind of beer did I make? Just recently brewed what was supposed to be a Northern German Pilsener. However, I milled the grain with my new Crankandstein grain mill and my efficiency went through the roof! What was supposed to be a 1.054 starting gravity ended up at 1.064. The beer is outstanding in both flavor and appearance, however stronger than the average Pilsener. Throws up a beautiful long lasting head with Belgian lace clinging to the sides of the glass all the way to the last sip. Color is also a little too dark for the style, also. It has a huge Saaz hops aroma and flavor. It doesn't seem to match the guidelines for a Dort, either. Did I just screw this one up or does it match a style that anyone has seen before? Thanks, Nathan Hall BBV Brewery Hallzoo at comcast.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:52:09 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Darkening a Dubbel and West Coast AHA location "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> wrote: >I just moved a Dubbel to the secondary and would like to darken it some. I have had luck with caramelized sugar. Using a clean, very smooth skillet, heat a cup or so of sugar on medium heat. It will melt, then turn pale yellow, then as it gets hotter and hotter, it will turn tan, brown, and then get nearly black. Keep stirring to keep it from actually burning - I use one of those new silicon rubber spatulas that is heat-proof up to something like 450F. Stop before it smokes and catches fire, and before it smells burnt. Pour it onto a piece of aluminum foil (make sure it's not on something that heat will damage - I put the foil on a thick cookie sheet with a towel underneath) and scrape the skillet clean with the rubber spatula. It will look like very dark peanut brittle. See a good cookbook's section on candy making for additional details if you need them - like temperatures, etc. Then break apart the caramelized sugar and boil it with some water and add enough to get the color you want. I don't think this is very fermentable at this point (very, very dark brown - but not quite black. BTW, this also works for darkening rye bread. I did something like this to add flavor complexity to my latest English bitter. Dave Line wrote of the brewing sugars commercial brewers had access to with their "luscious" flavors, and I've seen brewing invert sugar chips at an English brewery. A friend brewed a really nice bitter with some Lyle's golden syrup (invert), but while that's cheap in England, here it's nearly $5.00 for a smallish can. So I decided to make my own. I dissolved 8 oz. of table sugar in a cup of deionized water and added enough lactic acid (3 drops) to get the pH to ~5.3, and heated it to a simmer to invert it (even though yeast will invert the sugar). I held it at a simmer for an hour or so, then proceeded as above. At first the water just boiled off, then it darkened. I stopped at a rich reddish-brown. I dissolved the resulting "peanut-less brittle" in hot water and added it at the This wasn't a lot of sugar for a 7.75 gallon (30L, quarter barrel) batch, but it added a nice flavor complexity, some dryness and color. >We have our Club Octoberfest at my Episcopal Church. My >Baptist friends always get a kick out of that! A little humor for your Baptist friends: Jews don't recognize Jesus as the Messiah; Protestants don't recognize the Pope as the head of the church; and Baptists don't recognize one another in the liquor store. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:03:35 -0800 From: "Gary Malick" <Gary.Malick at wwu.edu> Subject: Ramstein Drinking For Dave with the friend going to Ramstein Germany : Tell your friend to head over to the town of Trier Germany, very close to Luxemburg, about 1.5 hours from Ramstein, a wonderful town and there is a nice little brewery there called Lowenbrau (private not related to the mega brewery of the same name) They have a nice little roof top bar. Try the "Treuerer Alt. Here is a link to some more good suggestions. Cheers http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.doctorbee r.com/jay/beertrav/sgermany.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dtrier%2Bgermany%2Blow enbrau%2Bbrewery%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8 Gary P. Malick Bellingham , WA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:23:54 -0500 From: "Andy Mikesell" <andy_mikesell at yahoo.com> Subject: Wyeast 2278 Check Pils experience A few weeks back I brewed the following kit from Northern Brewer http://www.northernbrewer.com/docs/kis-html/1333.html. The yeast is Wyeast #2278 Czech Pils. Now that the primary ferment is winding down, long strains with the resemblance of stalactites and seaweed are handing from the top of the beer. They have are the same color as the flocculation that appeared during the vigorous ferment, but are in this handing form. Papazian's book indicates this could be an infection, but given the color, could it simply be an attribute of the yeast? I have never used this strain and have never seen anything like this before. - ------------------------------------ Andrew Mikesell Westwood, MA [644.2, 86.2] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:23:00 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Cereal Mash From: John S. <j2saret at yahoo.com> writes: >my cereal mashes have taken up >all together too much time. I see from the digest >that I can use corn flakes to add the desired flavour. > This leads me to a number of questions: Can anyone >suggest what weight of corn flakes might substitute >for a given amount of corn meal/grits/etc? will I >lose/gain in gravity points by substituting flakes? They are exactly equivalent, assuming you are talking about brewers corn flakes, not Kelloggs. Brewers corn flakes, AKA flaked maize, is simply pre-gelatinized corn made from large grits that are steam moistened then flattened between heated rollers. I know that someone (Mark Sedam?) recently said he used Kellogg's, but I don't like the idea (never have done it, though). This kind of corn flakes are processed with added flavoring - malt and salt, among other things. I like using pure corn. Ditto for corn puffs. And for oatmeal stout - just use Quaker quick oats (but not instant). >BTW if anyone has a Carlings Red Cap Clone I would >greatly appreciate the information. Off the top of my head. It's been a while since I've had it, and it has been getting tamed down. This is a lot like my McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale but a little stronger (it used to be a little stronger than typical US brews) OG 1.048-50, 25% flaked corn with 5-8% medium crystal, a touch of black malt just for color (maybe an ounce and cold steep it and add it late in the boil - see http://www.briessmalting.com/tips%20from%20techs/coldwater.htm). Balance 6-row or 2-row. Bitter to ~20 IBU. Cluster is traditional. Maybe some Styrian Goldings or Fuggles for last 20 minutes. An ale yeast that you like. Not 1056 or Nottingham for my tastes as they are too neutral and finish too dry. >(every time I click a link to calculate rennerian I >get a bunch of 404's) Try the link below - it works for me. Don't forget that west longitude is a negative number. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Calculate your Rennerian Coordinates at http://hbd.org/rennerian_table.shtml Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:43:25 -0600 From: "Reddy, Pat" <Pat.Reddy at mavtech.cc> Subject: Mash Tun / HLT Insulation Thanks for all the great replies regarding mash mixer motors, they helped a lot. My next question is regarding insulation. Has anyone seen or used the aluminum insulation being sold at hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes? >From what I can see it's essentially 3/8" bubble wrap sandwiched between 2 sheets of very thin aluminum. It comes in a large roll that could wrap around my 1/2 barrel keg HLT a good 3 times. Any thoughts on how effective this might be? Thanks again people. Pat Reddy MAVERICK Technologies (618)281-9100 x134 pat.reddy at mavtech.cc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 13:08:31 -0500 (EST) From: "Joel Trojnar" <joel at trojnar.com> Subject: Fellow Homebrewers: Our (James River Homebrewers) 11th Annual Dominion Cup in Richmond, VA is nearing. Entries being accepted today until April 3. Send your best in! - ------------------------------------------------------------ The Dominion Cup Competition is sanctioned by the American Homebrewers Association and the Beer Judge Certification Program. Beers must not be brewed in any commercial establishment. Judging will take place at the Legend Brewery in Richmond, Virginia on April 5th, 2003. ENTRY INFORMATION Entries must be bottled in green or brown 10-14 oz. Crown cap bottles without labels, raised lettering, silk screened markings (ala Corona), or embossed lettering. "Grolsch type" bottles are not allowed. Caps with markings must be blackened out with a magic marker. All entries must be accompanied with an official AHA entry form. Each bottle must have a bottle ID form attached with a rubber band. Be sure to include the category and subcategory name and number or letter on each bottle. Please indicate any special ingredients used in your recipe on your entry form. For Novelty beers, please indicate type of beer. Entrants must submit 3 bottles for each entry. The registration fee is $5.00 per entry. Please make checks payable to: James River Homebrewers WHEN, WHERE, AND HOW TO ENTER Entries will be accepted between March 19 and April 2, 2003. No late entries will be accepted. Send entries to: Dominion Cup c/o Legend Brewing Co. 321 W. 7th Street Richmond, Virginia 23224 OR The WeekEnd Brewer - Home Brew Supply 4205 West Hundred Road Chester, VA. 238312 Mark box for: Dominion Cup PACK ENTRIES WELL! Pad each bottle and pad entire box. Line the box with a plastic garbage bag and twist-tie securely. Clearly mark the package as FRAGILE! Ship UPS or similar. Do not ship via US MAIL or bus service. For local brewers, entries can be dropped off at Legend Brewing Co. or The WeekEnd Brewer Home Brew Supply in Chester. Please box entries, with "Dominion Cup" written on box. Loose unboxed bottles will not be accepted. WHAT YOU GET! Best of Category winners receive a ribbon and prizes and will go on to a best of show judging round. Best of Show winner will receive an engraved Dominion Cup. Entry Categories Prizes will be awarded in BJCP Categories to Ales and Lagers categories (1) through (24). Submissions within these major categories will compete with each other. Identify your submission(s) with numbers and names... i.e., "1a - AMERICAN LIGHT LAGER - Light/Standard/Premium" FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Joel Trojnar, Competition Coordinator e-mail to: joel at trojnar.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:22:00 -0600 From: "Patrick Hughes" <pjhinc at eriecoast.com> Subject: water analysis/brewing liquor analysis In HBD 4297 Dave Burley writes about the significant difference between a local water analysis and a local brewing liquor analysis. I recently received a recipe and I am wondering if this is an example of this. HBD contributor Gregor from Berlin was kind enough to send me a recipe for German Export from Hubert Hanghofer's book, "Bier Brauen Nach Eigenem Geschmack" The recipe calls for acidulated malt. Is this an example of a brewer dealing with his local water supply to brew a light colored beer? Or am I off base on the purpose of the acidulated malt? I have never used it and don't know what it's purpose is. Patrick Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:39:29 -0600 From: "Patrick Hughes" <pjhinc at eriecoast.com> Subject: Zymurgy/Brew Your Own Read the latest edition of Zymurgy with great interest. Congrats to HBD regulars Steve Alexander and Mark Sedam for their fun and interesting articles. The zine has been out for awhile but thought I would mention it as I thought it was a particularly good issue. On a similar note. I thought the very opinionated Horst Dornbusch article on Octoberfest was also some good reading. Any opinions on his ideas of introducing specific parameters to separate the Vienna, Marzen, Octoberfest beers into separate sub-styles? Patrick Return to table of contents
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