HOMEBREW Digest #4335 Fri 29 August 2003


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Electric kettle control ("Dan Listermann")
  Gluten-Free Beer (Jonathan Royce)
  N2 or O2 Sensor ? ("Pete Calinski")
  Re:Electric Kettle Control ("Pete Calinski")
  re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  Question for Brew Crap Organizers (rickdude02)
  Re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone (Jeff Renner)
  Bubbles ("Dave Burley")
  San Jose pubs ("Bridges, Scott")
  Homebrewing in Sports Illustrated ("Paul Gatza")
  New to All Grain ("David Gates")
  re: you've got mail (John Coppens)
  Re: you've got mail (Scott Alfter)
  multiple yeasts/Dr Cone (Jim Busch)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:31:23 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Electric kettle control <Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:45:30 -0700 From: yax <yax75 at shaw.ca> Subject: Electric Kettle Control What is a good way of controlling your boil in an electric kettle? I was thinking about using just a stove rheostat, or else using two switches in line of the element. With both switches on 240 V would be supplied and with just one switch on only 120 V would be supplied. I have heard of some people using PID controllers, but this seems like overkill. Any suggestions would be great though. > I have had good luck using two elements with different wattages. Plugging in one, the other or both give me 3 levels of control. I am designing a new kettle that will have three different wattage elements. This should give me 7 levels of control. I am going to use switches this time. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 05:31:48 -0700 From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com> Subject: Gluten-Free Beer On 26 Aug AJ asked about celiac sprue and gluten-free beer. On r.c.b., there are several people who brew GF beers in order to work around celiac. Here are two recent threads to look at: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF- 8&threadm=BdQY7.159919%248w3.35047297%40typhoon.kc.rr.com&rnum=2&prev=/groups% 3Fq%3Dgluten%2Bfree%2Bgroup:rec.crafts.brewing%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8% 26oe%3DUTF-8%26group%3Drec.crafts.brewing%26selm%3DBdQY7.159919% 25248w3.35047297%2540typhoon.kc.rr.com%26rnum%3D2 http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF- 8&threadm=1e620d5e.0305282230.175e9418%40posting.google.com&rnum=8&prev=/groups% 3Fq%3Dgluten%2Bfree%2Bgroup:rec.crafts.brewing%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8% 26oe%3DUTF-8%26group%3Drec.crafts.brewing%26selm%3D1e620d5e.0305282230.175e9418% 2540posting.google.com%26rnum%3D8 Sorry for the long hyperlinks. You may have to cut/paste all five lines of each individually to get to the correct thread. This webpage is listed by one of the threads as well and looks (at first glance) as if it contains a good deal of info on exactly this topic: http://www.fortunecity.com/boozers/brewerytap/555/gfbeer/gfbeer.htm HTH, Jonathan Woodbury Brewing Co. www.woodburybrewingco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:06:10 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: N2 or O2 Sensor ? Dave asked, "Pete, Don't you mean you will see <oxygen> sensors where nitrogen ( and other gases) are stored? Nitrogen makes up 80% of air." Actually, I guess I don't know what the actual factor(s) were to activate the alarm. I became acquainted with these devices in two cases, one was a Scanning Electron Microscope that used liquid N2 for super-cooling and the other was an area where LN2 was stored. Both had a sensing and alarm device on the wall. I assumed that the device measured the N2 concentration and alarmed when it exceeded an acceptable level. Of course, it could have sensed the ratio of O2/N2 (typically 20%/78%) and alarmed when that was out of range. I just remember the lecture that said, "If the CO2 level gets too high, your lungs will start to burn but if the N2 level gets too high, you don't know it, you just drop over, ker-plunk." Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:23:32 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re:Electric Kettle Control I use an electric stove surface burner temperature controller. It isn't a rheostat, it is basically an On/Off device that uses an internal heater to control the On to Off time ratio. If a rheostat was used, the power not delivered to the burner would have to be dissipated in the rheostat. That would take a mighty big rheostat and make a lot of heat. If you do use the controller, I suggest you include some type of pilot light so you can tell when the controller is in the "on" state. Every controller I have seen includes a terminal for the pilot light. Hope this helps. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:37:51 -0400 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone Charley Burns from who knows where writes: I'm ready for my next attempt to try and clone old foghorn. Assuming 2-row or pale ale malt for 90% and 10% crystal, what is recommended mash temp and which yeast is recommended? I would suggest reading the article by Amahl Turczyn Scheppach in the July/August 2003 Zymurgy on Anchor Brewing. He has a clone recipe there for Old Foghorn. Mash temp is 148F and the yeast is California Ale yeast. Hops are 100% Cascade. The Anchor Brewing website also has info on their barleywine and they too say it is nothing but cascade hops and a "true top fermenting ale yeast". They also say they only use the first runnings. That would make a big difference IMHO. Here is the link to Old Foghorn on the Anchor website: http://www.anchorbrewing.com/beers/oldfoghorn.htm We make the beer we drink!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, Michigan (2.8,103.6) Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 06:50:33 -0400 (GMT) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Question for Brew Crap Organizers I certainly started to get caught up on my reading at an opportune moment. As local homebrewers will attest my brewhouse is a wreck. Even when it's at its neatest, though, I still have a problem with one particular piece of equipment. Does anyone have suggestions for storing a CF Chiller neatly? My problem is that it's home- made and easily flexes out of shape. Plus, with two ends going off at different directions and the cooling hoses, it gets awfully bulky. And don't tell me that I need to brace it to keep it from being too flexible-- it gets used on a variety of pots, so we (the brew club) regularly make slight adjustments to angles and such. Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:42:53 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone "Charley Burns" <charleyburns at sbcglobal.net> writes from an undisclosed location (but I remember that he's in California, I think NoCal): >I'm ready for my next attempt to try and clone old foghorn. > >This time I'll stick with northern brewer hops all the way through, even >though Michael Jackson thinks they use some cascade. Not only does MJ think they use Cascade, so does Fritz Maytag, or at least, whoever writes their publicity. http://www.anchorbrewing.com/beers/oldfoghorn.htm : "Old Foghorn is highly hopped, using only Cascade hops. ... is dry-hopped with additional Cascade hops while it ages in our cellars ... for over six months." >I used cascade last time but the gravity was so high (1.115) that >everything else was thrown off. I lost my notes so I don't know what >yeast it was, but it was probably wyeast 2112 (lager yeast >masquerading as an ale yeast). Again, not authentic, according to the same web page: "It is fermented with a true top-fermenting ale yeast." So now you're 0 for 2. :-) >Assuming 2-row or pale ale malt for 90% and 10% crystal, what is >recommended mash temp and which yeast is recommended? At barley wine gravities, I think residual sweetness and body are going to be there regardless. You probably should mash at a moderate temperature for full fermentability. This might be a good time to use a good quality dry yeast properly rehydrated since you want yeast in prime condition. Windsor (for more fermentation character) or Nottingham (more neutral) come to mind. Otherwise, any fully attenuating ale yeast should work, with American Ale (1056/001) a proven workhorse. I myself don't like it or Nottingham as I find them too neutral, but it's not my beer. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:24:26 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Bubbles Brewsters, /Fredik continues his bubble rate research on the assumption he can work out the kinetics. He even considers using a hydrometer, which is nearly useless mid-fermentation due to the carbon dioxide bubbles which cling to the hydrometer, giving false readings. Also the hydrometer readings are confused by the mixture of sugar and alcohol which occurs mid-fermentation. Don't waste your time. The only real way to determine fermentation progress is by watching the disappearance of the fermentable sugars directly. Clinitest kit can be used to determine the disappearance of reducible sugars as a good approximation. Any sucrose ( non-reducible) in the mash is converted pretty quickly to reducible sugars by external-to-the-yeast-cell invertase enzymes. Try that as part of your research to follow fermentation progress. Contact me offline for details. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:58:42 -0400 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: San Jose pubs It looks like I'll be in San Jose/Milpitas on business for a few days starting Sun Sept 7. I'd appreciate some pointers on good brewpubs and/or beer bars in the area. I'll be staying in Milpitas, so anything closer to there is better. I'll have a car. Thanks in advance, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:10:38 -0600 From: "Paul Gatza" <paul at aob.org> Subject: Homebrewing in Sports Illustrated Hi all. Association of Brewers marketing director Cindy Jones and I have been working with Sports Illustrated to support an upcoming article by Jeff Cox. The piece is on homebrewing and will publish in the "Homeowners" section on September 15th. This section of the magazine is dedicated to activities other than sports that SI readers are into. The catch is that only about one third of subscribers and newsstands get issues that will have this section. The concentration of distribution will be in suburban locations--so if you pick up the issue, you may want to see if it has the article. Paul Gatza Director American Homebrewers Association 736 Pearl St. Boulder, CO 80302 ph: +1.303.447.0816 ext. 122 fax: +1.303.447.2825 www.beertown.org - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.512 / Virus Database: 309 - Release Date: 8/19/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:28:34 -0700 From: "David Gates" <gates at pacificcoast.net> Subject: New to All Grain I have brewed a few batches of all grain without much success (through my own fault) and I have a question about the hot break. I am assuming it is hot break because this white flakey type stuff forms while I do the boil of the wort. Who do I get rid of this because it always seems to make it through right to the bottling/kegging point and takes forever to settle out. I never hear much about this subject so I really don't know what it is or what to do about it. Please help. David Gates Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 13:06:45 -0300 From: John Coppens <john at jcoppens.com> Subject: re: you've got mail On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:35:23 -0400 homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) wrote: > re: you've got mail Hi Scott, Pat I wouldn't be so sure that address harvesters don't parse the [&#102;&#111;&#111;] - type of obfuscation correctly. It _is_ part of the HTML specification, so why would a scanner ignore normal entities in a normal HTML document? Many HTML editors even code the at as &64; automatically. I agree with Pat's method here... John Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:32:17 -0700 From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us> Subject: Re: you've got mail On Thu, Aug 28, 2003 at 01:06:45PM -0300, John Coppens wrote: > On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:35:23 -0400 > homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) wrote: > > > re: you've got mail > > I wouldn't be so sure that address harvesters don't parse the > [&#102;&#111;&#111;] - type of obfuscation correctly. It _is_ part of the > HTML specification, so why would a scanner ignore normal entities in a > normal HTML document? Many HTML editors even code the at as &64; > automatically. If I'm not mistaken, address harvesters work with raw HTML, not HTML that's been parsed into text. While it is possible that they could parse character entities back into text (or could even use something like Lynx to parse the entire page into plain text), it's more efficient for them to just grab a page, search for "* at *.*", and move on if nothing else is found...for every obfuscated email address, there are 100 non-obfuscated addresses that they could target, and they'll see better results from pulling in as many webpages as possible and doing simple searches than by going over each page with a fine-toothed comb for anything that might be an email address (even picking up something like "* at * dot *"). No method, short of something like whitelisting or a Turing test, is perfect at blocking would-be spammers. Throwing up a minor hurdle will block a fair number of them, though. Scott Alfter scott at alfter.us Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, Aug 28 2003 13:59:25 GMT-0400 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: multiple yeasts/Dr Cone Chad writes: ****** On a large scale, it is impractical for commercial establishments to use more than one strain. Contamination would result as different batches passed through various equipment. You would in essence, have to make two entirely separate breweries in order to use two differentstrains on a continuing basis. ****** To which I retort, hogwash! Its not yeast you need to worry about so much in brewing, its bacteria and wild yeasts. At our micro, we always have multiple yeast strains going at the same time, American Ale, BelgianAle, German lager, all the time. In addition we sometimes have British Ale and German Weiss. Sometimes we also have experimental yeasts that are being evaluated for new beers. Proper sanitation is all thats required. Also, the larger the brewery, the more things are hard piped with built in CIP systems to be sure that piping is well sanatized. A big thanks to Dr Cone et al for taking time to helpout this community! I know I learned quite a few thingsfrom this discussion and am thankful to get the thinkingcap on again as a result. Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
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