HOMEBREW Digest #4563 Wed 21 July 2004

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  Dry hopping & adding berries in style ("Gary Smith")
  Scott ("Jim Bermingham")
  RE: Yeast Starter Questions; RE: Hello; Walk in Cooler finished (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 23:14:24 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at ameritech.net> Subject: Dry hopping & adding berries in style In the vastness of what I don't know bout brewing there's a couple of gravity wells I keep running into. One particular lack of knowledge deals with dry hopping & another deals with adding berries. I brew, & use both a SABCO fermenter & a conical for primary & secondary fermentation. I use Cornie kegs for the final & tap from there. When it comes to adding the dry hops I'm unsure what sterile precautions needs to be taken. I don't want to contaminate the batch. Also, the particles of hops will plug the valve above the dip tube in the corny. Seems like I need to put the hops in a bag but if I do that, how do I avoid infection? As to the berries (like Raspberry), How do I add these during the final fermentation without the seeds plugging up those poppet valves? Again, something like a woman's hose might be the answer but how about the bacteria buggers? I want to make a nice Raspberry/wheat beer but really don't want to blow it cause of the raspberry. Rather than my postulating what I think would work best & having this brewing microcosm know what a sot I am, I'd appreciate hearing what works from those that do it. Thanks, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:39:44 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) From: "Jim Bermingham" <bermingham at antennaproducts.com> Subject: Scott Welcome back Scott. Are you still brewing in plaid? Jim Bermingham Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:22:32 -0400 From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: RE: Yeast Starter Questions; RE: Hello; Walk in Cooler finished Traffic is light and I feel somewhat verbose at the moment, so I'll take up a bit of bandwidth: John, I wouldn't exactly call complete fermentation of starters a 'death' phase. Yeast will grow proportionally more cells at a lower gravity. Making a 1 pt 1.020 starter, then when finished adding another pint of 1.020 wort will grow more yeast cells than if you were to use 1 pt of 1.040 wort all at once. Using a stir plate will greatly increase this growth - they say 6-10x more cells because of the continuous aeration. I use a 2L erlenmeyer flask on a stir plate with filter paper rubber-banded over the top to allow gaseous exchange without allowing microorganisms in. I'll start with 1 pt 1.020 (usually ferments out in a day or so), add another pint a few days later, then another. I'll refrigerate it the night before brew day, then in the morning I'll bring it out and let it come to room temp. While my wort is chilling, I decant the liquid from the starter, then the first liter of wort goes into the starter to 'reactivate' it. A few hours later it is at high krausen and I'll pitch it. I think this way I get the best of both worlds - lots of yeast at their most active state. - ------------------------------- Congratulations, Skotrat! You've taken the first step by admitting your condition! ;^) If I remember right you are in or near Exeter, which is at 42.9759 N Latitude, 70.94884 West Longitude. This tanslates to [655.1 mi, 81.5 deg] AR. - -------------------------------- I finished my Walk-in cooler last night! Yaaay! I didn't have a lot of space availble, and wanted to build it efficient, yet make it somewhat portable by being able to disassemble and transport it, so it is 4' deep by 8' wide by 6' high. I built panels about 2 3/8" thick of 2" extruded polystyrene insulation board with a pine frame made from 2x3s planed down to 1 1/4 x 2 1/8. Both faces were covered with 1/8" tileboard using foamboard adhesive. I used 1 1/2" wide foam camper tape and screwed the panels together with 4" deck screws and finish washers. The door edges were beveled at about 15 degrees and again I used foam camper tape covered with metallic tape as the door seal. The bottom panel had thicker frame members and no bottom covering, with 3/4" melamine on the inner side. I had an old 11K BTU window AC unit given to me, and installed it in the back wall. There is an internal adjustment screw on the controller, but I could not get it adjusted right to achieve a 48 degree temp, which is what I was looking for. I could get it down to about 55F, but the slightest bit of adjustment down would cause the AC unit to run continuously, dropping the temp at one point to 20F, but freezing up the coils of the AC unit. So I broke down and bought a Johnson controller, and last night I installed it. This morning the temp in the cooler was 48F! I will have space for about 10-12 cornies for cold storage & serving, installed my 12.2 gallon SS conical for lager fermentations, two large grain bins to hold about 6 bags of grain, plus space for specialty grain storage and several cases of bottles. I haven't tallied up the total cost yet, but I'd estimate it to be around $500-$550 - certainly much less than anything I could have bought. It would have been a bit less had I built it in rather than made it modular, but it is worth it to me to be able to take it with me if I ever move. Nuff rambling for now, Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN State of Franklin Homebrewers (http://hbd.org/franklin) [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] AR Return to table of contents
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