HOMEBREW Digest #4520 Wed 14 April 2004

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  competition scoresheets etc ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Re: RE:re: Fix and the 40C Rest ("-S")
  Refrigeration Question ("Sandy Macmillan")
  Re: Enzyme Liquification process vs Starch liquification ("Fredrik")
  er: Pitching Cold Yeast into Cold Wort ("-S")
  er: Temp of fermeting wort, low T mash ("-S")
  Re: Question About Hot Trub and pumps (Fred Johnson)
  Re: Temp of fermeting wort, low T mash ("Dave Burley")
  Location, location, location (Kevin Elsken)
  Temperature bands ("Dave Burley")
  Mash Thickness (Bill Gornicki) (gornicwm)
  Overnight mashing (Michael)
  First All Grain.... (Inland-Gaylord)" <BrianSmith1@templeinland.com>
  Safale attenuation (Mark Beck)
  Voter apathy? (BJCP Communication Director)
  Controlling temperature of fermeting wort ("Dave Humes")
  RE: question about hot trub and pumps (Steve Funk)
  Buna-N o-rings (John Mitchell)
  Fat Tire in LA area? ("Dave Draper")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 00:00:48 -0400 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: competition scoresheets etc Jim Bermingham posted on a topic very near and dear to me. I know of competition organizers who have never mailed back judging results and who have never submitted judge participation forms to the BJCP. Fie! Fie! Fie! If I pay my $5 or $6 to enter a competition then I deserve the judges' feedback. If I judge in a competition, then I expect the organizers to send my form to the BJCP. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY hbd.org/ensmingr - --- In HBD #4519: I think I finally know why I didn't bring back the gold from the Bluebonnet brewoff. My beer was just too good! My beer must have been so good that the judges, when tasting such a golden elixir that I had produced, couldn't get enough of it and drank all three bottles. Then realizing what they had done, destroyed all evidence of my having entered into the contest. I know that this must be the case because I haven't received my score sheets. The Bluebonnet was healed on March 19-20 and the score sheets were to be mailed out the next weekend. I haven't received my score sheets so I just know that my beer was the best and I would have won the gold if it hadn't been for the thirsty judges. Bev Blackwood's beer won only because his was the best of what was left. Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX - --- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 00:27:30 -0400 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: RE:re: Fix and the 40C Rest Steven, Sven Pfitt writes ... >... chill haze .... I'm aware of no impact of chill haze on flavor > which it my primary concern. I agree. I've spent spent a lot of time trying to avoid chill hazes. Several times I've celebrated my victory only to be laid-low by a different sack of malt from the same maltster or some other innocuous change to my mash. Too much haze prevention certainly ruins a beer. I prefer a clear beer in most styles, but it's unimportant compared to body and flavor. The folks who are repulsed by haze are also repulsed by real beer flavor, so let's not cater to them. > More to the point, what do you find detremental in overnight mashes? Or is > it just a matter of inconvienence? It has absolutely nothing to do with convenience. Good quality sweet wort has a fresh flavor and this freshness is greatly diminished over an extended period of time. It tastes dull after a few hours and the effect isn't very subtle. When I used to do decoctions I noticed this impact was pretty remarkable in the thin mash that was sitting around for 45 minutes or an hour at relatively low temps. Wort gets stale. It may have some 'sparkle' early-on but it becomes bland in a short while. I have to say that the ferment improves the freshness of any wort to an astonishing degree, but I can't believe that early wort damage can ever be reversed - just masked. I think the wort damage is due to oxidation processes. It also seem that a small amount of sulfite reduces the flavor effect quite markedly. It's hardly a surprise - our tiny little 5 & 15 gallon mash tuns have loads of surface area with air exposure per volume compared to big commercial mash tuns. HBers regularly transfer the mash to separate sparge vessels and expose the wort to loads of oxygen in the process. You could taste and see the damage as phenoic oxidation (browning) if you handled white grape juice or fresh cider that way. Given the enzyme content I suspect the wort damage is just as significant. Morten Meilgaard, well known beer flavor researcher and a student of Jeff Renner, (care to 'splain that one Jeff ?;^) ... Morten reviewed the topic brewery innovations including oxygen exclusion methods with the primary criterion of assessing whether there was solid data that showed these methods improved flavor. He concludes that the evidence of mash oxygenation induced flavor problems on commercial scale brews is unclear, but the place where the evidence is more clear is in small <200L lab brews. He also notes that several of the innovations studied produce uncertain results but ... "All other factors aside, a shorter brewing process would be expected to produce a cleaner flavor and more reproducible brews." [JIB v107, #5, pp271-286, 2001, "Effects on Flavour of Innovations in Brewery Equipment and Processing: A Review"] In that same paper Meilgaard reviews studies of beers a special anti-oxidant malt (made similar to very light caramel or carapils as I understand it) and the data clearly shows that flavor improves with inceasing abounts of this malt. Van den Berg and Eerde studied the use of 50ppm of sulphite (an anti-oxidant and flavor stabilizer) to the mash tun and found this improved the final beer flavor and gave faster runoff.[Proc.Conv.Inst.Brew.Australia&NZ, Perth 1982, pp70]. I don't have a reference handy, but some of the Wehenstephan researchers have suggested smaller sulphite additions to the mash (20 or 30 ppm as I recall). > -Steve, What negative effects to you feel this will have on beer quality of > the small batch? The impact on the final beer is a subtle lack of certain positivie flavors. Less maltiness, greater astringency duller flavor overall. You may also find that some well know and severe forms of staling damage (cardboard aldehyde development for example) are greater after a long mash and aging, but this depends on may factors. > Although I admit that the small batch is always a lower gravity beer and it > does not last more than two months in a keg, so I probably do not have the > time to see any effects that would show up due to aging. I think you'll see a difference on day one - you don't need to wait to see it. Of course if you wait the difference may become greater. === As kind of a freshness tutorial ... we humans constantly judge the freshness of the foods we eat. It's an evolutionarily honed survival skill. There are at least hundreds and more likely tens of thousands of specific chemicals that we taste as "stale". Oxidized oils are particularly obnoxious and clear-cut. Some oxidized oils are directly responsible for "fishy" aromas while others give a "stale nut" or even rancid aroma. Adults enjoy some level of fresh unoxidized phenolics (fresh greens, coffeee, tea), but children reject phenolic rich foods like spinach as these may interfere protein uptake which is most important in children. We all reject the bitter flavor of stale oxidized phenolics from stale leafy greans, stale tea. The oxidized phenolics and loss of ascorbic acid in a browning slice of apple clealry makes the fruit far less desirable. Gelatinized carbohydrates stale in a particular manner called retrogradation (think stale bread) - this makes the carbohydrate non-nutrative and objectionable. There any loads of more subtle and less easiily defined changes as food stales. Many involve carbonyl formation .. (aldehyde formation for example) and in some cases browning reactions (which are not the same as caramelization nor Maillard reactions). The carbonyl formation is halted by sulfite. The human perception of staling is intended to warn us of aged, unfit food [apart of infection issues]. Most of these rely on some sort of oxidation product as a 'trigger' or proxy for age. If you are having a problem getting your mind (or your tongue) around the issue of what flavor changes are taking place in an extended mash - I'd suggest you find some fresh fruit juice then try slowly heating and re-cooling a sample (say 60C for 15+ minutes) - then compare. It's not the same, but it's a good flavor analogy. === The good news is that a solution (or great improvement) is easy. Either drop ~25ppm of sulphite into the mash or else find some way to cover the mash surface overnight and greatly reduce the oxygen access. I often use sulphite (available at any winemaking shop) for pale beers and some others here have also reported good resuilts with this. Don't overdo it. Another approach is to float a layer of saran wrap over the mash surface before you put it away for the night. In a pale beer mash you will see a noticably lighter color beer from either method ! -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 05:52:28 +0100 From: "Sandy Macmillan" <scotsman at intonet.co.uk> Subject: Refrigeration Question Kevin asks 1) Is there a minimum amount of time the compressor should be on? That is, once the refrigerator kicks on, how long should it stay on? Or, can it be shut off quickly without stressing the refrigerator? 2) Is there a minimum amount of time the compressor should remain off between cycles? 3) Are there any other control parameters that should be set to extend (or rather, not shorten) the life of the refrigerator? I have built a few temperature controlled fermentors using small freezer compressors and having burnt one out I can offer the following : The trick to controlling small compressors in refrigeration is not the run time but the OFF period. I would suggest that the minimum off time should be about 10 minutes to allow the capillary tube to balance out the pressures in the system I would like to see a run time of over 20 minutes for the ON cycle to allow the compressor to warm up and operate satisfactory. I would suggest that you set you temperature requirement so that you have about 2C or 4F degrees between the on and off setting. This normally gives timings that are consistent with the above.. If you have a large mass to cool then you can go to 1C or 2F degree differential, but watch the off cycle timing. Hope this helps Sandy Macmillan - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.654 / Virus Database: 419 - Release Date: 06/04/2004 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 08:06:28 +0200 From: "Fredrik" <carlsbergerensis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Enzyme Liquification process vs Starch liquification Hello Steve, Thanks alot for your excellent comments. You have inspired me to improve a few things in the model. I tried to account for the mash thickness but I realized that you are right that I may need to account for the loss of water too, also I will try to account for the limited enzyme process possibly occuring the in the gel. I got another idea too regarding the 40C rest while reading the other threads.I haven't tried any of this in practice yet but I have two ideas on the 40C rest. 1) At first I though it was the breakdown of beta-glucans that improved perhpas both gelatination and the liquification of the gel? but then I did some reasearch and found that while unmalted barley has some 3-10% beta-glucans, malted barley typically has some 0.1-2%. If it is as low as 0.1% and you still benefit from the 40C rest the explanation seem do be elsewhere at least in part? 2) Then I came to think of how I do when I cook rice and got another idea on the hydration. I ususally preboil the rice a little bit just so the rice softens, then I pour off the liquid and starta new boil in new water. I foun that this gives me a less sticky rice and a more uniformly cooked rice. The idea is that if you plot the gelatination vs progress rather than vs time, it seems likely to think that the progress is veryt slow in the beginning before the grain is moisturised. Possibly because a moistured grain has a better heat conductivity and than that of dry grains? I'm going to put this into the simulation later and see what the result is. If this is true then the 40C might serve as a pre moisturieser to get passs the slow part of the gel process without start burning the enzymes too early. It would moisturize at 60C as well but then one is also staring to fry enzymes. This seems supported by the increase of fermentability on the 40C rest? I read an old test http://realbeer.com/spencer/Experiments/yield-and-fermentability.html and played with the numbers and it seems from this that the improvement on the 40C rest is more than the improvement on mashout. The article doesn't reveal anything about the extent of stirring, which I think may have a large impact? Even if the stirring is the same, it would matter alot to the other conclusions if it was almost no stirring or continous stirring? > Biochem and Biophysics (one in v284 No.2, pp298-305, 1991) Steve, I tried to locate that article but I can only trace the archives back to 1995? > So back to Frederick's question - at or above gelatinization temp both forms > of starch become rapidly available for hydrolysis ... in a few minutes. > M&BS pp 282 shows by graph that in 15 minutes at 65.5C essentially all the > available extract is in the wort. Does this assume instant dissolving of the gel? Like continous strong stirring? If not 15 mins sounds really fast to me? I am assuming the gel is a bit sticky, and stirring would then probably make a big difference? > Very, nice Fredrik. Obvious the activity scale isn't the same for BA and > AA, as there is something like 20X as much AA activity as BA activity at > peak. I don't think the average HBer realizes how much excess AA is > available and how little BA on a relative basis in the mash. Yes I am assuming a ratio AA:BA =25:1 I found as a reference somewhere. I'm not sure what the exact value is, it will probably vary anyway, so the ballpark is enough for now. Got to goto work I'm late dang :) /Fredrik Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 02:59:08 -0400 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: er: Pitching Cold Yeast into Cold Wort John Kennedy asks not what his yeast can do for him, but what he can do for his yeast ... >My question is, my wort is at 2C (61F) ready for cold break removal, can I >pitch the liquid yeast into an oxygenated starter of the same tempture, Well 2C is 35.6F. I'll assume your Celsius figure is correct. Actually pitching yeast at or below the fermentation temp is the BEST policy under most circumstances. Yeast build more of the important growth lipids in colder environs but only when oxygen is available in early fermentation. If instead you pitch yeast into wort above their operational temp then those yeast lack the important lipids and could have lower alcohol tolerance, produce greater amounts of fusels and esters and be subject to cold shock. There are limits. I don't have any problem w/ pitching LAGER yeast into 2C wort, but for ALE yeasts I think 10C or 12C is a better starting point. Ale yeast simply can't operate at 2C. >providing both are the same temperature, and let them rise to the correct >tempture...? That's the other thing. If your yeast already have less of the important lipids (UFAs primarily) they can experience cold shock in a temperature transition to a lower temp. If the temps are equal I wouldn't expect a problem - just a slow but nice start due to the temps. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 04:39:58 -0400 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: er: Temp of fermeting wort, low T mash Dave Burley >I still use a low T mash ( and did before I heard of G. Fix) as I found it >allows the malt to get thoroughly wetted out and hydrated so that the enzymes >can do their work at higher temperatures. If you mean it prevents "balling" during the dough-in, I agree, but I find that's seldom a problem with 1.5qt/lb or more. >I basically disagree with the C. Papazian attitude ( repeated by SteveA) to I've never read this from CharlieP, so I'm certainly NOT repeating him. >add additional malt to make up for mashing inefficiencies, The topic was George Fix' mash schedule and I reported what Fix wrote in AoBT pp30. Fix states that instead of his 3 step(40/60/70C) mash schedule, that adding more malt to account for the lower efficiency in a single infusion works well. Fix writes that, "we found little difference between the finished beer quality of a single-infusion mash and a three temperature mash". You're welcome to disagree, but my point is clear - the guy who devised and advocated the complex three step method found it had no advantage, merely an efficiency advantage. Note that George advocated both of these procedures for low protein well modified 2-row malts only. His 50/60/70 schema was intended for less modified malts. > as I feel doing a >good mashing job brings with it additonal flavors ( perhaps the melandoins >Steve speaks about) and mouthfeel. Certainly not melanoidins ... My own split no-sparge vs 1st sparge tests show clearly that the melanoidins(color) and related Maillard flavor compounds come out disproportionately in the early runnings. Unlikely extra mashing helps. Mashing impacts mouthfeel certainly - but modern malts require little help and any extra time in the 45-55 range is only likely to damage head/body/mouthfeel. There certainly may be exceptions. >I have never really had a problem with a short low T rest giving head >formation problems. Then you haven't tried. Take a good PA malt (Munton, or Crisp for example) and rest it 15 min at 50C - you'll find the body severely damaged. Such a rest is seldom helpful for any all-malt beer. You're likely to find the same result from the very high SNR% lager malts from the likes of Durst & Weissheimer. If you don't believe your eyes then review the textbooks and lit where they discuss modern (post 1990) malts: See Kunze pp 199 "A long rest at 50C(122F) always therefore results in poor foam". pp 209, "The protein in malt is often highly modified. If such a malt is given a long rest at 50C there is a risk otheat too much ...protein will be degraded.. The beer then tastes empty and insipid and the foam stability is poor". Kunze goes on to suggest that low rests can be entirely eliminated unless the malt is poorly modified. He suggests mash-in at 58C-62C(136-143F) instead. In a later section (pp213...) Kunze discussion infusion mashing and points out that a mash-in of 35C and a "normal" temp rise rate of 1C/min causes a 27minute time to hit 62C, and this slow rise (10 minutes in the 45C-55C range) can cause "excessive protein and beta-glucan breakdown ... worse foam". He suggests mash-in of 58C. On decoction (pp216) Kunze examines two traditional decoction schedules and announces that because of the low temps (35C/50C & 50C) and "there is extensive protein and b-glucan breakdown. As a result palate fullness and foam formation suffer and the beer produced is insipid. It's taste can only be partly restored by addition of dark malt (Munich malt). Kunze suggest a two-step decoction that starts at a 62C mash-n ! Kunze cites SNR% of 40%+-1% as a typical Pilsner malt spec !!! That's very high compared to traditional, but many malts are higher 44%-46% ! Dingeman Pilsner malt take the prize at 48% SNR% ! Ludwig Narziss made the same point in Brauwelt about a decade ago. The jist is translated in the HBD archive. If the mainstream German brewing sources eschew sub 58C(136F) rests for their malts because it damages head & body I'd have to see some solid evidence to convince me otherwise for any malt. Raw grains are a different story. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 07:16:44 -0400 From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Re: Question About Hot Trub and pumps Chip says that the wort pumped out of his kettle and through his chiller has more trub than when he used to simply drain the wort through the chiller. The emerging wort eventually clears during the pumping but apparently not as fast as when he simply drained it. I don't understand why there would be any difference between pumping and draining the wort. The wort should be the same clarity unless it has been settling for different lengths of time before emptying the kettle. I recently made the same transition from draining the wort to pumping it out of the kettle. I used to drain the kettle after using an immersion chiller. The first wort contained trub, but this quickly cleared and I didn't worry about the small amount of trub that went into the fermentor. Now I recirculate the hot wort with a peristaltic pump through a counterflow chiller (without chilling) for a short time to get clear wort and then collect with chilling into the fermenter. Now I get LOTS of cold break in the fermenter that either did not form when using the immersion chiller or was left behind in the kettle. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 07:31:17 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Re: Temp of fermeting wort, low T mash Brewsters, SteveA provides ample evidence of the literature position that a LONG hold at low temperature is a bad thing. I never disagreed with that. All I said was I had never noticed a problem with a SHORT hold. In fact, a short hold at low T is a positive thing as it gives the chance for the malt to wet out, hydrate the enzymes ( remember they are high molecular weight molecules and require a finite time to hydrate) and do a predictable and complete job of mashing. What's long and short? If I remember correctly Kunze's examples ( and M&BS also, I think) were on the order of hours and, yes, I imagine these holds would have an adverse effect. What's my definition of short? 15 to 30 minutes. The mistake these authors all make is believing this effect is linear, which it is not. They believe that just because a long hold is negative on the desired outcome, a short one must be, but to a lesser extent. Not so. Short low T holds prepare the malt enzymes for mashing ( as indicated by the noted higher efficiencies). What I didn't provide in my comments is that I typically use an infusion method to move quickly from the low temperature hold and high solids mash at the beginning, unlike commercial breweries with their slow progression up the temperature scale. Steve also noted that a low temperature hold with raw grains is OK. I agree. I typically emulate pre-1990s malts ( when the Grermans moved to the kurz/hoch mash schedule from the more traditional schedules) for my old timey lagers using cooked barley as a part of the mash formulation. This definitely needs the low T mash program. My point was, don't be so enamoured with just adding more malt to overcome poor mashing performance, as you will miss out on additional flavors and mouthfeel, as poor mashing effficiency is an indication the enzymes ( and not just the sacchrification enzymes) are not doing their thing completely. I still believe it was CharlieP who first suggested this approach of adding more malt to make up for mashing inefficiencies ( as others also have), but I don't think it is useful to pursue this historical question. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 07:51:07 -0400 From: Kevin Elsken <littleboybrew at verizon.net> Subject: Location, location, location Per Jeff Renner's call for a roll call, the Little Boy Brewery has recently relocated to Upper Saint Clair, Pennsylvania, which shares Allegheny County with Pittsburgh and a few hundred other locales. I am a regular reader but an infrequent poster. I mostly make milds, bitters and stouts, with the occasional Belgian Wit or CAP. Regards to all, Kevin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 08:05:19 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Temperature bands Brewsters: Kevin Eggemeyer is using a PC to control his fridge temp and asks about time and temperature holds to keep from burning out his compressor. I believe a minimum of 5 minutes between stop an start is OK for the fridge and if you are using temperature a 2- 4 degree F bandwidth is typical for the sensor being in the air of the fridge and 1-2 degrees F for when you have it submerged in the wort. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 08:20:20 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: gornicwm at earthlink.net Subject: Mash Thickness (Bill Gornicki) I did a short excerpt for my club's education corner about mash viscosity based on Dornbusch's model and it may be useful to some. Different mash viscosities favor different mash enzymes. Check out how I applied this model at the link below... http://www.feathercraft.net/CRAFT/Documents/Mash%20Technique2.doc Bill Gornicki CRAFT Homebrew Club Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 11:19:11 -0500 From: Michael <grice at binc.net> Subject: Overnight mashing Sven Pfitt asks: > More to the point, what do you find detremental in overnight mashes? Or is > it just a matter of inconvienence? [Massive deletions...] When you mash overnight, the enzymes are still active in the mash (obviously). This may result in a thinner beer. Also, mash temps aren't necessarily high enough to pasteurize the wort. As a result, you may see enough bacterial growth to introduce off flavors. My overnight "mashing" procedure is somewhat different. I actually complete the mash and heat the collected wort to at least 200F. Usually I turn it off when I notice that it's begun to boil. Then I cover it and leave it until the next day. By heating the wort to boiling or nearly boiling, I've pasteurized the wort and denatured all the enzymes. The composition of sugars should remain the same, and bacteria or wild yeast don't have the time to gain a foothold in the wort before I begin boiling it the next day. I haven't added any hops to the wort yet, so bitterness and hop flavor would obviously not be affected. The disadvantages are obviously that the whole process takes somewhat longer. Potentially, it might also result in more carmelization and darkening of the wort. Frankly, this wouldn't concern me unless I was making a very pale lager. For what it's worth, the only beers I've had problems with lately have been those I've mashed and boiled in the same day. Michael Middleton WI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 11:29:17 -0500 From: "Smith, Brian (Inland-Gaylord)" <BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com> Subject: First All Grain.... Well lister, I finally did it, I have ventured into the realm of the All-Grainer. Here's a report of how it went. (purist and hard core a/g'ers may wish to skip down now)... Started with 6 lbs of 2 row and 1 lbs of crystal malt. (figured I start with a light bodied beer for my first try) Did a single step mash with 2 gal of water in a 5 gal SS pot. Mashed for 2 hrs at 150-155 F. Monitored temp every 15 min with digital therm. Added heat when it needed it. (this portion was done on the kitchen stove). Put my sparge water on my outdoor burner. I used a "zap-a-pap" lauder turn used per instruction in NCJHB. Sparged with 170-180F water...temp kept dropping to the mashing range. Run-off collected in my 10 gal brewing kettle. (ended up with about 5.5 gals of wort, added water to get 7 gals) Run off was not as clear as I would have hoped, but neither are my partial mash batches. Brought to boil, added 1 oz of 15.5 Nugget hop pellets, boiled for 1 hr, added 1oz of cascade pellets for 15 min, added approx 2 oz of whole cascade from my bines, shut of heat and covered pot. Cooled wort with immersion chiller to 90F. Transferred to primary. Aerated wort via SS airstone with my 6 hp Craftsman air compressor (figured why buy a aquarium pump when I have this). Air was filtered through inline HEPA filter. Initial gravity of wort was .025, I added approx 1 lb of liquid malt extract just for good measure. Pitched with a tube of California Ale yeast, had good Kreusen at 6:00 am the next morning. Was finished cleaning up at 6:00pm had started about 12:30pm. With all this effort, I sure hope it taste OK. When I was finished I noticed my whole hops still had the lupin glands intact so I collected these and boiled them on my kitchen stove to make a hop tea. I put the tea in a container and froze it. If I need extra hop flavor, I'll drop the hop ice block in. Brian Smith Inland Paperboard and Packaging Bogalusa Mill ********** Confidentiality Notice ********** This electronic transmission and any attached documents or other writings are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged, confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure under applicable law. If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading, dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission, including all attachments from your system. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 12:16:02 -0700 From: Mark Beck <beckmk at whitman.edu> Subject: Safale attenuation I said I'd get back to the group what I learned about the attenuation of Safale S04. The answer I received is: >Fermentis posts attenuation for the S04 at 79%. >Enjoy! >Also, we now have in stock their new US 56 product. Great Stuff! >Crosby & Baker Ltd >Seth Schneider > > > > Could you tell me what the apparent attenuation of Safale S-04 yeast is? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mark > > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:05:30 -0400 From: BJCP Communication Director <communication_director at hbd.org> Subject: Voter apathy? For those who are current BJCP judges in the Northeast region, please do us two favors. First, cast your vote for regional rep on the BJCP board of directors if you haven't done so already. Second, remind your friends to do the same. You must know some judges who don't subscribe to this publication. With three weeks left, the voter turnout is about 23%. Voting is simple and fast: 1. Have your BJCP number and password ready. If you've lost your password, send an email to it_director at bjcp.org and ask for it to be emailed to you. 2. Go to <http://www.bjcp.org/nevoting.html> 3. Read the candidate statements and click the button to go to the online voting booth. In the name of good government, we thank you. Ed Westemeier BJCP Communication Director Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 17:39:43 -0400 From: "Dave Humes" <dhumes001 at comcast.net> Subject: Controlling temperature of fermeting wort Dave Burley is correct that controlling the temperature of the wort, rather than the ambient temperature, is the key to maintaining accurate, predictable, and stable fermentation temperatures. Ideally, this is done exactly as he describes, by inserting the temperature probe directly into the fermenting wort. But, this also has obvious sanitation issues. One option is to use a two-hole stopper with a thermowell. BB&B sells just such a combination at http://www.morebeer.com/index.html?page=detail.php3&pid=FE612. This should work very well. Just make certain that your temperature probe will fit in the well. Another alternative that I have used for a few years now is to attach the temperature probe to the side of the carboy and then wrap insulation around the carboy. I just take a 6" square of 2" rubber foam insulation and tie it around the carboy at the top and bottom of the square and position the probe in the middle. I've checked the temperature of the probe against the fermenting wort and with surface mount thermometers on the carboys, and all stay within a degree. Make sure you set the deadband on your controller to 1 degree. The thermal mass of the wort will prevent excessive cycling and you'll be able to maintain your desired temperature to within a degree. But, be sure to either turn off your fridge, push up the setpoint, etc. if you just have the probe hanging open in the fridge. Otherwise, with the deadband set to 1 degree, excessive cycling of the compressor will occur and lead to premature failure. - --Dave Humes Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 14:47:27 -0700 From: Steve Funk <steve at hheco.com> Subject: RE: question about hot trub and pumps Chip Tate, I assume from Waco, asks about problems with trub and recirculating hot wort with his pump. I used to whirlpool and siphon before switching to a pump. I brew in a converted Sanke with a false bottom and use whole hops. What I do to avoid resuspending the break material is first let the wort settle in the kettle for 15 minutes or so after the boil while I start cleaning up. I then recirculate several liters of wort manually using gravity and a saucepan taking care to gently decant the wort without disturbing the hop filter bed or introducing aeration. This will set your hop filter bed and you'll be all set to pump wort through your chiller. Cheers, - -- Steve Funk Brewing in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge Stevenson, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 18:26:12 -0400 From: John Mitchell <johnlmitchell at earthlink.net> Subject: Buna-N o-rings Buna-N (nitrile rubber) o-rings are widely available for good prices on ebay. Is this an acceptable substitute for silicone rubber for constructing bulkhead assemblies in hot liquor or boiling pots? My references indicate this material is acceptable for high temperatures, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experience with using these. John Mitchell Suffolk, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:51:13 -0600 From: "Dave Draper" <david at draper.name> Subject: Fat Tire in LA area? Dear Friends, A good pal of mine from my days at Johnson Space Center is one of the lead scientists on the current Mars rover missions being run out of Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena, CA. When I saw him a couple weeks ago he was bemoaning his inability to find anyplace to buy his favorite beer, New Belgium's Fat Tire amber ale. He said he'd tried all the local groceries and Trader Joe's didn't even have it. This struck me as impossible. So I turn to Los Angeles area HBDers for help. Please email me privately at the address in my .sig below if you know where my friend can buy himself his Fat Tire within a reasonable distance (I'm sure he'd drive at least half an hour if need be) of the JPL area. Many thanks, Dave in ABQ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- David S. Draper, Institute of Meteoritics, Univ New Mexico David at Draper dot Name Beer page: http://www.unm.edu/~draper/beer.html That's all very well in practice; but will it work in *theory*? ---Ken Willing Return to table of contents
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