HOMEBREW Digest #4391 Tue 04 November 2003

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  RE: Why I stopped Brewing (Michael Hartsock)
  Winning with extract... (Bev Blackwood II)
  Re: Rehydrating dry yeast?? ("Drew Avis")
  Re: DCL rehydration (Brian Lundeen)
  RE:  Beer in Philly area ("Houseman, David L")
  Why I stopped brewing - Cost part of the question (Lee Ellman)
  RE: toasting crsytal malt (Paul Shick)
  Re: Why I Stopped Brewing ("Steven S.")
  RE: Split Rock 2003 HB Competition ("Houseman, David L")
  Extract/Why I Brew (rickdude02)
  Re: Why I stopped Brewing: (Mark Kempisty)
  Thanks to All! (Tim Spencer)
  Grain Beetles & DE ("Doug Hurst")
  St. Sabastiaan's Microbrewery (R.A.)" <rbarrett@ford.com>
  Re: Beer in the Philly area ("Richard S. Sloan")
  Re: Why I stopped Brewing (Robert Sandefer)
  Re: Why I stopped Brewing ("Christopher Clair")
  Re: Rehydrating dry yeast?? ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day ("Gary Glass")
  Fridge Question ("Jay Spies")
  Dextrin Malt (Tim & Cindy Howe)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 06:27:09 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Why I stopped Brewing Many people have chimed in on this topic, but given that I have a different perspective, I figured I'd throw in my two cents. I think it can be more economical to brew your own, and it is party the reason why I do it. I have all the equipment I need right now to continue to make good homebrewed beer indefinitely for about $10-$12 for five gallons (all-grain). That's the economy of the final product. The hobby is a different story, since it is one of my hobbies, I keep improving my system, making my kegorator work and look better, and automating things as I can. Naturally, this costs money, but It is a choice I make as I have the extra money. But it is not the beer itself that costs so much extra. I often do crank out mass quanties of good cheap beer for special events, and always have my staples on tap (stout and APA) Take my other hobby, fishing. I could continue to fish the rest of my life for about $3 in bait (plus licenses and minor maintinence like hooks and line). But how many fishermen/women quit here? It is a matter of enjoyment... new rods, better reels... etc, but no one complains about the rising cost of fish fries. If you're looking for cheap, good beer, buy a a cheap turkey fryer and propane tank, a couple of free five gallon buckets, bottles from the recycling company, hardware store tubing, and your in business. You can get good kits with good yeast included for $20. If you're looking for a hobby, welcome to the fold. Good beer is one h#ll of a perk. michael Columbia, MO ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:48:53 -0600 From: Bev Blackwood II <bdb2 at bdb2.com> Subject: Winning with extract... Tim asked... > My main question: Can anyone relate an experience brewing an extract > that produced great results? Not from personal experience, but from firsthand knowledge of the beer & brewer... One of the members of the Foam Rangers produced a winning English Pale Ale from extract that not only took 1st place at the largest single site homebrew competition (Dixie Cup) but subsequently took 1st at MCAB V that year, where the best of the best compete head to head. Extract can not only produce good beer, it can produce award winning beer. -BDB2 Bev D. Blackwood II http://www.bdb2.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:52:17 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Rehydrating dry yeast?? Jim asks about rehydrating DCL yeasts. DCL does seem to recommend re-hydration, though not necessarily in water: <http://www.dclyeast.co.uk/DCL_Main/main_brewing/craftbrew/craftbrew_directi on.htm> Note that they recommend even the lagers be pitched warmer than 20C. I always (ok, almost always) rehydrate the lager strains in water. S04, T58 and K97, I just sprinkle onto the wort, and the stuff takes off - especially the S04. It could be nicknamed "monster yeast". However, I'm certainly pitching a very large amount to make up for any yeast dieoff from osmotic shock. Since the MoB buys DCL yeast in bulk periodically, we get very fresh stuff, which probably also makes a difference. Drew Avis ~ Ottawa, Ontario - -- http://www.strangebrew.ca "I can still recall old Mister Barnslow getting out every morning and nailing a fresh load of tadpoles to the old board of his. Then he'd spin it round and round, like a wheel of fortune, and no matter where it stopped he'd yell out, 'Tadpoles! Tadpoles is a winner!' We all thought he was crazy. But then we had some growing up to do. " Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:54:45 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: Re: DCL rehydration > Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 08:48:07 -0500 > From: "jim" <jimswms at cox.net> > Subject: Rehydrating dry yeast?? > > I heard a rumor that DCL (safale/saflager) does not recommend > rehydrating their dried yeasts. An ugly rumour, Jim and one that needs to be set straight. This comes right from the DCL web site: Rehydration Instructions 1. Add the dried yeast to approximately 10 times its own weight in water or wort at: 27C +/- 3C for Safbrew and Safale 23C +/- 3C for Saflager After a 15-30 minute rest, maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes. Pitch into FV. 2. Alternatively, progressively sprinkle the dried yeast into the FV providing that the temperature of the wort is above 20C. After a 15-30 minute rest, mix the wort using aeration. Back to me: I interpret this to mean, here's what you SHOULD do, but if you happen to be one of that segment of the home fermenting population that unfathomably seems too stupid to follow simple rehydration instructions, you can also get away with not doing it. IOW, they base their instruction set on the lowest common denominator, and recognize that NOT rehydrating is better than killing or maiming your little friends. Dried yeast work better when properly rehydrated. Enough to make a noticeable difference? I think that depends on your wort and fermentation conditions. A normal gravity ale will probably do just fine with sprinkling. As you get bigger and/or colder, seriously consider rehydrating and acclimatizing the yeast to its intended home by gradual introduction of wort into the yeast suspension till it gets down to within 10 degrees or so of the wort. Cheers Brian, still trying to thaw out in frigid Winnipeg after a weekend of grape crushing and pressing Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:19:26 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Beer in Philly area John, Given that you are in Newark, DE then you really have to go to Iron Hill. They have a places in Newark, Wilmington, West Chester and Media in PA. Independence brewing is in Philly. I suggest getting in touch with George Hummel at Home Sweet Homebrew in Philly since he's the purveyor of news for the beer scene in the area. And Beer Philadelphia may is dead since Jim Anderson moved to Scotland. Here's Jim's last missive: This week at Beer Philadelphia we're ululating over: BEER PHILADELPHIA R.I.P. Huh? How much more dead could this old horse get, you may ask. Plenty -- it's not that we're getting out of the beer business, it's just that after 20 years we're packing our bags and setting up shop outside of Philadelphia. Way outside. As of April 1, we will be moving permanently to the Highlands of Scotland to operate the Royal Hotel in Fortrose, just outside of Inverness. No kidding! Surrounded by tricky golf courses, 3000-year-old stone structures and real ale breweries, we'll be a few steps from the beach and a short drive to Loch Ness, Inverness Airport and the famed Whisky Trail. We'll have a restaurant, two cozy real-ale pubs and plenty of rooms, so come on up and visit us! For a peek at the operation, click here: http://www.beerphiladelphia.com/jep/att_1.htm As for the future of Beer Philadelphia, I'll be maintaining the Website, enhancing it with lots of new and old beer writings, and adding brand- new tasting notes from our adopted home. If you want to have a last drink together, come join us at one of these two gatherings: - -- Wednesday March 19 at Fergie's Pub in Philadelphia from 7:30- 9:30pm. http://www.fergies.com - -- Saturday March 22 at Split thy Brooklyn Skull 4 from 2-6pm http://www.beerphiladelphia.com/events/skulb_03.htm See you there! Yur pal -- - -- jim anderson Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:08:38 -0500 From: Lee Ellman <lee.ellman at cityofyonkers.com> Subject: Why I stopped brewing - Cost part of the question I went fishing yesterday. Caught a nice bass with my son and his best friend. Unit cost of the fish fillet we had? $200 a pound! Maybe more depending on how I expense all of my fishing gear, boat, car, etc. it took me to get to the lake to catch the little fillets! Was it worth the cost for the afternoon's fishing with a couple of good kids? Was it a good hobby dollar spent? Of course it was. I think the same about my brewing. I am pretty new to brewing - just a couple of years - and am still in the gee whiz stage. I continue to be amazed that I can get good taste, bubbles, and a nice head all in my little kitchen with just a few pieces of equipment. With any hobby I think you need to consider the amount of enjoyment you get out of it over the long haul. I enjoy fishing and brewing even when I am not on the water or drinking a beer. The time I spend thinking about the next fishing trip or what beer I am going to make next weekend has to be included in the calculus! On that basis I get hours of enjoyment out of my hobbies making the cost pennies a thought rather than dollars per bottle or per fish caught. Relax! Have the beer of your choice. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 08:49:08 -0500 From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu> Subject: RE: toasting crsytal malt Hi all, Andy Bailey asks about toasting a light crystal malt to get a darker one. Andy, this works quite well. In fact, you can make your own crystal malt, toasting it to the exact darkness you want, starting with pils or pale ale malt. See the archives for posts from Dan Listermann on how to do this. Many folks have written in over the years about how age adversely affects the falvor of crystal malts, far more than base malts. I agree wholeheartedly. An easy "cure" for older crystal and roasted malts is to bake them in the oven for about 10 minutes at 300-350F, which seems to be about the right amount of heat and time to "freshen" them up, without adding too much more roast character. This is now my standard procedure, whenever making a beer with anything darker than about 30L grains in it. The reroasted grains seem to bring more to the beer than larger quantities of older grains, without adding any more "bite". Give it a try. Paul Shick Cleveland Hts, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:56:41 -0500 (EST) From: "Steven S." <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Why I Stopped Brewing I think the better question is why you start in the first place. Sadly this year i've been on a bit of a brewing hiatus. With the purchase of a new house, other activities intrude. When I lived in an apartment I didn't have to take time to paint trim, mow lawn, or build out a brewery in the basement. So Why I Started Brewing? 1) It is cheaper, until you get the equipment habit. 2) I can brew beer I can't buy in Georgia 3) I can brew beer that is better than most of what I can buy 4) Pride in production, there IS a nice feeling when your friends like your homebrew better than store bought. 5) A Kegerator just looks b*tchin 6) Fresh hops just smell good 7) Fermentation is just a facinating process 8) There is nothing quite like explaining a mysterious sticky spot on the kitchen floor to SWMBO. "No I didn't spill any wort!" 9) Homebrew makes excellent xmas, birthday and wedding gifts which they will appreciate more than a store bought trinket. and finally 10) With four 5 gallon kegs full of beer I can survive any distaster that might strike with the exception of running out of CO2. Who needs food when you have beer? Steven St.Laurent :: www.403forbidden.net [580.2,181.4] Rennerian :: steven at 403forbidden.net Beer, it does so much but asks so little! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:39:56 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Split Rock 2003 HB Competition Last call for the Split Rock Homebrew Competition on November 22nd, 9am promptly, at the Split Rock Resort in the Poconos of Pennsylvania in conjunction with their annual Micro Brew Festival. Judging will be on Saturday AM, November 22nd. Entry fees, $5, will go to the Make-A-Wish Foundation. This is a sanctioned competition and will use the standard BJCP/AHA style guidelines judging all beer, mead and cider styles. Entries should be shipped to The Resort at Split Rock, One Lake Drive, Lake Harmony, PA 18624, Attention: Shelly Kalins Lutz, for receipt from November 12 to November 19. Two (2) brown or green bottles with no markings are required; please no glue or tape on the bottles -- just secure bottle identification with rubber bands. Any standard 8.5x11 entry forms identifying the brewer and the appropriate entry category/subcategory are acceptable. Any standard homebrew competition entry and bottle identification forms are acceptable. Judges and Stewards will be needed and they should contact me or Shelly Kalins Lutz [srinfo at splitrockresort.com] to secure a position. Judges and Stewards may hand carry their entries if they pre-register with payment and show up at least 1/2 hour early. Checks should be made out to The Resort At Split Rock. Judges will receive an entry to the beer festival or entry to the beer dinner for their efforts and need to indicate which they wish when they commit to participate. The BOS winner will receive a complementary weekend for two at next year's Split Rock Beer Fest. But just entering makes you a winner for helping a good cause. More information will be available at the Split Rock web site (http://www.splitrockresort.com/gba_homebrew.html). David Houseman Competition Organizer david.houseman at verizon.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:09:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Extract/Why I Brew I think Tim is getting way more on this topic than he ever expected... And now my own $0.02: I started brewing for the same reason as Tim-- there were no good brews available in Memphis about 12 years ago. I had mixed results with extract and pretty quickly made the jump to all-grain. Then, after moving to NC, I hooked up with a bunch of other brewers via the homebrew club. Brewing then became much more a function of being social and sharing skills than it was trying to make beers that I'd never seen before. And now, having two young sons, my own brewing reasons seem to have changed again. Although I enjoy hanging out with the guys when brewing is going on, I really don't have the time that I once did. Time to return to extracts-- and I learned something that I'd been hearing about for a while: The quality of extracts is soooo much better than it once was! I am certainly brewing for reasons of economy now, but I also actually enjoy my own beer more than a number of other commercial beers out there. Most recently I brewed a 15 gallon batch using extract, hops, a small amount of specialty malt, and dry yeast. (I know many HBD'ers are gagging at the thought of dry yeast, but it works well for me, and since I never know when I'll get 2 hours to brew, it's really the best thing to have around.) I think the cost of that batch was about $50 - $60. Obviously it was no-frills, and I keg (thank God!) so I don't have the expense of bottlecaps, but that works out to around $8 a case on the high end for beer that I prefer. Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 10:40:54 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <mskhbd at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Why I stopped Brewing: Time Spencer notes that he stopped brewing based upon what it costs him to brew two cases verses just buying six packs of his favorite micros. I have been asked many times why I homebrew and besides for the joy of creating the brew, the other part is cost, well kind of... Tim says six packs cost him $5 to $6, that's $20 to $25 for a case. Since I live in Pennsylvania I have to go to an establishment licensed to serve alcohol by the drink to get a six pack (a bar normally). The ones around me don't have extensive selections and they all charge a premium. More like $7 a six pack for micro brews. Beverage distributors are better and a case of micro brew is around $18. So two cases are $36. Now a typical batch I brew runs me $20 to $25 for ingredients. (Expect for a sack of grain, I buy all my supplies locally.) So for the beers I like, I'm saving $11 to $16. But, I'm not factoring in the cost of propane for the cooker or my time. Propane alone narrows the gap by $3 or so and if I factored in my time, I'd give up the hobby because no way am I coming out ahead. But, that's what it is, a hobby. You do it for personal enrichment and if you just happen to be able to turn it into a career, all the more power to you. Brew-on Mark Richboro, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 07:47:57 -0800 (PST) From: Tim Spencer <spencer_tim at yahoo.com> Subject: Thanks to All! All I can say is *WOW*! I received many replies, both here and by email on my Why I Stopped Brewing post in HBD 4389. Thanks to all - I really appreciate it! I received may great tips on purchasing extract and was pointed to 2-3 online shops where I can get decent kits in the $25 range. Much better than I expected. Many suggested giving all-grain a go; and I may, but, before I do, I want to try an extract batch or two using the three main tips I received. 1. Use DME as opposed to liquid extract. 2. Use liquid yeast (I know many of you told me dry is just as good these days, so I may try that next). 3. Use fresh extract in bulk if you use liquid - much fresher than canned extract. As I found a shop near me in Annapolis, MD that sells liquid in bulk, I may give them a try. Looks like you got me hooked again-will report back on results. Thanks all! Tim Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 11:47:45 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <dougbeer2000 at hotmail.com> Subject: Grain Beetles & DE Dave Burley wrote: "I sincerely doubt if diatomaceous earth will kill any grain beetles, but would like to see some documented proof." Here's a link to a study which was done in Canada with Rusty Grain Beetles in Barley where they applied a DE mixture called Protect-It. "Using the probe pitfall traps, there was a 95% or greater decrease in the total number of insects caught in the Protect-ItTM treated barley, compared to the untreated barley, for all sampling dates." http://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/research/ardi/projects/98-063.html Here's a link to a PDF document of a study done at KSU on two species of Flour Beetles. http://bru.gmprc.ksu.edu/pdf/713_EcEn_93.526.pdf Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [197.5, 264.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:56:50 -0500 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: St. Sabastiaan's Microbrewery Last week I asked if anyone had been to the new microbrewery in Springhill, Florida. Manny from Clearwater, Florida responded on October 30 with a very nice write up. We stopped twice on Friday, October 31. First for just beers and a short tour and then later that night for dinner and more beer. Manny's descriptions of the beer are excellent and I agree with him on everyone. I would also add that the 1731 Dark has a very pleasant caramel flavor and is slightly sweet. Novice light - light golden lager similar to Stella about 3.5% ABV Spring hill blond - unfiltered ale similar to Leffe Blond about 5% ABV 1731 dark - double style with a light malt flavor about 5.5% ABV Food was excellent along with the service. The only think I was not able to do was get a sample of their yeast. Maybe next time. Very much worth a visit. The 4th beer, a specialty, has not been brewed yet. The brewers did not know what it would be, but suspected something for Christmas. We make the beer we drink!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, MI (2.8, 103.6) Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:22:24 -0800 From: "Richard S. Sloan" <rssloan at household.com> Subject: Re: Beer in the Philly area john biggins asked: >>Hey guys...just moved to Newark, DE and was wondering >>what the good places to get beer, particularly micros & brewpubs. If you are looking for bars, pubs, beer stores, home brew stores, etc., in a particular city, check the beerfly section at beeradvocate.com http://beeradvocate.com/beerfly/ I always check it before heading to a town on business or vacation to make sure I know where to go for good beer. There is also an events section listing fests, dinners, competitions http://beeradvocate.com/events/calendar.php Richard Sloan La Cerveceria Casa Perro San Diego, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 13:52:47 -0500 From: Robert Sandefer <melamor at vzavenue.net> Subject: Re: Why I stopped Brewing Several of yesterday's posts responding to Tim's lament seem to try to suggest that economy is not a reason to homebrew. I find this odd. To my way of thinking, there are four major reasons someone could choose to homebrew: 1. To have fun; to enjoy the process (i.e., the person likes to brew) 2. To save some money (My brewing expenses divided by production is about $0.75 per 12-fl-oz bottle over the last year, and that is cheaper than I can get any micro.) 3. To make products that are rare in or absent from commercial production 4. To suit one's own tastes; to make beer to please the brewer. Any one of these is a suitable reason to brew, although I do agree that having more than one reason will keep a brewer in the hobby better. Personally, I started because of reasons 3 and 4 and found out about reason 1, but I don't see any harm in keeping an eye on the bottom line. Anyway, to answer Tim's question: I can indeed relate favorable experiences in using extract. I agree with Tim Howe that Munton's dry malt extract is tasty. I steep Briess specialty grains, use light Munton's dry extract, do partial-wort boils, and pitch White Labs yeast (sometimes without a starter; other times from a previous batch's slurry). My base recipe for robust porter (my favorite) is: 6 lbs Munton's light dme 1 lb 80L crystal malt .5 lb black patent 3 oz Cascade hops pellets (at 60, 30, and 5 min till end of boil) White Labs Irish ale yeast (because I like the results) 6 fl oz corn sugar (priming) This is a delicious recipe imho and I prefer this beer to any and every commercial porter I have ever tasted. Great variations include: a ginger ale (by adding 3 oz grated fresh ginger to the start of the boil) and a raspberry porter (by steeping 5.25 lbs raspberries at the end of the boil). Hope this helps. Robert Sandefer Arlington, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 15:32:00 -0500 From: "Christopher Clair" <buzz at netreach.net> Subject: Re: Why I stopped Brewing Tim, I have yet to switch over to all grain brewing. I have been doing extract and partial mashes for about 5 years now and firmly believe that you can make extract beers that stack up well with all grain. I have produced beers that people have loved, have won competitions, even qualified for MCAB, all with extract. You just need to use good, fresh ingredients, have an understanding of those ingredients, and a good brewing process (come to think of it, this is good advice for ANY type of brewing). Old or poorly stored extract will have negative impact on your beer. You are also at the mercy of the extract producer when it comes to fermentables in the extract (control is a HUGE advantage of all grain). Even with fresh ingredients you can produce lackluster beers. A lot of people just grab a kit off the shelf or a recipe off of a website. There are a lot of mediocre kits and even more disappointing recipes out there. That is why I learn about ingredients and design my own, trying to get all my color from specialty grains and always using unhopped extract with fresh hops. I pretty much stick to liquid yeast so I can't comment on dry yeast quality (though I have had some good ones made from dry at my club). Finally, process can mean everything when it comes to quality. You need to understand the whys of brewing to understand how to improve or what to repeat. Moving to all grain but still having a bad process will not yield a much improved product. Part of being a home brewer is a quest for knowledge. If you are trying to brew it so you can save some money, than this is not the hobby for you. But if you brew it, aren't happy with it, then try to understand why so you can try it again, then this is something you should try to pick up again. Good luck and hope you pick it up again. Christopher Clair West Chester, PA http//hbd.org/buzz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:30:14 -0600 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: Rehydrating dry yeast?? > I heard a rumor that DCL (safale/saflager) does not recommend rehydrating > their dried yeasts. I'm just wondering if this is true, and what everybody > thinks? I can believe it. there are dry baking yeasts available that do not > require rehydration. I plan on using some Safale S04 soon, and would like to > hear from others. This was contrary to everything authoritative I've ever read about using dry yeast, so I looked at the DCL web site. Their "Directions for Use" indicate rehydration with water is optional <http://www.dclyeast.co.uk/DCL_Main/main_brewing/craftbrew_index.htm> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:47:41 -0700 From: "Gary Glass" <Gary at aob.org> Subject: Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day I hope everyone had a great time on Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day last Saturday. We had a blast at our site in Boulder, CO where the Fine Living Network sent a crew down to film us. Look for the show coming in Spring of 2004--hopefully it will help to bring in even more new homebrewers. Be sure to fill out the remittance form at www.beertown.org/events/teach/index.html so we can track the success of the event. Your numbers help us to promote Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day to the media, which in turn helps us to bring in new homebrewers, which then helps to keep this hobby going by bringing new customers to the homebrew supply shops and new members to the homebrew clubs--nice run on, eh? Thanks for your participation! Gary Gary Glass, Project Coordinator American Homebrewers Association 888-U-CAN-BREW (303) 447-0816 x 121 gary at aob.org www.beertown.org Boulder, CO [1126.8, 262] Rennerian - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.534 / Virus Database: 329 - Release Date: 10/31/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:58:42 -0500 From: "Jay Spies" <jayspies at citywidehomeloans.com> Subject: Fridge Question All - First, thanks for the many replies to my question on SafLAGER dried yeasts - used them on Sunday to pitch into 10 gallons of North German Pilsner wort....we'll see how it turns out. Now, on to my question: I have a dedicated refrigerator for fermentation and for this particular batch I have it set for 48 degrees. Things seem to be bumping along nicely. My problem is this: my fridge has a hard time getting down below about 38 degrees for cold conditioning (I use a Ranco controller to cycle the fridge...) The freezer compartment is for the most part unused during fermentation (and most other times as well). Since my coolant lines run up the back of the fridge, would it be problematic to cut a 2" or so hole in between the freezer and fridge compartments to let the cold freezer air flow down into the fridge and basically turn the whole thing into a freezer? The Ranco would prevent freeze-ups (the sensor sits in a thermowell that's immersed in the wort). When I'm dropping beers to 32 to floc out the yeast and condition, I could open the hole up, and when I want to keep the fridge warmer I'd plug it up with a big stopper or something. PVC pipe cut to size and cemented in place in the hole would keep moisture from getting to the insulation..... Any reason anyone can thnk of why this scenario wouldn't work? I'm basically an idiot on how a refrigerator works, so anyone versed enough in fridge tech to help me out with some info or to poke holes in my ideas would be appreciated... Don't want to cut a hole in my refrigerator and then have to ask the collective "Is My Fridge Ruined?" TIA, Jay Spies Charm City Altobrewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 22:48:45 -0500 From: Tim & Cindy Howe <howe at execulink.com> Subject: Dextrin Malt A few years back (when the Big Brew was the SNPA clone) I needed some dextrin malt, and the local HBSS sourced some for me. This stuff looked like rock salt on the inside - crystal malt with no colour - and it made great beer, for those recipes where you want the sugar but no colour. I used it in a few recipes.....but, when I went to get more, none was to be had, and long story short, this shop is now a Walmart. So the question is, has anyone stumbled across this stuff, know who malts it, and where it can be purchased? I've tried the carafoam which has been touted as a replacement for dextrin/carapils but I don't like it nearly as well. Any help appreciated.... Thanks, Tim Return to table of contents
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